Planting spring garlic in open ground in spring: when and how to plant, timing, growing rules, care before harvest

Planting spring garlic in open ground in the spring should be done according to all the rules, then you can get a good harvest. Despite the fact that winter garlic produces large yields and has large heads, many gardeners prefer to grow spring garlic. The reason is that it lasts longer and can provide the family with beneficial vitamins until the next harvest.

Gardeners who constantly grow this valuable vegetable on their plot know some secrets. They will help beginners grow garlic with minimal losses and achieve high yields.

Spring and winter garlic: differences

In order not to confuse winter and spring garlic, young gardeners need to become familiar with the main differences.

The head of spring garlic consists of many small cloves. Moreover, the teeth located closer to the rod are much smaller. Winter garlic has a strong arrow to which large cloves are attached.
Spring garlic is planted in the ground in early spring, and winter garlic in late autumn.
The spring variety is propagated only by cloves, while winter garlic is grown by both cloves and bulbs.

Winter garlic produces high yields.
Spring garlic can be stored for 1-2 years at home. The shelf life of winter garlic is about 3-4 months. Most often it is used when preparing food (canning, pickling) for the winter.
The winter variety has a strong stem. Spring garlic does not develop a arrow. The only exception is the Gulliver variety.
Spring garlic has a more pleasant taste, so it is perfect for preparing various dishes.

Spring garlic - description

The round, somewhat flattened garlic bulb has a complex structure - in the axils of the scales, from two to fifty children covered with hard, leathery scales are formed, which are commonly called cloves or cloves. The bulbous cloves are oblong, triangular in cross-section, thickened towards the middle, with a convex outer surface. The color of the covering scales of the bulb can be white, yellowish, pinkish or dark purple.

The leaves of garlic are narrow, lanceolate, elongated, grooved, keel-shaped on the underside, pointed towards the ends, drooping or erect, reaching 1 cm in width and from 30 cm to 1 m in length. The next leaf grows from the axil of the previous one - this is how a strong leaf is formed false garlic stalk.

Growing garlic in open ground - planting and care

The flower arrow can reach a height of 60 to 150 cm; at the end it twists into a spiral and ends with an umbrella-shaped inflorescence, covered with a film before flowering. The spherical inflorescence of garlic consists of white or lilac sterile flowers, bulbs and a dense covering.

Universal timing for sowing eggplant seedlings - suitable for any region and any country!

The fruit is a capsule, but garlic does not form seeds - what are usually called seeds are actually aerial bulbs, so the propagation of garlic by these bulbs is not seed, but vegetative. Garlic seeds can be found only in ornamental species, as well as in perennial garlic, which is popular in Central Asia and does not form bulbs.

What varieties can be planted in spring

Interesting! This culture has a large number of varieties - about 60. They all have some differences: in taste, color, varieties of arrows, readiness time.

From the total quantity, everyone can choose a variety according to their tastes and needs.

Planting vegetables begins in spring. It is best to breed early and mid-ripening varieties at this time. In a short growing season, the plant should grow and form a head. Spring garlic can go through all these processes in 90-120 days.

The most popular varieties include:

Gulliver. Garlic is a mid-late variety, does not bolt, yields are high, and stores well. The heads are grayish in color, the cloves are from 4 to 8. One clove weighs 2-5 g. The stem grows up to 50-70 cm. It is very rarely exposed to diseases. A ripe head of garlic can weigh about 40 g.

Varieties for the middle zone:

Elenovsky . Refers to the average ripening period, without arrows. Garlic is white in color, the scales are dense, the head shape is round. The vegetable is resistant to various diseases.
Victorio. Spring garlic does not bolt. Refers to mid-season varieties. Mature bulbs reach a weight of 30-40 g. The size of the cloves is small. Perfectly preserved for a long time. The taste is more pleasant and can be consumed even fresh.
Sochi 56 . An excellent variety of garlic, and also high-yielding. The heads are covered with pinkish scales, some specimens acquire a brown tint. The weight of mature heads reaches 50-60 g. They contain from 20 to 30 cloves. In terms of taste, garlic is not very spicy.
Abrek. The variety is not shootable. The heads of this variety of garlic are small - up to 30 g. The scales are quite dense, its upper layer has a creamy tint. Garlic is spicy to taste. Harvesting is always a joy.
Kledor. The plant does not shoot, it is mid-season. Garlic is large, sometimes reaching up to 6-7 cm in diameter. The heads have white scales, the inner layer of which has pinkish septa. The teeth have a dense consistency and taste sharp.

In regions with cold climates, experienced vegetable growers also grow garlic. Some types of spring garlic are suitable for growing in such weather conditions.

Novgorod. Belongs to mid-late varieties. The growing season is 120–130 days.
Aleysky. A mid-season variety of garlic ripens 110–122 days after planting in the ground.
Novosibirsk. The ripening period of a mid-season vegetable variety is from 75 to 85 days.

Above were examples of some types of spring garlic that are planted in early spring. It is advisable to grow several varieties of this vegetable in order to choose the right option for yourself.

Advice! You can try to grow new types of this crop, which are more adapted to the conditions and type of soil, and also produce high yields at minimal cost.

Types and varieties of garlic

Garlic can be spring or winter. In structure, both varieties are similar, but there are significant differences between them: in spring varieties, medium-sized cloves are arranged in several rows, and in winter varieties, the bulbs consist of one row of large segments. In addition, in winter varieties of garlic, after ripening, part of the flower shoot remains in the bulb - a kind of dividing rod around which the bulbs are located, but in the bulbs of spring varieties there is no such rod, since it does not shoot.

Winter garlic can be planted in the spring, but in this case it will not have time to split into cloves by the fall, so it is better to plant winter varieties in the fall. Winter garlic reproduces by both cloves and bulbs.

Planting and caring for winter garlic

To get a good harvest, you need to choose the right variety of garlic. Since spring garlic does not tolerate changes in climatic conditions, it is necessary to choose zoned varieties for planting. Varieties of spring garlic are divided according to ripening periods into early, mid-ripening and late, as well as into bolting and non-bolting, although this division is conditional: in a cool climate, bolting varieties may not produce bolts, and non-bolting garlic in a southern climate, on the contrary, acquires the ability to throw out peduncles. Shooting varieties are often grown as winter crops.

Anyone can grow carrots like this - is it worth planting before winter and does it need to be watered at all?

The most famous varieties of spring garlic are:

Gulliver is a productive, disease-resistant, long-storable mid-late garlic of universal use. This is the largest spring garlic, the heads of which weigh 95-115 g, although sometimes they can weigh 250 g. The bulbs are covered with gray scales and contain 4-5 large cloves of pungent taste;
Aleisky is one of the best spring varieties zoned for the conditions of Siberia, although it grows well in warmer climates. The variety has good yield, the average weight of the head can reach up to 25 g. In terms of taste, this garlic is considered spicy. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to fusarium;
Elenovsky is a recently bred universal frost-resistant, disease-resistant, productive, non-shooting variety of medium ripening with densely structured heads weighing up to 35 g, consisting of 7-9 cloves. The main advantage of the variety is its ability, if properly stored, not to lose quality for 2 years;
Sochi 56 is an early-ripening, consistently productive variety, resistant to diseases and cold conditions. The head weighing up to 45 g is covered with white durable scales. The variety has an excellent taste, which is due to the presence of sucrose in its composition. Sochi bulbs are stored for a year and a half;
Permyak is a non-shooting mid-season variety intended for cultivation in summer cottages in the northern regions. The average weight of the head is 34 g, the number of cloves in the onion is 15-16 pieces. The taste is very pungent due to the high content of essential oils. Garlic can be stored for no more than 10 months;
Victorio is a mid-season, productive variety with a semi-sharp taste, also intended for growing in garden plots. The bulbs weigh 40 g and contain up to 13 cloves. Garlic of this variety can be stored for 8 months;
Abrek is a very sharp-tasting mid-season variety, the heads of which, consisting of 13-16 cloves, reach a mass of 25 g. Shelf life - no more than 7 months;
Moskovsky is a non-shooting, mid-season, high-yielding, low-sharp variety with rounded multi-toothed heads of high keeping quality with an average weight of up to 14 g;
Ershovsky is also a semi-sharp, disease-resistant, non-shooting variety, the bulbs of which consist of 12 cloves and can weigh up to 35 g. The shelf life of garlic of the Ershovsky variety is no more than 7 months;
Degtyarsky is a variety of Ural selection with bulbs weighing up to 38 g, consisting of 15-18 cloves. The outer scales are reddish, covered with purple streaks. Leathery pink scales. The pulp of the cloves is white, with a pungent taste. Shelf life is no more than 10 months.

The following foreign varieties of spring garlic for open ground have also proven themselves to be excellent in our latitudes:

Cledor is an elite French mid-season productive variety with high resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases. The head reaches from 45 to 55 mm in diameter and contains from 16 to 20 large cloves in a pink integumentary shell;
Flavor is a mid-season French variety with a medium-sharp taste, well known in Western Europe. The heads in shiny pale pink scales reach a mass of 80 g, small pastel cream-colored teeth with a total number of 15 to 20 are arranged in two rows. When properly stored, the variety retains its quality until the next harvest.

Landing dates

Garlic is planted in the spring, and the sowing time depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. Garlic cloves can be planted in soil warmed to +3-5 degrees. This crop tolerates light frosts well, which may unexpectedly occur during this period.

In the central zone of the country, for example, the Moscow region, sowing of this vegetable begins in mid-April - the first ten days of May.
In the southern regions of Russia, garlic can be planted in open ground in the last ten days of March – the first ten days of April.
In Siberia and the Urals, garlic is sown in May.

According to the lunar calendar

will help determine favorable days for planting . In it you will find out the most favorable days when you can start planting cloves in the ground. The main thing is that this crop cannot be planted during the full moon and new moon.

Planting dates and bed preparation

Despite the fact that spring garlic is planted in the spring, the bed for it needs to be prepared in the fall. This variety of crop feels good in fairly light and fertile soils (sandy loam, loam) with a neutral acid-base reaction. High acidity can be neutralized by adding dolomite flour, the “heaviness” of the soil with sand, and its “lightness” with powdered clay.

Choose an open, sunny place for the garden bed. It is advisable to have some kind of barrier nearby to protect it from the north wind. A slight slope is also welcome - in this case, rapid water drainage is ensured. Spring garlic categorically does not tolerate stagnation of moisture at the roots. For the same reason, planting it in lowlands is excluded - melt and rainwater sit there for a long time, and cold, damp air accumulates.

The garlic bed must be dug deep, simultaneously cleared of plant and other debris.

The selected area is dug up to a depth of 35–40 cm, adding all the necessary fertilizers in the process. For 1 m² you will need approximately three glasses of sifted wood ash, 4–5 liters of humus or rotted compost and 10–15 g of complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Nitroammofoska, Azofoska, Ammofoska). In the spring, before planting, the bed will need to be thoroughly loosened again.

Compared to winter garlic, spring garlic needs more nutritious soil; everything necessary is added to the soil in the fall.

We must not forget about crop rotation. Bad predecessors for garlic are any bulbous plants (including flowers), carrots and plants from the Solanaceae family. Any legumes and grains, greens, all types of cabbage, pumpkins (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, squash, melons) are suitable in this regard. The crop can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 5 years.

Carrots for garlic are a bad predecessor, but a very useful neighbor

Spring garlic benefits the garden when planted near roses, berry bushes, and garden strawberries. It effectively repels many common pests of these crops, especially slugs and weevils. But proximity to cabbage, peas, and beans is undesirable - garlic inhibits their growth.

Garlic planted in the same bed as garden strawberries effectively repels slugs from berries - pests do not like the pungent smell

The time for planting spring garlic is determined by the climate in the region. By this time the soil should warm up to 5–7°C. But you can’t delay too much, otherwise the substrate, saturated with melt water, will have time to dry out. But the crop does not like excessive dryness of the soil, as well as heat. In warm southern regions, planting can be planned for the end of March, in areas with a temperate climate - for the last ten days of April. In the Urals, Siberia and the Far East, the deadlines are moved forward by another 2-3 weeks.

Spring garlic must be planted in moist soil.

The bulbs feel comfortable and begin to form roots already at an air temperature of 4–8°C. As soon as stable warm weather sets in (above 12–15°C), the development of the root system stops and the formation of the bulb begins. If the plant does not have strong enough roots by this time, it will not be able to provide it with nutrients in the required volume, which will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the harvest.

There is no need to be afraid of returning spring frosts. Spring garlic is much less cold-resistant than winter garlic, but it will successfully survive small negative temperatures.

Site selection and soil preparation

The place for planting garlic is chosen in the fall. It should be well lit by sunlight. When preparing the site and soil for sowing garlic, it is necessary to take into account some nuances.

To grow this vegetable, it is best to choose a cultivated area with fertile soil. This vegetable grows best on loamy and chernozem soil. Also, garlic takes root on light loamy or sandy loam soils with a neutral reaction.
The site should be in an open and well-lit place, protected from cold winds.

Important! Areas where snow and moisture lie for a long time negatively affect the cultivation of garlic and their subsequent harvest.

It is advisable that the site be located at a slight slope to drain excess moisture.
To obtain a high yield, it is necessary to fertilize the soil well before planting. To do this, the following composition is prepared per 1 m2: humus, compost - 1 bucket each, superphosphate, nitrophoska - 1 tbsp. spoon, dolomite flour - 1 cup.
The last stage of preparation will be disinfecting the beds with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate solution. After 2 days, the site will be completely ready for planting vegetables.

Advice! Experienced gardeners advise covering the beds with transparent film before starting work.

Landing technology

To properly plant spring garlic, you must adhere to the following instructions:

Make furrows 3–5 cm deep in the soil at a distance of 25–30 cm from each other.
Place the cloves in the soil, bottoms down, maintaining intervals of 6–8 cm.
Sprinkle the planting material with soil.
Compact the soil.
Water thoroughly (if the soil is dry).
Mulch using straw, sawdust, compost, peat, humus. The recommended mulch layer is 2–3 cm.

Active growth of foliage and roots begins after a month.

The best and worst predecessors

It is known that thanks to successful crop rotation, you can get a high-quality harvest.

Important! It is good to plant garlic in an area where the predecessors were crops such as oats, mustard, peas, cucumbers, zucchini, and strawberries.

Garlic does not do well in the area where root crops grew last season: potatoes, beets, carrots, etc.

You should not plant garlic after nightshade crops, for example, tomatoes, eggplants, bell peppers.

How to grow very large garlic

Large, good garlic is the dream of every gardener, which can become your reality, you just need to know some tricks and secrets, which we will look at in this article!

Garlic needs fertile soil that has a neutral reaction. The best predecessors in the garden are early cabbage, cucumbers, and zucchini, under which organic fertilizers were applied.

Garlic should not be placed after onions and garlic earlier than 4-5 years due to common pests and diseases that accumulate in the soil, so be sure to alternate plantings. It is not recommended to grow garlic after potatoes, as these plants are affected by fusarium. In the autumn, after harvesting the previous crop, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the garlic (5-6 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2). Dig up to a full bayonet.

How to prepare spring garlic for planting in spring

Preparation of spring garlic begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting. Planting material is not afraid of cold weather. It is packaged in clean bags and placed on the site in holes up to 50 cm deep. The top is covered with earth, dry leaves, and the top is covered with plastic film. In this form, garlic can withstand even severe frosts.

Interesting! Garlic is most often grown vegetatively. The winter variety can also be propagated using bulbs. Spring garlic reproduces well by cloves. These are a kind of buds that have a growth point and the beginnings of greenery.

Cloves for growing spring garlic can be purchased for planting in special stores, on the market or online. Before you buy garlic to plant in the spring, it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with some of the varieties that will work best in your area. They will ensure a minimum of losses and a good harvest.

It is necessary to plant healthy and strong cloves of spring garlic in open ground. They should be medium and large in size, weighing more than 3 - 6 grams.

Before planting, the cloves are separated from the head, while retaining the scales.

Garlic, which has only 2-3 cloves, is not suitable for propagation, since it has already outlived its usefulness. Therefore, it should not be used as planting material.

Watch the video! Spring garlic. Preparing for landing

Garlic grown independently as planting material must be sorted before planting. For propagation and further storage, choose strong and large cloves.

Smaller specimens can be planted in an area with potatoes, carrots and other vegetables to repel harmful insects. In the future, it can be used for preserving and preparing dishes in the summer.

In order for garlic cloves to germinate 100%, develop well and produce high yields, they must be treated according to all the rules before planting.

Dry the heads well and separate them into cloves without damaging the scales.
For planting, select the largest and most intact cloves.
A few days before planting the seeds, they can be wrapped in a wet cloth and placed in the refrigerator. This way, the garlic cloves will grow roots faster.

Before planting the planting material on the site, it is processed.

3 ways to process planting material:

Garlic cloves are placed in a bowl with warm water and kept there for 10-12 hours.
Table salt (3 tablespoons) is diluted in warm water (5 liters). Garlic cloves are kept in this solution for 2-3 minutes.

For disinfection, the quite effective drug Fitosporin, which has long become popular among gardeners, is also suitable.
There are some other ways to treat seeds, for example, in an ash solution. This procedure should last about 30 minutes.
Also, before planting garlic, it is important to disinfect the material. To do this, the slices can be kept for 1-2 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate in the ratio: 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.

The next step in the preparation of garlic cloves will be to process them in a growth stimulant such as Epin, Zircon or others.

Harvesting and storing spring garlic

Spring garlic is harvested in the second half of August, when two-thirds of its leaves turn yellow and fall off. Do not overexpose garlic in the soil, otherwise you will get a low-quality product with cracked scales, decaying cloves and a bottom that has begun to grow. A couple of weeks before harvesting, stop watering and rake the soil away from the heads to allow them to ripen and dry faster.

Choose a dry day and start harvesting: dig up the garlic with a pitchfork, remove it from the soil, shake it off and lay it out to dry. You can dry garlic directly in the garden for 5 days, and if it rains, move the bulbs under a canopy, or even better, in a ventilated room. Dry the garlic along with the leaves. As soon as it dries, shorten the roots of the bulbs, leaving no more than 3 mm, trim the leaves, and trim the stems to 10 cm, then sort the garlic by size and store it.

Store spring garlic in a dry and well-ventilated place at a temperature of 2-4 or 16-20 ºC. You can weave garlic into braids, as our grandmothers did, or tie them into bundles, or you can pour the bulbs into a mesh bag or nylon stocking and store them in a suspended state. Garlic is also kept in wicker baskets and wooden boxes made from boards. When storing in plastic or glass containers, sprinkle the heads with coarse salt, which absorbs moisture well.

Rules for planting spring garlic in open ground

Garlic cloves are planted in rows. A distance of 20 to 25 cm is maintained between them.
Depending on the size of the lobules, the distance between them is determined (approximately 6-10 cm).

In spring, the tines are buried 5-6 cm into the ground. Moreover, they should only be in a vertical position. When planting in autumn, planting material is placed in the ground to a depth of at least 10 cm. In this case, the garlic will be protected from winter cold.
In the autumn, planting beds must be covered with mulch. It can be dry leaves or grass. After the snow melts, the covering is removed.

Watch the video! Planting spring garlic.

How to properly harvest

When to Harvest

The signal for harvesting is the drying of the lower leaves or their yellowing and lodging. The harvesting period occurs in the first half of September. Even with early planting, if the weather is unfavorable during the growing season, the garlic may not have time to ripen. To speed up the maturation process, the following measures are used:

they undermine the bulbs without completely pulling them out of the ground;
tie the leaves in a knot.

How to do it right

The roots of the plant firmly anchor it in the soil, so garlic should be dug up when harvesting so as not to tear the leaves off the head. The dug up garlic is set aside for ventilation in the garden bed for an hour or two, then the soil is shaken off and laid out to dry in a ventilated, dry room. You can hang garlic tied in bunches in the attic or barn.

Carefully! Drying garlic under the scorching rays of the sun is not allowed. Burns will significantly worsen the safety of the crop.

It is necessary to avoid mechanical damage and the integrity of the covering scales through which the bulbs become infected. After drying, cut off the roots and leaves at a height of no less than 5 cm above the top of the head. When weaving into braids, the leaves are not trimmed. For storage, use paper, linen, or wooden containers with holes for ventilation. For cold storage the temperature should be +1-5°C.

Care

When the first shoots appear, the plant needs to be given proper care: loosen the soil and weed it from weeds.

Particular attention should be paid to watering.

Important! During the development period, garlic requires abundant watering, but does not like stagnant moisture in the soil.

Watering

During the formation of heads, watering should be reduced so that excess water does not cause the vegetable to become infected with certain diseases. Also, you need to stop watering during rainy weather. 14 days before harvesting garlic, stop watering.

Top dressing

As soon as the first shoots appear and until the fruits ripen, the plant requires regular feeding with nutrients. Only in this case can you get a high-quality harvest in large quantities. This crop has a delicate root system, so it is difficult for it to freely absorb beneficial elements found in the soil.

After the first shoots, nitrogen fertilizers can be added to the soil. When the above-ground part of the plant grows to 6-10 cm, you can use the following fertilizer:

15 g of ammonium nitrate are diluted in 10 liters of water;
Urea solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water);
Bird droppings are diluted in water in a ratio of 1:12;
Mullein with water (1:10).

Important! Fresh manure can only harm vegetable plantings. At the beginning of summer, it is recommended to fertilize garlic with infusions of fresh herbs.

Over the entire summer period, it is necessary to feed the vegetable with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers 2-4 times.

It is also good to use an infusion of wood ash for feeding. To do this, take 150 g of the substance and dilute it in 10 liters of water.

Important! When fertilizing garlic, special attention should be paid to the norms, since an excess of fertilizer affects the quality of the cloves.

20 days before harvesting, it is recommended to water the beds with the plant with a solution of potassium monophosphate.

Watch the video! How to feed garlic.

On our website there is a separate article on how to feed garlic.

Planting and caring for spring garlic

Planting: sowing cloves in open ground - in early spring, when the soil warms up to 5-7 ˚C.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
Soil: cultivated fertile sandy loam or loamy soils of neutral reaction.
Watering: during the period when the garlic is growing greens, watering should be plentiful and frequent, in the second half of the growing season it should be moderate, and in rainy weather the ripening garlic may not be watered at all.
Fertilizing: when leaves appear and again two weeks later, the soil is fertilized with nitrogen: herbal infusion, mullein solution (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12). During the period of clove formation (late June or early July), the area is fertilized with ash. Feed garlic until mid-August, without getting carried away with mineral fertilizers.
Reproduction: vegetative – by teeth.
Pests: onion flies, thrips, moths, secretive proboscis, hoverflies, stem nematodes, root mites and four-legged garlic mites.
Diseases: black mold, fusarium (bottom rot), downy mildew (downy mildew) and white rot.

Read more about growing spring garlic below.

Pest and disease control

Despite the fact that garlic has a repulsive odor, it is susceptible to attack by many harmful insects. Also, the heads can be infected with bacterial and fungal diseases.

This culture is able to independently fight many diseases. However, at the first suspicion of a disease, you should immediately help the plant.

Garlic can be attacked by harmful insects such as moths, root mites, thrips, hoverflies, onion flies, etc.

The most dangerous diseases for garlic are white rot, black mold, downy mildew, and fusarium.

Advice! To protect vegetables from insects and diseases, you need to carry out the necessary preventive measures in a timely manner and strictly follow all the rules of agricultural technology.

It is important to choose high-quality planting material for sowing. Immediately after harvesting, you need to re-sort it and get rid of low-quality damaged cloves.
With good feeding and regular loosening of the soil, garlic becomes more resistant to diseases.
A densely growing plant must be thinned out.
You should start monitoring the condition of the vegetable after germination.
To prevent insect attacks, the area is treated with ammonium sulfate (20 grams of substance per 1 square meter).
In mid-June, this fertilizing needs to be applied again. Sick and weak plants need to be dug up to inspect the roots to determine the causes of this condition.

Rotten roots, yellow feathers or spots on them may be a sign of a fungal disease.

Bulbs affected by brown wounds, darkening of scales and a putrid odor indicate diseases of bacterial origin.

In case of fungal infection, the vegetable is treated with the following preparations:

Gamair-TM. Dilute 2 tablets of the product per 1 liter of water.
Alirin-B. You need 1 tablet diluted in 1 liter of water.
Biological products will help fight harmful insects:
Lepidocide. Add 50 milliliters of product per 10 liters of water.
Bitoxibacillin. 35 milliliters of poison are diluted in 5 liters of water.

It is important to prevent the attack of the stem nematode. Small worms suck the juice out of the garlic. Soon its tender roots dry out and the head of garlic falls apart. This pest is difficult to control, as a result of which it can completely destroy the crop. Many gardeners plant plants like calendula and chicory between rows of garlic to repel worms.

Preparation of planting material and planting technology

Getting a good harvest is impossible without high-quality planting material. This is also affected by its storage conditions. The experience of gardeners shows that garlic that has been kept at room temperature over the winter takes longer to ripen, but forms larger bulbs. Cloves stored at temperatures close to 0°C yield faster, but the heads are small.

Cloves without mechanical damage and dents, with elastic pulp, weighing 3–6 g are suitable for planting. Those on which the slightest suspicious traces are noticeable, reminiscent of symptoms of damage by diseases and pests, are immediately rejected. Although smaller ones will do. They can be placed between rows in other beds to repel pests. They will go for greens. It is not recommended to select heads with a small number of cloves for planting. This is already degenerating garlic; it definitely won’t give a good harvest.

Planting material must be chosen very meticulously; the volume and quality of the future harvest depends on this

To “wake up” the planting material, whole heads are placed in the refrigerator for two to three days 2 months before planting, wrapped in a damp linen napkin or gauze. As the fabric dries, you will need to periodically moisten it. The larger the head, the longer it is kept in the cold.

Some gardeners instead practice heating the garlic for 8–10 hours in hot (40–45°C) water or germinating it (place it in a plastic bag, wrapped in a damp cloth, and leave it on a sunny windowsill). The heads are disassembled into individual cloves no earlier than a day before planting, so that the bottom does not have time to dry. Only remove the dry husk from the outside without damaging the inner shell.

Disinfection is carried out 10–12 hours before disembarkation. Spring garlic cloves are immersed in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% copper sulfate for 2–3 hours. You can also use an infusion of wood ash or a solution of table salt (10 g/l) for these purposes. And for the prevention of fungal diseases, any copper-containing preparations are useful - fungicides (Fitoverm, Kuprozan, Horus, Skor, Abiga-Pik). To speed up the germination process, biostimulants are used - Kornevin, Zircon, Epin.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most common disinfectants

Video: preparing garlic for planting

Garlic is planted with an interval between rows of 25–30 cm. The optimal depth of the furrow is 3–4 cm. With greater depth, the development of the plant is slower. The cloves are placed every 8–12 cm with the bottom down. The larger they are, the more space is left between future bulbs. It is not recommended to press them into the soil and compact the substrate after planting; you can damage the planting material. If groundwater comes close to the soil surface, it is advisable to raise the bed by 15–20 cm.

The interval between adjacent cloves when planting depends on their size

The furrows are covered on top with a mixture of humus and peat chips, mulched with dry leaves, sawdust, and straw, creating a layer 2–3 cm thick. Mass shoots can be expected in 10–12 days.

Spring garlic shoots appear quite quickly and uniformly

Video: planting spring garlic in the ground

Predecessors and neighbors

Garlic in open ground cannot be planted in beds where onions, root crops and potatoes were previously grown. Root crops have a developed root system and greatly deplete the soil. Although our hero is not a very fastidious plant, in good areas he responds with a good harvest. The most suitable area would be for cabbage and pumpkin crops. For neighbors you need to choose plants that will not shade the beds with garlic. The area should be well lit. Like all onions, garlic does not like stagnation of moisture. In low areas it is raised onto ridges. Soils with a neutral environment are most suitable for growing spring garlic. It grows more easily on denser soils and clay soils - for this it is necessary to maintain an aeration regime.

We select the most beautiful heads for planting material

Separation of spring garlic by climatic zones

Spring garlic includes species that are well adapted to different climatic conditions.

The table shows the climatic zones and species that grow well in them:

Terrain and climate	Recommended varieties
Northern region	Permyak, Victorio, Gulliver, Sochinsky 56.
Southern region	Arbek, Ershovsky, Aleysky, Elenovsky, Gafuriysky, Dyagtersky, Demidovsky.
Moderate climate (with possible changes)	Moscow

We looked at 20 types of spring garlic. All of them have the best qualities: dense structure, spicy and rich taste, high concentration of vitamins and nutrients compared to other varieties of garlic, low susceptibility to viral diseases and rotting, and the ability to retain beneficial properties during long-term storage.

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For the North-West

In the regions of the European North, winter and spring varieties of the crop are successfully grown. Of the latter, it is advisable to choose early and disease-resistant varieties in order to obtain a stable harvest every season.

Popular:

Porechye - this summer garlic will delight summer residents with excellent productivity. From 1 m2 0.9-1 kg of spicy vegetable is collected. The variety is included in the catalog of the State Register of the Russian Federation, forms small heads (23-25 grams) with 12-20 cloves. Color - white. The taste of the flesh is semi-sharp, the structure is dense. Used as a seasoning and component of various dishes.

The nugget is durable and can be stored in the pantry for up to 10 months. In terms of productivity, it is inferior to some species; 0.5 kg is collected from 1 square meter. The teeth have white flesh and are covered with pink scales. The upper husk (dry) is white. The nugget is resistant to diseases and is almost not affected by pests.

Schunut - ripens in about 105-110 days (mid-season), forms large onions, up to 47-50 grams. The teeth are dense, 14-16 pieces in the head. Dry scales with purple streaks, leathery ones - pure white. The shelf life is similar to other varieties (up to 10 months), harvest from 1 square meter is 0.38-0.4 kg.

Spring varieties for planting in Siberia and the Urals

Hot but short summers and long winters are the features of the climate of these harsh regions. For planting, select early and mid-season garlic, which has time to form heads before autumn.

Gardeners prefer the following types for growing:

Permyak is a variety recently bred by domestic breeders. Gives stable yields in all regions, recommended for risky farming areas. The leaf blades reach 30-35 cm in height, the color is pale green. The bulbs are slightly flattened, round, weigh 30-35 grams. The outer husk is whitish with purple veins, the pulp of the cloves has a pinkish tint. This variety tastes medium hot. If storage rules are followed, it will last for 8-10 months without spoilage.

Flavor - grows well in temperate climates. Forms large bulbs weighing up to 80-90 grams. The color of the scales is cream. The pulp is dense and has a semi-sharp taste. Like other varieties of French selection, Flavor is stored for a long time (up to 11-12 months).

Aleysky - heads with light dry scales, weigh 38-40 grams. Slices with dense pulp are arranged crowded together, the number reaches 13-19 pieces. If storage conditions are met, it can last up to 7-9 months. The harvest is harvested at the end of August, 0.8 kg is removed from 1 square meter.

Uralets is garlic with average yields. The cloves are planted in the spring and harvested at the end of summer. From 1 sq. meters you get 0.3 kg of vegetables. The plant produces light green leaves with a slight waxy coating, bulbs up to 30-35 grams. The color of the integumentary scales is white with purple streaks, the flesh is very dense, the taste is good, pleasant, you can feel the rich pungency. There are 16-20 cloves in one head.

All about diseases and pests

Like all garden crops, spring garlic is susceptible to various diseases . The most common include:

cervical rot;
bacteriosis;
green mold;
yellow dwarfism.

The causative agent of cervical rot in the tissue of the head mainly penetrates through various mechanical damage. The disease is not immediately noticeable; signs appear at the beginning of storage, most often in September. Measures to combat this disease are to dry the garlic in the sun before planting. When trimming the head, be sure to leave a neck of 3-6 cm.

Bacteriosis also occurs during storage . On the diseased heads, grooves or sores are visible that go from the bottom upward. The bulbs acquire a yellow-pearl color. The reason may lie in violation of storage conditions or improper preparation of garlic before planting.

Green mold affects the tissue of the cloves, which become soft. They are covered first with a white and then with a green coating.

The main sign of yellow dwarfism is that the leaves and peduncle of the plant begin to turn yellow . The garlic looks very small. This disease is transmitted by aphids.

Garlic can be damaged by pests such as:

onion fly;
nematodes;
onion sharpener;
onion leaf beetle.

To combat them, pesticides are used.

Want to know more about the varieties of garlic? Read our articles about wild, Chinese and black.