Why raspberry shoots wither: description of the reasons, control measures

Raspberry shoots wither: introduction

If you want to get a good and healthy raspberry harvest, then you need to properly care for it. By its nature, raspberries are not a capricious berry, but if they are not given proper attention and care, they can quite often be attacked by various insects and diseases, which will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the harvest. There are times when recently well-flowering shoots suddenly begin to fade. What could cause this and how to deal with it will be discussed in more detail in our article.

What is chlorosis and how to treat it

A disease that often infects raspberry bushes is chlorosis. Based on the nature of its origin, it is divided into:

Parasitic, which is spread by parasites, mainly aphids and mites.
Non-parasitic, depending on weather, planting and maintenance conditions.

What does a bush infected with this virus look like:

leaves turning yellow first in the center and then entirely;
shoots become thinner and stretch out
the berries either do not form at all, or half ripen and the other half dries.

Raspberry bush affected by viral chlorosis The fight against chlorosis should begin immediately after planting the plant. To do this, there are a number of means for spraying the plant and protecting it from sucking insects. If you want to harvest this year, you should process it in 2 stages:

In early spring, before the buds open, use a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 0.2% solution of Nicotine sulfate.
Before flowering, emulsion 30% Methylmercaptophos.

At least 45 days must pass before raspberries begin to ripen after spraying.

If chlorosis was caused by unfavorable weather conditions, watering with cold water or a lack of organic compounds, you need to try to correct the quality of plant care:

normalize watering with warm water, it is better if it is river or lake, heated in the sun;
make the soil more fertile by applying mineral fertilizers;

Applying mineral fertilizers to raspberry bushes

soften the soil with forest litter or peat.

Remember that it is easier to protect against a disease than to treat it later.

Raspberry shoots wither: what could be the reason

Often the reason for the wilting of young shoots may be that the plant has been attacked by a certain pest. Often the cause of this phenomenon can be the appearance of: • Stem fly • Gall midges. • Purple spotting. Most often, the only way out to get rid of this scourge may be to prune the diseased bush. In this case, you need to make sure that not a single hole or larva remains. In this way, a healthy bush will be able to recover faster and better after an infection and bring a good and healthy harvest. Chemicals can only be used when more than half of the bush is infected.

Pests that cause drying out

What to do if raspberry branches with berries dry out due to pests? They usually attack flowers and leaves, but often affect other parts of the bush. Therefore, the protection of culture should be taken responsibly.

Spider mite

It is located on the underside of the leaves and sucks the juices out of the plant. The web first causes the leaves to dry out, and in case of serious damage, the branches also suffer. The mite manifests itself as small light spots, and then a white coating appears. At the first manifestations, colloidal sulfur or Karbofos should be used.

Raspberry beetle

The female individual of this insect lays up to fifty eggs per season. Already in June, the offspring begin to eat the bush. To prevent the beetle from appearing, you should dig up the garden in the fall, and use a product such as Guapsin in the summer.

Aphid

When the buds mature, the first generation of aphid larvae is born. When it attacks raspberries too much, its branches and leaves suffer. A characteristic manifestation is a sugary coating on the leaves. Folk remedies help get rid of the parasite. But they are not effective enough. Experts recommend resorting to powerful chemistry - for example, Kilzara.

Young raspberry shoots wither: the reason is the stem fly

You can understand that the plant was attacked by this insect by the appearance of the plant. The top of the stem begins to wither, the leaves turn black and die over time. To begin the fight against this pest, you need to understand how it develops. The fly spends the winter in the soil, and in mid-May it begins to emerge to the surface, laying larvae inside the leaf axils located at the top. The larvae begin to gnaw out passages in young shoots, which leads to withering and death of the bush. As soon as you notice that this insect has settled in your raspberry, the affected part of the bush needs to be cut back to a healthy part of the stem. Everything that you cut must be burned, loosened the soil and treated with a nitrophen solution. To carry out preventive measures, as soon as the buds appear, you need to treat them with karbofos. To avoid the appearance of this insect, it is necessary: • Before the winter period, dry leaves and debris must be cleared from the surface of the soil. Then you need to loosen the soil and cultivate it. Harmful insects and microbes can accumulate under the leaves, survive the winter, and then come out in the spring and can then harm the bushes. • After the winter period, you also need to remove all excess and debris, loosen the soil and fertilize. Good and proper care is the key to good growth and development of raspberry bushes.

Reason 1: parasitism by phytopathogenic fungi

In spring, young shoots begin to grow on raspberries. They are the ones who are primarily susceptible to infection by parasitic fungi. Leaves and berries are affected.

Spores of the fungi Didymella applanata and Bortytis cinerea enter the soil with rain or groundwater. Mechanical or insect damage facilitates rapid penetration.

Fungi infect raspberry bushes with purple spotting and gray rot. Fungal spores overwinter on branches and buds. With the arrival of heat, the growth of the mycelium is activated, penetrating into the stems. Favorable conditions for the development of gray rot are excessive soil moisture. Photo: babushkinadacha.ru

Why raspberry shoots wither: the reason is gall midge

Many summer residents are faced with the fact that in the middle of summer the bush, along with the flowers, begins to fade. The reason for this may be the presence of gall midges. The presence of this insect can be recognized by a routine inspection of the bush in spring and autumn. If there are no leaves on the raspberry bushes, but there are thickenings on the branches - galls containing larvae, then this means that the bush has been affected. The pest is most often located below, closer to the roots. This has a weakening effect on the raspberry bush, reducing resistance to winter frosts. Galls can appear several times during the season, until the onset of the first frost. They wait out the winter season in the ground, at a depth of about 30 cm. To begin the fight against this pest, it is necessary to prune the bush in the spring and clean it for sanitary purposes. To do this you need to do: • Cut out all damaged shoots • Thin out the bush. Most often, gall midges are attracted by the presence of fungal diseases on the bush. Therefore, it is better to start fighting the fungi first. Therefore, in order to prevent the appearance of fungi, it is necessary to spray the bushes before the buds open with Bordeaux mixture. In order to prevent the spread of fungi, it is necessary to cut off the shoots that have spawned, first on the early varieties, then on the middle ones, and then on the late ones (in the autumn). After making such pruning, you need to spray it with products that contain copper. In order to begin the fight against galls as early as possible, you need to inspect the bushes every day and remove those that are already infected. Traditional methods of control have also proven themselves to be quite effective in the fight against this insect. mullein infusion, walnut leaves, wormwood and nettle leaves are good for this. You can treat with a solution of the above herbs in the evening, then you can get the best effect.

Fighting raspberries

How to deal with raspberries? All raspberry varieties produce basal shoots - some less, others more. This shoot spreads throughout the raspberry forest, and if you don’t care, it will even end up where it shouldn’t be. The easiest way is to trim unnecessary shoots with a sharp shovel to a depth of ten centimeters, but leave them in the same place where they will gradually dry out. In order to protect the garden from raspberry shoots entering it, the raspberry patch is fenced with pieces of slate dug into the ground to a depth of 35-40 cm.

You can also plant garlic or sorrel, or even better, beans, around the raspberry bushes, and this measure can stop the growth of the shoots. If you grow raspberries on your plot not in a strip, but in a bush way, then you can plant them in barrels or buckets dug into the ground without a bottom, and then the root system will not grow in breadth and, therefore, will not be able to produce shoots. It has been noticed that applying nitrogen fertilizers not in spring, but in autumn, significantly reduces the number of root shoots.

Purple spot

This very dangerous disease can harm more than half of the plantings. It's all about the fungus, which negatively affects the bushes, weakens and kills them. The onset of this disease most often occurs in mid-summer. Spots appear and begin to spread throughout the bush. This leads to withering of the shoots, death of the petioles, and drying out of the fruits. The bushes die even before the fruits begin to ripen. If you do not start fighting this pest in time, then thanks to its spores, the fungus can be transferred to healthy bushes. What can you do to avoid contracting this disease? • Those shoots that have been infected must be cut off to the very root. • In summer it is necessary to thin the soil. • It is necessary to choose a place for planting a crop (there should not be nearby bodies of water). • Water correctly; the soil should not be waterlogged. • Remove all weeds in a timely manner and loosen the soil near the bush. • Choose varieties that have good resistance to diseases. In order to protect the bush from possible infection, in the spring you need to cut off the branches that have spawned, as well as those branches that have already dried up, and weak ones that will definitely not be able to bear a harvest. Be sure to burn what you cut so that fungal spores cannot be transferred to healthy bushes. What needs to be done to treat infected stems: • Apply Azophos (50%). For 10 liters of water use 80 g of product. • Bordeaux mixture (1%). For 10 liters of water you need to take 100 g of lime and copper sulfate. • Nitrophen solution. You need to dilute 300 g of the substance in 10 liters of water. • 1% ready solution of DNOC. Treatment with these products should be carried out before the flowering process begins, as well as after harvesting.

Diseases as a factor in raspberry drying out

Violation of agricultural cultivation techniques contributes to the infection of raspberries with various diseases.

Inaction of gardeners in such cases leads to a decrease in yield, and sometimes to the complete death of plants.

Let's look at the most common raspberry diseases.

Chlorosis

Aphids and many other insects are carriers of a viral disease called chlorosis. The virus overwinters in soil and last year's foliage. With the arrival of the first warm days, it penetrates into the plant through open wounds and other damage to the bark and roots.

At the beginning of summer, yellowed veins of the leaf blade can be seen on the affected raspberries. Gradually the entire leaf becomes damaged and dries out. Young shoots become thinner and become very elongated. The berries dry out and fall off. Already in the next season, the affected plant does not bear fruit. The disease cannot be treated and requires the complete destruction of the bushes.

Anthracnose

Another common raspberry disease is anthracnose. It appears on the leaves in the form of brown spots with a dark edge. Over time, characteristic holes appear in the affected areas. Leaves fall prematurely. Flowers and stems dry. The berries are also damaged and become unsuitable for food.

To protect raspberries from anthracnose, gardeners use many folk remedies. One treatment option is to spray raspberries with a solution consisting of 10 liters of water and 20 grams of mustard. This is an absolutely safe method, so you can treat the bushes at any time.

Root cancer

Lumpy growths with orange veins on the roots and root collar signal the onset of root cancer. Already this year, the growth of the lower shoots is stopping and they are becoming very thin. Premature yellowing of the foliage is observed, the berries become smaller and dry out.

It is impossible to detect and effectively fight root cancer in a timely manner, because the disease can only be clearly seen by digging up the plant. Unfavorable weather conditions, soil poor in microelements, and growing raspberries in a permanent place for many years increase the development of root canker.

Rust

With the onset of warm spring days, yellow-orange tubercles appear on the raspberry leaves, which gradually turn red? This rust is a fungal disease that affects young shoots and foliage. Within a few weeks, clusters of light orange spores will appear here, which gradually turn red. Over time, grayish sores with an orange border can be seen on the shoots. The affected areas of the leaf gradually turn brown, and a dark coating can be found on the underside. Gradually, the leaves dry out and fall off, and the yield decreases noticeably. Massive spread of rust is observed in regions with high humidity.

Mosaic

Aphids living in the garden often become carriers of a number of diseases called mosaic. The disease is activated in cool weather and long periods of rain.

It is easily recognized by its characteristic spots that stand out against the background of healthy dark green foliage.

Young shoots are gradually affected: they become thinner and stop growing. There is a change in the taste of the berries, and the yield decreases.

Verticillium wilt of shoots

This disease spreads to the bark, roots and shoots. It is not so difficult to understand that the plant is sick: young leaves and shoots begin to turn yellow, the tops begin to fade. The stems begin to slow down in growth and die. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. Those bushes that are affected must be cut off along with the roots and must be burned. To prevent the occurrence of this disease, you need to use healthy planting material, as well as loosen the soil.

Raspberry shoots wither

How to treat raspberries, when and how against gall midges

Treatment of raspberries against shoot gall midges is carried out in the spring, before emergence occurs

It is important to have the event on time, otherwise secondary infection will occur. Treatments are carried out in late to mid-April, when the soil warms up to 10 ... 12 C

When using modern means of protection, carefully read the instructions: the temperature at which the drug is effective must be indicated.

The shoots are sprayed, especially in the lower part, the tree trunk circle, and the green parts, especially the lower tiers, are thoroughly treated. Processing is carried out after collection.

Of the old products, not very recommended due to high toxicity - 0.75% solution of karbafos, as well as fufanon, decis, BI-58. It is strictly not recommended to use higher concentrations, especially for repeated treatments. Treatment with Bordeaux mixture is also often recommended - it is not always effective.

When using all drugs, it is important to remember the high toxicity of any of them. Carefully weigh the harm from losses and the harm that can be caused by frequent, uncontrolled, excessive use of drugs

It’s easier to change the planting material, cut out the plantation at the roots - believe me, this is the most effective way for mass distribution than spending money on ineffective or expensive drugs.

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What to do: rescue operations plan

It happens that the berries are already beginning to turn red, and the leaves curl and dry out, in order not to lose the harvest, you need to find out the problem and, without delay, begin to eliminate it.

If the leaves turn yellow

Raspberries react negatively to micronutrient deficiency, excess and lack of moisture. When physiological chlorosis develops, the bushes are fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen and watered with diluted bird droppings, but potassium salt, manure and superphosphate are not added. Raspberries turn yellow and dry out from the heat; in dry and hot weather, you just need to water the plants more often with warm water. When it rains frequently, irrigation must be abandoned.

If the leaves dry out and curl during fruiting

Aphids carry viruses that cause yellow mosaic. The disease may not appear for a long time, but during the ripening of the berries, light spots appear, the tops of the leaves curl and become deformed. To prevent the development of the disease, treat the bushes with fungicides. The drugs “Inta-Vir” and “Iskra” are used to cope with insects that carry pathogenic microorganisms. Diseased leaves are torn off and burned.

If the stems dry out

At high temperatures, excess humidity and thickening of plantings, anthracnose pathogens are activated. The raspberry shoots become stained and the stems dry out. To prevent the onset of the disease:

Remove weeds regularly.
Weeding the plantings.
In the spring, the raspberries are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
A solution is prepared from Alirin B and the plants are treated every ten days in the summer.

It is useless to treat infected bushes; they need to be removed and burned, and the ground should be treated with copper oxychloride and the fungicide Oxyx.

If the raspberries dry out on the site along with the berries

To prevent the plant from drying out during the fruiting period, it is necessary to follow agricultural practices when planting, regularly feed and water the bushes, remove old shoots, and thin out young shoots. Such methods help strengthen the immune system. To protect against fungi and viral infections, raspberries are treated with Bordeaux mixture, Oxychom or urea. If the plant dries out due to pest invasion, use the insecticides Actellik and Intavir. It is better to dig up the affected bushes and burn them.

If the branches dry

Raspberry berries are formed only on one-year-old shoots; the old ones begin to dry out and die. Regular pruning allows you to rejuvenate the bush. Branches dry out when there is a lack of moisture. In this case, water the raspberries abundantly. If the plant is damaged by insects, begin treatment with insecticides.

Glassware on raspberries

Raspberry glass worms have similar worms. But in this case, the caterpillars overwinter at the base of the stem. The raspberry glass looks like a blue-black butterfly. Her body is thin, her wingspan is up to 26 millimeters. Males have transverse yellow stripes on their abdomen - 4 pieces. Females have 3 of them.

The white 27mm caterpillars have yellowish-brown heads. Thoracic and anal scutes of similar colors. Pupae are light brown. They reach 24 millimeters in length.

Raspberry response to extreme conditions and measures to overcome their consequences

Symptoms	Reasons, time	Events
The outer covering tissues are cracked along the entire length of the stem, the exposed cambial zone and buds are green but dry, the buds do not develop	Withering. More often in autumn, with a sharp change in weather: early snow, which then melts, rain and snow, a drop in temperature to -20°C and deep thaws, strong winds. The process is completed in winter as a result of freezing of moisture from damaged tissues.	Early in spring, remove the damaged ground part and form a new one from suckers and replacement shoots. Replace varieties that are systematically damaged. If this is typical for all varieties, then the stems should be bent down for the winter and protected from rain, wind and temperature fluctuations.
The stem tissues are dirty gray-greenish (wood), brown (bark), brown-black (buds); buds don't develop	Freezing. In the autumn-winter period at critical temperatures in the absence of snow.	Same
Buds do not develop at the ends (1-20 cm) of stems	The buds and stem tissues froze and dried out. More often in the fall with a sharp onset of cold weather after a rainy summer and for other reasons for incomplete growth. The process ends in winter.	In spring, trim the ends of the stems to a well-developed living bud. Eliminate the reasons that contribute to prolonged growth (do not water or apply nitrogen fertilizers after August 1, do not allow plantings to thicken, conduct a thorough fight against diseases, pests, and weeds).
The buds on the upper part of the stem do not develop to a level that was not covered with snow	The stems and buds on them froze and dried up to the level of snow due to low temperatures and temperature changes with strong dry winds in the middle of winter.	Trim the damaged part of the stems to a living bud; if it happens systematically with all varieties, then it is necessary to introduce bending of the stems for the winter and hilling them with snow.
Up to a certain level (20-30 cm from below), the buds on the stem are alive and developing; above - mostly dead, but there are also living ones; Fruit branches develop in the upper part, flowering and berry set are common, but then wilting follows. At the established level, the stem tissues along the ring are dirty gray-greenish, dark brown	The stem tissues froze at the snow level. Usually on sunny days in February with low snow cover with a rough ice crust on the surface and with periodic snow settling.	Early varieties require additional irrigation and loosening of the soil, and careful control of spider mites. On late varieties, at the first signs of wilting of leaves on the stems, additional pruning is required just below the ring damage.
Some buds in the middle part of the stem do not develop	The buds at the top of the “arc” froze in winter, since the middle part of the shoot (the top of the arc) was left uncovered in the shoots bent to the ground for the winter.	Regular but more thorough care. In the future, bend the stems so that they are located horizontally at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface.
The covering tissues in the lower part of the stems are cracked and peeling off. The buds along the entire stem develop almost normally	Damping off as a result of a violation of the temperature regime or under early fallen snow, or under heavy snow cover in the autumn-winter period, or under water in the spring.	Regular care, more attention to soil aeration, and in summer to providing plants with moisture. If the area is systematically flooded with melt water, take measures to drain it.
From the main bud several fruiting branches with few buds develop. The berries ripen normally.	Partial freezing of the main bud, its central inflorescence, and vascular bundle in winter. Development occurs due to embryonic buds in the axils of the embryonic leaves.	Routine care with great attention to irrigation at the time of flowering and berry set.
The main buds do not develop. Additional ones are touching growth. A well-developed inflorescence is formed from them.	The main bud froze completely in December-January.	Same
The tops of green shoots and replacement shoots wither somewhat in the spring, the bark is easily separated, and the wood is dirty gray-greenish.	Freezing as a result of spring frosts (below -6°C)	Regular care, do not force growth with additional irrigation and nitrogen fertilizers. In case of a large area and a very severe degree of damage (the upper half of 30-40 cm of shoots dies), pruning at a height of 10 cm or removing them completely (especially in varieties with high shoot productivity).
The inner parts of some buds and flowers are dark brown; many berries are ugly and crumble into drupes.	Freezing of stamens and pistils during frosts in spring.	Most likely, it will not be possible to help the plants. The browned flowers will fall off and there will be no harvest on these branches this season. Routine care.
Symptoms	Reasons, time	Events

You may be interested in the following information:

Chlorosis in plants: how to treat
Gooseberry pest - the sawfly in the caterpillar stage can eat all the leaves

Root rot (phytophthora) of raspberries

This disease, caused by fungi of the genus Phytophthora, develops for a long time unnoticed by the observer. It is most often associated with heavy soils and poor drainage. In waterlogged areas, the roots are quickly exposed to the fungus and cease to provide the plant with the necessary vitality. The bush begins to wither and fade. The leaves turn yellow, turn red and begin to dry out. Subsequently, the shoots die and dry out, and then the bush itself.

You should carefully examine the raspberry root system. Dig up the plant and scrape off the epidermis from the top layer and at the root collar. The fabric should be snow-white. On infected roots, the tissue takes on a brick-red hue. Plants affected by late blight do not form new shoots, unlike those damaged by cold. The spores overwinter in the ground and, when suitable conditions arise (high temperature and humidity), begin to penetrate the roots. Stagnation of water at the roots allows spores to actively develop, depriving the plant of its strength. Unfortunately, there is no absolute “cure” against raspberry late blight, nor are there varieties with 100% resistance to this disease.

Measures to combat root rot (late blight) of raspberries:

Purchase seedlings grown only in special laboratory conditions and greenhouses, without contact with the ground.
Provide plants with drainage, for example, by growing them in beds and not planting them in wetlands with a high groundwater level.
Use Polyversum WP, Prestop, Paurin and other similar fungicides according to the instructions.

In what season are raspberry bushes most susceptible to wilting and drying out?

Stem dieback syndrome is more common in midsummer. The shoots and leaves begin to dry when the branches have already begun to bear berries. Raspberries love the sun, but they grow quickly, the plantings thicken, it becomes more difficult for the bushes to get nutrients, and some of them dry out, while others continue to develop.

The culture is demanding of nitrogen. If mineral fertilizers have not been applied to the soil since spring, by summer the reserves of the substance decrease, the raspberries stop growing, begin to wither, and the ovary crumbles. On sandy soil, nutrient salts do not stay long and are washed away by water.