What to do with a greenhouse in the fall: processing, preparation for winter and the new season

Probably, on every plot of a private house or dacha there is a greenhouse or greenhouse. And in order for the cultivation of vegetable crops to bring maximum results, without unexpected difficulties in the form of outbreaks of diseases and pest invasions, you need to take care of your greenhouse. Therefore, after harvesting, it is very important to prepare the greenhouse (polycarbonate, film, glass) for winter and the next season.

By the way! The optimal timing for such autumn events is after harvest and before frost.

Why is autumn treatment of the greenhouse necessary?

It would seem, why do you actually need to treat the greenhouse in the fall after harvesting? Why can't we leave everything as it is? Under no circumstances should you let the situation take its course! And there is a very good reason for this.

The fact is that this structure is a closed system; various pests, pathogens, pathogenic microflora, residues of fertilizers, fungicides, and insecticides accumulate in it. At the same time, they can accumulate not only in the soil, but also on the walls and on plant debris.

If they are not destroyed by pathogens and pests, they will quietly overwinter. And with the onset of warmth in the spring, they will begin to actively reproduce, and then terrorize young seedlings and vegetable crops, which will reduce the quality and quantity of the harvest or completely deprive you of the desired fruits. Low soil fertility will lead to a poor harvest.

Due to dirt on the roof and walls, the greenhouse becomes darker, and poor lighting will negatively affect the plants and yield. In addition, it is easier to remove ice from a clean surface if necessary.

Key stages of processing a greenhouse in the fall and preparing it for winter:

1. Elimination of all plant residues in the room.
2. Washing and disinfection from the outside and inside.
3. Soil preparation: digging, treatment and disinfection against diseases and pests, sowing green manure.

Tips from experienced gardeners for processing a greenhouse in the fall

Let's listen to the practical advice of experienced gardeners:

• when deep autumn sets in, it is better to leave all the windows and doors open for a while: the frosty air will kill any accidentally surviving pests. In addition, the temperature inside the room will be equal to the outside, and this will eliminate the appearance of ice and snow will not be able to damage the roof of the building;
• if winters are snowy, then it is better to strengthen the greenhouse with supports;
• It is better to make roof supports T-shaped, this will protect the roof during heavy snowfalls;
• Before using any disinfectant, you should study how it affects the soil;
• Don’t forget to fertilize, because plants pull everything out of the soil in one season!

There are also ready-made sulfur bombs that are easy to use PHOTO: oteplicah.ru

Experienced gardeners recommend clearing snow from the roof in winter, and closer to spring bringing it into the beds inside PHOTO: i.ytimg.com

Fertilizing the greenhouse: we do it in the fall

Applying fertilizers before winter will help prepare the soil for the next planting season. In the fall, organic matter is added in the form of peat, manure, sawdust, and compost. To understand what should be added, check the acidity of the soil.

Manure also causes concern among many, since late blight may appear as a result. PHOTO: teplicno.ru

In the fall, superphosphate and potassium are added. Wood ash contains many microelements. During the winter period, improvements will occur in the soil due to the introduction of such additives, so do not neglect this important point.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself greenhouse made from scrap materials. Design features, the use of various materials to create a reliable load-bearing frame and high-quality cladding, step-by-step installation instructions with rules for choosing a suitable location on a plot of land are in our publication.

Cleaning up plant residues in a greenhouse

Plant debris (leaves, tops, rhizomes) and mulch may contain pathogens of dangerous diseases. The first step in cleaning a greenhouse is to remove absolutely all plant debris from it after harvesting . These include any parts of plants (tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, eggplants, bell peppers, etc.) that were grown in it, weeds. In this case, they must be removed along with the rhizome .

In addition, you need to remove all the mulch!

Advice! Parts of plants and mulch should not be taken to the compost heap or to another part of the garden. It's better to burn them right away!

Why treat a greenhouse in the fall?

Immediately after the structure has been harvested, it is necessary to begin its disinfection, which includes a set of measures. Thanks to this, it will be possible to destroy the causative agents of many diseases, including late blight, and parasites.

As a result of such actions, it will be possible to significantly reduce the likelihood that crops grown in the greenhouse in the new planting season will suffer from diseases. In addition, activities carried out in the fall make it much easier to prepare the greenhouse structure for the new sowing season.

Treatment of the greenhouse structure: washing and disinfection

Throughout the season, the greenhouse becomes dirty both outside and inside. Dirt, cobwebs, and moss stick to its walls, leaves fall on the roof, dust accumulates, and stains from precipitation accumulate. The structure may be contaminated with pathogens of fungal diseases, infections, and pathogens. For this reason, it is very important to wash and disinfect the structure in the fall to prepare it for the next season and winter.

Important! In the fall, any damage to the metal frame must be treated: brushed, primed with an anti-corrosion agent and painted. If this is not done, the structure will continue to corrode and collapse.

Greenhouse flushing

The primary task in the fall is to wash the greenhouse structure . It is necessary to prepare tools: rags, a broom, a window mop, a hose, detergents (more on them a little later).

First, you can walk with a broom and brush away obvious dirt and cobwebs.

The outside of the greenhouse can be washed with plain water , and it is optimal to do this with water pressure from a hose or simply rinse with a mop. The roof and outer walls need to be cleaned thoroughly, washing away all dirt, dust and leaves.

Note! Any twines or ropes to which you tied the plants must be removed from the room (preferably burned). However, if you feel sorry for getting rid of them, you can soak them in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 40-60 minutes.

What is the best way to wash the inside of a greenhouse? There are several options and recipes for detergents:

• Laundry soap (one bar) per bucket of water.
• Baking soda (2 tablespoons) in a bucket of water.
• Mustard powder (2 tbsp) in a bucket of water.
• Tar or laundry soap (100 grams), 70% acetic acid (1 teaspoon), a bucket of water.
• If there are mosses and lichens on the structure, then a five percent solution of copper sulfate can be used for these areas.

It is necessary to clean the walls and roof of the greenhouse from the inside according to the following scheme:

• It is necessary to apply a cleaning solution to the surfaces. It is best to use sponges for walls and a mop for ceilings.
• Leave the solution for 5-10 minutes (in this case, you need to leave the structure and wait outside).
• Then you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with plain water.

Note! According to the same scheme, you need to process the racks, the equipment that is used in it, the supports (regardless of what material they are made of - wood, metal).

Disinfection (disinfection) of the greenhouse

It is necessary to disinfect a greenhouse in the fall with potent drugs only if it has been damaged by diseases and pests.

If your vegetable crops grew safely and no signs of diseases or pests were identified, then you can simply limit yourself to simple surface cleaning, which was described above.

So, the structure can be processed using a sulfur bomb or using chemicals.

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb is a very effective way to disinfect the internal surface of a greenhouse and soil. Using this disinfection method, pathogens of fungal and bacterial infections, mold, and pests can be eliminated. Fumigation should be carried out at an air temperature of at least +10 degrees.

Important! Before using the sulfur bomb, you must carefully study the instructions and follow all the rules described in it!

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb to disinfect a greenhouse is carried out according to the following rules:

• Shortly before the event, you need to wash the inside of the structure. Then dig up the soil with the bayonet of a shovel so that the smoke penetrates deeply into the soil and more thoroughly eliminates pathogens and pests in it.
• The sulfur block must be placed on any hard surface (brick, tile). Then you need to set the checker on fire using paper.

Important! The smoke (sulfur dioxide) released when burning a bomb is very dangerous for humans ! Immediately after setting the checker on fire, you need to leave the greenhouse and enter it no earlier than 3-4 days later!

• 4-5 days after using the smoke bomb, you need to thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse, and then wash the surfaces of the structure from the inside again and remove the soot.
• After fumigation, it is imperative to restore soil fertility, because beneficial bacteria and fungi die along with pathogenic microorganisms. For these purposes, you can use, for example, the drug “Fitosporin-M”, “Baikal EM1”, “Azotofit”.

In what cases is it not recommended to use a sulfur bomb?

• In greenhouses with a frame made of unpainted (non-galvanized) metal profiles. A chemical reaction will occur leading to corrosion. However, if the design contains small metal parts, they can be protected by lubricating them with grease.
• Also, some manufacturers do not recommend fumigation with a saber in polycarbonate greenhouses , because it will cause the surface of the material to darken (the lighting will deteriorate, which is very bad for plant photosynthesis). However, this is only possible with frequent processing. And as experience shows, many summer residents do not notice any negative changes after the procedure.

Use of chemicals

Important! When using chemicals, you must follow the safety rules:

• It is necessary to use personal protective equipment: respirator, safety glasses, rubber gloves, aprons.
• You cannot stay inside the greenhouse during processing for more than 5-10 minutes.
• After the procedure, you need to thoroughly wash your hands, face, and mouth.
• It is necessary to carefully study the instructions for use of the drug and follow safety precautions.

Instead of using a sulfur bomb, you can treat the greenhouse in the fall using chemicals:

• Copper sulfate. If your plants have previously been exposed to diseases, then you need to dilute 150 grams per 10 liters of water. If there were no signs of disease, then for prevention purposes you can dilute 80 grams per 10 liters of water.

Important! Copper sulfate cannot be used annually, as it accumulates in the soil and negatively affects plants! In general, copper-containing preparations should be used very carefully!

• Bleaching powder. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 400 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water, leave for several hours, and then strain.

Important! After treating the greenhouse, you need to immediately close it completely (both the door and the windows) and leave it for 2-3 days, and then ventilate it well.

The use of chemical fungicides has a negative effect on beneficial soil microorganisms, so after treatment it is necessary to shed the soil “Fitosporin-M”, “Baikal EM1”, “Azotofit” . However, such products are effective at temperatures above +10 degrees.

Rinse and dry the irrigation system

When water freezes, it can break pipes and connections, which means that the irrigation system, if you have one, needs to be dried out for the winter. However, before you start blowing out the pipes, clean and disinfect them. This can be done using a solution of orthophosphoric acid or the drug Pekacid and its analogues. Fill the system with it and leave for 2-3 hours, then rinse with strong pressure with clean water and dry.

If there are barrels of water in the greenhouse in the summer, empty them and disinfect them with a similar product, and leave them empty for the winter. It is also advisable to remove and remove drip tapes from drip irrigation systems.

Autumn treatment of greenhouses against pests

Treating a greenhouse against pests in the fall is an extremely important stage in preparing the structure for wintering and the new summer cottage season in the fall. If you do not take pest control measures for the winter, pests can successfully overwinter indoors and encroach on vegetable seedlings in the spring.

To achieve maximum effectiveness, it is necessary to use the most suitable insecticide preparations for a particular pest:

• Nematode - for example, the drugs Carbation, Chloropicrin, Nemagon are suitable. Before using the insecticide, you should soak the soil with boiling water for an hour.
• Aphids - Kinmiks, Iskra, Karate, Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, sulfur bomb.
• Whitefly - Fitoverm, Confidor, Aktellik, Aktara.
• Putin tick - Fitoverm, Aktofit, Vertimek, sulfur bomb.
• cricket, wireworm, cockchafer larvae - Medvetoks, Zemlin, Rubit Rofatoks, sulfur checker. In this case, it is recommended to first spill the soil with boiling water, and then use the drug.

In this case, you need to spray not only the soil, but also the structure itself.

Soil treatment after diseases and pests

There are two approaches to ridding the soil in a greenhouse of pathogenic microflora and larvae of harmful insects - disinfection and replacement of the top layer of soil.

Treating the soil with chemicals is undesirable in a greenhouse, where harmful substances are less actively washed out by precipitation throughout the year, and the inability to use crop rotation often forces such treatments to be carried out for several years in a row. The disadvantage of the second method is its complexity.

Soil disinfection

Soil treatment with chemicals can only be carried out in autumn. If you do this shortly before planting seedlings, the roots of the tomatoes will absorb harmful substances from the soil, some of which will accumulate in the fruits.

If tomatoes are exposed to diseases, it is recommended to spray the soil with one of the following products:

• solution of copper sulfate (10%);
• Bordeaux mixture (10%);
• solution of iron sulfate (2.5%);
• drug "Fitosporin-M" (only if the soil temperature is above 10°C).

To combat the larvae of harmful insects, you need to treat the soil:

• drugs “Trichodermin”, “Fitoverm”, “Gaupsin”;
• 4% bleach (in case of spider mite infestation, the concentration of the solution should be increased to 10%).

Soil replacement

It is recommended to remove a layer of soil of about 15-20 cm, this will remove most of the overwintering fungal spores, pest larvae and bacteria. In addition, the main layer of weed roots and seeds is located at this level.

Having removed the top layer of soil, in its place you need to put a mixture of peat, sand, rotted manure and compost. It is useful to add wood ash, mowed grass, and leaves to it. A new layer is dug up, mixed with the remaining soil, after which the soil in the greenhouse is mulched with straw.

Interesting! If, after harvesting, you dig holes in the ground, fill them with dry leaves or hay and cover them with soil, you can speed up the warming of the soil in the spring. The leaves will begin to rot, heating up as a result of this process and increasing the temperature of nearby soil areas.

Proper carrying out of all autumn work in the greenhouse will allow you to obtain fertile soil free from pests and fungi by spring for growing tomatoes and other crops. Neglecting sanitary measures in the greenhouse is unacceptable, since in the case of many microorganisms and insect larvae, even frost is not an obstacle to successful wintering.

Preparing the soil for winter: treating against diseases, digging, replacing, sowing green manure

Treating the soil against pests is very important for properly preparing the greenhouse for winter. In addition, it is necessary to dig, replace the top soil layer (if necessary) and sow green manure.

Advice! It is optimal to do autumn soil preparation at the end of September, in the first half of October. It is very important to be in time before the first frost!

Digging the soil

To achieve maximum efficiency in soil disinfection, it is necessary to first dig up the area in the greenhouse.

You need to dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel . At the same time, after digging, there is no need to disassemble clods of earth and loosen them.

In addition to the fact that spraying the soil with fungicides will be the most effective, the soil will freeze better in winter, which will have a positive effect on the elimination of pathogens and pests.

Soil disinfection

The most important stage in preparing a greenhouse for winter and the new dacha season is preventative tillage of the soil against diseases in the fall. After all, it is easier to prevent them by spending a little time on prevention, rather than then spending energy on eliminating the disease, treating plants and saving the harvest.

Important! As noted above, when using chemicals, you must follow safety precautions: use personal protective equipment, do not stay in the room for more than 5-10 minutes, follow the instructions, and then thoroughly wash your hands, face, and mouth.

To disinfect soil to prevent diseases, you can use:

• Chemical fungicides , for example, preparations Hom, Oxychom, Quadris, Bravo, 1% copper sulfate (100 grams per 10 liters of water), Bordeaux mixture.
• Biological preparations , for example, Fitosporin-M, Baikal EM1, Trichodermin, Baktofit.

Advice! If the plants in your greenhouse area have not previously suffered from diseases, then it is better to use biological preparations, because they are safer, and also heal the soil and restore soil fertility.

At the same time, to achieve the greatest efficiency, it is recommended to re-cultivate the soil after 2 weeks.

If the plants in your greenhouse have been exposed to diseases, then the following preparations can be used for effective treatment in the fall:

• Against late blight, you can treat the soil with a solution, for example, Hom, Abiga-Pik, Consento, Revus, Fitosporin-M, 3% Bordeaux mixture.
• To combat powdery mildew, you can shed the soil with a solution of Topaz, Gamair, Quadris, Tiovit Jet, Fitosporin-M.
• Against brown spot (cladosporiosis), you can use Hom, Fitosporin-M, Pseudobacterin-2, Polyram, 3% Bordeaux mixture.
• against fusarium in the fall with Oxyx, Trichofit, Gamair, Energy, Previkur.
• For treatment against root rot, you can use the drugs Trichodermin, Baktofit, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Planriz.

By the way! As already noted in this material, sulfur bomb perfectly disinfects the soil.

Important! If you use any chemical fungicides, then after them you must definitely restore the soil microflora, for example, using Fitosporin or Baikal EM1, Baktofit.

Replacing the top fertile layer

In the soil under greenhouse conditions, over time, fertilizers, remnants of fungicides, insecticides accumulate, and if disinfection is insufficient, pathogens accumulate. Therefore, once every 3-4 years it is recommended to replace the top fertile layer of soil in the greenhouse (the first 10-15 centimeters).

Replacing the soil improves the quality of the soil, minimizes the risk of developing diseases and breeding pests (however, it is not a complete guarantee of this!).

The old soil layer can be spread out on your site, but if you are sure that the soil is of poor quality, then it is better to take it somewhere outside your site.

In place of the old soil, you can bring regular soil from your site. But it is better to use a mixture to create a fertile soil layer: peat, humus or compost, sand (all ingredients in equal proportions). It is also advisable to add ash to the mixture (200 grams per square meter).

Note! If the procedure is not possible for you, then you can do without replacing the top layer of soil in the greenhouse and simply spread the above ingredients on the surface (or better yet, dig up the area with them).

Sowing green manure in a greenhouse

Green manure is very useful for any soil in your garden, including in a greenhouse. Sowing green manure will bring many benefits: they loosen the soil, improve its air exchange, saturate the soil with nitrogen and other useful substances, and promote soil disinfection. Therefore, it is highly recommended to carry out such preparation of the soil in the fall for winter and the next summer season.

It is optimal to sow green manure at the end of September or at the beginning of October. If you don’t have time to plant them at the right time, you can do winter sowing in November.

For a greenhouse, it is optimal to sow the following green manures:

• white mustard;
• Vika;
• rye;
• alfalfa;
• phacelia.

You can sow seeds simply by scattering them around the perimeter of the structure. Or you can make furrows and plant green manure in them, and then seal them with a rake.

After planting, you should water the soil (it is more effective to use not just water, but a solution of Fitosporin).

When sowing in early autumn, it is necessary to regularly water the soil for 15 days (preferably every day). Or mulch with compost or agrofibre to retain moisture.

At the end of autumn, it is necessary to check the condition of green manure. If they have grown enough, then you need to cut them at ground level and leave them on the site. If they have grown quite a bit, then you can leave everything as is for the winter.

Important! It is necessary to sow green manure in a greenhouse in the fall after disinfecting the structure and soil (i.e., after fumigation with a saber or spilling a solution of a chemical fungicide). If planted before such treatment, the green manure will die.

Application of organic fertilizers

If you have a greenhouse growing vegetable crops that love fertile soil, for example, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers, etc., then it is recommended to use fertilizers in the fall. It is advisable to fertilize the soil if you have not replaced the topsoil.

Organic fertilizers are suitable - compost, humus (1 bucket of organic matter per square meter of area). Afterwards you need to dig up.

Cleaning the greenhouse

Greenhouse cleaning work begins with clearing debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the onset of frost.

Step 1. Remove all remnants of vegetation from the greenhouse, including leaves, fruits, tops, roots and other elements. The remains of green biomass may contain pests and pathogens of plants - for example, late blight, spider mites and other parasites. It is advisable not only to send all collected vegetation to the compost heap, but to burn it.

Vegetation cleaning

Attention! The pests remaining on the plant parts of the flora easily endure the winter, and in the spring they begin to actively reproduce and spread. That is why it is especially important to burn plant remains if the crops living in the greenhouse were sick in the summer.

Step 2. Completely remove part of the top layer of soil - this is where parasites and pathogens live. It is advisable to do this, but the work is labor-intensive and costly, so many refuse this measure of greenhouse preparation.

Replacing soil in a greenhouse

Attention! The soil in the greenhouse cannot be replaced with that which is on your summer cottage. It must be brought from another place, or better yet, purchased in a store.

New soil must be store-bought or brought from another place

Fortunately, in not completely advanced cases, the soil does not need to be changed - it is enough to disinfect it, but this is the next stage in preparing the greenhouse for winter.

Soil prices

priming

Step 3. Using a shovel, dig up the top layer of soil (about 5-10 cm) and sift through a coarse sieve. This will help to select from it the larvae of pests that have settled in for the winter, as well as remove remnants of roots and leaves.

Sifting the soil

Step 4. Now proceed to other work that concerns cleaning the greenhouse structure itself. Carefully inspect the frame and covering for cracks and crevices. If there are any, seal them with regular sealant.

Using sealant

Step 5. If you find chipped paint and rust on the metal frame, then sand these places with sandpaper, prime and paint. This will prevent corrosion from occurring. If the frame of the greenhouse is wooden, then remove or clean the places where the moss has appeared.

Chips and cracks need to be cleaned, primed and painted.

Attention! It is advisable to treat places where moss grows with herbicides.

Step 6. It's time to wash the greenhouse. Prepare a soap solution by diluting a little grated laundry soap (about 1/3 of a whole bar) in warm water, and rinse with a rag or sponge soaked in it the entire covering of the greenhouse, inside and out. Pay special attention to joints, gaps and small details. Rinse off the soap with water; it is advisable to carry out this procedure at least twice. By the way, you should not wash a polycarbonate greenhouse in hot weather - this can have a bad effect on the coating.

On a note! To clean the joints between structural parts, use an old toothbrush.

It is convenient to clean the joints between the elements of the greenhouse with an old toothbrush

Step 7. Let the structure dry thoroughly.

Step 8. If the greenhouse is covered with film, then remove it (the film), roll it up, and put it away until spring. If pathogens were noticed in the greenhouse in the summer, then wait at this stage: remove the covering material only after disinfection.

The film is removed from the greenhouse

After the greenhouse has been washed from all sides, you can proceed to the next stage of preparing it for winter and the next season - disinfection.

General recommendations for preparing a greenhouse for winter and the new season

In general, everything is described above about how to treat a greenhouse in the fall and prepare it for winter, but I would like to note a few more features and rules for caring for the structure in the autumn-winter period:

• It is necessary to treat not only the greenhouse and the soil with fungicides, but also the tools that are used in it (secateurs, rake, shovel, hoe, saw, etc.). After all, if they are not disinfected, they can become a source of infection. After processing, you need to move them to a dry, closed room.
• If the reliability of the frame does not inspire confidence, then at the end of autumn you can strengthen the frame so that it does not collapse under the weight of snow. The easiest way is to place wooden or metal supports inside the structure.
• Also, if the structure does not seem reliable, then in case of heavy rainfall it is recommended to remove snow from the roof surface.
• In winter, the door to the greenhouse must be closed so that wind and bad weather do not damage the structure. However, if the manufacturer of the building recommends leaving the door open for the winter, then it is better to follow this advice (but again, if your region has very frosty winters and strong, cold winds, then it is better to open only the window and securely fix it).
• At the end of winter or early spring, it is recommended to throw snow into the greenhouse so that the soil is saturated with melt water. Bringing snow earlier is not recommended, because the ground covered with warm snow is more favorable for wintering pests. In addition, soil without snow freezes better, which is very good for preventing pests and diseases.

Autumn is a time of intensive preparation for winter and caring for the garden after harvest. We should not ignore greenhouse structures and greenhouses, because they help us get a good and tasty harvest of vegetables. Also, don’t put it off until spring; it’s much more efficient to do everything in the fall. Besides, there is so much to do in the spring, so you will spend your time and energy rationally.

Complex disinfection of greenhouses

In the case where pests have multiplied in the greenhouse or the cultivation room is heavily infected with a fungal, viral or bacterial infection, there is no time for selectively targeted treatment. It is necessary to use complex preparations with a wide spectrum of action and sacrifice beneficial soil microflora.

Such potent agents include:

• “Bleached lime”;
• “Copper sulfate”;
• “Bordeaux liquid”;
• “Farmayod”;
• "Formalin".

Treatment of polycarbonate greenhouses in the fall with these products is carried out after the removal of plant residues and washing.

Let's learn more about these products and how to dilute them before use.

Copper sulfate

The drug is presented as a blue-blue powder. To prepare the working solution, you need to dissolve 1 tbsp. l. products in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured onto the soil and the walls of the greenhouse structure are sprayed.

To a greater extent, it affects various fungi, and also has a detrimental effect on some bacteria and individual insects.

Farmayod

Essentially, it is an aqueous solution of iodine. To use it, it must be diluted in warm water until a light brown color is obtained. Use the prepared solution to treat the soil and greenhouse structures to remove harmful bacteria.

Instead of Farmayod, you can use potassium permanganate. The result will be similar.

Bleaching powder

Sold in hardware stores in the form of a white powder. It is used in dry form (by spraying onto the soil) against harmful insects and pathogenic bacteria. It has also been established that it gives results in the fight against spider mites. To do this, you need to sprinkle lime not only on the soil, but also on the lower part of the greenhouse walls, after moistening them.

Bordeaux mixture

The preparation consists of equal parts of copper sulfate and slaked lime. Kills fungal and bacterial pathogens and some insects well. The effect is achieved only with proper preparation of the drug.

Preparation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• take 100 g of copper sulfate and dilute it in 1 liter of hot water;
• The composition is stirred until all the crystals are dissolved, and then the volume is brought to 5 liters with cold water;
• at the same time, in another container, dilute 100 g of unslaked lime in 1 liter of water and wait until it is quenched;
• after this, the volume is also adjusted to 5 l;
• Cool both solutions to 24 degrees and combine them, stirring vigorously;
• when mixing, copper sulfate is poured into the lime solution, resulting in a blue Bordeaux mixture;

On the day of preparation, the resulting product is sprayed onto the greenhouse structures and the soil in it.

Formalin

This is a very potent remedy and is used in exceptional cases when the infection in the greenhouse is very large. The drug kills all living things, including beneficial microflora. Since it is very poisonous, work must be carried out in personal protective equipment and a gas mask.

Treatment is carried out by spraying at the rate of 20 ml of 40% solution per 1 cubic meter of greenhouse. Additionally, you can spray the soil with the preparation for greater effect. After treatment, close the greenhouse for 24 hours and then ventilate.

Freezing out the greenhouse

This is the most environmentally friendly way to combat harmful microflora. To do this, you need to leave the windows and doors of the greenhouse open for the winter.

The freezing method is used to get rid of whiteflies and a number of other pests that remain for the winter.

Sulfur treatment

According to many gardeners, treating a polycarbonate greenhouse with gray in the fall is one of the most effective ways to disinfect greenhouses. The gas released when sulfur burns - sulfuric anhydride - kills all living organisms in a confined space.

The gas will penetrate into all hard-to-reach cracks and even into the soil to a depth of 10 cm, destroying harmful insects and rodents hiding there.

For greater efficiency, sulfur is used together with potassium permanganate according to the following algorithm:

1. Fires are lit along the central path along the entire length of the greenhouse, every 6-8 meters.
2. Then metal baking sheets with a mixture of sulfur and potassium permanganate are laid out on burning coals. The amount of ingredients is calculated so that per 100 m2 of area there are 2 kg of sulfur and 40 g of potassium permanganate.
3. For safety reasons, given the very high toxicity of sulfuric anhydride, the placement of baking sheets with sulfur is carried out from the farthest end of the greenhouse towards the exit from it.
4. Under the influence of high temperature, sulfur ignites with abundant release of smoke and sulfuric anhydride. After making sure that the sulfur on all baking sheets has ignited, the doors of the cultivation room are tightly closed and exposed to at least 24 hours.
5. At the end of the exposure, the greenhouse will need to be thoroughly ventilated for several days. To do this, open all the doors and windows, creating drafts.

Sulfuric anhydride is very harmful to the human body. Therefore, disinfection work must be carried out in personal protective equipment, and a gas mask or respirator with a gas cartridge should be worn on the face.

Video: features of greenhouse sulfur treatment

Visual videos about the rules and mistakes of using sulfur to treat a greenhouse from the channel “Garden with your own hands.”

Video lesson on greenhouse processing from Yulia Minyaeva

Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall from the author of the channel “Whether in the garden or in the vegetable garden,” as well as preparing the greenhouse for winter.

Dig up the soil

However, removing the remaining tops and roots is only half the battle. Infections and harmful microorganisms can remain in the soil itself, which means that it should also be treated. But we will get to that point, but for now the soil needs to be prepared for cultivation. To make it easier for disinfectants to work, the soil should be thoroughly dug up. The ideal digging depth is one shovel bayonet.

The note. In addition to infections, the soil may contain insecticide residues and other harmful impurities, so it should be treated with special means every 2-3 years.

Stages of preparation for the next season

Before you start processing your greenhouse, first prepare for the process. It’s not difficult to treat a room, the main thing is to know and follow the sequence of steps:

• Cleaning procedure (cleaning and digging the soil during autumn work).
• Washing (metal frame and polycarbonate).
• Treatment of premises and soil with chemical, biological preparations or folk remedies.

Autumn cleaning in the greenhouse

First, you need to get rid of all plant debris: during the summer season, the greenhouse stores a lot of remnants of wilted plants and weeds. But they nevertheless still harbor all sorts of pathogens and diseases. Not only faded crops are harvested, but also the mulch layer: over the entire period of use it becomes rotted and unusable. Wet mulch can become a source of late blight infection. Therefore, remove it. During cleaning, it is necessary to temporarily remove supports, pins and coverings. The film covering of the greenhouse is a little simpler: it can be easily removed, washed separately, dried and stored.

Digging of the soil is carried out after the preliminary use of disinfectants. Soil disinfection is a vital procedure that helps destroy any larvae that have gone to winter. It also destroys pathogens. How to do the soil digging procedure:

• Stick in the shovel. This depth is optimal for digging the soil.
• Change the top layer if the time has come. The top soil layer is removed approximately every 3 years. And replace it with a new one (can be purchased at a farm store). The old layer can be thrown away or composted.

Processing of greenhouse structures

Most often, a polycarbonate greenhouse is used for growing: it is more durable. But it is also more demanding in terms of care. Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall includes several rules. Without following them, you risk damaging the coating and the frame itself. In order to properly wash a polycarbonate greenhouse, you don’t need too much:

• Broom or broom (for cleaning remnants of cobwebs in hard-to-reach places).
• Telescopic mop for windows (for cleaning the coating inside).
• Microfiber cloths, soft sponges (for washing).

It is the internal cleaning of the greenhouse that is more important. The outside of the greenhouse can be washed with plain water, because the main process takes place inside. What compositions or means are suitable for washing the frame: water with diluted laundry soap or water with dishwashing detergent. The detergent composition is applied to the coating for no longer than 10 minutes, then washed off with water. The same procedure is carried out with garden tools that are still suitable for use.

Important: polycarbonate greenhouses are washed only with soft sponges or microfiber cloths. The use of iron sponges and silencers will cause significant damage to the coating.

Solutions for cleaning greenhouse walls

You can wash the greenhouse with anything, as long as you follow the correct dosage. Composition options:

• Soap and water (a bar in a bucket).
• Dishwashing liquid and water.
• Potassium permanganate solution and water.
• Baking soda diluted in water.
• Glass cleaner.
• Chloride of lime (400 grams per 10 liters of water).

Disinfection of soil in greenhouse beds

Another equally important procedure in autumn gardening. The future growth of seedlings next year depends on the condition of the soil. The healthier it is, the better it is for you. Soil disinfection helps not only to get rid of insect larvae, but also to destroy mold. You can disinfect soil using chemicals, biological agents or traditional methods. The soil disinfection procedure is carried out along with the greenhouse disinfection procedure.

Attention: when cultivating the soil and greenhouse, be sure to wear personal protective equipment so that the toxic vapors of the drugs do not penetrate the body. Afterwards, rinse your mouth well, wash your face and hands. The maximum time for disinfection is no more than 10 minutes. Afterwards, be sure to ventilate the room.

Biological products

Summer residents like such preparations because they are non-toxic and do not accumulate in the soil. Good drugs:

• Vermitex (saves from spider mites, aphids).
• Trichodermin (100 ml per 10 liters of water).
• Alirin-B (one tablet per bucket).
• Baikal EM-1 (destroys pathogens).
• Treatment with phytosporin.

Herbal infusions

How to treat a greenhouse against pests? This is a question many gardeners ask themselves. And many people have known folk methods since time immemorial, for example, infusions of herbs and other crops. Most often, summer residents use decoctions and infusions from:

• Mustards.
• Luke.
• Garlic.
• Dandelion.
• Hot pepper.

Sowing green manure

Green manures are natural green fertilizers, sources of nitrogen and other useful microelements. They are sown after digging the soil and disinfecting it. When they fade, there is no need to remove them, just cut them off lightly.

Disinfection of a greenhouse in spring

Preventive work on cleaning and disinfecting a greenhouse in the spring is no different from the autumn and includes the same steps: cleaning and washing; disinfection of metal frames; coating it with anti-corrosion; disinfection of the coating with phytosporin; soil disinfection with slaked lime or copper sulfate solution (3-5%).

Solutions for disinfecting coatings

To protect the coating from mold, moss and other troubles, use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of chlorine of lime.

Frame disinfection solutions

If the greenhouse is unpainted, use 1% Bordeaux mixture (spraying) for disinfection. A solution of potassium permanganate, formaldehyde, copper sulfate and quicklime also do a good job of this.

Fumigation with sulfur bombs

This method is toxic, but effective. But remember that they cannot be used in greenhouses with a metal frame or an unpainted frame. Use the checker strictly according to the instructions: about 9 checkers are suitable for a small greenhouse 3*6. They have a wick. Place the checkers strictly in all corners of the greenhouse on surfaces that prevent combustion. Close all the windows and doors so that not even a particle of air gets in. Then light the wick. Approximate smoldering time is 5 hours. After the checker has decayed, leave it for three days. Afterwards, ventilate the room well and wash the inside with a soap solution.

Fumigation with tobacco sticks

In principle, the method is almost no different from using sulfur bombs, just remember that the best effect can be achieved in a humid environment. Therefore, spray the soil and interior surface with water before use. Next, proceed to fumigation:

• Seal the room.
• Place checker stands in the corners: bricks or metal utensils.
• Light the wick outside and wait a minute. Then bring the checker into the greenhouse and place it on a stand.
• Wait a few hours and then ventilate the room.

Three ways to disinfect a greenhouse

Various drugs and folk methods will help destroy fungal pathogens and late blight. According to their classification, they are divided into:

1. Fumigation.
2. Heat treatment.
3. Spraying.

Each method is useful in its own way, depending on what exactly you are trying to get rid of.

Spraying

The walls of greenhouses are treated with this composition. The smallest particles of the solution reach the most remote corners of the room and destroy the causative agents of late blight and other garden diseases. Most often, a solution of copper sulfate is used for these purposes. This product is almost universal, since it can be used to treat not only structures, but also soil. Vitriol is taken at the rate of 100 grams per 10 liters of water. To consolidate the result, it is better to repeat the procedure after a couple of weeks. Another good drug is Percel-6.

Fumigation of greenhouses

This procedure is carried out using special checkers: sulfur or tobacco (they will be discussed in more detail below). The smoke released during smoldering is extremely toxic both for diseases and for the person himself, so do not stay in the room for more than 10 minutes. Use PPE.

Sprinkling with powder mixtures

These compounds are used to disinfect soil. Slaked lime is recognized as one of the best. Only it needs to be applied in a thin layer, no more than 200 grams per 1 square meter. m. After the lime is evenly distributed over the soil, it is dug up.

Mechanical means of soil disinfection

One of the methods is traditional - this is thermal treatment with steam (more details below). The second method is to install special devices: electrical or on an electrode. However, as practice has shown, they are ineffective; moreover, these devices do not have a certificate from the Ministry of Agriculture.

Wash the greenhouse

In most cases, by autumn the greenhouse does not have a very pleasant appearance. Remains of dirt on the walls, leaves on the roof, overgrown cobwebs and moss not only spoil the beauty, but also serve as an excellent place for the development of infections and pests. This means that now it’s time to wash the greenhouse.

Unfortunately, I don’t know a secret technique that can help you clean a greenhouse quickly and effortlessly. Therefore, you will have to take an ordinary rag in one hand, and a bucket of detergent in the other, and get to work.

By the way, it’s worth saying a few words about what product to use for cleaning the greenhouse. I usually use a soap solution, which is 1 bar of laundry soap mixed in a bucket of water. If you suddenly don’t have laundry soap on hand, you can use dishwashing detergent or baking soda instead. They will cope with the task no worse.