When to replant strawberries in spring: timing, methods and step-by-step diagram

Why replant strawberries in the spring?

Three years after planting this crop, buds begin to appear on the plants, from which mustaches grow. Over time they become longer and longer, they dry out and freeze during frosts. This phenomenon leads to depletion of the main bush, in some cases it even stops blooming.

Without timely replanting, the fruits lose their appearance, the berries become smaller and the taste is significantly reduced. Further use of these plants is not advisable; the culture can only be helped by urgently transplanting young plants to a new location. You must not make mistakes during replanting, otherwise the plants will die.

In small garden plots, annual cultivation of strawberries is practiced; accordingly, the bushes are removed in the fall, and new plants are planted in their place in the spring. Using this technique it is possible for 1 sq. m to grow about 50 bushes.

We can highlight the main advantages of spring crop transplantation:

there is a lot of water in the ground, and the air has not had time to heat up much;
in two warm seasons the crop will have time to take root and will begin to produce a good harvest next year.

As for transplanting bushes in autumn, the main advantage is that the plants can also quickly take root, and due to frequent rains, strawberries do not need to be watered. In addition, replanting bushes in the spring means a large amount of time spent working in the garden.

Advantages of the procedure

The main advantages of spring crop transplantation:

During the winter you can purchase a sufficient amount of fertilizer and mulch;
there is a lot of free space in the garden, so you can choose a good and fertile place for this crop;
the soil is not yet overgrown with weeds, so you won’t need to spend a lot of time weeding;
the ground is sufficiently saturated with melt water, so when laying mulch, the moisture will not evaporate for a long time;
spring is the best time for planting plants, and it does not matter whether these are only young seedlings or already formed bushes;
the transplanted plants will strengthen well before winter.

Disadvantages of the procedure

In addition to the advantages of transplanting strawberries in the spring, this event also has a certain number of disadvantages:

The gardener will not get a big harvest this year - accordingly, almost a year of fruiting is lost;
when preparing the soil for transplanting strawberries in the spring, the ground begins to sag, so it is better to prepare the soil in the fall;
the possibility of bushes freezing due to return frosts;
the weather may be hot, as a result it will slow down the rooting process;
strawberries require increased attention from the gardener;
the price of strawberry seedlings in spring is more expensive than in autumn.

Proper planting of garden strawberries in August and autumn

Growing strawberries in the country has long become a tradition. The development of a new territory near the house usually begins with planning and distributing the best areas among favorite crops.

According to all the rules, strawberries are given the sunniest place . Even a light shade does not have a positive effect on the fruiting of garden large-fruited strawberries, or strawberries - as they are used to calling them.

When is it better to plant garden strawberries - in spring or autumn?

It may seem strange, but strawberries are an evergreen plant and do not have a dormant period . Growth continues under the snow, but not as quickly as in the spring.

Almost strawberries can be planted at any time of the year - the bush will not die.

It is permissible to reason this way in two cases:

it is urgently necessary to identify seedlings for the garden,
an opportunity arose to develop a new site.

Planted at the wrong time, strawberries are likely to survive. Perhaps it will even bloom and produce berries. But their quality and quantity will make you doubt either the planted variety or your talent as a gardener.

Their number is associated with the overall development of the bush, the condition of the roots and adequate nutrition in the second half of the year.

Strawberries planted in the spring will take full advantage of the supply of melt water and by August will form a powerful plant, but flower buds (even if there were any) will produce few berries. All the plant’s forces were aimed at acclimatization in a new place.

The positive thing is that a powerful Victoria bush with large leaves synthesizes a lot of nutrients over the summer. These sugars are not only deposited in the false stem (called “horns”), but also allow the plant to form fruit buds. In other words, you are laying the harvest for next year.

Strawberries can be planted at any time - in autumn or spring - the bush will take root and even produce berries

In the second half of summer, strawberries usually already have time to form tendrils with rosettes of new plants - high-quality planting material.

Usually, the first two rosettes are used to propagate the variety - they produce the strongest and most productive strawberry bushes. Outer rosettes can also be planted, but they are stunted in growth.

Such planting material is used only when there is a shortage of seedlings; they require more careful care and increased attention after transplantation.

Advantages and disadvantages of planting in August and autumn

Important advantages of planting garden strawberries in the fall:

availability of high-quality planting material,
usually at the end of summer some of the beds are cleared,
strawberry seedlings manage to take root well in their new location.

Autumn planting of berry bushes also has a drawback . Late summer in continental climates is usually a dry and hot period. In order for the planted plant to take root normally, it is necessary to control the situation.

Until new leaves clearly grow, the strawberry has not yet taken root. The entire period of time before this requires careful care (this is approximately two weeks):

watering (only deep, otherwise the roots will remain on the surface, and the bush will constantly suffer from a lack of water),
loosening the row spacing (it is necessary not only to conserve water, but also to deliver air oxygen to the growing roots).

Autumn planting of berry bushes has advantages over spring, but there are also disadvantages

Choosing a Good Growing Site

First of all, you need to prepare a bed to plant strawberries:

Considering that its root system penetrates a maximum of 20-25 centimeters, the area must be dug up using a shovel.
It is very important to remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds as much as possible.
If the area is damp, it is better to immediately organize “high beds” or at least plant on ridges.

These preparatory operations for planting a bed of strawberries will save you from “extra” work for at least two to three seasons.

It is best to plant strawberries in narrow strips oriented “south-north” - with this arrangement, the plants receive sunlight evenly throughout the day.

If your plot is located on a slope, then the rows should be placed only along the slope (no transverse rows - the first rainfall will wash away your plantings).

Bushes are best planted and replanted at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters . If the seedlings are weak, you can plant two seedlings in one hole.

Master class on planting strawberries (strawberries) in the fall:

How and where to plant seedlings: stages, timing and more

The most important thing is to plant the bushes so that they grow as quickly as possible. Then by winter they will have time not only to store up a supply of nutrients, but also to lay flower buds for the next season.

Nothing will work if the strawberry bush is planted too deep or, conversely, too high. Such bushes will lag significantly behind in development and, most likely, will not bloom.

Preparation of seedlings

Most often, purchased seedlings go a long way before they reach the garden bed. Before planting, it is necessary to revive them - put them in water to restore the condition of the roots.

You can add root formation stimulants to the water:

drugs such as heteroauxin, Kornevin, succinic acid,
a teaspoon of honey,
crushed aloe leaf.

For better survival, leave only 2-3 leaves on the bush . Here, the expression of pity is unjustified - through the surface of the leaf, the plant only loses water, which the roots are not yet able to supply to the bush.

These seedlings will take root with great problems and will be sick for a long time.

The roots should also not be too long . If you shorten them to 5-6 cm, they will even recover faster. Young roots contribute to the growth of the bush and its accelerated development.

Selecting a location

Strawberries can grow practically on sand and clay, they are not afraid of drought and can withstand the roots getting wet, but in the shade you will not get normal berries.

If the first three problems can practically be solved, then garden strawberries planted in the shade will delight you first with powerful bushes with huge leaves, and then with a small number of very sour berries (also larger than usual), susceptible to all kinds of rot.

Garden strawberries have the most formidable enemy - the larva of the cockchafer . Gardeners themselves often provoke its appearance on the site. With the best of intentions, in the struggle for environmentally friendly berries, they uncontrollably fertilize the beds with humus.

During the spring summer, female cockchafers lay eggs directly in fertilized beds. And the larva lives in the ground up to 4 years of age and is capable of chewing the root of a 5-year-old apple tree, not like a strawberry one.

When preparing the soil for garden strawberries, it is necessary to take this into account - chemical agents against the larvae are ineffective, since they live in a layer of soil up to 1 meter.

Garden strawberries have the most formidable enemy - the larva of the cockchafer; chemical agents against the larvae are ineffective

It must be remembered that the strawberry bed will still have to spend the winter . Anyone who doesn’t want to deal with covering strawberries for the winter should take care of this in advance.

The best protection against frost is snow . Without shelter, strawberry bushes survive -20 degrees and short-term drops to -25-30 degrees below zero (depending on the variety) without damage.

A snow cover of even 15-20 centimeters can reliably cover a strawberry bed even from frost of -30-35 degrees. Everyone knows where the stable snow cover usually lies in winter. That's where strawberries should grow.

You can plant!

If fertilizers have not been applied to the garden bed beforehand, it is better to carry out all fertilizing later, when the seedlings have already begun to grow.

If you don’t dig holes for each seedling, you can organize the work in such a way that you can plant up to 200 strawberry bushes in a maximum of an hour.

Mark the rows on the pegs with laces.
Using the markings, make grooves approximately 10-15 centimeters deep.
Water the rows with water.
If there is ash, sprinkle it in the rows.
Place the seedlings at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters from each other.
Cover the roots of the seedlings halfway with soil.
Water these half-buried roots.
Fill the groove with dry soil up to the outlet.

That's it - the garden bed is ready. After such planting, you can not water for 2-3 days. Dry soil will act as mulch.

When planting strawberries at the root, you can add wood ash - strawberries love it very much.

Care after transplanting and harvesting

Transplanted and fertilized strawberries (after picking the berries) have only one thing in common - these bushes need to be “restored to shape . To do this, foliar feeding is carried out with complex fertilizer for berry fields.

Their advantage over root nutrition is that the substances are absorbed by the leaves within a couple of hours and quickly begin to act.

However, transplanted strawberries need not only potassium and phosphorus supplements . She needs to have time to increase the mass of the bush to the maximum in order to stock up on nutrients from photosynthesis products for the winter.

Nitrogen fertilizing after September will no longer bring benefit to strawberries. The inclusion of phosphorus in autumn fertilizing is vital - the development of the root system depends on its presence.

Watering and fertilizing strawberries:

How to replant?

If you need to replant garden strawberries within one area, this can be done completely without harm to the plants:

The day before, it is necessary to carry out high-quality watering (if the soil is very dry) in order to reduce damage to the root system.
In the new bed, dig a groove as deep as a spade.
Sprinkle with water and add fertilizer if necessary.
Use a shovel to cut out clods of earth with strawberry bushes (the more, the better).
Immediately move these bushes with soil to the prepared place.
Water and level the ground.

Bushes transplanted in this way will not lag behind in development.

In order not to worry about the winter hardiness of the strawberry bed , around September you can feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (and not only the transplanted bushes!).

Proponents of organic farming can do it even simpler: scatter wood ash directly over the plants as fertilizer.

An overdose of ash is impossible ; in addition, ash repels ticks and other pests. And rain and snow will introduce the solution into the soil.

To replant garden strawberries, water them, cut out a lump of earth or a bush with a shovel and move it to a new place

Instead of a conclusion

Contrary to popular belief, caring for garden strawberries is not that difficult . The main thing is to choose a zoned variety and a suitable place for the garden bed.

There are simple rules:

make a bed only in a sunny place,
in winter there should be a layer of snow of at least 20 centimeters on the garden bed,
the distance between rows is at least 70 centimeters,
Apply organic fertilizers sparingly,
where possible, use mulch (at a minimum, loosen the soil),
phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (they are more important than nitrogen fertilizers for berry growers),
watering only deep (excluding the fruiting period).

It is always necessary to remember that a healthy plant will cope with problems on its own . But this health must be ensured by proper planting.

Optimal timing for transplanting strawberries in spring

Spring does not last long, but it is customary to distinguish 3 main periods when you can replant strawberries.

Early dates (after the snow melts)

In the first days of spring, you can replant a crop only if it is covered; for this, use film or plant the plants in a greenhouse. Transplant bushes with an open root system into the soil.

At the end of April and in the first half of May

The mustaches that appeared on the crop last year are transplanted to a permanent plot. Over the fall, they have fully grown and are ready for transplanting. In the spring season, you should wait a little and watch the plants. As soon as they begin to grow, it means they have successfully wintered.

To replant, dig up the bushes with a large lump of soil, leave the green leaves, remove the brown ones. The presence of greenery is not so important, the main thing is that a thick root collar and healthy roots remain.

All work on transplanting strawberries must be completed while there is still a lot of melt water in the soil, but watering is still necessary. Cover the plants with agrofibre for a while to protect the bushes from bright sun and sudden temperature changes.

The end of May

At this time, the crop grown from seeds is replanted. You can also plant bushes of greenhouse origin, because they often have a closed root system and strong foliage, and sometimes there are buds. When replanting a crop, it is better to remove the flower stalks so that the plants do not waste energy on them.

What are the ways to transplant strawberries?

There are only three options for transplanting strawberries. You should choose the one that suits you the most. Let's look at each of them.

Rooted mustache

Before rooting the mustache, take a closer look at the plants you already have, choose the strongest and most productive ones. Take no more than 4 tendrils from the plant and remove the rest. All flower stalks should be removed from bushes that act as a “parent” to other plants and not allowed to bear fruit anymore.

How to propagate strawberries with a mustache:

Destroy all flower stalks.
Select only the first rosettes on strong tendrils. Under them, place glasses filled with soil or humus in the soil.
Place the rosette in the middle of the pot or glass. Secure the socket on both sides with a wire loop.
Trim the tendril that does not connect to the “parent” bush.
Water glasses with rosettes regularly (1-2 times a day).
As soon as the roots fill the glass and about 5 leaves appear (about 40 days), the bush can be separated from the “parent”.
Transplant the seedling to a new area, but first remove it from the soil and trim its own tendrils.

Using this method, the result is 100%, all bushes take root and are not damaged.

Dividing the bush

Algorithm for transplanting strawberries by dividing the bush:

Remove a strong bush of the crop from the ground along with a large lump of earth. Just do everything carefully so that the root system is not damaged.
Place the bush in a large container, destroy old and dry shoots and leaves.
Free the root system from the soil. Place the plant in a bowl filled with water. This method will help free the plant from the ground faster.
During the soaking process, the plant will begin to divide on its own; the gardener only needs to help it. Separate the horns that could not separate on their own with a knife.
In each separated plant, remove excess leaves, leaving only 3 main leaves on 2 stems. Also get rid of flower stalks and dark roots.
For better survival of the bushes, treat the roots in a solution of Fitosporin. Use Kornevin to improve bush growth.
Transplant the bushes into open soil or you can grow them a little, and then plant them in different pots.

Seeds

Please immediately note that hybrid strawberry varieties do not propagate by seeds. Only varietal plants can be grown in this way.

Advantages of propagating strawberries using the seed method:

the bushes turn out healthy and strong;
high productivity;
the opportunity to grow exactly the berry that you like;
there is a chance to grow strawberries without strawberries.

Algorithm for planting strawberries from seeds:

Choose a large berry and dry it.
Select the pulp from the center of the fruit - this is where the seeds are the largest.
Carefully wipe the dried pulp with your hands and select the seed material. It can be stored for about 2 years in a glass container.
Prepare the seed and pots with soil.
Plant 2-3 seeds in each pot.
Grow the seedlings and transplant them into open soil.

Features of transplanting strawberries to a new place in spring

Strawberries need to be replanted in a lighted place, well fertilized and treated. During transplantation, you should adhere to the basic requirements so that the crop is not damaged or killed.

Site selection and preparation

How to prepare a new plot for strawberries:

Completely clear the area of weeds.
Water the soil with Fitosporin and let the soil sit for about 1-2 days.
Loosen the soil.
Scatter the ash so that it completely covers the area of the ground; often 1 liter of can of ash per 1 square meter is enough. m. Instead of ash, you can use potash fertilizers, for example, per 1 sq. m. m – 20 g of potassium sulfate.
Next, add Superphosphate (50 g of product per 1 sq. m).
Pour 6-7 kg of rotted manure or humus per 1 square meter. m.

Summer residents advise, after fertilizing, to dig up the soil onto the bayonet of a shovel so that the fertilizing is mixed.

Avoid using Superphosphate if you have acidic soil.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Before planting bushes in the ground, inspect the plants for various damages. A clear sign of sick strawberries is the absence of green foliage; the reason for this phenomenon lies in the death of the plant’s root system. You should also avoid replanting a crop whose foliage appears weak and dull.

Remove bushes with obvious signs of rot or various diseases so that they do not harm healthy plants.

Transplant procedure: step-by-step diagram

Algorithm for transplanting strawberry horns:

Choose a site for growing crops and fertilize it.
Dig shallow but wide planting holes. Their size depends on the size of the root system.
Water the indentations well.
Carefully place the plant in the hole and dig it in.

Proper planting of garden strawberries in August and autumn

Growing strawberries in the country has long become a tradition. The development of a new territory near the house usually begins with planning and distributing the best areas among favorite crops.

When is it better to plant garden strawberries - in spring or autumn?

It may seem strange, but strawberries are an evergreen plant and do not have a dormant period . Growth continues under the snow, but not as quickly as in the spring.

Almost strawberries can be planted at any time of the year - the bush will not die.

It is permissible to reason this way in two cases:

it is urgently necessary to identify seedlings for the garden,
an opportunity arose to develop a new site.

Their number is associated with the overall development of the bush, the condition of the roots and adequate nutrition in the second half of the year.

Strawberries can be planted at any time - in autumn or spring - the bush will take root and even produce berries

In the second half of summer, strawberries usually already have time to form tendrils with rosettes of new plants - high-quality planting material.

Such planting material is used only when there is a shortage of seedlings; they require more careful care and increased attention after transplantation.

Advantages and disadvantages of planting in August and autumn

Important advantages of planting garden strawberries in the fall:

availability of high-quality planting material,
usually at the end of summer some of the beds are cleared,
strawberry seedlings manage to take root well in their new location.

Until new leaves clearly grow, the strawberry has not yet taken root. The entire period of time before this requires careful care (this is approximately two weeks):

watering (only deep, otherwise the roots will remain on the surface, and the bush will constantly suffer from a lack of water),
loosening the row spacing (it is necessary not only to conserve water, but also to deliver air oxygen to the growing roots).

Autumn planting of berry bushes has advantages over spring, but there are also disadvantages

Choosing a Good Growing Site

First of all, you need to prepare a bed to plant strawberries:

Considering that its root system penetrates a maximum of 20-25 centimeters, the area must be dug up using a shovel.
It is very important to remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds as much as possible.
If the area is damp, it is better to immediately organize “high beds” or at least plant on ridges.

These preparatory operations for planting a bed of strawberries will save you from “extra” work for at least two to three seasons.

It is best to plant strawberries in narrow strips oriented “south-north” - with this arrangement, the plants receive sunlight evenly throughout the day.

If your plot is located on a slope, then the rows should be placed only along the slope (no transverse rows - the first rainfall will wash away your plantings).

Bushes are best planted and replanted at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters . If the seedlings are weak, you can plant two seedlings in one hole.

Master class on planting strawberries (strawberries) in the fall:

How and where to plant seedlings: stages, timing and more

Nothing will work if the strawberry bush is planted too deep or, conversely, too high. Such bushes will lag significantly behind in development and, most likely, will not bloom.

Preparation of seedlings

Most often, purchased seedlings go a long way before they reach the garden bed. Before planting, it is necessary to revive them - put them in water to restore the condition of the roots.

You can add root formation stimulants to the water:

drugs such as heteroauxin, Kornevin, succinic acid,
a teaspoon of honey,
crushed aloe leaf.

These seedlings will take root with great problems and will be sick for a long time.

The roots should also not be too long . If you shorten them to 5-6 cm, they will even recover faster. Young roots contribute to the growth of the bush and its accelerated development.

Selecting a location

Strawberries can grow practically on sand and clay, they are not afraid of drought and can withstand the roots getting wet, but in the shade you will not get normal berries.

When preparing the soil for garden strawberries, it is necessary to take this into account - chemical agents against the larvae are ineffective, since they live in a layer of soil up to 1 meter.

Garden strawberries have the most formidable enemy - the larva of the cockchafer; chemical agents against the larvae are ineffective

The best protection against frost is snow . Without shelter, strawberry bushes survive -20 degrees and short-term drops to -25-30 degrees below zero (depending on the variety) without damage.

You can plant!

If fertilizers have not been applied to the garden bed beforehand, it is better to carry out all fertilizing later, when the seedlings have already begun to grow.

If you don’t dig holes for each seedling, you can organize the work in such a way that you can plant up to 200 strawberry bushes in a maximum of an hour.

Mark the rows on the pegs with laces.
Using the markings, make grooves approximately 10-15 centimeters deep.
Water the rows with water.
If there is ash, sprinkle it in the rows.
Place the seedlings at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters from each other.
Cover the roots of the seedlings halfway with soil.
Water these half-buried roots.
Fill the groove with dry soil up to the outlet.

That's it - the garden bed is ready. After such planting, you can not water for 2-3 days. Dry soil will act as mulch.

When planting strawberries at the root, you can add wood ash - strawberries love it very much.

Care after transplanting and harvesting

Their advantage over root nutrition is that the substances are absorbed by the leaves within a couple of hours and quickly begin to act.

Watering and fertilizing strawberries:

How to replant?

If you need to replant garden strawberries within one area, this can be done completely without harm to the plants:

The day before, it is necessary to carry out high-quality watering (if the soil is very dry) in order to reduce damage to the root system.
In the new bed, dig a groove as deep as a spade.
Sprinkle with water and add fertilizer if necessary.
Use a shovel to cut out clods of earth with strawberry bushes (the more, the better).
Immediately move these bushes with soil to the prepared place.
Water and level the ground.

Bushes transplanted in this way will not lag behind in development.

In order not to worry about the winter hardiness of the strawberry bed , around September you can feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (and not only the transplanted bushes!).

Proponents of organic farming can do it even simpler: scatter wood ash directly over the plants as fertilizer.

An overdose of ash is impossible ; in addition, ash repels ticks and other pests. And rain and snow will introduce the solution into the soil.

To replant garden strawberries, water them, cut out a lump of earth or a bush with a shovel and move it to a new place

Instead of a conclusion

Contrary to popular belief, caring for garden strawberries is not that difficult . The main thing is to choose a zoned variety and a suitable place for the garden bed.

There are simple rules:

make a bed only in a sunny place,
in winter there should be a layer of snow of at least 20 centimeters on the garden bed,
the distance between rows is at least 70 centimeters,
Apply organic fertilizers sparingly,
where possible, use mulch (at a minimum, loosen the soil),
phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (they are more important than nitrogen fertilizers for berry growers),
watering only deep (excluding the fruiting period).

It is always necessary to remember that a healthy plant will cope with problems on its own . But this health must be ensured by proper planting.

Planting under black covering material

This material is a black film with a thickness of 100 microns. Thinner material cannot be used, otherwise weeds will be able to seep through it.

Planting algorithm under black covering material:

Place this material on the beds, press the edges with bricks and cover with soil.
Make slits in the black material, and dig holes under them, plant strawberry seedlings in them.
Be sure to remove the tendrils from the plant, otherwise they will take root under the film, and then it will be very difficult to tidy up the plantings.

This material is removed for the winter.

Summer residents are confident that black covering material helps increase the amount of strawberry harvest. This is due to the fact that the covering material quickly heats up from the sun's rays, and this significantly accelerates the growth of berries. The only disadvantage of such a system is inadequate watering. The slots are very small and moisture does not penetrate well to the root system.

Choosing a place for strawberries

To grow strawberries you need the right area. You should not plant berries in beds after potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and peppers. But the culture grows well after herbs (parsley, dill, celery), onions, garlic, lettuce, radishes, beets, carrots.

Make sure that the strawberry beds are in a well-lit area.

The soil is also very important for obtaining a rich harvest of berries. Before planting, apply starter fertilizer (per 1 m²):

Compost - 1 bucket.
Potassium salts – 20 g.
Urea – 25 g.
Double superphosphate – up to 40 g.

Second option for improving the soil:

Garden soil - 1 bucket.
Compost - 1 bucket.
Humus - 1 bucket.
Ash - 2 cups.

Strawberry beds should not be located in areas with high groundwater levels (they should be at least 40 cm away). If the area is heavily flooded, you can grow strawberries in high windrows or beds.

The strawberry plantation must be positioned so that the wind does not break leaves and shoots.

Caring for strawberries after transplanting in the spring

Care should always be thorough, but in general it consists of regular watering. After transplanting the crop, the bushes are watered daily for several weeks. But you should not fill them, especially if you have made a high-quality mulch layer.

2 weeks after transplanting, water the plants as the soil dries. In the first year, there is no need to apply additional fertilizers, since during replanting you have already nourished the soil. You will get your first strawberry harvest only next year, so you will have to be patient.

Tips and Tricks

Strawberries are a berry crop that requires frequent replanting. For convenience, it is worth preparing a crop rotation plan for all crops cultivated in the garden, so that there are no difficulties with predecessors and the soil is not depleted. Moreover, having such a sketch, the gardener will save himself from the “painful” search for a place when the deadlines have already approached.

If the garden is located in a lowland or the groundwater lies quite close to the surface (less than 1.5 m), this is not a reason to refuse to cultivate strawberries. It is worth preparing high beds by raising them by 40-50 cm. The distance between the beds in this case is kept within 80 cm.

To obtain a bountiful harvest, the berry garden must be replanted. If this is done correctly and at the optimal time, then only large and high-quality fruits will be on the table every year.

Popular mistakes

Often, even experienced gardeners make mistakes when transplanting strawberries; let’s look at the most important ones:

Planting too early. As a result, the roots die from frost, and the plants no longer recover.
Transplanting unprepared seedlings into open ground. If the bushes grew in good conditions, then wait for stable warm days or make a reliable shelter for the seedlings.
Using polyethylene film as a covering material. Because of this, plants often suffer from overheating.

Useful tips for beginning gardeners

Some recommendations from experienced summer residents will help you replant strawberries safely and get a rich harvest from them in the future.

A few top tips:

After transplanting into open soil, do not fertilize the strawberries at all for several months. The bushes must fully take root and adapt to the new place.
Follow the rules of crop rotation, never plant a crop in an area where strawberries grew. Peas, celery and carrots are also considered enemies of the crop.

Proper replanting to a new location is what strawberries lack for good yield and improved taste of the fruit. Take a closer look at the methods of transplanting crops, and choose the option that will be best for the plants and suitable for a particular region.

Transplant technology

In order for the plants to quickly take root and produce a good harvest, it is necessary to comply with all agrotechnical requirements for replanting. When planning to move a strawberry plantation, you should not choose areas where nightshade representatives grew last season.

Choosing a new location and preparing the soil

For strawberries, flat or slightly sloping areas that are well lit by the sun and protected from the wind are suitable. Groundwater must lie deep, otherwise there is a high risk of developing fungal diseases due to stagnation of moisture in the roots. The optimal predecessors after which the crop should be placed are: legumes, garlic, onions, herbs and carrots. Strawberries develop well in loose, fertile soils with a neutral reaction. It is worth preparing the soil in the fall so that it has time to settle. For digging, 5 kg of compost and 100 g of nitroammophosphate are added per 1 m2.

Selection and processing of planting material

Only healthy seedlings with a well-developed root system are selected for transplantation. If these are valuable varieties that were not obtained through propagation, but simply need to be moved for independent distribution, they begin to select suitable specimens a year in advance, without allowing them to bear fruit. The optimal age of the berry plant is 2 years. In order not to contaminate the soil in a new place along with the planting material, I first disinfect it with a manganese solution in which the roots are immersed.

Step-by-step instruction

Once the optimal time has arrived, you can begin planting:

Holes are prepared on the site at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
If the soil has not been previously enriched, pour a handful of compost and a pinch of complex fertilizer into the planting holes and cover everything with soil.
Treated planting material with the root system straightened is placed on top.
The seedlings are buried so that the root collar remains on the surface of the soil.
The soil in the tree trunk circles is slightly compacted and moistened.