Description of parthenocarpic cucumbers. How to grow them correctly?

Parthenocarpic cucumbers - this word is often found on packages of seeds, but not all gardeners know what it means, not even every seller can correctly explain what this word means. Most often you will be told that it means self-pollinating, but this is not true, parthenocarpic means “forming fruit without pollination.” Such plants are very convenient to grow in greenhouses. In the enclosed space of the greenhouse there are no pollinating insects; this is where parthenocarpic hybrids are superior to ordinary or self-pollinating species.

What are parthenocarpic cucumbers?

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are a type of cucumber crop that does not require pollination for the formation of ovaries. Most often, their vines have very few male flowers or none at all, but female flowers - in generous quantities. There are no seeds inside this type of fruit, so it will not be possible to collect them, and you will have to buy the seeds again the next season.

Harvesting

Parthenocarpics are cucumbers with abundant fruiting. Therefore, during mass ripening, daily harvesting of greens is recommended. Hybrids are resistant to overgrowth, many of them do not turn yellow or become deformed. But if you constantly delay the harvest of fruits, the overall yield decreases and the number of ovaries decreases.

The more often the harvest (preferably every day or every other day), the faster new fruits form and ripen. Zelentsy are suitable for storage in a cool place; they retain their taste and presentation for up to several weeks. Most parthenocarpic fruits are suitable for long-term transportation.

History of origin

In the 50s of the 20th century, breeders began to work on a hybrid of cucumbers so that its cultivation in a greenhouse would not cause difficulties in terms of pollination. The first results were emerald fruits about 40 cm long, which were not at all suitable for pickling and preservation.

Long-term work on parthenocarpy and various varieties during crossing led to the emergence of salad hybrids, eaten fresh, pickling varieties that do not lose their taste and aesthetic qualities during preservation.

In addition, thanks to the efforts of breeders, parthenocarpic cucumbers grow well and bear fruit not only in a greenhouse, but also in open ground, and on apartment balconies or window sills in houses.

Benefits of parthenocarpics

Cucumber seeds of these varieties are in demand in all regions. Advantages of parthenocarpics:

• produce fruits without pollination, regardless of insects, which is a condition for a stable harvest;
• you can produce crops on balconies, greenhouses, greenhouses, loggias;
• plants continuously bear fruit;
• excellent taste characteristics, because there are no seeds inside the fruit;
• devoid of bitterness;
• tolerate any disease well;
• there are varieties suitable for salting and pickling;
• When overripe they do not turn yellow.

Disadvantages of culture

Only some varieties of parthenocarpics are suitable for preservation and pickling. Disadvantages of culture:

• you can't get seeds;
• for planting in open ground you need to use certain varieties of parthenocarpic plants;
• additional care is needed (tying, pinching);
• high cost of parthenocarpic seeds;
• in case of accidental pollination, the fruits become twisted;
• in low light and excessive soil moisture they bear fruit poorly.

Differences between parthenocarpic and self-pollinating cucumbers

Parthenocarpic and self-pollinating cucumbers differ radically in the way the ovaries appear. The first type of plants, as already mentioned, does not require pollination at all to produce fruit, while the second type of cucumbers pollinate independently, that is, for the appearance of ovaries on them, pollination is fundamentally important.

In addition, parthenocarpic cucumbers in most cases do not have male flowers, but their presence is required on self-pollinating hybrids.

The similarity of both types of crops is that they do not require the presence of pollinating insects or other third parties to allow the transfer of pollen between flowers of both sexes.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Most parthenocarpic cucumbers are highly immune to infections and are little affected by pests. They rarely suffer from bacteriosis and are resistant to fungal infections. Most often, the appearance of diseases is associated with violations of care rules, improper watering, and lack of prevention.

For treatments during cultivation, the following preparations are recommended: Fitolavin-300, fungicides Fitosporin, Gamair. Spraying plants with folk remedies helps against pests: ash (in infusions and dry form), tobacco dust, a mixture of hot pepper and mustard powder.

Advantages and disadvantages

If we compare ordinary varieties of cucumbers with parthenocarpic hybrids, then the latter, in addition to the parthenocarpy property, have some advantages:

• the formation of more fruits on the vines;
• cucumbers of the same shape, without any hollowness;
• cucumbers, being on the plant for a long time, do not turn yellow;
• There is no bitterness in the taste characteristics of cucumbers;
• long fruiting period;
• immunity to diseases and pests due to vaccination;
• increased shelf life and the possibility of long-term storage.

There are not many disadvantages to such cucumbers:

• the variety does not like sudden temperature changes;
• When grown in open ground and pollinated by insects, fruits with differences and deformations in shape are possible.

When planting such cucumbers for winter harvesting, carefully consider the choice of seeds, since some varieties and hybrids are intended only for fresh fruit consumption.

Pest diseases and ways to combat them

Even despite the resistance of many varieties of parthenocarpic cucumber to diseases and pests, there are some that can affect the hybrid. The main thing is to notice the plant’s disease in time and get rid of it as soon as possible.

Diseases that can affect a parthenocarpic hybrid include:

Brown spot

It is also called cladosporiosis. This fungal disease can develop due to incorrect temperature conditions: the temperature in the room or the water for irrigation is not the right one, or the humidity conditions were not maintained. Cladosporiosis can be identified by external signs: the foliage becomes covered with spots similar to burns, the fruits are also covered with similar ulcers. To combat this disease, it is necessary to stop watering the plant and restore the correct climate regime, preferably with periodic ventilation (if this is a room).

Downy mildew

The second name of the disease is downy mildew, the causative agent is a fungus. The disease also develops as a result of non-compliance with climatic indicators - temperature, air humidity and soil. Although downy mildew does not affect the fruits themselves, it significantly affects their quality and quantity. The upper side of the foliage is covered with polygonal yellow spots, and the lower side is subject to a silvery coating. In the fight against downy mildew, it is necessary to act in several ways: damaged leaves and shoots are cut off and treated. During the struggle, watering is reduced to a minimum and even stopped.

Root rot

Wanting to provide the plant with a sufficient amount of moisture, you can inadvertently create an excess of humidity. The leaves weaken and wither, the roots turn brown, the crop does not grow - these are all signs of root rot, this is confirmation of the fact that the plant received more water than it required. In order to overcome this disease, it is necessary to heal the stem cracks. To do this, use a mixture consisting of either ash, copper sulfate and water, or coal, chalk powder and ash. If the plant is just starting to hurt, cut off the lower foliage.

The parthenocopic hybrid has very few pests, but this does not prevent such organisms from harming the plant. These pests include whiteflies.

A very small insect pest. Reproducing quickly, this white flying insect feeds on plant sap. As a result, the foliage begins to fade, the inflorescences are damaged, which can subsequently lead to a decrease in yield. The plant itself becomes covered with a sticky substance, which attracts other pests and is a favorable environment for the development of fungus. Many methods are used to combat it: from folk remedies to electrical appliances.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are worth your attention and you should definitely try growing them at home.

Dependence of parthenocarpy on growing conditions

The relationship between parthenocarpy and cucumber growing conditions is manifested in the following:

• Hybrids are vaccinated against diseases, so they do not require special measures against diseases and pest attacks.
• A large difference between day and night air temperatures leads to a decrease in the number of ovaries and inhibition of plant development.
• The formation of a bush, its pinching and the optimal arrangement of vines directly affects the amount of harvest.
• Hybrids bear fruit well in closed soils and in the open air.

Growing parthenocarpic varieties in greenhouses

When growing parthenocarpic varieties in a greenhouse, it is necessary to adhere to the correct temperature regime and properly prepare the seeds. First, the seeds need to be soaked in a growth-stimulating liquid and then dried. Until 5 leaves appear, the plants are prepared for replanting in a container with peat. After transplanting into closed ground, it is necessary to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse and introduce fertilizing.

Seedling method

Growing parthernocarpic cucumbers in seedlings consists of two stages: preparing the seeds and placing them in the ground.

To begin with, seed preparation includes sterilization with a liquid with a low concentration of potassium permanganate. Next, the seeds are placed in gauze, soaked in water and left under the film for 24 hours. After this, the gauze is left in the refrigerator for 48 hours.

In order to place the seeds in the ground, they are planted in separate containers. The temperature in the room in which the seedlings are located should be +26...+27C. After the first shoots appear, the temperature should be reduced to +22C. Air humidity should be 75%. After the incident 25 days, transplantation into the ground occurs. It is necessary to plant in a hole with an area of ​​900 sq.cm, the distance between the holes should be half a meter, and between the rows - one and a half.

Seedless method

The seedless method of growing parthenocarpic cucumbers consists of almost the same steps as the seedling method. The main thing is the soil temperature at which the seeds need to be planted at least +15C. The same fertilizers are added and watering should be done in the same way as when planting seedlings.

The best parthenocarpic cucumber hybrids

Each gardener has his own favorite varieties and hybrids of parthenocarpic cucumbers. Among all their diversity there are no good and bad. Each of them differs in qualitative and quantitative yield indicators, the time interval in agricultural work, as well as the possibility of growing in open or closed ground.

Let's look at some of the common varieties and hybrids of this type of cucumber.

Classification

Depending on the ripening time (in days), vegetables are divided into:

• ultra-early (up to 39 days);
• early (40-45);
• mid-early (46-50);
• mid-season (51-56);
• late (from 57 days).

According to cultivation method:

• open garden bed;
• greenhouse, hotbed or other enclosed setting.

For further purposes:

• conservation;
• for food (freshly picked);
• universal.

Related article:

Cucumber Emerald earrings F1 - description and characteristics of a high-yielding early-ripening hybrid

For conservation, it is recommended to sow hybrids that produce small pods. For fresh consumption, it is better to choose large-fruited varieties.

By type of wicker:

• weak;
• average;
• tall.

By external features:

• pubescent;
• lumpy;
• with spikes;
• smooth.

Depending on the size of the fruit:

• small;
• long.

How to grow parthenocarpic cucumbers?

Parthenocarpic cucumbers do not differ in the difficulty of growing from ordinary ones, since they practically do not require special conditions or agricultural technology. For each cultivation option, its own timing is considered optimal, depending on the possibility of creating a microclimate.

In the open ground

Cucumbers are sown in open ground with seeds, or ready-made seedlings are planted. In both cases, it is important that the soil is prepared and warmed by sunlight. Otherwise, the vegetable crop will wither and eventually die. The favorable air temperature for cucumbers is 25-28 degrees Celsius.

To obtain seedlings, 35-40 days before the intended planting in open ground, the seeds are sown in individual peat pots or reusable containers. To do this, use universal soil purchased in the store, or a planting mixture of your own production. The second option requires soil disinfection. More is written about planting cucumber seedlings here.

Before sowing, seeds are disinfected by soaking for 15-20 minutes in a slightly pink solution of manganese. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, it is allowed to soak the planting material in a growth activator.

Instructions:

1. Deepen 2 seeds into the soil to a depth of 3 cm and sprinkle with earthen mixture.
2. Spray water onto the surface to moisten the soil.
3. Cover the pots with glass or transparent film and place them in a warm, bright place. As soon as the sprouts sprout, remove the covering material from the pot.
4. Make sure that the plant has enough sunlight; additional lighting may be required during this period. When growing on a windowsill, rotate containers with seedlings daily so that they grow proportionally and do not stretch or become deformed.
5. As the cucumbers grow, move them away from each other to avoid touching and shading.
6. Carry out the necessary agrotechnical procedures. When the plants reach a length of 30-40 cm and 4 true leaves appear, they need to be transplanted into open ground.

It is possible to plant seedlings in open ground using several methods:

• Single line vertical. The distance between plants is at least 15-20 cm, row spacing is 50-70 cm.
• Belt vertical. The distance between plants in a row is 15-20 cm, between ribbons - 40-50 cm, row spacing - 70-90 cm.
• Chess horizontal. A distance of 60-80 cm is maintained between plants, providing row spacing. Formed cucumber vines should not be shifted; this should be done at the growth stage, removing them from the row spacing.
• Bush. 2-3 plants are planted in one hole, leaving for them an approximate square of free space measuring 1.5x1.5 m.

The same schemes are followed when sowing seeds in the ground at the end of May.

In room conditions

Having decided to grow parthenocarpic cucumbers indoors, you need to choose a place for them and prepare it. This can be a balcony, loggia, window sill, if they face any side other than the north. The space should be cleaned, cracks and other sources of cold air penetration should be eliminated, the glass should be washed, and it is possible to install phytolamps or fluorescent lamps.

Seeds should be selected specifically for growing indoors to eliminate the need for pollination by insects. If additional lighting is available, seeds can be planted at any time.

Containers should be chosen with a volume of at least 8 liters, with drainage holes in the bottom.

Instructions:

1. Pour a drainage layer of gravel or expanded clay into the container with a layer of at least 3 cm, and fill the top with prepared disinfected soil. Do not fill the container to the brim, leave a free strip of a couple of cm.
2. Rinse the tubs with hot water. A day later, sow 3-5 seeds, deepening them 3-4 cm into the soil. Further activities do not differ from the usual cultivation of seedlings at home.
3. Caring for cucumbers is no different from what is provided to the crop in open ground or shelter. Make sure that the sun's rays do not burn the cucumber leaves, shading them as necessary. Spray the foliage daily with water from a spray bottle. Cucumbers respond especially well to such sprinkling.

You can sow the seeds in small peat pots, and after forming 4 leaves, transplant them into large buckets.

Indoors

Most often, cucumbers are transferred into closed ground in the form of seedlings, which are grown in advance in reusable or peat containers indoors. Before planting, the plants must be hardened off; to do this, the seedlings are taken out to a cooler room overnight, gradually lowering the temperature to 18 degrees.

The planting pattern depends on the dimensions of the greenhouse. But you should not thicken the plantings so that the cucumbers do not interfere with each other. The best option is the vertical growing method using supports and trellises.

They dig holes in the garden bed, moisten them abundantly, and place the seedlings in them together in an earthen lump or in a peat glass. Sprinkle with soil so that the edge of the container remains outside. This will prevent blackening of the root stalk and the development of rot. The soil is slightly compacted.

Read more about growing cucumbers in a greenhouse in our other article.

Growing indoors

Parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers can be successfully grown at home by creating certain conditions for them.

Separate containers and large boxes with holes at the bottom for the drainage of excess moisture are suitable for growing. Calculate the container volume based on the fact that there should be 5–7 liters of soil per plant. Do not forget also that the drainage layer should be at least 3 cm.

It’s quite possible to grow cucumbers on a windowsill if you follow the rules

Soil can be purchased at a flower shop. To give it greater looseness, you should add river sand. A self-prepared substrate will consist of the following components, taken in equal quantities:

• garden soil;
• coarse sand;
• humus;
• wood ash;
• rotted sawdust.

It is advisable to disinfect the soil mixture by calcining it in the oven.

Sowing seeds: step by step

1. Drainage and disinfected soil mixture are poured into the container.
2. Prepared seeds are planted in moist soil. Cover the container with a plastic bag and place it in a warm, bright place so that the temperature inside is not lower than +25°C.
3. Periodically, the film is removed for ventilation, and the surface of the earth is moistened.
4. With the emergence of shoots, the film is removed. A trellis is constructed from thin twine along which the lashes are guided.
5. Further growth occurs at a temperature of +20°C.

Since cucumbers are very sensitive to heat and light, containers with plants should be placed on the south side. If there is not enough light, which often happens in winter, you need to use phytolamps to extend the daylight hours to the required 15 hours.

If cucumbers do not have enough light, we extend daylight hours with the help of phytolamps

In the cold season, you can place a piece of foam under the container with cucumbers. In this way, overcooling of the roots can be avoided.

Video: growing cucumbers on a windowsill

Watering

Moisture-loving cucumbers should receive regular moisture. The soil should not dry out more than 5 cm. The leaves can be sprayed occasionally to increase the overall humidity.

Top dressing

Mineral and organic fertilizers are used as fertilizing. Domestic fertilizers Baikal M1 and Kristallin have proven themselves well.

The first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after planting. Then fertilizer is applied every 10–12 days.

Features of care

Parthenocarpic cucumbers do not require pollination. In addition, some hybrids do not require the formation of a bush, which makes caring for them much easier.

Caring for the first shoots

After germination, make sure that the soil is moist and loosen it in time to prevent the formation of a hard crust on top of the soil, which prevents the penetration of oxygen to the roots and the absorption of nutrients and nutrition.

If there are temperature changes, cover young plants with film at night. If the soil has a sufficient amount of micro and macroelements, then problems with seedlings and the formation of adult leaves should not arise.

Watering and weeding

Moistening the soil is one of the main procedures for cucumbers. Without enough moisture in the soil they will die. For irrigation, use only water at room temperature, preferably from natural sources, or settle it if it is from a tap.

The procedure for moistening the soil should be carried out before the crop blooms - every other day, during the flowering period - reduce to 2-3 times a week, and when the ovaries form, return to 3-4 times a day of watering. If the weather is dry, it may need to be done daily.

Removing weeds preserves nutrients in the soil, eliminates shading of cucumbers and the transfer of infections and pests from weeds. Weeding additionally loosens the soil, enriches it with oxygen, and retains moisture in the root zone of the vegetable crop.

Top dressing

To replenish the supply of useful components and compounds in the soil, mineral and organic fertilizers are used:

1. When planting, fertilizer is applied to the planting holes using compost and manure.
2. After adaptation of young plants in a greenhouse or open ground, application of nitrogen fertilizers (10-15 g per 1 liter of water) to activate growth and vegetation.
3. Every 3 weeks, starting from flowering, they are fed with complex mineral nutrition or organic-based fertilizers, as well as folk methods. For example, dissolve ammonium nitrate or urea in a bucket of water - 15-20 g; superphosphate - 15 g; potassium sulfate - 15 g. You can prepare a solution of chicken droppings, manure or compost at the rate of 250-300 g per bucket of water.

It is important to consider the total amount of fertilizer applied to avoid oversaturation of the soil with it. This negatively affects cucumbers, as does nutritional deficiency.

It is advisable to fertilize the beds in the evening, using the root or foliar method. When foliar feeding, make the mineral fertilizer solution less concentrated. Before carrying out work on additional soil nutrition, be sure to water the plants.

Read more information about feeding cucumbers when grown in open ground - here.

Bush formation

Pinching is necessary to reduce the plant's plant mass, and therefore the consumption of nutrition, which goes not into the formation of the crop, but into shoots and foliage. Carry out pinching work only when the cucumbers are tied up. When growing cucumber crops in a horizontal position, pinching is done in such a way as to minimally disturb the main vine.

Pinch the tops of the vines so that the greens have time to ripen and the plant does not lose strength by lengthening the vines. As a rule, the parthenocarpic type of cucumbers produces fruits only on the main vine, so it is important to correctly form the bush and remove the lateral shoots:

1. To blind the bush, remove all flowers and shoots in the axils of the first five leaves.
2. Then leave 6 shoots, but no more than 25 cm long.
3. The next shoots are left longer - up to 40 cm.
4. After that - about half a meter.

The final appearance of the bush looks like an inverted pyramid.

Features of choice

A competent approach to the selection of seeds of parthenocarpic cucumbers in order to obtain a good harvest in the future includes an analysis of the following points:

• climate of a certain area;
• average daily temperature;
• place of growth (greenhouse, open ground);
• soil type characteristics;
• ripening time;
• personal preferences, wishes and needs of the gardener;
• intended purpose and use of fruits after removal.

Diseases and pests

The most common diseases of parthenocarpic cucumbers include:

• anthracnose;
• cladosporiosis;
• powdery mildew;
• olive spot;
• cucumber mosaic.

They manifest themselves as various spots on the leaves and stems of the crop, a coating over the entire surface of the plant, or only on spots, a general inhibition of the development of cucumbers, their weakness and drying out. At first, the spots are barely noticeable, but as the fungus develops, they grow, merge and change color. If action against diseases is delayed, cucumbers die completely.

Along with diseases, insect pests can spoil or completely destroy the cucumber crop. The most common are:

• Melon aphid. When attacked by these small insects, the leaves on the vines twist and curl.
  Pests are located on the underside of the leaf blade. They suck the juices out of the plant, which creates a nutritional deficiency for the crop, stops growth and development, and leads to death. In small areas, traditional methods of control are used against aphids. For example, an infusion of onion peels or an aqueous solution of wood ash with the addition of laundry soap.

• Greenhouse spider mite. Cobwebs on cucumbers are a sign of a mite. They appear where there are weeds and conditions suitable for the pest. It must be destroyed using chemicals immediately, before the insect multiplies, causing irreparable damage. Such drugs as Plant-pin, Actellik, Fitoverm, etc. are suitable.

Greenhouse spider mite (left) and melon aphid (right)

Dilute the products in accordance with the instructions, and carry out the work using personal protective equipment.

Measures for the prevention and control of diseases and pests include:

• preparation of soil and seed material before planting;
• moderate regular watering;
• maintaining microclimate in greenhouses;
• do not thicken plantings;
• regular weeding and loosening of the soil.
• applying fertilizers to build the immunity of cucumbers.
• removal of affected plants and their burning, subsequent treatment of plantings with Fitosporin and Fitoverm preparations.

Advantages and disadvantages

The benefits of parthenocarpic cucumbers include:

• smooth and evenly colored fruits;
• lack of bitterness and coarse seeds;
• universal use of the crop;
• suitability of fruits for long-term storage without loss of taste and marketability;
• high yield rates;
• does not require pollination;
• resistance to diseases and adverse weather conditions.

The only disadvantage experienced gardeners point out is that it is impossible to collect your own seeds for propagation from the fruits of parthenocarpic cucumbers.

Expert opinion

Stanislav Pavlovich

Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert

Ask a Question

Important! All varieties are hybrids.

Harvest and storage

It is recommended to collect greens from 9-14 days from the beginning of the flowering period. This depends on the varietal capabilities and desired parameters of the fruit. When picking greens, be careful not to miss the cucumbers, leaving them to overripe. This slows down fruiting and reduces the overall yield. Pick cucumbers at least 2-3 times a week.

Storage and the possibility of harvesting cucumber fruits completely depend on the selected variety or hybrid. Therefore, before planting, pay attention to this, carefully studying the characteristics of the plants.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are the best option in climates and weather conditions where the emergence of pollinating insects is difficult. In addition, a rich harvest can be obtained at home, at any time of the year. It is only important to choose the right variety and create the desired microclimate, providing proper care.

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TOP F1 hybrids

Hybrids are considered the best varieties of parthenocarpic cucumbers for open ground. To obtain them, several varieties are simultaneously crossed, which as a result gives the best characteristics and properties of the plant. The greatest successes in breeding varieties were achieved by breeders from Russia and Holland.

Hybrids are characterized by high germination and resistance to environmental changes; the probability of ovary formation reaches 96%. Designated F1 - first generation.

Related article:

6 rules for caring for cucumbers in August that will ensure a good harvest

Ultra early

This group is characterized by the shortest period of ripening of the first fruits from the moment of emergence. The average period varies between 35-42 days. The following hybrids are considered prominent representatives that are popular among gardeners:

1. Amur. One of the leaders in early ripeness - 37-40 days. In the first month, the main part of the entire crop ripens. It is characterized by a vigorous stem with little branching and does not need to be formed.
2. Atik. An indeterminate plant, in open ground it requires staking to a support. Gherkin-type fruits with good taste. The main disadvantage for some consumers may be large tubercles of skin.
3. Enthusiasm. Suitable for industrial cultivation, characterized by stable fruiting. The average yield in individual subsidiary plots is up to 5.2 kg/sq.m. m.
4. Ant. It is popular among gardeners due to its early ripening (37-38 days), taste characteristics and complex resistance to various diseases.

Early

The most extensive group, including a wide variety of options. Almost each of them is considered universal, as it is adapted not only to open ground, but also to balconies and greenhouses. On average, fruit ripening occurs 40-45 days after seed germination.

1. Artist. The maximum result is achieved when grown on a trellis. The average yield is indicated at 8.5 kg/sq.m. m.
2. Hermann. Many agronomists consider this Dutch variety to be the most popular in the country. Early fruiting is noted (40-45 days). Formation into a single stem is usually practiced, which produces stronger new shoots and a powerful root system. On average from 1 sq. m per season is collected up to 8.5-9.0 kg.
3. Zyatek. A universal option, suitable for growing in open and closed beds, the first collection of greens is carried out after 42-48 days. The average harvest from one bush is about 5-7 kg.
4. Claudine. It is characterized by long fruiting, early ripening and good taste.

Related article:

How to grow a good harvest of cucumbers

The following hybrids also performed well: (in alphabetical order):

1. String bag.
2. Brawler.
3. Goosebumps.
4. Orpheus.
5. Paratunka.
6. Patty.
7. Prestige.
8. Seven.
9. Mother-in-law.

According to reviews from amateur gardeners, they are maximally adapted to the growing conditions in the regions of the country.

Mid-early and mid-season

Before harvesting the first harvest of cucumbers of this group, it takes 46-50 and 51-56 days, respectively. Some of the most common ones in the country are:

1. Friendly family. The first fruits ripen 48 days after the sprouts appear. It is distinguished by the stability and duration of the harvest, as well as its ease of care. Requires timely and constant collection due to the rapid outgrowth of cucumbers.
2. Claudia Agro. It belongs to the mid-early species (45-52 days) with a friendly yield of fruits; fruiting can last until the first frost. But for the northern regions, agronomists recommend cultivation in greenhouses.
3. Connie. It is recommended as resistant to weather changes and has high productivity. Among the advantages are short fruiting and excellent taste.

Landing rules

Parthenocarpic hybrids are planted under film and glass greenhouses and in biovegetarian gardens. Traditionally grown through seedlings or by regular sowing in pre-prepared beds. Parthenocarpic cucumber seeds are sown for seedlings starting from the beginning of winter, subject to transplantation into greenhouses.

Seed preparation

Pre-sowing treatment includes disinfection with pesticides, Apron and Baktofit solutions. “TMDT” is used against a wide range of pathogens. Before sowing, the seeds are prepared. 5 days are heated at 50 degrees, and another 1 day at 70 degrees. Then soak for 8-10 hours in solutions:

• Boric acid;
• Copper sulfate;
• 0.5% potassium permanganate;
• Zinc sulfate with ammonium molybdate.

After processing, the seeds are dried.

Soil substrate for seedlings: how to make it correctly

The soil is prepared fertile and loose; the pH should be neutral or slightly acidic. The substrate is made up of the following components:

• Garden turf;
• Rotted compost;
• Wood ash;
• Sand.

Fertilizers are added per 10 kg of mixture:

• 25g superphosphate;
• 10 g potassium sulfate;
• ½ cup wood ash.

It is convenient to sow parthenocarpic seeds in peat tablets or cups.

For sowing, use 8*8 cm pots. The seeding depth is 2-2.5 cm. Sprinkle the top with a fine mixture and lightly compact it. Place in a warm place -26-27 degrees, keep under film or glass until germination.

Nuances of caring for seedlings

In order for the seedlings to grow strong it is necessary:

• Additional lighting with a phytolamp so that the daylight hours are at least 12-14 hours;
• Humidity within 50-75%;
• The optimal temperature range is between 18-23 degrees;
• Rain irrigation with settled warm water;

Parthenocarpics are grown without picking.

The best greenhouse hybrids

Choosing the best varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse is difficult due to the many opinions of gardeners. Let's first find out from the professionals what they will advise gardeners:

• When choosing the best varieties of hybrids for a greenhouse, you need to pay attention to cucumber seeds of the generative growth type “Barvina-F1” or “Betina-F1”.

  
  Plants are characterized by weak branching and are not afraid of shading. The fruits have a dark green color with an abundance of tubercles characteristic of a cucumber, have a sweetish taste without bitterness, can be stored for a long time and are resistant to transportation.

• The category of the best greenhouse varieties includes the parthenocarpic hybrid “Excelsior-F1”. This type of cucumber was recently bred, but has already proven itself with good yields. The medium-sized fruit is covered with small pimples on top and does not lose its presentation during long-term storage. The plant is resistant to common diseases and is also characterized by long-term fruiting.
• If there are frequent drops in temperature inside a home greenhouse, then the best seeds for such conditions are “Kadrille-F1”.

  
  The bushes bear abundant fruit and are resistant to disease. The size of the finished fruit reaches 14 cm. Cucumbers are covered with small pimples, do not outgrow, and are subject to storage and transportation.

• For the lazy gardener, the best varieties are those that require minimal care. Here you can pay attention to the hybrid “Director-F1”.

  
  The plant is very hardy and produces good yields even in aggressive conditions. Medium-sized bushes are distinguished by their unique ability to quickly recover from accidental damage. Dark green fruits are distinguished by their uniform, regular shape and good presentation.

If for some reason the owner of a home greenhouse does not have the opportunity to purchase the best, according to experts, cucumber seeds, do not despair. After all, there are other parthenocarpic hybrids from which a worthy replacement can be found.