How and with what to treat the soil and greenhouse structures in the fall

Why treat a greenhouse in the fall?

The greenhouse and the soil in it after harvesting can be infected with pathogenic microorganisms, fungi and various pests. All sorts of preventive measures will help get rid of them.

Experienced vegetable growers know that fungus, mold, and insect larvae that have overwintered in a greenhouse will be difficult to attack new seedlings in the spring and will be difficult to fight. For example, a whitefly can be destroyed when it is in the larval stage, since the adult is not afraid of even strong chemicals.

Therefore, it is better to disinfect the greenhouse and soil in the fall than to lose the future harvest due to pest attacks.

Repair and processing of the greenhouse frame

During operation, the frame suffers almost more than the covering material. The metal profile collapses and rusts, the wood rots and turns into dust under the influence of high temperature and humidity. In autumn it is worth paying special attention to this. The metal profile needs to be cleaned of rust and painted. Wooden elements that have become unusable must be replaced.

The places of contact between frame elements and polycarbonate sheets are the most contaminated, since many different harmful microflora are packed into such cracks. Therefore, such places need to be treated especially carefully, sparing no disinfectant solution.

Cleaning the greenhouse in the fall

The autumn period is just right for thoroughly cleaning the greenhouse after harvesting. First you need to put the beds in order, clearing the soil of roots, mulch and plant debris.

It is especially important to remove remnants of tomato tops, which can infect future plants with late blight. Plant residues should not be put into compost; it is better to burn them, destroying bacteria and pests.

What cleaning work is carried out:

• Removing outside all the parts that served as support, pegs, garters.
• Pulling out gardening tools, winding up watering hoses.
• Collection and subsequent burning of tops, garbage, and uncollected rotten fruits.
• Detection and collection of insect larvae that appear on the soil surface.
• Digging up the soil, pulling out small roots and parasite larvae from it.
• Cleaning paths. If the paths are lined with tiles or other material, then they must first be swept and then sprayed with a hose with strong pressure.

Processing auxiliary elements

Everything that is in the greenhouse during the season (containers, dishes, equipment, nets, trellises and others) is contaminated with pathogenic microflora no less than the soil or walls of the greenhouse. Therefore, after completing all work in the greenhouse, these auxiliary elements must be put in order, washed and sanitized.

Plastic containers and nets must be cleaned, washed, disinfected with a solution of any fungicide (for example, copper sulfate) and dried. All the ropes that were stretched in the greenhouse, as well as the wooden pegs to which the plants were tied, must be burned. This is, in fact, a consumable material and there is no point in disinfecting it. But there is no need to reuse them, since there are no less harmful bacteria on them than on soil.

Tilling the soil in a greenhouse in autumn

After cleaning the greenhouse, you need to start cultivating the soil.

Soil replacement

In autumn, the soil in greenhouses is teeming with all types of microorganisms. The best treatment method is partial replacement of the soil.

By using fertilizers and insecticides in the summer, we unwittingly allow microorganisms to accumulate in the soil. In this regard, once every 2-3 years, 10-15 cm of the top layer of soil should be replaced with a new one. If you can replace 10 cm of soil with fresh, fertile soil, then this is an ideal option.

The removed soil can be placed in compost, scattered on beds, or spread under fruit trees.

After removing the old soil, it is advisable to bring in new soil and treat it with Fitosporin. We can’t leave it untreated, because we don’t know what pests live in it.

What to do if it is impossible to replace the soil?

In this case, you will have to prepare it yourself. There are several ways to cultivate soil in a greenhouse:

1. Biological: the use of trichoderma green, which will destroy plant debris with pathogens located on them.
2. Treatment with peracetic acid. For 1 liter of 9% vinegar, take 200 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide. This mixture must be kept for 7-10 days in a dark place. One glass of this mixture per bucket of water is enough to treat the soil.
3. Eradicating solution with iron sulfate. Add 1 tbsp to 10 liters of water. citric acid, 400-500 g of iron sulfate, 1 liter jar of urea. Stir, filter and thoroughly spray the soil surface before digging.
4. At the same time, you can sow green manure. After the green manure has sprung up and grown properly, it must be sealed inside or mowed. It is recommended to dig up the soil in the greenhouse and turn the clod over.

In this video, popular video blogger and biologist Ivan Russkikh tells how to prepare peracetic acid for soil in a greenhouse and what advice it is better not to listen to.

Folk way

To disinfect the soil from pests, you can use the traditional method:

• Make a thick infusion of onion peels. It will rid the soil of blossom end rot fungi.
• Mix the soap solution with ash and pour it on the ground. This will rid it of powdery mildew, spotting, clubroot, and blackleg spores.
• A solution prepared from water and dry mustard will help get rid of many germs.
• Sprinkle dry bleach powder on the ground in an even thin layer, then dig it to a depth of 15-20 cm.
• Prepare hot water, spill the soil and cover it with film for a day. This event is held 3 times in the fall. It is effective against bacteria and pest eggs.
• You can also treat it with cold by opening the greenhouse for 5-6 days in frosty weather.

Polycarbonate greenhouse processing technology

Before processing begins, the need for all stages must be assessed. If no pests or signs of disease were noticed in the greenhouse over the summer, it will be enough to clean it and treat it with gentle biological products. They do not disturb the balance of microorganisms in the soil and do not have a harmful effect on its composition.

You need to use chemicals only if during the summer period plant diseases or a large number of pests were observed in your greenhouse or in your neighbors. At the same time, you should not exceed the drug consumption rates; it is better to carry out another treatment in the spring.

Cleaning

Treatment must begin with the removal of all plant residues, weeds, mulch - various pests can hide and overwinter in them. Tops affected by diseases and pests are burned. Healthy plants and weeds can be placed in a compost heap, layered with organic fertilizers or spilled with a urea solution. This technique promotes its rapid decomposition and composting.

Removing plant debris and mulch

After removing the plants from the greenhouse, remove all supports and garters: pathogens may remain on the twine. It is better to throw it outside the site or burn it. Reusable metal supports are processed together with the greenhouse structure.

Greenhouse flushing

A polycarbonate greenhouse must be washed in the fall. Wet cleaning allows you not only to remove dirt, but also to wash away viruses, spores and fungi that have settled on structures, as well as dust and chemical residues from spraying and fertilizing.

Polycarbonate is not scratch-resistant, so only soft sponges or microfiber cloths are used to clean the greenhouse. You can use a sponge mop on the handle, this will make the job easier.

Microfiber cloth

It is best to wash polycarbonate with warm water and laundry soap or liquid detergent. Soap foam is applied to the entire internal surface, paying special attention to the joints of the polycarbonate and the frame. Leave for 5-10 minutes and rinse off manually or with a hose with clean water.

Washing a polycarbonate greenhouse

Note! The water pressure should be moderate so as not to damage the polycarbonate.

After washing the inside of the greenhouse, it is recommended to immediately wash the outside surface to remove contaminants from it. A clean surface makes it easier to remove snow and ice during the winter.

Soil preparation

If the soil in the greenhouse is heavily contaminated with bacteria, viruses or fungus, it is recommended that it be removed and removed. The top layer of soil, 7-10 cm thick, is usually removed. The soil cannot be used for other crops; it is best to take it outside the garden and additionally spill it with a disinfectant. After all treatments, fresh fertile soil is poured in place of the removed soil. With moderate infection by fungi and bacteria, the soil is treated with chemicals. Since fungal spores and bacteria are found primarily on the surface of the soil, it should not be dug up before treating with antibacterial compounds and fungicides.

The situation is different with insect pests. During winter hibernation, they usually hide in the most secluded places or burrow into the ground. To facilitate access of chemicals to a sufficient depth, it is better to loosen the soil in the greenhouse before processing or dig it to a depth of 15-20 cm.

Digging and soil preparation

Simultaneously with digging, you can add fertilizers and copper-containing preparations - they inhibit the development of fungal diseases.

Copper-containing drugs

Prices for Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux mixture

Biological methods of controlling nematodes

One of the ways to expel a nematode from a greenhouse without resorting to potent drugs is to plant biologically active plants that are enemies of this parasite.

These include:

• low-growing small-flowered marigolds;
• calendula;
• leaf mustard;
• oilseed radish;
• watercress.

These plants also repel most soil pests, including mole crickets and wireworms. Marigolds can be sown even before harvesting the main crop for seedlings in a small area, and replanted in early autumn. The remaining plants sprout and grow quickly enough; during the autumn months they will have time to have a beneficial effect on the soil without suppressing its microflora.

Biological methods of controlling nematodes

Note! Watercress, in addition to improving soil health, can be used as a leafy green for salads. It has a spicy mustard taste and aroma.

Treatment with biologically active drugs

Healthy soil itself successfully fights the overgrowth of pests due to the constant work of beneficial soil bacteria. By increasing the amount of the latter, the protective properties of the soil can be enhanced. Preparations containing beneficial soil bacteria are called bioactive.

These include:

• Baikal-EM1;
• Shine;
• Phoenix;
• Fitop-Flora-S.

Baikal EM-1

The preparations are applied to the soil by watering. To do this, they are diluted in water with a temperature of approximately 25°C and watered the soil. The temperature in the greenhouse must be at least +15°C, since microorganisms cannot multiply in the cold. It is best to carry out this treatment immediately after harvesting vegetables.

Prices for "Baikal EM-1"

baikal em 1

Once in the soil, bacteria begin to actively multiply, this is facilitated by moderate humidity and nitrogen, so simultaneously with the application of biological products, complex fertilizers can be incorporated into the soil - superphosphate, nitroammophoska or organic matter. Soil bacteria, among other things, feed on pathogenic fungi and pathogenic bacteria, due to which they clean the soil in the greenhouse without introducing chemicals.

Treatment of soil in a greenhouse with biological products

Additionally, the greenhouse is treated with fungicides, for example, phytosporin. It is diluted according to the instructions and the walls, frame and soil surface are sprayed. This drug does not harm soil bacteria, so it can be used prophylactically, even without signs of fungal diseases. It provides good protection against late blight, cladosporiosis, powdery mildew and fungal rot.

Treatment with chemicals against harmful insects

This method of disinfection is used if pests were observed in the greenhouse during the season, and measures to destroy them gave an unsatisfactory result. It should be remembered that chemicals rarely act selectively; in addition to harmful insects, they also kill beneficial ones. To reduce harm, you should strictly follow the instructions for the drug.

Systemic insecticides

Most soil treatment preparations are applied to the soil by watering. Take precautions: wear gloves, a respirator, and in the case of using potent poisons, a gas mask.

The drug is diluted in the required proportion, poured into a waterer or sprayer and all areas of the soil are treated, and in the case of spraying, the walls of the greenhouse. There is no need to wash off the medications. After some time, they decompose and are removed from the soil with melt water.

Soil treatment with chemicals

Note! To wash the soil after chemicals, it is recommended to throw at least half a meter of snow into the greenhouse at the beginning of spring. In this case, undecomposed chemicals will leave the fertile soil layer with melt water.

Complex treatment and disinfection

When bacterial and viral diseases appear in the greenhouse, there is a strong infestation of fungal diseases and a large number of pests, it is necessary to sacrifice soil microflora and carry out complex treatment with potent substances.

These include:

• copper sulfate;
• pharmacoid;
• bleaching powder;
• Bordeaux mixture;
• formalin.

You can start treating with these compounds only after cleaning and washing the greenhouse. The treatment is carried out in late autumn, before preserving the greenhouse for the winter.

Copper sulfate is sold in the form of a blue-green or blue powder. It is diluted in the proportion of 1 tbsp. spoon into a bucket of water and spill the soil, and also spray it on the walls of the greenhouse and frame elements. The treatment affects bacteria, fungi and insects; in addition, when the soil is saturated with copper compounds, the risk of developing fungal diseases is reduced.

Copper sulfate

Farmayod is an aqueous tincture of iodine. Dilute until slightly brown in warm water and treat the soil and the greenhouse itself from pathogenic bacteria. This measure is rather preventive; it is better to use it in combination with other drugs. Potassium permanganate, diluted to a bright pink color, has a similar effect.

Farmayod

Bleach is sold in powder form. It is scattered on the soil surface to combat bacteria and insects. Bleach is good at getting rid of spider mites, against which other remedies may not be effective. In this case, lime is sprinkled not only on the soil, but also on the lower part of the walls of the greenhouse. To make the drug adhere better, the walls can be pre-moistened.

Bleaching powder

Bordeaux mixture is a mixture of copper sulfate and slaked lime. It acts on almost all harmful insects, as well as bacteria and pathogenic fungi.

Bordeaux mixture

To use Bordeaux mixture, it is important to prepare it correctly.

Ingredients for Bordeaux mixture

1. Dilute 100 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of hot water until the crystals disappear, add cold water to a volume of 5 liters.
2. In a separate container, dilute 100-120 g of quicklime in 1 liter of water, wait for it to dissolve, and then bring the volume to 5 liters.
3. Cool both solutions to room temperature.
4. Stir the lime milk vigorously with a wooden lath until a funnel forms and pour the copper sulfate solution into it in a thin stream.

Preparation of Bordeaux mixture

• The resulting mixture should be a sky blue hue. It is checked for the absence of copper sulfate using a new, non-rusty nail. Dip the nail into the resulting liquid for a few seconds, remove it and inspect it. There should be no red-brown coating on the nail. If there is one, add lime milk to the solution.

Bordeaux mixture is sprayed onto the greenhouse elements and the soil surface. It is better to do this immediately after preparation; even after short storage, the solution loses its properties.

Formalin is used when the greenhouse is very heavily contaminated - it kills all living things in it, including earthworms and beneficial bacteria. You can treat a greenhouse with formaldehyde only in a protective suit, gloves and a mask, as it is poisonous.

Formalin

Formalin is poured over the furrows and covered with a cloth to ensure uniform evaporation, after which the greenhouse is sealed for a day, closing the doors and sealing the cracks with masking tape. After a day, it is ventilated, after which the soil is completely dug up using the bayonet of a shovel.

How to treat a greenhouse against spider mites in the fall

To find out the answer to this question, we recommend that you read this article. In addition, you will probably be interested in learning about how to properly fight whiteflies in a greenhouse!

Using a sulfur bomb

Sulfur bomb is a radical method of controlling pests and bacteria. The smoke it emits contains sulfur dioxide, which enters any crack, as well as deep into the soil, while killing parasites, pests and microorganisms. Using a checker requires preliminary preparation of the greenhouse and compliance with processing technology.


Sulfur bulk checker PESHKA-S

Prices for sulfur smoke bomb

sulfur smoke bomb

Step 1. The greenhouse is cleaned and washed, then dried. Carefully lubricate all unprotected metal elements with grease - corrosion will begin from sulfur compounds, which will be impossible to stop. If the paint on the frame has peeled off, it must be restored and dried.


Greenhouse cleaning

Step 2. The walls of the greenhouse are moistened with water, paying attention to the joints with the frame. Reacting with water, sulfur dioxide turns into a weak acid with disinfectant properties. This increases the processing efficiency.


Moisturizing the walls

Step 3. Tape or seal all the cracks in the greenhouse with tape. If there are gaps on the door, prepare tape to quickly seal them after lighting the checker.

Sealing cracks

Step 4. Put on a protective suit, gloves and a respirator, or better yet, a gas mask. Sulfur dioxide is a potent toxic substance.


Protective means

Step 5. Prepare a metal sheet and paper for ignition, as well as the number of checkers required for the greenhouse area. The sheet is placed in the center of the greenhouse, the paper and checkers are set on fire. They quickly leave the greenhouse and close the door, sealing the cracks if necessary.


Sulfur checker

Step 6. Leave the greenhouse with the released gas closed for three days. Then open the windows and thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse, only after that can any work be carried out in it.


Ventilation

Note! Plaque may appear on the walls of the greenhouse and frame, which is better to carefully wash off with a sponge, being careful not to let it get on the soil. Upon contact with water, it turns into acid and acidifies the soil.

Video - Fumigation of a greenhouse with a sulfur bomb

Freezing out the greenhouse

A clean method that will not require any costs from you is freezing the soil in a greenhouse. To do this, you just need to fix the windows or doors in the slightly open position. By freezing, you can completely get rid of whiteflies, as well as other types of insects that overwinter in the soil.

In addition, an open window helps to equalize the temperature inside the greenhouse, as a result, condensation and ice will not form on its walls, and it will be much easier to remove snow from the polycarbonate. In most cases, snow simply slides off a smooth surface under its own weight.

Snow in a greenhouse for the winter

At the end of winter, do not forget to throw snow into the greenhouse - melt water will not only moisten the soil and make it easier for you to water when planting seedlings, but will also allow soil microorganisms to wake up earlier and begin working on the fertility of your greenhouse.

Additional treatment of soil in a greenhouse against pests

Copper sulfate (100 g per bucket of water) is considered a universal disinfectant. This is also an excellent fertilizer, but it can only be applied once every 5 years, otherwise the acidity of the soil will increase. The soil can simply be sprayed with copper sulfate.

If you notice that the plants have been affected by powdery mildew, then fungicides will help get rid of this fungus:

• Topaz,
• Fitosporin,
• Quadris,
• Tiovit Jet,
• Gamair.

It is difficult to get rid of fusarium, but you can try to remove the fungus using the following means:

• Trichophyte,
• Gamair,
• Previkur Energy,
• Oksikhom.

If a spider mite has been noticed, then the soil must be treated with Bordeaux mixture, and then the entire room must be fumigated with smoke from a sulfur bomb.

Help to get rid of cladosporiosis or brown spot

• Pseudobacterin-2,
• Fitosporin,
• Polisher,
• Home.

Root rot mercilessly destroys plantings in a greenhouse. To remove it, you need to treat the soil with biological products.

• Baktofit,
• Gamair,
• Pseudobacterin-2,
• Planriz,
• Trichodermin.

There is no need to fear that the chemicals will damage the soil and destroy any future plant. If the treatment is carried out in the fall, then by spring everything will disappear and will not affect the harvest in any way.

Stage 5. Strengthening the frame

Even the best polycarbonate greenhouses can collapse under the weight of snow. In winter, the load on structures can suddenly exceed the planned value. To avoid these troubles, you should install additional supports for the frame.

Sometimes greenhouse manufacturers offer to purchase additional arcs, but you can do it much simpler - make your own wooden supports in the shape of the letter “T”. Such structures support the upper part of the greenhouses. A fortified structure can be left for the winter without fear that its roof will collapse.

Preparing the greenhouse for winter by strengthening the frame with supports

About 4 supports are used per room (if the length of the greenhouse does not exceed 6 meters). However, if the greenhouse is located in an area where too much snow accumulates, their number should be doubled.

Strengthening the greenhouse frame before winter

To prevent the supports from getting stuck in the ground, they need to be placed on a hard surface.

Another option for reinforcing supports for a polycarbonate greenhouse

To reduce the likelihood of snow accumulating on the roof and walls of the greenhouse, in late autumn it is worth opening the doors and windows of the room. This can achieve two goals at once. Firstly, the frost will destroy the remaining pests from disinfection. Secondly, the same temperature inside and outside the room makes it possible to avoid the formation of ice. In this case, layers of snow will not be able to linger on the surfaces, sliding off them.

Important! Even the most expensive and high-quality greenhouses with reinforced structures may not withstand heavy snowfalls. For this reason, surfaces should be regularly cleared of snow.

Cleaning the greenhouse roof from snow

Disinfection of greenhouse walls and structures in the fall

Now you can begin preparing the walls of the greenhouse. It is recommended to treat the walls in the greenhouse after the first soil preparation.

Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall is one of the most important activities. Cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes are most often grown in a greenhouse, which can suffer from various diseases in greenhouse conditions. There are a lot of means to get rid of pathogenic microflora.

Many summer residents disinfect the entire greenhouse with a solution of potassium permanganate. Potassium permanganate can kill many parasites.

How else can you disinfect a greenhouse in the fall? Soda, formaldehyde (250 g per bucket of water), and 5% copper sulfate will cope with this task.

Watch this video in which Ivan Russkikh tells how to treat a greenhouse in the fall after finishing the tomato, pepper and cucumber crops. There is one inexpensive remedy available to everyone, which has proven to be the most effective for disinfecting a greenhouse from diseases.

Ivan Russkikh is a popular video blogger, expert of the Youtube channel “Procvetok” and the channel “Ivanova Science”. Researcher, teacher, head of the Research Laboratory of the Russian Center for Economics and Culture, member of international scientific communities.

The best solution for sanitizing walls is a white solution (hypochlorite). Prepare a solution: pour 1 liter of chlorine bleach White (the composition should contain sodium hypochlorite 25-30%) into 10 liters of water.

Within an hour after preparing the solution, spray the greenhouse with a sprayer. After a week, you can rinse the greenhouse with a sprayer with clean water.

You can also use chlorine-free peroxide bleaches, for example, Bos, Persol, Vanish, which contain perborates. We dilute the bleach as indicated in the instructions for bleaching laundry. The water should be hot, at least 60-70 degrees. We treat all surfaces of the greenhouse with a sprayer.

When using chemicals in a greenhouse, be sure to protect yourself from chemical fumes and splashes. Prepare protective items: respirators, aprons, goggles, rubber gloves. After treatment, immediately leave the greenhouse and wash yourself. And in the greenhouse itself, open the windows and doors to ventilate it.

When spring comes, your greenhouse will be clean, free of pests, mildew and mold. In addition, a clean, washed and treated structure will last longer.

Types of greenhouse treatment and disinfection

Autumn treatment of the greenhouse is carried out after harvesting the cultivated crops before the onset of frost.

Processing includes:

• cleaning up plant residues and weeds;
• removal of garden tools, supports and garters;
• washing the frame and polycarbonate;
• soil preparation, fertilization;
• sowing biologically active plants;
• treatment with fungicides and systemic drugs;
• disinfection with smoke bombs;
• freezing.

The treatment of a single greenhouse does not necessarily have to include all of the listed stages - the list of works depends on the condition of the soil and the presence of pests and pathogens in the greenhouse. To determine what treatment your greenhouse needs, you can use the diagram.

Scheme for disinfecting a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall

Washing the greenhouse and equipment in the fall

At the end of the summer season, all equipment, like the greenhouse itself, must be put in order and washed thoroughly. What to wash with? Take mops, brooms, rags.

Rinse the outside of the structure with water by pointing a hose at it.

If you were unable to disinfect with white, then the inside of the greenhouse wall can be washed with water and suds of laundry soap (1 piece per 10 liters of water) or dishwashing detergent. Apply the solution to dirty areas, and after 10 minutes, rinse with water. Rinse gardening tools in the same way.

What to do in the greenhouse in the fall with the frame structure? You need to pay close attention to these parts. Mold may appear at the joints, which will become a good breeding ground for fungi and bacteria.

These areas can also be washed with a concentrated solution of laundry soap. Laundry soap will well disinfect the joints of parts and everything that you wash.

You should not use a detergent with strong active ingredients, so as not to reduce the transparency of the greenhouse covering material.

Disinfection and washing of polycarbonate greenhouses in the fall with non-removable parts is carried out with a soap solution using brushes with long handles. After washing with soapy water, rinse off the soap with a hose.

If the polycarbonate has faded and even turned green in places, then you need to take 3 tablespoons of hot water per bucket. washing powder, ammonia, vinegar, a little bleach and mop the greenhouse. The greenhouse will become transparent.

The wooden frame should be treated with antiseptics, and for the metal frame it is necessary to prepare an anti-corrosion agent.

To disinfect all parts of the greenhouse, especially joints, you can use a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per bucket of water) or bleach (400 g per 10 liters of water).

A glass greenhouse can be washed with window cleaning liquid. It contains alcohol, which is also a disinfectant. Therefore, consider that glass disinfection has already been carried out. And the frames can be washed with a solution of laundry soap.

When should you wash a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall? The best time is September, early October. These activities must be completed before stable frosts.

Disinfection

Disinfection of greenhouses involves the implementation of a whole range of actions. It involves the fight against pathogenic and pathogenic microorganisms inside the greenhouse. This must be done so that with the arrival of spring the plants develop without problems and diseases, which can negatively affect the amount of harvest.

Disinfection can be carried out in several ways. Let's consider each of them separately.

Fumigation

I have already told you that it is important to wash the greenhouse. However, fumigation is also a mandatory step when preparing a greenhouse for wintering. For this I use sulfur bombs. They can be purchased at any store that sells everything for the garden.

The greenhouse must be tightly closed before the procedure. Next, I followed the instructions that came with the sulfur bombs. I think there will be no problems with this.

Spraying

Spraying is perhaps one of the most common methods of disinfecting greenhouses. Most gardeners use Bordeaux mixture for these purposes or products that are used specifically to kill fungi and harmful insects. I wash with the first option. When the spray solution was prepared according to the instructions, I poured it into a regular spray bottle and sprayed all surfaces in the greenhouse.

Treatment with chemicals

You can also use some chemicals to treat your greenhouse in the fall. The salesperson in the store told me that it is best to take for these purposes:

• copper sulfate;
• bleach;
• potassium permanganate solution.

I used the last option. A solution of potassium permanganate is applied to the soil.

Preparing the greenhouse for winter

We have given different methods for treating the soil and walls of the greenhouse. All this will help create good conditions for the future harvest.

A Complete Guide to Winterizing Your Greenhouse

To put all the information in one place, watch this short video.

Preparing a greenhouse for tomatoes in the fall

In order to get a good harvest of tomatoes next year, in addition to disinfecting the soil, you should add fertilizers and lime to reduce the acidity level, and sow green manure.

When digging, it is useful to add ash, humus, manure, and compost. Tomatoes need potassium and nitrogen most of all.

In autumn, add to the soil:

• monophosphate – 40 g per 1 sq. m,
• double superphosphate – 20–30 g per 1 sq. m.

It will be useful to enrich the soil with preparations containing potassium, for example potassium magnesium.

Why is processing needed?

Garden crops need moisture and heat created in the greenhouse. Unfortunately, the same characteristics are also important for various microorganisms that infect greenhouse plants with diseases, and the structure itself with mold and mildew. All this accumulates during the summer, reaching its maximum in the fall.

Autumn cleaning of the greenhouse is very important

It is very important to begin preparing the greenhouse for the season in the fall, when all the plants in the greenhouse have completed their fruiting cycle.

Terms and rules for processing polycarbonate greenhouses

What to do in the fall:

• fertilize and disinfect the soil;
• remove fungus and clean moldy areas in the room;
• remove, clean and repair the structure.

Infographics. What to do in the greenhouse in the fall

Each stage of the event should be considered separately and in detail.

How to care for a greenhouse in autumn

In the summer, when the crops ripen, the greenhouse does not require special care.
Occasionally you can water the walls with a hose, washing off the dust. It is also recommended to ventilate it. The main maintenance work on the structure occurs in the fall. In the fall, summer residents harvest from their gardens, including greenhouses. For the winter, the greenhouse must be removed and completely closed until the next planting season.

Proper care of a greenhouse in the fall includes:

Cleaning up plants after harvest. All tops, leaves, and weeds should be removed from the ground. Remove all fertilizers and soil cultivation tools. Soil treatment. The soil in the greenhouse is treated with special bactericidal preparations or watered with boiling water. It is recommended to remove a layer of 5-7 cm of old soil, replacing it with new one. Fertilizing the soil. The quality of the soil under a greenhouse can be improved if you sow it with green manure in the winter - peas, rapeseed, mustard. You can add humus and various mineral fertilizers to the soil. Disinfection. The carbonate coating of the greenhouse should be washed with dishwashing detergent. This prevents the proliferation of harmful fungal microorganisms and extends the life of the structure.

It is very important to clean all joints and crevices; for this you can use a soft cloth and a spray bottle. As a disinfectant, you should choose only those that are approved for polycarbonate coatings. Conservation

After all cleaning work, you need to ventilate and dry the room, then check all latches and locks.

Checkers are used as disinfection, which release sulfur gas when burned. To get rid of the smell, the greenhouse must be left open for several days.

Among the means of disinfection, one can highlight a folk method, which consists of using a decoction of pine branches. Pour boiling water over ½ bucket of needles, let it steep for 30-40 minutes, after which it can be used as a disinfectant. This disinfection method can be used in spring and summer to treat the walls and roof of a greenhouse.

Treatment of the greenhouse with white. “Whiteness” in the spring healing and eradicating treatment of the garden.

Hello dear friends. I welcome you to the “Dacha Stories” channel. Today I’ll tell you about another composition for eradicating garden treatments, which, unfortunately, has been undeservedly forgotten by summer residents.

The price of this solution is small, and any summer resident can afford it, and the processing efficiency is very high. At one time, collective farm gardens were mechanized with this solution.

I advise you to read the first article about spring eradication treatment of the garden if you have not already done so.

So, let's begin.

Let me say right away that this eradication treatment can be used on all garden trees and fruit bushes - without exception and without fear, and you can also treat grapes, strawberries, plus coniferous plants.

As I already wrote in the first article, the time for processing comes when the buds on the plants have cracked but have not yet opened. This so-called “green cone” phase. There will be nothing terrible if you carry out this treatment early, when the buds are still closed.

The solution, the recipe that I will give you now, can be used to treat plants whose buds have already opened more than in the green cone phase.

The main active ingredient in this treatment is sodium hypochlorite (sodium hypochlorite) - NaOCl, which is included, for example, in such a popular bleach as “Belizna”.

https://vk.com/photo-159774511_456241601

“Belizna” contains approximately 20% stabilized sodium hypochlorite, 5% caustic soda and surfactants, the rest is water.

Despite such a “terrible” name, this seemingly completely inorganic substance has found its application in agriculture. In addition to processing, for example, greenhouses, hotbeds, water supply systems, they carry out disinfection treatment of manure storage facilities and manure removal systems of poultry farms, pig and livestock farms, livestock pens, wagons for their transportation, feeders, etc.

In addition, solutions containing sodium hypochlorite have been used for many years as a fungicidal and bactericidal treatment of grain.

It is also used in pest control. Several years ago, a huge treatment was carried out with a solution containing sodium hypochlorite on green spaces in Sochi. Where a serious threat was posed by one of the harmful families of butterflies - the moth, which destroys the genus of evergreen shrubs and trees of the boxwood family. Solutions containing sodium hypochlorite perfectly destroy spider mites, scale insects, and aphids.

Particularly promising is the use of electrolytic sodium hypochlorite.

One of the properties we need from sodium hypochlorite is the release of large quantities of active oxygen during decomposition, and only then free chlorine. Active oxygen also has an oxidizing and disinfecting effect.

Many people believe that “Whiteness” and bleach are practically the same thing. This is wrong. What we traditionally call bleach is bleach - Ca(ClO)2. In our case, these are sodium salts, bleach is calcium salts.

In its pure form, “Whiteness” cannot be used in polycarbonate greenhouses.

But enough theory. How to dilute “Whiteness” for eradication treatment?

Pour 1 liter of “Whiteness” into ten liters of water, stir thoroughly and add one hundred grams of potassium monophosphate, stir until completely dissolved.

Use immediately. It is better to process in calm weather, at a temperature of + 5 degrees.

Sometimes “Whiteness” is 10%, not 20%; accordingly, you need two liters of it, not one.

Chemical reactions occur in the tank mixture, resulting in the formation of active oxygen and an insignificant amount of table salt. Chlorine is not released in free form and does not combine with other substances.

Thank you for your interest in my article.

If you want to share your experience, warn other summer residents from mistakes, talk about successful experiments, then send your messages to [email protected] I will be happy to publish them on our channel.

Instructions on how to use a sulfur bomb in a greenhouse

The rules for using checkers are quite simple. It does not give off an open flame, so it does not pose a particular fire hazard. A sulfur bomb is used against spider mites and other pests in a greenhouse according to the following instructions:

1. Preparatory stage - it is necessary to remove all metal objects, preparations (cans), collected fruits and vegetables from the premises. If any metal products remain, they need to be coated with grease or other lubricant.
2. Seal the holes, seal small cracks on the outside with tape.
3. Thoroughly loosen the ground so that the smoke penetrates as deeply as possible into the soil and destroys insects in various forms (eggs, larvae).
4. Calculate the required number of sulfur bombs and arrange them evenly over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse. The surface must be fireproof, because during combustion the checker becomes very hot. It is optimal to place them on bricks.
5. Put on a respirator mask, safety glasses, carefully gather all your hair into a bun and throw it over your back.
6. Quickly light the wicks and immediately leave the greenhouse, tightly closing the door from the outside. It is better to ignite it in the open air so that the flame flares up better. The saber must be carried at arm's length, without touching clothing or the body.
7. Using a sulfur bomb in a polycarbonate greenhouse is a rather lengthy process. Combustion lasts 1-1.5 hours, but after this the greenhouse is kept closed for at least a day. During this time, you can only enter the greenhouse if absolutely necessary, and it is advisable to wear a mask and goggles (for swimming).
8. Then thoroughly ventilate for another two days and close the door. Seedlings can be planted after 1 week.

Important! If you burn a checker in a cellar or basement, you can put vegetables there no earlier than 5 days after the end of ventilation.

During processing, it is best to place the sulfur bomb on bricks

How many sulfur bombs are needed for a greenhouse?

The rate of treatment of a greenhouse with a sulfur bomb depends on the specific preparation. Basically, the concentration of the active substance (sulfur) is approximately the same - 750-800 g per 1 kg of mixture. Therefore, the following consumption rules have been established:

• when processing greenhouses, hotbeds and greenhouses 60 g/m3;
• when processing cellars and basements for storage 30-60 g/m3.

Accordingly, to process every 5 m3 of a greenhouse, you will need 1 sulfur block of a standard weight of 300 g. For example, if you take a standard greenhouse 3 m wide, 6 m long and 2 m high, the volume will be 3 * 12 * 2 = 72 m3. To process such a volume, you need to take 72/5 = 14 sulfur bombs.

Stage 1. Cleaning

From the greenhouse you need to remove plant tops, weeds, supports, garters - all this should be burned to prevent subsequent infection of the planted plants.

All plant remains must be removed from the greenhouse.

Material that cannot be burned must be treated with an antifungal drug - potassium permanganate or phytosporin. The equipment is soaked for 30 minutes in the solution, after which it is thoroughly washed, dried and stored in a dry place until spring.

Cleaning up debris within the greenhouse

In order to provide the greenhouse with the most optimal soil composition, you should know what components should be included in its composition.

Table. What components should be included in greenhouse soil?

Operating principle

The composition of the sulfur bomb contains dry substances, and the active substance is sulfur (in dry powder form) in an amount of 750-800 g per 1 kg of mixture. When burned, it combines with oxygen and forms sulfur dioxide SO2, which completely destroys various plant pests:

• insects;
• viruses;
• bacteria;
• fungi.

This substance also repels rats, mice and other rodents.

The combustion process is slow, without the formation of an open flame. After the protective surface (packaging lid) burns, the powder begins to smolder, releasing abundant, thick smoke of a dark yellow, brownish color. Thanks to the closed space, massive death of insects and other pests is observed already on the day of treatment.

The principle of operation of the checker is based on the destruction of pests by smoke generated by the combustion of sulfur. Important! The sulfur gas released during combustion actively absorbs moisture from the air, which makes it possible to cope with mold and rot.

Today you can purchase several types of sulfur bombs. They differ in the amount of active ingredient and packaging (different weights). Therefore, during the application process, you need to correctly calculate the amount based on the fact that 300 g is enough for every 5 m3 of the greenhouse.

The most famous are:

• FAS;
• Climate.

The FAS sulfur block for a polycarbonate greenhouse has a high sulfur concentration - 800 g of dry matter per 1 kg of mixture. Copes well with pathogenic bacteria, fungi, rot, mold and insect pests. It dehumidifies the air, making it suitable not only for treating greenhouses, but also for storing vegetables (basements, cellars, storage rooms).

The product is sold in briquettes of 300 g. They should be stored in a dry place at room temperature. Shelf life is 5 years if storage conditions are met.

FAS sulfur bomb is used for combustion in greenhouse structures, basements and cellars

In accordance with the instructions, the sulfur smoke bomb Climate for a greenhouse is used to treat any utility premises. The sulfur concentration is 750 g per 1 kg of mixture. The product is sold in briquettes of 300 g, 40 pieces are packed in one box.

Consumption depends on the type of room:

1. For empty greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses, 300 g per 20 m3 is sufficient.
2. For empty basements, cellars, storages – 300 g per 10 m3.

Important! After treatment, it is recommended to ventilate greenhouses for 8-10 days in a row, and basements for at least two days.

Checkers are packaged in 300 g pieces - this amount is enough for 10-20 m3 of space

Cleaning the greenhouse

After harvesting the garden, the area is cleaned: garbage is burned, beds are dug for spring, and dry stems from vegetables are removed. A small indoor vegetable garden was no exception. After harvesting, it is necessary to carry out certain measures to clean the greenhouse.

First, the existing auxiliary devices that were used to tie up the vegetables are removed: slats, ropes, ropes. It is necessary to pull out remnants of vegetation in the form of leaves, weeds, and stems. This will provide protection against infection during subsequent planting. A convenient way would be to collect organic matter and burn it. In some cases, gardeners place these residues in the used compost pit, and as a result receive excellent fertilizer. It is also necessary to disinfect the soil.

In a greenhouse, you need to dig up the soil, and during the process, get rid of existing roots along the way. If leaves get clogged into greenhouse crevices, the joints can be breeding grounds for diseases. Everything in the greenhouse must be carefully checked.

Soil preparation

Some of the work involved in preparing the soil for next season may have already been done, since it involves removing any remaining organic matter. Summer residents perform these actions during general cleaning of the greenhouse.

However, this procedure is not limited to just harvesting the remaining plant roots. Next you need to do the following:

• replace the depleted top layer of soil (about 5cm);
• treat the soil with bactericidal agents or scald with boiling water.

It is better to avoid fertilizing in the fall. It is useful to hold such events in the spring. With the onset of winter, in the event of snowfall, experienced summer residents recommend periodically scattering snow over the entire ground surface in the greenhouse. This will allow:

• provide reliable protection of the soil from severe frosts;
• additionally moisten the soil as a result of melting snow with the onset of a warm period.

Wintering a greenhouse for tomatoes

If only tomatoes are constantly grown in a polycarbonate greenhouse, work in the fall should be carried out according to a slightly different scheme.

In the first days of October, you need to remove the tomato tops from the ground and put them in a sunny place. After the stems dry, they are burned, the ash is collected and stored until it warms up - next year it will benefit the crop, protecting young plants from pests. The most important thing is that the stems are not covered with mold or rot.

Autumn work in the greenhouse after harvesting tomatoes

It is best to treat the soil in a polycarbonate greenhouse prepared for tomatoes with vitriol and then carefully dig it up. After thoroughly cleaning the greenhouse, holes are dug in the ground and filled with leaves and dry grass, which are sprinkled with soil. With the onset of warm April days, this composition will begin to melt, heating the soil and accelerating the growth of tomatoes. Of course, the temperature will be low, but it is ideal for plant roots. In addition, rainwater penetrates into such soil more easily, bringing fertilizers with it.

Greenhouse “Uralochka reinforced”

In this article you will find everything you need to know about the design, types and installation of the “Reinforced Uralochka” with your own hands! We also recommend reading our other article about the density of polycarbonate.

It is also necessary to restore order around the greenhouse - remove the remains of grass and cultivated plants, level the soil. Having finished cleaning around the structure, you can leave the greenhouse for the winter - now it is not afraid of frost, wind, or snow. In addition, thanks to the efforts made, next year the harvest will be excellent.

Laying new soil

The soil in the greenhouse should be loose and nutritious, with a good humus content. And increased planting density and regular operation greatly deplete the soil in the greenhouse. For this reason, it is necessary to restore soil fertility and replace it. Typically, the greenhouse is not filled with solid soil; peat, compost or leaf soil are added to it.

Let's figure out what these additives are:

• Peat soil is soil enriched with humus, collected from swamps. When harvesting, layers of peat must be sprinkled with manure and lime. On light soils, about 20 kg/1 m² are applied, and on heavy soils – 15 kg/1 m²;
• compost soil is the most readily available option. It consists of rotted food waste, which is stored in a separate pile. After a few years, this heap, thanks to the vital activity of microorganisms, turns into an excellent fertilizer;
• leaf soil is the addition of plant materials to the soil. But its productive qualities are slightly inferior to the two previous options. In the total amount of soil it should be at least 30%. When adding plant residues, it is necessary to ensure that they are not infected with diseases and that they are free of various parasites.

Many vegetable growers have their own recipes for earthen mixtures. Their composition depends on what crop will be grown.

We offer several examples of soil mixtures:

• For tomatoes, adding 60% peat and 20% each of compost and sand is suitable. Tomatoes are sensitive to cold, so it is advisable to make the bottom layer of sawdust or straw;
• cucumbers will grow well on a mixture of 5 parts peat and 2 parts leaf soil and humus. Just like for tomatoes, you can make the bottom ball out of straw or sawdust;
• for strawberries, a good option would be a mixture of 6 parts turf soil and 2 parts sawdust.

Why disinfect a greenhouse?

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A favorable climate and high humidity in the greenhouse promote the growth and development of not only vegetables and herbs, but also pathogenic flora. In such an environment, pathogens of infectious diseases, fungal and mold spores, pathogenic organisms and pathogenic bacteria thrive.

If they have not yet shown themselves, then next season they will definitely attack the planted plants. Therefore, disinfection will get rid of the problem in the bud. If you have already had to deal with late blight, macrosporiosis, septosporium, and various types of rot in a greenhouse, then disinfection should be carried out regularly, at least once a year.

Don’t forget about pests that winter well in such a cozy and warm room. These are spider mites, greenhouse whiteflies, tobacco thrips, peach and melon aphids. It is much easier to get rid of them in an empty greenhouse than in a planted one. Disinsection is carried out together with disinfection.