When and how to plant onions before winter in 2022 according to the lunar calendar

Why plant onions before winter?

Autumn planting of onions in winter is gaining increasing popularity among gardeners. When planted correctly, planting material tolerates low winter temperatures well and after the end of winter pleases with friendly shoots. By observing the correct timing for autumn planting, you can achieve the following benefits:

the bulbs quickly adapt to the new place of growth and form strong roots during the winter months;
Onions planted before winter sprout several weeks earlier. This allows the crop to better absorb the required amount of moisture;
winter crops planted in autumn are resistant to many fungal infections and are less likely to be attacked by pests;
onions reach larger sizes than when planted in spring;
productivity increases, and the harvested crop is stored longer.

NOTE! There is no need to plant too large seedlings before winter. This can cause the winter crop to develop shoots after the winter months are over.

Dates for planting onion sets

The main factor determining the time of planting onions before winter is that the set should have enough time to take root, but it should not germinate. If it shoots a green arrow, the future harvest may not work out, because the sprouted onion will simply die in the winter.

In Russia, it is customary to plant winter onions from October and throughout November, specifying these dates based on the specific climatic conditions of the growing region. Experts recommend doing this about 30 days before the onset of stable frosty weather.

The optimal period is determined by the range of daily temperatures: from -3°C at night to 0-+5°C during the day. It is at these temperatures that the soil remains slightly warm - approximately +3-4 C, at this temperature the seed will be able to take root, but it will be too cold for it to grow.

Important! Long-term forecasts should also be taken into account, especially in regions with unstable winter temperatures.

What varieties of onions can be planted before winter?

When planting winter onions, it is necessary not only to select favorable days according to the lunar calendar, but also to select the right variety.

Not all onion varieties can tolerate low temperatures. For planting before winter, it is recommended to give preference to the following winter varieties:

Orion;
Timiryazevsky;
Carmen;
Elan;
Strigunovsky;
Russian size;
Red salad;
Hercules.

All varieties of winter onions can be used for winter planting. A special feature of the varieties is that the planting material is not damaged by frost and retains its properties throughout the winter period.

Varieties

Not every variety is suitable for planting winter onions, even if you choose one that is zoned in the area or a set grown from seed material. Select from varieties that have been selected for short and medium-short daylight hours.

Winter onion varieties must meet the following requirements:

tolerate frost and temperature changes well;
maximize the germination of planting material;
actively develop in spring;
form a healthy elastic bulb.

We propose to study winter varieties, most often grown using the winter sowing method.

Ruby, early type, Donetsk selection. The growing season is 75-85 days. Experienced vegetable growers receive from 1 m2 to 3 kg of bulbs with a light purple color. The weight of the bulb is up to 80 g, it has high shelf life;
Robin, red high-yielding onion. The variety is a hybrid, with powerful roots, thanks to which it tolerates dry soil and cold weather well. Used for planting in southern latitudes;
Siberian annual. The early-ripening variety is often used by summer residents when planting onions before winter in the Urals. The growing season is from 60 to 70 days. The yellow bulbs have many feathers. Siberian annual is resistant to bolting. Harvesting - from 1 m2 to 4.5 kg;
Muzona, mid-early variety. Ripening from sets, growing season – 110 days. The weight of the white, round, dense bulb is 90-130 g. High cold resistance, but storage time is 60 days;
Lugansk. Medium to late ripening. The bulbs have a pungent taste, are yellow-brown in color, and weigh up to 160 grams. Good shelf life and resistance to cold;
Buran, a universal, late variety of Ukrainian selection. The yellow bulb is large and dense, weighing up to 120 grams. Buran has excellent keeping quality and high yields. Of the minuses - susceptible to peronosporosis;
Tamara F1. A long-storable hybrid variety, the bulb is dense, with a semi-sharp taste. With proper agricultural technology, productivity increases from 1 m2 to 5 kg. High resistance to onion diseases;
Black Prince, dark purple bulbs from Russian breeders. The semi-sharp variety has excellent keeping quality;
Riesen Stuttgarten. A variety of German breeders, high shelf life, dense bulbs, golden with a brown tint, spicy in taste. The disadvantages are low resistance to powdery mildew and fungal diseases;
Panther F1. Of the onion varieties, a hybrid obtained by Japanese breeders is also used for planting before winter. Frost-resistant Panther F1 - does not freeze at -30 degrees. At the same time, it does not form an arrow.

How to choose the right time for autumn planting onions

The timing of planting winter onions in the fall may differ depending on the region in which the summer resident lives. Experts advise adhering to the following recommendations:

Leningrad region. Autumn planting of sets is carried out in early October;
Ural and Siberia. It must be planted here no later than the end of September;
Middle lane. The best time to plant winter onions is in early October;
Southern regions. In warm regions, autumn planting of winter onions can be carried out until November.

If it is difficult to choose the period yourself, then you can determine favorable days according to the lunar calendar.

Planting onions in Siberia and the Urals

In cold regions, which include Siberia and the Urals, the attitude towards winter planting of onions has been cautious for quite some time, since onions are not particularly winter-hardy crops. However, as a result of the work of breeders, there is currently a sufficient number of zoned varieties of winter onions that produce an early, abundant harvest. However, you should always pay attention to the winter hardiness of the variety; the success of autumn planting of onions depends on this.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account that seedlings are planted in the Urals earlier than, for example, in regions with a milder climate: planting begins in September, and this process is completed by mid-October.

Winter onions are planted in moist soil, and this moisture must be maintained until the first frost. When cold weather sets in, the plantings are thoroughly mulched. When frosty weather sets in, it is necessary to cover the plantings with covering materials and take care of protection from the winds that characterize Ural winters. Experienced gardeners recommend using spunbond as a covering material - it is lightweight, retains heat well, and allows moisture to pass through.

As for planting onions in the fall in Siberia, you should carefully determine the timing - until mid-October, choose varieties that are highly winter-hardy, and carefully mulch and cover the beds.

Similar to the Ural region, soil moisture during planting and maintaining it until cold weather remains relevant.

When to plant onions before winter in 2022 according to the lunar calendar, favorable days

The lunar calendar contains recommendations for choosing the most suitable period for autumn planting.

In addition to periods suitable for autumn planting, the lunar calendar also indicates dates on which any planting work should not be carried out.

Favorable dates for planting winter onions according to the lunar calendar include:

September - 1, 2, 6-13, 16, 19, 24-27;
October - 8-13, 16-19, 26, 27, 31;
November - 2, 6-11, 17, 18, 24, 29, 30.

Experts advise planting winter seedlings on the waning moon. It is believed that this period is the most appropriate for autumn planting of winter onions. But even in the growing phase there are a number of suitable days.

However, it is necessary to take into account not only the recommendations of the lunar calendar, but also weather conditions. If the weather is warm, plant a few weeks later in the fall to prevent winter onions from germinating prematurely.

NOTE ! Favorable days according to the lunar calendar are only a recommendation for planting in the fall. First of all, you need to monitor weather conditions and focus on them.

Caring for crops in autumn and spring

Autumn care for onion sets simply comes down to timely insulation of the plantings before the onset of frost. In the spring there is more work, although winter onions are much more resistant to both diseases and pest attacks.

As soon as the snow begins to melt, all mulch and branches must be removed from the onion plantings, as they will impede the access of heat to the bulbs.

Since onions begin to grow under the snow, already in the first warm days it will be possible to see whether the bed needs adjustment, and, if necessary, replant the seedlings after soaking them.

Spring weeding is necessary for onions in any case, but it is much easier to do than with spring sowing: onions grow rapidly, weeds lag behind them, and it is easier to remove them: there is no danger of confusing already strong onion feathers and weed seedlings.

Watering of onion plantings is carried out as needed, which is clearly indicated by the plant itself: the green feathers begin to bend. In a wet spring, watering is rarely necessary. But if there is no rain for more than 5 days, it will be necessary to water the onion plantings every 3-4 days.

The first feeding is carried out when the onion leaves are still light. Add rotted manure or bird droppings (a glass to a bucket of water) and urea (a tablespoon). This solution is distributed at the rate of three liters per square meter of onion planting.

The second, with the addition of nitrophoska, is carried out two weeks later. The third feeding with superphosphate is done when the bulbs reach 3-4 centimeters in diameter.

Important! Feeding onions with fresh manure creates a loose turnip that will not be stored for long.

When the onion greens reach 15-18 centimeters in height, antifungal treatment is carried out with copper-containing preparations with the addition of liquid soap.

Winter onions are not afraid of their “personal” pest - the onion fly, but it would be advisable to plant marigolds or calendula along the edges of the beds; they repel this and other pests with their aroma, which helps preserve the harvest.

How to plant onions correctly before winter, planting patterns

Planting crops before winter should follow certain patterns.

Scheme of autumn planting on the head

in the prepared area you need to make holes or grooves 6 cm deep;
the distance between the grooves is at least 20 cm;
large bulbs are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other;
small bulbs should be planted at a distance of 8 cm.

The top of the beds should be sprinkled with soil and compacted a little.

Autumn planting scheme for small onions

The following scheme can also be used:

carefully dig up the future bed and level it with a rake;
make holes 4 cm deep;
using small planting material, plant it in increments of 5 cm;
sprinkle with soil and tamp down a little.

This scheme is most often used for growing crops by feather.

Planting winter onions

After what crop to plant?

Often, not knowing how to plant onions, gardeners make mistakes that lead to low yields. All grains except oats, corn, beets, mustard, rapeseed, phacelia, peas, beans, vetch, tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers and any cabbage are considered good predecessors for onions.

Cucumbers: diseases and their treatment

To avoid nematode infestation on onions, do not plant them after beans, potatoes, parsley, celery, alfalfa and red clover.

You can grow winter onions as a second harvest after harvesting rapeseed, winter barley, beans, peas, radishes, carrots and table beets, if you managed to harvest the first harvest before the third decade of July. The question is often asked whether it is possible to plant onions after onions. Onions can be grown in one place for no more than two years; the next time onions in this area, as well as in the area where garlic grew, can be planted no earlier than four years later.

In the photo: Winter onion harvest

Preparing for landing

Onion planting material is divided into oatmeal (onions with a diameter of less than 1 cm), sets (onion diameter from 1 to 3 cm) or onion selection - onions larger than 3 cm. If you are planting onions for greens, it is better to use a selection, since large onions are more common goes to the arrow, and small sets are planted to produce turnip bulbs. Therefore, sort the seed before planting in the ground, separating small sets from larger samples; do not cut off the necks of the bulbs.

Professionals recommend sets and wild oats specifically for winter planting, since they can dry out during winter storage indoors, and if they are planted in the ground, they will produce large bulbs next year.

A guide to sowing carrots before winter! Be the first to harvest!

Soil for onions

One of the components of successful cultivation of winter onions is the correct choice of site. Where to plant onions to create optimal conditions for its growth and development? The soil for onions should be light - well-drained humus-sandy soils or humus loam on a southern or southwestern slope, protected from the wind by tall plants, are most suitable. Onions have a weak root system, so they need fertile soil. The most wonderful onions grow on silt deposits in warm river valleys.

Before planting, the soil must be dug up in advance with humus (5-6 kg per m²) and mineral fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g of potassium salt and 20-25 g of superphosphate per m². Instead of mineral fertilizers, you can apply ecophosphate at the same rate. Before planting, it is advisable to scatter ash over the area at a rate of 10 g per m².

Arugula: growing in the garden and on the windowsill

Planting onion sets before winter

How to plant onions correctly? Level and compact the surface of the area, make grooves in the soil about 5 cm deep at a distance of about 15-20 cm from each other. Place dry small seedlings along the grooves every 5-7 cm, cover with dry soil and tamp it down lightly. There is no need to water winter onions after planting - you can moisten the area after ten days if there is no rain.

When frosts come, mulch the area with winter onions with dry leaves, spruce branches, pine needles, and press the cover with branches on top so that it does not get blown away by the wind. If a cold and snowless winter is expected, you can cover the area with mulch on top of it with film. In snowy winters you won't need film.

Tips for planting spring garlic - the harvest will be IN!

Planting onions, which are grown exclusively for their greens, is no different from planting onions, but before planting, the necks of shallots are cut off and then the bulbs are kept for 24 hours in water at a temperature of about 30 ºC.

Care after planting in autumn

Planting and caring for onions in open ground is simple and easy. As soon as the soil begins to warm up in the spring, remove the film from the winter onions, and after a week, remove the mulch, sprinkle the area with ash at the rate of 10 g per m², and loosen the soil. If you remove the cover too late, the onions may get wet under the film, and the mulch will delay the passage of sprouts through the soil.

It is advisable to loosen the soil after each rain or watering, while simultaneously freeing the area from weeds. The formation of four leaves at the seedlings indicates that the bulb has begun to form, which means that it is time to apply a second feeding, but before that, thin out the onion if it is growing too densely. The plucked plants can be eaten. As a second feeding, 15-20 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium fertilizer are added per 1 m² of planting, and it is better to first dissolve the superphosphate granules and ash in a solution of fermented herbs.

Instead of mineral fertilizers, you can add liquid chicken manure. If the spring is wet, the onions are watered infrequently, but if it is hot and dry, you will have to water them twice a week.

To prevent your crop from being destroyed by the onion fly, plant marigolds or calendula around the perimeter of the onion plot - this is guaranteed to save you from trouble. Winter onions ripen about a month earlier than those planted in the spring.

How to plan planting in the garden

In the photo: Growing onions in open ground

What to put in the hole when planting onions in the fall before winter, what fertilizers to use?

Winter seedlings should be planted in autumn in pre-prepared soil.

Before planting, you need to add humus to the future bed. During the autumn planting process, an additional pinch of wood ash is required to be placed in the hole.

This fertilizing will improve the survival rate of the crop and protect it from pests.

Fertilizers are not actively used in the fall. And after the end of the winter cold, summer residents are advised to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This fertilizer accelerates growth and increases the immunity of the crop.

Landing Features

For winter cultivation, varieties with resistance to low temperatures are used. Plantings under snow should have at least 5–7 leaves so that the bulbs can wait out a long period of hibernation.

To protect from early frosts, the area is covered. To reduce crop losses, winter onion plantings are increased by about 1/10.

Processing onions before planting

To prevent onions from being damaged during the long winter months, they must be properly processed. Treatment can be carried out with the following drugs:

potassium permanganate;
Aktara;
saline solution

It is recommended to soak with potassium permanganate and Aktara for 15 minutes. The working mixture is prepared according to the instructions.

To treat with salt, you need to prepare a solution by dissolving 1 tablespoon in a liter of water. Winter material should be placed in the resulting mixture for 30 minutes and only then planted in the ground.

Preparing the soil for planting

Beds for winter planting of onions are usually prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance, taking into account soil shrinkage. The area for onions should be well illuminated by the sun and ventilated. The soil should be loose, light, with a neutral reaction.

Important! Onions do not like water retention, so the beds for planting them should not be flooded with melt water.

Cucumbers, legumes or nightshades - tomatoes, potatoes - are considered the optimal predecessors of onions.

The soil for planting onions is deeply loosened; it is better to do this with a pitchfork. Then the weed roots are removed. After this, the soil is disinfected, usually with copper sulfate - 1 tablespoon of powder per bucket of water. The solution consumption for disinfection is 2 liters per square meter.

The next stage is the application of fertilizers. Per square meter of future plantings, add 3 kilograms of humus with two tablespoons of superphosphate. You can use humus and compost mixed with ash. If it is difficult to get them, you can replace them with mineral fertilizers: 20 grams of phosphorus and 20 g of potash per square meter or 30 grams of ecophosphate.

The nutrient mixture is thoroughly mixed with the soil, the surface of the beds is leveled, and also slightly compacted. There is no need to water the beds.

Important! The optimal height of onion beds is 18-20 centimeters. On lower bulbs there is a risk of damping off; on higher ones they can freeze.

Planting onions on a head before winter

To get large bulbs, it is recommended to plant onions in the fall according to the following algorithm:

in the prepared area, make holes or grooves up to 6-7 cm deep;
large specimens are used, which are planted in increments of 15 cm;
It is necessary to plant with the bottom down and sprinkle with soil;
the area is compacted a little and covered with mulch;
with the end of the winter period, the shelter is removed. The beds must be fertilized with complex fertilizer;
After the weather returns to normal, the beds need to be watered every 7-8 days.

As experienced summer residents note, onions planted before winter produce large heads that are stored for a long time without loss of varietal characteristics and taste.

Flaws

Sowing for the winter has some disadvantages:

it is difficult to say when the optimal time for planting occurs;
it is imperative to cover the crops with insulating material;
The planting rate should be increased by 15%; during the winter, some of the bulbs may die.

Gardening Tips and Tricks

In the fall, you need to plant onions, following the following advice from experienced summer residents:

Before planting a crop, it is worth sorting the planting material. Carefully inspect the seedlings and remove damaged specimens and those with traces of rot;
In order to insulate the beds, you can use spruce branches. The branches not only retain heat, but also retain snow;
Do not cover the area with film. In order to maintain the required temperature, mulch from sawdust or humus is used. Fallen leaves are also often used as mulch;
It is not recommended to plant nigella in the fall. The material must be sown in early spring so that the seedlings have time to ripen in the fall.

Summer residents recommend preparing the site several weeks before planting. This is necessary so that the soil has time to settle.

To reduce the risk of pests, crop rotation must be observed in the fall. For example, you should not plant sets in an area where garlic was previously planted.

NOTE! In spring, it is recommended to water the beds with warm water. Watering with cold liquid may cause slow growth.

Secrets of successful landing

According to the lunar calendar for 2022, you can see when to plant onions in the fall before winter in the Leningrad region. You also need to learn about the peculiarities of landing in the region. Experienced summer residents share their secrets; beginners will definitely find them useful.

So, when planting seedlings, you must follow the following rules:

To prevent the mulch from flying away, you need to lay spruce branches on top of it. With the arrival of spring, the shelter should be removed. If this is not done, the bed will begin to warm up and the seedlings will emerge late.
At the end of the planting work, the bed must be mulched. Hay, foliage, and bean leaves are suitable for this. But polyethylene is something that cannot be used.
It is undesirable to choose sawdust or peat as mulch. It will be quite difficult to remove them from the garden.
As soon as snow falls, the crops should be covered with insulation. In spring, moisture should not stagnate, otherwise the bulbs will rot.
In order for the onions to sprout together, the mulch must be removed after the snow melts.

Onions are a favorite crop of summer residents; they are sown everywhere. If you follow planting dates and look at the lunar calendar more often, you will soon be able to reap a good harvest.

Common mistakes

When planting seedlings before winter, summer residents often make mistakes that can have a detrimental effect on the yield. The most common ones include:

Summer residents remove their shelter too early. Even if the winter period has come to an end, the shelter from the site should be removed only after the weather returns to normal. Otherwise, night frosts can damage young shoots;
improper distribution of fertilizers in autumn. Many summer residents use nitrogen fertilizers in the fall. This can have a detrimental effect on the plant. The bulbs begin to form young shoots late in the fall. As a result, the planting material does not tolerate winter;
the bulbs are not deepened. In order to get a large harvest, it is very important to maintain depth when planting in autumn. Planting too deep will cause the bulbs to rot. Superficial, on the contrary, often leads to the death of the material.

The inexperience of summer residents and non-compliance with agrotechnical advice often reduces yields and can lead to the death of planting material.

Successful periods for planting

The crop is grown both for feathers and for the purpose of producing turnips. To do this, you need to plant small bulbs (sets) or seeds. The second planting option involves sowing the plant directly into the ground; you can also sow it in separate containers for seedlings.

Onions are a strong crop; the seeds can withstand from +1 to +5 °C, but the seedlings of some varieties are considered frost-resistant. These varieties can withstand night frosts down to -3 °C. However, during prolonged frosts, plants may die. Therefore, the best time for planting is the end of September.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to plant onions in the shade?

A properly prepared site is of great importance for crop yield. The area should be well lit by the sun. Otherwise, with the end of winter, the crop will not be able to produce young shoots. It should also be noted that in snowy regions, in the shade, snow can lie until the end of spring.

Will shoots appear if the autumn mulch is not removed?

Mulch is necessary to protect the plantings from freezing. However, in the spring the mulch is removed. If this is not done in a timely manner, sprouts will appear later. Also, if the sprouts grow large enough, it is difficult to remove the mulch without damaging the greenery.

What is “nigella” and how to plant it

Seeds obtained from bulblets (umbrellas) on peduncles (arrows) are called nigella. For independent cultivation of nigella, the largest heads (a few pieces are enough) with pronounced characteristics of the variety are selected. In early spring or late autumn, plant onions in a dry and sunny place and cover with mulch. In mid-summer, flower stalks with umbrellas consisting of small black seeds appear. The bulbs are covered with gauze, wait for ripening and collect the seeds. But such feats are needed when the variety is rare and its seeds cannot be purchased.

You can grow the material for planting onions yourself

The umbrellas of ordinary onions are collected and dried in the shade or indoors for 2-3 weeks. The main problem is that the quality of the seeds is quickly lost. Within a year, regardless of the planting depth, only half of the collected material will sprout, and later even less.

To avoid such troubles, you can buy seeds, but be sure to check the material for germination and disinfect it. Suitable for disinfection:

weak (pink) solution of manganese (0.5 hours);
infusion of ash (1 tbsp per 1 liter of water), incubated for about 4 hours.

The nigella is placed in a bag and immersed in the solution. Then they are germinated (wet cloth, temperature 22°C). If the soil is sufficiently moist, then the germination process can be omitted, however, there is a danger that in this case the germination will be a little later.

Planting onions with seeds is possible in autumn and spring. It is quite difficult to plant such small grains, so it is recommended to stick the seeds on a strip of thin paper in increments of 5-7 cm. This will make the work easier and avoid wasting time on thinning. The depth is calculated so that 1-2 cm remains to the soil surface.

Before planting onion seeds, the soil is fertilized with superphosphate and calcium chloride (20-30 g per sq. m). Before you start planting for the winter, add another 50-60 g per square meter. m of nitrophoska and 20 g of urea and superphosphate, you can add another 5-10 g of calcium sulfate or purchase a ready-made set of chemicals. Experts do not recommend fertilizing the beds with manure both in spring and autumn, since as a result the plant produces a large mass of greenery, but a loose head, unsuitable for long-term storage.

You can plant the seeds in rows (20 cm x 5 cm) or sow scattered. In the second case, the sowing will be a little smaller, but the planting space will be saved. The depth is determined taking into account the fact that after planting the bed is slightly rolled down from above. In spring, the bed with seeds is regularly moistened and, if necessary, carefully loosened. After emergence:

to obtain annual onions, the plants are thinned out first by 2 cm, and after 20 days by 6 cm;
to obtain seedlings, the density of the seedlings is left a little denser so that the result does not turn out too large.

20 days before harvesting, stop watering, wait for the tops to die down, and harvest.

Landing technology

The productivity of winter crops depends both on the correctly selected variety and on agricultural technology. The soil must be fertile enough for the bulbs to take root. Soil poor in nutrients will not allow the plant root system to form, and the crop will die.

Crop rotation

Proper crop rotation will allow you to get a bountiful harvest and protect the soil from pests and diseases. Properly selected precursors will maintain a certain acidity of the soil.

Onions are planted after:

cucumbers;
legumes: peas, beans;
rapeseed;
beets;
mustard;
pumpkins;
zucchini;
tomatoes.

Bad predecessors: spring onions, any types of garlic, radishes, rutabaga, cabbage, celery, carrots, parsley, parsnips. These crops greatly deplete the soil, especially of nitrogen and phosphorus, which are necessary for the formation of the root system and leaves.

Important! After potatoes, alfalfa, and clover, there is a high risk of infection with nematodes.

Preparing the bed

Choose a site that is protected from the winds, well-lit, where in the spring the snow quickly melts and the melt water does not stagnate. The soil should be loose with a neutral acid-base balance. After harvesting the predecessor crop, the soil is enriched with mineral and organic fertilizers, preferably at the time of the first digging.

For this use:

humus or compost (one bucket per 1 m2 of soil);
superphosphate (2 tbsp per 1 m2) or wood ash (100 g per 1 m2);
urea (1 tbsp per 1 m2).

It is pointless to add pure manure, since it will rot only in the spring and cause organic burns to the crops.

Ground chalk or lime is additionally added to acidic soil to alkalize it.

Before sowing, all remnants of other crops and weeds are removed from the beds: the larvae and pupae of harmful insects remain on them. The area is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate.

The soil is dug up to a depth of at least 20–25 cm and left unleveled to ensure air flow. On such soil, various pests quickly die under the influence of low temperatures.

Preparing the bulbs

To obtain a good harvest, the seed material is sorted. Soft, damaged, dried specimens with signs of disease are rejected. Not only will they not germinate, but they will provoke the appearance of diseases.

Bulbs are calibrated by size:

wild oatmeal - up to 1 cm;
sevok - 1-2 cm;
samples - more than 3 cm.

Sets are more suitable for spring planting. Before winter, wild oats are used: they grow more slowly, but take root faster. Large specimens are planted only to obtain early greenery.

Two weeks before being buried in the beds, selected and calibrated onions are laid out in one layer in a well-lit and warmed place. This will allow the root system to form faster, increase the survival rate and resistance of the crop to adverse weather conditions both in autumn and spring.

Important! When planting in winter, the feathers of vegetables are not trimmed.

The seed material is disinfected in one of the following products:

saline solution (1 tbsp table salt per 1 liter of boiled water at room temperature) - 5 minutes;
copper sulfate (1 tbsp per 1 liter of boiled water) - 5 minutes;
weak pink solution of potassium permanganate - 3-5 minutes.

The processed bulbs are laid out on gauze, paper or cotton cloth and dried for one day. Disinfected material is planted as soon as possible to avoid reintroducing pathogens.

Experienced vegetable growers additionally treat wild oatmeal with antifungal drugs (for example, Fitosporin-M).

Preparing onions for planting

To protect yourself and prevent onions from bolting in the spring, although the likelihood of this is low, the bulbs are warmed up before planting. Before planting, they must be immersed in warm (60º) water for 2-3 minutes. This is a proven method, safe, and guaranteed not to give arrows to the bow.

Immediately before planting, it is recommended to soak the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, saline solution, phytosporin, etc. If you decide to soak in phytosporin, do not mix it with other solutions, since it is a biological product. Of course, disinfection won’t hurt, but many people plant dry planting material. On the one hand, soaked onions will sprout roots and take root faster, but on the other hand, autumn is unpredictable, frosts can come unexpectedly. But dry sevka will do nothing.