What is the yield of cucumbers from one bush in a greenhouse?



In Russia, the cucumber has been known since the 16th century. It was then that the first centers for the cultivation of this crop began to emerge on the territory of our state - the cities of Nezhin, Murom, Suzdal. Today, among vegetables in terms of volume of consumption, cucumber is second only to potatoes and cabbage. Therefore, obtaining a decent harvest is one of the urgent tasks of a gardener. In this article we will tell you how to increase the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse and open ground.

The yield of cucumbers can be affected by many factors, both exogenous and endogenous. Among the first, external ones are growing conditions, climatic zone, soil composition, and agricultural technology features. Among the internal ones are varietal characteristics and seed quality.

The most productive varieties

For many farmers, the main indicator of the quality of a variety is the number of vegetables harvested per hectare (one hundred square meters), and not their taste or early maturity. The Russian selection options described below allow you to harvest up to 35 kg per square meter and are the most productive in the temperate climate zone. Let's look at the most prominent representatives of this group.

  1. Tumi cucumber. With proper care, one bush yields up to 10-12 kilograms; in some breeding areas it was possible to collect up to 39 kg per square meter. Unpretentious to moisture, not susceptible to brown spot, powdery mildew, anthracosis, and other known diseases. When tied to a trellis, it forms a solid “crown” that grows by 2-3 sq.m. and has good taste. It easily tolerates sudden changes in temperature, is well transported, and has increased shelf life. It can be grown in open ground, provided that good drainage is created in the soil and planted in loose soil. Medium late, technical ripeness of the fruit occurs in 45-53 days. The average length of the fruit is 9.5 centimeters and has a thin skin.
  2. Cucumber Sigurd. Excellent for planting in open ground, in greenhouse conditions. It is planted in late spring or summer. A strong root system provides resistance to white rot, gray rot, powdery mildew, melon aphids, and other diseases. Proper care and abundant fertilizer increase the yield up to 15 kilograms per bush. This type of vegetable will give even better results if you plant the bushes at a distance of one and a half meters. The plant quickly depletes the soil, so it requires large amounts of fertilizer. In addition to root fertilizers, you need to add foliar fertilizer mixtures. The fruits of this hybrid are characterized by a dark green skin color, the presence of pronounced tubercles, and high density. The size of the fruit varies from 9 to 13 centimeters.
  3. Cucumber Courage. It can rightfully be called the best version of the Dutch selection; it was bred in 1980, but after 7 years it became a “bestseller” in the Russian markets and actively acclimatized on our territory. Now Kurazh is considered a Russian hybrid, which confidently occupies the position of one of the highest-yielding greens - from one bush you can harvest up to 25 kg of vegetables , from one square meter up to 45 kg. Such indicators, of course, are only available with perfect care, but even in the hands of an ordinary summer resident, such a hybrid will fill the basement with delicious preserves and the table with fresh vegetables. Courage is resistant to Fusarium wilt and anthracosis of leaves, which very often affects even the best varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse.

Despite the solid potential yield of the varieties described above, they can produce very weak yields if the plants are not provided with a large amount of moisture and organic fertilizers. If you are going to seriously engage in this business, you need to add compost and mullein in advance, since the bushes deplete the soil in a few months. The main indicator of “weakness” is slightly yellowed leaves - at this moment it is time to start applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Productive cucumbers for open ground, table 3

Many amateur gardeners deliberately do not want to set up greenhouses on their property. They view their garden, first and foremost, as a place to relax. But nevertheless, fresh cucumbers from the garden are ready to be grown for everyday use.

Therefore, varieties of productive cucumbers for open ground are of interest to many.

This table shows the most productive varieties of cucumbers, which can grow with equal success not only in a greenhouse, but also in open ground. The cucumber variety Mashenka F1 is the only mid-early one, and it is advisable to plant it in the middle zone or to the south. The remaining varieties are early; no more than 1.5 months will pass before the start of fruiting from the mass emergence of sprouts.

Please note that for this group of plants there is no mention of the variety’s resistance to diseases common to cucumber plantings. Therefore, during the care process, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bushes and promptly eliminate lesions. 4 varieties from the first table are well suited for open ground: these are Beep F1, Joelina F1, Kroshechka F1, Lukhovitsy F1. For detailed descriptions of these varieties, see the links.

Cucumber Chinese Emperor F1

Cucumber Mashenka F1

Cucumber Pervachok F1

Cucumber Fountain F1

Cucumber Revenge F1

Cucumber Salad Hero F1

When growing by open method, it is necessary to especially carefully consider the varietal division by region. Zoning is an important element in selection; hybrids are created taking into account the most important characteristics of the area.

Most plants require pollination to form fruit. Eliminating dependence on insects is one of the tasks of breeders. New varieties are coming to the aid of gardeners:

  1. Self-pollinating - pollination occurs on one plant (there are pistils and stamens). When the seeds ripen, the fruit turns yellow and dries out.
  2. Parthenocarpic plants produce only female flowers. The fruits do not turn yellow, there are no seeds or they are in rudimentary form, they are stored well, and produce a long and abundant harvest.

Among the disadvantages, we note the highest cost of seeds for hybrids of this species.

The earliest ripening varieties and hybrids

Many winter varieties of cucumbers have a long ripening period (up to 70 days), which will not satisfy the requirements of many gardeners who want to get everything at once. It is known that in winter the price of vegetables is much higher and the profitability of vegetable growing increases significantly. The earlier you harvest, the more expensive it can be sold several months before the start of the season. If you are looking for early ripening cucumbers for greenhouses, the varieties in the list below will be the best option.

  1. Kibria cucumber. The earliest group, technical ripeness occurs in 45 days, due to which it is the No. 1 choice for many summer residents who grow vegetables in greenhouses. The generative power of the bush is very high, it forms a large number of fruits (up to 25 pieces), weighing 90-100 grams. In addition to being ultra-early, it has high yields. This hybrid brings up to 12 kg per square meter - an excellent result for domestic selection. Resistance to anthracosis and fusarium is high, and is most adapted for growing indoors. The taste is excellent, it has a characteristic crunch when biting, the flesh is sweet and very dense.
  2. Cucumber Meringue. An ultra-early ripening hybrid that tolerates low temperatures well (seeds germinate at +10 degrees) and reaches technical ripeness after 50 days. The average weight of one fruit is about 150 grams, quite large. Some specimens grow to 300 grams or more, but this is rare, since with proper care and timely harvesting, all youngsters have a marketable appearance. Resistance to rot is high, but often various types of fungi form on the leaves, including brown spots. It is recommended to treat with copper-containing preparations when growing crops indoors. The bushes are tall and very tangled; it is recommended to grow them on a trellis so that the bushes can be organized into the correct shape as best as possible.
  3. Cucumber Cupid. An ultra-early hybrid with a ripening period of only 42 days. The first green ones appear 35 days after germination; it is this feature that attracts many summer residents and farmers who want to grow vegetables in a greenhouse and are counting on an early harvest to make more profit. The average weight of one fruit is 80 grams, up to 35 pieces are formed on one bush, and an average of 12-14 kilograms can be collected from one square meter. As for disease resistance, it is high, primarily to anthracosis and verticillium wilt.

Ultra-early ripening species do not have high yields and even with ideal care in breeding plots they do not produce more than 15 kg per square meter. The taste also leaves much to be desired, since the rapid ripening of the fruit does not allow the accumulation of sugars and other substances that can affect the taste of the fruit. The only advantage of such a fast ripening period (relative to taste) is the crispy skin and pulp, for which they are valued by every consumer.

Varieties of Russian and foreign selection with the best taste qualities

For those for whom the number of vegetables collected, as well as their ripening period, does not matter, the following options will be the most suitable. They have the best taste, are the sweetest and crispiest. Suitable for salads, packing into jars, preparing vegetable dishes and simply for selling in bulk. They have an excellent presentation. We offer you cucumbers with the best taste and the highest content of vitamins.

  1. Cucumber Gunnar. An excellent option of Dutch selection, a hybrid whose taste has won the respect of many farmers and gardeners. Despite the fact that its yield is not too high (only 14 kg/1 sq.m.), the sugar content (5.3%) and a huge amount of ascorbic acid make it not only tasty, but also healthy for the body. The average length of green ones is 13 centimeters, and the ratio of length to diameter is 3.5:1. That is, it has an excellent presentation. Keeping quality and transportability are high, which is why it has become one of the most popular varieties for export. Technical ripeness occurs 60 days after germination (medium late). Acclimatized in temperate Russia, for the last 4 years it has been successfully grown in the Krasnodar breeding site.
  2. Claudia's cucumber. A representative of high-yielding and, at the same time, the most delicious cucumbers. It can produce up to 37 kg of sweet vegetables per square meter, all of which weigh no more than 85 grams. If you collect them in a timely manner, they are very elastic, and their flesh is dry and crispy. Resistance to diseases is good; only 1 treatment with fungicides is required during the growing season of the plant and it will last until the technical ripening of the fruit.
  3. Temp cucumber. A sweet, early ripening European hybrid, which has occupied a leading position in Russia for 11 years. It is planted not only by summer residents, but also by farmers who sell vegetables and export them over long distances. The keeping quality and transportability of the hybrid are very good, since the pulp is extremely dense and dry. When you bite into it there is never any bitterness, even in the skin, you can feel a sweet taste and crackle. Fruiting bunches of 3-4 vegetables are formed on the bush, each of which weighs 65-70 grams. There are no large fruits, the maximum weight is 85-90 grams, after which they turn yellow and lose their elasticity.

These varieties are an ideal option for anyone who grows vegetables “for themselves” and wants to get a good harvest of incredibly tasty greens. The ripening period is long, so early planting and heating are required to obtain fruits before the start of the season. Otherwise, ripening occurs already at the end of spring.

How to calculate the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse and which variety is the most productive?

Every vegetable grower wants to get the richest and highest quality harvest - this is exactly what interests many farmers.

The most productive varieties: what to choose

It is necessary to understand that yield depends on many factors, where not only the arrangement of the greenhouse, but also the characteristics of the plant variety are of particular importance.

Depending on the variety, the vegetable grower can get early or late fruits, a rich harvest or unusually tasty cucumbers. Therefore, the selection of the appropriate type of seed will directly depend on the farmer’s priorities.


According to most gardeners, the most productive representatives of cucumber varieties are hybrids adapted to greenhouse conditions and resistant to most diseases and parasites.

The most productive varieties include:

  • "Tumi": hardy, unpretentious to watering. Productivity: up to 12 kilograms per bush. Size of one fruit: up to 10 centimeters. Thin skin.
  • "Courage": resistant to most diseases. Productivity: up to 25 kilograms per bush.
  • "Amur": ultra-early and most productive hybrid. Productivity: from 30 to 50 kilograms per square meter.
  • "Herman": super-yielding and self-pollinating hybrid. Versatile. Productivity: from 25 to 35 kilograms per square meter.
  • "Prestige": early ripening hybrid. Hardy. Productivity: 25 kilograms per square meter.
  • "Ekol": early ripening parthenocarpic hybrid. Ideal for pickling.


Conventional cucumber varieties, which require traditional external pollination with the help of insects, are mainly planted only in professionally equipped greenhouses equipped with special sliding ceiling panels.

As practice shows, the best self-pollinating varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses are:

  • "Courage F1";
  • "Heroic Strength F1";
  • "Tournament F1";
  • "Zozulya F1";
  • "Sultan F1".

How to increase the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse?

There can be many reasons for a decrease in cucumber yields, including:

  • temperature too low or high;
  • diseases;
  • frost;
  • excess or lack of moisture.

That is why it is necessary to carefully care for plants and create conditions favorable for their growth:

  • create the correct temperature regime: from 18 (at night) to 30 degrees (during the day);
  • ensure an optimal level of carbon dioxide: if sufficient concentration is provided (0.5%), productivity can increase by almost 50%;
  • regularly ventilate the greenhouse in the evening, make sure there are no drafts;
  • provide evening, daily and warm watering: about 5-10 liters of water per 1 square meter (in cool times - no more than 3 liters). When inflorescences appear, reduce watering to 4-5 liters.
  • systematically feed the plants: immediately after planting and during flowering and formation of ovaries.

To obtain a rich harvest of cucumbers, experienced gardeners recommend after germination:

  • Hill up the bushes only after the third leaf has formed;
  • after the fifth leaf appears, pinch the shoot with a knife, as the formation of side shoots will help speed up the formation of fruits;
  • regularly loosen the soil, trying not to harm the root system;
  • cover the soil with compost or peat, which will allow the cucumbers to accumulate nutrients;
  • artificially pollinate plants using a brush, transferring pollen from male inflorescences to female ones;
  • Harvest in a timely manner, since regular collection of ripened fruits stimulates the ripening of new ones.

Tip: Once every two weeks, water the plants with milk diluted in water in a ratio of 1 to 2, this will additionally stimulate the growth of cucumbers.

Five days before the “smoking” procedure, it is necessary to stop watering.

Some secrets

In order to get a truly abundant and high-quality harvest, it is extremely important to follow all the rules at each stage of growing vegetables, because every seemingly little thing plays an important role in achieving the goal.

Therefore, many farmers advise:

  • place the greenhouse on a flat place or with a minimal slope to the south, while groundwater should lie at a depth of 1.5-2 meters;
  • install a greenhouse with a volume-to-area ratio of 2k1, which will allow maintaining ideal temperature conditions;
  • build a bed no more than 25 centimeters high;
  • stretch an elastic wire along all rows, to which you can later tie up grown plants;
  • plant plants in such a way that there are no more than three plantings in one square space;
  • It is necessary to start preparing the greenhouse in the fall: remove the remains of outdated plants and 4-5 centimeters of soil from the surface, since pathogenic organisms accumulate in this layer;
  • pre-fertilize the soil;
  • stabilize soil acidity levels;
  • use high-quality soil;
  • a few months before planting, treat all wooden elements of the greenhouse with a solution of copper sulfate, paint the iron parts;
  • Before planting cucumbers, treat the soil with a hot solution of potassium permanganate.

How to determine yield?


However, it is necessary to understand that to achieve this result, the farmer must:

  • choose the right variety;
  • choose the right soil composition;
  • control the quality of purchased seeds;
  • plant plants in a timely manner;
  • ensure normal planting density;
  • properly fertilize;
  • maintain an optimal watering schedule;
  • regulate the level of lighting in the greenhouse;
  • observe the temperature regime;
  • carry out prevention of possible diseases and damage to plants by pests;
  • harvest in a timely manner.

In a year

With the right approach, a farmer can harvest cucumbers in a greenhouse throughout the year. But for this it is necessary not only to select the right plant varieties, but also to provide heating and lighting for the greenhouse to create favorable conditions necessary for growing cucumbers.

Per square meter

As practice shows, the average yield of cucumbers per square meter with normal care is about 30-40 kilograms, but if the plants are provided with additional comfort, the figure can increase to 50-60 kilograms.

From one bush

Thus, the most important rule in growing cucumbers is to observe moderation in everything. Maintaining optimal temperature conditions, regular ventilation and moderate air humidity will allow you to get a truly rich harvest that will be the envy of any neighbor.

How to grow cucumbers correctly

Even with a well-chosen cucumber variety, the final result still largely depends on proper cultivation of the crop.

Strengthening the root system

Cucumber plants have a rather weak root system, which is easily damaged when loosening the soil, and when the soil temperature drops to +13°C it can even die. There are several ways to increase the root system of cucumbers and strengthen it.

With the first method you need:

  1. Fill the containers in which the cucumber seeds are planted halfway with the substrate.
  2. Cover the containers with glass or film and place in a warm place.
  3. When the seedlings peck, after about 4 days, the covering is removed from the containers, and they themselves are placed on the windowsill.
  4. As the seedlings grow, substrate is added to the container until it fills it completely.

During this process, the tubercles that are observed on the stem of the sprout sprout roots when the stem is covered, as a result of which, after covering part of the stem with substrate, the root system of the plant increases approximately 2 times.

With the second method of strengthening the root system, you should:

  1. When 2 true leaves appear on the sprouts, remove the seedlings from the container along with the earthen lump and transplant them into a large container, also half filled with substrate.
  2. As the seedlings grow, constantly add soil to the container.
  3. At the same time, prepare a place for planting seedlings.

During the strengthening and development of the root system, in the third way you need to:

  1. Dig holes in the prepared bed about 2 times deeper than the height of the earthen ball of the seedlings.
  2. Remove the seedlings from the container along with the earthen ball and place them in the hole.
  3. Sprinkle the sides of the earthen ball with soil level with the top of the ball.
  4. Then put a layer of straw 8–10 cm thick on top and fill it with soil to the top of the hole and water thoroughly.

As a result, a third row of additional roots will grow on the main stem of the cucumber seedling, which will significantly strengthen the plant and increase its productivity.


Seedlings planted in the ground need to be watered only after several days have passed after they have acclimatized in a new place. But after this, the cucumber bush requires constant soil moisture, which, however, in no case should reach the point of waterlogging. The plant's need for moisture especially increases during the period of fruit formation.

It is best to water the plants in the morning or evening with warm, settled water. It is recommended to combine watering with fertilizing. Mulching with hay, straw, and rotted sawdust is very helpful in maintaining optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the soil.


During the growing season, cucumber plants require up to 5 fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers:

  1. During flowering, the first feeding is carried out. To prepare it, add 10 g of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea and 1 cup of mullein to a bucket of water.
  2. With the appearance of the first fruits, the soil is enriched with 1 glass of chicken manure and 15 g of nitrophoska dissolved in a bucket of water.
  3. After half a month, for each m² of soil, add 6 liters of a solution prepared from 10 g of potassium sulfate and 0.6 liters of mullein added to a bucket of water.
  4. After another half a month, 15 g of nitrophoska, 0.6 liters of chicken droppings or mullein should be diluted in a bucket of water and watered with 9 liters of the resulting mixture per m².

During cool summers, the plant has problems absorbing nutrients from the soil.
And then foliar feeding comes to the rescue. Usually it is carried out with the beginning of flowering, with the onset of fruiting and with a decline in fruiting activity. Plants are saturated with nitrogen using urea, which is dissolved in an amount of 35 g, 25 g and 12 g in a bucket of water and used in the first, second and third feedings, respectively. At the beginning of flowering, the cucumber bush also needs potassium, phosphorus and manganese, which are delivered to the plants using foliar feeding through a mixture of 35 g of superphosphate and a bucket of water, as well as 10 g of boric acid and 15 crystals of potassium permanganate dissolved in 1 liter of water. Foliar feeding is carried out by spraying solutions on the leaf surfaces of the bushes.

Cucumber yield indicators in a greenhouse

You can grow vegetables and fruits in warm areas all year round. Sunlight will provide good yield per 1 sq. m and rapid growth of plants. But is it possible to get the same results for residents of countries with cold climates? Thanks to greenhouses, seedlings can be grown all year round. It will provide favorable conditions for plants and their rapid growth. However, no matter how equipped the room is, the result, first of all, depends on the efforts of the gardener. Cucumber harvest in a greenhouse - what stages does the growing process include and how can you achieve the most fruitful results?

Cucumber yield indicators in a greenhouse

Useful tips for gardeners

Experienced vegetable growers advise:

  • during active fruiting, collect fruits from cucumber vines daily so that the plant does not stop bearing fruit;
  • as an additional feeding, use air feeding, carried out using a barrel filled with water and organic matter, which during the fermentation process release carbon dioxide and nitrogen into the greenhouse atmosphere, which are so beneficial for plants;
  • stop watering for a short time, then resume it again, in order to use the stress received by the plant to encourage it to more actively produce female flowers rather than barren flowers;
  • do not store cucumber fruits next to other vegetables and fruits, which, by releasing ethylene, force the overripening of cucumbers;
  • Do not keep cucumbers for a long time in a warm place and in a brightly lit place before storing them, as this significantly worsens the consumer quality of the fruit.

The yield of cucumber crops directly depends on the plant variety and the place where it grows, and ultimately depends on human activity, which alone can put an end to the struggle for the harvest.

Arranging a garden bed

A greenhouse in the northern regions should be equipped with beds with an increased level of heat - manure or compost. They are usually set up in spring or early summer - in greenhouse or greenhouse conditions.

Manure beds

Manure beds are a good option. Cow is best, with horse as an alternative. Such natural fertilizing will provide the soil with the necessary nutrients. It is especially important to feed the developing fruit during the growing season.

The manure is laid out in a meter-long bed and covered with loose soil in a layer of 25 cm. This is followed by abundant watering. Seeds are planted at the rate of 3-4 plants per 1 sq. m. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to germinate or soak the seeds before planting. The seedlings can be covered with film to enhance the thermal effect.

Attention! Be careful with hot bed temperatures: maintain an average temperature of about 25 degrees, ventilate the area, and be careful not to burn yourself. The process is valid for one or one and a half months, so calculate the planting time correctly.

Compost beds

If there is no opportunity or desire to deal with manure, you can use organic material to fertilize warm beds with cucumbers: shavings, sawdust, dry leaves, etc. The landing principle is similar to the previous one. Only in this case, before planting, the seeds are germinated and placed in glasses or peat tablets.

Since the temperature will not be as high, this method is more relevant for farmers from warm regions. Northerners will have to wait for spring. Hot soil is a godsend for greenhouses, thanks to which cucumbers can be grown in greenhouses at any time of the year.


Greenhouse growing technology suggests that seeds must be hardened before planting and have at least 4 leaves - this directly affects the yield. Cucumber seedlings are planted in winter greenhouses in late January and early February. In spring, with a heating system - in early April, in a partially unheated system - at the end of the month or even in early May (depending on the availability of biofuel).

For the purpose of better air circulation and heating, planting is done on ridges 125 by 35 cm. Irrigation is carried out beforehand. The top of the planting cube should rise above the beds.

Tying cucumbers and care

Roots need air supply

Many gardeners underestimate the importance of this stage in the process of plant formation. Timely garter will save the cultivated crop from reducing the size of the leaves and, as a result, reducing the intensity of the harvest. The point is to lower the trellis loops while constantly watering the plant during its growth. The trellis is tied to a wire structure stretched along a row for 1 m.

The formation of the first bush starts after the appearance of at least 8 leaves, which is required for complete readiness. At the nodes below, 3-4 branches are plucked off. In the upper ones - one leaf and one fruit. When the plant reaches the very top of the wire, the main lash is wrapped around it twice, tied and pinched downwards, not reaching one meter to the ground.

Air supply and maintaining the required level of humidity are of great importance for the root system. Sometimes these things don't go well together. Therefore, the humidity in the greenhouse should be around 75% to meet both plant requirements. Particular care should be taken when watering in winter - only in the morning, in sunlight, using water at room temperature, no more than twice a week. If necessary, increase to three. Avoid getting liquid on the leaves of the bush.

About digging a bed for cucumbers. What and why?

Cucumbers do not grow well in dense soil, so it is necessary to provide their roots with a supply of air. You need to dig up a bed for cucumbers 2 times on wet soil. If the soil is dry, you can water it lightly.

First, remove the fertile edge from the outer row to the depth of a spade bayonet, set it aside on the edge of the bed, then use a pitchfork to loosen the exposed bottom layer and moisten it a little.

After this, dig the next row, placing the fertile soil from it on the loosened, moist layer of the first row. Loosen the exposed bottom again with a pitchfork and moisten it. Thus, proceed until the end of the bed.

Cover the bottom layer of the last row with the top layer of the first row. With this digging, the cucumber roots will acquire a double supply of air.

Increased yield

So, on what factors does the fertility of cucumber seedlings depend? How to get a large number of copies:

  • suitable variety;
  • quality soil;
  • timely disembarkation;
  • correct planting density;
  • abundant feeding and watering;
  • good level of lighting in the greenhouse;
  • set temperature mode;
  • prevention of fungal diseases;
  • protection from attack by insect pests;
  • harvesting as it grows.

To increase the amount of fruit harvested per hundred, some farmers resort to nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The main thing here is not to overdo it - otherwise the cucumbers will become harmful for consumption. A safer option is to use air supply. A container with organic fertilizers diluted with water is installed in the middle of the greenhouse. Thus, nitrogen and oxygen are released into the indoor air. How many kg of cucumbers can be obtained from 1 m2 in a greenhouse? Experienced gardeners remove up to 30 kg.

One good and clever method, which was invented at the beginning of the last century, is to temporarily suspend watering. When it resumes, the plant, from the stress it has experienced, begins to form a large number of female flowers, almost without producing empty flowers.

What kind of cucumber crop can be harvested from 1 sq. m in a greenhouse?

What gardener doesn’t want to get a good harvest from his plot? In order to increase the number of cucumbers grown indoors, you need not only good plant care, but also the right choice of crop variety. Recently, a lot of seeds have been sold in stores, and it is very difficult for a novice vegetable grower to decide. Let's look at the main high-yielding time-tested cucumber hybrids.

Fertilizers and cucumber fertilizers

From 2010 to 2012, employees of the scientific laboratory of the Stavropol Agrarian University conducted a study on the effectiveness of a number of fertilizers for cucumbers. The drugs “Radifarm”, “Benefit” and “Megafol” were evaluated. All of them contain only organic components and are completely safe for plants. Compared to the control group, which was grown without fertilizing, the use of these drugs gave the following results:

Growing optionProductivity, kg/m2Increase in control, kg/m2
Without fertilizing22,1
Using “Radifarm”23,31,2
Using “Benefit”23,52,4
Using Megafol22,70,6
Combination of three drugs26,03,7

The effect of fertilizing on yield is obvious. However, beginners in vegetable growing who have no experience in using fertilizers can use the safest possible option for feeding cucumbers - “herbal tea”. It is very easy to prepare. Any volumetric container is filled one third with cut grass. Everything is used - from the mowed lawn to the weeds. Of the latter, the best are nettle and dandelion.

You can also add a shovel of manure or a can of ash there. The mixture is filled to the top with water, the container is covered and left for ten days. When the mixture ferments and foams, it is used at a dilution of 1:10. “Herbal tea” not only feeds the plants, but also increases the cucumber’s immunity to diseases.

The most productive varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses

Often, when purchasing seeds, gardeners are guided by the yield that the manufacturer stated on the packaging. But you should understand that the number on the bag is conditional. The fact is that the agricultural company actually creates optimally favorable conditions for the growth and fruiting of the crop, which is not always possible to do on a summer cottage. Let's compare the yields of the most popular varieties:

NameProductivity from 1 m 2 kgProductivity per hundred kgProductivity per ha
Friendly family10,310301030
Northern lights29,329302930

As can be seen from the table above, the yield of different varieties varies greatly. This indicator directly depends on genetics, which determines the length of the main stem and additional lashes, and the number of female inflorescences in each node. The work of breeders in our time is aimed at breeding hybrids of the bunch type of flowering, therefore the yield of such hybrids is much higher than simple varieties.

High-yielding greenhouse varieties of cucumbers resistant to diseases

To get a good harvest, it is not enough to plant high-yielding hybrids, since often common diseases and infections can reduce all attempts to get a lot of fruit to a minimum. Therefore, when choosing seed material, you need to pay attention to the resistance of the variety to common diseases. Let's look at the most popular ones:

Murashka F1

An early ripening variety that will delight you with cucumbers 45 days after sowing the seeds in the greenhouse. It is a parthenocarpic hybrid that does not require insects for pollination. The variety blooms in bunches, and as a result, high yield. The hybrid is resistant to many types of diseases. A fruit with good taste and universal.

Tom Thumb

An early ripening variety, the fruiting period begins on the 38th day, with a female type of flowering. The fruits are small, weighing no more than 60 g; this variety is ideal for any type of greenhouse and produces a consistent and good harvest. Resistant to diseases and viruses.

Benefit F1

An early ripening, self-pollinating hybrid, capable of producing a healthy harvest within 45 days. These versatile cucumbers have a very good taste without any natural bitterness. The advantage is that the plant practically does not suffer from diseases common to this crop.

Alekseich F1

An early-ripening crop with an average bush height. The hybrid is parthenocarpic, with independent pollination. Resistant to diseases, not susceptible to viral infections. It is characterized by high yield when grown indoors.

Emelya F1

Universal hybrid, early ripening, self-pollinating, heat-loving. It is worth noting that this variety has unlimited growth of the main stem, so it is necessary to form a bush to increase yield. Resistant to diseases. The hybrid yields its harvest in unison; during the active growing season, harvesting is carried out daily.

The Phoenix cucumber variety is considered a very promising variety, which is widely cultivated by gardeners. In this article you can find out what diseases the variety is resistant to and where this cucumber can be grown.

Concepts and terms

Let's start with the basics and recall that cucumber is an annual crop of the pumpkin family. The plant is predominantly herbaceous with a liana-like stem, but there are bush and semi-bush forms (determinate, that is, limited in growth).

Cucumbers of indeterminate varieties constantly grow in height, so additional support is created for them using trellises, nets, etc.

Indeterminate plants have no natural restrictions in the growth process, which often leads to fragile shoots breaking off, especially under the weight of the ripening crop. For such cucumbers, many people prefer to build trellises or stretch strong nets that support the vine stem and allow it to “climb” upward, clinging with its tendrils.

From this point of view, determinate varieties and hybrids are considered more unpretentious, in which the growth of the central shoot ends with the formation of a flower cluster at the level of 50-60 cm (in open ground) or 80-100 cm (in greenhouse conditions). The fruits of bush and semi-bush forms develop not so much on the central stem as on numerous lateral shoots. Among the most popular short-stemmed varieties of cucumbers are “Hector F1”, “Bogatyrskaya Sila F1”, “Vstrechny F1”, “Korotyshka”, etc.

Types of pollination

Cucumber flowers are yellow, mostly dioecious: male and female, solitary or collected in inflorescences.

Female flowers can be distinguished from male flowers by the presence of a compacted peduncle - the ovary of the future fruit.

As a rule, male flowers grow in a “bouquet” at the nodes of the main stem and side shoots, while female flowers are formed singly (in long-fruited varieties). The exception is the varieties of cucumbers with a bunched ovary, where the female flowers in the axils of the leaves are arranged in the form of inflorescences of 8-12 pieces.

The main type of pollination is cross-pollination, that is, pollen from male flowers must fall on female flowers in order for small ovaries to begin to develop. Insects cope well with this task. If they are not available, you can carry out manual pollination artificially (by transferring pollen with a brush or by leaning picked male flowers against female ones). An easier way is to choose parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids of cucumbers.

Cucumbers are not self-pollinating (self-pollinating). There are only two forms:

  1. Bee pollinated. Each plant has both male and female flowers. For fertilization, the pollen of the former must fall on the pistils of the latter. After this, the ovaries grow into greens of milky ripeness (this is what we eat). If the greens are left on the bushes, they will reach biological ripeness, that is, their pulp and skin will thicken, and the seeds will become thin and harden. Such seeds can be collected and sown.
  2. Parthenocarpic. All flowers are asexual (not bisexual, like tomatoes, this is important). As soon as the flower fades, a genetically programmed mechanism for the growth of the ovary is launched. It grows to a certain size, and it becomes green. Leaving it on the bush is useless, since it will never ripen and seeds will not form.

All original varieties involve the participation of insects in the pollination process (bee-pollinated)

The parthenocarpic varieties obtained as a result of selection are distinguished by the growth of unfertilized ovaries after the end of flowering. In this case, the fruits grow to a certain size and do not ripen further, that is, seeds do not develop in them.


Hybrids are bred by crossing several varieties (which ones exactly are a trade secret of each manufacturer). The abbreviation F1 in the name of varieties of cucumbers (and other plants) indicates that these are “children” seeds (F from Italian figli - children) in the first generation (1).

Obtaining high-quality hybrids is a labor-intensive breeding process, which explains the higher cost of hybrid seeds compared to varietal ones

As with any crossing, the main goal of creating hybrid varieties of cucumbers is an attempt to achieve a combination of the best qualities inherited from each parent. For example, with artificial pollination, one may impart unsurpassed crispness and sweetness, while another may impart disease resistance or high yield. Experiments in the field of breeding are ongoing; We see their results in the form of numerous new hybrids with improved properties.

The variety retains its characteristic parental characteristics at the genotype level. Therefore, the main difference between a variety and a hybrid is that the seeds of the variety you like can be collected annually and then grown without much loss in quality, but with hybrid forms such savings are practically impossible.

Many people prefer to plant hybrid forms of F1 cucumbers because of their resistance to diseases and pests, which is especially important in small and film greenhouses

There is a widespread belief that ordinary varieties, and even bee-pollinated ones, are much tastier and healthier than hybrids. You can agree with him or not, but hybrids, as a rule, provide a stable and high yield of fruits of “commercial” quality: even, healthy, equally colored, that is, cucumbers are simply one to one. At the same time, when growing hybrids, it is easy to achieve continuity of harvest throughout the entire season - from late spring until frost.

Ripening time

To obtain a constant harvest, it is recommended to plant seedlings or sow cucumber seeds in several stages.

Many gardeners begin preparing seedlings in February-March, and then plant them in the greenhouse. At home, it is not recommended to keep sprouted cucumbers for more than 3-4 weeks.

DeadlinesVarieties and hybrids
Early ripening – up to 45 days“Aquarius”, “Graceful”, “Competitor”, “Ajax F1”, “Kukui F1”, “Lux F1”, “Masha F1”, “Tycoon F1”, etc.
Mid-season – up to 49 days“Voronezhsky”, “Salting”, “Acorn F1”, “Noble F1”, “Claudia F1”, “Leader F1”, “Master F1”, “Soloist F1”, etc.
Late ripening – over 50 days“Far Eastern 6”, “Phoenix”, “Abbad F1”, “Bagration F1”, “Geisha F1”, “Forward F1”, etc.

When exactly you should plant cucumbers depends not only on the speed of their ripening, but also on the region in which you are located. Many varieties of vegetable crops are adapted to different climatic conditions, that is, specially zoned for certain areas. This factor is especially important when growing cucumbers in open ground.

How to increase the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse

So, how to get a large harvest of cucumbers in a greenhouse? To harvest a good harvest of cucumbers from a greenhouse, you need to follow certain rules for caring for the plant - timely pruning, watering and fertilizing.

The bush is formed as follows:

  1. Parthenocarpic varieties are formed into one lash, removing not only shoots, but also flowers up to the fourth true leaf. Then, layering is formed in four sinuses up to the first ovary, and pinching is performed. In the next 4 internodes, layering is formed up to the second ovary. And then the layering is pinched after the third ovary.
  2. Bee-pollinated cucumber species are formed into several layerings, since the main harvest can only be harvested from additional vines. To do this, after the sixth true leaf, the top of the plant is cut off. After this, they begin to form a bush from side lashes, avoiding thickening.

Fertilizing is another important factor that greatly affects the yield of crops in greenhouses. Usually three feedings are carried out over the summer, but when growing hybrids with a long growing season, at least 4 of them will be required:

  • 14 days after planting in the greenhouse;
  • as soon as the lashes begin to gain color;
  • at the moment of formation of greens;
  • during the main fruiting period.

It is worth noting that mulching the soil will help increase the yield of cucumbers in a greenhouse. Mulch helps retain moisture, prevents the growth of weeds, and provides additional nutrition for plants.

The plant itself will tell you what fertilizer it needs at the moment. If the following symptoms appear:

  • little formation of lashes, the plant grows very slowly;
  • on the main stem the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off;
  • there are few flowers and ovaries, and the formed cucumbers are small and not juicy.

Your crop is signaling a nitrogen deficiency. And also you should pay attention:

  1. The leaves turn red or acquire a bluish tint, this indicates that it is time to apply phosphorus-containing fertilizers.
  2. The leaves have darkened greatly and a yellow border has appeared. At the same time, the fruits are watery and bitter, and the side shoots are strongly elongated without forming ovaries; it’s time to add potassium to the soil.
  3. Calcium deficiency can be identified by the unsightly and sometimes ugly shape of the fruit.

If you carefully observe the crop planted in the greenhouse, you will be able to immediately understand what to feed the cucumbers at the moment.

Cucumbers are moisture-loving plants. Watering should be carried out in a timely manner, the soil should not dry out, but waterlogging is also detrimental to the plant. The most optimal method of watering for cucumbers is drip irrigation and sprinkling. The water must be heated in the sun, otherwise root rot will appear.

To increase productivity, many gardeners water cucumbers at the root with milk. To do this, add 2 liters of milk to 10 liters of heated water. Such watering promotes good flowering and fruit formation.

Planting cucumbers in open ground and its features

First of all, you need to decide what row spacing you will have. They can be made small, about 50 cm, but then a mandatory garter and careful care of the vine are required. It is worth considering that the vegetative growth of the vine is quite fast and in just a few weeks it can grow to 5 or more meters. It is best to plant at a distance of 80-90 centimeters between rows.

The planting process is quite simple and there is no need to invent anything extra - just dig a shallow trench (10-14 cm) and put the seeds there. Fill the trench and water it abundantly so that the soil is saturated with moisture and the seeds can germinate easily. You can also apply fertilizers, but their effectiveness is extremely questionable at the stage of seed germination. It is best to use foliar fertilizers before flowering or apply compost in advance. But this must be done at least 5-6 months before planting, since cucumbers can simply burn from a high concentration of fertilizers.

Joint sowing is encouraged. Moreover, it will be very useful for the vegetable, especially if corn is adjacent to it. Let's take a closer look at all the advantages of this planting method:

  1. Corn will protect the cucumbers from the wind and sun, which will immediately affect their productivity and development speed.
  2. It will serve as a kind of support and the cucumbers can curl along it. This will make caring for them much easier.
  3. The shade will retain moisture and the earth will not crack.

It is worth considering that the row spacing of corn must be made very wide so that it does not interfere with harvesting, otherwise 30-40 days after sowing you will no longer be able to reach either the first crop or the second. The optimal row spacing is 150 cm. In this case, the row of cucumber should go almost along the row of corn, so that the entire row spacing remains for weaving the stem and for the passage of a person.


You can also watch a video where an agronomist will tell you how to determine the number of cucumber fruits from one bush.

As you can see, the yield of cucumbers depends not only on good care. But if you are just starting out in vegetable growing, it is useful to understand that you need to buy good seeds and properly prepare them for planting. Sow the planting material in fertile soil and monitor the growth and development of the plant.

It is worth noting that if you do not stay on the site and collect greens every day during abundant fruiting, you will not see high yields.

Productivity of cucumbers per 1 sq. m in a greenhouse

The climatic conditions of some regions and unfavorable environmental background negatively affect the development of cucumbers. As a result of the influence of external factors, there is low seed germination, a shortening of the fruiting period, and a decrease in the taste of the fruit. For these reasons and to obtain an early harvest, gardeners grow the crop in greenhouse conditions. You can increase the yield of cucumbers per square meter by planting plants in a greenhouse.

Cucumber growing areas in Russia

Cucumbers today grow throughout Russia. Even on Valaam, monks successfully cultivate this crop in their own greenhouses. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, in the Moscow region or in Siberia you can get a harvest no worse than in Kuban. However, it is important to consider several nuances.

Hybrids and varieties are bred taking into account local climatic conditions. Therefore, when selecting seeds, you need to look at which growing zone the variety is recommended for. This information can be easily found on the Rosreestr website in the appropriate section. Some manufacturers place it on seed packages in the form of a number indicating the tolerance region:

Growing areaRegions
IArkhangelsk region, Murmansk region, Karelia, Komi Republic
IIKaliningrad, Vologda, Kostroma, Leningrad, Pskov, Novgorod, Yaroslavl, Tver regions
IIIMoscow, Bryansk, Ivanovo, Vladimir, Smolensk, Kaluga, Ryazan regions
IVKirov, Nizhny Novgorod, Sverdlovsk regions, Perm region, Chuvashia, Udmurtia, Mari El
VKursk, Voronezh, Belgorod, Oryol, Lipetsk, Tambov regions
VIKrasnodar and Stavropol Territories, Rostov Region, Crimea, Adygea, Dagestan, Kabardino-Balkaria, Ingushetia, North Ossetia-Alania, Chechen Republic
VIIPenza, Samara, Ulyanovsk regions, Mordovia and Tatarstan
VIIIAstrakhan, Saratov, Volgograd regions, Kalmykia
IXChelyabinsk, Kurgan, Orenburg regions, Bashkortostan
XAltai, Kemerovo, Tomsk, Novosibirsk, Tyumen, Omsk regions
XIKrasnoyarsk Territory, Irkutsk Region, Buryatia, Yakutia, Khakassia, Tyva, Transbaikal Territory
XIIPrimorsky and Khabarovsk Territories, Magadan, Amur, Kamchatka and Sakhalin regions

If you cannot find information about the regionalization of the variety you like, you can rely on early ripening. For the Moscow region and other regions of the central zone, varieties of early and medium ripening are suitable. Ultra-early varieties are suitable for northerners, while southerners can afford late-ripening varieties. Read also the article: → “Cucumber varieties for open ground: self-pollinating, for the Moscow region, for the middle zone.”

How much harvest can be harvested from 1 square meter when grown in beds

Greenhouse conditions for plants are the most acceptable: the desired temperature regime and a high degree of air humidity are created. Cucumbers react very positively to both factors, making it easy to harvest a good harvest. In addition, there are many advantages of this cultivation method:

  • the ability to enrich the soil composition with nutrients or completely replace it;
  • limit the access of precipitation to the garden bed;
  • reduce the risk of plant infection;
  • obtaining an early harvest and extending the fruiting period;
  • control of irrigation (amount of liquid and its temperature);
  • competent introduction of fertilizing.

You need to prepare the greenhouse for planting in the fall. The surfaces of the structure are washed and treated with lime mortar for disinfection. The soil is fertilized and covered with a thick layer of mulch. In the spring, after cleaning the soil and walls, the soil is enriched with organic matter (manure, humus).

Planting is done in rows to make it easier to tie the vines to the trellises. 3 bushes are planted per square meter. The interval between the rows is at least 50 cm, so that it is convenient to move along the beds.

Productivity largely depends on the selected variety and type of greenhouse. Among the most prolific varieties are the following varieties:

  • Tumi - up to 11 kg per bush;
  • Amur F1 – from 30 to 50 kg per m2;
  • Herman F1 – up to 25 kg per m2;
  • Prestige F1 – up to 28 kg per m2;
  • Ecole F1 – up to 9 kg per bush.

Cucumber yield

How many cucumbers can be harvested on average per 1 m²?

In order to talk substantively about the yield of a cucumber crop per 1 m², you should immediately decide on the place where it grows. This is due to the fact that in greenhouses the yield of cucumbers is on average 4 times higher than in open ground.

In addition, the yield of cucumbers in greenhouses, in turn, is influenced by many factors such as:

  • correct choice of cucumber variety;
  • proper soil preparation;
  • quality of the seed used;
  • optimal planting without thickening it;
  • correct watering;
  • sufficiency of lighting;
  • correct choice of temperature;
  • timeliness and sufficiency of fertilizing;
  • prevention of diseases and pest invasions;
  • timely harvesting.

First on this list is choosing the right cucumber variety. It is the varietal qualities that dramatically influence the yield of a given crop. Therefore, its average indicators in greenhouses range between 25 and 50 kg per 1 m². In open ground, these figures range from 8 to 12 kg per 1 m².

Correct ways to store fresh cucumbers

Growing a good harvest is half the battle. It is important to preserve it for fresh consumption and preservation. There are many proven and new technologies that can be adopted. How long cucumbers can be stored depends on the storage conditions.

Refrigerated storage conditions

To ensure that cucumbers retain their presentation and taste longer, it is recommended to use the refrigerator. Knowing some rules and techniques will allow you to enjoy the aroma and freshness of greens from 3 days to a month and achieve an increase in shelf life.

Vegetable tray

The fruits do not change their quality for about 3 days if they are placed in a vegetable tray. There is no need for special training.

In a plastic bag

The fruits remain edible for up to 10 days if they are placed in a plastic bag and covered with damp gauze. The packaging should be left open for air circulation.

In paper towels

If you wrap each green with a paper towel and place it in a plastic bag without closing it at the top, the shelf life increases to 2 weeks.

In a tray with water

Cucumbers will stay firm and fresh for up to 3-4 weeks when stored in a tray of water. To do this, 1-2 cm of liquid is drawn into the container. All fruits are placed vertically in it with their tails down. The tray itself fits into the vegetable compartment. The water needs to be changed every 2-3 days.

In egg white

You can extend the shelf life of cucumbers to 1 month using egg whites. To do this, you will need to prepare the fruits - wash and dry with a paper towel. While the vegetables are dried naturally, you need to separate the white from the yolk and beat it a little with a whisk. Then each cucumber needs to be soaked and dried on a wire rack. The resulting protein film prevents the evaporation of moisture, as a result of which the greens are stored for a long time (at least a month) in the vegetable tray of the refrigerator.

How to preserve cucumber at home

There are enough methods for storing cucumbers indoors.

In a cardboard box

The shortest delivery time (2-3 days) is provided by a cardboard box or wooden box. The harvested crop is carefully placed in containers and placed in a room with a temperature of at least 10-15°.

You can preserve the fruits a little longer by lowering the temperature to 6-8° – up to 10 days.

In damp cloth

Greens remain fresh for about a week if they are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a cool room with a temperature of 6-7°. Where it is important to prevent the fabric from drying out so as not to disturb the humidity regime.

Regardless of the method used, it is necessary to inspect vegetables every 3 days and remove damaged specimens.

Storing cucumbers indoors

Basic mistakes when storing crops

The home method of storing cucumbers has its own nuances. They came up with all kinds of ways to increase the shelf life of cucumbers, while making the most serious mistakes. Among the most incorrect pieces of advice, the following stand out.

  • Packing the fruits in cellophane where there is no air access to the cucumbers. With such storage, a microenvironment quickly forms, which leads to the spread of rot.
  • Filling a vegetable tray or container with cucumbers and other fresh fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. The substance provokes biochemical processes that accelerate the overripening of greens.
  • You cannot leave containers with cucumbers in a lit room. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the skin changes color and yellowness appears.
  • Fruits should only be placed in boxes or boxes when they are dry. If the harvest took place during the rain, then you need to give it time to dry. Wet cucumbers quickly wither and rot.
  • Before preparing the fruits for storage, they are kept for several days at room temperature. This is a mistake; the picked fruits should be prepared as quickly as possible and sent to the refrigerator or cellar.

Proper storage of cucumbers
Building a greenhouse is not at all difficult, since the choice of materials allows you to choose the optimal design option. For residents of regions with harsh climates, growing any crop is quite problematic, but greenhouse conditions allow them to replenish their diet with fresh vegetables for 4-6 months. Proper storage will extend the period of replenishment of the body with vitamins and minerals, which cucumber is rich in.

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