Soil for potatoes, which one is best suited, how to prepare it correctly

The optimal soil acidity for potatoes is 5.2–5.7 pH. If the acidity is too high (pH < 4.5), then the soil usually contains an excess amount of aluminum, which makes it difficult for plants to absorb potassium, magnesium, phosphorus and calcium. The roots cannot absorb water properly, grow slowly, thicken, and branch poorly.

At low acidity (pH > 7), beneficial microelements form insoluble compounds. Potatoes growing on alkaline soils do not absorb magnesium, phosphorus, boron, and zinc well. In addition, potatoes need a lot of nitrogen. And the bacteria that enrich the soil with it develop most quickly in a slightly acidic environment.

Features of soil for potatoes

The success of growing potatoes is largely determined by the soil. If soil fertility is easily increased by applying fertilizers, then parameters such as density and acidity can cause difficulties for a novice vegetable grower.

What kind of soil do potatoes like?

Loamy soil is most suitable for potatoes - quite fertile with a granular-lumpy structure, but good water and air conductivity.

The properties are similar to sandy loam. In its lightness and plasticity, such soil resembles sandstone, but it is more fertile, as it is able to retain mineral and organic substances.

A good harvest can be obtained on peat soils and black soils. Chernozem is the most fertile soil with a high content of humus (up to 15%), potassium, as well as organic and mineral compounds that allow the production of phosphorus, nitrogen, and sulfur. The structure is granular-lumpy.

Peat soils are not rich in humus; they quickly absorb water, but also quickly release it. They do not warm up well and often have high acidity. However, peatlands are easy to cultivate due to their ability to retain mineral fertilizers.

Less suitable than others for growing potatoes:

What soil acidity should be for potatoes?

Potatoes prefer a middle ground - soil that is not too acidic and not too alkaline. The ideal pH range is 5.1 to 6.0. Such soil is usually called slightly acidic.

Too acidic soil makes it difficult for vegetables to absorb nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus and calcium. As a rule, such soil is very heavy, so the plant has difficulty accessing water, and the roots do not have enough space to branch well. In conditions of high acidity, pathogens actively multiply.

Alkaline soils are characterized by the presence of minerals in a poorly soluble form, so potatoes may suffer from deficiencies of magnesium, iron, boron and zinc. Alkaline soil reaction is typical for arid steppe and forest-steppe regions.

Types of peat and methods of its use

Botanists classify a given rock based on the depth at which its components occur. The first is the “upper” one, which has not yet had time to decompose. It contains various plants, such as moss. The second level is “low”, which is 100% decomposed. Its structure contains processed plant residues. The third level is intermediate (transitional). As the name itself suggests, it is located between the first two types.

How to determine soil type and acidity

The type of soil in a summer cottage depends on its density, moisture capacity, water and air permeability . To determine the mechanical composition, a lump of earth is moistened and rolled between the palms into a sausage. Sandy and sandy loam soil crumbles immediately - no shape can be formed from it. Clay soil and loam are plastic. To distinguish them from each other, the resulting sausage is folded into a ring: if it works, we have heavy alumina, but if the ring cracks, it’s loam.

The acidity indicator affects the mineral composition of the soil: nutrients in conditions of extremely high or low pH are either absent or are in a form that is difficult for plants to absorb.

The most reliable way to find out the acid-base reaction of the soil is to contact a specialized laboratory or use a kit for independent digital analysis. However, there are other methods.

Traditional methods

Vegetable growers among the people recommend:

Please note that these methods are not accurate and may produce distorted results.

litmus test

A set of litmus paper is an affordable and more reliable way to determine pH:

It is recommended to take at least 10 samples. If they give different results, the average value is taken as the true one.

How to get rock

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The fastest way to extract peat is the one that lies as close to the surface as possible. To do this, use the milling or piece method. Milling mining technology involves obtaining a resource using short cycles. Take a milling drum, which is used to process the top layer of soil. Cultivation depth – 20 mm. Immediately after being removed from the soil, the peat is dried and then stacked.

The second mining technology is called lump mining. Here you cannot do without the help of special equipment - an excavator. The development depth is up to 800 cm. First, peat is removed to the surface with a bucket, and then bricks are created from the resulting mass. This method of resource extraction is relevant only in farm conditions. In addition, you can use peat as a fertilizer for planted potatoes, which are obtained in any convenient way. This technology is called “transitional”.

Features of soil deoxidation

For deoxidation, substances with an alkaline reaction are used:

The frequency and rates of alkalization depend on the initial pH, soil density and the amount of humus in the soil. On heavy clay soils, the deoxidation effect will last longer, so the preparations are applied in larger quantities, but at intervals of 5-7 years.

Reference. Green manure plants also help level out acidity: vetch, phacelia, rye, lupine, oats, and legumes. However, the site needs to be sown with them in advance - during the autumn soil preparation.

Potato planting dates

Potatoes are planted in open ground in good, warm weather at the end of April or beginning of May, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 10 degrees, and birch leaves grow the size of a small coin.

The best predecessors of potatoes are:

• cucumbers;
• beet;
• cabbage;
• greenery;
• green manure.

You should not plant potatoes after tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, sweet peppers and other members of the nightshade family.

How to acidify the soil

If the soil reaction is closer to alkaline, organic fertilizers are added to it: compost with the addition of rotted pine needles and sawdust, high peat, fresh manure.

Organic matter delicately acidifies the soil, additionally making the soil looser and more breathable. If you need a quick result, use mineral compounds: ferrous sulfate, ammonium nitrate.

Reference. Colloidal sulfur significantly lowers pH, but acts slowly, so it is applied mainly during autumn digging (100 g per 1 sq. m). Also come with ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate.

Green manure for potatoes

Digging with the addition of organic and mineral compounds can be replaced by the use of green manure plants. Mowing them in early spring helps enrich the top layer of soil with useful nutrients.

Green manures serve as natural fertilizers and a means of harmonizing the composition and structure of the soil. Improves its fertility.

1. Legumes saturate the beds with nitrogen. In combination with asteraceae and cruciferous plants, they prevent erosion and the spread of weeds.
2. Simple combinations of legumes and cruciferous crops in plantings help loosen dense soils. In combination with Asteraceae, they successfully reduce the population of nematodes. Plants from the mustard moth family remove phosphoric acid salts from the ground.
3. Cereal green manure mixed with cruciferous vegetables prevents mineralization and saturates the soil with nitrogen.
4. Crescent and rapeseed are the easiest green manures to grow. After such plants, the amount of organic compounds in the soil increases. Oilseed radish prevents weathering and the breakdown of mineral salts.

Ways to improve soil quality

Knowing the characteristics of the soil, you can significantly improve its quality:

Fertilizers

Fertilizers are divided into organic and mineral. The former are valued for their naturalness, ease of absorption, and rich chemical composition. Mineral mixtures are good when you need to add one or more substances in a certain dosage.

When planting potatoes, first of all, nitrogen-containing compounds are used, as they accelerate the growth of green mass in plants:

However, the most important element for potatoes is potassium, and it is better in sulfate form. In turn, potassium is well absorbed if used in conjunction with phosphate fertilizers: phosphate rock, simple and double superphosphate, as well as in the form of combined mixtures - “Nitrophoska” and “Nitroammofoskie”.

Reference. These fertilizers are applied evenly over the area of ​​the area for digging or directly into the hole during planting.

Green manure

Green manure is used:

In spring, sowing of green manure begins immediately after the snow melts. For this purpose, cold-resistant plants are chosen, since they must sprout in low temperature conditions, and by the time the potatoes are planted, they must already have mature shoots. Mustard, rapeseed, rye, oats, and phacelia meet the stated requirements. If you plan to grow green manure at the same time as potatoes in the inter-rows, the choice falls on legumes, calendula and nasturtium.

To repel insects and prevent diseases, mustard and colza are used against wireworms and late blight, and flax against the Colorado potato beetle.

Reference. The ideal spring green manure before planting potatoes is phacelia. It is frost-resistant, loosens the soil well, increasing its breathability, reduces soil acidity, helps in the fight against root-knot nematodes, repels locusts, suppresses the spread of root rot and late blight, and displaces weeds.

Disinfection

To protect potatoes from pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, tubers and soil are treated:

For more reliable protection, industrially produced fungicides are used: Fitosporin, Quadris, Maxim, Immunocytofit, Prestige and others. When using them, you must follow the directions on the package exactly and do not exceed the recommended dose.

Ash is an excellent fertilizer of natural origin. It has an impressive chemical composition, in which calcium and potassium occupy a special place.

The main purpose of ash before planting potatoes is to increase the plant’s resistance to various diseases and to disinfect the soil. Good results are obtained by applying fertilizer directly into the hole.

Attention! Ash does not combine well with fresh mullein, so it is better not to use them at the same time. But it is effective in combination with peat and compost.

Loosening

Potatoes love loose, oxygen-filled soil. In such conditions, nothing interferes with the development of its root system and the formation of large tubers.

Loosening the soil before planting potatoes should be thorough - to a depth of 15 to 30 cm. It is advisable to loosen alumina and loam in two steps to avoid stagnation of water. The area is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet, then the clods of earth are broken up with a rake.

Reference. Sometimes ordinary loosening and digging is not enough. Then the heavy soil is lightened by adding sand, crushed sifted bricks, and plant residues burned together with the soil.

Diseases, pests and control methods

Late blight is very important for growing potatoes. The plant can be affected by 23 types of viruses, 6 types of bacteria, 9 aphids and 119 other insect pests, 68 worms and about 40 types of fungi. Here are some of them:

• Late blight is a fungal disease that affects leaves, stems and tubers. Spraying of tops with chemicals is required;
• Rhizoctonia is a fungal disease that affects leaves, stems and tubers. It is necessary to prevent the formation of a crust on the ground;

  
  Rhizoctoniosis

  Read also:  Classification of cherry tomatoes. Names and descriptions of varieties
• Common scab affects young tubers. The infected area is sown with lupine for a year;
• Macrosporiosis - affects leaves, stems and tubers. A large amount of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers is required;
• Wireworm – damages potato tubers. Alternate planting of potatoes and, for example, sunflowers in one area;
• Potato cancer is a fungal disease that affects tubers. Cultivation of disease-resistant varieties;
• The Colorado potato beetle, the most famous pest, destroys the leaves of the potato bush. Manual collection of insects and their larvae is required;
• The potato nematode is a pest that feeds on the root system and tubers of potatoes. Alternating planting of the root crop in question and, for example, corn in one area;
• Cutworm caterpillars damage the plant itself and the tubers. Requires chemical treatment

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Potato varieties for different soil types

If you have a plot of land, then most likely you have either already grown potatoes on it or are planning to do so. This root crop is so popular that everyone wants to plant it, believing that they won’t have to worry too much about it, any soil is suitable for potatoes, and there will be a harvest in any case.

In fact, potatoes are a very capricious vegetable. It’s only at first glance that everything is simple: you dug a hole, threw a tuber in there, covered it with earth - and that’s the whole technology. But a fastidious crop will not produce a harvest in every soil, and it will not be content with a waste spot on the plot either.

Growing healthy potatoes with good yields is not at all easy. An integrated approach is important here, including selection of a planting site, application of fertilizers, selection of seeds and pest control. Let's start with the basics.

Choose a variety for your soil type

The choice of variety depends on what soil to plant potatoes in.

What kind of soil do potatoes need?

If you were previously interested in this issue, then all sources provided the same information: potatoes love light and loose soil. Of course, there are ideal soils for growing vegetables, but most likely your site is not one of them. The soil for potatoes is good loamy or sandy loam. An excellent potato harvest can be achieved if the soil is peat or black soil.

The soil is not suitable for potatoes if it is heavy clay. It is easy to determine - water stagnates on the surface during snow melting or after heavy rainfall. Sandy soil is also not favorable for vegetables. However, on such land it is also possible to plant root crops and get a fairly good harvest; all that is required is painstaking pre-planting preparation for improvement and more careful care.

Regarding the location of the potato field, here it is worth choosing an area free from dense shade; one where the sun does not shine at all is not suitable, because the plants may turn yellow, be driven out of growth, and have poor flowering. You will either get a small harvest or too small tubers. Ideally, an open sunny plantation is protected from the north or northeast by shrubs.

In addition, the ideal soil for potatoes is slightly acidic. The weeds on the site will help us determine the degree of acidity. Don't be surprised, they are an excellent indicator of the quality of the fertile layer. Dandelion, wheatgrass, clover, chamomile, and coltsfoot thrive in the soil that potatoes love.

There is another popular way to determine the location for potatoes. To do this, take 4 leaves of bird cherry and brew them with a glass of boiling water. Let's wait until the infusion cools down and throw a lump of earth from the plot into it. Based on the resulting color of the mixture, it is easy to determine what kind of acidity the soil on which you decide to plant potatoes has: red shades - the soil is acidic, a greenish color will indicate a slightly acidic environment, which is what we need, a blue tone will indicate neutral acidity. The indicated acidity should not scare you away from planting potatoes; it can be corrected by applying various fertilizers.

So, we found out that if you really want to, potatoes can be grown on any soil, but the labor costs will be different if you have the same desire to get a harvest.

In the video, the gardener tells and shows how to use traditional methods to determine the acidity of the soil on the site.”

New ways to plant potatoes in open ground

Planting potatoes under black film or non-woven material

On a pre-prepared and dug up area, lay out a black film or black non-woven material, the edges of which are secured so as not to be blown away by the wind. Next, I make cross-shaped cuts on it in rows or in a checkerboard pattern. Under the cuts, holes are dug in the ground, into which the sprouted tubers are placed and covered with soil.

This planting method does not require weeding and hilling; it is best used for growing early potatoes in the northern or central regions.

Planting potatoes in barrels

You will need a barrel with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60 cm, in which you need to remove the bottom and make many holes in the walls for air access. A pipe for drip irrigation is installed in the center of the barrel, into which water must be added as the soil dries.

The barrel is placed on moistened, loosened and fertilized soil with humus and ash in a well-lit place. Sprouted root vegetables are placed at the bottom of the barrel at a distance of 20 cm from each other, and then covered with fertile soil in a layer of up to 10 cm.

When the first shoots appear, the stems up to the first leaves are again covered with soil with a layer of about 10 cm. This filling is continued until the barrel is completely filled with soil. When the crop is ripe, the barrel is tipped over and the potatoes are collected.

This method is applicable when the area of ​​land for growing potatoes is limited.

Planting potatoes on a cone

To an area with a diameter of 2 meters you need to add several buckets of humus and a glass of ash per 1 m2, then dig it up and moisten it. Along the edge of the round bed, you need to place the sprouted potatoes at a distance of 25 cm from each other and cover them with a 5-6 cm layer of soil.

After a while, the stems need to be hilled up by raking soil to the stem of the plant 40 cm high in the form of a mound, on top of which a funnel up to 20 cm deep is made. Thus, water will feed the bushes.

Thanks to this growing method, you can get a very good harvest.

Chinese method of planting potatoes

For planting using the Chinese method, medium-sized tubers are required, which need to be cut out from the middle, leaving a bridge with a diameter of 1 cm, and then germinate.

To plant potatoes, you should prepare a trench 75 cm wide, 40-50 cm deep and 2 cm long, onto the bottom of which you need to evenly pour 1 bucket of humus, a handful of ash and 30 grams of superphosphate, mixing them with the ground. Then you need to lay out the sprouted potatoes along the length of the trench in one row and cover them with a 5-6 cm layer of soil.

When sprouts appear and the stems reach 10 cm in height, the bushes need to be covered with soil with the addition of humus and ash up to the first leaf, laying the stems of the bush in different directions. Thus, backfilling is carried out as the stems grow until the hole is completely filled with soil.

Planting potatoes in boxes

The area where green manure grew (mustard is best) needs to be dug up in the fall. You should also prepare wooden boxes without a bottom of any length, 30 cm high and 100-120 cm wide. They need to be arranged so that the distance between them is 70 cm.

For the winter, 1/3 of the box is filled with organic matter (weeds, tops, etc.), and in the spring a 10 cm layer of moistened soil with the addition of humus and ash is added on top. Sprouted potatoes are laid out in a row at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other, sprinkled with a 5-6 cm layer of soil.

When the sprouts grow 10-12 cm in length, the bushes should be sprinkled with hay or chopped straw up to the first leaves. As the stems grow, it is necessary to add mulch until the box is completely filled.

How to prepare the soil for planting

Potatoes bear fruit well if the soil is loose, moist and well ventilated, so we will proceed from these parameters as ideal for soil for potatoes.

Treatment of the planting site should begin in the fall. The selected area is freed from tops of previous plants and weeds. Then it is carefully dug up and the layer of earth is turned over. You should dig with a full bayonet shovel. The plowing should not be leveled; this is done specifically so that in winter the pests entrenched in the ground will die from the cold.

Additionally, you can build shallow furrows to drain excess moisture in early spring, this is especially true for clay soils.

In the spring, the area is loosened with a rake; this process is done when the soil dries out and begins to crumble. After this, the soil for the potatoes will retain spring moisture. When the sun sufficiently warms the top layer, the area is dug up, loosened and leveled. Light soils do not need to be dug in the spring; it will be enough to loosen the soil, saturating it with oxygen.

It must be remembered that the purpose of spring cultivation is to create loose soil for potatoes, destroy weeds, pests and preserve valuable spring moisture. Another aspect of treatment is the application of fertilizers and placing them at the desired depth of the formation.

Potatoes are demanding of soil in terms of fertility. It extracts from the soil varying amounts of microelements it needs for normal growth and productivity. Different soil types will require different fertilizer applications. The factor of pre-cultivation of soil for potatoes also plays a role: if you have thoroughly loosened the soil in compliance with the rules described above, then the plant will require less nutrients for growth and development at the initial stage, because you have eliminated unfavorable factors that impede the normal development of the vegetable.

We will give approximate fertilizer rates per 1 hundred square meters:

Wood ash has a good effect on increasing yield; it can be applied to any type of soil. 5-10 kg per hundred square meters is enough for the soil for potatoes to be enriched with a whole ensemble of useful substances and minerals.

Manure or compost, as well as superphosphate, must be added to the soil under potatoes when digging in the spring. These fertilizers are laid to a depth of approximately half a shovel.

Nitrogen fertilizers or others chosen by you are not applied all at once, but in several stages. Half of the norm goes into the soil for potatoes with harrowing after digging. The remaining part should be divided in half and applied before hilling the bushes, when they reach 15-20 cm, and again during the budding period.

Loosening the soil in spring

Preparing the soil for planting potatoes Potatoes, or tuberous nightshade (from the Latin Solánum tuberósum), are a type of perennial plant... - the first step to getting a good result. In spring, the soil needs to be loosened - this is done without turning the soil, preferably in dry weather. Loosening occurs to a depth of 12-15 centimeters for sandy and sandy loam soils. If your soil is more clayey and moist, then it should be processed twice during preparation: first, the usual loosening of 12-15 centimeters in dry weather. The second time, immediately after planting, you should dig up the area to the full depth of the spade bayonet and level it with a rake. This process is necessary to rid the earth of excess moisture and enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

What kind of soil do potatoes like?

This crop grows best on loose, soft and fertile soil. These are becoming less and less common. Therefore, in order to get a good harvest, the land on the site needs to be prepared.

The best soil for growing tubers is sandy loam or loam; both options perfectly retain moisture and all nutrients. A good harvest can be obtained on black soil lands, as well as on peat areas. But clay soil is completely unsuitable for cultivating potatoes for the simple reason that water stagnates in it. Potatoes grow poorly on heavy soils. And sandy soils do not retain moisture and dry out too quickly, so they are also not suitable for obtaining a high yield of this crop. Trying to grow potatoes in sandy soil is a waste of time.

Acidity is also important to consider. Excessively acidic soil is not suitable for potatoes. In such areas, the tubers grow small, are often deformed, and have a very unmarketable appearance. These are definitely not suitable for sale. But slightly acidic soils are an excellent option for this vegetable. What soil acidity is acceptable for potatoes? The ideal pH ranges from 5.5-7.0.

If there is a lot of horsetail, plantain and moss growing on the site, then without a doubt the acidity there is exceeded. But clover, dandelion and wheatgrass grow where there is an acid-base balance. The presence of the mentioned weeds is a sign of suitable soil for planting the crop.

There is another excellent folk method for determining acidity. You need to take some bird cherry leaves and steam them with boiling water. As soon as the infusion has cooled a little, you should place a small lump of soil from the garden in it. He must purchase one of three shades:

It is the latter option that is ideal for growing a rich harvest.

In any garden, the acidity of the soil for potatoes can be reduced or increased through various fertilizers. Wood ash neutralizes acid, and calcareous materials (for example, dolomite flour) also help cope with the problem. Liming the soil for potatoes will improve its structure and reduce the leaching of microelements. But we must remember that this procedure is resorted to only in extreme cases.

Soil fertility

The soil is considered fertile if it provides the crops that grow on it with all the nutrients throughout the growing season. It contains enough humus, mineral salts, vitamins, and moisture. It is well heated by the sun and retains water.

Fertility is affected not only by the thickness of the upper humus, but also by the composition of the deep layers and the location of groundwater. Fertility can be natural, virgin, or artificially created by man.

For planting garden crops, the depth of humus is important. Chernozems are distinguished by an upper fertile layer more than 1 m thick. Humus on loams and sandy loams is much less. It is quickly depleted. It needs to be updated regularly; the area is landscaped with rotted compost.

Soil is a living organism. Under natural conditions, the fertile layer is constantly renewed. A variety of microorganisms, anaerobes, which are found in the upper layer, process organic matter, leaves, stems, fruits of plants, insects and animals that have fallen into the soil.

The structure, physical and chemical properties, thermal characteristics, aeration, and water absorption depend on the amount of organic matter. If you test the soil by touch, you can identify granules in it. The quality of the soil is determined by their size and consistency:

• Chernozems have large, loose grains. They are well heated by the sun and give off heat to the plants. The granules are able to retain moisture, at the same time they contain large capillaries that are filled with air. Chernozem contains 15% humus, sulfur, potassium, phosphorus and other chemical elements that are necessary for the development of potatoes;
• such granules are absent in sandstones. The soils are considered light. The soil quickly absorbs water and heat. Mineral salts are washed out of it, and humus is not concentrated. Few plants adapt to sandstone. To plant garden crops on them, they are enriched with humus;
• Peat bogs are also light. They allow moisture to pass through well and dry quickly. Peat contains a lot of organic matter and minerals. They have good aeration, but poor heat transfer. Peat is a good insulation material. It is introduced into the soil mixture for planting winter crops and used as a leavening agent;
• Clay soil is considered heavy. The granules in it are also not detectable, vermicompost is practically absent. Clay retains moisture on the surface, preventing it from passing into the deeper layers. The areas become waterlogged, and the microorganisms that are responsible for the formation of humus cannot survive on them;
• The most favorable soil for potatoes is loam. They consist of medium-sized granules. They contain small capillaries that retain moisture and large capillaries that contain air. Sandy loams have similar properties. With regular addition of organic matter, the soil becomes favorable for potatoes and other cultivated plants. The soil is moderately light. It contains baking powder, sand, peat.

More on the topic: What kind of care does Lasunok potatoes require?

All components in the pit are laid in layers. It provides drainage so that moisture reaches the bottom. Each layer is treated with vermicompost, yeast or special preparations, such as “Gumi-Omi”, “Weaving Chernozem”. They stimulate compost rotting.

In a garden plot, the soil is quickly depleted, and the number of microorganisms and minerals decreases. Humus and mineral fertilizers are used for improvement. Humus is made in a compost pit. Compost consists of plants, food waste, manure, and bird droppings. A certain microclimate is maintained in the pit.

The temperature in the pit is maintained at 35 C, humidity 90%. The temperature in the pit can rise to 70 C, so the contents are stirred regularly. The soil cools and becomes saturated with oxygen; waste reheating occurs evenly.

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High-quality humus has a uniform structure and smells pleasantly of earth. It consists of medium-sized granules that are capable of holding both moisture and air in sufficient quantities.

Place on site

In order to harvest a high harvest of tubers at the end of summer, you need to choose the right location in the garden. This should be an unshaded place, protected from the wind by low bushes on the north side. Shaded areas are not suitable, the plants on them will become too elongated, the tops will grow thin, and the number of tubers will noticeably decrease.

Too low areas of the garden are also unsuitable for growing potatoes. In the spring, the snow melts late on them, so the soil for growing potatoes will take a long time to dry out. This will make early boarding difficult. Moisture will constantly accumulate in the low-lying parts of the garden throughout the growing season, so the tubers will begin to rot long before harvest.

Some summer residents try to plant seed material in the ground early in order to get an early harvest of tubers. This is not worth doing. The soil temperature for potatoes should be approximately 12-15 degrees. It is important to remember that in a illuminated area the earth warms up faster, and in a shaded area later.

Many gardeners choose the same place to grow potatoes from year to year. This is a grave mistake, since the soil is gradually depleted. You can grow potatoes in one place for up to 4-5 years, and then you need to apply crop rotation. This agrotechnical trick will help increase productivity. In general, the question of what kind of soil potatoes need can be answered simply - virgin soil. But it’s impossible to find an untouched piece of land every year. This is why competent gardeners practice crop rotation. Ideal predecessors for potatoes are: cabbage, greens, carrots, cucumbers, beets and grains. It is not advisable to plant tubers after eggplants, tomatoes and bell peppers.

If it is not possible to choose a new location, then preparatory work needs to be done.

What varieties of potatoes are there?

There are many varieties of potatoes, but it is best to choose zoned ones. The most common among them are:

• Riviera, Ariel, Bellarosa, Minevra - ultra-early varieties with a ripening period of up to 40 days;
• Impala, Rosalind, Dnepryanka, Red Scarlett, etc. – early varieties with a growing period of 50-60 days;
• Sineglazka, Nevsky, Zabava, etc. – mid-early varieties (up to 80 days);
• Sante, Picasso, Peter's Riddle - mid-season varieties (up to 95 days);
• Kuroda, Zdabytak, Desiree are medium-late varieties that ripen all summer (up to 110 days);
• Cardinal, Zarnitsa, Orbita – late varieties (more than 110 days);
• Tuleevsky, Picasso, Pai, Dauphine, Gurman are the most delicious varieties in the opinion of most gardeners;
• Reserve, Rocco - the most beautiful varieties, which, in addition to excellent taste and high yield, are distinguished by their attractive appearance.

Soil cultivation system for potatoes

The better the soil is prepared for planting, the higher the crop yield.

☀ Soil preparation consists of 2 main stages:

Preparing the soil for potatoes begins in the fall. During this period, the area is completely cleared of tops and weeds. The soil for potatoes in the fall needs deep digging without leveling. This must be done so that insect pests living in the ground freeze during winter frosts. In addition, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with manure. If the area is large, then fall plowing should be done with a plow.

Preparing the soil for potatoes in the spring continues. Light, airy soils do not need to be dug during this period; just loosening is enough. As soon as the soil dries out and begins to crumble, it must be loosened with a rake or special equipment. If the site is dominated by heavy soils, then in the spring the soil is dug up again and leveled. This can be done either with a shovel or with mechanized equipment. For example, use a cultivator.

☀ When working in spring, it is advisable to add fertilizers. Which ones exactly? Fertilizing the soil for potatoes depends on the type of land:

Soil fertilization for potatoes is calculated individually for each specific site. For 1 hundred square meters, approximately 2 quintals of manure, 1.5 kg of potassium ingredients, 2 kg of superphosphate, 2 kg of ammonium sulfate will be sufficient. These are indicators for fertile soils. The lower the fertility, the more fertilizer will be required.

Such pre-planting soil cultivation for potatoes will increase the yield in any area.

Motorized landing

Motorized landing

Recently, gardeners have begun to use motor cultivators, walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors for plowing the soil and planting potatoes. With the help of these machines, soil is prepared in the spring for planting potatoes. They are very convenient for plowing the ground. Next, after plowing, when do you need to plant potatoes? They plant almost immediately. In addition, if there is a plow, potatoes are planted with its help. This is done by two people. One person operates the cultivator, the second one lays out the tubers. The depth of plowing with a plow for potatoes is set to 30 cm.

Mini-tractors are used in small farms for plowing. It takes significantly less time to plow the ground for planting than if you do it manually.

Green manure

The soil after potatoes is depleted and loses its beneficial properties. You can enrich the soil not only with fertilizers, but also with green manure. This is a series of plants that help saturate the soil with microelements and other useful substances. What to sow after potatoes to improve the soil? You can choose the following green manures.

Soil cultivation after potatoes consists of removing plant residues, loosening and sowing green manure. In this case, several types of the above plants can be used simultaneously.

Rules for proper landing

Tilling the soil with copper sulfate in the spring for tomatoes

The soil is prepared for planting. Now you need to start preparing the seeds themselves. The root crop must be placed not only in carefully prepared, but also in well-warmed and dried soil. Otherwise, the tubers may freeze or rot. Both whole potatoes and separated ones are planted. Before planting, you need to sort out the tubers and get rid of rotten or diseased specimens. Potatoes should look healthy and free from blemishes. The best seed material is tubers weighing 50-90 g. Before planting, root crops must be properly processed and dried. In case of shortage of planting material, it is allowed to divide whole potatoes into several parts. The main thing is that there are sprouted shoots on each part. Dividing is done right before planting.

Important! Potatoes like having a lot of oxygen in the soil. The main way to enrich the soil with oxygen is by digging and loosening. This procedure is carried out twice a year: in the spring, immediately before planting, and in the fall, immediately after harvesting and clearing the land of old grass.

Now we need to consider how to prepare the soil in the fall after harvesting.

Who lives in the soil?

Pests can attack potatoes both from the air and secretly, underground. If the Colorado potato beetle, aphids and potato moths are visible, then pests of potato tubers in the soil are simply invisible. Wireworms, chafer larvae, golden nematodes and other enemies of the crop live in the ground. To prevent damage to the crop by these insects, it is necessary to treat the soil with insecticides in a timely manner. Those who do not like to use chemicals are recommended to take preventive measures. It consists of the following events:

Now you know in what soil potatoes grow best, and thanks to what agricultural practices you can increase their yield.

Source

Pre-planting preparation of tubers and planting methods

It is better to plant sprouted tubers: then the potatoes will sprout faster and be more resistant to pests. Before planting, potatoes are treated with growth stimulants or insecticides. The simplest preparations for disinfection are copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture.

Even in winter, you should consider how to increase potato yields using one of the effective planting methods.

You can arrange high beds, plant potatoes in mulch, grow them in bags or barrels, with or without hilling - there are no universal recommendations here: every gardener, experimenting, chooses the growing method that suits him.