How to feed petunia to achieve lush flowering

Rules for feeding petunia

Caring for petunias includes not only watering and weeding; fertilizers are required to replenish the deficiency of mineral and organic substances in the soil. Without them, you can’t count on abundant flowering.

In the area where petunia will be planted, autumn fertilizing in the form of organic fertilizers is more than appropriate. However, organic matter alone is not enough. Hybrid varieties (and most petunias are hybrid) are demanding on the presence of micro and macroelements.

But before you feed the flowers, you need to remember a few rules:

It is better to underfeed the plantings than to fertilize beyond the norm. Excess is harmful to flowers; it can cause burns to the roots, wilting of leaves and even death of the plant.
Petunias grown in pots, flowerpots, boxes, flowerpots need more minerals, since the soil is quickly depleted.
Instead of adding minerals once a week, flowers can be fed every 2-3 days, only the concentration of fertilizers should be 3-4 times lower than that recommended by the manufacturer (on the package).
Feeding petunias for growth and flowering does not replace other care: watering, loosening, weeding.
It is preferable to add aqueous solutions of mineral substances (rather than in dry form).
Fertilizers are applied only to moist soil, approximately an hour and a half after abundant watering (we are talking about root feeding).

Basic rules for fertilizing

It is advisable to feed petunias throughout the spring and summer, since the lack of nutrients negatively affects the flowering and growth of these ornamental plants. But it should be borne in mind that excess fertilizer also has a bad effect on the condition of petunias. When applying fertilizing, it is first recommended to consider the following factors:

Season. In spring, plants need more nitrogen, and in summer, when they form buds and bloom, they need to be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Fertilizer application time. Root feeding should be applied only to pre-moistened soil.

The order of applying fertilizers does not depend on the variety of petunias, since all plants equally need mineral and organic fertilizers. In this case, fertilizers can be applied after pruning, before and during flowering. Almost any fertilizer is suitable for petunias, but they should be used during a certain period. It is also worth considering that iodine cannot be added in its pure form as a solution, as it leads to burns. Petunia should receive it during root feeding with complex fertilizer.

Petunias prefer liquid mineral and organic fertilizers. At the same time, organics have a longer action, but are absorbed more slowly than minerals.

Deadlines

Feeding petunias for growth and flowering begins after picking seedlings (after 1-2 weeks) and continues throughout the growing season. The choice of product and its composition directly depend on the task at hand (growth, accumulation of green mass, formation of buds, flowering).

Fertilizing seedlings

After planting in the soil, young shoots need nitrogen. In order for the seedlings to produce more greenery, the stems to be strong and elastic, a week or two after picking, you can begin to fertilize the seedlings already in boxes or containers.

If the seeds are sown immediately in open ground, without prior germination in pots, then 10-14 days after the sprouts appear (with the appearance of two true leaves), nitrogen fertilizers can be applied.

It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, no matter how great the temptation. Petunia seedlings will gain green mass, but flowering will be late and weak.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied before budding begins. Among the most popular and actively used fertilizers are urea (carbamide), nitrophoska, and ammonium nitrate.

If seedlings grow poorly after planting in the ground, despite abundant watering and the conditions created for them, they need to be fed with a solution of B vitamins (B1, B6, B12). To prepare it, an ampoule of the vitamin must be diluted in a liter of warm water and sprayed on young plants. This procedure is recommended to be carried out once a week.

In addition, you can use growth stimulants - “Zircon”, “Epin”.

Feeding during bud formation

As soon as the buds begin to form, nitrogen can be set aside; it is not needed during this period. Now comes the turn of potassium and phosphorus preparations.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering petunia seedlings during the period of setting buds with a solution of the drug Uniflor Bud, containing potassium and phosphorus in the required quantity and bioavailable form, or separately phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

To speed up budding, petunias can be fertilized using the root and foliar methods.

During the flowering period

Feeding petunias at the beginning and during flowering ensures the health and attractive appearance of the flower bed.

In addition to the already mentioned potassium and phosphorus, the abundant flowering of petunias is supported by iron preparations (ferronite, ammonium nitrate). They will also prevent plant diseases, yellowing and falling leaves.

Without greenery, flowering is also impossible. The flowerbed will bloom longer if you fertilize the petunias with Crystal.

It is important to remove dried flowers so that the flower bed looks neat.

Fertilizers for fast growth

Are petunias growing poorly? You can feed the flowers with special fertilizers. Most often, seedlings grow poorly in poor soil because they lack nutrition:

Fertilizer such as nitrogen, which is necessary for plants at the initial stage of development, is responsible for the development of green mass Therefore, poorly developing seedlings are fed with a solution of ammonium nitrate (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water) or ready-made mineral fertilizers, which contain a predominance of nitrogen.
In order for petunia bushes to grow and remain strong , foliar fertilizing with calcium nitrate is carried out 3 times per season (2 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water).
If petunia seedlings do not grow well, they are watered with a mixture of special fertilizers. To do this, according to the instructions, separately prepare a solution from the drug HB-101, Energen and Fitosporin-M. Mix the prepared solutions and pour 1 tablespoon onto a small pot of seedlings. Such fertilizing will not only improve plant growth, but also make them resistant to various diseases and unfavorable environmental conditions.

Feeding petunia with yeast

Petunias will grow by leaps and bounds if they are fed with a yeast solution 3 times per season:

after picking seedlings;
after planting flowers in a flowerbed or flowerpot;
half a month after the 2nd feeding.

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Prepare a yeast solution from dry yeast according to the following recipe:

yeast (10 g) and granulated sugar (2 tbsp) are diluted in a liter of warm water;
the mixture is placed in a warm place and infused for three hours;
prepare a working solution for watering flowers from 500 ml of yeast infusion and 10 liters of water.

Since elements such as potassium and calcium disappear from the soil during fermentation, after watering with a yeast solution, fertilize the soil with ash or special fertilizers.

Attention! Yeast solution should be used for feeding in warm weather. The soil should not be cold, otherwise the yeast will not “work”.

What fertilizers to use

Fertilizers for petunias come in different forms: liquid, dry, “long-lasting” (organic).

Application before sowing and after transplantation depends on the goals set, as well as on the composition of the soil in which the flowers grow.

Liquid

Feeding of seedlings and adult plants is carried out by root and foliar methods.

It is very convenient to use fertilizers in the form of aqueous solutions. Dry powders and granules are diluted in warm water in the ratio indicated on the package, and watered with them on the soil or sprayed on the foliage.

The use of liquid fertilizers is carried out only after preliminary moistening of the soil in dry weather, preferably in the early morning or in the evening after sunset.

In the heat, water evaporates, the concentration of salts dissolved in it increases, and this can seriously harm the plantings.

Liquid fertilizers, mono and complex, can also be purchased in finished form. The main condition is not to exceed the recommended concentration of solutions (less is possible, more is not possible).

Dry

Dry fertilizers (powder, granules) containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium are usually diluted with water and watered the planted plants.

However, the same phosphorus can be applied in dry form to damp soil, embedding it shallowly into the soil.

Long-lasting

This category includes preparations that are added to the holes during planting, mixing dry preparations with soil. We are talking about superphosphates, nitroammophoska, Agricola, Ethisso and others. When watering, the preparations gradually dissolve, releasing beneficial substances to the plants.

Long-lasting fertilizers include organic fertilizers: manure, bird droppings, compost, humus. The latter should stop emitting the smell of ammonia; the compost is a loose brown mass that does not stick to your hands.

Organic matter is added to the soil in the fall, preparing the area for landscaping. In the spring, the flower bed is dug up, moistened and seedlings are planted in fertilized soil.

Pinching petunias

For better bushiness and splendor of the plant, the petunia is pinched - the crown is cut off around 4-5 leaves to obtain a new growth point. Pinching should only be done with sterile instruments - pruning shears, sharp scissors, trying to damage the young sprout as little as possible.

After a month, when the plant gets stronger and produces new shoots, pinching is carried out again. This will allow the bush to form a rounded shape, make it thicker, and accordingly, the flowering will be more abundant - the more shoots, the more flower stalks will be formed.

Petunia planted in open ground is pinched after transplantation and good rooting of the plants. Cut shoots of perennial petunia can become planting material - after rooting, new petunia bushes will grow from them.

It is impossible to shape an ampelous petunia - its long strands curl and curl wherever they want. To care for it, it will be enough to create a support around which long shoots will twine and remove dried buds. This will “refresh” the plant, encouraging it to bloom for a long time.

Video “Pinching petunias for abundant flowering”

Feeding petunias for lush flowering and growth

Flowering is the main reason for planting petunias in flower beds and pots. The bell-shaped flower can be white, pink, purple, scarlet, lilac or violet. The two-color buds are very beautiful.

How to care for petunia so that it blooms long and profusely?

Mineral fertilizers

When deciding what to feed petunia for abundant flowering, first of all you need to pay attention to mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing solutions are very easy to prepare at home. The manufacturer indicates on the packaging the required dosage and ratio of the drug and water.

Nitroammofoska

The fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in various proportions.

During the flowering period, the drug 8:24:24 is needed.

To water the flowers, you need to dilute 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers in 10 liters of water. For each bush you need ½ liter of solution, as often as every two weeks.

Azofoska

Also useful for flowering petunias. Its composition, in addition to the already mentioned nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, includes sulfur.

Unlike nitroammophoska, azofoska is poorly soluble in water. It is recommended to stir 1 tbsp. l. in 10 liters of water, strain and apply by foliar method (by spraying leaves).

Potassium monophosphate

The fertilizer does not contain nitrogen. During the flowering period of petunia, it is added to the soil in the form of an aqueous solution to increase the duration of bud formation.

In addition, monopotassium phosphate stimulates the formation of side shoots (with flowers) and protects against diseases.

Urea

Ideal fertilizer for petunia. It protects the plant from diseases and pests, stimulates growth and flowering. To prepare the fertilizer, 5 g of urea is diluted in 1 liter of warm water and sprayed on the flower garden (the foliar method is preferable).

Organic fertilizers

Organic fertilizers are also used for growing flowers. Organic matter can be added in the fall, and in the spring you just dig up the flowerbed, you can prepare a solution and water the petunias with it.

For fertilizer, mix manure or bird droppings with water (1:10) and leave for a week in a warm place. Then filter, add 5 g of copper sulfate and potassium permanganate.

Used for root feeding, ½ liter is required per plant.

Complex fertilizing

Undoubtedly, universal complex preparations designed for feeding are convenient to use. The dosage of the applied drug is carefully adjusted; it contains the required amount of minerals in a form accessible to the plant.

Uniflor Flower – contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, sulfur in a chelated form accessible to plants. Provides intense, uniform and long-lasting flowering;
Crystalon Yellow - contains equal amounts (13%) of nitrogen and potassium, phosphorus (40%), magnesium, sulfur, iron, copper, boron. Stimulates the growth of side shoots, protects petunias from unfavorable conditions, promotes long-term flowering;
Green Guy Aqua contains essential minerals (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, as well as iron, magnesium, sulfur, vitamins, succinic acid. Stimulates the formation of buds, supports abundant flowering, makes the color of the petals more saturated;
Master Agro includes magnesium oxide in addition to potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. Protects plants from unfavorable environmental conditions, increases immunity, makes leaves and flowers brighter.

Kemira Lux, Plantofol, Agrecol and other drugs act similarly.

Folk remedies

Not a single gardener can do without folk remedies, proven over the years, accessible and effective.

Boric acid

Boric acid powder (2 g) is diluted in 10 liters of water and watered over petunias during budding and flowering. In addition to stimulating the formation of flowers, boric acid supports flowering and also fights pests in flower beds. For foliar feeding, only 0.5 g of powder is required per 10 liters of water.

Nettle infusion

After sowing seeds or transplanting seedlings, it is recommended to water the petunias with nettle infusion. It contains a large number of micro and macroelements, therefore it is extremely useful.

To prepare it, you need to finely chop young nettle shoots, put them in a bucket or barrel, compact them tightly and pour boiling water over them. After 8-10 hours, strain and water the plantings.

Lemon acid

To return the leaves to a rich green color, petunia is watered with a solution of citric acid (1 g per 1 liter of water). Only freshly prepared solution should be used.

succinic acid

The seeds are treated with a solution of succinic acid (0.004%) to increase their germination. To do this, the seed is soaked for 12-24 hours in succinic acid.

Yeast

Yeast provides plants with B vitamins, which results in long-lasting, abundant flowering.

To prepare the top dressing, 100 g of fresh yeast is diluted in 0.5 liters of warm water (a large container is needed) and left warm for 1-2 hours. Then dilute 1:10 and water the plantings.

Ash

Wood ash will replace phosphorus and potash fertilizers. It dissolves easily in water; for feeding, stir 1 ½ tbsp. wood ash in 10 liters of water and water the plants. Thanks to it, the bushes will turn green and bloom intensively.

Ammonia

For root dressings 1 tsp. ammonia should be diluted in 1 liter. water and water the petunias. Ammonia is a source of nitrogen. Fertilizing is carried out after transplanting seedlings into open ground and before the appearance of buds.

Manure

For feeding, only rotted manure is used: it does not contain weed seeds or insect eggs. In addition, beneficial substances are converted into a bioavailable form. Fresh manure is very aggressive for sprouts.

Rotted manure is diluted with water 1:10, filtered and watered the plants.

How to apply correctly

Feeding solutions, prepared in accordance with the concentration, are applied both at the root and along the leaves. It is recommended to alternate root and foliar feeding. Fertilize petunias after heavy watering, in dry, windless weather, in the early morning or evening.

Folk remedies for petunia

You can feed flowers using folk remedies that do not contain chemicals:

Boric acid. In order for petunia to bloom profusely, it is watered with a solution of boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water) or sprayed with a less concentrated solution (0.5 g per 10 liters of water).
Wood ash is a source of potassium and other elements necessary for petunia to bloom. Dry ash can be sprinkled on the soil in flower beds or flowerpots before watering. But many gardeners prefer to use ash infusion, which is prepared within 24 hours. First, fill a third of a liter jar of ash with 1 liter of hot water. Before use, the finished ash infusion is filtered and each square meter of flower garden is watered with 0.4 liters of nutritional fertilizer.
Nettle infusion is used after planting petunias in the ground. The flowers are fed with nettle infusion when they take root, that is, about three weeks after planting the seedlings in the flowerbed.
Water the petunia with a solution of citric acid if the leaves on the bushes turn yellow. Prepare a solution of 12 g of crystals and 3 liters of water. It is recommended to add iron sulfate (7.5 g) to this feeding. Water the flowers with the prepared fertilizer or spray the foliage. Within two weeks after using citric acid with iron, the leaves of the petunia will turn green again and it will begin to bloom profusely. To prevent yellowing of the leaves, prepare a less concentrated solution (1 tablespoon of acid per 10 liters of water).

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Timely feeding is a guarantee of abundant and long flowering of petunias, which will decorate the garden, plot, front garden or balcony with their bright multi-colored flowers until autumn.

Top dressing for ampelous petunia

At home or when organizing a vertical flower bed, petunias are planted not in open ground, but in a pot or other container. Limited space leads to rapid depletion of the soil, so fertilizing should be frequent and balanced.

For feeding, it is recommended to use ready-made complex fertilizers, without chlorine, with equal contents of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Dissolve 1 tsp per 10 liters of water. fertilizers Every day, 1 liter of solution is poured into a pot with hanging plants.

Types of petunia

Petunia is distinguished by a wide variety of species and varieties - from bush types to cascading, hanging ones, which is why it is so popular. And also - a variety of colors - white, red, various shades of pink, purple with large, small, fringed, double flowers.

Petunia terry

Such diversity could not go unnoticed, which is why flower growers take such careful care of flowers so that they can please the eye all season long.

Simple bush varieties are often planted in flowerbeds or flowerpots, combining species of different colors.

Terry petunia is good in flower beds if you combine several different varieties.

Ampel views will decorate a house, a gazebo, or a balcony. With the help of cascading petunia, you can create individual compositions in the park, on the garden plot, decorate walls, gazebos. Planted in a flowerbed or flowerpot, it will spread across the ground in a beautiful flowering carpet.

How to feed petunia in summer

Summer is a time of intensive growth and abundant flowering of petunias. What fertilizers do plants need?

Feeding in June

After the petunias are transplanted into open ground, 2 weeks later, they are fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1 tsp per 10 liters of water). Every 7 days, you need to dilute an ampoule of the universal Zircon fertilizer in a bucket of water and water the flowers (0.5 liters for each bush).

Alternatively, you can alternate feeding with Kemira and potassium nitrate (15 g per 10 liters of water). At the beginning of bud formation, Uniflor Bud is useful.

Feeding petunias in July and August

Starting in July, petunias need phosphorus and potassium preparations: potassium monophosphate, Kemira, potassium nitrate, and complex fertilizers for flowering are suitable.

Types of fertilizers

Petunia pleases the eye with the bright colors on its lush bushes all summer long. And although many gardeners find it an unpretentious plant, timely and thorough care is important for it. Therefore, if you want to achieve long and abundant flowering, try to choose the right fertilizers for petunias.

They come in three types:

Liquid – concentrated solutions of nutrients. Before use, they must be diluted with water (Agricola, Uniflor, Ideal).
Dry mixture - powder or granules. Diluted in water according to instructions. Flower growers mainly use Kemira Lux, Plantofol, and Master.
Long-acting - such a long-lasting fertilizer in granules, applied once during planting, will last the plant for the whole summer, but there will not be too lush flowering (encapsulated Agricola, nitroammophoska, superphosphate, etc.)

Gardeners with experience in growing petunias practically do not use slow-release fertilizers. And if you have to use them, then the dose is reduced by half or even three.

Primary feeding

When growing seedlings at home, you cannot do without fertilizing. This should be done three times:

When did the first shoots appear?
After the greenies grew up, became stronger and hardened.
Before planting seedlings in a flower bed.

For the very first time, feed newly sprouted seeds, that is, a couple of weeks after sowing. Do this very carefully, preferably through a pipette or syringe without a needle, so that the seedlings do not die.

Advice! Just in case, double the amount of water to dilute the fertilizer. This will protect the seedlings from “burning”.

For the first feeding of petunia seedlings, a liquid complex fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen and iron is well suited.

Secondary fertilization

After the first buds appear, spray the plant with a potassium-containing fertilizer, such as Plantofol, from a spray bottle. And feeding petunia with Crystal Green will add splendor to the bush, but this fertilizer should be applied at the seedling stage.

When petunia blooms, you can support it with Aquarin, Camera, Crystal, but do this in the form of root feeding 3 times a month. To increase the size of flowers, use Epin or Zircon at the budding stage. The use of fertilizer enriched with calcium will help the formation of new shoots.

Possible mistakes

The main mistake made by beginning gardeners is failure to follow the rules for preparing solutions. Exceeding the recommended concentration can lead to disease and death of plants.

Long-term use of nitrogen fertilizers will lead to the growth of green mass, but will “extinguish” flowering.

Substances containing chlorine are harmful to petunias.

Planting in the ground is carried out in early June, fertilizing begins 1-2 weeks later.

It is recommended to feed hanging plants daily with a weak solution, since weekly application of a concentrated product has a detrimental effect on the root system and will lead to the death of the flowers.

Blooming balconies

Very often in cities you can see balconies surrounded by flowers. This petunia rejoices in the summer and the sun. Abundant flowering and various shades have made it so popular among gardeners, and they are happy to grow petunia on balconies and window sills.

For decorating balconies, annual varieties of petunias are most often chosen:

hanging plant pots are used to grow hanging species - beautiful flowering vines up to 2 meters long will decorate the walls of the house and cover the railings;
cascading species - usually hang down under their own weight, and are planted in hanging flowerpots and floor flowerpots;
erect petunia is a low-growing species - up to 20 centimeters, it can be planted in balcony boxes, petunia will decorate window sills and balcony parapets.

If you approach the design of a balcony or loggia in your own apartment creatively, you can create a kind of blooming oasis and enjoy the fragrance.

Various colors of petunias will help create bright, contrasting color spots or combinations of different shades of the same color, combining smooth and terry varieties.

Ampelous petunia on the balcony

To plant petunia on the balcony, you need to choose the right container - for one plant - at least 3 liters of soil - petunia has a well-developed root system, and if suddenly your flowering plant begins to wither and wither - look to see if the container is too small? Be sure to make a drainage hole in the planter or pot.

The soil for petunia should be loose; for this purpose, you can add washed sand (in a ratio of 1:5) or lime to the prepared soil. You need to plant flowers with the calculation of 5 liters of soil per 1 bush, 3 pieces per meter box.

Temperature – the best conditions for petunia – up to +20ºС. Some varieties of large-flowered plants can bloom at higher temperatures, but petunias definitely need fresh air. It is better to plant it on balconies and loggias facing south - on the northern side you are unlikely to see abundant flowering, but on the southern side - in hot weather you need to periodically spray the leaves, early in the morning and in the evening, so that the sun's rays do not scorch the leaves.

Watering and feeding petunia in a pot planted on the balcony is no different from bushes planted in open ground: a couple of weeks after planting and the appearance of sprouts, it is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, then, during the period of budding and flowering, with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. It is very important to observe the frequency of “feeding” - at least once a week.

Advice from flower growers

Petunia is an unpretentious plant. It grows in lighted areas without direct sunlight, abundant watering and in fertile soil without fertilizing. During flowering, faded buds need to be cut or torn off, and the stems and leaves should be inspected for diseases and pests.

How to feed petunia if the leaves turn yellow

Most often, yellow leaves indicate a lack of iron: it is necessary to feed the plants so that they turn green again and are pleasing to the eye.

Petunia diseases

Frequent diseases of petunia are:

chlorosis;
blackleg;
powdery mildew;
root rot.

With chlorosis, petunia leaves turn yellow. For successful recovery of the plant, it is sufficient to treat it with preparations containing iron chelate, for example, “Ferovit”.

Blackleg is a disease that often causes harm to young seedlings. You will not confuse it with other damage to the plant - it causes the stem to darken and soften. To avoid the disease, it is necessary to carefully observe the watering regime, avoiding waterlogging of the soil.

A white coating on the leaves that looks like droplets of dew is powdery mildew . It usually appears after sudden changes in temperature or high air humidity for a long time. It’s a pity, but the plants that are severely damaged by the disease will have to be destroyed, and the damaged areas of the rest will have to be removed.

Effective in combating it:

fungicide "Topaz";
"Zircon".

Root rot occurs on petunia if high humidity and low air temperatures are observed for a long time: the stems, leaves and even flowers of the petunia become covered with brown spots, and then with a gray fluff. Remove damaged parts of the plant, treat it with fungicides and temporarily limit watering.

The best time to feed

Fertilizers are applied in the third week of the sprouts’ life, because at first the seeds have enough nutrients with which they are treated. But there is a second scheme, according to which petunias are fed for the first time after 7-10 days, and fertilizers are regularly applied until the final formation of buds. Both options are quite viable, so choose the one that will work best in your conditions and with your soil.

Photo: rastenieinfo.ru

How and what to feed pepper seedlings correctly

Special fertilizers

Even with proper care, sometimes petunia seedlings become pale or grow poorly. Let's look at how we can help plants.

Pale seedling

If the color of the leaves of petunia seedlings becomes not bright, but very pale, this indicates a disease such as chlorosis. That is, iron deficiency. Nitrogen and manganese deficiency exhibit exactly the same symptoms. For treatment, you need to feed the seedlings with iron chelate or Kemira complex fertilizer.

Sometimes these methods are not enough. In this case, it is recommended to use a folk remedy: a tablespoon of citric acid should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution should be watered over the plants. After a couple of weeks, the plant should again delight the eye with bright green leaves.

Seedlings grow poorly

Sometimes good, strong seedlings suddenly begin to grow poorly.

In this case, firstly, you need to pay attention to the size of the glass in which it grows. Often the house becomes too small and the seedling simply does not have enough nutrients.
It is also possible that the seedlings have a deficiency of nitrogen fertilizers . Nitrogen is “responsible” for the growth and formation of the aboveground part of the plant.
But you shouldn’t forget about the roots. For a more powerful root system, phosphorus .

To correct these mistakes, you need to immediately transplant the seedlings into a larger container and add fertilizer. The concentration of the solution must be made 2 times weaker than indicated on the label.

It would be a good idea to feed with fertilizers containing iron, boron, magnesium, zinc and other substances.

For abundant flowering

To speed up the flowering of an already formed bush, you need to add potassium fertilizers. To do this, you can fertilize the leaf once with a one percent solution of boric acid or Planfotol. The holes on the spray bottle should be small enough.

For active growth of the root system and the absence of yellowness on the leaves, the planted seedlings should be fed with ammonium nitrate.

Sometimes petunia flowers don't look bright enough. In these cases, it will be necessary to treat the bushes of the capricious young lady with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. And reduce nitrogen fertilizers to a minimum.

The following fertilizers are best suited for these purposes:

Kemira Lux;
Aquarin;
Crystallon;
Polychem;

Plants need to be fertilized once every two weeks. But sometimes gardeners, for a more uniform supply of nutrients to the plant, fertilize them every 2-3 days. But they make the solution much weaker.

Important! For more luxuriant flowering, it is necessary not only to fertilize the petunia, but also to promptly remove faded buds.

Rules for fertilizing petunias

Those who are planning to grow petunias on their own would do well to become familiar with the fertilizers that need to be used for seedlings.

By feeding young petunia seedlings, for example, with monopotassium phosphate, you can ensure that these flowers will delight you with bright buds for many seasons.

The first thing a novice gardener needs to understand is that providing petunia with important minerals and trace elements is one of the mandatory requirements that guarantees abundant flowering.

When two weeks have passed since sowing the seeds in the ground, the first fertilizing is carried out - for this, the seedlings are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide. This must be done by spraying so that the solution gets not only onto the seedlings, but also into the soil.

It is imperative to keep the soil moist, making sure that there is neither too much nor too little moisture, since this is also not good for young plants.

Young seedlings grow well if they are fertilized with vitamin supplements, which can be bought at a regular pharmacy and a solution prepared based on them. Typically, this fertilizing is carried out between waterings. Its frequency is once every two weeks.

Fertilizers for petunias and vitamins

In addition, a good effect, manifested in the abundant flowering of young petunia plants, is ensured by the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers into the soil. Thanks to this element, the seedlings will become strong.

After waiting for the first leaves to form, the plants are transplanted into individual containers, after which they also need to be fertilized.

A solution of yellow crystallon is suitable as a top dressing: it is prepared from one tablespoon of the substance, which is diluted in a bucket of water. The benefits of such watering will be significant, because it will help the formation of a strong root system.

Along with the above fertilizers, you can also use a solution of green crystallon. This feeding is carried out by spraying on the leaves and stems of seedlings. As a result, the plants will grow actively and will delight you with abundant flowering in summer and spring.

To prepare the solution, follow a similar scheme as in the case of yellow crystallon. In some cases, it is permissible to use other available fertilizers instead of green crystal:

"Uniflor Micro".
Vitamins B1-Thiamin.
Vitamin B12.

Those who are going to grow a lot of petunia seedlings are recommended to purchase complex fertilizers, which are offered in every flower shop.

Frequency of feeding petunias

Having selected suitable fertilizers for petunia seedlings, keep in mind that fertilizing must be done more and more often over time, bringing the amount up to three times a week. Moreover, it is recommended to do this between regular waterings.

At the stage of growing seedlings, it is necessary to keep the soil in which the petunia seedlings grow moist. Considering its condition, it is necessary to choose the time to feed the plants.

When the seedlings reach a state sufficient to enter the flowering phase, it is necessary, along with root feeding, to carry out foliar feeding, which involves applying fertilizer by spraying.

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Step one - picking

What is important is not the picking procedure itself, but the container in which the petunia will grow before planting in a permanent place. The most optimal volume is 0.2-0.3 liters. Less is not possible, more, up to 0.5 liters. - Can. In a small volume, petunia will not be able to grow good roots and green mass, and this will undoubtedly affect the quality of bush development and flowering.

Step two - warm-cold, day-night mode

Petunias need differences in day and night temperatures. This contributes to the formation of strong, stocky bushes and the growth of additional shoots, which will later bear buds. Of course, if seedlings grow in an apartment, these conditions are difficult to provide, but it is possible if there is a loggia. For grown petunia bushes, a night temperature of 10-16 degrees on the loggia will only be beneficial. If you use backlighting, you don’t need to shine it 24 hours a day; 16 hours is enough. By providing petunias with changes in temperature and lighting, we bring it as close as possible to natural conditions.

Step three - pinching

Contrary to popular belief among amateur gardeners, not all petunia needs to be pinched. The vast majority of hybrids have good branching even without this procedure. The photo below is an example of a petunia bush that does not need pinching; it grows in the desired shape without it:

But it also happens that petunia, as we say, “goes into the stick.” This may depend on the growing conditions (poor lighting, too warm in the room, crowded conditions) or on the variety. There are varieties that require the formation of a bush, for example: Superbissima, Avalanche, Double Cascade series of terry petunia, Dot Star - new this season, and some others. In the photo below is a petunia that has gone into the stick and needs pinching:

In any case, during the process of growing seedlings, you need to monitor the growth pattern of petunia so that, if necessary, pinching is done in a timely manner. If we ignore pinching on such bushes, we will not get any beauty and splendor.

Unfortunately, not all gardeners can provide ideal conditions for the growth and development of petunias. It is usually grown on windowsills, where, of course, conditions are far from ideal. As a result, the bushes often turn out weak and elongated, growing into one stem. This is where pruning comes in! We cut, sparingly, above the second or third pair of leaves and literally in a few days you will see new shoots emerging from the axils. And after a couple of weeks, this bush will grow with new growth, become strong and fluffy.

I am not a fan of repeatedly pinching petunias. Yes, of course, there are variety series that need to constantly form a bush, for example, the series of double petunias Double Cascade, Superbissima or Dot Star. But, again, the vast majority of hybrids do not need this! By pinching every two weeks, as some authors advise, you will, of course, get dense growth, but you risk not seeing flowering, because each pinching delays its timing.

In general, monitor the condition of your petunias, they themselves will tell you what to do: pinch, cut or leave them alone. The shoots have stretched out - we cut them, leaving 3-4 internodes from the base of the cut branch. We need to get more new growth - we pinch the ends of the shoots. I practically never pinch or trim bush petunias; in ampelous and cascading petunias, I cut off the central shoot at seedling age and usually limit myself to this. In the future, pinching or trimming only as necessary.

You can also get a lush bush and abundant flowering with the help of special preparations. I use Floron, a targeted biostimulator with amino acids. It works as an inhibitor, inhibits upward growth of vegetative mass, reduces the length of internodes, stimulates the growth of lateral shoots, provokes and enhances flowering. It belongs to the group of professional agrochemicals, so you are unlikely to find it in regular stores, but you can purchase it in online stores without any problems. It must be used strictly according to the instructions, taking into account the period of plant development and avoiding overdose.

And please remember: it all depends on the variety! No amount of repeated pinching or pruning will help to get a flowering ball from a bush petunia, which can easily be obtained from an ampelous or cascading petunia! When growing, focus on the varietal characteristics and do not torture your petunias with constant manipulations with haircuts and pinching. Everything should be in moderation!

Step four

We use the following order: roots-greens-blooms. This is the only way, otherwise the sum may change if the terms are changed. First, the seedlings must develop a good root system, then green mass, and only after that we allow it to bloom. Flowering on weak roots and on underdeveloped bushes is destructive for petunia. Therefore, we mercilessly remove the buds if the bush has not gained enough healthy green mass. Here is an example of flowering on underdeveloped bushes:

As you can see in the photo, the petunia grew in a small volume, the roots did not have enough freedom and nutrition for development, and accordingly the plant was unable to form a full-fledged bush. Development stopped there. To grow these bushes, you need to remove all the flowers and buds, trim the roots, replant a larger volume, and be sure to feed them with fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and nitrogen.

Step five - volume of pots and flowerpots

I know that this question worries many gardeners, especially beginners. There is a lot of information on this topic on the Internet, but it is very contradictory and it is easy to get confused. But in fact, everything is not so difficult if you understand the basic points.

I don’t know where the statement came from that the volume of soil for normal development of petunia should be at least 5 liters per plant. Apparently, someone wrote it somewhere, and others picked it up. Based on my own many years of experience, I can say that the axiom of 5 liters is very, very approximate.

Why? But because the volume of soil for one petunia seedling depends on several components, and these are: variety, climatic conditions and feeding characteristics.

But first things first.

The variety of petunia is the main determining factor for the size of the planting capacity. Bush varieties are less demanding on the amount of substrate in the pot, while ampelous and cascading varieties are more finicky: in order for them to show all their capabilities, it is necessary to take care of spacious containers.

5 liters is the required minimum for SOME varieties of ampelous and cascading petunias! But, I repeat, this is the MINIMUM! For example, a series of ampelous and semi-ampeloid petunias Capella, Bonnie, Peppy, Potunia, Svetunia, Sweetsunshine can grow and bloom well all season long in a 5-liter pot without any problems. What cannot be said about other variety series: Tidal wave, surfinia, Blanket, Cascadias, Explorer, Velvet, and many others. For them, the minimum volume of soil should start at 10-15 liters.

My ampelous and cascading petunias grow in this volume.

As for bush varieties of petunias, everything is ambiguous here too. Genetically dwarf varieties such as Limbo, Espresso Grande, Duvet, Picobella, Fantasy, which are not distinguished by strong growth, can be safely planted one at a time in 2-3-liter pots, where they will feel great. For taller variety series, such as Sophistika, Prism, Supercascade, Falcon, you should choose larger pots - 4-5 liters per plant. The same volume is relevant for all varieties of terry petunia.

Bush petunia Picobella Carmine alone in a 3-liter pot

In a word, focus on the size of the above-ground part; usually it is equal to the size of the root system.

The climatic conditions in our huge country are different. For those who grow petunia in the southern regions, where hot summers last for almost six months, it is advisable to plant it in a larger pot than the stated minimum. This will protect the roots from overheating, and the soil will not dry out too quickly. In addition, the growing season is quite long, and all this time petunias need to grow and develop.

In the northern regions, in conditions of short and cool summers, on the contrary, you can give petunia a minimum volume, because The growing season is much shorter than in the south, and, accordingly, it may not have time to master too much capacity.

Features of fertilizing also play an important role in choosing a planting container. If you feed correctly, often and regularly, then even vigorous varieties in a small volume of soil can grow well throughout the season without losing their decorative properties. Of course, they will not show all their power in such conditions, but, nevertheless, they will delight you with beautiful flowering. As an example, the photo below shows Blanket Rose Star petunia.

The variety is genetically very powerful; the minimum volume of soil for it is 10 liters. This petunia grew for me all summer in a 7-liter pot, even without a rejuvenating haircut. Fertilizers: Bazacot Plus for 6 months when planting in the ground and plus weekly foliar feeding alternating: once a week Plantafol with formula 5.15.45 or Potassium Monophosphate. A week later, under the root of Kristalon flower.

Therefore, dear gardeners, if you are too lazy to feed your petunia regularly, then plant it in a larger pot. Or add a long-acting fertilizer such as Osmokot or Bazakot to the soil when planting, it will do everything for you.

There is no need to go crazy in the spring looking for huge containers to plant a couple of bush petunias; in the photo below, two Fantasy Red bush petunias feel great in a 5-liter pot.

So, as you can see, everything is very individual, and the axiom that petunias need at least 5 liters of soil per plant is nothing more than a widespread myth.

Everything comes with experience, so don’t be afraid to experiment based on your own conditions and the varieties you grow.

Remember! When planting in a permanent place, you should take into account the optimal volume of the pot: for bush petunia this is 3 liters per plant. When planting in open ground, the distance between bushes should be at least 20 cm.

Step six - removing the seed pods

I think all flower growers already know that wilted petunia flowers need to be removed along with the seed pods so that the plant does not waste energy setting seeds, but allows them to bloom.

Step seven - regular feeding

Petunia simply loves to “eat” well. If you feed her weekly during the growing season, she will certainly thank you.

When laying buds and during flowering: Spray the leaves with potassium monophosphate. Please note: we spray it, and not pour it under the root, this way the fertilizer is absorbed much better. We dilute at the rate of 1 level teaspoon per bucket of water. We carry out the procedure once every 5-7 days. At this stage, between spraying with potassium monophosphate, you can give Kristalon flower under the root.

After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, we continue feeding: once a week, be sure to use potassium monophosphate on a leaf, after a few days, Kristalon (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), Fertika or Agricola at the root. Thus, we produce 2 feedings every week.

It is advisable to fertilize petunia growing in pots with each watering, but the dosage should be reduced by at least half.

Here is a simple procedure for applying fertilizers for good growth, development and abundant flowering of petunias. It is very important to follow the sequence of feeding. In no case should you give nitrogen if the root system is undeveloped, as you can end up with vigorous growth of green mass to the detriment of root development. Such a plant will be weak and may die over time. Potassium should not be given to undeveloped plants to avoid premature flowering. This can also lead to disastrous consequences. Each fertilizer has its time!

Therefore, let's not experiment with homemade fertilizers, the chemical composition of which we do not know. After all, flowers are not vegetables, we don’t eat them, and the chemicals here are unlikely to harm anyone.

This set of measures will allow you to unleash all the capabilities of petunia and enjoy its abundant and long-lasting flowering.

Brief characteristics of petunia

Petunia is an annual plant of the nightshade family. Homeland - South America. At the beginning of the 19th century. she came to Europe. Petunia hybrids appeared about a hundred years ago. The bush is creeping or erect, 20-70 cm high. The shape of the flower resembles the bell of a gramophone. The lower part is represented by a long tube, inside of which the stamens are located. The gramophone expands at the top, forming a bell of five identical petals. The flowers are funnel-shaped, simple and double with a wavy or fringed edge, of various colors, sometimes with a delicate aroma. The plant began to be cultivated at the dawn of the 17th century, and since that time, breeders have developed many hybrid varieties.

Typically, petunias are grown from scratch each year by sowing seeds. However, you can keep the plant indoors during the winter months and take it outdoors as the weather warms up.

Terry species are popular. The incredible popularity of exotic is associated with the abundance of corolla colors. The palette includes all shades of the color spectrum, an incredible combination of colors. Imagination took breeders far; they gave gardeners stunning cultivars with a contrasting pharynx, veins on the petals, edges, a star pattern, and a scattering of specks.

How to feed petunia seedlings after germination, before and after picking: advice from gardeners

Until the picking procedure has been carried out, petunia does not need feeding. All the necessary nutrients are already in the soil and seeds. After all, plants should be planted in soil intended for flowers. But some gardeners are convinced that a month after germination, a small amount of phosphorus fertilizers should be applied. They will enhance the formation and growth of the root system.
Feeding petunias is very important after picking. This process is very important and is stressful for the plant. Therefore, during this period it is necessary to apply phosphorus fertilizers, which will relieve stress and improve root development. When the root system is formed, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers can be applied. The ideal phosphorus fertilizer is superphosphate . To properly prepare the solution, read the instructions for the drug.

Shoots

After picking, when the seedlings take root in the new container, proceed to the next feeding. It should be carried out when several pairs of leaves appear on the plant. This is done literally 1-2 weeks after the pick. This time you can use potassium and nitrogen fertilizers purchased at a specialty store.

Why feed petunia

Feeding petunias is necessary for increasing green mass, developing the root system, and flowering. Thanks to the nutritional components, the flower grows beautiful and is decorative. If you neglect fertilizers, petunia develops poorly and often gets sick.

Attention! Fertilizing is not a panacea. They will not bring any benefit if you do not follow other rules for caring for petunia: watering, loosening the soil, protecting from diseases and pests. Only a set of measures will help to grow a healthy and beautiful flower.

Brief description of petunias

An herbaceous or semi-shrub, often ampelous flower - petunia (Latin Petunia) belongs to the Solanaceae family (Latin Solanaceae). Most often this plant is short-growing, up to 20 cm high, but there are also taller varieties (up to 70 cm). Large flowers (up to 15 cm in diameter) on short pedicels are simple and double. After pollination, numerous small seeds ripen in the capsules.

Terry petunias

Why do you need to fertilize?

Feeding petunias for flowering is required throughout the entire growing season. The peculiarity of the plant is that new buds bloom almost daily. This requires a high consumption of nutrients.

Note! Without regular fertilizing, the soil, especially in the limited space of a flowerpot or flowerpot, becomes depleted.

What happens if you don’t fertilize or do it beyond the norm?

Incorrect application of fertilizer can have negative consequences for the plant. If fertilizing is applied in excess, it will cause burns to the root system. In the most severe case, the flower will die.

Petunia withers without fertilizers

Lack of fertilizing will result in a reduction in the number of blooming buds. Some very hardy varieties can do without fertilizers, but then their flowers will be smaller than their usual size, and the number will be less than expected.

Features of feeding during the dormant period (winter)

Preserving an expensive or especially favorite variety for the winter is within the capabilities of every gardener. There are two ways to complete this task:

Move the pot with the plant to a brightly lit room (daylight duration is at least 6 hours) with an air temperature in the range of +5-15 degrees. Here the petunia will safely wait until spring, slowing down its growth several times. During this period, the pots are watered no more than 2 times a month. Feeding is applied only at the end of February after a significant increase in daylight hours.
Place the pots with petunias in a warm room with bright artificial lighting (daylight hours are 10 hours or more). Air temperature in the range of +18-25. With this maintenance, the plant will continue to actively grow and will need less feeding than in summer. The usual dosages of fertilizers are halved until March.

Blooming petunias on the windowsill

Making any variety of petunia bloom in a flowerbed or in a hanging flowerpot is not difficult. To do this, the plant needs warmth, loose, fertile soil and a lot of sunlight. Fertilizing with various fertilizers helps to achieve long and lush flowering: complex, mineral, organic.

Foliar feeding

It is very useful at home to alternate fertilizing by watering the seedlings at the root with spraying the plants on the leaves. Spraying with a solution of vitamin B1 or B12 has a very good effect on the growth and future flowering of petunia. Ampoules with the vitamin are freely sold in pharmacies; the drug is diluted in a ratio of 1 to 10 and sprayed on petunia leaves every 10 days.

Spraying with green Crystal (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) during the bud setting phase is necessary for petunia to bloom well.

It is recommended to spray plants in cloudy weather or in the evening to avoid petunia getting sunburned through droplets of moisture on the leaves.

Many gardeners advise spraying young plants once with a solution of boric acid, at a dose of 1 g of the drug per 1 liter of water. Petunia responds very well to this feeding.

When to fertilize petunia

A decorative flower is fed in several ways, which depend on the level of its development and the objectives of this procedure:

Feeding seeds with succinic acid before transplanting seedlings. It helps petunia to grow actively, survive dry summers and cope with various ailments.
Fertilizing the soil before planting seedlings. The purpose of the procedure is to place the plant in a useful environment. Before planting seeds in it, the ground is also fertilized with a weak concentration of potassium permanganate solution or fungicides.
Fertilization of seedlings and developed specimens. This is done 14 days after the formation of the first leaves. Fertilizers are applied every other day between watering the flowers. In the first feeding, nitrogen and phosphate compounds are used.
Foliar fertilizer with a special mixture for spraying. The result of such feeding will be of better quality together with the root method.

Attention! It doesn’t matter where the flower grows: in a pot at home or in a wide flower bed, without constant feeding it will not be able to survive for long

Feeding during flowering

During the flowering period, petunia must be fed, whether it grows in the garden or in a pot at home. Fertilizers need to be applied every five days. You can create your own chart based on the appearance of the flower. If it quickly absorbs nutrients, then you can carry out the procedure daily, preparing a weak solution of fertilizers. During flowering, petunia needs potassium and phosphorus. They will not only make it brighter, but also extend the colorful period.

Important! It is recommended to water the plant at the root with a humate solution weekly.

Types of fertilizing

There is another classification of fertilizers: liquid, dry and long-lasting. Let us consider each type in detail below.

Liquid fertilizers

Liquid fertilizers are popular when growing decorative flowers in the country and in the apartment. They are sold in the form of concentrated solutions, which must first be diluted with water, following the instructions.

Remember that an excess of nutrients leads to slower growth and the emergence of bacteria and microbes.

For petunia use:

"Bona Forte" contains basic macroelements, microelements and humic acids, with the help of which the plant receives nutrition gradually. To prepare root feeding, dilute 10 ml of the substance in 1.5 liters of water, and dilute 5 ml of the substance in 1.5 liters of water for foliar feeding. Bona Forte is not afraid of freezing and can be stored for two weeks after preparation. Increases disease resistance and is responsible for lush flowering.
"Uniflor Bud" - a fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium - stimulates the maturation of buds and flowers, suitable for feeding garden and indoor plants. Sold in garden stores. To prepare the working solution, 1 liter of water and 3 ml of the drug are required. The frequency of feeding is once every 10-15 days. To avoid burning the plant, the concentration of the solution should be no more than 1%.

Dry

Dry fertilizers are used less often than liquid ones, but if you follow the instructions, they give quick results. For petunia, purchase the drug "Plantafol". It contains a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium complex, as well as boron, zinc, copper, iron, sulfur and manganese. Sold as a white dry powder that is dissolved in water.

"Plantafol" improves carbohydrate metabolism, ripening processes, and flower resistance to drought and frost. The fertilizer is not washed out by water and is harmless to the environment. To prepare the working solution, 10 liters of water and 25 g of active substance are required.

Attention! Before adding the solution, water the petunia generously with warm water. Moisture improves nutrient absorption. If you fertilize a flower without watering, chemical burns of the roots and stem are possible.

Long-lasting

Long-lasting fertilizers are those that are applied to the soil before planting. When in contact with water, they instantly dissolve and nourish the earth with minerals that young plants need. Some people mistakenly believe that once they have used a long-lasting drug, they do not need to feed petunia in the future. The problem of oversaturation of the soil also arises, for example, when potassium is added to the soil, which is already enough. Due to an overabundance, the flower may die, so long-lasting fertilizers are treated with caution.

Flower growers use Ethisso fertilizer. The complex of substances is easily absorbed by the plant and ensures long flowering. "Etisso" is sold in the form of granules, suitable for garden, indoor, and balcony crops. Light gray granules act from the first day of application; under the influence of moisture and heat, they “give” nutrients to the soil. "Etisso" contains nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, zinc, manganese.

Features of container petunia

Flowers that are kept in a container for the entire period need to frequently loosen the soil to ensure oxygen access to the roots. To prevent the plants from being damaged by the fungus, they support the immune system with mineral supplements and solutions of microelements, which are sold in flower shops.

When exposed to direct sunlight, the plant may stop blooming profusely. If petunia is not watered regularly, it will begin to conserve energy by retaining nutrients in the shoots and roots. As a result, it will stop expelling new inflorescences. Nutritious watering or spraying in the evening, when the sun has completely set, will be useful.

To reduce the impact of ultraviolet radiation on flowers, you can move them to a less lit place. To maintain moisture, some professional gardeners use hydrogel, which is first soaked in water with fertilizers, then mixed with soil.

Important! Petunias love large spaces. Experienced gardeners recommend planting it in large 50 liter containers