Planting carrots before winter, sowing dates, conditions, growing features


Advantages and disadvantages of planting carrots before winter

Gardeners who practice winter sowing usually continue to cultivate spring carrots. This is advisable, since winter planting has its disadvantages and risks.

But the method also has many advantages:

  1. The harvest ripens 15-20 days earlier than spring root crops of any early ripening varieties.
  2. Like other Umbelliferae, carrot seeds contain essential oils that slow down their germination. During the winter, these substances evaporate, so seedlings appear faster than usual.
  3. The gardener does not need to water the garden bed; melting snow provides the plants with moisture at a time when they especially need it for development. Therefore, the yield of winter carrots is higher than that of spring carrots; the fruits are larger and juicier.
  4. Melt water is healthier than tap water or even well water. In particular, its composition promotes the accumulation of sugars in root vegetables, as a result, their pulp is tastier and sweeter.
  5. Sowing before winter saves time in the spring, when there is a lot of other garden work. In addition, seeds for autumn planting do not need to be hardened or treated against pests.
  6. The seeds, overwintering in the ground, undergo natural hardening. Such carrots are more resistant to attack by insects and pathogenic microorganisms and can more easily withstand adverse weather conditions.
  7. In early spring, most pests dangerous to the crop, including the carrot fly, are at the beginning of their development cycle and cannot actively attack the planting.
  8. Pre-winter sowing is convenient in small areas: in the space freed up by mid-June, you can plant lettuces, radishes and other crops with a short growing season.

The main disadvantage of this method of cultivating carrots is that the fruits quickly deteriorate and cannot be preserved until winter.

All other disadvantages are associated with the risks of crop loss:

  1. Due to stress caused by frost, carrots may start to shoot in the spring.
  2. You have to spend more seeds when sowing, because by spring some of them will die.
  3. Agricultural practices must not be violated, otherwise the entire planting may freeze in the winter.
  4. If a thaw occurs at the beginning of spring, the seeds will hatch too early, and the seedlings will suffer during the next cold snap.

The best varieties for Siberia

When to plant carrots and beets

Breeders took care of a good harvest in various parts of the Russian Federation and developed certain frost-resistant varieties of carrots intended for cultivation in Siberia.

The most popular of them are:

  1. Nastena has a sweet tooth. This carrot variety is best planted in May. It has a sweet taste (hence the name), therefore it is most often used to obtain juice;


Rich carrot harvest in Siberia

  1. Altai shortened. Used for spring planting. Although the fruits are small in size (up to 120 grams), they can be stored for a long time;
  2. Queen of Autumn. Can be sown both in autumn and winter. The fruits are bright in color. Can be stored for a long time, used for processing or preparing any first or main courses;
  3. Dayana. The variety was bred for winter planting. The fruits are large in size and bear well.

As is clear from all that has been said above, carrots can be grown in Siberia in the same way as in the Moscow region or the Urals. The Siberian crop is resistant to many plant diseases and pests.

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Sowing terms and conditions

The most common reason for winter carrot crop failure is premature germination. If this happens on the eve of winter, the sprouts will die even under a layer of snow, since they will not be able to take root in the frozen ground.

The gardener’s task is to choose a time so that the seed does not suffer from the cold, but also does not grow.

Sowing is carried out when negative temperatures remain stable and no thaw is predicted.

But frosts during the planting period should be light - about -2...0°C, a decrease to -5°C is acceptable. It’s good if the temperature has been around zero for a couple of weeks.

It is advisable to carry out the procedure 7-10 days before the arrival of winter frosts. The soil should cool to +2...+3°C, it may even freeze to a depth of 2-5 cm, but not freeze to the core. Fallen snow does not interfere with sowing.

Carefully monitor the weather so as not to miss the optimal time for planting - in different years the favorable period may shift even in one region.

But if it gets cold too early by the standards of the climate zone, there is no need to rush, a thaw is possible. Warming with rain is especially dangerous; moisture provokes the emergence of seedlings.

Sowing dates:

Region Landing dates
South of Russia Suitable weather for sowing winter carrots may occur in late November or early December, and sometimes in the second half of this month.
In the Moscow region and central zone Conditions for planting winter carrots are observed in the second half of October or early November. Usually this is October 15-22.
In the north (Leningrad, Pskov, Novgorod regions) Sowing work is carried out in late September or early October.
In the Urals and Siberia Planting period from September 10 to November 5

How to plant carrots in the fall

When planting carrots, experts recommend taking into account the rules of crop rotation. This root vegetable is not too sensitive to its predecessors, but still has its own preferences.

This vegetable grows best after potatoes, onions, garlic, cucumbers, tomatoes and melons. It is not customary to plant carrots after themselves. It should be returned to its original planting site only after a few years. This is due to the accumulation of carrot fly larvae in the soil, which greatly annoys root crops.

Land preparation

It is better to choose a site for planting carrots on a flat, sunny place, where the snow will melt faster, but the melt water will not carry the seeds with it. Sandy loam soils or cultivated marshy areas rich in organic matter are best suited for vegetables. First, the soil must be cleared of plant remains of the previous crop. After all, it is in them that the causative agents of all kinds of diseases and the larvae of harmful insects accumulate.

Then the soil needs to be loosened and further fertilized. You need to dig up the area to a depth of about 30 cm. At the same time, organic matter (compost, humus) and mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus are added. The required amount of fertilizer is determined based on the level of soil fertility. Manure is applied rotted and not fresh. Otherwise, the quality of root crops will suffer. After introducing fresh mullein, at least 2 years must pass.

At the beginning of October, the soil is loosened again and grooves up to 5 cm deep are cut at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Their bottom should be lightly compacted with the edge of a wooden board. The bed remains in this state until frost sets in. You can cover it on top with film or non-woven material. Additionally, several bags of soil mixture and mulching material should be prepared in the barn. During storage, the soil should remain dry and crumbly, so it must be kept at above-zero temperatures.

Landing

By the time of planting, the soil should freeze to a depth of 5 cm. During a warm autumn, sowing is sometimes postponed until the last days of November. In any case, the exact timing must be determined based on weather conditions. If snow has fallen by the time of sowing, they simply throw it away from the bed and begin work. The bottom of the furrows must be sprinkled with prepared dry soil in a layer of 1-2 cm.

Important! Please note that loose soils require a greater sowing depth than dense soils.

The seeds are sown thickly, sprinkled on top with dry, unfrozen soil. The top of the bed is insulated with a mulch layer. Its thickness depends on the planting region. The colder the winter in your area, the thicker the mulch layer should be (on average 2-3 cm). As soon as snow covers the ground, you need to additionally insulate the bed with snow.

No additional care for carrot crops will be needed in the fall, since the seeds will be in a state of suspended animation until spring. In the spring, with the arrival of warm weather, it is recommended to build a small greenhouse over the garden bed so that seedlings appear faster. This is the goal of pre-winter sowing of carrots - to harvest the vegetable as early as possible. You can simply cover the crops with film.

What varieties of carrots are suitable for planting before winter?

For sowing, choose varieties that are not prone to bolting, since seedlings that appear in early spring are more likely to shoot bolts.

It would also be a mistake to choose early-ripening carrots - such seeds germinate even with slight warming.

Some varieties are not suitable for winter cultivation. Look for relevant information on the label - if carrots are allowed to be sown in the fall, the manufacturer will indicate this.

The best varieties for winter planting:

Winter varieties of carrots
Nantes improved Losinoostrovskaya 13
Chantenay Royal Samson
Altai shortened Vitamin 6
Incomparable Queen of Autumn
Callisto Children's sweet
Dayana Moscow winter A 515
Flakke Nastena has a sweet tooth
Nectar Nandrin
Beautiful maiden Touchon

The most frost-resistant variety of carrots is NIIOH 36. This option will not let you down even in the harshest winter.

Boarding time

The main factor that determines when to plant carrots in the Leningrad region is the ambient temperature. The culture belongs to cold-resistant vegetables. Seeds germinate already at 4°C and can withstand short-term frosts. High soil moisture is also required for seeds to hatch. Gardeners practice both spring and autumn planting of carrots. Each method has its pros and cons.

Sowing carrots in autumn

In areas with a cool climate and short summers, early harvests of vegetables are especially valuable. Planting carrots before winter has a number of advantages for farmers and gardeners in the Leningrad region:

  • Possibility of obtaining a harvest 2 weeks earlier compared to spring planting, even of early varieties.
  • Possibility to use the space after harvesting for growing herbs and early ripening vegetables.
  • Saving time during the main spring work on the site.

Despite the obvious advantages of autumn sowing of seeds, it also has a number of disadvantages. There is a risk that after planting there will be a thaw, during which the seeds will hatch, which will lead to their death after the onset of frost. Carrot seeds can be destroyed by rodents or washed out of the soil when the snow melts.

Important! Root crops sown in autumn are not suitable for storage. It is used fresh.

In the Leningrad region, autumn sowing of seeds is carried out in mid-November. It is important that the soil has time to freeze by this time, and the likelihood of a temperature increase above 3-4°C has passed. High soil moisture can also lead to premature seed germination, so when planting carrots in the fall, do not water the crops. The seeds are planted in the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm and carefully sprinkled with soil on top.

For autumn plantings, use 20% more than the manufacturer's recommended seed rate to compensate for possible losses.

Sowing carrots in spring

In the spring, gardeners determine the optimal time to sow carrots based on the air temperature. In the Leningrad region, suitable weather usually occurs at the end of April or beginning of May. As soon as the thermometer reaches 4-6°C and the snow has completely melted, you can start sowing.

The seedlings can tolerate short-term night frosts down to 3-50C; lower temperatures lead to the death of the crop. In order to avoid overcooling of plantings during frosts, it is recommended to use covering material. This will also maintain the high level of humidity necessary for carrot germination.

At later dates for sowing carrots in the Leningrad region, special attention should be paid to soil moisture. The spring sun, together with the winds, quickly dries out the top layer of soil and there is not enough moisture left in it for germination and development of the crop. Mulching the beds or using white agro-cloth will help cope with this problem.

Selecting a site, predecessors - after which crops can carrots be planted?

An area for carrots should be set aside in a place that is well lit during the day.

The planting should be protected from drafts, preferably located on an elevation where there is no stagnation of moisture in the soil.

But a garden bed can only be made on a “plateau” of a hill; if you sow carrots on a slope, melt water will wash the seeds from the soil.

Carrots develop well on loose soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. In terms of composition, loam and sandy loam soils are most suitable for it.

Maintain crop rotation - planting carrots in the old place is allowed only after 3-4 years.

It is best to plant root crops where they grew before:

  • melons (pumpkins, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, melons, watermelons);
  • legumes (peas, lentils, soybeans, except beans);
  • potato;
  • tomatoes;
  • salads;
  • leek;
  • onion;
  • garlic;
  • cabbage.

Bad predecessors for carrots:

  • beans;
  • eggplant;
  • fennel;
  • celery;
  • parsnip;
  • parsley.

Beans greatly deplete the soil; other plants are susceptible to pests and pathogens that also affect carrots.

It is impossible to plant carrots in such an area earlier than after 3-4 years.

Onions will be an excellent neighbor for the crop. This alliance is mutually beneficial: onions repel the carrot fly, and carrots repel the onion fly.

You can also plant next to the carrot planting:

  • radish;
  • radish;
  • pepper;
  • tomato;
  • peas;
  • beans;
  • garlic;
  • parsley;
  • spinach;
  • salad;
  • celery;
  • marjoram;
  • sage.

Not suitable as neighbors for carrots:

  • Apple tree;
  • beet;
  • cabbage;
  • cucumber;
  • dill;
  • anise.

Proven varieties for winter sowing

Carrot varieties for winter sowing. Photo

carrot variety Dobrynya “Gavrish”

The root crop is conical with a slightly pointed tip, up to 18-20 cm, with a slightly convex head. The heartwood and bark are orange. It is characterized by a high content of carotene and sugar and uniformity of root crops.

carrot variety Monastyrskaya “Gavrish”

Root crop up to 25 cm long, 4-5 cm in diameter, conical with an elongated tip, round core. Weight 140-220 g. It is distinguished by high yield, uniformity of root crops, and, when sowing in spring, long-term storage in winter.

carrot variety Krasa maiden “Gavrish”

Mid-early, very tasty variety. Great for juices and salads. The root vegetables are bright orange, conical, blunt-ended, 14-16 cm long, 4-5 cm in diameter, very sweet and juicy. The variety is characterized by resistance to flowering.

carrot hybrid F1 Nantik Resistafly "Semko-Junior"

The hybrid is resistant to damage by carrot flies. Early ripening. The root crop is cylindrical, 16-18 cm long, almost completely immersed in the soil. The shoulders of the root vegetable do not darken or become bitter. The core is small. The content of β-carotene and sugars is very high. Very juicy - juice yield 37.6%. The hybrid is resistant to flowering.

carrot hybrid F1 Nantes Semko "Semko-Junior"

Mid-season hybrid. The root crop is cylindrical in shape with a slight slope to the base, bright orange in color, 18-20 cm long, slightly protruding above the soil surface. It has good taste. The hybrid is resistant to flowering, cracking, and tolerant to fusarium.

carrot hybrid F1 Nelly “Semko-Junior”

Early ripening hybrid. Root crops are cylindrical, smooth, leveled, 16-18 cm long, 3 cm in diameter. The core is small to medium, juice yield is 33.7%. The taste is excellent. Does not crack, is resistant to flowering, tolerant to fusarium.

carrot hybrid F1 Olympian "Semko-Junior"

Mid-season hybrid. The roots are cylindrical, 20-23 cm long, 4-5 cm in diameter, blunt-ended. The bark and flesh are orange. The root crop is completely immersed in the soil. The taste is excellent. Dry matter content 14.9%, total sugar 8.7%, β-carotene 20.2 mg%.

carrot variety Pharaoh “Search”

A variety for early harvest per bunch, very tasty. The root vegetables are smooth, bright orange cylindrical with a blunt tip, the average weight of each is 110-150 g.

carrot variety Chantenay Royal “Search”

Mid-season variety, suitable for both early harvest and winter storage (when sown in spring). Forms conical roots with a slightly pointed tip, the core is small, and the taste is excellent.

carrot variety Chantenay 5

carrot variety Children's sweet "Aelita"

A high-yielding variety of carrots with a small core and red-orange, juicy, tender and sweet flesh. High taste, increased shelf life (for spring sowing), high content of carotene and sugar.

Soil preparation

Remove previous plants from the garden bed and carefully collect all plant debris. Dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet (25-30 cm), select the rhizomes of perennial weeds.

If necessary, adjust soil parameters:

  1. The soil is too acidic. Apply 150 g of dolomite flour, 300-400 g of chalk or 250 g of wood ash to each square of planting.
  2. Clay soil. Add a bucket of sand or half-rotted sawdust per 1 m2. When fresh shavings rot, they draw nitrogen from the soil and can attract carrot flies to the garden bed, as well as other undecomposed organic matter. Add a bucket of humus to a bucket of sand.
  3. Depleted soil. Add per 1 sq. meter bucket of rotted manure. If the soil is heavy, mix it with a bucket of peat or sand. Do not use rust-colored peat, this is a sign of excess iron content.

Spread the fertilizer over the surface of the bed and dig it up. But if the soil is clayey, do not dig it deeper than 25 cm - there is even more clay in the lower layers.

It is useful to sow green manure on heavy and poor soil. When the herbs grow to a height of 15-20 cm, embed them in the soil.

Sowing seeds in the ground

With the arrival of persistent cold weather, a drop in temperature to +5°C and freezing of the soil to a depth of 5-8 cm, you can begin sowing seeds on the frozen ground. As a rule, favorable conditions occur in late October - early November. The sowing instructions are as follows:

  1. If the prepared area is covered with snow, carefully clear it with a broom.
  2. Pour dry seeds at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other into previously prepared grooves to a depth of 1 cm (for dense soil) or 3 cm (for light soils in dry areas). Seeds can simply be sown directly on the surface of the ground. To ensure accurate planting, it is better to use a special seeder for carrots, on which you can set the optimal sowing step. The seed consumption rate for winter planting is 0.8-1 g per 1 square meter. m. When planting in spring, this figure is 0.6-0.8 g per 1 sq. m. m.

    You can also sow radish or lettuce seeds in the garden bed so that in the spring they will mark rows of carrots for more comfortable weeding and loosening of rows.

  3. Seed the seeds with pre-prepared dry soil, and then mulch the bed with organic matter with a layer of 3-4 cm. The mulch needs to be compacted so that it does not get blown away by the wind.
  4. At the first precipitation, rake the snow onto the bed and press it with spruce branches to cover the layer of mulch. In conditions of little snow in winter or areas with constant droughts, it is worth additional measures to retain snow in the garden bed. To do this, it needs to be covered with a layer of coarse mulch, for example, large branches, fallen leaves, spruce and pine spruce branches.

The crops do not need to be touched until the spring thaws, since in winter the seeds will simply “sleep” in the ground.

Sowing

If snow falls, before planting carrots before winter, simply sweep it from the garden bed with a broom. Place the seeds densely in the furrow, leave 2-3 cm between them, and also sow more than one seed into the hole, but with a reserve.

It is worth expecting that approximately 20-25% of them will not sprout after a winter with little snow and thaws.

Sprinkle the filled holes or grooves with dry soil that has been stored indoors.

Some gardeners do not make holes in the garden bed, but sow carrots on a flat surface and sprinkle a layer of soil on top. In this case, you will have to prepare more soil.

Mulch the bed with humus or peat with a layer of 2-3 cm. Compact it a little so that the mulch does not blow away with the wind. When the snow falls or immediately if there is already snow, throw it with a shovel for planting. Press down with fir branches on top.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Not all carrot varieties are suitable for autumn planting. Therefore, when purchasing seeds, you need to ensure that the packaging indicates that this crop is suitable for sowing before winter. It is advisable to purchase seeds immediately from a specialized store, since their high quality significantly increases the chance of getting good seedlings.

There is no need to treat seeds with growth stimulants before planting, since when planting in autumn, the goal is not to achieve rapid germination. On the contrary, this should not be allowed, since with their rapid germination there is a high probability of losing the entire crop.

As a last resort, the seed can be dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect it from possible diseases. After soaking, they must be thoroughly dried, since seeds for winter sowing must be dry.

When sowing carrots before winter, the seed rate should be increased by 20-25% in order to insure in case of snowless weather and thaw.

Post-planting care

In the fall, nothing else is done with the garden bed. In the spring, after the snow melts, the spruce branches are removed, and a small film greenhouse (on arcs) is installed above the planting.

When the shoots appear, if the average daily temperature remains stable at +15°C or higher, the shelter is removed.

Since seeds are sown thicker before winter, it is necessary to thin out the planting in the spring.

Carry out the procedure for the first time after the first pair of true leaves have formed; at this stage you can already see which seedlings are stronger.

Leave 4-5 cm between the sprouts. After 2-3 weeks, repeat the procedure, increasing the distance to 7-10 cm.

After 3 or 4 true leaves appear, feed the plants. You can use complex products such as Fertiki or nitrophoska (a tablespoon per bucket of water).

You can prepare the mixture yourself:

  • superphosphate – 2 tablespoons;
  • potassium nitrate – 1 tablespoon;
  • carbamide – 1 teaspoon.

Dissolve these fertilizers in 10 liters of water and water the bed between the rows. It is advisable to carry out the procedure after rain or irrigate the garden bed before it.

After 2-3 weeks, repeat feeding. For the third time, fertilizer is given only to varieties with a long growing season.

21 days before harvest, prepare the same solution, but without urea, because Nitrogen at the end of the growing season is not required by plants and is even harmful.

For prevention, on the 15th day of growth, treat the planting against pests. If the spring turns out to be dry, water your carrots regularly. Irrigation should be moderate; waterlogging of the soil causes rotting of root crops.

The formation of a dry crust on the soil should not be allowed; the bed should be loosened at least after each watering or rain. You can put fresh mulch in the spring, it will prevent the soil from sticking together.

It is important to remove weeds - winter carrots often do not have enough light on short spring days, there is no need for excess shading.

Treatment of carrot seeds before planting

If purchased seeds are used - granulated or glazed, they do not need to be processed. They have already undergone pre-sowing treatment, are covered with a special nutrient layer, and cannot be soaked - otherwise the shell will dissolve. Such seeds are sown dry.

If the seeds are bought from hand or collected from your own, they will have to be prepared:

Sorting. The seeds are placed in a saline solution for 5 minutes. Specimens that float to the surface are discarded - they are not viable.

Heat treatment. The seeds are soaked in hot (50-60°C) water. After 20 minutes, they are transferred to cold water for 2-3 minutes.

Processing in a stimulator. Seeds that have passed testing are kept in a cloth soaked in a growth stimulant - Zircon or Epin. Exposure time – 24 hours.

Drying. After soaking, the seeds are dried until they flow and are immediately sown.

Harvesting

Carrots ripen around June 10-15. But the harvest can be harvested earlier - as soon as the root crops reach technical ripeness. If the vegetable has grown to 2.5 cm in diameter, it can be removed from the soil.

Carrots are dug up or simply pulled out by grabbing them by the tail if the soil is light and sandy.

Separate the tops and take the vegetables to a dark, dry, cool place to dry. Immediately harvest the crop from the garden - under the sun's rays, root crops wither, losing some of their nutrients.

To extend shelf life:

  1. Water the garden bed before harvesting. This technique will also improve the presentation of carrots and give them freshness.
  2. Remove the tops immediately, do not dry the carrots with them. The green tail draws moisture from the fruit.
  3. It is better to twist the tops rather than trim them.

Specifics of growing carrots in Siberian regions

The sharply continental climate causes the soil to warm up sufficiently in May and early June, when the time comes to plant carrots in Siberia. Residents of different regions are preparing warm beds. Carrots are by no means a heat-loving crop; they develop well in the range up to 250C. Breeders also make their contribution by zoning the most popular fruitful varieties of carrots that can be planted in Siberia.

  • For vegetable seeds, +40C is enough to germinate and give the sprout the opportunity to make its way to the light.
  • Root crop seedlings can withstand light frosts down to -40C, but lower thermometer readings significantly worsen the properties of the vegetable and its storage ability.
  • It is important to choose high-quality seeds that have enough nutrients to form the root system of carrot sprouts. Only after forming its own roots does the sprout draw its nutrition from the soil.
  • Germination slows down in cold soil. Therefore, you cannot rush to sow or you need to work with warm ridges.
  • With prolonged exposure to uncomfortable low summer temperatures, root vegetables become distorted and turn pale.
  • When planting carrots in Siberia, it is not recommended to plant the seeds too deeply.

Warning! Carrots also suffer from elevated temperatures. In heat above 300C, the root crop slows down and the color becomes less intense.

How long can you store

Carrots grown using the winter method last for 2-3 months; by the end of September, the crop must be eaten. The optimal temperature for good preservation of vegetables is 0°C. Root vegetables must be dry, otherwise they will begin to rot.

Carrots should be stored in small batches. Usually vegetables are placed in wooden boxes, which are thoroughly dried in the sun beforehand.

For greater preservation, cover the root crops with sand, some are mixed with chalk. You can put a layer of wormwood under the carrots - this herb repels mice.

By applying the recommendations in the article, you will get a good harvest of winter carrots.


Pre-winter sowing. We sow carrots before winter. Website "Garden World"

How to calculate planting dates

Even experienced farmers will not be able to accurately predict the day when to plant: sowing carrots before winter is carried out taking into account the regional climate, short- and long-term weather forecasts, and also based on many years of experience in growing root crops. Autumn weather is characterized by changeability. Optimal conditions are stable air temperature from -2 to 0 °C. It’s good if you can sow carrots for the winter a week before frost. The soil should cool, but not freeze yet. However, it is permissible to plant carrots even if the previously prepared beds are covered with snow. The main thing is to correctly decide on the variety and prepare the soil and seed for the event.

When to plant carrots in the fall according to the Lunar calendar 2021

Favorable days

  • September - 1, 2, 3, 15, 16, 24, 25, 29, 30;
  • October - 12, 13, 21, 22, 26, 27;
  • November - 2, 3, 8, 9, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30;
  • December - 2, 6, 7, 20, 21, 29, 30.

Unfavorable days:

  • September - 6, 7, 8, 21;
  • October - 5, 6, 7, 20;
  • November - 4, 5, 6, 19;
  • December - 3, 4, 5, 19.

Fertilizing the soil before planting

Carrots develop poorly both on heavy clay soils, waterlogged lowland soils, and on too light sandy soils that poorly retain moisture and are poor in nutrients. Does not tolerate areas with fresh manure or overgrown with weeds.

Conclusion: since this crop has a good “appetite”, it needs loose, loamy or peaty soils with a deep fertile layer (at least 35-40 cm).

If they are poor sandy loam and heavy clay, when digging, compost or old humus is generously added to the soil (1 bucket per 1 square meter). Or use processed organic fertilizer from chicken manure “Flumb-Kuryak” (10-15 granules per 1 m2) together with complex mineral fertilizer “Sudarushka” or “Semitsvetik” (20 g per 1 m2).

To prevent weak carrot shoots from drowning out the weeds in the spring, it is advisable to prepare the bed as early as possible, in October, so that before sowing it can be dug up several times with a pitchfork, combing out the roots of perennial weeds: sowweed, wheatgrass, sow thistle and horsetail. The bed is finally dug up and leveled before cold weather and noticeable frosts in October.

Seed preparation

Carrot seeds have a dense, hard skin. Prepare seed material before sowing to improve crop germination after 7-12 days. Untreated seed takes 14-21 days to hatch.

Use the instructions for processing carrot seeds:

  • without mixing the variety, place the seed in fabric bookmarks and wrap them;
  • immerse the workpieces for 15 minutes in cold and then in water heated to 50 degrees;
  • soak the seed for 1 day in the biological product “Zircon”, “Epin” or “Extra”;
  • place the seed material in the refrigerator for 24 hours;
  • Place the damp fabric bookmarks in a warm place (+20+25 degrees).
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