Necessary equipment
One of the important issues for a gardener is the choice of greenhouse and its location. The greenhouse is chosen so that it is spacious in size and provides vegetables for the whole family. The optimal ratio of volume to area is 2:1. The height in the greenhouse should be on average 2 meters (more towards the center, less at the sides). The average height of the ridge is 2.5 meters.
A lower height is undesirable, since cucumber vines grow to 3-3.5 meters during the season. And it is not advisable to do it higher, since the air will warm up more slowly. The greenhouse must have a ventilation system. Ideally, it would be automatic.
The greenhouse is placed on a flat surface or with a slight slope to the south. The direction of the greenhouse is the same: from north to south, for better lighting of the plants. A container is placed in the greenhouse to water the cucumbers only with warm water.
Features of the microclimate
Microclimate plays a huge role in plant development
In a closed greenhouse, when planting cucumbers and in the process of further caring for them, an optimal microclimate must be established.
Temperature indicators
The temperature in the greenhouse when growing cucumbers should be stable, without sharp fluctuations, within 25' - 28'. For grown and strengthened cucumber bushes, it is permissible to lower it to 18' and increase to 30'.
Lighting
Of no small importance indoors is lighting, which is maintained at the required level in autumn and winter through the use of additional sources of artificial light.
Humidity
As the temperature in the greenhouse increases, it is necessary to increase the humidity level, which on a hot day should be at least 85%. It is possible to increase the amount of moisture in a greenhouse by watering the paths and then creating a greenhouse effect with the doors to the greenhouse closed for an hour.
Air circulation
Ventilating a closed greenhouse space provides access to air that does not pass through artificial polycarbonate well. During the warm season, it is recommended to keep the windows of polycarbonate greenhouses open, but do this on one side of the structure so as not to create drafts.
Choosing a variety for indoor soil
Self-pollinating or parthenocapic cucumber varieties are suitable for indoor soil. Both do not need bees. Plants set fruit in closed ground conditions without external intervention. But the process of ovary formation itself occurs in different ways.
Self-pollinating cucumbers are those in which pollination occurs as a result of pollen being transferred from the stamens to the pistil within one flower. In this case, the plant does not have female and male flowers, and accordingly, there are no barren flowers.
Parthenocapic is translated as “virgin”, that is, the cucumber sets without pollination. In adulthood, parthenocapic fruits are always distinguished by their appearance. They have virtually no seeds. And if they exist, they are very tiny, in their infancy.
Among self-pollinating varieties there are varieties and hybrids. The variety differs from a hybrid in that it is a fairly stable form that transmits its basic qualities through the seeds. If you buy a variety of cucumber once, you can plant it year after year, collecting the seeds yourself. Its varietal characteristics will be preserved.
Currently, hybrids are more common; they are designated in their names as F1. Such cucumbers do not transmit their qualities through seeds, so gardeners have to buy them every year. If this is not done, then splitting occurs in the second generation, and it is not known exactly what characteristics will appear as a result.
Let's consider several popular varieties and hybrids for greenhouses and greenhouses:
- Adam F1. Dutch self-pollinating high-yielding hybrid. Valued for setting fruit very early. In just a month and a half you can start harvesting. The second undoubted advantage is the extended fruiting period. Cucumbers are arranged 5-7 together. With insufficient care, 2-4 fruits are tied in the knot. Cucumbers grow not only beautiful in appearance: dark, small, with small thorns. They are delicious both prepared and fresh.
- Zyatek F1. A very popular parthenocapic hybrid. It is loved for its early ripening, the first fruits appear already on the 40th day. The bouquet arrangement of the ovaries is also appreciated. The cucumbers of this hybrid are gherkin-type, cylindrical in shape. They do not grow large; growth stops at 14-16 cm. The fruits of this variety are tasty and productive.
- F1 is the envy of everyone. Despite the fact that this hybrid appeared relatively recently, it has already become popular among gardeners due to its super-yielding and bunched arrangement of fruits. The variety's lashes are powerful. They develop right up to frost and produce an excellent harvest on the side shoots. The thin skin makes it possible to use these fruits both fresh and pickled.
- Well-fed dad F1. One of the salad varieties for indoor soil. Long, smooth, cylindrical fruits are suitable for salad and fresh consumption. This variety is not suitable for whole-fruit canning, but it is just right for preparing lecho and other preparations where chopped fruits are needed. Just like the previous ones, this variety has bunched ovaries, is early ripening and disease resistant.
- Ecole F1. One of the new, very successful parthenocapic hybrids. This cucumber is suitable for those who can preserve pickles (greens 3-6 cm). That is why it can be picked within 35-38 days after the first shoots appear. Ecole's greens are smooth, cylindrical, and grow in bunches. They are collected every day so that they do not overgrow.
- Chinese cold-resistant F1. From the popular series of long and sweet cucumbers. It is suitable for growing in greenhouses, where it is easier to tie it up. Its lashes are powerful and grow quickly. The fruits themselves reach half a meter in length. Smooth and tasty cucumbers can be used in salads or prepared into slices for the winter.
The labels on the bags of cucumbers “Parthenocapic (self-pollinating)” are incorrect. A variety or hybrid can be one or the other. Most often we are talking about parthenocapics.
Choosing a greenhouse
Greenhouse structures have been presented in a wide range in recent years. Of all the options, polycarbonate greenhouses are perhaps the most affordable. Manufactured using modern technologies from high-quality materials, adapted to the various climatic conditions of our country, they have proven themselves excellent among gardeners.
It must be taken into account that the normal, healthy growth of plants is influenced by the temperature and humidity conditions maintained indoors. You can regulate these indicators yourself or install automatic systems in the greenhouse for watering, ventilation, maintaining the required temperature level, and lighting.
Soil preparation
The preparatory planting process begins with the soil. If you grow cucumbers through seedlings, then first you need to prepare or buy a special mixture in which you will plant the seeds.
Cucumbers love loose and fertile soil, which means that they need the same soil for sowing seeds. The soil should not only be light, but also moisture-retaining, which is very important for cucumbers who like to “drink.” That is why it is better to exclude peat from the composition or use it in small quantities. Store-bought soil, which most often contains a lot of peat, begins to dry out quickly at home.
Watch the acidity, it is peat that has an acidic reaction. In order for cucumbers to develop normally, the pH level should be approximately 6.5-7.
Composition of the substrate for cucumber seedlings:
- turf soil - 3 parts;
- humus or fully matured compost - 2 parts;
- sand - 1 part.
This mixture must be sifted so that there are no large parts. The mixture can be heated in the oven for 10-20 minutes or frozen. It is best to prepare the mixture in advance, in the fall, and put it in a bag. Place the bag on the balcony to kill pathogens. Before sowing, add a liter of vermiculite to the mixture bucket for looseness, a glass of ash and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate.
Properly preparing seeds for sowing
Previously, before germination, gardeners performed a procedure such as heating the seeds. This is long-term heating of dry seeds near heating devices at a temperature of 30-35 degrees.
Such events have a positive effect on increasing the formation of female flowers in all pumpkin plants.
When preparing self-pollinating and parthenocapic hybrids for sowing, the seeds do not need to be heated, since they do not have the problem of forming barren flowers.
Nowadays, seeds that have already been treated with thiram are often sold. Information is contained on the packaging. The seeds are colored poisonous green as a warning about the toxicity of the applied substance. Thiram is a fungicide that is used against a complex of diseases. Such seeds are not soaked or germinated.
If you have ordinary seeds, then they need to be treated with some kind of fungicide or a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. When there are many varieties, you need to put them in gauze bags and place them in the prepared solution for 15-20 minutes.
After this, you need to wash the seeds and start germination. Germination does not affect the yield, but avoids planting empty seeds.
Before germination, the seeds should be placed in a small amount of water for several hours or overnight to swell. The water should cover the seeds a little so that they do not “suffocate”. There is no need to harden cucumbers because they do not have the cold tolerance gene.
Advantages of the seedling method:
- allows you to get results earlier than when sowing seeds;
- the plant will grow and become stronger in comfortable conditions;
- sorting is possible: you can see which plants develop better and which worse;
- some seeds do not germinate immediately or freeze during seedling growth.
Plants of the same height will be easier to care for. The rest can be planted in a corner so that plants of the same type grow in one place. Such measures will allow you to get an early and healthy harvest.
Growing seedlings
In order for growing seedlings to become an advantage, you need to try to do it correctly. Cucumbers ready for planting should not be overgrown, strong, and without signs of disease. The ideal option is 3-4 sheets.
For sowing, take separate cups at once so that the root system is formed correctly. If this is not possible, then seeds are planted in trays at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Seeds must be properly prepared and germinated. The sprouts are small, so-called “beaks”, so as not to break them.
Before planting, the hole in which the seed is placed is spilled with hot water and a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sprinkle the cucumber seed on top with loose soil in a 2 cm layer.
If possible, cover the container with cucumbers with a damp rag or plastic bag for 1-3 days until seedlings appear.
Preparing soil in a greenhouse
Cucumbers love loose and fertile soil. This is what fertile loams are. Clay is too heavy for them and lacks breathability. The sand is loose, but it does not hold water, and without it, cucumbers will not grow. As a last resort, sandy loam is suitable, to which you can add a little heavy clay soil to balance the composition.
In a greenhouse, you need to prepare the soil in advance. You can plant green manure immediately after harvesting vegetables, and dig up with them before frost. The best option would be mustard greens. It will disinfect the soil and enrich it with valuable microelements.
With the onset of winter, you need to throw snow into the greenhouse so that in the spring moisture saturates the soil. After all the snow has melted, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up. The holes must be prepared in advance before planting seedlings. The ideal option is warm ridges, because cucumber is a very heat-loving crop.
They can be made both in autumn and spring. If this is not possible, then humus or compost mixed with ash and double superphosphate is placed in the prepared furrows or holes: half a glass of superphosphate and a liter of ash per bucket. Then sprinkle with 10-20 cm of loose soil.
If you change the soil in the greenhouse in the fall or spring, then you should take into account that you need to take the soil from those areas where the day before you grew vegetables that do not have common diseases with cucumbers: cabbage, onions, carrots, peppers or potatoes.
Transplanting
Seedlings are planted in the ground when the soil temperature reaches 15°C. This is a very important point. The air temperature in the greenhouse is important, but of secondary importance. Although any shelter for growing cucumbers should be equipped with a thermometer.
Cucumbers love warmth, and soil temperature is especially important to them. For objectivity, you need to take measurements in the morning. Experienced gardeners cover the place where the temperature will be measured with a board or plywood so that the place is not heated by the sun.
A thermometer is placed under the shelter to a depth of approximately 20 cm and left for 15-30 minutes. This way you get a fairly objective result. In order for the soil to heat up faster, it can be covered with plastic film, and also a warm ridge can be made.
But it starts to work only at a certain temperature, so you first need to spill it with hot water and then cover it with film. To activate biofuel on cold days, you will have to do this several times before the start of the season.
We plant seedlings like this. First, we make a hole in the hole already filled with fertilizers the size of the cucumber’s root system. We leave the distance between future plants about 40-60 cm. Then you need to pour warm water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
The seedlings must be buried to the cotyledon leaves or the first true one. The soil around is compacted a little, and the surrounding area can be sprinkled with dry soil.
You can additionally mulch the beds with cucumbers to retain heat in the soil.
What should the soil be like for growing sweet cucumbers?
Cucumber soil should be fertile, neutral or slightly acidic with a pH ranging from 6.2 to 7.0. In areas with acidic soil, it is recommended to add additional lime to normalize the acidity.
Soil deoxidizers
You can determine soil acidity using a simple method here >>>>>
The root system of cucumbers is undeveloped, superficial (at a depth of no more than 30 cm). For growing in open ground, the level of groundwater is not particularly important. Watering, fertilizing, and loosening are carried out in the top layer.
Mulching the soil will be very helpful for growing cucumbers >>>>>>
Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers
There is a reason why cucumbers and tomatoes are planted separately. Although some manage to get good results by growing them together. Cucumbers need special conditions to grow and have a good harvest: light, heat, humidity, watering and others. The growing conditions for cucumbers are almost the same as for all pumpkins.
Watering
Cucumber is a very responsive crop to watering. It must be regular, without this the harvest will not be good. In dry years, it may not exist at all, since the water is instantly absorbed by the soil. Watering in a greenhouse or hotbed should be done frequently; the leaves should not be allowed to wilt.
This feature is associated with the structure of the cucumber root system. It is located close to the soil surface, so the plant does not have the opportunity to take water from the depths, as, for example, tomatoes do. The health of the plant depends on how often you water it. In hot weather, when fruits are forming, this should be done every day.
Cucumbers are recommended to be irrigated using the sprinkling method. With this method, water is poured out in small drops, partially evaporating. This increases the air humidity in the greenhouse, which is very important for cucumbers. The soil is gradually saturated with water, which allows the roots to better absorb moisture.
Water consumption per 1 m2 is approximately 15-25 liters per day or every other day, depending on the weather. When fruits form, water consumption increases and amounts to 20-30 liters.
Do not water cucumbers with cold water. They used to say that this makes the fruits bitter. Now the fruits are genetically sweet, but cold water is not advisable for watering because it increases the likelihood of plant disease.
Feeding
We must not forget about fertilizing. Cucumbers grow rapidly, and modern hybrids produce very high yields. In order for the plant to be able to “feed” them, it is necessary to apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month, literally from the first days.
Fertilizers are organic and mineral. Organic are natural fertilizers. These include manure, green fertilizer from grass, ash, and chicken droppings. When growing seedlings, only ash is used from the listed fertilizers when preparing the substrate for sowing seeds.
Before planting in the ground, seedlings are fed 1-2 times with mineral fertilizers. Preference is given to nitrogen or complex ones with a predominance of nitrogen, because first the plant must increase its green mass and become stronger.
After planting in the ground, cucumbers are not fed for 2 weeks until the plant has completely taken root. In addition, there is usually enough nutrition in the holes. After this, you need to start “feeding” green fertilizer, a solution of mullein, chicken droppings and ash. From the beginning of flowering, potassium fertilizers are added.
Light mode
The time of fruiting, as well as the yield of cucumbers, depends on the intensity of light and the length of daylight hours. The second has a greater effect on plant growth. Cucumbers are short-day plants, so they need a 10-12 hour day to fully develop. During the period of growing seedlings, this is no less important. If there is not enough light, then conditions of 10-hour daylight hours are created using artificial lighting.
Temperature
Cucumber is a very heat-loving crop. If it's cold outside, you can't expect good harvests. In addition, the plants will be weakened, which will affect the increase in morbidity. The average temperature in the greenhouse should be maintained at 17°C. But for the first time after sowing, the temperature should be 25-28 degrees.
That's why it's better to grow cucumbers at home first. Severe cold spells have a negative impact on growth. But too high temperatures are also harmful to cucumbers.
If on hot days the temperature in the greenhouse is above 30C, then you need to ventilate and spray the plant to reduce the temperature.
Humidity
Cucumber has an increased need for air humidity. For cucumbers, this norm is 85-95%. If you compare it with peppers, the difference is very big. Peppers need a moisture content of 60-65%. At low humidity, the process of pollination and fruit set is significantly reduced.
Of the greenhouse crops, cucumber is perhaps the most moisture-demanding crop.
Ventilation
At first, when the cucumber seedlings are still small, you need to ventilate the rooms where they grow very carefully. Cucumbers do not tolerate drafts at all. And in the greenhouse it is necessary to ventilate, especially when the thermometer rises above 30C.
The windows are opened only on one side to avoid drafts.
Bush formation
In order for cucumbers to produce a bountiful harvest and bear fruit for a long time, the plant must be shaped correctly. There are a lot of opinions on this matter, but the overwhelming majority believes that formation is necessary.
Topping
Pinch the cucumber vines as follows:
- the first 40-50 cm - the shoots “blind” completely;
- pinch the next 40-50 cm above the first leaf;
- the next 40-50 cm above the second;
- then 40-50 cm above the third;
- and so on.
Some gardeners cut off the plants' tendrils to save energy. For the same purpose, not all ovaries are left; some are removed. If it is noticed that when fruits are formed in bunches, some do not have enough nutrition and they begin to dry out, then one fruit at a time is left in the axils. In this case, watering and fertilizing are increased.
It turns out like a “herringbone” in reverse. At the end of growth, under the roof, the plants set fruits freely. Some people pinch the whip under the roof so that it does not waste energy on growth. All potential is spent on the formation of fruits.
It has been noticed that without pinching, the yield is significantly reduced.
Stepsoning
Stepsons on cucumbers are only appropriate when the stepsons are removed at the beginning of growth, half a meter above the soil surface. There is no need to do this higher, since many large ovaries are located on the side shoots. The meaning of pinching is that the plant’s forces are released for further growth and development.
For this procedure, carefully bend the leaf and remove the shoot with a cloth or knives. Subsequently, the leaves at the bottom of the vine dry out and the main stem becomes bare. There are many root primordia on it. If you lay the stem in a ring, roots will begin to grow very quickly in this place and the cucumber will have additional nutrition.
Tying up
Cucumbers are tied up in a greenhouse for the following reasons:
- plants in this position are better illuminated by the sun;
- the lashes are ventilated and the cucumbers get sick less;
- they are easier to care for;
- plants do not intertwine with each other;
- Almost 100% of flowers and ovaries are preserved;
- watering and loosening are simplified;
- good visibility when picking fruit.
You need to start tying up the plant at one month of age, when its height reaches 30-40 cm. There are several types of materials from which ropes for cucumbers are made. Everyone chooses the best option for themselves. For some it is rags, for others it is nylon. Some people opt for synthetic twines, which are sold in hardware stores.
The length of one twine is 2-2.5 meters. One end is attached to the ceiling, and the other should freely go down. The lower end is carefully attached between the lower leaves. As the lash grows, it wraps clockwise around the twine.
Pest and disease control of cucumbers
Cucumbers, like all other plants, are susceptible to various diseases. Some of the most common ones will be discussed.
Root rot
Characterized by the appearance of yellowness and wilting. If you dig up part of the stem, you will find that it is cracked and brownish. To avoid this, it is necessary to water the plant only with warm water; when planting seeds, do not plant them very deeply. It is necessary to maintain the humidity regime, avoiding excessive waterlogging.
To get rid of rot on already damaged plants, expose the stem to the very root and sprinkle it with ash or chalk. You can also treat the plants with a solution consisting of 0.5 liters of water, 3 tbsp. l. lime and 1 tsp. copper sulfate.
Powdery mildew
The most common disease. It is characterized by the appearance of a white spot on the leaves, which subsequently covers the entire leaf blade.
This is most often associated with high humidity and density of crops, temperature changes, the presence of weeds, as well as watering with cold water.
This disease is eliminated by removing damaged leaves or treating them on both sides with liquid cow manure with urea, which is prepared based on 10 liters of warm water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp. l. urea. In addition to this solution, you can also use 0.3% colloidal sulfur (25-30 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water). It is also necessary to add potassium fertilizer.
Downy mildew
It is characterized by the appearance of yellow-green spots on the leaves.
The cause of the disease is constant moisture condensation - fog or dew, sudden changes in day and night temperatures, as well as cold watering.
To combat this disease, it is necessary to treat with a solution of potassium permanganate, or a solution of urea - 1 g per liter of water. You can also prepare whey with iodine: add 1 liter of milk and 10 drops of iodine to 10 liters of water.
Among chemical preparations, the fungicide “Rizoplan” is recommended.
Cladosporiosis
This is a viral disease that affects fruits.
It is characterized by the appearance of small watery spots on the fruit. Cause of the disease: the use of old plastic film, high humidity and the presence of weeds.
Control methods include treatment with Bordeaux mixture, stopping watering for 6-7 days and applying fertilizers containing potassium sulfate.
As for pests of cucumbers, melon aphids are common among them.
To get rid of this pest, use a soap solution to which onion peels are added (50 g of soap and 500 g of peel are added to 10 liters of boiled water) or a mixture of ash per bucket of water - 250 g of ash, 60 g of soap. Processing is carried out twice every five days.
Among chemical preparations, Fitoverm in ampoules and Iskra in tablets are good options. After treatment, the area must be covered with polyethylene for a day.
Spider mites are also very common.
To combat it, measures such as moistening the soil, removing weeds are used, and it is also necessary to replace the top fertile layer every year.
An effective method is to spray cucumbers with an onion mixture containing 1 cup of finely chopped onion, 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water. a spoonful of liquid soap and black pepper (ground), 3 tbsp. spoons of wood ash (ash). Treat with this solution twice every five days.
You can also prepare an infusion: add 60 g of finely grated hot pepper, 5 tbsp. to a bucket of water. spoons of ash and 1 tbsp. spoon of soap.
Other pests and ways to combat them are discussed in this video.
Harvesting
Oddly enough, the regularity of harvesting affects the harvest itself. If cucumbers are not picked on time, they grow and develop further. The plant spends nutrients on them. Especially a lot of microelements go into the formation of seeds.
Therefore, the greens are collected when they reach a size of 10-15 cm. They are picked carefully, holding the whip with one hand so as not to damage them.
During the period when plants begin to bear fruit en masse, cucumbers are harvested once every 1-2 days, depending on the area of the greenhouse.
All diseased, dry and crooked fruits are removed without waiting for them to grow, as they deplete the plant.
Advantages and challenges of greenhouse cultivation
Planting cucumbers in greenhouses allows you to get early harvests, extend fruiting periods and achieve maximum productivity. The use of stationary shelters allows you to create significantly better temperature conditions for the growth and development of plants, facilitate their care, and save space on the site due to vertical cultivation of crops. In protected ground, cucumbers are grown both by seedlings and without seedlings - with seeds sown in a greenhouse.
In heated (winter) greenhouses, crops can be obtained almost all year round
Owners of polycarbonate greenhouses, despite the high cost of such structures, note that structures of this type have a number of advantages:
- maximum sunlight transmission;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- plasticity of the material, that is, the ability to give the structure any shape;
- high resistance to moisture and temperature changes;
- service life more than 20 years;
- attractive appearance.
In greenhouse conditions, plants often suffer from diseases and pests. Unfortunately, even their high degree of tolerance to typical cucumber diseases does not relieve the owner from the need for regular preventive measures .
Experienced gardeners consider it necessary to update the greenhouse soil once every 3-5 years, replacing the top depleted layer (10-15 cm) with fresh fertile soil
The most important of them are:
- installation of ventilation equipment;
- painting metal structures indoors;
- annual disinfection of all hard-to-reach places with solutions of copper sulfate (200 g per 10 l of water) or potassium permanganate (2-4 g per 10 l of water);
- fumigating the premises with sulfur or tobacco sticks in the intervals between the end of harvesting and planting seedlings (new plants can be planted 2 weeks after treatment due to a violation of the acid-base balance of the soil);
- carefully checking the seedlings, observing the recommended distances between plants when planting in a permanent place;
- cleaning last year's tops and compost heaps, especially near greenhouses and beds;
- treating the soil with antifungal and antibacterial drugs, since in the soil, even frozen over the winter, fungal spores, eggs and larvae of pests that can cause various diseases and lead to the death of plants can remain.
