Caring for grapes in spring: processing and feeding

The need for spring work: why is it important

After a long winter, the plants wake up, active shoot growth begins, and the buds swell. At this time, winegrowers need to clearly plan their work, taking into account the climate of the area, the varietal specifics given in the description of the crop, the weather, and growing conditions.

At the same time, in the southern regions, where the grapes are not covered, they have been working since February, so the concept of “spring” here is rather conditional than calendar. Gardeners in temperate climate zones also have a lot of troubles, where they need to not miss the deadline for opening the vines, provide for the protection of plantings from possible return frosts, and have time to trim the bushes in a timely manner.

The growth and development of culture depends on the correctness of the work carried out. Grapes are capricious, demanding care, and any miscalculation affects yield indicators. With the arrival of spring comes the “hot” time.

For beginners, it is better to write out a step-by-step plan of action, take on board the experience and advice of experienced gardeners in order to properly care for grapes, always taking into account local characteristics.

Landing place

The first stage is preparing the recess. It is important that no other crops grow nearby. Grape roots grow over time and require sufficient space. The second nuance: providing warmth and light.

The southern (southwest) side of the garden is most suitable; there should be enough space. The distance to other crops is at least 4 m. The optimal location is on a slope (for protection from the wind).

Main stages

Work begins with the arrival of warm weather, when the air temperature remains stable at +5 ºC. The exact timing varies depending on the region: in the Crimea and Kuban, vines are pruned already in February, while in the middle zone and Moscow region plantings begin only in April. In Siberia and the Urals, they often keep shelters on grapes until the middle or end of May. If conditions are favorable, work will begin in mid-April.

Opening bushes

In temperate regions, caring for grapes in the spring begins with the opening of the vine. This is done gradually, always waiting for the onset of a stable air temperature of +5 ºC...+6 ºC.

On a note! It is necessary that these indicators be maintained for 5-7 days.

A common mistake made by beginners: covering plantings for a long time even in warm weather. Excessive care leads to the fact that the vine (especially annual ones) fades, begins to turn black, and rot and mold appear on the shoots.

How to avoid mistakes:

protective materials are removed gradually - first, during the day, the ends are opened, then the canvas or film is removed from above;
to improve ventilation and prevent the appearance of condensation inside the shelters, ventilation holes are made in the film or fabric;
replace dense materials (burlap, tarpaulin, film) with lighter ones (lutrasil, spunbond).

The shelter is completely removed when the temperature at night is not lower than +5 ºC.

Trimming

This procedure begins before sap flow begins. With the arrival of warmth, the shoots come to life and it is important not to miss this moment, otherwise the prolonged “crying” of the grapes will not be avoided. Usually in the spring, gardeners work with industrial varieties, leaving the drastic pruning of table varieties for the fall.

After winter, it is imperative to remove frozen, deformed, damaged and dry shoots. Prepare gardening tools in advance: sharpen knives, pruning shears, buy or make your own mixtures to putty the cuts.

In addition to sanitary pruning, formative pruning is carried out, adjusting the length of cordons and sleeves. The root shoots are removed and the shoots are cut into a certain number of eyes.

If time is lost - the buds are already swelling on the branches, then the procedure is postponed.

Stopping the "crying" vine

Liquid (sap) usually appears on cuts or damaged areas of shoots after spring pruning. Normally this does not cause concern. The period of “crying” of the vine lasts up to 2-3 weeks. Usually, when young shoots and leaves begin to grow, the bushes stop “crying.”

You need to be wary in cases where the release of sap is delayed. A large amount of leaking sap leads to a large loss of nutrients and weakens the bush, drying out the branches. The sap gets on the kidneys, causing rotting and various fungal infections.

If frosts are observed during the “crying” period, then there is a high risk of damage to the shoot bark: the appearance of cracks and deformations.

How to avoid the problem:

strictly adhere to the deadlines for pruning bushes in the spring. If time is lost, the procedure is postponed until the shoots grow to 13-15 cm;
use only well-sharpened tools;
when removing branches, be sure to leave a stump;
the cut near the eye should be directed in the opposite direction from it, otherwise the released sap will flood the bud;
the sections are burned with fire or special putties are used.

Detailed information about the procedure is in the article on our website.

Watering

For a good harvest, it is important to provide the grape plantations with water in a timely manner. Early watering (moisture-charging) promotes rapid warming of the soil around the plants and stimulates root growth.

Use settled warm water, the minimum temperature should be about +16 ºC.

On a note! If frosts are expected in the forecast, water recharging with cold water saves the bushes from freezing.

The norm for the first spring watering is 20-30 buckets per adult grape bush. If the soil is dry, irrigate the plantings once every 10-12 days, but significantly reducing the rate: 2-3 buckets per bush. Constantly monitor the level of soil moisture, avoiding waterlogging and excessive dryness.

Abundant watering is necessary before flowering (18-20 days); During it, as well as during the budding period, the grapes are not watered, otherwise the flowers will fall off. It is advisable to carry out irrigation using drip irrigation systems (the best option) or through trenches and holes.

Adult bushes are watered using drainage pipes dug into the ground. In the first year of planting, the soil is moistened by pouring water into the holes (grooves) around the bushes. The soil must be loosened, preventing the appearance of an earthen crust. The first time this is done immediately after removing the protective covers, the second time before flowering.

After water-replenishing irrigation, it is recommended to mulch the soil around the plants with pine needles, rotted sawdust, wood chips, and chopped straw.

Mulch protects the soil from drying out, prevents weeds, and improves fertility. Well-groomed vineyards with mulched soil look attractive, while the lower bunches are clean, without traces of dirt and dust.

Caring for grapes in winter

In winter, it is necessary to prepare the necessary fertilizers for grapes:

wood ash;
humus;
compost;
mineral fertilizers "Master", "Novofert", etc.

From time to time you should check the condition of the planting material. If the root system dries out, the seedlings need to be moistened, and, conversely, if there is excessive humidity, they will need to be opened and ventilated.

If the weather is warm in January, bushes of unsheltered varieties can be pruned; in cold weather, insulated bushes are covered with snow.

In February, green seedlings begin to be grown from cuttings.

In addition, preparations for the warm season begin: the tensions and arches are cleaned of old vines, and tools are prepared.

Protection against return frosts

Even in the south in the spring, plantings run the risk of frost, the weather is so unpredictable. What can we say about grapes grown in risky farming zones: in the regions of Siberia, the Urals, the North-West, as well as central Russia.

Cold weather is especially dangerous if buds begin to bloom on the shoots. If the forecast predicts a cold snap, it is recommended to treat the bushes with a solution of iron sulfate (1%). This will slow down the growing season of the plant without any consequences for the grapes.

Gardeners also build light shelters: they put up arcs with non-woven material, and spill cold water on the plantings.

Removing covers

Vines grown in temperate regions are usually covered for the winter. In spring, when grapes “awaken” from sleep, they require special attention. As soon as the air temperature during the day becomes above zero, and the ground warms up to +4 ˚С, sap flow begins in the plant. In the middle zone, this phase of the growing season begins in late April - early May. Gardeners need to remove the insulation after winter. If this is not done on time, there is a risk of damping off the vines.

It is not recommended to open the entire vine - return spring frosts can destroy the bush. First, only the top layer of covering material is removed. Usually its thickness is greatest. This could be soil, pine branches or foliage. The bottom coating is thinner, so it can be left untouched for some time (it is agrofibre or film). The only thing is that holes are made in it to provide the plant with good air circulation. This action will protect the seedling from mold damage. When the likelihood of frost returning is minimal (early May), the grape bushes are completely freed from insulation. The landmark is the appearance of germinating shoots on the plant and a persistent increase in air temperature to +10 ˚С.

In areas with a long spring and a cold climate, it is better to build an unheated greenhouse. The design will protect the vine from sudden temperature changes. It is periodically opened for ventilation, even if there is enough air, heat and lighting inside.

Sometimes gardeners notice a whitish coating on plants. This phenomenon does not pose a threat to grapes and is formed due to increased air humidity. It will soon disappear on its own.

Feeding

After winter, grape plantations need additional nutrition. At the same time, it is important not to overfeed the plants, otherwise intensive growth of green mass will begin to the detriment of fruiting.

Application deadlines and norms:

Immediately after removing the covers, add ammonium nitrate (10 g), superphosphate (15-20 g) and potassium (5-7 g). The proportions are given for a ten-liter bucket of water. Pour 10 liters onto each adult bush.
In mid-April, they are additionally fed with organic matter using mullein or chicken droppings. Fertilizers are diluted in a ratio of 1:10 or 1:20 and applied in liquid form. Some gardeners use compost, cow or horse manure, spreading the fertilizer around the bushes and incorporating it into the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm.
After the first leaves appear, it is recommended to add complex compounds containing manganese, zinc, and iron.

Root feeding is combined with watering.

The crop responds well to spraying. In the spring, young leaves are given a solution of urea (per 1 liter of water - 2 g of fertilizer) or a solution of ready-made preparations “Florovit”, “Master”. To prevent the composition from evaporating from the leaf plates, add a small amount of sugar to the solution.

Attention! Spray the bushes early in the morning or in the evening to prevent sunburn of the leaves.

Timing of foliar feeding of grapes in spring: before and immediately after flowering (twice). We must not forget about insect repellent treatment.

Catarovka grapes

At the end of spring, the grapes are catarrhized. This process involves pruning the roots growing close to the surface of the earth. The work should be carried out with very sharp garden tools. Before you start work, you need to fully understand, because incorrect actions can harm the root system of the plant and destroy it. Therefore, it is important to study all the nuances and become familiar with all the subtleties.

Small roots, located at a depth of up to 25 cm, are called “dew” roots. They absorb water from the earth's surface during a long period without precipitation, and begin to dry out and die. They are also affected by soil freezing . These factors lead to the death of grapes, so bushes of any variety and age should be subjected to catarrhization.

Weakened, small roots are cut off immediately. This does not affect the development of the vineyard. Stronger, more robust roots are removed gradually. This process can take more than one year.

People often ask: is it possible to carry out catarrhization in early autumn? Yes, if necessary - you can

To successfully carry out a catarrh, the following rules must be observed:

free the trunks from the soil to a depth of 25 cm;
Use sharp pruning shears to trim dew roots;
to prevent infection, the sections are treated with an antiseptic solution;
The holes are filled with soil.

Such an event preserves the health of the bush, ensures growth and a high yield. Roots located deep in the ground are less susceptible to the negative influence of weather conditions. But not all gardeners perform root pruning, especially if they have 100 or more plants.

Protection from pests and diseases

In addition to fertilizing, in the spring and early June, procedures to protect plantings from pests and various infections are mandatory.

Unfortunately, the crop is susceptible to diseases (especially in the southern regions), and timely prevention greatly simplifies the care of grapes and avoids long-term and not always successful treatment in case of infection. Spraying is also needed against insects that wake up with the arrival of warm weather.

For preventive treatments, fungicides and insecticides (chemical, biological) are used, and formulations are prepared according to folk recipes.

Deadlines:

After the vine opens. Spray the branches and soil around the bushes with fungicidal preparations. A solution of copper sulfate (3%), Bordeaux mixture (3%), and Topaz, Skor, and Quadris products are used. Suitable biological products include Planriz, Trichodermin, and Fitosporin.
When stable heat sets in (usually at the end of April, and earlier in the south). They are treated with insecticides “Fufanon”, “Karbofos”, “Fury”, biological agents “Gaupsin”, “Metarizin”, “Aktofit”.
After the grapes bloom. Combined mixtures are prepared, selecting fungicides and insecticides that are compatible with each other.

If the appearance of pests is noticed, the treatments are repeated, following the recommendations of the instructions for the product. Folk remedies for fungal diseases include treatments with solutions of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water), baking soda (20-25 g per bucket of water).

Spraying the bushes with an infusion of crushed garlic helps against spider mites.

Plant care during and after flowering

Depending on climatic conditions and the variety, grapes begin to bloom in May - early June. The budding vine should not be sprayed with chemicals, so as not to destroy the inflorescences. Therefore, spraying is carried out either before flowering or after the formation of the fruit cluster.

During the flowering period of grapes, the mandatory procedures for the garden are:

tying shoots so that the wind does not break them;
pruning parasitic shoots from dormant eyes to protect the bush from depletion;
feeding bushes with natural and artificial additives;
treatment of grapes with insecticidal additives;
stepsoning. The easiest way to care for plants is to remove 1st order stepchildren; however, second and third order stepchildren also pinch out

Garter

Grapes are a type of perennial shrub vine, so the crop is grown using supports. Timely staking is part of a set of mandatory agrotechnical practices that contribute to the proper development of bushes and high yields.

Dry tying (attaching perennial shoots to trellises) is carried out in the spring, giving the trunk or sleeves the desired direction according to the chosen formation pattern.

Standard timing: time from the start of juice movement to the swelling of the buds. During this period, the vine is flexible, so it is simpler and easier to give the shoots the desired position.

Use a washcloth or twine. The sleeves are fastened in an inclined or vertical position, tying long shoots in several places. The fruit shoots are directed horizontally, clasping them loosely in the middle to give room for growth and development.

On a note! For one- and two-year-old bushes, nets are suitable as support.

If placed and tied incorrectly, the upper shoots will grow rapidly, absorb the main nutrition, drowning out the development and growth of the lower branches and buds. Therefore, fruit shoots must be tied horizontally, taking into account the polarity of the growth processes of the crop.

As necessary, a green garter is applied to the growing shoots to the second row of trellises. The procedure is repeated every 2-4 weeks, avoiding accumulation and shading of inflorescences and leaves.

Variety selection

The wide variety of varieties can confuse novice winegrowers. You should choose grapes for cultivation based on your own preferences, needs and climatic conditions of the area where they grow.

Residents of the harsh northern and central regions of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus are better off giving preference to frost-resistant varieties with a short ripening period. This will allow the vineyard to quickly form a harvest in conditions of short summer and low temperatures. Also, high resistance to frost will provide reliable protection against adverse environmental factors.

A good option for uncovered grapes would be the varieties Lilia, Isabella, Arcadia, Victoria, and Augustine.

One of the important factors in choosing grapes is its purpose. If you want to produce wine for personal use or for sale, give preference to technical varieties.

White wine lovers can choose Aligote, Feteasca Alba, Bianca. Connoisseurs of rose wines will be pleased with Rose Muscat and Traminer. Cabernet - Sauvignon, Saperavi, Regent will give a rich taste of black. Don't forget about one of the most common varieties - Isabella.

Lovers of fresh fruits, jams, compotes and juices can opt for table grape varieties. Furor, Livia, Victor, Arcadia, Julian and all types of raisins can decorate your table.

Additional events

In addition to the listed procedures, in the spring, winegrowers are engaged in planting seedlings or cuttings (chubuks), as well as engrafting scions.

Vaccinations

Experienced gardeners are actively experimenting on their plots, seeking to increase productivity and improve certain varietal parameters of the crop. To renew old plantings, as well as to replace some varieties with others, grafting is used.

The procedure is labor-intensive, but if you master the subtleties, it allows you to get a harvest of berries faster than when planting seedlings.

In spring, grapes are grafted:

copulation method;
wedge (butt);
into the cleft;
end-to-end, as well as on a separate root.

It is important that the buds on the scion are dormant, and on the rootstock they swell or slightly bloom. It is advisable to work before active sap flow begins or to graft the grapes later.

Only healthy material is used, dry and weakened cuttings, rootstocks with mold, rot, and signs of pest damage are discarded.

After grafting, the new growth is tied up, the condition of the soil is monitored, not allowing it to dry out, and the bush is slightly shaded from direct sunlight. It is also recommended to periodically spray the plant with antifungal drugs.

Features of landings

Caring for young grapes begins with planting seedlings. First, determine the appropriate time for work: spring or autumn.

Events are held on the following dates:

From late April to early June;
From October until the first frost.

The fall season carries more risk: bushes often die during the colder months. A plant planted in spring has time to get stronger before winter frosts.

There are two options for the future vine:

Plant with a root system (the most common method);
Vaccinations are distinguished by excellent fruiting and disease resistance, but are expensive.

When choosing a seedling, carefully examine the root. When cut, it is moist to the touch and white in color. Only a well-developed root is suitable.

The grape trunk should not be damaged. Take a seedling only with buds, but pay attention so that they do not fall off when touched.

Trimming

Pruning is carried out throughout the season, in spring, summer and autumn. The main objective of the procedure is to form a strong, healthy bush that can produce a harvest and withstand frost.

To do this, secondary shoots—stepchildren—are removed and shortened. The same is done with excess inflorescences, clusters and foliage. Thus, nutrients go to the development of main shoots and the formation of a powerful root system, and not to the development of green mass.

Attention! Pruning should be done with clean and disinfected agricultural tools to avoid infection.

You can get acquainted with the correct pruning and the structure of grape bushes from the video.