Do raspberries like acidic or alkaline soil? Why are raspberries sour: reasons, what to do?

Do raspberries like acidic or alkaline soil when growing? Look for answers in the article.

Raspberries are planted for their sweet, tasty berries, the aroma of which is reminiscent of childhood. In order for the shrub to bear fruit well, it is necessary to carefully select the site for planting. The health, taste of berries and the life expectancy of raspberries depend on the correct composition of the soil.

Read another article on our website on the topic: “What can be planted next to what in a vegetable garden, in a greenhouse?” .

If a raspberry seedling takes root well in the ground, then caring for an adult bush will be unpretentious. It is important that the berries in the raspberry garden are sweet. What does this depend on? And is it possible to make sour raspberries sweet? Find answers to these and other questions in the article below. Read on.

Do raspberries like acidic or alkaline soil?

Before planting planting material, the gardener must determine the acidity of the soil in the area. Optimal values ​​for raspberries usually do not exceed 6.5 Ph . If the measuring instruments show below 5.7 Ph , then the quality of the berries will differ from that declared by the manufacturer for the worse.

• Raspberries like acidic soil rather than alkaline soil.

The soil is considered acidic when the value is less than 7 Ph . A higher Ph indicates that the soil is acidic. These indicators are suitable for planting bushes.

Methods for soil acidification

There are several ways to make the soil acidic. Which substance (material) to use as an acidifier depends on a number of factors:

Let's look at the most effective options.

Organic materials

The following organic materials give an acidic reaction:

Organics are suitable for acidifying loose, well-aerated, permeable substrates. As practice shows, it acidifies the soil slowly as it decomposes, but it starts this process for a long period. An additional advantage is the preservation of a loose structure, enrichment with humus and mineral nutrients. Adding 10 kg of humus or 3 kg of fresh manure per 1 m² increases the acidity per pH unit.

Advice! To use organic matter effectively, it should be placed in the root zone of the plant, and not scattered around the site. For planting, prepare an acidic substrate, which is placed in the hole. Subsequently, organic materials are used to mulch the tree trunk circle.

This method is not suitable if you need to achieve quick results.

Mineral compounds

Acidification of heavy clay soils is more effective with the help of minerals.

Acid solutions

Acid solutions are used if you need quick results.

Green manure

Once the acid-base balance is adjusted to the needs of the crop, it must be maintained in optimal condition. In this case, the pH is adjusted with acidic organic fertilizers. A good option is to plant green manure that acidifies the soil. Incorporation of green fertilizer into the soil and rotting of the root system provides plants with available nitrogen and acts as a light acidifier. Such green manures include white mustard, rapeseed, oats, colza; legumes such as lupine, soybean, and vetch are effective in maintaining pH balance.

Source

How to determine soil acidity?

There are several ways to test the quality of soil and determine its acidity. One of them is the use of a Ph meter , an indispensable device for summer residents. The design of the device is simple:

• This is a sensor with two or one metal stick.
• The probe is stuck into the soil and the switch is adjusted.
• According to standard instructions, when measuring acidity, there should be no foreign objects in the soil sample.
• Typically, it takes about a minute for the sensor to determine the Ph level .

Additional functions of the device allow you to also check soil moisture to understand whether the plant needs to be watered right now. If it is not possible to purchase an electronic meter, then you can also determine the acidity of the soil on your own. To do this, you need to find out which plants like to grow at different Ph levels .

Prefer acidic soil:

• Sedge
• Horse sorrel
• Veronica
• Ivan da Marya
• Horsetail
• Moss
• Plantain
• Buttercup
• Tricolor violet

In a place where these types of herbs grow abundantly, you can safely plant raspberries.

Acidity level, methods of determination

The range of plant tolerance to soil pH is very diverse. Some are very sensitive to even the slightest changes in acidity, others do better in alkaline soils. One thing is certain: soils with extreme reactions are not conducive to growing any plants.

Determining the pH of the soil is not easy, but it is necessary in order to obtain maximum yields and properly use the soil's potential. Electrometric or colorimetric methods can be used for this purpose.

Did you know? Raspberries are a plant that is grown in different climatic zones and has hundreds of different varieties. There are bushes with yellow, black and red fruits, with thorns and without thorns.

A neutral pH of 6.6 to 7.2 is suitable for most plants. Acidic soils have a lower value, and we can talk about a very acidic reaction, starting from a value of 4.5. An alkaline reaction is considered if the acidity is above 7.2; usually such indicators occur when the soil contains carbonate elements.

Tester device

Analysis using a special device is carried out by measuring the difference in indicators (actual and reference). The device consists of a measuring electrode (for immersion in the ground) and a screen on which the result of the measurement is displayed.

Litmus paper

The colorimetric method consists of comparing the color of a soil solution in combination with a suitable indicator on a reference color scale, each color of which has its own meaning. To do this, a handful of soil is mixed with a small amount of water, and litmus paper is dipped into the resulting solution. When the control segment changes color, the color is compared with the acidity palette.

However, this method may not be very accurate, and if clarification is necessary, it is worth contacting a specialized laboratory where they will conduct a chemical analysis of the soil composition.

Natural indicator

Not all plants tolerate even small deviations in pH value from the neutral level. There are also those that thrive only in an acidic or alkaline environment; their presence in the garden bed can help the gardener determine the approximate level of soil acidification.

Plants of indicative acidity include : pansies, field clover, horsetail, juniper, cornflower, field daisies, etc. Acidic soils are also an ideal place for swamps; moss and ferns can often be found on them. You cannot see any of these plants in alkaline soil because they need a high concentration of hydrogen ions. In places where the pH is greater than 7.2, nettle, white nettle, field grass, poppy, spurge and St. John's wort develop well.

Preparing land for a raspberry garden: which place to choose?

Tasty and sweet raspberries grow in the right place.
For the future raspberry garden, the territory is selected according to several parameters. Preparing the land for planting raspberries begins with choosing a suitable area. The site is determined by several parameters:

• Daylight intensity
• Wind
• Suitable soil parameters
• Groundwater
• Dirt and dust from the street
• Other plants that are found on the site

Raspberry growers have the highest requirements for lighting. Which place to choose for landing?

• In nature, raspberries love to grow at the edge of the forest, because they need partial shade on one side and sunlight on the other.
• In the middle zone, it is recommended to plant raspberries on the western side of the site.
• The eastern part, which faces southwest, is perfect.
• If you plan to plant raspberries along a fence, then it should be on the south side of the garden or garden.
• This option is optimal for windy areas. The sun's rays are not direct, but evenly illuminate the area.

Raspberries do not like strong gusts of wind, but there are varieties that tolerate such climatic conditions well. Raspberries are planted along the fence so that the branches of the bush do not break. If the weather permits, it is not necessary to plant bushes near the fence.

Raspberries should not grow near the road. The berries are not washed before consumption - they are soft and very easy to crush. High beds are made if the groundwater is located above one and a half meters.

Methods for planting raspberry bushes

There are several different options for planting raspberry bushes.

Bush

The bush method is most often used by gardeners and summer residents; it involves planting raspberry bushes in holes. In this case, preliminary preparation of the site is not necessary; all fertilizers are applied directly at the time of planting. The method is convenient when there is no room for an extensive raspberry patch, but it is planned to plant several bushes in different places.

The bush method of planting raspberries is the most common

The sequence of work is as follows:

1. The site is being marked. About 1.5–2 m are left between rows, and 0.7–0.9 m between neighboring plants.
2. Holes are dug with a diameter of 0.5–0.6 m and a depth of 0.5 m.
3. Pour a bucket of humus (compost), superphosphate (30–35 g), and potassium salt (20–25 g) into the bottom of the hole. All components are mixed well with the top layer of fertile soil.
4. A seedling is placed in the center of the hole. The root system is carefully straightened and distributed throughout the entire space of the hole. In order for the soil to evenly fill the free space between the roots, the bush needs to be lifted several times and shaken a little while filling the hole.
5. The filled hole is compacted and a depression is made around the entire perimeter for watering. The growth point should be at ground level.
6. Water generously.
7. Mulch with sawdust, grass clippings, peat, straw, etc.

With the bush method, a raspberry seedling is planted in a hole

It is not recommended to use poorly rotted manure, as it attracts cockchafers and mole crickets.

Video: the process of planting a raspberry seedling

Trench

The option of landing in a trench is considered more labor-intensive and time-consuming. Most often it is used for industrial cultivation of berries in large volumes. Its main advantage is that the raspberry plant is fertilized evenly from the very beginning. Therefore, the quality of fruiting will be higher, the yield will increase several times.

Raspberries planted in trenches are fertilized more evenly

The planting process consists of the following steps:

1. Marking is carried out on the selected area. Drive pegs into the corners and stretch a rope or cord over them.
2. Using a stretched cord, a trench is dug 0.4–0.5 m deep and about 0.5 m wide.
3. At least 1.2 m is left between adjacent trenches.
4. A 10 cm thick nutrient layer of dry leaves, mown grass, tops, etc. is placed at the bottom of the ditch.
5. At least 10 cm of fertile garden soil or peat is poured on top of the organic matter.
6. Seedlings are placed on top at intervals of 0.4 m.
7. The ditch is successively covered with earth, carefully holding the plants.
8. The soil is compacted and watered.

A trench is dug according to the markings

It is more convenient to work together with a partner. One person holds the bush vertically by weight, and the other fills the trench with earth.

Video: trench method of planting raspberries

Container

For areas with a small area, some gardeners practice planting raspberry bushes in various containers without a bottom. This can be a large plastic bottle (without a neck), a metal bucket or barrel, a spacious saucepan and other old containers with a diameter of 0.45–0.5 m and a height of at least 0.5–0.6 m. The container is buried in the ground, then filled with fertilized fertile soil mixture.

Planting raspberries in containers is especially suitable for small areas

The walls of the vessel prevent the uncontrolled growth of shoots. When watering and liquid fertilizing, the nutritious moisture remains inside and does not spread around.

In tires

An original and interesting option for the container planting method is planting in old car tires, which also prevent the raspberries from spreading beyond the designated area. Large diameter tires from a truck or tractor are better suited.

You need to proceed as follows:

• dig a hole to a depth of approximately half the height of the tire;
• the sidewalls of the tire are cut off (optional);
• a tire is placed in the recess so that its edges are 10–15 cm above ground level;
• the internal volume of the tire is filled with a soil mixture of humus (garden compost), wood ash, garden soil and mineral fertilizers;
• Raspberry bushes (up to 3 pieces) are planted in the center;
• Water generously and mulch.

Raspberries planted in old car tires look very original

The tire beads retain moisture during watering and prevent liquid fertilizers from spilling.

The raspberry bush looks like a kind of berry flowerbed.

There are never any problems with finding landing containers, since any car enthusiast always has this stuff in abundance. At every tire shop, the sufferer will be happy to be provided with old tires. The fact is that recycling used tires costs money, so specialists are not averse to saving a little and at the same time getting rid of the trash.

Video: raspberries in old car tires

Tape

Planting with ribbons involves forming rows (strips) of raspberry bushes. With this method, individual plants are located closer to each other than with a bush method. They are placed at a distance of 0.3–0.5 m, while the row spacing is, on the contrary, wider - 1.5–2.5 m. With such dense planting, the strips are filled with shoots faster and the onset of full fruiting is accelerated.

When planting in strips, raspberries leave very wide row spacings.

Unlike the trench method, the tapes are usually made wider (from 0.4 to 1 m). In a dug trench, seedlings are placed in several rows (3–4). The productivity of such strips is much higher, but it is also more difficult to care for them.

On the trellis

Some tall varieties of raspberries can grow up to 3 m. To prevent the branches from falling, they must be tied up . Shoots require reliable support, because they can break from the wind or under the weight of ripening fruits. Most often, the stems are fixed on a trellis; it is recommended to build it simultaneously with the organization of the raspberry tree. This must be done before the leaves bloom, otherwise you may accidentally break off the emerging sprouts.

Raspberry shoots need to be provided with reliable support

This is done like this:

1. Along the edges of the row or trench, edge posts (wooden blocks, metal pipes, pins, etc.) are installed, about 1.8–2 m high.
2. Between them, intermediate supports are dug in every 4 m.
3. Reinforced twine or steel wire is pulled along the pillars at three levels (50, 100 and 150 cm).
4. Each shoot is tied to the lower horizontal brace using ropes, clothespins or other devices. They try to maintain approximately equal distances between adjacent branches.
5. As the stems grow, they are fixed higher.
6. The tops of the shoots are shortened to about 2 m or bent and tied to the upper horizontal line.

What can you plant next to raspberries?

The cultivation of the earthen area begins long before planting. First, they get rid of the weeds forever and plant the area with green manure. That is, “living” mulch. What can you plant next to raspberries?

• Oats
• Phacelia
• Clover
• Millet
• Barley
• Rye
• Lupine
• Nettle

Greens saturate the soil with essential nutrients and at the same time regulate them.

Mulching: increasing fertility

Fertile soil can always provide plants with important nutrients and water. Soil fertility and humus content are interrelated; the more organic matter, the greater the yield you can get. Natural organic fertilizers are especially effective. The best measure a gardener can take to make raspberry tree care easier and improve yields is to lay mulch.

This agronomic technique can be used everywhere, from vegetable gardens to berry and flower beds. Mulched plantings are healthier, have fewer weeds, and withstand drought better than bare soil beds. If everything is done correctly, this will allow the gardener to spend less time on watering, weeding, and pest control, and the raspberry bushes will constantly be fed with more and more portions of rotted organic matter.

Mulching rules:

1. Mulch is placed on already weeded soil in a thick enough layer to prevent the emergence of new weeds.
2. A layer of mulch 10 to 15 cm thick may be required to completely eliminate weeds, although 2 to 3 cm is usually sufficient in shady areas. If the gardener knows that the bed is filled with weed seeds or their perennial roots, a double layer method can be used to prevent weeds from germinating. mulching. Weeding is carried out, then abundant irrigation is carried out, after which newspaper is laid out between the plants (can be in several layers) and a layer of organic matter is placed on top of it.
3. Mulching material that retains moisture (such as wood chips) can slow down the heating of the raspberry root layer. Therefore, on remontant raspberry varieties that form berries on the current year’s stems, it is necessary to remove the top layer of organic coating in the spring for faster growth.

There are two main types of mulch: organic and inorganic. Organic includes previously living materials such as shredded leaves, straw, grass, compost, wood chips, bark, sawdust, pine needles and even paper. Inorganic types are black polyethylene and geotextiles (other non-woven materials).

Both types discourage weeds, but organic matter also improves the bed as it gradually decomposes. Inorganic mulches do not break down or enrich the soil, but can warm the substrate and radiate heat during a cold night.

Sapropel

Sapropel is a complex organic and mineral residue formed at the bottom of freshwater lakes from the remains of flora and fauna. The resulting substance contains a large amount of macro and microelements, vitamins, amino acids and other biologically active substances.

We can say that it contains almost all the most useful chemical elements from the periodic table. In addition, sapropel is rich in microflora and beneficial bacteria, so after proper preparation it can be used as a probiotic for plants or soil, which improves crop growth and also increases yield.

Did you know? Agriculture of the ancient Egyptians developed next to the river. The owners of land plots annually fertilized the land with silt, extracted from the bottom during the drying up of the Nile, thanks to which they received high yields.

Sapropel-based fertilizers are most often used as a long-term substance to improve the agrochemical properties of the soil and increase the productivity of plantings. They are unique because, after being added to the soil, they can remain active for up to 5 years.

Purchased soil

If the soil in the garden is rocky and infertile, the situation can be corrected with the help of purchased soil. Along the perimeter where it is planned to plant the raspberry tree, dig a hole (25–30 cm). The resulting wide and shallow hole is filled with soil purchased from gardening farms. It usually has a neutral or slightly acidic pH, essential minerals, and plenty of organic matter. The roots of raspberries lie shallow from the surface, so the depth of the fertile layer will be sufficient for the full growth of the crop.

In the northern regions, when setting up such a raspberry garden, there is no need to dig a pit; it can be successfully replaced by a wooden above-ground box in which fertile soil will be placed. Another advantage of a raised bed is the rapid warming of plant roots. In the south, it is not recommended to create raised beds, since in conditions of high air temperatures the substrate in the box will dry out quickly.

Earthworms

Due to their active life activity taking place in the soil, earthworms are very useful for agriculture: they increase the availability of nutrients, improve drainage and stabilize the soil structure, which helps to increase the productivity of plantings.

Important! Since earthworms do not like soil that is too acidic, alkaline, dry, wet, hot or cold, their presence is a good indicator of soil conditions suitable for plant growth.

Earthworms help improve the fertility of the soil, and their waste is a form of high-carbon fertilizer that feeds vegetation and reduces the stress they receive.

These invertebrates can lose 20% of their weight each day in mucus and casts, so they need moisture to stay alive. Ground cover plants reduce moisture evaporation, so it is advisable to sow the raspberry bed with green manure herbs.

The benefits of having earthworms in the garden bed:

1. Good soil structure - an earthworm collects soil particles together into water-resistant formations (casts) that can store moisture without dissipating it. Research has shown that earthworms, which leave casts on the surface of the earth, restore the topsoil.
2. Increased yield - Studies in New Zealand and Tasmania found that these invertebrates introduced into perennial grassland resulted in an initial increase in grass growth of 70–80%, with a long-term increase of 25%.
3. Increased organic matter - Earthworms feed on soil and dead or decaying plant matter, including straw, leaf litter and dead roots. They are the main agents in mixing surface residues with the soil, making them more accessible to decomposition by soil microorganisms.

Important! It is difficult for earthworms to move in highly compacted soil, so after rainfalls, movement around the garden should be minimal.

Fertilizers for raspberries

After the area is covered with a green carpet of mulch, the soil is plowed and up to ten kilograms of humus, manure or compost are added. Organic fertilizers are diluted with minerals - potassium, nitrogen . If you need to add limestone, then the procedure is carried out two years before planting the raspberries.

Raspberries require certain fertilizers at different times. You can understand that it’s time to add useful microelements to the soil based on the condition of the bush. In the absence of substances, shoot growth slows down. New leaves (compared to old ones) look small. The rich green color of the crown fades and acquires an unpleasant yellow or brown tint. Sometimes spots may appear. More details:

• Pale leaves indicate a lack of nitrogen, and overgrown shoots are the result of oversaturation of raspberries with nitrogen fertilizers. To prepare nitrogen fertilizer, gardeners use urea or ammonium nitrate.
• Potassium ensures raspberry normal growth of its leaves . The plant needs feeding if it is noticeable that the old leaves are curled, wrinkled and burnt. Fertilizers with potassium are scattered around the base of raspberry bushes. Proportions: 5 grams per sq.m.
• If there is not enough magnesium , then starting from the central part, the leaves turn yellow. The brightness of the taste of the berries disappears in both cases.
• Raspberries need phosphorus for proper growth of ovaries. It provides fruits with a high sugar content. Without enough phosphorus, berries lose their delicious taste, and yields decline sharply. Required proportions of nutrient mass: 10 grams per 1 liter of water .

Sometimes you can pamper raspberries with mixed types of fertilizers, which include all of the above microelements. This procedure maintains the health of the bushes. The full range of elements is contained in manure - bird, cow or horse . You can use humus or weed tincture - nettle or wheatgrass .

Soil moisture, control methods

Although the soil is mostly composed of dense particles, there are spaces in the form of pores between the formations containing oxygen and moisture. Ideal soil contains about 50% solids, 25% water and 25% air. Ground that remains wet for long periods of time loses air between formations and becomes compacted.

Did you know? English farmers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries often dug trenches in their gardens and filled them with broken pieces of ceramic tiles to drain wet areas. This drainage completely changed the local ecosystem over time.

Seedlings grow poorly in such substrates, as their roots require oxygen and moisture. Excess moisture causes loss of many beneficial bacteria and organisms that contribute to plant health.

A constantly wet bed can be brought to the desired condition by adding water-absorbing elements. They can be peat, sand or absorbent balls, which can be purchased at gardening stores. Frequent loosening of the bed also contributes to drainage, but when carrying out this procedure, the working person should be careful, since the shallow roots of the shrub are easily damaged by sharp garden tools.

Mistakes in preparing the soil before planting raspberries

Don't Make Mistakes When Growing Raspberries
Inexperienced gardeners prefer to grow raspberries because they believe they are easy to care for. In fact, this is a complex process and it begins with careful soil preparation. Here are the most common mistakes before boarding:

• No need to get rid of all insects

Why can’t you destroy earthworms on your property? They themselves loosen the soil for the raspberries, providing their roots with enough air. The waste that worms leave behind in the soil has additional benefits. They saturate the earth with minerals and beneficial bacteria. Ants, centipedes, flies and butterfly pupae are useful for raspberry soil.

• Better to use seeds

To reduce planting time, they often take not seeds, but a seedling. Raspberries grow in one place for up to ten years, so when transplanted, the roots quickly weaken and become diseased.

• Fertilize with manure in reasonable quantities

Rotted manure is necessary, but in reasonable quantities. Raspberries should not be planted directly in organic fertilizers. For feeding, use a liquid mass, one bucket for each bush. Raspberries do not need to fertilize with manure often, only after flowering.

• Plant several dozen bushes at once

Beginning gardeners often forget that raspberries are a perennial plant and make the grave mistake of planting just one bush. A standard raspberry garden can grow from ten to fifty bushes. If one dies, the other bushes will continue to delight the owner with delicious berries.

• Don't save space

Even if the garden is small, you should not plant raspberry bushes close to each other. During the harvest, it will be inconvenient to look for berries, since the raspberry forest will grow in continuous thickets. One bush requires 1.5 sq.m. Many people like to use the “checkerboard method” of planting so that each bush has good lighting. We must not forget about the limitations of the raspberry field area.

• The soil must be suitable for raspberries

In the entire garden there was no suitable soil for a raspberry plant? Don't give up on your idea! The soil can always be adjusted. For example, if the measuring instruments show too low acidity, then limestone or wood ash is added to the soil. Light soil is mixed with clay. The heavy composition is softened by peat and sand.

Features of preparing sandy and clay soil

Sandy (light) soils are airy and permeable, do not store water and nutrients well, and dry out quickly, so most plants cannot tolerate them. Sandstones are easy to recognize: when squeezed in the palm of your hand, the lump quickly disintegrates and does not leave dirty marks on the skin. You can try to improve sandy soil by adding well-rotted cattle manure, clay and leaf soil, compost or humus. It is preferable to apply in early spring, before the start of the growing season.

Organic matter will fertilize the sand, enriching it with humus and improving its air-water properties. There is no point in fertilizing sandstones with mineral fertilizers, because the nutrients they contain will quickly be washed into deeper layers, which not only does not improve the properties of the substrate, but will also be inaccessible to plants.

Find out how to properly plant raspberries in spring.
Another type of soil is loam, which is rich in minerals, but at the same time very absorbent, compacted, poorly aerated and heavy, so plants will not be able to benefit from the nutrients stored in it. It also warms up slowly, so it stays cold for a long time in the spring. During rainy periods it easily absorbs and retains water for a long time, but during drought it dries out, crumbles and breaks, making it difficult for raspberries to grow.

Wet loam sticks, smears and retains its shape, so you can easily form it into a roller with your hands. However, dry clay crumbles and falls apart. Like sandy soils, clay soil is not suitable for growing plants without proper preparation. Stagnation of water and lack of air contribute to rotting of the roots, and drought causes cracking of the clay and prevents the development of shrubs. However, its quality can be improved by adding loose sand or well-decomposed compost (preferably in the fall).

Why are raspberries sour: reasons, what to do?

Raspberry varieties have different degrees of aroma. There are special types of berries with a sweet and sour taste. But, if a sweet variety turns out to have sour fruits, then the reason lies in improper care of the bushes. What to do?

• A tincture made from the ash of the foliage of herbaceous plants will help restore the taste of berries .
• The prepared ash is stirred in hot water - 1/3 of the fertilizer per bucket, and left for two days. Strain before use.
• The resulting solution must be sprayed onto the rhizomes and leaves.

It is important to maintain the golden mean in fertilizing with nitrogen. Oversaturation of raspberries with nitrogen fertilizer changes the aroma of the berries for the worse. To ensure that minerals are consumed evenly, raspberries are pruned in the fall.

Raspberry fertility decreases when the soil lacks acidity. Low Ph can be corrected not only before planting, but also after it. At the end of spring (May-June), add about 150 grams of wood ash .

Raspberries have special wishes for the land in which they will grow. But then caring for the bushes will be easy and pleasant. Raspberries need regular watering and simple fertilizers that do not require additional costs. For your efforts, raspberries will reward you with delicious and healthy berries. Good luck!

Traditional methods: organic fertilizers

Natural homemade fertilizers applied to berry bushes are not only beneficial for plants, but also safe for human health. This is also a good way to use up natural waste from your own garden.

Video: organic fertilizers

Natural homemade organic fertilizers are environmentally friendly and free because they are made from ingredients that the gardener has on hand.
They are rich in various types of nutrients, making them a successful substitute for chemical fertilizers. They have no downsides at all, except perhaps the time spent by the gardener on their preparation. Natural fertilizers that you can prepare yourself:

• wood ash, which prevents soil acidification and increases its pH;
• feeding from eggshells, which is a source of calcium;
• potash fertilizer with banana peel;
• from tea leaves and coffee to acidify the soil;
• liquid green manure from plants (nettles, dandelions, tomato leaves, various herbs);
• fertile compost that increases the humus content.

Many natural fertilizers can be made in a few minutes, although there are also options that take several months to prepare, such as compost.

How to make natural fertilizer:

1. Wood ash - if the house has a stove or fireplace that is heated with wood, you can use the leftovers to feed the bushes. Ash, as a standalone fertilizer, should be used in moderation as it contains a high concentration of elements such as magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and sodium. In addition, the substance has a high pH and should not be used simultaneously with liming the soil. You can sprinkle the bed with ash, but the best solution is to add this component to compost based on the remains of green plants (due to the nitrogen they contain).

2. Green goo - Liquid manure from nettle is one of the best natural fertilizers that you can prepare yourself. In addition to a high concentration of nitrogen, it also contains phosphorus, iron, magnesium and calcium. Nettle suspension is an ideal fertilizer for vegetables (except garlic, onions and legumes) and herbs. It is also loved by berry bushes (raspberries, currants, joshta), roses and perennials. In addition, there is information about the effectiveness of the extract as a natural remedy against aphid attacks. To prepare liquid manure you will need 10 liters of water, 1 kg of fresh nettles without flowers and seeds (or 200 g dried). The plants are placed in a barrel or other container, then filled with water and left to ferment for 2 weeks (when it is cold, fermentation can take up to 4 weeks) in a shady place. It is advisable to stir the contents of the container daily. Before use, prepared liquid manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

3. Compost is a fertilizer made from organic waste such as grass, twigs, leaves, vegetable peels, eggshells and coffee grounds. It is added to the soil, which helps increase the humus content and retain water and minerals. Soil containing compost is versatile and ideal for growing vegetables, flowers, fruit trees or berry bushes. During preparation, remember that the composted material must be in direct contact with the soil to facilitate access to organic matter for earthworms. After laying, it ripens within several months; the cooking time depends on the air temperature and time of year.

The purpose of preparing a raspberry bed is to give the seedlings a solid foundation for future growth and development, and may include: adding vital minerals and nutrients with fertilizers or organic matter, as well as breaking up and loosening compacted soils.

Video: Raspberries dry out - what to do?

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Loosening

This source (the Fruit Growing reference book) also recommends paying special attention to loosening the soil under raspberry bushes.

Planting strips must be regularly maintained loose and weed-free. The main tillage is carried out in the fall, after the end of the growing season. In October, the row spacing is plowed to a depth of 15-20 cm, and the soil around the plants in the rows is dug up with pitchforks or shovels to a depth of 8-12 cm. In this case, the shovel is placed not across, but along in the direction of root growth, so as not to damage them.

In the spring and immediately after harvesting, small-scale cultivation is carried out and they try to maintain the soil in this condition throughout the season.

Automated raspberry watering system

Of course, gardeners are increasingly using an automatic irrigation system; this significantly saves time, effort and water.
All that remains is to select and buy the system itself. The installations differ mainly in price. It is believed that for plantings more than 5 years old you need to buy a more expensive system, but for young bushes it will be cheaper.

Depending on the irrigation area, you can determine the length of the system and the number of droppers, taking into account their installation interval of 30 cm, in order to ensure proper watering of raspberries.

Every gardener can install an irrigation system by following the recommendations:

1. The container from which the water will flow should be nearby and raised to a height of 1 meter.
2. For water from tap water or rainwater, it is necessary to install a purification filter.
3. To control the amount of liquid supplied, a sensor can be installed in the tank.
4. Now all that remains is to install the hoses according to the desired pattern, install droppers and plugs at the ends of the pipe.

1. Everything is simple, for watering you only need to open the water supply valve to the system. Watering can be done at any time, since water flows to the root.
2. This system also waters and fertilizes raspberries in the spring. To do this, fertilizers are added to the tank in the required dosage.

What pests do raspberries have and what causes them?

Some raspberry pests are also strawberry pests, so the measures to combat them are the same. These are spider mites and raspberry-strawberry weevils. But there are also “own” pests - the raspberry beetle and the raspberry fly, which cause the most significant damage to raspberries. In addition, there is also a stem gall midge, but no nematode. The easiest way to fight the raspberry fly is during its flight, which coincides with cherry blossoms. At this point, you can spray the raspberry plantings with karbofos even before it blooms. But it is better to use one of the biological products - “Fitoverm” or “Agravertin”, since beneficial insects have already come out of the ground. If you missed the moment of the fly’s flight, then pay attention to the drooping tops of the young raspberry shoots. This fly has penetrated into them, so urgently tear out the shoots and burn them in the stove. You cannot leave the pulled out shoots on the compost. The fly larva overwinters in the soil and can also overwinter in compost.

The raspberry beetle also overwinters in the soil and comes to the surface at the end of May. If during the cherry blossom period you spray raspberries with a biological product, then it retains its protective properties against all sucking and gnawing pests for three weeks. This means the next spraying can be done in early June. The raspberry beetle lays its larva, like the weevil, in a flower bud. The easiest way to fight it is to shake off the beetle in the morning, when it is inactive, onto the litter and destroy it. The easiest way to combat weevils on raspberries is also by shaking them off onto the litter. When you pick raspberries, you unwittingly help beetle larvae (white small raspberry worms that live in the berries) to get into the soil. Therefore, in order not to make their fate easier, cut off the raspberries along with the stalks. Then all the worms in the berries will fall into your hands. After peeling the berries from the stalks, fill the raspberries with salted water (1 tablespoon per 1 liter). The worms will float to the surface and all that remains is to drain them along with the water, rinse the berries again with cold water and use immediately.

Wet raspberries are not stored at all. Berries, removed together with the stalks, can be transported and stored in the refrigerator for no more than a day. If you are used to picking berries without stalks, then lay paper on the bottom of the basket so that the worms that fall out of the berries do not fall onto the soil through the gaps between the rods. Or collect the berries in a bowl. And then we do the same with the berries as just described. Berries picked without stalks are very wrinkled, so their transportation is difficult. Raspberries should be collected in shallow containers to avoid crushing the berries. There are practically no raspberries without worms.

The most common of raspberry diseases is gray rot, which is especially annoying in wet years. In dense plantings it can cause significant damage to the crop. In recent years, purple spotting of raspberry stems has begun to appear in the North-West, which first appears as purple spots under the petioles of leaves, then the spots spread and can ring the stem. At the same time, the bark cracks, peels off, and the shoot dies. “Fitosporin” helps perfectly against all fungal diseases, which can be sprayed on plants at any time during the growing season, or early spring spraying with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Repeated spraying should be done after harvesting.

In recent years, a new drug has been created - “Zircon”, which copes well with all fungal, bacterial and even viral plant diseases, including purple spotting of raspberries. As soon as you notice that in the middle of summer some shoot begins to dry out (along with flowers and berries), then immediately cut it down to the ground, without leaving a stump. The shoot cannot be left, since the stem contains spores of the purple spot fungus, which are spread everywhere, including onto the stems of this year’s young raspberries. It is urgently necessary to spray all raspberry stems with the Zircon preparation - both young ones that have grown this year and fruit-bearing ones. After harvesting, when you cut out and burn the fruit-bearing shoots, be sure to re-spray the young stems remaining over the winter with Zircon. By doing this you will save next year's harvest, otherwise spores that have become entrenched on young shoots will cause their death next summer, i.e. at the height of fruiting.

The most dangerous diseases for raspberries are viral and mycoplasma diseases, against which drugs are so far powerless. These diseases manifest themselves in different ways. The mosaic is immediately noticeable by the yellow-green mosaic color of the raspberry leaves. The witch's broom outwardly manifests itself in the appearance of a myriad of root shoots that do not grow. Curlyness is expressed in the wrinkling of raspberry leaves, which acquire a reddish-bronze tint and become very small. All bushes with the indicated signs must be immediately dug up with a large lump of earth and immediately, without delay, since diseases are transferred from diseased plants to healthy ones by the saliva of sucking insects. These diseases spread quickly and can destroy entire raspberry plantings in one season.

The benefits of mulching

Mulching is the introduction of certain components into the soil that affect the physical and chemical properties of the soil. This procedure is performed to achieve several goals:

Experienced gardeners emphasize that, other things being equal, a mulched area remains moist longer and requires less frequent application of fertilizers. Fewer weeds grow on it.

At the same time, high plant productivity is maintained. Thus, while saving the gardener’s time and effort, it is possible to obtain a large amount of raspberries.

To achieve good results, you need to apply mulch to the area correctly: