Strawberry Crown: description of the variety and rules for growing the Dutch variety

Strawberry varieties bred by foreign breeders are not always ready to take root in Russia due to the strong difference in weather conditions. The most valuable are “foreigners” that have stood the test of time and are capable of successfully bearing fruit and wintering not only in the Krasnodar region, but also in the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. One of these varieties is the Korona strawberry, a Dutch variety with which Russian gardeners have been familiar for many years.

Strawberry Crown: description of the Dutch variety

In recent decades, Russian gardeners have been trying to grow strawberry varieties of Dutch selection in their gardens. The main motives of summer residents are the following: the high yield of such strawberries, powerful bushes, high resistance to disease.

However, due to differences in climatic conditions, not all varieties of “Dutch” strawberries survive in many Russian regions. But there are also pleasant surprises - for example, the Korona strawberry takes root well and bears fruit in Russia. The main characteristics of this variety, agricultural cultivation techniques, pros and cons will be discussed below.

The content of the article:

1. History of breeding of the variety 2. Characteristics and description of the variety 3. Productivity of the strawberry variety Korona 4. Diseases and pests 5. Agrotechnics of cultivation 6. Preparing strawberries Korona for the winter season 7. Feeding rules 8. Advantages and disadvantages 9. Reviews of strawberries Korona

Watering

Corona loves loose, permeable and moist soil. Watering the beds is done frequently as the soil dries out.

Plants are watered according to agricultural technology recommendations:

  1. After planting, strawberries are watered every day, morning or evening.
  2. When the seedlings take root, they are watered 2 times a week.
  3. Adult plants once every 6-7 days.
  4. Water is poured into furrows or between plants without flooding the outlet. Drops of water left on the leaves can cause sunburn.
  5. At temperatures above 30°C, the frequency of watering is increased.
  6. The optimal water temperature is 20-25°C; watering with cold water (plus 15°C and below) promotes the appearance of gray rot fungus.

Attention! During mass flowering, 20 liters of water are poured per square meter of plantation. The rest of the time - 10 liters.

History of variety development

This variety was bred by breeders from the Netherlands several decades ago - in 1972.

However, this berry plant is still popular among gardeners in many countries. And this suggests that Korona strawberries are not inferior in their characteristics to newer varieties and hybrids.

The varieties taken as the basis for the development of Corona strawberries are Tamella and Induka.

From its “parents” the new variety has taken on high resistance to frost and can withstand temperatures down to -20-22 degrees Celsius.

Photo of strawberry Corona

Therefore, in Russia it can be planted in most regions, covered for the winter in areas with harsh winters, or grown in heated greenhouses or greenhouses.

Preparing for winter

Fruiting of the Crown stops by mid-summer, and then the strawberry begins a dormant period. From the end of summer they begin to prepare it for wintering. To do this, first the bushes are pruned from dry leaves and small shoots. The bed continues to be watered, but not abundantly and not often. After the last watering (it occurs before the onset of frost, at the end of September), the soil is allowed to dry, and then a thin layer of mulch is laid on it. Instead of mulch, agrofibre is suitable for covering the berries; it is not advisable to use film, since the plants under it “wilt”.

Find out here what you can plant after strawberries.

Strawberry Crown: characteristics and description of the variety

This variety of strawberries has a mid-early berry ripening period - the mass harvest of ripe fruits is carried out in the second ten days of June. Moreover, the ripening of strawberries is slightly extended - they are usually harvested within 10-15 days.

Important!

The strawberry variety Korona is not remontant.

The bushes are of medium height, but powerful and quite spreading. The foliage is strong, large, shiny, dark emerald. The formation of tendrils is average, so you can safely propagate Corona strawberries only by tendrils, but some gardeners use bush division and seed propagation.

Photo of strawberry bushes Corona

The shape of ripe berries is cone-shaped or heart-shaped. The surface is smooth, even with slightly pressed seeds. The color of the fruit is bright red, almost burgundy. Their weight is 20-25 g. The taste of ripe berries is sweet and juicy, the pulp is quite dense with a characteristic strawberry aroma.

The marketability of the fruits is excellent; it is noted that most of the ripening fruits are the same in size and weight. The fruits are quite delicate, so they do not tolerate transportation well and are not stored for a long time - it is better to process them immediately after picking. The berries can be eaten fresh and used to make compotes and jam.

It is noted that this strawberry variety is resistant to spotted mosaic and is practically not affected by pests and their larvae.

How are wild strawberries different from strawberries?

Garden strawberries are often mistaken for strawberries. These plants do have external similarities, and also belong to the same genus Strawberry and the common Rosaceae family. But they differ from each other:

  1. Strawberry stems grow up to 25–35 cm, the flowers of this crop are unisexual. And the leaves of the crop are painted light green, clearly corrugated along the edges. The strawberries themselves are medium in size, dark scarlet in color and have a slightly rounded tip.
  2. Garden strawberries are somewhat larger in size than strawberries, and are also ahead of them in terms of productivity, since they have male and female flowers. The shoots of this plant reach 20–25 cm, and the leaf blades are dark green. The berries have a bright red hue and pointed tips.

Left - strawberries, right - strawberries

Productivity of strawberry variety Korona

Due to its fairly high resistance to cold, Korona strawberries are grown in most Russian regions, but in areas with very frosty winters it is recommended to plant them in greenhouse conditions to protect them from freezing.

The productivity of the Korona strawberry variety is high - at least 1 kg of ripe berries are harvested from each bush with proper agricultural technology. In one place, this variety shows good fruiting for 4-5 seasons, after which the bushes should be transplanted to another place.

Landing rules

The place for strawberry beds should be well lit and protected from constant winds. In winter there should be enough snow here so that the berry bushes can survive without damage. Without winter snow protection, strawberries may grow small and irregular in shape.

Preparing the beds

It is better to prepare the beds in advance. They need to be located from south to north, optimally with an inclination to the southwest. There are many planting methods; each gardener chooses the one that best suits local conditions.

In the southern regions, it is best to plant strawberries in trenches 25–30 cm wide and 25–30 cm deep. They should be filled with humus, ash and bone meal added at 100–150 grams per meter of trench, covered with excavated soil, watered and covered with film. This planting method allows you to retain moisture in the soil and prevents the roots from drying out.


The trench method of planting strawberries maximizes moisture conservation

In the central regions there is less heat and more moisture. Therefore, strawberries are planted on ridges, using the soil between the rows. For every meter of prepared bed, the width of which is 80–100 cm, you need to add a bucket of humus, half a bucket of sand, and a liter jar of stove ash. Dig carefully and form ridges 10–20 cm high.

It is useful to edge the ridges with boards or slate. The distance between the ridges is 80–100 cm.


Strawberries are planted on such elevated ridges in the central regions

To shade the roots, it is useful to plant several bushes of tall marigolds to the south of the strawberry bed, which will both slightly shade the strawberries and repel pests with their smell.

The best predecessors for garden strawberries are onions, garlic, and legumes. At the end of summer, after harvesting onions or garlic, it is good to sow the bed intended for strawberries with white mustard, which will destroy the nematode. Cut off the grown mustard with a flat cutter, mix with the top layer of soil, cover the bed with black non-woven material and leave until the strawberries are planted.


White mustard sown on the site of the future strawberry bed will protect the berry bushes from nematodes

Photo gallery: shape of beds and planting methods


This is what a typical garden strawberry bed looks like


Strawberries in an edged bed under an agrospan have no problems with watering or weeds


Strawberries planted on agrofibre are free from weeds


Sloping bed for strawberries is original and economical


A pyramidal strawberry bed significantly saves land area


A compact pyramid bed, in addition to saving land, may well become a decoration for the garden

Landing dates

Depending on the region, strawberries can be planted from spring to the end of August. The timing depends on the weather and the condition of the seedlings. Most often, planting is done after fruiting has ended: from late July to early September, so that the plants can take root before the onset of cold weather.

How to plant strawberries Corona

Experts usually recommend the following sequence of operations when planting strawberries:

  1. Mark the bed and dig holes. If the beds have been properly prepared in advance, there is no need to add anything to the holes.
  2. Water thoroughly - at least three liters of water per plant. It is useful to add Kornevin or Heteroauxin to the water for irrigation; the plants will take root faster.
  3. Remove the plant from the pot.
  4. Place it in the hole so that the heart is clearly at ground level.
  5. Fill all voids with earth.
  6. Water again so that the remaining voids are covered with soil, and mulch the hole with dry humus.
  7. Water the planted plants over the leaves from a watering can with a solution of Fitosporin (according to the instructions for using this drug).
  8. Mulch the bed with rotted sawdust and dry grass. The thickness of the protective layer should be 5–7 cm. Do not cover the bushes with mulch: the leaves and the heart should be free.

Since Corona has a tendency to crush berries, the distance between strawberry bushes plays a decisive role. The more spacious the bushes, the larger the berries. Plants are planted in the garden bed in such a way that the gap between the bushes in the row is at least 25 cm, and between the rows - at least 70.


For the Korona variety, the preferred method is sparse planting

Correct position of the seedling in the hole

The seedling's heart should be strictly at soil level. If you cover it with earth, it will rot and the bush will die. If placed above the ground, the roots will be exposed and the plant will dry out.


Correct and incorrect position of the seedling heart in relation to the soil level

Diseases and pests

The variety is resistant to spotted mosaic and is not damaged by insect pests. However, Corona strawberry bushes can be affected by gray rot or white spotting.

To protect this berry crop from various rots and fungal diseases, in spring and autumn, plants are treated preventively with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries Korona

Corona strawberries can be grown in open ground and in greenhouses in colder regions.

Moreover, the yield of bushes does not change depending on different growing conditions, but only on care and application of fertilizers.

Strawberry Crown - video

Important!

Corona strawberry bushes do not tolerate hot weather well and do not tolerate drought; in such conditions, plants develop worse, and yields may deteriorate.

First, you should select a site where you plan to plant seedlings of this variety. The best predecessors for strawberries will be leguminous crops, after which the soil remains loose and disinfected.

It’s a good idea to plow an area for strawberry beds where nothing was grown in previous seasons.

The chosen place should be well lit, protected from gusts of wind and strong drafts. In winter, it is in such areas that snow is well retained, which will be the best protection for strawberries from freezing.

During the autumn digging, humus or compost is added to the selected area (at the rate of 10 kg per square); in the spring, during digging, complex mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium must be added. Wood ash should also be scattered around the area.

The best time for planting Corona strawberries is the first ten days of May or August-September.

It is better to plant seedlings in the evening or in cloudy weather, then the plants acclimatize better in the new place.

The distance between planting holes should be at least 0.5 m in rows, and the row spacing should be at least 0.6-0.7 m. Moisture is first added to the holes, and after planting the bushes they are watered again.

Important!

In the future, the beds with strawberries should be watered once every 5-7 days, while ensuring that the top layer of soil is well moistened. In hot, dry weather, the amount of watering is increased, and in rainy weather, the amount is reduced.

Bushes of the Korona variety produce a large number of tendrils, some of which should be removed, as they weaken the mother plants and take nutrients from the soil.

Typically, all tendrils that appear should be removed before the end of fruiting. And after harvesting, only the number of first appearing rosettes on the tendrils is left that is planned to be replanted in the fall, and the rest should be removed.

Reproduction

Due to the fact that strawberries of the Korona variety produce a lot of runners, it is advisable to propagate them using the rosette method. Healthy and powerful bushes are chosen as mother bushes. After rosettes form on the tendrils, they are placed in holes or cups with soil for rooting.

Next, make sure that the soil is always moist. When the seedling has at least 5 leaves, the tendril can be trimmed and the seedling can be planted in a permanent place.

An effective, but less common method of propagation is dividing an adult bush. The plant is dug up and divided into parts so that each new seedling has at least 2-3 leaves and a developed root system.

Holes for planting must be prepared in advance. If the seedlings cannot be planted immediately, they are wrapped in natural fabric (cotton or linen), placed in a wooden or cardboard box and moistened well.

Strawberry Crown: feeding rules

During the spring-summer period, Korona strawberries are fed several times: after the first leaves appear, before the buds open, and after harvesting.

When to feed strawberries - video

Organic and mineral complexes are used as fertilizers, the application of which to the soil can be alternated. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizer urea is used to increase the vegetative mass of plants. You can read more about the rules for feeding strawberries in another article.

Tips for caring for Corona

In addition to weeding, loosening, and watering, there are a few more tips for caring for this variety of garden strawberries:

  • planting pattern - 20x20 cm. This living space is enough for a compact Corona bush. Before planting, inspect the roots to make sure they are healthy. Before planting, water the hole, and after planting, water the bush;
  • if the temperature is expected to drop in winter, it is better to cover the bushes with mulch and spunbond;
  • For Corona, it is recommended to use drip irrigation. This is a system that supplies water in doses through hoses to the roots. If it is not possible to organize drip irrigation, then the plants should be watered as needed (once every 4–7 days depending on the weather) with water at a temperature of 15°C. For 1 sq. m. plantation requires approximately 15–20 liters. Do not stop watering after harvesting so that the bushes form high-quality fruit buds for next year;
  • mulch the ground under the bushes with sawdust or hay. This way the berries will not get dirty with soil and rot.

With drip irrigation, water is supplied to plants evenly in small portions.

Video: how to organize drip irrigation for garden strawberry beds?

Feeding and fertilizers

It is difficult to obtain a good harvest of garden strawberries without organic and mineral fertilizers.

Table: feeding scheme for strawberries

PeriodTypes of fertilizers
Before planting or before new leaves form on an existing bedOrganic and mineral fertilizers before planting (mixture options):
  • peat and humus 5–8 kg per 1 sq. m., mineral fertilizers without chlorine (urea, superphosphate) 50 g per 1 sq. m.;
  • 2 buckets of humus, 1 glass of ash, a handful of complex fertilizer per 1 sq. m.;
  • a handful of humus, a tablespoon of superphosphate, a quarter glass of ash in each hole;
  • a handful of compost, 15 g of potassium salt, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of urea in each hole. For already growing bushes: half a liter of solution for each (1 tbsp urea, 1 tbsp sodium humate per 10 liters of water).
When the first leaves appear
  • nitrogen-containing fertilizers (it is important to observe the dosage, since excess nitrogen in the soil will lead to the growth of leaves, not fruits);
  • nitroammophoska at the root (1 tbsp per 10 l of water) and spraying with urea (0.5 tbsp per 2 l of water).
When setting fruit
  • potassium nitrate at the root (2 tbsp per 10 liters of water);
  • Pour 2 tablespoons of ash into 1 liter of water, leave for 24 hours, and pour the solution over the strawberries.
Before preparing for winterIn mid-September: a bucket of fermented mullein and half a glass of ash. After 2 weeks, pour in the solution: 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska, a glass of ash, 30 g of potassium sulfate per bucket of water. Before cold weather, place humus or mullein under the bushes.

Disease and pest control

The variety is resistant to powdery mildew, but is susceptible to white spotting and red root rot.

Table: diseases and pests of garden strawberries, measures for prevention and control of them

Diseases and pestsSigns of illnessPrevention and control measures
Red root rotThe growth of the plant is stunted, the leaves become bluish. Dug up garden strawberries have heavily rotten roots, without young white roots. The base of the root turns bright red.
  1. Planting healthy seedlings.
  2. Use of the drugs Fundozol, Topsin M (according to instructions).
  3. Maintaining crop rotation.
White spotSmall reddish spots appear on the leaves, growing and becoming white in the center. Affected flower stalks become thinner and darker.
  1. Avoid “helpers” of the disease: excessive watering, dense planting.
  2. Treatment with Falcon (10 ml per 10 l of water), Switch (8 g per 10 l of water).
WeevilIt gnaws the flower stalks and there will be no fruits on such a stem.
  1. When the snow melts, water the ground with iodine solution (half a teaspoon per bucket of water). Repeat the procedure after 10 days.
  2. Spraying with Inta-vir (1 tablet per 500 g of water).
  3. 100 g of garlic per bucket of water, leave for a week, add 2 tablespoons of boric acid, 400 ml of pine extract. Spray the beds.
  4. Collecting insects by hand.
  5. Removing gnawed flower stalks.
AphidDamages young leaves and releases an astringent substance that negatively affects the appearance of the fruit.Leave several heads of garlic in 3 liters of water for a week and spray on infected bushes.
NematodeDamaged plants become squat and dwarf. Their buds and peduncles thicken and shorten, leaf petioles turn red and become thinner.
  1. Remove weeds.
  2. Reproduction only with healthy whiskers.
  3. Maintaining crop rotation.
  4. In May-June, it is necessary to destroy all strawberry bushes with signs of nematodes.
  5. Place the seedlings in water at a temperature of 46–47° C for 15 minutes, then rinse in water at 10–15° C.

Photo gallery: who and what threatens garden strawberries?


White spot


The weevil gnaws the flower stalks


Aphids damage young leaves


To combat nematodes, crop rotation must be observed.

Advantages and disadvantages of Korona strawberries in comparison with other varieties

Experts include the main advantages of Korona strawberries:

  1. quite early ripening of berries;
  2. good taste of the harvested crop;
  3. versatility of fruits;
  4. excellent productivity;
  5. Strawberries Korona are unpretentious to growing conditions;
  6. high resistance to cold.

CHOOSE STRAWBERRY!

• Malvina strawberries • DUKAT strawberries • Darenka strawberries
Along with the positive qualities, this strawberry also has a number of disadvantages:

  1. the pulp of the berries is quite tender, so the harvested crop does not tolerate transportation well and cannot be stored for a long time even in the refrigerator;
  2. collected berries cannot be placed in the freezer for long-term storage;
  3. this variety is susceptible to a number of diseases: gray rot, white spot.

Need to know!

This variety is not suitable for cultivation on an industrial scale - the harvest will need to be sold quickly, otherwise the berries will begin to deteriorate. Therefore, it is recommended to grow Corona strawberries in summer cottages for the personal needs of gardeners.

Growing and care

Strawberry Corona rarely gets sick and will grow in any soil

To get a good harvest, you need to pay attention to the quality of watering, fight weeds and monitor soil fertility

Watering

If Korona strawberries are not watered, they will lose their best varietal qualities and will not be as tasty and beautiful. A drip system will help ensure high quality irrigation, which is not difficult to create on site using plastic lines.

During flowering, at least 20 liters should be supplied per square meter of strawberry beds. water. This is the most demanding period of time for irrigation. The rest of the time, the volume of moisture is halved. It is undesirable for water to get on the leaves and fruits, because... Corona berries rot quickly in rainy weather.

Loosening, weed control

Timely loosening of the soil crust is a mandatory agrotechnical technique when growing strawberries. If you neglect this procedure, there is a possibility of rotting the roots due to impaired air exchange. For this reason, you need to keep the beds clean, promptly getting rid of weeds that take away moisture and nutrition from the cultivated plant.

In recent years, gardeners have been practicing mulching the soil using non-woven fabric - black spunbond. It allows water and air to pass through, preventing weeds from developing and crusts forming. Mulching with polyethylene is not recommended due to the risk of root rot.

Removing a mustache

The Corona variety produces a lot of mustache, so there are no problems with its cultivation, but there is a need for constant removal of excess shoots. The mother bush devotes all its efforts to maintaining the viability of the rosettes. If they are not pruned, the plantings quickly thicken, the already small berries become even smaller, and you can’t expect a good yield.

Top dressing

Strawberry Corona is very responsive to feeding. If the land is scarce, there will not be a bountiful harvest.

Fertilizing is carried out three times per season:

  • early spring at the beginning of the growing season;
  • before or during flowering;
  • at the end of fruiting.

The best type of feeding is organic. (humus, wood ash, mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20). Among the mineral components, choose fertilizers that include potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen.

Pest and disease control

Strawberry Corona is prone to gray rot and spotting. For prevention, in early spring, immediately after removing the cover, the bushes are sprayed with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

When affected bushes appear, the plantation is treated with chemicals, and diseased plants are removed from the site.

Preparing for winter

In the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia, Corona strawberries must be prepared for wintering and covered. In the fall, the mustache is trimmed, dried leaves are removed, and water-recharging watering is done. Then the bed is filled with sawdust, wood ash, straw, and peat. In the northern regions, the use of agrofibre is mandatory. In the southern regions, the variety does not need shelter.

Strawberry Crown: reviews from those who planted

Below are some of the reviews from gardeners who grew Corona strawberries on their plots.

Vera, 47 years old, Lipetsk region:

“Among the different varieties of strawberries that I grow on my plot, I would like to especially mention the Corona strawberry. This variety does not require special care, it pleases with the friendly ripening of the harvest; from mid to late June you can pick a bucket of ripe, delicious strawberries from the beds of this variety almost every day. I don’t cover the beds with Corona for the winter, I just sprinkle dry leaves or sawdust on top.”

Natalya, 39 years old, Volgograd:

“I grow Corona strawberries specifically for the further preparation of preserves and jams, and my family also likes to eat them fresh with milk or sour cream.”

Planting strawberries - video

Tatyana, 50 years old, Ulyanovsk:

“The beds with Korona strawberries are my pride. The bushes are quite tall and spreading, from each of them in mid-June I collect no less than a kilogram of delicious berries. One bad thing is that it doesn’t tolerate transportation very well, so we try to eat it immediately after harvesting, or we process the entire harvested crop into jam.”

In a word, Korona strawberries are a good variety for those gardeners who use the harvested berries for further preservation or eat them fresh.

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Reviews

Excellent winter hardiness. In Kumertau (Bashkortostan) it winters calmly, covered only with snow. Taste and yield are excellent. Among the shortcomings, I note a weak aroma and not the highest resistance to heat and drought; it requires regular and frequent watering.

Of all my varieties, it tolerates rainy weather the worst; the berries immediately begin to deteriorate.

The Korona variety does not require any special growing conditions. Agricultural technology is standard, and this attracts gardeners. If you pay attention to the plant, the family will be provided with delicious, vitamin-rich berries during the strawberry season. Strawberries Korona saves space on “six hundred square meters”, since even from a small area you can consistently harvest a good harvest.

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