How to plant and grow tomatoes on the balcony: the best varieties and step-by-step instructions

So, have you finally decided to try growing tomatoes in your apartment, starting with choosing a suitable variety or hybrid? Congratulations, you are absolutely on the right track!

Well, below you will get a list of the most popular = best hybrids and varieties of tomatoes that are specifically designed (as it is written on them) for growing at home on a windowsill, balcony or loggia.

Advice! The site also has detailed material on how to properly grow tomatoes in
an apartment on a window or balcony
.

Are tomatoes grown on the balcony?

Tomatoes are not capricious to the climate and take root on window sills, balconies or loggias. They can be grown in flower pots or boxes. At home, you can grow different crops - cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, cabbage, but the tomato is considered one of the unpretentious crops.

There are many hybrid varieties bred specifically for greenhouse or apartment conditions. That is, they will grow faster and better in a window than in a garden bed in open ground.

Preparing seeds and land for sowing

Growing tomatoes on the balcony begins with the selection and preparation of containers, soil mixture, and seeds. Further care and the volume of the harvest depend on how correctly everything is done.

Substrate

It is recommended to buy soil for seedlings in a specialized store. The manufacturer has already added a complex of starter fertilizers that tomatoes need at the initial stage of cultivation. They will last until the dive.

After moving the tomatoes into individual pots, a different substrate is needed. It is difficult to buy one intended for growing vegetables at home, but you can prepare it by choosing one of the proposed compositions:

• garden soil, compost or humus, sand – 2:2:1;
• soil from under deciduous fruit trees, humus, peat – 2:2:1;
• turf soil, compost or humus – 1:1.

All components must be disinfected. The sand must be properly washed and calcined. The remaining components are frozen or steamed.

Capacities

Before picking, balcony tomatoes need the same containers as those intended for the plot - greenhouses or vegetable gardens. Low wooden boxes, special cassettes or individual cups are suitable.

After picking, you should plant the tomatoes in small pots with bottom holes to drain excess moisture, and place them on pallets so as not to flood the balcony. During the growing process, they will have to be changed several times, gradually increasing the volume.

When the root has entwined the substrate, the tomatoes are moved into a large container, trying not to disturb the earthen lump. You cannot plant it in a permanent container right away. The above-ground part will stop growing until the root has mastered all the allocated soil.

The final size of the pot in which the tomatoes will bear fruit should hold at least 5, and preferably 10, liters of soil. An exception is varieties of tomatoes for windowsills and balconies, which need 2-4 liters.

You can use flower pots, plastic buckets, tubs, and containers made from non-aggressive building mixtures. It is important to make a hole in the bottom - with a drill or a hot nail.

When preparing containers for growing tomatoes on the balcony, we must not forget about drainage. Expanded clay, broken red brick, washed crushed stone or gravel are used for this purpose.

Polystyrene foam will also work, but then you need to place a weighting agent on the bottom. Otherwise, the fruiting plant will turn the pot over.

Seeds

The main condition is that you can grow tomatoes on the balcony only from high-quality fresh seeds. They are prepared in the traditional way. Required steps:

• disinfection;
• warming up;
• soaking until swelling.

The coated seeds are sown dry for seedlings. If desired (optional), gardeners can carry out additional preparation steps:

• culling;
• calibration;
• stimulation;
• bubbling;
• You can choose from germination or hardening of seeds.

Variety selection criteria

The harvest and success of the garden on the windowsill depends largely on the selected varieties of vegetables. You need to focus on several aspects at the same time:

1. Bush size. For home growing, low-growing and medium-sized varieties of tomatoes are suitable, the height of which is no more than 50 cm. Too large breeds, for example, Bobcat, will be uncomfortable and cramped, which will affect the harvest.
2. Maturing period. There is no need to choose tomatoes that have a ripening period of 70–100 days. Early ripening tomatoes are chosen for the balcony.
3. Fruiting. This factor depends directly on the purpose of the balcony garden. For the sake of harvest, you need to choose tomatoes that bear fruit for a long time. If you start a vegetable garden as a hobby, for the sake of aesthetic pleasure, less fruitful species are suitable.

Balconies Yelou

One of the most popular varieties of tomatoes for growing on the balcony. The compact bush is valuable because it is ideal for the home, because its maximum height will not exceed 45 cm. Sunny yellow tomatoes will ripen already on the 100-110th day after germination. The fruits are round, sweet, but with a slight sourness, which gives them a piquant flavor. They are consumed fresh and canned.

The best tomatoes for the balcony: description and characteristics

In recent years, many varieties have been developed for the home garden. It is also practiced to plant garden and greenhouse tomatoes at home.

Angelica

The height of the bush is 50–70 cm, suitable for growing in open ground and indoor conditions. They require a lot of space, love light and warmth. The fruits grow in clusters, up to 8 pieces per cluster. Each tomato weighs 50–60 grams. The optimal growing temperature is +25 °C. You can water every other day in the evenings with warm, settled water.

Angelica does not require special conditions for growth and development. There is no need to tie the stems or tear off the leaves. The variety does not have immunity, so when sowing seeds and planting seedlings, it is necessary to disinfect both the soil and rhizomes. Fruit ripening occurs approximately 80 days after planting in a permanent place.

Ballerina

The Ballerina variety has medium-sized, oblong-shaped fruits. The weight of 1 tomato is approximately 150 grams. The height of the bush reaches 60 cm when planted outdoors and 40–50 cm when grown indoors.

The variety is resistant to rot and fungal diseases, so it can be planted on the balcony with other crops that need more humid air or cooler temperatures. Ballerina is an early variety, but it can be grown on the balcony all year round. Does not require gartering or bush formation.

Balcony Star

Balcon Star Tomato is a hybrid variety bred specifically for growing in pots on windowsills. Its main advantages:

• grows in any weather and time of year;
• not capricious in relation to temperature and humidity;
• The main care is only watering.

Star grows in clusters, the fruits are small, cherry-like, and have a sweetish taste and aroma. This tomato loves light, so it requires additional lighting in winter.

Balcony duet

One of the most suitable varieties for growing at home. Even a small child can handle caring for such a tomato. The bush is compact, small in size, up to 35 cm tall. The variety is considered ultra-ripe; it ripens quickly. The fruits are small, grow in clusters, and are divided into 2 types - yellow and red. The tomatoes are juicy and tasty, suitable for salads and wraps.

This is a potted variety; it takes root in any container and in open ground. Requires rare but abundant watering.

Balcony sugar

This is an early ripening variety that can be grown in a greenhouse, open ground and on the balcony. The height of the bush is up to 40 cm, the fruits are juicy, sweet, red, thin-barked.

Balcony sugar tomato is resistant to temperature changes, fungal and bacterial diseases. It does not require special care; it is enough to water it as needed and feed it with organic fertilizers before fruiting. Productivity – up to 2 kg per bush.

Butterfly

This is a tall plant that can reach up to 1.5 m in height. It is not suitable for window sills, but it feels comfortable in winter gardens or large, bright loggias. The fruits are small, oval-shaped, up to 50 g. On 1 branch there can be up to 50 pieces during the fruiting period.

See also Rules for watering tomatoes in open ground: frequency and rate

At home, it is recommended to grow not 1, but 2 stems, so that the bush is lower. This will not affect the yield, but the total number of fruits will be divided into 2 branches.

Balcony bonsai

A small potted plant, it belongs to the ornamental tomatoes and is grown on a balcony or windowsill. Bonsai has a high yield and, in addition to decoration, it produces up to 2 kg of fruit per season. Height up to 40 cm, fruits are small but very tasty. They will complement any dish or decorate the table.

Balcony bonsai loves freedom, so it is recommended to plant each bush in a separate container.

yellow pearl

The determinate, fast-ripening species has small yellow fruits, on average 20 g each. The advantage of the variety is its unpretentiousness. High yield and survival rate in any conditions.

The yellow pearl has a strong immunity to diseases and root rot, and does not require daily watering, special lighting or temperature. Of course, the bush will die in frost, but it does not require any specific heat. This simplifies its cultivation in an apartment with central heating.

Tiny Tim

The Dutch tomato Tiny Tim is short-growing (35 cm) and early ripening (80 days from planting). These qualities allow you to grow tomatoes at home, among indoor plants.

The small fruits taste juicy and sweet; up to 1 kg of crop can be harvested from one bush during the fruiting period. The advantage is its high protective functions; the tomato tolerates temperature changes and seasonal cold snaps well.

Pinocchio

Initially, the variety was bred for cultivation in open ground. But in recent years it has demonstrated excellent survival rate and fertility on balconies. The bush is not tall, but the yield is high. In this regard, it is better to tie it up so that the stem does not break under its own weight.

The fruits are universal - they are tasty when eaten raw, are perfectly preserved when canned, and go well with meat and fish.

Diseases and pests of tomatoes

The most common tomato diseases:

1. Late blight (brown rot). A dangerous disease that is fungal in nature and spreads quickly. The first signs are brown or brown spots on the stem, leaves and fruits of the plant. The occurrence and spread of the disease is facilitated by a warm and damp microclimate, so it is important to prevent overflow and ventilate the balcony in a timely manner. At the first manifestations of the disease, the fruits should be removed and diseased plants destroyed. Affected unripe tomatoes are immersed in hot water (60 degrees) for 2 minutes, then ripened in a dry, warm place.
2. Fomoz. The disease affects the fruits of the plant. Favorable conditions for the disease are too humid air and an excess of nitrogen in the soil. The symptom is the formation of a brown spot in the area of ​​the stalk, which indicates that the process of rotting has begun. Affected fruits should be removed and destroyed.
3. Apex rot. The disease affects still green fruits and manifests itself in the form of black spots and a rotten smell. Favorable conditions for the occurrence of the disease are a lack of moisture and calcium in the soil. Another probable cause is an excess of nitrogen. If watery or dry black spots are found on the fruit, the diseased plant must be treated with a solution of calcium nitrate. Affected fruits are destroyed.
4. Cracking of fruits. The disease is not infectious. The cause of the disease is improper watering. Due to excess moisture, the skin of the fruit cannot withstand the pressure and begins to crack. The cracks heal, but the tomatoes ripen earlier, without gaining enough weight. Therefore, you need to maintain the correct watering regime and choose varieties that are resistant to this disease.

In addition to the listed diseases, pests can cause significant harm to tomatoes. The most dangerous and common are spider mites and whiteflies.

Spider mites feed on cell sap, settling on the underside of leaves and entwining them with their web. This leads to gradual drying and falling of both the leaves and flowers. You can fight it using the folk method or using ready-made drugs purchased in the store.

Traditional methods:

1. Garlic infusion. 200 g of crushed cloves are infused by pouring 10 liters of warm water. The resulting product is sprayed onto the leaves.
2. Alcohol. The affected areas of the plant are sprayed with alcohol from a spray bottle. The treatment is repeated after 7 days.

Purchased funds:

• Fitoverm;
• Akarin;
• Apollo;
• Iskra-BIO.

The whitefly is a small insect that lays larvae on the inside of leaves. They are pale green in appearance and oval in shape. By sticking to the leaves, the larvae begin to feed on cell sap and cause the spread of sooty fungi. As a result, the plants dry out and die. For the prevention and control of the pest, Confidor and Mospilan are used.

How to properly grow tomatoes on the balcony?

On the balcony, as in open ground, tomatoes can be grown in two ways: seeds and seedlings. Experts recommend growing seedlings separately and then transplanting them to a permanent place on the balcony. Next, we’ll look step by step at how to grow seedlings and prepare the soil for the main planting.

Seed preparation

Seeds need to be prepared before planting:

1. First, the seeds need to be heated in the oven or frozen and placed in a gauze bag in boiling water for a couple of minutes. This method will allow the top film to burst, thereby speeding up the germination process. Sometimes seeds are ground with sand for the same purpose. Abrasive particles literally scrub the seed, removing its outer protective shell.
2. 12 hours before sowing in the ground, they need to be soaked in special solutions that stimulate the growth and development of seedlings. They can be purchased at the store. It is also necessary to disinfect the seeds to prevent common diseases - late blight, fungal pathologies, root rot.
3. In the container where the seedlings will be, there must be pre-prepared soil soaked in mineral fertilizers. It needs to be slightly moistened, shallow holes made and grains sown at a distance of 3–5 cm from each other.
4. Do not over-water, but moisturize daily. You can use a spray bottle.

In order not to use chemical compounds, potassium permanganate is used for disinfection. Mix a few manganese crystals with 200 ml of water and place the seeds in the solution for 2 hours.

Usually the seeds are sown towards the end of winter - beginning of spring, but for home conditions you can choose any time of the year, provided that they are artificially provided with light and warmth.

Soil composition and pot size

For tomato seedlings, you can dig up soil outside and mix it with fertilizers or purchase ready-made soil from flower shops. The composition should include:

• Earth;
• peat;
• sand;
• wood ash;
• humus or organic fertilizers;
• Sphagnum is moss that gives the soil the porosity necessary for growing tomatoes.

Regarding pot size: one of the best and most effective ways is to grow tomatoes in plastic bottles. You need to take 3- or 5-liter containers and cut off the top part, and fill the resulting bottom with soil and plant tomatoes. Seedlings can be grown in small rectangular boxes or plastic cups.

Timing and technology of sowing

You can plant tomatoes for balcony cultivation at any time of the year. As a rule, seeds are sown at the end of February, so that seedlings can be planted in April and enjoy the fruits in the summer. If the temperature regime allows and it is possible to provide the plants with lighting, then they can be planted all year round, regardless of the weather and time of year.

The sowing technology is no different from planting tomatoes in open ground. Seeds and soil are also prepared, and seedlings are planted in a container in the same way.

Growing tomatoes in plastic bottles

Tomatoes can be grown not only in pots, when the crown of the plant traditionally points upward. There is an alternative and much more original option - planting in plastic bottles, but... upside down!

Bottle planting technology

Slightly grown seedlings are usually planted in bottles. At the same time, it is better to abandon standard varieties with thick stems. They will not look entirely aesthetically pleasing.

The sequence of actions should be as follows:

1. Cut off the bottom of a clean 2-3 liter plastic bottle. The cut line is where the width of the container becomes stable, without narrowing or widening.
2. At the bottom of the cut part, make 1-3 small holes intended for drip watering of the plant. You can use a heated nail or a hand drill.
3. Turn this element upside down and insert it into the bottle. Mark and make 2-4 holes around the perimeter so that you can insert a strong rope into them and tie the planting container to the support. Disassemble the structure.
4. Take the seedling along with a small lump of earth and carefully insert it into the container through the cut off bottom. Insert the stem with leaves into the neck. To prevent the soil from falling out of it at first and to retain moisture, the roots of the seedling can be wrapped in a paper napkin or toilet paper. Another option is to make a plug for the neck from moss or foam rubber.
5. Fill the planting container with soil, lightly compacting it. Please note: it should not be laid to the top (the top in this case is the bottom of the bottle)! Leave a free space equal in height to the cut piece.
6. Place it in the bottle so that the holes for the rope line up. Pull it through and securely tie the container to the support.

This may seem incomprehensible and complicated, but a few thematic photos and videos will definitely help you figure it out.

Making a hole for hanging seedlings in a bottle

Placing a plant in a bottle

Advice! For the convenience of hanging planting containers, you can use plastic buckets. You just need to make holes in them for the seedlings.

Advantages and disadvantages of using hanging containers

Growing tomatoes upside down has its pros and cons. The advantages include:

• Convenient watering. You don’t have to focus on watering around the root or along the walls of the container. It is enough to pour water into the inverted bottom, and it will flow drop by drop into the ground.
• Decorative planting and its originality. A bush with its roots up is a mesmerizing sight in itself, and if it also bears fruit, the effect is doubly amazing.
• Saving space. Using vertical space allows you to free up the window sill for traditionally growing greenery.
• There is no need to tie up the bushes.

Bottles with soil can be placed in decorative flowerpots

With all the tangible advantages, this method of growing tomatoes also has disadvantages:

• While the root system is small, water can flow down through the neck of the bottle. The solution may be the above-mentioned plugs or substituting another pot with a plant under the planting container.
• A bottle with a fruiting bush can weigh up to 25 kg, so you will have to take care of reliable support for the plants. Most often, metal brackets are used for these purposes.
• A bottle of soil limits light access to the plant while it is small.

Thus, when choosing one or another method of growing tomatoes, you should carefully weigh its pros and cons.

Necessary conditions for growing seedlings

In order to grow high-quality seedlings, which will later produce good and fertile tomato bushes, you need to follow the growing and care instructions.

See also Description, characteristics and reviews of tomato variety Lyana

Lighting

Tomatoes love light, so they need to be provided with daylight from 6 am to 8 pm approximately. If vegetables are grown in winter, when it gets dark at 16.00, you need to provide them with an additional few hours of lighting; it is better to use UV daylight lamps, which imitate sunlight as much as possible.

Tomatoes love light, and during the day the container with seedlings or bushes should be rotated so that the plants receive enough light from all sides.

Humidity and temperature

In addition to fertilizing and regular watering, seedlings require favorable temperatures. At the time of sowing and before germination, +25...+30 °C is considered excellent for tomatoes. If it is cooler on the windowsill or balcony, then the container with the sown tomatoes can be placed near the gas stove or near the radiator. When the seedlings begin to sprout, the temperature can be reduced by 5 degrees. In the summer, when it is sunny and hot, the seedlings can be placed outside, but be sure to be taken away at night.

Humidity should be relative. Dryness destroys plants, so they need to be sprayed with a spray bottle once a day, or better yet, install a humidifier.

Expert opinion

Stanislav Pavlovich

Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert

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At a temperature not lower than +16 °C, the seedlings will sprout, but will develop very slowly. The lowest possible value is +11 °C; if it is cooler, all active processes stop and the seeds die.

Top dressing

During growth and development, seedlings are fed several times:

1. The first time 10 days after germination. For 2 liters of water you need to dilute 1 tbsp. l. urea and water the seedlings. This will speed up growth and allow the plant to get stronger.
2. After another 10 days, Rossa, an organic fertilizer, is recommended.

Transplanting seedlings to a permanent place

Planting tomatoes in a permanent place is stressful for the plants, and maximum attention should be paid to this process.

Balcony miracle

One of the most famous and time-tested varieties. It is ideal for growing on the balcony. A variety that fully lives up to its name and is truly wonderful. The fruits are an attractive bright red color that you definitely want to try. Their flesh is juicy and fleshy. The most important advantage of this variety is that tomatoes ripen even in low light conditions. They are mainly consumed fresh, since tomatoes are sweet and very aromatic. Caring for them is very simple; you don’t even need to tie up the branches.

What care do balcony tomatoes need?

To get a good harvest, it is important to provide the crop with proper care. Tomatoes love to live in nature, but they are not always comfortable in apartment conditions. It is necessary to artificially provide them with temperature, lighting, pollination, nutrition, watering and fertilizing.

Watering and fertilizing

You need to water the bushes from the 1st day of planting in a permanent place. During transplantation, organic fertilizers are needed. Before flowering, you can water it using growth stimulants. During the period of fruit set, superphosphates can be added.

Loosening and pinching

It is inconvenient to loosen the soil in small containers, and there is a risk of damage to the root system. Therefore, drainage or dry algae are initially added to the soil. Not all varieties need to be planted, so it all depends on the type of tomato.

Pollination

For a vegetable garden on a windowsill, there are self-pollinating varieties that can be chosen for planting tomatoes on the balcony.

Under natural conditions, pollination occurs with the help of wind or insects. If you need to pollinate homemade tomatoes, use a brush, a fan, or periodically tapping the pot (this creates vibration, causing pollen to fall off)

Diseases and pests: protection and prevention

On a balcony, the risk of disease is significantly reduced, but the plant may wither due to improper care. To protect against pests, disinfection is carried out during transplantation. For prevention, you can spray with wood ash.

On the balcony near the tomatoes you can sow herbs that will give a beautiful appearance to the mini-garden and repel pests (basil, parsley).

Tomato care

Tomatoes grown on the balcony can produce a harvest only if they are provided with the necessary conditions that are as close to natural as possible, and if they are properly cared for. Mandatory agronomic techniques - irrigation, loosening the soil, fertilizing. Almost everything is like in a garden.

Features of watering

Tomatoes growing in pots need regular soil moisture. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is constantly moist, but not wet. Also, it should not dry out, which often happens in the summer if the weather is hot. This is especially important during the formation of ovaries, which can fall off due to lack of moisture and irregular irrigation.

The frequency of watering is determined not by days, but based on the condition of the soil. If the top layer of soil is dry, then irrigation is necessary. As for the norm, water the tomatoes so that the water completely saturates the entire volume of soil. In this case, only warm water is used; cold water causes a sharp temperature drop at the roots, which has a bad effect on the plant.

To better retain soil moisture and water tomatoes less often, mulch the soil. Peat, sawdust, and dark film are used. The next day after watering, the soil around the tomatoes is carefully loosened, but not deeply, so as not to injure the plants.

During the period of ripening of early ripening varieties with favorable yield, the frequency of watering is reduced. This way the fruits ripen faster and do not crack. The remaining tomatoes must receive water regularly so that the following clusters form and fill.

Fertilizing

Tomatoes growing on the balcony are fed with ready-made mineral fertilizers, which contain all the necessary elements, for example, “Mortar” and “Kemira-universal”. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions. During the budding period, tomatoes are sprayed with the preparation “Ovary”, which stimulates its formation well, or fed with boric acid.

Young plants need nitrogen before flowering, in the period when ovaries begin to form and fruits begin to form - in potassium, and throughout the growing season - in phosphorus.

Bush formation

Low-growing tomatoes do not need to be shaped, so they can be left to grow as is. In mature plants, you can cut off only the lower leaves under the first fruit cluster after it has filled. This will promote better ventilation of the soil underneath.

For tall tomatoes, leave 2 or 3 stems and tie them to a support. All stepsons are removed after they reach a length of 2-3 cm. They are pinched at the base, and the injured area is powdered with ash. Remove the lower and yellowed leaves.

To form additional roots, add soil to the pots. Plants respond to such care with a good increase in yield.

Bonsai

One of the most unpretentious varieties, caring for which will not cause you much trouble. The maximum height of the bush is about 30 cm. You will see fruits already on the 85th day after emergence. Tomatoes grow bright red, small, round, sweet, with a piquant sourness. These are delicious to eat both fresh and canned.

Pearl red and yellow

Similar varieties, the main difference of which is the color of ripe tomatoes. Pearls grow no higher than 35-40 cm and do not need garters or supports. The berries are two-chambered, sweet, juicy, but also dense.

The yellow pearl reaches 20-30 g and becomes golden and translucent when ripe. Red has the appropriate color and weight from 30 to 40 g.

Shade-tolerant, compact plants, resistant to low temperatures and easy to grow.

When growing tomatoes at home, you should remember that not every soil is suitable for them. For better results, take humus, chernozem and sand in a ratio of 5:4:1, add fertilizers (a glass of ash, potash fertilizers 40 g, superphosphate 40 g and 10 g of urea). Otherwise, mini-tomatoes are quite unpretentious, productive and tasty.

How to care for plantings

As soon as the green loops appear, the film can be removed from the box. But the boxes remain in a warm room until all the crops have sprouted. After the seeds germinate, the box is transferred to the balcony and is already provided with abundant lighting.

IMPORTANT! If there is insufficient lighting, the sprouts will stretch out.

The air temperature should fluctuate between 18-20 degrees above zero. There is no need for abundant watering - just keep the soil slightly moist. It is better to moisten the soil with a spray bottle. If water gets on the seedlings, the balcony needs to be ventilated and the air temperature raised by a few degrees.

Grown seedlings need to be hardened off regularly: on warm days, be sure to open the windows. The hardening time starts at 15 minutes, and every day the interval is increased by 3-5 minutes. You can judge the hardening of seedlings by the blued lower parts of the stems.

Watering remains moderate. A prerequisite for growing seedlings is loosening the soil (here it is important not to damage the rhizome).

Renet

Another domestic variety, called by gardeners a “miracle of selection” for its resistance to diseases and sudden temperature changes, ease of cultivation, very early ripeness (55-65 days), excellent taste and high transportability.

When grown outdoors, it is possible to sow under film as early as the second half of April. In this case, the ripening period extends until August.

The height of the bush is no more than 60 cm. The fruits are thick-skinned, dense, elongated, each weigh 50-80 g. There are up to 8 pieces in a cluster. The yield per bush is approximately 4-5 kg.

Renet is resistant to diseases and is not susceptible to late blight due to early ripening.

Balcony red F1

Ideal for home growing. The bush is small, its height does not exceed 30 cm. The bright red fruits will delight you 85 days after germination. They will be small in size, but very sweet and aromatic, with a pleasant taste. The pulp is juicy and fleshy.