Proper planting of cherry seedlings in autumn and spring


What time is spring planting done?

Until recently, it was believed that cherries were an exclusively southern tree, as they were not able to withstand the frosts characteristic of the middle zone. Thanks to breeding work, varieties have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in various regions of Russia.

Recommended planting dates for cherries depending on the region:

  • Southern regions. Here, cherries are planted mainly in the fall, as soon as the leaves begin to fall. In the fall, the seedling takes root well, and by spring it becomes a fully grown plant.
  • Central regions, Siberia, Far East. Due to cold winters, autumn planting of seedlings is contraindicated here. Cherry trees are planted here mainly in the spring. Seedlings are usually planted in April - while the buds have not yet swelled. Holes for spring planting are prepared in the fall.

Cherry varieties recommended for cultivation in some regions of Russia

Region Recommended and grown cherry varieties
VolgogradDaibera black, Early pink, Rossoshanskaya, Valeria, Priusadennaya
Leningrad regionLeningradskaya black, Revna, Fatezh
Ural and SiberiaCherries are grown on dwarf rootstock VSP-2 in slate and standard form

Characteristics of cherries

The sweet cherry is considered the closest relative of the cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries; only in 1491 did botanists determine that these are different crops, although they belong to the same family. Sweet cherries are often called “bird cherries,” and in Europe even Chekhov’s famous play is called “The Cherry Orchard.”

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have also bred dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides more convenient fruit harvesting.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the condition of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and guini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Cherry is self-sterile; for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties nearby. The Iput cherry is especially good for pollination.

The lifespan of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short fruiting period. There are 4,000 varieties of cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting cherries

Spring and autumn planting have their pros and cons, which largely depend on climatic conditions. To determine the timing, it is important to evaluate and compare the features of autumn and spring planting.

Why is it beneficial to plant a seedling in the spring:

  • If a seedling is planted in April, then it has at least six months to take root and gain strength. Having grown shoots before winter, the seedling will survive it safely.
  • Spring planting over autumn planting has an important advantage - gardeners can observe the development of the plant in the summer, taking, if necessary, measures to eliminate negative factors - drought, waterlogging, pests, diseases.
  • The seedling is planted in a hole prepared in the fall. During the winter it settles, so it is easier to plant the seedling correctly - so that the root collar is not buried more than necessary.

Disadvantages of spring planting:

  • If you plant a seedling in the spring, then in March or April it will suffer from dry winds and pest invasion.
  • In the spring, a seedling, spending energy on rooting, also spends energy on vegetation - the formation of shoots and leaves.

Using cuttings

Most often, cherries are propagated by cuttings. This method has many advantages. First of all, they are easy to cut yourself or buy. The resulting plant will retain all the varietal properties of the mother tree. Fruits will appear on it within 5 years. The disadvantages of this method include the fact that it requires a lot of attention; the cuttings must be carefully cared for.

It is recommended to plant in June, then new plants have time to take root and get stronger before frost. There are two methods of cuttings: green cuttings cut in June are planted in a greenhouse, and those prepared in the fall can be planted in open ground.


Propagation of cherries by cuttings is popular

Planting in a greenhouse

To do this, green cuttings with 2 leaves at the top are cut in June. Their length is about 15 cm. They are taken from the bottom of the tree. It is recommended to place them in a solution of a root formation stimulator at night, and plant them in the greenhouse in the morning. A regular arc is suitable for this. Be sure to add drainage under the soil layer. Mix the soil with sand and humus, add a little wood ash. Plant cuttings at a distance of 5-6 cm, deepening 3-4 cm into the soil.

How to make white cherry jam

In order for the seedlings to take root better, they need to be properly cared for:

  • immediately feed with phosphorus fertilizer;
  • water regularly - 3-5 times a day, but do not allow water to stagnate to prevent rotting;
  • Watering is best done by irrigation;
  • maintain temperature 25˚;
  • in hot weather, cover the greenhouse with a tarpaulin or branches;
  • protect from pests.

Note! With proper care and favorable conditions, rooting of cuttings usually occurs within 1-1.5 months.

Landing in the ground

You can plant cuttings directly in open ground in June. But for this purpose they are harvested in autumn or winter. Cuttings are taken from a healthy fruit-bearing tree. His age should not exceed 9 years. You need to choose strong shoots from the lower part of the crown. Suitable thickness: from 7 mm, length – from 30 cm. Each cutting must have at least 3 healthy buds.

You need to cut the cuttings with a very sharp knife, in one motion. Store them in a cool place in winter, not allowing the temperature to rise above +5˚. It is usually recommended to tie the cuttings, wrap them in film and place them in the cellar. Inspect every 2 weeks to ensure no mold or rot appears.


Cuttings harvested in the fall are stored in a cold place in winter

You need to plant in pre-prepared neutral soil. It is loosened to a depth of 40-50 cm, ash and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added. Before planting, place the cuttings in a solution of a root formation stimulator for a day. The prepared branches need to be buried so that only the top bud remains on the surface. Cuttings are often planted, since not all of them take root. After this, they need to be watered abundantly and mulched.

Selection of seedlings

There are a number of features that are important to pay attention to when purchasing a cherry seedling:

  • Graft. The grafting must be visible on the seedling - this is a guarantee of the quality of the planting material. The quality of such a seedling is much higher than that grown from seed.
  • Zoning. They choose varieties zoned in a specific region - those that have proven themselves better than others in a given climatic zone.
  • External characteristics of the seedling. The tree must have a strong conductor that dominates the side branches. Specimens with a forked trunk are not suitable - they may break under the weight of berries in the future. The seedling must have a developed root system. There should be no broken or damaged roots. The seedling selected for planting must be in the dormant stage.
  • Age. You should not buy seedlings older than three years.

We recommend reading an article that will help you choose the most common varieties of cherries.

They buy seedlings from nurseries or specialized retail outlets that have permits. It is advisable that the seedling have a varietal passport, which usually indicates how to plant the seedling correctly and how to care for it.

Cherry grafting is the best method of propagation

Grafting is the fastest way to get a harvest. This method allows you to preserve all varietal characteristics, and due to the greater winter hardiness of the rootstocks, increase the frost resistance of the plant itself.

What is the difference between grafted and ungrafted cherries?

Ungrafted cherries have no trace of grafting on the trunk. Such trees are usually grown from seeds. At the same time, they retain all the species characteristics, but not the varietal ones. Grafted cherries have a clearly visible graft mark just above the root collar.

What can you graft cherries on?

Plants are best grafted onto related plants or those belonging to the same species. Sweet cherry belongs to the Plum family, and also includes cherry, plum and cherry plum. Therefore, the best rootstock for cherries should be chosen from this group of plants.

Is it possible to graft cherries onto cherries?

You can graft cherries onto another variety and grow several varieties of cherries on one tree. The method is widely used to save space in the garden, since there is no need to plant pollinating trees. Two or more varieties are found on the same tree and cross-pollinate each other.

How to graft cherries onto plums

Grafting cherries onto plums is done to obtain more tasty fruits and increase productivity. It can be done in several ways, the most effective of which is by splitting. However, such grafting is rarely done, since cherries take root on the plum tree for quite a long time.

Is it possible to graft cherry onto a pear?

Pears and cherries belong to different families (pomaceae and stone fruits, respectively), so such experiments are very likely to end in failure. With enough time and seed material, you can experiment, but the result will require a lot of time and money.

Grafting cherries onto bird cherry

Again, this is an experiment with an unknown end, since it is unknown what will come out of such a hybrid. Even if the scion takes root on a bird cherry rootstock, you will have to monitor it throughout its life.

In Soviet times, such a hybrid was considered possible for the following reason. Sweet cherries were often grafted onto antipka - wild cherries. Previously, this plant was classified as bird cherry, and only not very long ago it was classified as a different species.

Is it possible to graft cherries onto cherry plums?

Cherry grafting onto cherry plum takes root well and is done quite often. It improves the plant's hardiness and helps it grow normally in places with high groundwater levels.

Nuances of cherry grafting for sloe

The sloe is a distant relative of the plum, so grafting may well be successful. However, few people will use sloe rootstock for planting on the site, since it forms a large amount of root shoots, which they will constantly have to fight.

Is it possible to graft cherries onto an apple tree?

For the apple tree, everything that has already been said about the pear above is true. Such a vaccination can only be done as an experiment, which most likely will be unsuccessful.

Cherry grafting onto rowan

Pome trees (apple, pear) are often grafted onto rowan, but stone fruits, as a rule, do not take root on it. It is hardly advisable to use rowan rootstock for cherries.

Scion preparation

For the scion, you need to use mature lignified cuttings of the first year of life. They must meet the following conditions:

  • The thickness is about 7–8 mm, approximately like a simple pencil.
  • Short internodes.
  • The number of developed growth buds is at least 5 pieces.
  • Length from 30 to 40 cm.

It is best to take cuttings from trees no older than 10 years old. Cuttings are harvested in late autumn or early winter, after the first significant frost. At this time, the cold temperature had already killed most of the fungi on the bark, and the cuttings themselves had hardened.

Cut cuttings are usually stored collected in bunches and tied. Any container can be used for storage. The storage location itself can be different, the main requirement for it is not to awaken the tree’s buds until spring. Many people simply store the container outside, burying it in the snow. To prevent damage by rodents, the container is wrapped in nylon or covered with fiberglass.

If the deadlines are missed, they can be harvested in early spring, while the plant is still in a “dormant” state. At this time, cuttings are prepared with a reserve, since some of them may be frozen.

If the grafting is done in the summer, the cuttings are not stored. At this time, delay is extremely undesirable, so the vaccination is done immediately.

Cherry grafting dates

Spring vaccination is the most reliable. At this time, the sap flow of the tree is most active, so the survival rate of the scion is the best. Trees can be grafted all summer until September. A later vaccination simply will not have time to take root.

What trees can I plant cherries with?

Sweet cherries bear full fruit only in a favorable neighborhood. Moreover, if trees are planted nearby with which the cherry tree conflicts, there may be no harvest at all.

Cherry is a cross-pollinated tree; therefore, two or more seedlings are planted at once.

Favorable neighbors for cherries:

  • cherry;
  • Apple tree;
  • plum.

It is undesirable for cherries to grow near:

  • pears;
  • peach;
  • walnut;
  • black currant;
  • rowan.

Preparing for landing

Planting a cherry seedling is a responsible task that should not be rushed. One mistake is enough for the tree to die or not produce a harvest. The gardener must take into account everything - from the proximity of fruit trees to the composition of the soil. Before you bury the planting material in the soil, you have to choose a place, prepare it and the seedling for planting.

Selecting a location

Landing site requirements:

  • Good lighting. The site is chosen on a southern or south-eastern slope so that it is well heated by the sun.
  • Protection from northern winds.
  • Low groundwater level. If the waters lie at a level of 1.5 m from the ground level, the tree dies due to gum disease.

Cherries are never planted in lowlands.

Soil preparation

In arid areas, cherries grow best on fertile loam. In regions with fairly high humidity - on sandy loams. Clay, peaty and sandy soils are not suitable for cherries. Suitable acidity is pH 6.7-7.1. If a seedling is planted in black soil rich in humus, then a pH level of 8.0 is acceptable.

The soil for planting a seedling should be:

  • airtight;
  • moderately humid;
  • weakly acidic.

When planting in spring, the land is prepared in the fall - it is dug up and fertilizers are applied. In the fall, most gardeners also prepare planting holes.

If the soil does not meet the requirements for planting cherries, it is improved by adding sand to clay soils, and clay to sandy soils.

To provide the cherries with nutrients, a mixture of soil and fertilizers is added to the planting hole; it is prepared from:

  • topsoil – 2 parts;
  • humus - 1 part;
  • peat – 1 part;
  • potassium sulphide – 50 g;
  • superphosphate – 100 g.

The components are mixed, and 10 days before planting the seedling, the hole is filled 1/3 with the resulting mixture.

Do not apply nitrogen fertilizers when planting cherry seedlings - they can burn the roots.

What should the hole be like?

When a place for planting has been chosen, they begin to dig a hole. In this case, the fertile layer is deposited separately from the extracted soil. If there is spring planting ahead, you need to prepare the hole for planting no less than 2 weeks in advance. Recommended pit dimensions:

  • depth – 70 cm;
  • width – 80-100 cm.

The dug hole should not have any narrowing of the walls. When planting several seedlings, a gap of 2 m or more is left between adjacent holes.

Seedling

Its further development depends on the correct preparation of the seedling for planting. Preparation procedure:

  • 24 hours before planting, the seedling is immersed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
  • Before planting, cut off damaged roots, if any.
  • Long roots are trimmed so that the root system fits completely in the planting hole.
  • All leaves are removed so that the seedling does not lose moisture.

Step by step: how to properly plant a cherry seedling in the fall

The instructions for carrying out the work consist of several stages. Each of them is important, so it is better to follow these recommendations:

  1. The hole must be dug approximately 3 weeks before planting. Its size is 50x50 cm, the depth is approximately the same. It is important that the walls of the hole are strengthened and the soil at the bottom is compacted. If the weather is dry, you can add a couple of buckets of water 1-2 days before work.
  2. When the groundwater is located high enough or the area is often flooded in the spring, it is necessary to provide drainage. To do this, make a hole 30 cm deeper and pour a layer of medium-fraction crushed stone.
  3. A nutrient mixture of fertile soil and humus mixed in equal proportions should be placed at the bottom. Usually add 2-3 buckets and pour water for better compaction.
  4. The seedling also needs to be prepared before starting work. If it has an open root system, it is advisable to soak the lower part in water for a day. You can add a root formation stimulator there. Another great solution is to make a mash of clay and mullein and dip the roots in it.
  5. Drive a peg into the hole offset from the center, so that you can then tie the tree to it.
  6. Carefully place the seedling in the hole, straighten the roots so that they are evenly distributed throughout the entire perimeter.
  7. Cover with soil and compact well. When placing cherries, remember that the root collar should be located above ground level. To prevent water from spilling when watering, you can make a small bead around it.
  8. Water the tree generously to saturate the soil to the depth of the roots.

By the way!

If the seedling had a closed root system, then you need to carefully remove the container before planting and straighten the roots that stick out outside and were pressed.

If it was not possible to carry out the work on time in the fall, it is better not to risk it and save the cherry seedlings until spring. To do this, wrap the root part with damp burlap and place the tree in a basement or other cool, dark place.

Step-by-step instructions for landing

The procedure for planting cherry seedlings:

  1. Drive a support into the center of the hole to which the seedling will be tied.
  2. After mixing fertile soil with compost and adding complex fertilizer, place the mixture at the bottom of the hole.
  3. Place the seedling in the center of the mound of soil mixture, and add enough soil so that the root collar is 3 cm above the soil level. To remove voids, the soil is compacted.
  4. Form an earthen cushion around the seedling.
  5. Pour 20 liters of water under the root of the seedling.
  6. Pour peat into the tree trunk circle to prevent water evaporation.
  7. Tie the seedling to the support, carefully without over-tightening the trunk.

Experienced gardeners advise filling the gaps between cherry seedlings with berries.

To learn how to plant cherry seedlings, watch the video below:

How to deal with pests and diseases?

This fruit tree is susceptible to various diseases, not to mention pests in the form of birds and insects.


Most often, the diseases are of fungal etiology - moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis. In addition to these, the most common in gardens, cherry trees are attacked by scab, fruit rot, witch's broom and others.

Fungal diseases must be combated preventatively by regularly spraying. For spraying, a solution of urea and water with the addition of drugs such as Iskra-Bio, Akarin, Fitoverm, Zircon, Agravertin is suitable.

As for external pests, there are also quite a lot of them and you should be wary of not only birds, but also small aphids, flies, leaf rollers, moths and others. Spraying with a solution of Confidor, Actellik, Karbofos helps to get rid of them successfully.

Basics of further care

Measures for caring for young seedlings:

  • Having planted a seedling, its central conductor is immediately cut off - shortened to 1 m.
  • A seedling planted in spring is watered every 10 days. Watering rate is from 2 buckets. From mid-July the tree does not need to be watered.
  • In the first year of life, there is no need to feed the tree - all the necessary substances are placed in the planting hole.
  • Throughout the season, gardeners must monitor the health of trees, promptly spraying them with drugs against diseases and pests.
  • In the second year, several (3-4) skeletal branches are left on the tree, pruning them by a third. Gradually, annually cutting off the central conductor and cutting out excess branches, three tiers are formed. The last tier consists of 1-2 branches.
  • Cherry does not like weeds, so there should not be any near the trunk or in the tree trunk circle. The soil is regularly loosened, at the same time removing weeds.
  • For a safe winter, the young seedling needs autumn feeding. In September, granular superphosphate is added to the root - 40-60 g per 1 square meter. m.

Cherry tree care in spring

The growing season begins at the beginning of spring. At this time, the tree needs the correct actions of the gardener, who will provide it with proper care.

Fertilizing cherries during flowering

The rules for planting cherries in the spring are provided in the video; all you have to do is familiarize yourself with the application of fertilizing. A fast-growing tree develops especially well if it receives its portion of mineral fertilizers without nitrogen additives in the spring. For 1–2 year olds, it is enough to take 120–125 g of urea, which is scattered and buried within the tree trunk.

Advice! Ignoring the amount and type of fertilizers, as well as the timing of application, leads to a decrease in the viability and winter hardiness of the tree, the branches become elongated, and the yield decreases.

Watering cherries during flowering

If a drought begins during flowering, the correct thing to do is to water it, increasing the amount of moisture starting from 2-3 buckets, depending on the age. It is advisable not to forget about loosening, ensuring moisture penetration to a depth of 40–45 cm. Lack or absence of moisture will negatively affect the formation of ovaries and the subsequent harvest.

Watering cherries after flowering

After flowering, watering cherries is the key to a good harvest. It is enough to resort to the procedure only once every 7 days, but there should be a lot of water. As in spring, moisture must reach the root system. A ring groove dug at a depth of 20–30 cm along the periphery of the crown will help conserve water under the tree.

Watering cherries during ripening

As soon as the fruits begin to ripen, stop watering the cherries. Excessive moisture causes the berries to crack and lose their pleasant taste and attractive appearance. The entire period until late autumn, cherries do not need such care.

How to feed cherries after flowering

Young trees are not fed for the first 3 years. Older plants need to be fed:

  • humus, a small amount of compost;
  • 200–400 g urea;
  • potassium salt;
  • superphosphate.

You can also use limestone, but only in the 5th–6th year of cultivation.

Trimming and shaping

Proper planting of cherries is impossible without additional crown formation, during which damaged branches are pruned. It is important to choose the right time when the temperature is above zero around the clock, but the kidneys have not yet begun to awaken. Young seedlings are pruned every spring for at least 5 years. In older trees, the main conductor is shortened by 20–25 cm, and the sprouts developing in the middle of the crown are thinned out.

Advice! Branches with buds cannot be completely removed, as this will lead to the death of the guide.

Common mistakes when planting in spring

The consequence of any mistake made by the gardener is a reduction in the yield, up to its complete absence. Maximum damage is the death of the tree.

Common mistakes when planting cherry seedlings

Error Consequences of errors
Deepening the root collarBuds do not bloom in a timely manner
A variety selected that is not suitable for a particular regionFreezing of a tree
Yellowed and purple leaves after plantingWatering with cold water
Inhibition of the root system and death of the seedlingOverdose of fertilizers during planting
Long-term adaptationPlanting a seedling older than 2 years

FAQ

Gardeners often have questions related to planting cherry seedlings. They are interested in what is the best way to plant this tree, and whether it can be replanted.

How to plant grafted cherries?

Grafted cherries are planted in the same way as own-rooted ones. But if the graft is located lower than usual, it is important to ensure that this place is not buried in the ground. It is advisable that the grafting be 6-7 cm from the soil level. If the region is snowy, seedlings with the grafting located at a height of 50-100 cm are needed.

How to plant cherries with pits?

If you grow cherries from seeds, you will not be able to get an original plant. From a seed taken from the most delicious and largest cherry, an ordinary game grows - small and sour. A tree grown from a seed is frost-resistant, resistant to diseases and pests. Why is it? It can be used as a rootstock for grafting cherry trees or for landscaping.

How to plant cherries with pits:

  1. The seeds are taken from completely ripe fruits. extracted from the pulp, washed and dried.
  2. Place the seeds in a paper bag and store until December. Storage temperature is room temperature.
  3. When December comes, the seeds are soaked for several days. The water is changed every day.
  4. The bones are placed in a container with moistened sand and sawdust.
  5. Place the container in a cool place (can be in the refrigerator) for 3 months.
  6. They take it outside in March and cover it with snow.
  7. The sprouted seeds are placed in separate pots. Depth – 1.5-2 cm.
  8. Seedlings that have grown to 10-15 cm dive into larger pots.
  9. By autumn, seedlings grow up to 30 cm.
  10. A month before frost, they are planted in the ground, covered with plastic bottles.

Is it possible to plant cherries using cuttings in the spring?

The method of propagation by cuttings allows you to obtain all varietal characteristics from a new tree. But this propagation option is not suitable for all varieties. Usually no more than 10% of cuttings take root. And only in a few varieties this figure reaches 50%.

You can plant cherries from cuttings in the spring; this is done in the same way as when planting ordinary seedlings. But first the cuttings need to be rooted. It's not difficult, but it takes time. In central Russia, the timing for harvesting cuttings is June 10-30.

How to replant a tree in spring?

If it is decided to transplant a young tree from place to place, it is dug up in the fall and planted in the spring. Procedure:

  • The day before digging, moisten the soil.
  • Carefully remove the tree, having first dug a groove around the circumference - according to the diameter of the root system.
  • Without destroying the soil lump, the tree is buried outside for winter storage.
  • In the fall, a planting hole is prepared.
  • When early spring comes, the buried tree is taken out. It is planted just like a regular seedling.
  • To prevent the plant from losing strength as it grows shoots, its skeletal branches are cut off by 30%. All flowers are also removed to prevent fruiting in the first year of transplantation.

It happens that you have to replant an adult cherry tree. Such an event does not benefit the tree, but if necessary, it is quite feasible. Transfer order:

  • In September, a circle is drawn around the tree with a diameter corresponding to the root system. They try to cover as many roots as possible.
  • Using a shovel, cut the roots to 1/2 of the circle, and dig a trench along this half. The depth of the trench is 1 bayonet shovel.
  • In the trench, the roots are again cut by one bayonet.
  • Having filled the trench, water it with water - the tree feeds on half of the roots that remain untouched. New roots will appear on the cut part.
  • A month later, the procedure is repeated for the second half of the circle and watered for two weeks.
  • When spring comes, the tree is dug up and, together with a lump of earth, moved to a new location.

Spring planting of cherries is an ideal option for central Russia. Seedlings planted in spring have a better chance of taking root safely and growing into a strong, high-yielding tree.

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Propagation of cherries by green cuttings

Cuttings taken from non-lignified shoots of the current year are called green. This method is widely used for propagating many trees and shrubs, including cherries. The advantage of this method is that green cuttings take root much better.

All varietal characteristics of the mother plant are preserved in full with this method of propagation.

Is it possible to grow cherries from green cuttings?

Green cuttings are considered not a particularly effective method for cherries. However, you can try to propagate it this way.

When to carry out green cuttings of cherries

Green cuttings are cut in June, and in regions with short summers - in July. It is better to cut cuttings early in the morning, while it is still cool. You can do this even in cloudy weather.

How to propagate cherries using green cuttings

For green cuttings, young side shoots of the current year, growing at the bottom of the crown on the sunny side of the tree, are best suited. They should not show signs of fungus or other diseases. To take cuttings, you need to select branches at least 30 cm long with large, well-developed buds.

The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife; pruning shears are not suitable for this purpose, as they crush the cut site. The cut shoots are cut into cuttings 8–12 cm in size and placed in water or in a container with damp moss. After completing the harvesting procedure, the cuttings are prepared for planting in the greenhouse. Before this, their lower cut is kept in a solution of a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin) for 15–20 hours, and then planted in nutrient soil under a film.

Caring for rooted cuttings

Care consists of regularly moistening the soil, as well as maintaining the temperature at +25..+27°C. The greenhouse with cuttings must be ventilated regularly. The cuttings should not be exposed to direct sunlight. If all planting and care rules are followed, rooting occurs in 3–4 weeks.

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