Greenhouse treatment in AUTUMN - STEP-BY-STEP work plan (7 stages)

Treatment and disinfection of the greenhouse is an important step towards obtaining a good harvest. Capital greenhouses create excellent conditions for the wintering of harmful insects, bacteria, viruses and fungi. In the spring, they attack young plants, preventing them from getting stronger, which leads to partial or complete loss of the harvest.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter and the next season without harming beneficial insects and the structure itself? Read about it in our article.

Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall

Content

• Step 1. Cleaning up plant debris
• Step 2. Washing the walls of the greenhouse and equipment
• Step 3. Digging up the greenhouse in the fall
• Step 4. Improving soil composition
• 4.1. Adding compost/vermicompost/humus
• 4.2. Vermiculite
• 4.3. Deoxidation
• Step 5. Application of mineral fertilizers
• Step 6. Disinfection of the greenhouse in the fall
• 6.1. Disinfection of the internal walls of the greenhouse
• 6.2. Treatment of greenhouse soil against phytopathogens
• 5.3 Autumn pest control in the greenhouse
• Step 7. Sowing green manure
• As a conclusion

Processing a greenhouse in the fall is one of the important stages of agrotechnical work. During the season, a lot of effort was spent on fighting late blight, root rot and other fungal and bacterial infections, as well as various insect pests, including soil-dwelling pests. Autumn is the most successful and necessary time for all this work.

In this material we will consider a step-by-step work plan.

Greenhouse treatment in the fall includes:

• Step 1. Cleaning up plant debris;
• Step 2. Washing the walls of the greenhouse and equipment;
• Step 3. Digging (including soil replacement);
• Step 4. Improving the soil composition (adding vermicompost and deoxidation);
• Step 5. Application of mineral fertilizers;
• Step 6. Disinfection (internal walls of the greenhouse with copper-containing preparations, soil treatment against phytopathogenic microflora, soil treatment against soil-dwelling pests, use of smoke bombs, etc.);
• Step 7. Sowing green manure.

And so, in order:

How to properly prepare a greenhouse for wintering in the fall - useful tips

We have given detailed instructions on how and with what to wash a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall, but these measures are not enough to prepare for winter. It is also important to strengthen the structure, insulate it if necessary, and provide lighting.

If plants will be planted in the greenhouse for the winter in the fall, the foundation should be insulated with polystyrene foam boards, wooden panels, covered with film, and a mound of earth should be made. It is recommended to install a second layer of film, thin polycarbonate, inside. The air gap between the layers retains heat well.

The photo shows an example of insulating a structure in the fall

In regions with a harsh climate, you should consider heating the greenhouse in the fall: stove, electric, water. The easiest way to install ultraviolet heaters or fan heaters. For the full development of plants, do not forget to provide additional lighting; the set of lamps for lighting must completely duplicate the solar spectrum. To avoid damage to the greenhouse from heavy snow loads, vertical supports should be placed inside every 1.5-2 m.

Reviews

I usually collect a thin layer of soil from above and take it outside the site, and then sprinkle it with bleach. After this, I pour boiling water over the soil in the greenhouse several times, and wash the walls with Domestos. I do this treatment every year in the fall and am pleased with the result. There were no special outbreaks of morbidity. True, I still spray the plants for prevention.

That year, our greenhouse tomatoes were affected by cladosporiosis and there were a lot of whiteflies. I received advice from experienced people to use sulfur bombs for fumigation. It really helped. On some specimens, symptoms appeared towards the end of the season; I immediately pulled out the diseased plants, the harvest was saved, and other bushes did not get sick. I'll have to try additional spraying with copper sulfate this fall.

In the fall, we always treat the greenhouse with formaldehyde or bleach. Of course, such chemicals cannot be used for spring processing, but for autumn it is just right. We wash the walls and soil with formaldehyde, and then cover it with film for several hours. Dilute 500 ml of product per 10 liters of water. It is imperative to use special clothing and protect the respiratory tract with a respirator, the substance is toxic.

Garbage collection

The first stage of work is harvesting the tops.
Harvesting is carried out in early autumn, immediately after harvesting. Aboveground and underground parts of plants are removed, the pins are removed. The collected waste, ropes and wooden stakes are burned. They are not suitable for reuse as they contain a lot of bacteria.

If the tops are free of diseases and pests, they are sent to a compost pit. The furrows are cleared of debris, weeds are pulled out, and the flooring is repaired.

What pests and diseases can overwinter in a greenhouse?

Not all greenhouse inhabitants harm plants. Soil is a living organism; it contains billions of bacteria that constantly work to convert organic matter into chemical compounds that plants consume for growth and development. In addition, the soil is inhabited by worms and insects, and only some of them are dangerous to plants. Do we need to kill everyone outright using strong chemicals?

Recommendations for soil disinfection in a greenhouse

First, you need to figure out what pests and pathogens can survive the winter in a greenhouse and what conditions contribute to this.

Aphids are small insects that feed on plant sap. Aphid colonies can grow rapidly in greenhouse conditions, which leads to damage to young shoots and reduced yield. In addition, aphids secrete a sweetish sticky liquid, creating conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

Aphid

Aphids overwinter in greenhouses and greenhouses in the egg stage, hiding in weeds and unharvested plant debris. In the spring, larvae emerge from the eggs, which soon turn into an adult insect that can cause damage to young plants. In addition, ants hide aphids in their nests - they use this insect as a cash cow, feeding on sweet secretions, and even carry it around the garden in search of new “pastures”.

Ants carry aphids

To eliminate aphids in a greenhouse, it is necessary to carry out thorough pre-winter cleaning of weeds, dead shoots and plant tops. Experienced gardeners also recommend expelling ants from the greenhouse and destroying all anthills built in it.

The whitefly is a flying, sucking insect similar to a moth. Colonies of whiteflies settle on plants and suck the juice from them. The plant gradually withers and dies, the yield is significantly reduced. In a greenhouse, the whitefly can overwinter provided that the temperature does not drop below -5°C; in severe frosts, the pests freeze out.

Whitefly

In the middle zone, to combat whiteflies, it is enough to open the windows in the greenhouse for the winter so that the temperature is equal to the outside temperature. In more southern regions with mild winters, the greenhouse and top layer of soil should be treated with one of the systemic preparations, which will be discussed below.

Spider mites are quite a serious pest that can destroy all the vegetation in a greenhouse in a matter of days. It can be identified by small dots on the backs of leaves and thin, random webs on plants. Spider mites overwinter in crevices of the frame and base of the greenhouse and wood debris. Natural and chemical preparations help against spider mites, but they should be used only after thorough cleaning.

Spider mite

Slugs in greenhouses are also a nuisance to gardeners. The fight against them is also complicated by the fact that they are active only in the dark, so sometimes it is difficult to understand who is eating the shoots and fruits. Slug larvae overwinter in the ground, in the top layer of soil. You can kill them with boiling water or chemicals.

Slug

Nematodes are small parasitic worms that live in the stems, roots or leaves of various vegetable crops. The nematode is a real scourge of greenhouses; it is extremely difficult to remove. Nematodes overwinter in the ground, at a depth of up to 20 cm, or in galls - thickenings on the roots of plants. Stem and leaf nematodes can also overwinter in plant debris.

Nematode - damaged roots

To eliminate nematodes in the garden, crop rotation is most effective. In this case, plants of the same type are returned to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years. However, in a capital greenhouse this method is unacceptable. Replacing the soil also doesn’t help much, since removing soil to a depth of 20 cm is quite difficult.

To combat nematodes in industrial conditions, potent chemicals are used - systemic nematicides. They are extremely toxic to humans and kill all beneficial microflora in the soil, so they are used with caution in a home greenhouse.

Warming the soil to 50-60°C using hot water, as well as adding organic fertilizers and sugar can be beneficial. At the same time, saprophytes actively begin to multiply in the soil, attracting natural enemies of nematodes.

Strawberry nematode: photo of the pest

Another effective method is to plant plants that inhibit and repel nematodes. These include marigolds and watercress. These cold-resistant plants can be sown immediately after harvesting vegetable crops; in two to three months they will have time to thoroughly clean the soil.

Fungal diseases - late blight, cladosporiosis, fusarium, powdery mildew and various rots - appear in the greenhouse under unfavorable conditions and quickly affect the plants. It is difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to cope with them - most of the crop dies.

Phytophthora is a fungal disease of tomatoes.

Fungi are extremely resistant to external conditions and overwinter well indoors, settling on the soil, greenhouse walls and garden tools. To combat fungi, fungicides and copper-based preparations are used.

Viral and bacterial diseases can be introduced into the greenhouse with soil and planting material, and they are also carried by sucking insects. Therefore, the prevention of viral and bacterial diseases in a greenhouse comes down to cleaning, removing harmful insects and preventive treatment of soil and structures with antibacterial drugs.

Bacteriosis - cucumber disease

Disinfection of greenhouse structures

Wet cleaning implies not only the cleaning of contaminated upper surfaces, but also disinfection.

To do this, use a brush or sponge to clean all surfaces outside and inside, removing all dirt, soil, cobwebs, etc.

A soap solution using tar soap or shampoo is very effective. The solution is left on the surface for 10-15 minutes. This time is enough for fungi, spores and viruses to die.

Pour boiling water over metal surfaces, and treat wooden surfaces, containers, and garden tools with a 5%-10% solution of copper or iron sulfate.

Ready-made chemicals for greenhouse treatment

The list of chemicals is extremely wide, and most of them have a wide spectrum of action. When treating a greenhouse, it is better to choose products with a targeted effect that do not disturb the balance of microorganisms in the soil. Descriptions of the drugs are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Description of insecticides and fungicides for greenhouse treatment.

Note! When processing, you must strictly adhere to the dosage of the selected drug indicated on the packaging, and also follow all safety precautions!

What is this substance

Copper sulfate is a fungicidal drug used by gardeners to combat various diseases of vegetables and other plants. This product is also used for application to wooden structures as an antiseptic and dye.

CuSO₄∙5H₂O – this is the chemical formula of this drug, and it is mined in the form of a mineral. This inorganic substance is essentially copper sulfate, that is, a mixture of copper salt and sulfuric acid. Vitriol is an odorless product, it does not evaporate, it is very hygroscopic, and is mainly used only in interaction with water.

At the same time, it is transformed into crystalline hydrates, which already change their color to a turquoise hue. When exposed to air, water molecules evaporate and they disappear, and the drug loses its color.

It is important to know! Copper sulfate is less harmful in comparison with other disinfectants produced on the basis of highly organic elements.

In case of contact with the skin, it must be washed off with water, but it will not cause irritation to the skin. But if vitriol somehow gets into the human body, then you need to take immediate action:

• Using an enema, rinse the digestive tract with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• Drink a laxative;
• Use a diuretic;
• Induce vomiting.

In dry form, vitriol can cause burns to the mucous membranes.

For garden needs, copper sulfate is produced in small doses in the form of fine powder. It must be stored out of the reach of children and animals, in a closed container.

How to disinfect the soil?

In a greenhouse, soil is constantly and actively used, so residues of fungicides, insecticides, fertilizers and salts accumulate in it. As a result, after just a few years it becomes unsuitable for growing crops - it is now a breeding ground for pests and diseases. In this case, the soil will need to be replaced every few years.

It is necessary to remove a layer whose thickness is 25-30 cm. But before the procedure, you need to get rid of the mulch, if there is any.

If it is not possible to replace the soil in the greenhouse, it is necessary to resuscitate it. To do this, first of all, you need to disinfect the soil with biological products, which will not only destroy dangerous microorganisms, but also improve the health of the soil. Fitosporin-M is suitable for this purpose. They should be applied 14 days before the onset of autumn frosts to a depth of 5-10 cm. Repeat the procedure in the spring.

After this, add 40-50 kg of compost or rotted manure for each m2, and carry out a two-level digging. At the final stage, water the soil with preparations that will help accelerate the decomposition and humification of plant residues.

You can also disinfect greenhouse soil with chemicals, of which there are many and must be selected taking into account what diseases the plants in the structure suffered from. But when using such products you need to be careful and follow safety precautions.

Stage 4. Fumigation

Proper soil cultivation is not just washing the surface. This is why it is necessary to fumigate the greenhouse. To do this, use checkers of sulfur or cuttings of sulfur.

First, you need to tightly close the windows and doors and carefully caulk the holes. To achieve maximum effect, it is better to wet the structures.

Option #1. Cutting sulfur. It's easy to use. To treat the greenhouse, you should take cuttings of sulfur at the rate of 1 kg per 10 cubic meters of room. It is finely crushed and mixed with coal. The resulting mixture is scattered onto metal baking sheets. They are placed in containers like basins, which are filled to the middle with water. After this, you need to place the containers over the entire area of ​​​​the room and set fire to the sulfur.

Trademarks of sulfur preparations "Cherenkovaya"

Purified sulfur: piece and powder; cutting sulfur: pieces and powder

Dangerous! When burned, sulfur releases toxic substances that are hazardous to human health. Therefore, this fumigation is allowed only if the respiratory tract, eyesight, etc. are protected. If a gas mask is not available, you can use a respirator, but you must wear special glasses for protection. It is very important to protect your hands by wearing gloves.

Fumigating a greenhouse with sulfur is a dangerous procedure

Option #2. Sulfur checker. It is easy to calculate the amount of the drug: 60 g of checkers are used per cubic meter of room. They are laid out on sheets in the same way as the previous fumigation, after which they are placed around the area of ​​​​the room and lit.

Sulfur bomb "FAS"

Prices for sulfur smoke bombs

sulfur smoke bomb

Sulfur checker on a plate

Greenhouse manufacturers do not recommend this treatment. Combustion products can damage the metal structures of the greenhouse, so you need to carefully study the instructions, which will indicate whether this method of disinfection can be used. If such disinfection is allowed, but the metal frame is damaged, it is also better not to use sulfur.

Fumigation of a greenhouse with a sulfur bomb

The sulfur will smolder for about 5 days, so during this time it is better not to enter the greenhouse or open it. When the time is up, doors and windows should be opened and the room thoroughly ventilated. It is better to wash polycarbonate surfaces with pemoxol solution using a sprayer. After wiping, you need to spray the surfaces of the greenhouse with clean water from a hose.

Option #3. You can carry out wet disinfection. To do this, you need to prepare a bleach-lime solution, which is sprayed on all surfaces. Of course, before using the solution you should put on a protective suit and a respirator.

Lime bleach

Option number 4. A large number of summer residents prefer to do without sulfur, replacing it with Bordeaux mixture or other remedies against protozoa and insects. Such solutions are sprayed with a spray bottle over the surfaces of the polycarbonate structure.

Components of Bordeaux mixture

Preparation of Bordeaux mixture

Note! If the frame is made of metal, before fumigation with sulfur it must be treated with solid oil - this makes it possible to avoid corrosion.