Morozovka cherry - an unpretentious variety with dessert fruits


Description of the variety

The variety was bred by T.V. Morozova by crossing Lyubskaya and Vladimirskaya cherries at the All-Russian Research Institute of Horticulture named after I.V. Michurin. In state variety testing since 1988.

The Morozovka cherry tree is medium-sized, up to 2.5 m high. The relatively low tree ensures convenient harvesting. The crown is wide, not very dense, spherical. The tree bark is light brown.

The leaves are green, small, narrowly oval in shape, smooth, with double-crested serrations, without pubescence. The flowers are large, white, horn-shaped. The petal shape is round. Flowering period is average.

The tree is medium-sized with a wide-rounded raised crown of medium density

The fruits are a rich dark burgundy color, without cover points, round, with a depression at the base. The size is quite large, the weight of one berry varies from 4.8 to 5.1 g. The pulp is juicy, dark red, dense. The taste of the berries is dessert. Characterized by high sweetness against a background of medium acidity. The seed is small, oval in shape, and easily separated from the pulp.

Average weight of berries - 5 g

The fruits are rich in hematopoietic elements: iron, cobalt, copper. The pulp contains bactericidal substances. Pectins remove nitrogenous waste from the body. In addition, cherries improve appetite, quench thirst, have a beneficial effect on intestinal function, and promote efficient digestion of proteins and fats.

Chemical composition of fruits - table

Element Substance content per 100 g
Sugar 10,5%
Acids 1,37%
Ascorbic acid 30 mg

History of selection

Morozovka belongs to the cherry varieties obtained by Russian breeders. The originator of the variety was breeder T. Morozova in the 80s of the last century. The work was carried out at the Michurin Research Institute. This cherry variety was created for a temperate climate, for regions with not too hot summers and long, cold winters.

Breeding work was carried out with an emphasis on giving the variety resistance to low sub-zero temperatures and resistance to fungal diseases, in particular coccomycosis. Also, the berries of the new variety had to have an excellent taste.


Morozovka cherry allows you to get an excellent harvest even in a small area

Cherry varieties Lyubskaya and Vladimirskaya were used in breeding work. The Lyubskaya variety has very tasty and large berries, and the variety is also resistant to coccomycosis and other fungal diseases. Vladimirskaya cherry is very frost-resistant. The new variety has acquired stable characteristics, in which it has collected all the best from its parents.

Did you know? Hanami is a holiday held in Japan to commemorate the blossoming of cherry trees, marking the time for young Japanese to enter a new life: graduating from school or university, looking for a first job.

Advantages and disadvantages

The selection variety has successfully gotten rid of many shortcomings; only one remains - with the return of spring frosts, the flower buds freeze and die.

But Morozovka has many advantages:

  • increased winter hardiness of the trunk and branches;
  • average height;
  • immunity to coccomycosis;
  • drought resistance;
  • dessert taste of berries;
  • early fruiting;
  • universal use of fruits;
  • good transportability.

Morozovka is a self-fertile variety, but for better fruiting it is recommended to be in proximity to such cherry varieties as Griot Michurinsky, Lebedyanskaya, Zhukovskaya.

Photo gallery: The best pollinators for the Morozovka variety


The Lebedyanskaya cherry variety is characterized by high productivity


The Zhukovskaya cherry variety is resistant to fungal diseases


The cherry variety Griot Michurinsky is highly resistant to coccomycosis

Comparison of Morozovka with other similar varieties - table

Morozovka Turgenevka Youth Chocolate girl Vladimirskaya Shubinka Victoria
Tree height Up to 2.5 m 3m 2–2.5 m 2–2.5 m 2.5–5 m More than 4 m 3m
Barrel type tree-like tree-like Bushy tree-like Bushy tree-like tree-like
Fruit weight 4.8–5.1 g 5 g 4.5 g 3.5 g 2.5–3.4 g 2.5 g 3.8–4.1 g
Fruit color Maroon Dark red Maroon Almost black Black-red Dark red Dark red
Taste Sweet, dessert Sweet and sour Sweet and sour, dessert Sweet and sour with bitterness Sourish-sweet Sour Sweet and sour
Pulp Dense Dense Dense Medium density Dense Medium density, slightly loose Medium density
Pollinators
  • Griot Michurinsky;
  • Lebedyanskaya;
  • Zhukovskaya.
  • Same age;
  • Vladimirskaya;
  • Griot of Ostheim.
  • Vladimirskaya;
  • Apukhtinskaya;
  • Lyubskaya.
  • Vladimirskaya;
  • Griot of Ostheim;
  • Bottle.
  • Griot Moscow;
  • Lyubskaya;
  • Fertile Michurina;
  • Turgenevka.
  • Lyubskaya;
  • Black consumer goods;
  • Vladimirskaya;
  • Griot Moscow; Saika.
  • Zhukovskaya;
  • Morozovka;
  • Lebedyanskaya;
  • Griot Michurinsky.
Flowering time Average Average Average Average Average Average Average
Beginning of fruiting for 3–4 years For 5th year For 4 years For 4 years For 2–3 years For 4–5 years For 4–5 years
Ripening period second half of July First half of July Second half of July First half of July Mid July Early August Second half of July
Harvest from one mature tree 11–13 kg 20–25 kg 10–12 kg 10–12 kg 20–25 kg 18–25 kg 20–25 kg
Frost resistance High High Above average good good High High
Disease resistance High resistance to coccomycosis Average resistance to coccomycosis, moniliosis Average resistance to coccomycosis, moniliosis Susceptible to coccomycosis, moniliosis Susceptible to fungal diseases Average resistance to coccomycosis High resistance to coccomycosis
Favorable areas for cultivation Any region of Russia
  • Central;
  • Central Chernozem;
  • North Caucasian.
central region central region
  • Northwestern;
  • Central;
  • Volgo-Vyatsky;
  • Central Chernozem;
  • Middle Volga.
  • Volgo-Vyatsky;
  • Central;
  • Northwestern.
  • Central;
  • Central Black Earth.

Brief characteristics of the variety

Morozovka is considered one of the best varieties of domestic cherry selection. Delicious berries, high resistance to unfavorable growing conditions and diseases make it a crop suitable for farming and private gardens.

Drought resistance, winter hardiness

You can water Morozovka, even in hot summer, several times a season - the variety has high drought resistance. High winter hardiness allows it to be grown in areas with temperate and cool climates. According to gardeners' reviews of Morozovka cherries, flower buds can freeze only in the north of the Black Earth Region. Wood can withstand low temperatures well.

Pollination, flowering period and ripening time

The Morozovka cherry blossoms in the middle period. This allows most regions to avoid late frosts and wait for bees and other pollinating insects to fly out. The Morozovka cherry harvest begins in the second half of July.

The best pollinators are Griot Michurinsky, Zhukovskaya, Lebedyanskaya. Morozovka cherry is self-sterile; without other varieties, only 5% of the possible number of berries will set.

Productivity, fruiting

Morozovka is early-bearing, it gives a harvest in the 3-4th season after planting. Berries appear on it every year, unless the flower buds freeze in the northern regions.

The fruits have a dessert taste and are highly transportable. They are easily separated from the stalk; mechanized harvesting by shaking is possible. Therefore, despite conflicting reviews about columnar cherries, Morozovka is convenient to grow in this form on large farms.

In Michurinsk, the variety produces a yield of 50-60 centners per hectare.

Area of ​​application of berries

Although the Morozovka cherry is classified in the VNIISKP catalog as producing fruits for universal purposes, their taste is sweet, the acid is weakly expressed, and the pulp is juicy and dense. It is often called dessert and is consumed fresh, leaving only the remains of the harvest for processing.

Meanwhile, excellent jam is made from Morozovka, wines and juices are prepared. The technological qualities of the berries are excellent, and they are transported well.

Resistance to diseases and pests

According to gardeners' reviews of the Morozovka cherry, it has such high resistance to coccomycosis that it rarely suffers from it even during epiphytoty years.

Reference! Epiphytoty or epiphytosis is a mass destruction of plants by diseases or pests, an analogue of an epidemic.

Resistance to insect attacks is average.

Advantages and disadvantages

If we consider the culture as a whole, the characteristics of the Morozovka cherry variety can be called outstanding. The advantages include:

  1. High resistance to coccomycosis even in years of mass destruction of cherries of other varieties.
  2. Stable yield.
  3. High drought resistance.
  4. Excellent berry taste.
  5. Morozovka is one of the most winter-hardy varieties of ordinary cherries.
  6. Medium tree size - easy to harvest.
  7. Possibility to grow Morozovka as a columnar crop.
  8. Average flowering times allow you to get a harvest in the northern regions.
  9. Possibility of mechanized berry harvesting.
  10. The variety produces high yields even in unfavorable conditions.
  11. The stone is easily separated from the pulp, which makes it easier to process the fruit.

The disadvantages of Morozovka cherries include:

  1. Self-sterility of the variety.
  2. In the north of the Chernozem zone, flower buds can freeze in severe winters.
  3. The berries are weakly attached to the stalk. They can be collected using vibrating harvesters, but cherries can also fall off in strong winds.

Landing

The future harvest of berries will depend on the choice of seedling and proper soil preparation. Even a novice gardener can carry out simple activities.

It is best to plant trees in the spring, before the buds open. In the fall, planting in the northern regions is extremely undesirable, but in the southern regions, on the contrary, it will give positive results.

How to choose a seedling

Annual and biennial seedlings take root well and quickly adapt to new conditions.

An important point is to examine the root system and bark. The roots should be well developed, without signs of rotting or disease. A green, moist layer of tissue should be visible under the bark. If, when removing a small section of bark, you find dryness, it means the seedling has died.

High-quality cherry planting material should be about a meter high, with several branches and a branched root system of at least 20–30 cm, without signs of diseases or damage on the leaves and bark

Landing place

Morozovka cherry is a light-loving variety. The plant should not grow in the shade of other trees or in the cold wind. In the garden you need to choose a site on the south side, near a fence or building. The wall will help retain snow, so the roots will be warm all winter. However, it is necessary to take into account that the young tree will grow, and the fence should not become an obstacle to the branches.

How to prepare the ground

The soil on which the tree will grow and bear fruit should not be acidic or overly calcareous. Acidic peaty soil is contraindicated for cherries. The ideal option is sandy loam, sandy soils and chernozem. In the fall, before planting seedlings, the site is dug up, adding the following fertilizers to the soil:

  • organic: 8–10 kg per 1 sq. m (compost, manure);
  • mineral: 150–200 g per 1 sq. m (superphosphate);
  • ready-made complex fertilizers: 150–200 g per 1 sq. m.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not used when preparing the soil.

To maintain the balance of soil acidity, it is limed:

  • on acidic sandy loam soil - 400–500 g of lime per 1 sq. m;
  • on heavy loamy soil - 600–800 g.

It is important to remember that these works must be carried out separately from the work on applying organic fertilizers.

In the first years of life, the cherry tree needs nutrients, so they are added to the planting holes. The holes are prepared in the fall; holes are dug about 0.4 m deep and 0.5 m wide. The distance between the holes should be 3.5–4 m.

The following mixture is placed at the bottom of the pit:

  • 10–15 kg of humus or aged compost;
  • 200 g superphosphate;
  • 60 g of potassium sulfate or 0.5 kg of ash.

If the soil is clayey, add 1 bucket of sand to the planting hole.

Before planting seedlings, the soil is pre-planted with organic, mineral and ready-made complex fertilizers.

Step-by-step description of the process

For planting cherries, it is best to choose a sunny, windless morning. Seedlings that have lost some moisture must be placed in a bucket of water for 4–6 hours.

  1. A wooden peg is driven into the middle of the planting hole to stabilize the seedling.
  2. A mound of earth is raked to the peg from the bottom of the hole so that its top coincides with the edge of the hole.
  3. The seedling is placed on a hill, the roots are carefully straightened, covered with earth, and trampled down. Tied to a peg. The root collar should be 5 cm above the ground.
  4. An earthen bank with a radius of 30 cm is poured around the hole.
  5. The tree is watered abundantly (2-3 buckets of water are needed).
  6. The tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust or humus.

If you plant cherries in the fall, then after planting it is necessary to hill up the young tree with soil. The soil is raked 30–35 cm towards the trunk. This will help prevent the roots from freezing in frosts.

Proper planting of a cherry tree determines its survival rate in the garden plot

How to plant cherries - video

Landing Features

Morozovka needs to be planted nearby with pollinating trees

The Morozov variety is not capable of self-pollinating, so the tree can bear fruit only when additional crops are planted nearby . Zhukovskaya, Vladimirskaya, Griot Michurinsky, Turgenevka and Lebedyanskaya are suitable for this variety .

Photo gallery: the best pollinators for Morozovka


Cherry variety Zhukovskaya


Cherry variety Vladimirskaya


Turgenevskaya cherry variety


Lebedyanskaya cherry variety

For a bountiful harvest, you need at least 2-3 pollinators.

A good landing site should meet the following criteria:

  1. Cherries need constant access to sunlight, so choose a place for it on the southwestern or western side of the garden.
  2. It should also be taken into account that the tree should not be exposed to wind.
  3. The soil can be sandy loam, sandy or loamy. Cherries require a neutral acidity level (pH 6–6.5).
  4. It is advisable to place the seedling on a slight elevation, but if this is not possible, you need to choose a place with groundwater no closer than 1.5 m to the surface.

Planting can be done in the spring, in the second half of March, or in the fall - in early September . During this period, the plant will not be exposed to frost and drought, thanks to which it will be able to take root better. For planting, it is recommended to purchase a two-year-old seedling, since the crown of such plants is already sufficiently formed. But you can also use a one-year-old tree.

A healthy cherry seedling is the key to successful development of the crop

To determine a healthy plant, the following factors should be taken into account:

  • a high-quality seedling has a height of 70 to 110 cm and a root length of at least 15 cm;
  • the surface of the branches and trunk must be without damage.

To prevent the roots from drying out, after purchasing, you should immediately wrap them in damp burlap and then in a bag.

The tree should not be kept out of the ground, especially if it was purchased in the fall and planting is planned in the spring. To create comfortable conditions for the plant, it is buried. To do this, you will need a hole 30–35 cm deep, into which the seedling is placed at an angle of 45°. Then it is sprinkled with soil, including in addition to the roots and 25 cm of the trunk, and removed only before planting.

To eliminate the possibility of purchasing low-quality planting material, you should go to a nursery to purchase cherries.

For planting Morozovka, choose loam, sandy or sandy loam soil.

Step by step landing

  1. The tree is planted in a hole 50 cm deep and 80 cm wide. The removed soil is mixed in equal proportions with humus, then 40 g of superphosphate, 1 kg of ash and 20 g of potassium chloride are added.
  2. A 130 cm long peg is installed in the center of the pit.
  3. Next, a tubercle 15 cm high is poured at the bottom from the prepared mixture. A seedling is placed on it, on the north side of the peg. The root collar of the plant should be located 5 cm above the surface. If you place it deeper, after the soil settles it will end up in the ground, which is extremely undesirable.
  4. The roots of the cherry are spread well, after which the hole is filled. The soil needs to be slightly compacted, then dig a ring hole at a distance of 30 cm from the tree and pour 30 liters of water into it.
  5. When the moisture is well absorbed, the tree trunk circle should be covered with mulch (shavings, peat, fresh soil).
  6. Then the cherry is tied to a peg. Pollinators are placed 2.5–3 m from the seedling.

Care

After planting, cherries require comprehensive care: watering, loosening, pruning, fertilizing, protection from diseases and pests.

How to care for a hole

Throughout the spring-summer period, weeds should be combated, which grow in the tree trunk and take nutrients from the young tree. Weeding and loosening the soil will greatly benefit the cherry tree. The flow of air to the roots will have a positive effect on the taste of the berries and the volume of the harvest.

In autumn, the soil around the trees is dug up deeply, adding the necessary fertilizers to the soil.

Watering

Although the Morozovka cherry is drought-resistant, it requires a certain amount of moisture to ensure normal functioning. Watering is carried out several times a season, 4–7 buckets of water per tree, depending on its age.

  1. After flowering.
  2. During the formation of the ovary.
  3. After the harvest.
  4. Before preparing for winter (no later than October 20).

Important! If irrigation is too frequent, air is displaced from the soil and the growth and development of the root system is disrupted.

Trimming

Competent and timely pruning of cherry branches helps the gardener maintain a strong and healthy tree and obtain abundant harvests. This type of work should not be neglected. You will need a pruning knife and pruning shears for thin branches, and a saw for larger ones. All tools must be well sharpened and clean.

Using a dull blade can cause lacerations that can become a source of infection, or even cause the plant to die.

When pruning, try to use a tool suitable for its intended purpose and ensure it is sharp enough to ensure a clean, easy and safe job.

To ensure effective rooting of the seedling and formation of the crown, the newly planted tree is pruned. There are several rules:

  1. The branches are pruned before the buds open.
  2. Leave 4-5 strong branches, removing all the rest.
  3. The branches should be directed in different directions, the distance between them should be 8–10 cm.
  4. Treatment of cuts with garden varnish.

Subsequent pruning is carried out annually in the spring before the start of sap flow. If this moment is missed, then the work should be postponed until next year.

The following are subject to removal:

  • intertwined branches (leaving more dense);
  • branches that grow close to each other;
  • growing inside the crown;
  • old, diseased, cracked branches.

During pruning, annual shoots are shortened by a third if their length is more than 1 meter. During rejuvenation, pruning of skeletal branches is carried out to the point where the plant stops growing lateral branches. Anti-aging pruning is carried out every 2-3 years.

Important! All cuts are treated with garden varnish. It is applied with clean hands to the damaged area in a thin layer.

Garden pitch is a special putty used to treat wounds that form when pruning branches.

Feeding and fertilizer

When planting a young tree, the necessary nutrients are placed in the hole, which is enough for the cherry for 2-3 years. Then, for 7 years, fertilizers are applied every year. Next, the cherry will need mineral (once every 2 years) and organic (once every 4 years) fertilizers.

Table: Cherry feeding

Year Period Preparations and proportions Consumption Where to deposit
2 Early in the spring. 80–100 g of urea. Under every tree. Under digging.
3 Early in the spring. For 10 liters of water: 20 g of urea or 30 g of ammonium nitrate. 5 l per tree. Annular grooves.
4 Early in the spring. 150–200 g of urea. Under every tree. Under digging.
Second half of summer.
  • 300–350 g double superphosphate;
  • 100–120 g of potassium sulfate.
Under every tree. Tree trunk circle.
In autumn. Compost or humus. 20 kg per tree. Annular grooves.
5 Early in the spring. 30 g of ammophoska per 10 liters of water. Under every tree. Annular grooves.
6
7 Early in the spring. 300 g urea. Under every tree. Tree trunk circle.
In autumn.
  • 400–500 g double superphosphate;
  • 150–200 g of potassium sulfate.
Under every tree. Tree trunk circle.
Compost or humus. 40–50 kg per tree. Annular grooves.

Preparing for winter

In addition to autumn watering and fertilizing, cherries need additional care to protect the tree from frost.

The lower branches are pressed to the ground and covered with tops or straw. When a permanent snow cover falls, the snow is raked up to the tree trunk and sprinkled with sawdust. In harsh climates, the cherry trunk is additionally covered with burlap or paper.

Choosing a dessert cherry seedling Morozovka

You need to purchase a seedling from a specialized store, nursery, or prepare it yourself. Under no circumstances should you purchase a seedling from someone in the markets, as they may be infected. If you choose a seedling in a nursery or store, then the choice should fall on an annual cherry, the height of which should be 75-90 centimeters. A two-year-old seedling will also take root well, only the height should be less than 115 centimeters. The trunk should be beige-brown in color, and the root system should be large and well developed.

Note: If the stem is green, this indicates that the bark has not matured. But growth may correspond to the required height; this only means that the plant was heavily fed, which caused strong growth.

Protection from diseases and pests

To keep trees healthy, you need to carefully inspect the trunk, branches, leaves and fruits. At the first signs of disease, the cherry tree needs first aid.

Table: Prevention and treatment of major cherry diseases

Disease Coccomycosis Moniliosis Hole spot Anthracnose
Symptoms Brown spots on the foliage. The bark and fruits are covered with small gray growths. Brown spots with a dark border on the leaves. Gray dull tubercles with a pink coating on the fruit.
Processing period and treatment Before flowering, use the drug Skor according to the instructions. Before buds open - 3% iron sulfate. Beginning of flowering, immediately after flowering and after 2-3 weeks - copper oxychloride (30-40 g per 10 liters of water).
  • Before the flowers appear, immediately after flowering and after 2 weeks - the drug Polyram according to the instructions;
  • immediate removal of diseased fruits.
during leaf bloom - 3% Bordeaux mixture.
Color loss – 0.4% copper oxychloride or 0.1% Topsin-M.
  • After flowering - 1% Bordeaux mixture;
  • preparations Kuprozan, Fthalan according to the instructions.
After harvesting - 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.4% copper oxychloride.
Prevention
  • Destruction of fallen leaves;
  • digging up the soil.
Spring spraying of branches and soil with 3% Bordeaux mixture.
  • Destruction of fallen leaves;
  • digging up the soil.
Before and after flowering - a solution of manganese or zinc sulfate (0.2%).

The main diseases of cherries in the photo


Excessive rainfall in summer contributes to the massive spread of coccomycosis


With perforated spotting, fruits in places of infection stop growing and dry out to the very seed


Anthracnose affects ripening and already ripe fruits


Moniliosis is a dangerous fungal disease of cherries.

To obtain a rich harvest, Morozovka should be protected not only from diseases, but also from pests.

Table: Cherry pest control

Cherry weevil Cherry aphid Shoot moth Cherry sawfly
Description Bronze-green beetle.

Eats buds, buds, leaves.

Insect 2–2.4 mm.

Lays eggs in autumn at the base of the buds.

In spring, drink the juice from the back of the leaf. The shoots do not grow, the foliage dries out.

Red-brown butterfly.

Causes damage to shoots and ovaries.

The insect is black in color with a shiny casing, which is covered with mucus on top.

It eats away the pulp of the leaf, dehydrating the tree.

Processing period and treatment
  • If detected: shake off the tree onto a white cloth.
  • After flowering: karbofos (70 g per 10 liters of water). Repeat after 1 week.
  • Before flowering: preparations Komandor, Iskra, Fitoverm according to the instructions.
  • 2-3 times per season: dandelion tincture (pour hot water in a 1:1 ratio, leave for 2 days).
  • Planting near trees of marigolds, dill, yarrow.
  • Early spring: 1% solution of the drug DNOC.
  • Swelling of buds and after flowering: 80% chlorophos, 10% karbofos or nitrafen.
3 times per season: chamomile tincture (800 g of chopped herbs, 150 g of inflorescences, pour 10 liters of warm water, add 15 g of grated laundry soap).
Prevention Whitewashing the trunk, digging, loosening the soil, removing old bark and leaves.

Photo gallery: Main cherry pests


The cherry weevil is very cautious; it flies away or falls to the ground in the grass when it senses a person approaching


Leaves damaged by cherry aphids turn black, wrinkle, and then dry out.


The cherry sawfly is a pest of stone fruit trees.

Landing instructions

Before planting, you need to prepare a hole where the plants will be planted. It should be about 70 centimeters wide and about 50 centimeters deep. If the cherry roots are larger, then the pit is prepared according to the size of the roots.

  • First you need to mix 3 kilograms of soil with humus, this will be a starting fertilizer for cherries. You can also add potassium salt and superphosphate to the soil.
  • Then you need to establish the normal acidity of the soil; if it is normal, then nothing needs to be done. And with high acidity, you need to add lime to the soil.
  • A pole should be placed near the trunk, which will serve as a support for the plant. Cherry tree branches must be tied to this post.
  • You need to install the cherry tree in the hole and fill in the root system, while compacting the soil. It is necessary to avoid the appearance of voids in the ground. The root collar should protrude 8-9 centimeters from the soil.
  • The trunk must be surrounded with a small layer of earth.
  • In the end, you need to water the cherries generously.

Features of fruiting

Morozovka is an early ripening variety. With careful care, the first harvest can be obtained within 3–4 years. The first time the cherry tree will bear about 200 g of berries.

The ripening period of Morozovka allows you to pick the fruits in the 20th of July. The average yield is 11–13 kg per mature tree.

The yield of the Morozovka cherry variety is average, regular

Berries are stored longer if they are removed with the stalk. In the refrigerator at a temperature of about 0 degrees, the fruits can last 3 weeks. To store cherries in a cool place, they are poured into a glass jar in layers with dry leaves.

The berries are suitable for freezing and drying. They tolerate long-term transportation well.

Morozovka is a dessert, very sweet berry. In addition to fresh consumption, cherries are good for canning and homemade preparations. Fragrant compotes, preserves, jams will not let you forget the taste of summer in cold winter.

Plants that may or may not grow next to Morozovka cherries

This point is very important when choosing a landing site. For example, pollinating cherries or other stone fruits will be good neighbors for the Morozovka cherry variety. They need to be placed at a distance so that everyone gets the sun's rays.

Under no circumstances should you plant creeping plants next to the crop, which quickly fill the soil with their root system. These include raspberries, sea buckthorn, blackberries. Cherries and black currants will not get along, as they will simply compete. If oak, maple, birch, walnut or linden are planted nearby, they will destroy the cherry.

When the crop begins the process of fruiting and also takes root in the open ground, you can plant a ground cover plant next to it, which will cover the root system from the burning rays of the sun and also retain moisture in the soil.

Note: It is very important to loosen the soil to ensure good oxygen saturation of the root system.

Reviews from gardeners about Morozovka cherries

The Morozovka and Turgenevka cherries are blooming and smelling, and they are a delight with berries for the second year already.

Hedgehog's tail

https://deti.mail.ru/forum/dosug/obo_vsjom_na_svete/nuzhna_pomoshh_sadovodov_plodovye_derevja/?page=3

Morozovka is very sweet, practically without acid, but sterile, the pollinator is Zhukovskaya.

Ira

https://www.divosad.ru/forum/9–271–2

The unpretentious Morozovka cherry grows and bears fruit in any climate and is resistant to coccomycosis. The berries are tasty both fresh and in winter preparations. The variety is ideal for growing by beginning gardeners.

  • Author: Vita Gornaya
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Harvesting

Cherries are harvested in dry weather. Morozovka cherry variety is best suited for fresh consumption, as well as for preparations.

It is used to make jam, juice, various desserts, kvass, liqueur, and is used as a filling for baked goods.

There is an interesting way to store cherries. Place clean, dry, fresh cherry leaves in layers in a clean glass jar, layering them with berries. The top layer should be leaves. The jar is closed with a plastic lid and placed in a cool place. The berries are stored until winter.

Rules for planting the Morozovka variety

Gardeners believe that March and the first ten days of April are very good periods for planting cherry trees . But if desired, cherries can also be planted in the fall, when the soil temperature has not yet dropped below +3°C. This period occurs in early or mid-November.

It is believed that autumn planting is more appropriate, because the seedling will have time to adapt , and in the spring such a tree will begin to rapidly grow roots and above-ground parts. When planting several cherries, the distance between them should be at least 3 m.

Important! If cherry seedlings are purchased long before planting, they should be kept in a “trap”, a soil depression of up to 40 cm. In this case, the seedlings are laid so that their roots and part of the trunk (about 25


30 cm) were covered with sand or wet soil.
In the place chosen for the cherry, a hole is dug in the soil, at least 50 cm wide and at least 45 cm deep. The main indicator that the width and depth of the planting hole is sufficient is the free placement of the roots of the seedling in it. In order not to make a mistake with the dimensions, the seedling is periodically placed in the planting hole for “trying on” - if the depth or width is insufficient, this is corrected.


Dimensions of the planting pit: width - 50 cm; depth - 45 cm.

Fruit trees require fertile soil, so before planting it is necessary to enrich the soil with organic matter and minerals . It is advisable to prepare the planting hole long before planting, so that the organic matter decomposes in the soil during this time. If the planting hole has not been taken care of in advance, then well-rotten organic matter should be taken as organic fertilizer.


Liming cannot be carried out simultaneously with the addition of organic matter.

For one cherry seedling, it is enough to add to the planting hole:

  • one bucket of humus or compost;
  • 100 g of potassium fertilizers and superphosphate;
  • liter jar of wood ash.

Several shovels of fertile soil collected from the top layer of soil are added to the bottom of the planting hole .
These nutrients will be enough for young cherries for several years of growing season. Important! After purchasing a seedling with an open root system, you must immediately after purchase moisten the roots with water and cover them with foil or polyethylene. Otherwise, the roots will be dehydrated, and there is a possibility that the cherry seedling will not take root.

When planting a seedling, broken, dry, moldy parts of the root are removed. Thick roots are cut by one third with pruners before planting; if they are damaged, pruning is carried out above the damage site. The roots are then placed in a mixture of fresh cow dung, clay and water. The thick mixture should resemble homemade sour cream.

If there is no manure, such a mash is made only from clay and water . The mixture stimulates the appearance of new roots and helps heal wounds.

Planting a seedling:

  1. The tree is placed in the center of the hole so that the grafting point remains above ground level. A tall wooden peg is placed nearby; in the future it will serve as a support for the cherry.
  2. The roots should be straightened and not squeezed by the edges of the planting hole.
  3. The gardener covers the roots with soil, periodically shaking the seedling by the top to better settle the soil on the roots.
  4. A depression is formed around the planted tree in the root zone for ease of watering.
  5. At least a bucket of water is poured under the root of the planted tree, after which the earth will settle a little in the hole, so you will need to add a little soil.
  6. At the end of the planting procedure, the tree and the support peg are connected to each other using a figure-of-eight grip using a non-rigid garter material (fabric or leather).

Features of further care

After planting, cherry seedlings are watered throughout the season as the soil dries.
You should also regularly loosen the root zone and remove weeds. After the tree is completely rooted, it should be watered only when the weather is hot and dry.

. Also, in the process of preparing trees for winter, it is necessary to carry out moisture-charging irrigation.

Watering is carried out rarely, but abundantly, once every 12-14 days, adding 20-30 liters of water under each cherry. Stop adding moisture to tree trunks 14-20 days before harvest.

These stone fruit crops are very fond of organic fertilizers, which are regularly applied to the tree trunks, mixing them with wood ash. Morozovka cherries are also fertilized with mineral fertilizers

, their composition should contain more nitrogen and potassium, and less phosphorus.

Cherry feeding

In spring and autumn, if necessary, sanitary and formative pruning of Morozovka cherries is carried out

, removing damaged, dry, frozen branches, as well as those growing in the center of the crown.

Necessary conditions for cultivation

To obtain a high yield, you need to create optimal conditions for growing the crop. The right location and soil composition will provide the cherry tree with everything it needs for good development.

Climate and planting regions

Any region is suitable for growing cherries. Its high resistance to frost and early ripening of fruits allows it to be planted in Siberia, the Urals, in temperate latitudes and in the south. In the southern regions, the fruits are ready for harvest in mid-summer. Most varieties of cherries are not suitable for the north, as they can hardly tolerate winter frosts. Frosting allows you to keep cherries in your own garden and enjoy their fruits.

Soil composition

The plant is not picky about the composition of the soil. Loamy, sandy loam and sandy soils are suitable for planting. On clay soils, drainage is laid in the planting pit to ensure the drainage of excess moisture. The acidity of the earth should be neutral. Before transferring to open ground, fertilizing is carried out.

Favorable and Undesirable Neighbors

Cherries are planted next to other varieties of crops. The proximity to apple trees, plums and peaches is also favorable. You should not plant Morozovka next to bushes. Their roots extend to the side and take food from the tree.

How to care for cherries

An adult cherry tree requires careful and careful care from the gardener, consisting of watering, pruning and protection from diseases and pests.

Important! If you need to protect a newly planted cherry seedling from severe frosts, just soften several stale loaves of bread in water, squeeze them out, and tightly stick the bread mass around the trunk. In the spring, the dried bread crust is carefully removed from the tree and fed to wild or domestic birds.

Watering

In the southern regions in the summer, cherry trees need watering regularly, at least once a month . At the same time, at least 2 buckets of water are poured under each adult tree. In areas with a temperate climate, cherries are practically not watered - they only need moisture from precipitation and night dew.

Feeding

Autumn digging can be combined with fertilizing the soil with organic matter . To do this, before starting digging, compost or well-rotted manure is laid out under the cherry tree. During the digging process, fertilizer is incorporated into the soil. To fertilize one mature tree, 2 buckets of organic matter are enough.

Find out more about the features and methods of feeding cherries.

Soil care

The space under the trees also does not go unnoticed by the gardener. Twice a year, surface soil cleaning is carried out : raking and removing fallen leaves, mummified fruits, and broken branches outside the garden. It is not recommended to place fallen cherry leaves in a compost heap, as they can be contaminated with pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases.

In autumn, the soil under the cherry tree is dug up with a bayonet shovel, moving the bottom layer of soil upward (with the rotation of the layer). The movement of soil layers is done so that pests and their larvae hidden for the winter reach the surface, from where they will be eaten by birds or freeze during frosts.

It is useful to read how to make cherries bear fruit.

In the summer, the soil under the cherries should be kept free of weeds . Weeds growing near a fruit tree are a breeding ground for harmful insects such as aphids, lacewings, and fruit flies. The most successful option for maintaining soil in the garden is to cover the surface with grass. The grass in the garden should be mowed at least twice during the summer.

Trimming

The pruning procedure is carried out by the gardener annually. It is optimal if pruning work is carried out in spring and autumn . Spring pruning includes the formation and lightening of the crown, rejuvenation of the plant; at the same time, unnecessary young shoots and old branches are removed. In autumn, pruning is more of a sanitary nature. During the procedure, non-viable, dry branches and mummified fruits attached to the branches are removed.

All plant fragments remaining after sanitary pruning are taken outside the garden and burned . There is a need for destruction by fire, since plant debris contains pathogens of stone fruit diseases, eggs and larvae of pests.

Description of culture

A very important property of a culture is its sterility without the right neighbors. Therefore, it is so important to take care of additional pollinators for the cherry tree. Only with their help will the gardener be able to achieve a bountiful and tasty harvest.

Additional pollinators should grow no further than 10 m from the main tree. Turgenevka, Zhukovskaya or Vladimirskaya cherries are perfect for this. It is important that the crops have at least approximately the same flowering time. Then they will successfully pollinate each other in a timely manner.

Ripening period

The culture begins to bloom by April. During this period, large white flowers (sometimes with a slight pink tint) can be observed on the tree. They exude a bright, pleasant aroma that can be felt from afar. The first harvest will be harvested by the end of July. But this is only relevant for trees older than 3-4 years. In the first two years after planting a seedling, you should not expect berries from it.

Drought resistance, frost resistance

Even in hot, dry summers, the tree does not require frequent watering. It is enough to moisten the soil around it only a few times per season. The variety also had high frost resistance. Therefore, it can be grown in areas with both warm and temperate or cold climates.

Experienced gardeners note that the buds of the crop occasionally freeze only in the northern part of the Black Earth Region. But the trunk and branches tolerate low temperatures well. In general, the tree can withstand cold temperatures down to -27°.

Appearance of plant and fruit

Morozovka is a small neat tree with a lush crown and very beautiful fragrant flowering. The height of the crop is usually 230-250 cm. Cherries have strong strong branches that rise slightly upward. For this reason, the crown from the side resembles a ball. Despite its density, there is enough free space between its branches.

The leaves of the plant are oval - small but long. They are usually jagged around the edges and have a soft, tender feel. The petioles of the berries are very long and have a bright, rich color. The white flowers on the tree are small with smooth round petals.

Berries on Morozovka usually ripen in a very bright, rich color - closer to burgundy. Medium sized fruits. The weight of each berry averages 6-7 g, but can reach up to 10 g (in favorable conditions and with quality care). The taste of cherries is very sweet (therefore the variety is considered dessert) and resembles cherries. If the fruits have not yet fully ripened, then they become very sour.

100 g of ripe pulp contains slightly more than 10 g of sugars and only 1.3 g of acids.

The cherry pulp is dense, but quite juicy. There is a small round bone inside it. If the fruits are fully ripe, the latter is very easily removed from the berries.

The cherry has a thin but dense skin that perfectly protects the pulp. Therefore, fruits can be collected not only carefully by hand, but also mechanically - using special devices. The harvest is convenient to transport over long distances and store.

Productivity

Morozovka cherry (the description of the variety and photos of which will help you get a preliminary idea of ​​the crop) is capable of producing an excellent harvest even without special care. The berries on the tree ripen large, sweet, with only minimal sourness.

Already in the third year after planting, the crop begins to bear fruit. You can get up to 15 kg of berries from a tree. Then the crop bears fruit every year. With proper care, the yield gradually stabilizes and increases.

Description of the plant, characteristics of pollination and fruiting

The tree is spreading, of medium height, with a wide-round (spherical), sparse, moderately leafy crown. The bark on the trunk and skeletal branches is light brown. The shoots are large, grayish-green, the number of lentils is average. The buds are ovoid, strongly deviated. The leaves are large, obovate, light green, matte, smooth, without pubescence. The edge of the leaf blade has a double crenate serration. Petiole with anthocyanin color. There are 1-2 small red glands at the base of the leaf and on the petiole. The stipules are rather short, usually falling off early.


Flowering occurs early

The flowers are large, pink-shaped, with white rounded petals, the pistil is longer than the stamens.

"Dessert Morozova" belongs to the category of partially self-fertile . Fruits well if there are nearby trees with similar flowering periods. Recommended pollinators are “Vladimirskaya”, “Griot Rossoshansky”, “Griot Ostgeimsky”, “Studentskaya”. Fruit buds are formed on annual growths - fruit twigs.

The variety is propagated by vegetative methods: grafting (the best rootstock is “Vladimirskaya”) and green cuttings, the rooting efficiency of which under favorable conditions reaches 70%.

Precocity and productivity

The plant is early-bearing and enters productive age in the 3-4th year after planting in the garden. The yield is stable, regular, and quite high: with industrial cultivation it is 50-70 c/g and exceeds the control variety “Lyubskaya” by 10 c/ha.


In the middle zone, harvest time usually falls in the second ten days of June

Sustainability

High winter hardiness is considered one of the valuable features of the variety. The plant is characterized by average drought resistance. There is increased immunity to the fungal disease coccomycosis, but in unfavorable years with a high infectious background, minor lesions are possible.


Coccomycosis is a common problem that gardeners encounter when growing stone fruit crops.

Fruit characteristics

The cherries are one-dimensional, rather large, red, round, reaching a weight of 3.7 to 4.6-5 g. At the base of the fruit there is a medium-sized depression, the apex is concave, the abdominal suture is barely noticeable, there are small subcutaneous points (in small quantities).

A separating layer is formed between the fruit and the stalk, which ensures dry tearing without damaging the pulp. The peduncle is medium thick, elongated. The bone is round and small. The pulp is dark red in color, very juicy, tender and soft in consistency. It has an excellent dessert taste - sweet with a slight pleasant sourness. Tasting score – 4.6 (on a 5-point scale).


Ripe cherries, removed with stalks, tolerate transportation well

According to the results of biochemical studies, the pulp contains 15.3% dry matter, including:

Nutrients and beneficial substancesAmount per 100 g of raw product
Sahara12.8-14 g
Acids0.9-1.5 g
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)8-10 mg

Table variety: the crop is intended primarily for fresh consumption.

The fruit of a cherry is called a drupe. It has a juicy pericarp and one hard seed inside.

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