Rules for growing and caring for columnar peaches

Characteristics of columnar peach

Seedlings of columnar varieties of peach are compact plants; the height of such an actually mature tree does not exceed 1.5 m. The crown, unlike spreading varieties, is elongated and cylindrical. Its width is up to 60 cm, more often 40-50 cm. Planting a columnar peach and caring for it may differ slightly, but this is due to varietal characteristics.

Such seedlings are often planted to decorate the local area, since during flowering periods the tree is densely covered with flowers, and at the stage of fruit ripening such plants look beautiful and original. The lateral branches of such varieties do not grow large, and the fruits hang close to the trunk. The weight of each of them is over 200 g. The fruits are juicy, with dense pulp. They contain a large amount of vitamins and other elements beneficial to the body. Also, such seedlings have other positive aspects:

• the plant is not fussy to care for;
• high taste characteristics of fruits;
• increased resistance to disease;
• improving resistance to the influence of adverse external factors;
• high yields.

The main advantage of columnar fruit trees, including peach, is its compactness and, accordingly, the ease of choosing a place to plant it. Also, with the right care tactics, the plant is extremely frost-resistant and can survive temperature drops down to -40˚ C. But there are also disadvantages - they charge a high price for columnar peach seedlings, and the lifespan of such a tree is relatively short, and due to the unusual shape and reduced crown volume (side shoots that bear fruit) the yield is low. The table shows popular varieties that do not require special attention from the gardener and show high yield values.

On a note!

With proper care of a columnar peach, it is possible to harvest up to 6 kg of fruit from one plant; the volume of the harvest also depends on the varietal characteristics.

Peaches planting scheme

As the tree grows, it forms a spreading crown. If you plan to plant one seedling, it should be placed no closer than 2 m to the walls of a building, fence or other tall fruit crops. As a rule, this distance is enough to form a developed crown in most varieties of peaches, and the free space will allow for easy fruit picking and spraying.

When gardeners plan to plant a group of seedlings, they take into account their mutual influence on each other when they grow, as well as interaction with neighboring buildings or other trees. As with a single planting, 2 m are retreated from existing barriers. Between neighboring trees, gaps of 2.5 to 4 m are made. The distance at which peach is planted depends on the usable area of ​​the site, but in any case, it is better to place the plants further away - when over a long distance, the crowns of peaches will form spreading and will not shade neighboring crops. If seedlings are “dig in” in several rows, then a gap of about 5 m is left between them.

Features of cultivation

It is possible to grow a good columnar peach tree if you follow agrotechnical standards. First, they select a place for planting in advance, prepare the soil, maintaining its moisture, and perform preventive treatment against diseases and pests. The seedling will bear 6-10 kg of fruit and will be resistant to negative factors only with careful care.

The timing of tree planting depends on climatic conditions. Columnar peach is planted in the fall only in the southern regions; in the northern regions, the procedure is performed in the spring season. The plant quickly adapts to new conditions and by autumn it will no longer be susceptible to winter temperature drops. It is recommended to choose annual plants for planting, but trees older than 3 years are not recommended. They have a reduced survival rate.

A site for peach is chosen with good lighting - the place must be sunny. This will help the plant take root well and develop correctly. Extraneous vegetation and debris are removed from the ground. The area for planting is dug up and its saturation with useful components is increased by introducing rotted manure or humus. Site preparation is carried out in the fall - with the planned planting in the spring and vice versa.

Under the fruit tree, dig a planting hole to a depth of about 70 cm. When planting several plants at once, there must be a distance of 50-70 cm between plants. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the hole - crushed stone is poured, the thickness of its layer is about 10 cm. Soil is added on top of the drainage, which mixed with compost. For the seedling, a support is inserted into the hole, to which the plant will then be tied. The young tree is placed in the center of the planting site. The roots are straightened so that they are not twisted. The remaining space is covered with soil. In the case of autumn planting, the young peach is additionally covered with burlap.

Attention!

The selected area for planting peach should not be in a lowland, as this leads to constant accumulation of moisture, waterlogging of the soil and provokes rotting of the root system of the fruit tree.

Choosing a place to plant on the site

The heat-loving crop should be planted on the sunny side, protected from strong winds. If there is a lack of light, the plant develops poorly, its crown is formed incorrectly or stretches to one side, and the fruits grow smaller or have a weakly expressed taste. In addition to choosing the location of the seedlings, based on the impact of external factors on the crown, the influence of the soil on the root system is taken into account. Peach should not be planted in wet ground.

It is better to plant peaches or nectarines near the south wall of the building or near the fence. The place should be illuminated as much as possible by the sun, without mature trees with a spreading crown. The wall will provide additional protection from strong winds, and its surface will reflect heat, warming the plants from all sides. If the site has uneven surfaces, seedlings are placed on a southern slope or on a hill. Under no circumstances should you plant in lowlands: there is a high risk of flooding, it is colder, and there is not enough sunlight.

Rules of care

The survival rate of a columnar seedling depends on the degree of proper care for it during the adaptation period and after it. The tree must be periodically pruned on time, protected from frost, and ensure proper watering and timely fertilizing. Also, such a peach tree needs to prevent diseases and pests. Fertilizing is applied in spring, summer and autumn. In the spring season this should be a nitrogen composition, in the summer - complex mineral preparations, and in the autumn - compost or humus. The concentration, frequency and exact timing of fertilizing depend on the varietal characteristics of the columnar peach.

Watering is carried out as the top soil layer dries. About 10-20 liters of water are poured under each specimen. They pour not under the trunk, but a little to the side - into the annular furrows made around the peach tree. During periods of drought, it is watered once every 7 days. When there is enough precipitation, additionally moisten once a month or less. Subsequent care is not difficult, periodically throughout the year - 2-3 times, the plant is treated against harmful insects and diseases. Pruning of columnar peach is done according to the pattern and in accordance with the condition of the plant. They also periodically loosen the soil and mulch it before the ground. It is advisable to cover this fruit tree for the winter.

Features of caring for columnar varieties of fruit crops

Columnar varieties of all types of fruit crops practically do not form lateral skeletal branches, which means they do not require careful crop-forming pruning. The entire harvest is located on the shortened fruits of the main trunk.

Some varieties have short lateral branches on the central trunk, located at an angle of approximately 30 degrees relative to the central trunk. During increased growth, they are shortened to 5-8 cm, and those growing at a right angle are cut off (mercilessly).

In the first years, the tops of columnar crops freeze. The young shoot does not have time to mature. To prevent this from happening, in the first 3-4 years the top is wrapped for the winter with insulating material (not film) in the form of a cap made of several layers of burlap or thick paper tied with a rope (so as not to be blown away by the wind). In the spring, the cap is removed so that the top does not rot and become moldy.

If, nevertheless, the top is frozen, it is cut off, leaving 1-2 side shoots with vertical growth, which will become a continuation of the central trunk.

To protect the young root system from freezing (a temperature on the soil surface of -10...-15 °C is dangerous for it), for the winter, cover the soil around the trunk with spruce branches, sawdust, high-moor peat or other natural material (straw is not allowed) that does not accumulate moisture. When snow falls, it is also raked under the trunk as additional protection.

Columnar cherry.

Why do you need to trim a peach?

Despite the fact that the appearance of a columnar peach does not create the feeling of the need for pruning, it is a mandatory procedure and is needed by the fruit tree not only to maintain the compactness of the crown. Sanitary pruning, carried out according to the scheme, maintains the health of the plant. They rid the tree of old branches that are already sick, weak and only detract from the strength of the plant.

Pruning is one of the ways to prevent diseases. Although columnar varieties have increased resistance to them, such a precaution is not superfluous. It is the key to maintaining intensive fruiting, since the tree gets rid of those shoots that simply drain the strength of the peach, but do not produce fruit. The main thing is not to cause harm, so the procedure is performed strictly according to the rules.

Attention!

Regular “debranching operations,” as gardeners call the procedure, extend the life of a fruit-bearing plant.

What tools are needed?

To perform proper and high-quality pruning without damaging the peach, you need to prepare the necessary tools for manipulation in advance. Every gardener should have such a set. Peach pruning requires a sharp tool, as only the degree of sharpening will prevent unplanned damage to the peach tree. Injuries caused to a plant by a dull instrument in the future act as a favorable environment for the development of fungi, pests and microbes. For manipulation you will need:

• hacksaw for wood, blade – thin;
• pruning shears with extended handles;
• garden knife;
• paint brush.

Before starting the manipulation, the entire instrument is disinfected. You also need to prepare a garden varnish, which is used to treat the cut sites after the procedure is completed. It is recommended to carry out pruning in a protective suit. It is advisable that the gardener wear trousers and a jacket made of thick material. Protect your hands with gloves, and protect your eyes from chips, small pieces of bark, branches and twigs with special glasses.

Types of pruning

There are several types of peach tree pruning; gardeners name them based on the purpose of the manipulation. The first type is for forming the crown of a young plant. The second type is for removing diseased and old shoots that act as potential sources of tree infection. And the third variety is rejuvenating and restorative pruning, which increases the intensity of fruiting. But gardening publications classify types of pruning a little differently:

1. Formative - performed in spring and autumn, remove excess shoots and create the skeletal base of the peach tree.
2. Regulating – carried out in any season to balance fruiting and growth. Remove branches that pull the plant's forces onto themselves (“fattening”) and those on which there are too many fruit ovaries.
3. Rejuvenating - done in the spring, for a long-planted specimen, branches that no longer bear fruit are removed, and a new “skeleton” of the tree is formed.
4. Restorative - carried out in the spring and autumn seasons, it is required when the plant is damaged by pests, diseases and in case of drying out of the branches. Skeletal shoots remove everything and begin to form a crown in a new way.

All cut shoots are burned, this is especially important in the case of removing branches with signs of disease. The peach tree is quite capricious in terms of pruning - it needs the excess growth to be removed. But, in the case of a procedure carried out too intensively, the plant will begin to hurt. Therefore, before they begin to remove branches, it is necessary to determine the degree of feasibility of the manipulation, since too drastic pruning will lead to a slowdown in the restoration of the fruit tree.

On a note!

It is recommended to cut off all the buds in the first year of flowering so that the plant can get stronger and grow a little more.

What time do you prune a peach?

There are several pruning dates according to the calendar, which are determined by seasonal weather changes. The manipulation is performed in the spring, this procedure is for the formation of the correct crown. This is done after the snow has melted and the soil in the garden has dried, when the air temperature reaches a stable +5˚ C. Depending on the region, this temperature is observed in March or April.

It is believed that the signal for the end of the right time for pruning is the blossoming buds. If you carry out the manipulation further, without focusing on this, you can ruin the peach, since a large volume of nutritious juice will be lost through fresh damage. There are two main points that affect pruning. The first is to remove all the young shoots that are not able to support the weight of the fruit. And secondly, thin branches interfere with the peach tree in winter, as they freeze out and because of this they are removed in the spring. The main advantages of pruning in the spring season:

• strengthening the “skeleton” of the tree;
• plant rejuvenation;
• increasing productivity;
• along with the removed shoots, the larvae and pupae of pests are also removed;
• the crown will become evenly illuminated, which will not slow down the fruiting of the lower branches.

There is summer pruning, which begins after a seed appears in the middle of the fruit. It is called sanitary because during this season shoots that dry out are cut off. The cutting areas will have time to “live out” until winter. After the manipulation is completed, the nutrients will be distributed differently and will go to those branches on which the fruits ripen, which improves the quality of the fruits. But many gardeners do not like to prune in the summer - the branches are poorly visible due to the foliage. However, summer pruning is mandatory as it helps normalize the harvest.

In autumn, manipulation is carried out only in areas where the climate is quite mild - coastal and southern regions. In areas with a harsher climate, the plant will not have time to heal its wounds before winter and may freeze out. Autumn pruning is the preparation of a fruit tree for wintering; during it, all shoots are pruned. Healthy and thick ones are shortened a little, but thin or fragile ones (which can easily break) must be cut off completely. Also remove those shoots whose bark is damaged by pests.

Attention!

All pruned shoots, especially those with bark damaged by harmful insects, are burned. Most likely, they contain eggs, larvae, or direct pests that have hidden from frost under the bark and are preparing to spend the winter there.

Pruning by year

The rules depend on the age of the peach tree. The primary pruning of a columnar plant is done according to the scheme, removing the topmost shoot and a couple more branches with the same angle relative to the trunk. They are shortened by approximately 5-10 cm on the side of the outer buds. In the next year of life, they look at the inclination of skeletal shoots. Increments are shortened by ¼ or a third of the total length. The apical and lower powerful branches are cut out, and the lateral ones are thinned out. Other shoots are cut into 2 buds.

The third pruning is carried out another year. On the apical skeletal shoot, they look for a pair of the strongest branches and shorten them by a third. Also, strong growths are removed from the skeletal branches, from the lower and upper sides. Annuals are shortened by a couple of buds, which helps to form a fruiting link - a branch that will support the weight of the fruit; only these ones are left with fruit ovaries. The shoots that were shortened by several buds last year are cut off “for fruiting” (the weak part is removed, which cannot withstand the weight of the fruit). The lower branches are removed into several buds; during subsequent pruning, after a year, they are formed into fruiting links.

This 4th pruning is performed on the branches of the 2nd level skeleton branches, where a pair of 3rd order “forks” are found. They are shortened by a third of the starting length. Fruit links are formed at level 2. New growth on the 3rd order is made less dense by shortening the shoots by several buds. The rest are used as non-permanent fruit links. All parts of the tree that are present on the fruit links of level 1 are cut off. The branches shortened last time from the lower growth are removed for a pair of buds, which are located below. To activate fruiting on the top growth, 8 groups of buds are removed.

What is a columnar peach?

Column peach is an ornamental tree that fits perfectly into the landscape of any garden, produces a good harvest and does not require much attention - these bonuses primarily attract gardeners. Well, gardening luminaries need such a culture for the sake of exoticism and diversity. In fact, the columnar peach is a short tree - no more than 1.4–1.6 m, forming a crown in the form of a cylinder or column.

But there is one thing: columnar fruit trees are currently officially represented only in one crop - the apple tree, as experts in this field say with full responsibility. The apple tree forms a column due to its small branching; the fruits on columnar apple trees are set directly on the trunk.

In 1964, an apple tree was found in Canada without side branches, but with more fruits directly on the trunk. This feature of apple tree development was attributed to a mutation and attempts were made to propagate it, apparently quite successfully. And as before, this type of fruit formation occurs only on apple trees; the “trick” does not work with other fruit trees - already in the 3rd–4th year, seedlings with fruits on the trunks, if this is still achieved, turn into ordinary trees, the height of which exceeds 2 m, and fruit formation occurs only on well-developed long shoots of the second year. Even if it is possible to create a semblance of a “column” on a peach, plum, or cherry, it is only due to shortening the fruiting shoots. This achieves the effect of fruiting on the trunk - visual columnarity.

Video: the whole truth about the columnar peach

Columnar varieties of fruit trees are represented by low-growing cultivars, but they bear fruit abundantly - if we take into account the total area of ​​fruiting shoots, then 4–6 kg from one columnar tree will be quite a decent harvest. Plants with this type of crown are assessed primarily according to the following parameters:

What pitfalls await farmers who decide to grow columnar peaches:

But other shortcomings of this type of crop cannot be ruled out, the most obvious being that not a single amateur gardener has yet provided evidence of the stunning results of growing columnar peaches in practice for a long time. So far, you can only find offers in online stores to buy seedlings of such peach. But there are also no details on caring for such a tree, trends in fruiting over the next 3-5 years after planting, or evidence of the annual high yield of columnar peaches without effort.

It’s almost impossible to find real photos of columnar peaches with fruits, but there is a lot of Photoshop on the Internet - a reason to think about the truth about columnar peaches

It is believed that dwarf varieties of fruit trees were created for forcing in intensive gardens, where seedlings are replaced every 5–7 years. And columnarity, in particular on an apple tree, is achieved by purity, when, as a result of vegetative crossing, the internodes on the shoots are shortened. Sometimes the fruit buds are so close that when the crop ripens, a crowding effect is created - the fruits are located densely, as if along the trunk - on a low-growing tree with short pruning we see the effect of the fertility of a columnar crop.

Growing columnar peaches is not the best idea for those who want a high yield from the peach and are not inclined to plant new trees in the garden every 4-5 years. Moreover, most often it is a deception of Internet scammers, an outrage on the imagination of inexperienced gardeners. I agree that a columnar orchard from the “climbing strawberry” series can be planted, but the result is unpredictable - it is hardly possible to get a decent harvest from one peach tree trunk. But it’s easy to grow such a tree as an exotic tub crop to the surprise of guests and to admire the enchanting flowering of pink peach buds. I would rather classify the columnar peach not as a fruit tree, but as an ornamental shrub. And striving for high yields of columnar peaches is like trying to pick 3 buckets of barberries from a bush.

Care after pruning

After any pruning, you need to provide the peach tree with some care. He definitely requires such increased attention from the gardener, since the fruit tree is difficult to tolerate the manipulation of removing shoots, even when it really needs it. All cut areas must be treated with garden varnish, which will prevent the wood from drying out and will not allow harmful insects to get inside the trunk. Minor damage to the bark is treated with a strong pink solution of potassium permanganate. The entire fruit tree is sprayed with a special preparation for disinfection.

To make it easier for the peach to recover, the tree needs to be watered abundantly to improve its condition. An increase in water volumes is especially necessary in the summer season. Also, the fruit tree is fed with different types of fertilizers - depending on the season. Despite the traumatic nature of pruning and the peach’s poor perception of it at first, it really needs this manipulation to maintain health.

Reference!

Without care after pruning, the tree may dry out due to changes in the direction of sap flow, as well as the presence of untreated “wounds”.

Possible mistakes

When the procedure is performed in violation of the rules, this leads to serious consequences for the peach tree. Young specimens will react to improper pruning by slowing down their development and growth. Already fruit-bearing plants will have difficulty forming flowers and fruit ovaries, which leads to a decrease in yield. Mistakes that are often made not only by beginners, but also by experienced gardeners are as follows:

1. Excessive shortening of shoots - shifts the timing of the formation of flowers and fruit ovaries forward, greatly weakening the tree.
2. Skip or complete absence of trimmings - only small, tasteless fruits with a weak aroma will ripen. The tree will begin to thicken, age rapidly, and bear fruit irregularly.
3. Excessively early pruning of a young, recently planted specimen - pruning begins when the seedling is 2 years old.
4. Premature (before the recommended time for the season) shortening of branches - in the event of sudden frosts in the spring, the shoots will freeze.

The columnar peach is quite common, so there are ready-made instructions for growing it, which indicate the rules for planting and care. Also, there are many tips to help you plant a tree correctly by choosing a suitable place for it. This plant needs timely pruning, fertilizing, and watering. But such manipulations must be carried out correctly, since the peach reacts poorly to non-compliance. Therefore, when planting a columnar variety, it is advisable not only for beginners, but also for experienced ones to review the recommendations, as well as the rules on how to care for the plant.

The best varieties

Many gardeners dream of having in their garden not only columnar peaches, but also nectarines, characterized by no less interesting taste and unique appearance. We bring to your attention the most common varieties of dwarf peaches and nectarines in our latitudes.

This nectarine variety attracts attention with its early fruiting; the first harvest is harvested already in the second year after planting the seedling in its permanent place of growth. The average weight of a ripe fruit is 175 g

The taste of the fruits is very juicy and sweet, the pulp is easily separated from the seed. The Fantasy variety is distinguished by excellent frost resistance and has strong immunity to diseases such as leaf curl.

Due to its compact size and low maintenance requirements, the Souvenir peach is very popular among gardeners. The fruit crop, whose homeland is the sunny Crimea, has good yield indicators; the fruits ripen in the first half of August. The weight of the fruit ranges from 150 to 200 g. The thin peel has an attractive reddish blush, while the flesh is yellowish.

Golden Triumph

This early-ripening fruit variety is characterized by high frost resistance and stable immunity to various fungal diseases. Harvesting can be done as early as early July. A ripe fruit weighs about 260–280 g. With the right approach, about 10–12 kg of ripe peaches, which have an incredible taste and pleasant aroma, are collected from a mature tree.

Columnar Honey peach fully lives up to its name - the fruits are distinguished by amazing taste. The flesh has a pleasant yellowish tint and is similar to honey. The skin is colored a rich yellow color, with a reddish blush. The average weight of a Honey variety peach is 180 g.