Compatibility of dill with other crops in the same bed. What can you plant greens next to?


Features of planting next to other crops

It is important that the dill is compatible with the other plant. What to pay attention to:

  1. Height. Plants should not block access to the sun.
  2. Type of roots. The roots should not intertwine.
  3. Released substances. Some plants do not tolerate the essential oil released by dill.
  4. Pests. It is desirable that the crops correspond to pests and do not damage each other.

Fragrant bushes do not combine with plants such as carrots, corn, fennel, parsley, watercress, and basil.

Compatibility table

When planning joint planting of crops on your site, it is important to take into account their mutual influence on each other.


You can plant vegetables next to each other that mutually promote growth rather than inhibit it

We summarize the information about which vegetables are allowed to be planted together and which are not recommended in the table:

CultureFavorable and acceptable neighborhoodUndesirable neighborhood
TomatoCarrots, cabbage, onions, garlic, radishes, radishes, parsley, salads, spinach, chardPotatoes, tall vegetables, peas, kohlrabi, cucumbers, dill
Sweet pepperOnions, garlic, carrots, bush beans, basil, celery, parsley, lettuce, spinach, radishes, white and cauliflower, oregano, marigoldsPeas, curly beans, fennel, dill, eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, hot peppers
EggplantOnions, beans, root vegetables (except potatoes), greensPeas, fennel
cucumbersOnions, garlic, peas, beans, beans, spinach, eggplant, corn, dill, calendulaPotatoes, tomatoes, most aromatic herbs
PotatoGood friends with almost all crops, especially legumes (beans, beans)Cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, cabbage, pumpkin
White cabbageOnions, cucumbers, garlic, radishes, lettuce, celery, dill, calendulaTomatoes, beans, carrots, parsley
CarrotOnion, tomato, peas, beans, celery, lettuce, beets, cucumber, parsley, sageAnise, dill, cabbage, chard
BeetCucumbers, onions, garlic, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, lettuce, bush beansMustard, climbing beans, corn, parsley
Bulb onionsCucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, beets, lettuce, dill, savory, spinachPeas, beans, beans, radishes, radishes, cabbage


Representatives of the Legume family get along well with almost all crops; they are not particularly favored except for onions

Legumes (peas, beans, beans, cowpeas, chickpeas, lentils, soybeans, peanuts) have a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which settle on their roots, leading to overgrowth, resulting in the formation of characteristic nodules. Nitrogen fixers absorb atmospheric nitrogen and convert it into a form available for absorption by plants.

Proximity to legumes is especially beneficial for potatoes. In addition to enriching the soil with nitrogen, which leads to increased yield, the specific smell of beans repels wireworms.


Beans are planted along the perimeter of the potato plantation or along the edges of individual furrows so as not to interfere with regular hilling

Cabbage

Any type of cabbage is suitable here, for example, white cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower and others. There will be no harm to such crops from each other, especially since cabbage does not need a lot of light. Also dangerous for cabbage are harmful butterflies - white butterflies and moths. The dill aroma can repel pests. Another advantage of this proximity is the stimulation of fetal growth. The head of cabbage will grow well in the shade of a dill bush. The main thing is to maintain a distance of at least 30 cm between them.

8 tips for preparing your garden for winter

Why do you need to follow the rules of cultural proximity?

If you plant nearby plants from the same family that suffer from the same pests and ailments, the risk of their infection and, accordingly, crop loss will increase. It is much better to place flowers or herbs that repel these pests near a plant that is highly susceptible to attack by any insects.

You cannot plant tall crops near a light-loving plant that will block the sun from it. But it is better to hide shade-loving crops under greenery that provides diffuse shade.

You should also take into account what substances various plants take from the soil and at what level their root systems are located. This will prevent competition for minerals, which will cause at least one of their competitors to grow poorly or even die.

Adviсe

To get a good harvest, you should take the advice of experienced gardeners when growing garlic.

  • Often do not plant in one place. Garlic prefers to have its planting location changed frequently. There is even an opinion that it is necessary to plant it in the place where it grew no earlier than five years later. However, not all gardeners can afford this, so it is better to change the planting bed at least every two, or preferably three, years. And also garlic does not take root well in the place where onions recently grew. It is not recommended to plant it after plants of the nightshade family in order to avoid infection with fusarium. A good option would be to plant after melons and legumes; especially winter garlic grows well. He also likes to “live next door” to strawberries.
  • Do not use manure as bait. Before planting garlic, the soil does not need to be fertilized with manure. Fertile and at the same time neutral land is more suitable for him. Manure adds a little acidity to the soil and greatly enriches it with nitrogen. The best feeding will be peat; it must be dug up with soil onto a spade bayonet. And add about thirty grams of superphosphate and twenty grams of fertilizer containing potassium, and this is all per square meter.
  • Choose soil. In principle, winter garlic loves light soils with a predominance of sand, which have a fairly high passage of air and moisture, but does not like to be in the shade and dampness. Therefore, you need to choose a site that is located at the highest level of the ground, where the soil is less heavy and less damp. But it is also necessary to take into account the density of the soil - if it is too dense, it can push out the garlic in winter and it will freeze. However, very soft soil can cause harm; in this case, the soil can pull the garlic deeper, and then the harvest will turn out to be with small heads.
  • Soak before planting. In order to avoid garlic disease, it is necessary to dry the cloves well in advance, and then the garlic can be placed in a weak solution of manganese for no more than three hours. For best effectiveness, it is recommended to add a strong mixture of table salt, about a little more than a dessert spoon per liter of water, but for a very short time - no more than three minutes. Or place it in a solution of copper sulfate for the same time in the proportion of one teaspoon per two liters of water.

We suggest you read: Obtaining polycarbonate

  • Be careful. We must not forget about the “mother” part; the cloves must be freed from it, otherwise it will retard growth. Garlic should be planted at a distance of about fifteen centimeters. When planting in rows, the distance between them should be more than twenty centimeters. Do not press the cloves with your hands, as this can harm root growth. It is better to make a hole with a depth commensurate with the length of your middle finger and put a clove of garlic into it. But the depth should not exceed four centimeters.
  • Don't forget about mulch. When the soil is very dry before planting, you need to water it. But only during the planting period. After planting, do not forget to mulch the planting areas with peat, humus or sawdust no more than five centimeters. To contain the snow, it is advisable to place brushwood on the bed, which will become a kind of blanket. In spring you need to remove the mulch.

You can learn the basic principles of crop rotation from the following video.

cucumbers

The most fruitful neighborhood you can imagine for garden crops. The fragrant dill attracts ladybugs, and they actively destroy aphids that harm cucumbers. And its greenery protects the ovaries of the vegetable from drying out in the sun. The beneficial effect on both the quality of the taste of cucumbers and the duration of their fruiting period will become noticeable immediately as soon as the dill grows 10-20 centimeters from them. And, by the way, they even have the same watering regime, which is very convenient for care.

The best predecessors of dill in the garden

Dill is famous for its strong, pleasant aroma. It can be eaten fresh, added to salads, soups and pickles. This grass is extremely popular in garden beds. Dill is almost always planted together with other vegetables and herbs. This is done to save space.

It is necessary to know well which neighbors dill can “get along with” and which it cannot. Because due to incompatibility, both plants may suffer.

Seeds can be sown immediately in open ground. But it is permissible to first germinate them in wet gauze and then plant them in the garden. This grass loves loose soil and tolerates cool weather well, so it can be sown in early spring and even late summer. It is best to plant it every 10–15 days, then there will always be fresh herbs in the garden and kitchen.

Attention! For spring planting, you need to prepare the bed in the fall: the soil is thoroughly loosened to a depth of 20 cm, and then fed with humus and mineral fertilizers.

This plant loves soil with neutral acidity. Very often, dill grows on its own, like a weed. But unlike weeds, it brings benefits, not harm, so it should not be removed.

Germinating seeds in damp gauze will speed up their growth and maturation. It is necessary to plant them in the prepared bed in time. The plant can be additionally fertilized with mullein or compost. Nitrogenous fertilizers are very useful. The correct watering regime is necessary: ​​both a lack of moisture and its excess are dangerous.

It is advisable to choose in advance where to plant dill, because compatibility in the garden is very important. It is also necessary to know what plants grew in the garden bed before dill, for example, last year.

It is best if the following vegetables and herbs become the predecessors of dill:

  • legumes;
  • potato;
  • cabbage;
  • cucumbers;
  • tomatoes;
  • onion.

Fragrant, spicy dill has a beneficial effect on all neighbors, except those with whom it is incompatible.

When choosing a predecessor, you need to be guided by important rules:

  • The predecessor must belong to a different family. In this case, you can choose plants that do not belong to the Apiaceae family.
  • The predecessor and the new plant (in this case, dill) should not have common diseases and pests.

These two rules will help you choose a good combination, on which the health of garden plants and the harvest at the end of summer depend.


The leaves and seeds contain many aromatic oils that repel pests with their scent.

For beginning gardeners who know very little about vegetable crops, there is another way. Predecessors and neighbors can be selected depending on what part of the plant will be used - roots, leaves or fruits. All cultures are conventionally divided into three groups:

  • Plants grown for their fruits are tomato, cucumber, legumes, melon, watermelon, zucchini, eggplant, corn, pumpkin, and pepper.
  • For leaves - dill, cumin, sorrel, spinach, fennel, mint, cabbage, lettuce, chard, as well as leafy varieties of celery and parsley.
  • Root vegetables - potatoes, parsnips, carrots, radishes, beets, onions, garlic, as well as root varieties of parsley and celery.

It is necessary to alternate crops from different groups, depending on how deep the root lies underground. For example, if last year beets or carrots grew in the garden bed (their roots lie very deep), then this year you need to plant greens, cucumbers or onions in this place (their roots are located close to the surface of the earth). This way, plants will receive nutrients from different levels of the ground. Thanks to this, soil fertility will be maintained for a long time, and at the same time all plants will be well nourished.

Zucchini

As in the case of cucumbers, grown dill will not allow the sun's rays to destroy the ovaries, and then the fruits of young zucchini. Their productivity will increase significantly not only because of this: the green neighbor will also attract pollinating insects to the zucchini inflorescences with its fragrance. It is enough to sow it at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from the vegetable crop.

  • Author: Inna Kiseleva
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