Planting grape seedlings in autumn: planting technology, shelter

Planting grape seedlings in autumn

I will tell you how to plant grape seedlings in the fall in this article. The grape has its own long history and legend. It is believed that it was this berry crop that prompted people to settle down into a sedentary way of life. The vine must be cared for, then harvested and processed into purple wine, thick as blood. You can’t leave here, you can’t leave, you have to live nearby. So the ancient grape became a human companion. Remember, the first people on earth ate it: Adam and Eve.

Summer residents and land owners have long been attached to grapes. It is cultivated everywhere: in Crimea, the Urals, central Russia, and Ukraine. The results exceed expectations, new frost-resistant varieties have been developed, and more and more people are cultivating it.

Features of planting in different regions

Planting in each region should be carried out taking into account climatic conditions.

Siberia, Ural, Leningrad region

In these regions, quite severe frosts are observed in winter, so winegrowers face great difficulties. Just a couple of decades ago, growing grapes in Siberia, as well as planting them in the Urals, seemed impossible. Thanks to the efforts of domestic breeders, frost-resistant varieties have been developed and zoned in these regions.

When planting grape bushes in the above regions, the following rules must be observed:

you need to purchase and cultivate only early varieties intended for a given region, for example, “Thumbelina”, “Buratino”, “Sibirskaya Cheryomushka”;
when grown in the first year after planting and in subsequent seasons, the bushes must be covered for the winter;
It is advisable to plant in the spring, since the autumn procedure greatly increases the risk of seedlings freezing.

The distance between grape bushes during planting is maintained the same as in other areas.

Moscow region, Central Russia

Planting grapes from cuttings or seedlings in these areas is carried out quite often. The climate in these regions cannot be called mild, so you should cultivate frost-resistant varieties that do not require careful care.

It is recommended to grow early ripening varieties that provide the recommended planting density.

When is it better to plant grapes in spring or autumn?

Experts do not have a consensus on this matter: some prefer spring, others prefer autumn. In both cases, a good result is achieved, but here the cold and frost are approaching, there is a risk, you need to be careful, know and take into account the peculiarities. There are few of them, but they are decisive, otherwise the vine will not survive and will die.

It is necessary to properly prepare the seedlings, the planting hole, and plant the grapes themselves without errors. Definitely: it’s more difficult in the fall. Adherents of autumn planting convince: it’s okay and note some advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of planting in autumn

Planting grapes in the autumn has a number of advantages and disadvantages. The positive aspects include:

opportunity to buy quality seedlings;
a wide variety of varieties;
autumn planting allows you to reduce the frequency of watering;
seedlings take root more easily due to the small difference between night and day temperatures.

It is believed that a bush planted in the autumn takes root better and is more hardy than one planted in the spring.

The disadvantages of planting in a permanent place before winter include:

in early winter, the seedling may not have time to take root and will freeze;
a sharp cold snap can have a negative impact on the vine and destroy it.

There are no other negative aspects to autumn planting.

Advantages of autumn planting

In autumn, the root system of the seedling is already strong and sufficiently developed. It takes root quickly, adapts, and tolerates winter well even in severe frosts.
When spring comes, the seedling will have already gone through the initial period of development. It immediately begins to grow and get stronger, which means it is healthy and not susceptible to diseases and pests.
In autumn, the soil is moistened; watering, so necessary in spring and summer, is not required.

Disadvantages of autumn planting

There is only one: the possibility of losing a seedling during frost, but with proper planting and wrapping, such a nuisance simply will not happen.

Important! The plant requires protection from frost. Most varieties die at relatively low sub-zero temperatures (6-8 degrees). Choose frost-resistant varieties that have a low temperature tolerance of 12-13 degrees below zero. The seedling must be wrapped, sprinkled with mulch and leaves so that it can overwinter comfortably and successfully.

Grapes are selected taking into account the following criteria:

high productivity;
frost resistance;
immunity to diseases and pests;
resistance of berries to cracking.

The variety meets all these requirements: you are on the right track. Select large-berry table varieties that are suitable in terms of ripening time for a specific area. And if the vine requires minimal care, then this is generally wonderful, because in addition to working on the site, there are many more important and useful things in the life of every person. And it’s better not to turn outdoor work into a grueling chore.

Experienced winegrowers also pay attention to such characteristics as taste, seed, aroma, and skin thickness. It is important how the wasp variety is perceived. That means they eat poorly. If you decide to make wine, look for a sweet variety to use little sugar. All comes with experience. The main thing is to start, and then observe and draw conclusions.

You also need to know what types of grapes exist according to their ripening periods.

Installation of supports

The choice of support type is extremely important for grapes. This is due to the fact that all the compounds that make up the bush are produced due to the good illumination of the leaves by the sun. Therefore, if the wrong type of support is chosen, then not only will there not be abundant fruiting, but the bush itself may die.

The design may be different, you need to choose a specific one taking into account the following factors:

planting scheme;
plant variety;
bush formation method.

Experienced winegrowers begin arranging a vineyard with the installation of a stationary structure. This approach will allow you to harvest the first harvest already 3 years after planting the seedlings. The use of temporary supports, based on observations, does not bring such a result. But, if there is no other way out, you can use this option. Temporary supports are organized as follows:

The stakes are driven in next to the seedlings.
Wire or synthetic ropes are stretched between the posts - along them the plant will curl upward.

On a note!
Instead of wire or rope, you can use nylon thread cords or another option. The main thing is that the material is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes and is durable.

There are several types of grape supports. Trellis, pergolas, canopies, arches, trellises, stands, trellises are made for the plant. All these types can be combined. It is worth choosing a specific type of stationary structure taking into account exactly what results you want to achieve.

Types of grapes by ripening time

Early. Ripens in 100 days. They are grown in the northern regions, since summers are short and frosts occur quite quickly.
Average. The varieties are universal for temperate climates.
Late. The prerogative of the southern regions, where there is a lot of sun and practically no frost.

Logic dictates: late varieties are inappropriate in cold areas with a harsh climate, and early varieties are inappropriate in warm ones.

Each plant develops well only in its own region.

Grapes are further divided into two categories:

table varieties;
technical.

Table varieties, of course, for table decoration and fresh food. The berries are large, beautifully shaped, juicy.

Technical ones - with small, inconspicuous berries, slightly sour, and a surprisingly delicate aroma. Their productivity is high, and later they are used for processing. Having stocked up on knowledge, now you can go shopping.

Choosing a landing site

The area should be sunny, bright, well lit. The south and southeast sides are suitable so that the sun warms up as many hours a day as possible. It’s good when the landing takes place on a hill. In lowlands there is a risk of flooding. Grapes do not like high moisture.

Plant the plant near a fence or the wall of a building, you can’t go wrong either. The vine will be comfortable, warm, and the wall will protect it from strong winds. The vine will decorate the gazebo, veranda, climb to the second floor balcony, shade the window, and prevent the bright sun from ruling the room.

Do you intend to plant a lot of grapes, a whole plantation? Place the seedlings from north to south, the distance between them is 2 - 3 meters, between the rows 2.5 - 3 m. The vine grows quickly, it needs space.

Remember: the plant is a perennial, it needs a lot of space for growth, development and care. Ideal - high, sunny, moderately dry.

Our main task is to ensure that the seedling takes root and begins to bear fruit as soon as possible. Grapes love the sun, black soils and light soils, but really do not like saline impurities. Don't forget about groundwater. If they rise higher than 1.5 meters, then drainage is required.

Preparing the landing hole

The root system of grapes is powerful. Its main part is located in the top layer of fertile soil, at a depth of half a meter. Therefore, it is very important to prepare the hole for planting correctly and in a timely manner. Please note:

pit dimensions;
when is the best time to prepare a hole for planting seedlings in the ground;
drainage.

The width should be 80 by 80 cm, depth 80-90 cm. If planting is done in rows, then the width is increased to a meter.

It is recommended to prepare the hole at least two weeks in advance, so that the soil can stand and shrink. Best in a month or a month and a half. If it didn’t work out, you didn’t have time, you didn’t think it through in advance, then it’s okay, during the planting process you will trample down the soil especially carefully.

First, drainage is prepared. Approximately 5-7 cm of crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the hole; a layer of roofing material or thick paper can be placed on top. A drainage pipe is installed at the edge of the hole. Through it, the bushes are subsequently watered and fertilized.

Filling the hole

So, the hole for the seedling is prepared in advance. It's better to take care of this at the end of summer. A nutrient layer approximately 25 cm thick is placed at the bottom.

Nutrient layer for grape seedlings. Compound:

manure;
Earth;
sand;
humus;
wood ash;
fertilizers

We will need several buckets of manure, several buckets of fertile soil with humus, some sand, wood ash (one or two liter jars). Ash is a must for the simple reason that it contains a large amount of potassium and various trace elements. All this is mixed well, compacted and watered. Wait for the water to seep into the soil.

Fertilizers are poured on top: 0.5 kg of superphosphate, 300 grams of potassium fertilizers, mixed with good soil and the hole is compacted again. Nitrogen is not needed, we have already added humus. Eggshells are welcome as they contain a lot of calcium.

Next, fill the hole with fertile soil without any additives. They dug a hole, filled it with everything necessary and forgot about it. They remember her after 1.5-2 months in the first ten days of October. This is how soil is prepared on chernozem and clay. On sandstone the process occurs somewhat differently.

Care after landing

High-quality care of grapes in the fall consists of several tricks:

There is no need to fertilize, feed, or trim the bushes before winter. All processing remains for the spring period.
Provide grape cuttings with plenty of water. One bush will need 20 liters of water daily.
Before watering, loosen the soil under the seedlings.
Before frost, cover the soil under the bushes with sawdust and pine needles.
You can cover the bushes for the winter with polyethylene on top. But be sure to leave holes for air to pass through.

On a note! Before planting grape seedlings in the ground, disinfect the roots of the plant. Dip them in potassium permanganate, then soak them for a day in a stimulating solution for root formation, for example, Zircon.

Sandy soil for planting

It has its own characteristics and nuances. Sandstone differs from chernozem and clay in that it freezes strongly; in summer, on the contrary, it warms up excessively. In addition, the moisture leaves as if through a sieve, without stopping. Nutrients are washed out along with the water.

The hole should be dug deeper, about 10 cm or wider. The more spacious the hole, the better for the roots. They will feel comfortable and grow quickly. At the bottom of the dug hole, a “castle” of clay about 15 cm thick is laid, sometimes roofing material is placed. The shape of the “lock” resembles a saucer, through which it is not so easy for moisture to break through and go into the kidney.

Next, mix the fertilizers with the nutrient layer. Here, without any adjustments, it’s the same with black soil. Potassium fertilizers must contain magnesium (potassium magnesium).

Important! Water especially carefully and use a lot of water. Pour in several buckets of water. The interval between waterings is a week. At least three times.

Preparation

A key factor in choosing a planting location is the need to provide the berry bushes with sufficient light and nutrients. It is advisable to locate the vineyard in the sunny southern part of the site, where there are no gusty winds and shading by tall plants.

Seedlings are placed at a distance of 300 cm from garden trees and 200 cm from shrubs. This will protect the crop from the winds. If the area is partially shaded, then it is advisable to give preference to early ripening varieties, but in this case the timing of harvest ripening is slightly shifted.

The soil can be represented by sandy loam, loam and chernozem, but the best option would be mixed neutral and alkaline soils, consisting of not too large stones, sand and clay, as well as organic components. If necessary, deoxidation is carried out with lime or dolomite flour.

Preparing a grape seedling for planting

Our pit lasted its intended time. We choose a fine clear day, preferably the first ten days of October, and begin planting:

soak the seedling;
preparing the “chatterbox”;
trim the roots, remove the top and side roots;
cut off the eyes of the seedling, leaving 1-2.

2-3 days before the due date, the roots of the seedling are dipped in water so that they become saturated with it. You can prepare a “chatter”, that is, dilute clay and mullein in liquid and let it stand. There is no need to use growth stimulants. If you want, you can additionally let it stand for a little while in the heteroauxin solution.

On the day of planting, the roots are slightly trimmed with pruning shears. It is enough to remove 1-2 cm, no more, otherwise you can damage the root system. Already in the spring, additional roots will begin to grow and develop from them.

This must be done, as it provides an additional start for the development of the plant. The top and side roots are removed completely. The seedling itself is cut to 1-2 eyes.

Preparation of seedlings

Proper pruning of grape seedlings
How quickly the grapes take root in the fall depends on the quality of the planting material. Choose a grape shoot for planting according to the following rules:

Check that the stem of the annual plant is free of mechanical damage, growths, and mold.
The ideal length of a seedling is 40-55 cm, thickness is 8-10 mm, green shoots should be 15-20 cm.
High-quality planting material has pronounced growth buds, 4-6 strong roots at least 15 cm long.
The cut at the top of the shoot should be light green. This indicates the healthy condition of the planting material.

Before planting, seedlings must be prepared:

Trim the lower part of the main roots by 2 cm. If the root system has grown, it is trimmed to 15 cm. Too long roots bend during planting, and the rooting process of the plant slows down.
Pour the roots of grape sprouts with warm water (20-24°C) for a day. For better plant survival, add the biostimulator Kornevin (5 g per 5 liters of water).
Prepare a clay mash. Fill a third of the bucket with clay, add water so that the liquid barely covers it. Leave the solution for 24 hours to completely soak the clay. Add the same amount of humus and stir until smooth. Leave for another 4 hours.
Half an hour before planting, remove the seedlings from the water, dip them in a clay mash and let them dry (at least 30 minutes).

Planting seedlings

Planting grapes is a labor-intensive process, although in principle there is nothing complicated about it. There are two factors to consider:

Firstly, the procedure itself is step-by-step. It consists of preparing the planting hole and planting the seedling itself.
Secondly, abundant watering is necessary. It would be useful to pour in up to 30 liters of water, the moisture should remain for a long time, the roots should winter comfortably, and not feel a lack of moisture.

So, we already have a hole prepared 1.5 -2 months ago. She “sat down”, the air was distributed evenly, filling the voids. A layer of fertile soil formed a buffer cushion between the roots and fertilizers.

We place the seedling itself in the hole, carefully straighten the roots along the entire perimeter of the planting hole. The “heel” of the seedling is seated at a depth of 40-50 cm so that the upper eye goes 10-15 cm into the bud. It can be tilted from north to south.

We fill the plant halfway with good fertile soil, compact it, and fill a bucket of water. After the water has been absorbed, fill the hole completely. There is no need to compact anymore.

Step-by-step instructions for planting grapes in spring and autumn

The technology of planting grape seedlings requires taking into account certain nuances and following step-by-step instructions. At first glance, the rules of procedure may confuse you with their complexity and multi-step nature, but in practice everything turns out to be much simpler. But, the main thing is to follow the instructions and procedure for performing the procedure in spring and autumn. Next, you can study the necessary information and try it in practice.

Choosing a suitable location

Before starting the event, you need to choose a suitable place in the garden to plant grapes. The success of crop cultivation and productivity depend on this. Therefore, when choosing a location, you should pay attention to the following nuances and conditions:

Cultivation on swampy soil and in lowlands is prohibited.
Should not be planted on the north side of the site.
A place blown by strong winds and drafts is unacceptable, especially if the wind is from the north.

The most ideal option is a place in the garden on the south side, which is fenced with a wall or dense hedge.

You should not choose shaded areas, for example, if you are too close to trees, buildings, or fences.
You should not choose a place near fruit crops. When planting, the distance between grapes and fruit crops must be at least four meters!
A very important criterion when choosing a location is the soil. The soil must be fertile, loose, and have good moisture and breathability properties. But don’t be upset if there is no such land on your site, because you can prepare the soil for planting and create normal conditions for the seedling. If the soil is sandy or rocky, then humus should be added to the planting hole, and if the soil is peaty or clayey, then a drainage layer (for example, crushed stone, expanded clay) should be added to the bottom of the hole.

Preparing the planting hole

Preparation of the pit for planting grapes begins two to three weeks before the event. If you carry out the procedure without preliminary preparation, the soil will settle and become compacted over time, causing the bush to be below the required level.

To properly prepare a hole for planting grapes, you should proceed according to the following scheme:

First of all, you need to dig a square hole: its depth and width should be approximately 80 centimeters.
Divide the excavated soil into two parts: one part should consist of the top layer of soil, and the second should consist of the remaining excavated soil.
A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pit (crushed stone or gravel can be used).
Then you should prepare a filling for the pit from fertilizers: the soil from the top layer is mixed with two buckets of humus, with 500 grams of superphosphate and a kilogram of wood ash.
The next step in preparing the soil is to place the dressing in the hole. Sprinkle a small layer of fertile soil on top of the fertilizer so that the roots of the plant do not get burned. There should be a distance of about 50 centimeters between the fertilizer and the surface of the earth.
Generously water the hole (if the soil settles strongly, you can fill the soil up to the previous level).
Let the pit sit like this for about two weeks. During this time it will settle.

Smart pit: what is it and is it necessary to do it?

Some summer residents make a smart hole before planting grape seedlings. What does it mean? A smart pit implies the presence of a drainage layer and the presence of rough for deep watering.

To create a hole for planting with a pipe, you need to add fertilizer to the hole as described above, and pour a drainage layer about 10 centimeters thick on top (you can use expanded clay, gravel, crushed stone). After this, you should install a pipe for irrigation. Most often, an asbestos-cement pipe is used for these purposes, but other materials can also be used, the main thing is that its diameter is 10-15 centimeters. Select the length of the pipe so that it protrudes ten centimeters above the ground surface. Place it at the edge of the hole. It is recommended to cover the end of the pipe with a lid so that it does not become clogged and does not serve as a trap for all kinds of living creatures.

Although this technology has its fans, its concept is often criticized. According to experienced gardeners, this method of planting grapes has undeniable disadvantages: the drainage layer and pipe will prevent the growth of roots, and watering through a pipe is often troublesome, and creating a smart hole requires unreasonable effort and time.

Video: features of an irrigation pipe.

Seedling preparation

Before you begin preparing a grape seedling in spring and autumn, you need to carefully examine it. If you find any mechanical damage, mold, or lesions, then, alas, such a specimen will not be suitable for rooting.

You can prepare a grape seedling for planting in spring and autumn according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to boil the water and cool it. Place the seedling in cool liquid for about a day. If desired, you can use a drug that stimulates root growth for soaking (for example, soak the roots in a solution of the drug “Kornevin”).
After you remove the seedling from the water, check the roots to see if they are damaged.
It is necessary to remove the roots in the upper part of the seedling, and cut the roots located below by two centimeters.
Then you should trim the shoot a little (leave three or four eyes on it from the base of the shoot).
Treat the seedling with medications to prevent diseases and pests.

Direct planting of grapes

Planting grapes is carried out according to this scheme:

Choose a suitable location, prepare the planting hole and seedlings according to the instructions in the steps above.
Place a small pile of soil from the top fertile layer of soil at the bottom.
Carefully place the seedling over this pile and straighten the roots. They should be evenly spaced at the bottom of the pit.
Then you should carefully fill the hole with soil.
After this, water the planting site with three buckets of water, and if you have planted several bushes, then watering must be carried out under each bush.
After watering, cover the seedling with a plastic bottle (cut off the bottom first). The bottle should be slightly deeper into the ground.

By following these simple step-by-step instructions for properly planting grapes in autumn and spring, you can successfully root a plant that will give you delicious berries in the future. Even a novice gardener can cope with planting grape seedlings on his plot.

The recommended distance between seedlings when planting is about one or one and a half meters in a row. If you plan to plant a lot of seedlings, then it is wise to plant future bushes in a trench. Trenching technique requires preparing the trench in the same way as in the case of preparing a conventional pit.

Video: features of the trench method.

Planting grapes in wells

Grapes are also planted in wells made with a drill or crowbar. Their depth is 60-65 cm. The seedling is lowered to the bottom of the hole, then raised slightly so that the roots take the correct position and straighten. They should lie slightly at an angle, about 45 degrees.

If this is not taken into account, the roots will become deformed and die, and new ones will not grow immediately. A seedling that has not received nutrition slows down in growth. The well is filled in, compacted, and a mound is placed on top. This method is used to save land on the site.

Important! Don't ignore watering. In autumn, heavy rains make the ground wet, so many people think: it’s wet, why pour water? This opinion is wrong. Good watering compacts the soil, removes air tunnels, ensuring dense and direct contact of the roots with the ground.

The seedling is planted. Don't forget to stick a peg nearby. In the spring it will be a reference point. A plant covered with soil, straw, or leaves may be difficult to find.

Advice from professionals

Many years of experience of winegrowers will tell you how to plant grape seedlings in the fall and what nuances you should pay attention to.

Adviсe:

When planting, you need to focus on the bud from which the vine grows. It is she who should be underground.
In regions with long frosty winters, where the soil warms up slowly, grape seedlings should not be buried too deep. In such cases, planting holes are made no deeper than 40 centimeters.
It is important to open the grape bush in time in the spring, before it mates under the thickness of the covering layer. You need to open the grapes gradually, first exposing the place at the base of the bush, and then only freeing all other parts of the bush.
When the first, even minor frosts occur, cuttings planted in the fall may die. Therefore, it is recommended to cover them with a thick layer of sawdust or straw.
It is worth paying close attention to ensure that the grape bush does not enter the vegetative stage in winter. If leaves begin to appear on it, you should stop all watering and spray the plant with a potassium solution.

Planting seedlings with a closed root system

What is a seedling with a closed root system? These are seedlings grown in closed containers (pots, containers, bags). This technique is usually preferred by nurseries. The length of the roots here is limited by the volume of the container. The point of this method is to ensure safety during transportation.

Such seedlings, transplanted into open ground, quickly take root and rarely get sick. They can be planted almost the whole summer, not only in spring and autumn.

It happens that the seedling is overexposed. The roots have grown, there is not enough space for further growth. The vegetative mass does not receive the required amount of nutrients, and the plant stops developing. Such a seedling does not take root well and gets sick.

Plants in containers require special care; soil should not be allowed to fall from the roots. The air temperature should not fall below 12 degrees Celsius at night.

In grapes with a closed root system, the “heel” is not visible, so it is placed in the center of a clod of earth.

The depth of the hole depends on the characteristics of the soil. On heavy soils - 30 cm, on light, sandy and other soils - 20 cm. The plant is placed in the holes at an angle, with the shoot upward relative to the base and dug in.

What to do if planting deadlines are missed

If cold weather has set in and you haven’t had time to plant grapes, there are ways to preserve them until spring:

in boxes - the cuttings are placed in layers, with sand or sawdust sprinkled between each one. To ensure waterproofing, the boxes are insulated with paper or film. The main thing is to prevent rotting;

fabric - saturate the material with a solution of vitriol - 3% - this will prevent fungi from growing inside it. The fabric perfectly allows air to pass through and will not allow waterlogging;
sand - the crop is planted in pots filled with sand;

moss - has natural disinfectant properties and does not rot. An alternative is peat, which is easier to find in large quantities.

Protecting seedlings from cold

It is believed that a sharp, unexpected drop in temperature can destroy even the most unpretentious and frost-resistant variety. Its gradual decrease will only harden the seedling, it will endure the winter more easily and will quickly begin to grow in the spring.

The main task was completed, but this is only half the battle. One of the features of planting grape seedlings in the fall is their protection from future frosts. So how to protect a young, not yet mature plant:

using improvised means (tarpaulin, roofing felt, plastic bottle);
earth, fallen leaf, straw;
agrofibre.

The simplest and most common option: cut a plastic bottle and cover the seedling with it. They also use tarpaulin, roofing felt, branches, and fallen leaves. A layer of earth is poured on top (slide).

You may not care about covering the plant; perhaps the winter will be mild, and everything will be fine. Whether it's worth the risk is up to you to decide. If you want to achieve 100% results, consider protecting young bushes that have not gained enough wood. Among the already known ones, a new reliable covering agent is distinguished.

Agrofibre

The modern market offers a well-proven covering agent that is used to protect seedlings and young grape bushes. It is also called spunbond.

It is a synthetic polypropylene material that resembles a thin, fibrous fabric. Agrofibre allows moisture to pass through and at the same time protects the soil from ultraviolet rays and frost. Evaporation does not accumulate under it, which leads to plant rotting. With careful use, agrofibre will last 3-4 seasons.

The seedling is wrapped in agrofibre. This method is good when the seedling is planted alone. There is another way. The seedling is bent to the ground, under no circumstances laying it tightly; rotting or mold may appear.

It is better to leave a gap of a few centimeters. You can lay slats 5-10 cm thick. The top of the vine is pressed to the ground using homemade iron hooks made of thick wire, then covered with newfangled material.

Attention! The basic principles of planting grapes in different areas are practically no different. In the Kuban, Stavropol region, Crimea and Ukraine, where the soils are good, chernozem, late varieties are preferred, but in the Urals, in central Russia, early varieties must be planted so that they have time to ripen. Where there is practically no heat and frost, you can plant grapes not only at the beginning of October, but also at the end of the month, the first days of November.

Planting step by step

Grapes are planted in open ground according to the usual instructions for all berry crops:

Selection of berry varieties. The preferences of the gardener and the climate of the region are taken into account.
Next, choose a landing site. The main criteria are the protection of young bushes from wind and winter cold.
Preparing the soil and digging a hole.
Immersion of seedlings in holes.
Further care of the plant and preparation for wintering.

Each point of the diagram requires a more detailed consideration, so use the step-by-step instructions and consult them during gardening work on planting grape bushes in a new place.

Choosing a grape variety

Choosing the right grape variety for the garden is not easy; there are too many of them. Therefore, take into account these criteria for a good berry:

High yield (at least 20 kg per bush).
Self-pollination.
Winter hardiness.
Large and tasty fruits. Small, sweet and sour berries are suitable for wine.

When choosing a grape variety, inexperienced summer residents can be guided by the preferences of their neighbors in the garden.

The following types of berry crops are most often planted in Russia:

Codrianka. These are a hybrid, a product of crossing the Marshall variety and Moldova. The berries are elongated, tight, purple or brown in color. The taste is soft, sweet, slightly sour. There are almost no seeds.
Kishmish. An impossible dream for many summer residents due to poor frost resistance. It can more often be found in gardens in Krasnodar, Rostov region, Stavropol, less often in Central Russia, in Samara. The berries are small, seedless, sweet and juicy.
Laura. The earliest ripening variety. The berries are large, of different shapes, sweet and sour taste.
Delight Nutmeg. Table grape type. It takes root well in the Moscow region, in the south. Easily grown by experienced winegrowers and novice gardeners. The berries ripen large and very sweet.
Isabel. This is a vigorous bush, unpretentious to temperature and care. Therefore, it reproduces well in the Siberian regions and northern Europe. Used for fresh juice, wine, desserts. This variety has a high yield, usually at least 15 kg per bush.
Beauty of the North (Olga). Siberian variety for the Far North, withstands frosts down to -26°C without shelter. The average weight of a bunch is 500 g.

Planting grapes for the first time is a responsible matter, so do not immediately start propagating whimsical varieties that are unsuitable for your region. Choose Isabella, Beauty of the North, Muscat.

Codrianca

Kishmish

Laura

Delight

Isabel

Beauty of the North

Choosing a landing site

Grapes grow well near the walls of a house, gazebo and fence. But the support for the vine should be located on the south or southwest side. There is more light here, the walls warm up during the day from the sun and give warmth to the leaves and stems at night. However, such a place is more suitable for winter-hardy varieties. And it is better not to plant grape varieties that are sensitive to frost in open ground in the Middle Zone and Siberia at all, or to choose an area for them that is closed from wind, snow and rain, for example, a greenhouse.

In addition, special attention should be paid to the soil on which the grapes will grow. Loose, nutritious soil is considered comfortable and correct; black soil is ideal. Underground odes should lie deep - no closer than 1.5 m from the root system.

How to choose seedlings

Before purchasing grape seedlings for planting in the garden in the fall, it is important to understand that there are 2 types of material:

Chubuk is a young cutting from an adult bush; it is best to plant it in the spring.
A woody seedling is a one-year-old bush dug up for planting in the spring or fall. They are sold in pots with sand or soil.

Before winter, it is better to buy annual bushes. They take root better, get sick less, and begin to bear fruit faster. It is also worth paying attention to the following parameters of a healthy sprout:

Well developed roots. 5-6 shoots will be enough.
The trunk has green shoots 15-20 cm long.
The length of the seedling is about 0.5 m, the thickness of the stem is 1 cm.
All parts are smooth, without damage.

High-quality planting material is the key to rapid establishment of a plant in a new place, reproduction and active fruiting next year.

Landing

The process of planting grapes begins with preparing a hole or long trench. Make the holes step by step like this:

For each bush, dig a square hole, 80 cm deep.
Place drainage (small brick, crushed stone) at the bottom.
Fertilize the soil you dug out of the hole. Mix the soil with peat, humus, and wood ash in equal parts.
Place fertilized soil over the drainage. Throw a couple of shovels of ordinary soil on top so that the bushes do not get burned from the nutritional dressing.
Fill the hole with water (10-20 liters) so that the earth settles.

Leave the holes to infuse for 1-2 weeks. At the end of the period, you can begin directly planting grapes.

Take the seedling and carefully straighten the roots.
Place the bush in the middle of the hole.
Cover the root system with soil.
Water each seedling generously with warm water.
Cover the top with a plastic bottle, deepening it into the soil.
In the spring, when the berry takes root, it needs to be tied to an iron support.
Place the next seedling at a distance of 1-2 meters from the previous one.

Soil and fertilizers

Grape seedlings are fed at the time of transplantation. The soil mixed with peat, humus and ash is placed as a cushion under the root system. But such fertilizer must necessarily ferment. Therefore, the nutrient mixture is poured with water and allowed to brew. After planting, there is no need to additionally feed the grapes.

In subsequent years, you need to take care of the soil in the hole and at the site where new bushes are planted. Grapes love well-breathing soil mixed with small stones. The acidity level also matters; pH values of 4-8 are allowed.

Basic criteria for planting grape seedlings in autumn

Grapes are a heat-loving crop, they love the sun and light. The south and southeast side suits him.
The soil ranges from sandy to heavy, clayey. Peat bogs are also suitable only if the ridge planting method is used.
This berry crop can be planted both in spring and autumn. The advantage of autumn planting is that the seedling will get stronger before spring. The hole for the seedling is prepared in advance. The best time for autumn planting is the first ten days of October.
When planting a seedling with an open root system, trim the roots correctly and leave no more than one or two eyes on the shoot.
Watering is required. Don't look at the fact that it rains in the fall. It needs to be watered.
Protect seedlings from cold weather and use covering agents.

How to plant grapes with cuttings (chubuks) in the fall

In the southern regions, in the fall, summer residents plant grape cuttings harvested during the autumn pruning of the fruiting bush. Planting takes place in mid-October.

Note!

A separate bed is built for cuttings.

Strong annual fully ripened shoots with smooth, juicy wood with a diameter of 1-1.5 centimeters are suitable as chibouks. Each branch should have 3-4 buds. The cuttings are cleared of leaves and shoots, and the tendrils are trimmed.

Shallow longitudinal cuts are made in the lower part of the cuttings. These places are shed with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin).

The cuttings are planted in a long narrow trench 20 centimeters deep. The distance between the pipes is 15-20 centimeters. The soil for cuttings should be enriched with minerals. Loose, moist soil is supplied with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, as well as organic matter. The chibouks are placed in the pit at a slight angle, with the end pointing to the south. The cuttings are covered with earth, and the top of the bed is covered with film.

Cuttings grown in this way will have a well-developed root system by spring. With the arrival of constant warmth, they will be transplanted to a permanent place of residence. By next autumn, the cuttings will be a meter-long bush with two or three strong shoots.