How to plant raspberries in the fall: step-by-step instructions

Raspberries are very popular among gardeners. This is understandable: not everyone manages to get out into the forest to get this nutritionally and medicinally valuable, tasty and aromatic berry. Moreover, garden crops are attractive due to the variety of varieties that can bear fruit on the site at different times. In the central region of Russia, it is better to plant raspberries in the fall. Why? You will find the answer to this question in the article, and also learn about the rules and methods of planting.

In different climatic conditions, planting work is recommended to be carried out in spring or autumn

In what cases are raspberries planted in the fall?

Autumn is considered the most favorable time for planting raspberries. During the time remaining before the cold weather, the seedlings have time to take root, the existing root system is not only strengthened, but also replenished with new roots.

Raspberries are planted in the fall if:

• The variety is winter-hardy. It is better to plant non-winter-hardy raspberries in the spring.
• The weather is favorable for autumn planting - this is especially true in the southern regions and temperate climates.
• We need to get the harvest as soon as possible. Having planted seedlings in the fall, the gardener receives the first berries in the summer. Raspberries planted in spring bear fruit only the following year.

We recommend reading the article about the best raspberry varieties.

Planting dates in different regions

The time for planting raspberries in the fall is chosen taking into account the climate in the region. The seedlings should have enough time - at least 3-4 weeks - to take root well.

Features of autumn planting of raspberries in the regions:

According to the lunar calendar

Today, many gardeners, when doing work in the garden, are guided by the lunar calendar. Agrotechnical measures carried out on favorable days are more effective.

According to the lunar calendar for 2022:

• Favorable autumn days for planting raspberry seedlings are September 1-4, 7-9, 17-19.
• Unfavorable days – 10-11, 14, 20-22, 24-25, 28 September.

Advantages and disadvantages of autumn planting

Why is it beneficial to plant raspberries in the fall:

• At this time, there is a lot of planting material on the market at an affordable price - you can choose any variety you like. Seedlings are often sold with berries so that the buyer can see what he is buying. In spring there is always less choice.
• The weather in autumn is not hot, the humidity is high, and the temperature drops at night. Such weather conditions activate root growth in seedlings. In spring, the weather can change dramatically; temperature changes from hot to cool negatively affect the growth of newly planted seedlings. In autumn there is no such problem.
• Easy care. After planting, the seedlings require a minimum of care - the main agrotechnical activities are postponed until the spring.
• In autumn, the seedling accumulates nutrients and the plant strengthens. A seedling planted in the spring spends energy growing green mass, and at the same time it still has to take root. Due to this energy consumption, spring seedlings are weaker than autumn ones.

Autumn planting has one drawback - you need to vigilantly monitor the weather so as not to make a mistake with the planting time. It is not always possible to accurately guess the best time.

What conditions are needed?

For autumn planting to be successful, several conditions must be met, here are the most important:

1. Take only annual seedlings.
2. Select the site carefully - it must meet the requirements of lighting, soil composition, etc.
3. Stock up on water - you will have to pour 8 liters under each bush.
4. Check the quality of planting - if, when pulled out, the seedling rises easily, replant it, otherwise it will freeze.
5. Select the planting time so that there is about a month left before frost - so that the roots take root and the buds do not have time to awaken.
6. Planting is carried out at an air humidity of 80% and at a temperature of 10-15°C.

Features of further care

A planted raspberry tree needs regular care. It includes a number of procedures:

1. Pruning - performed to a height of 20-25 cm. Stimulates shoot growth and improves survival rate.
2. Feeding is carried out monthly. Organic fertilizers are used (manure dissolved in water 1:10, or bird droppings diluted 1:20). To prepare the nutritional composition, use 15 g of saltpeter, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate. All these elements are mixed and 10 liters of water are poured.
3. Watering - in dry conditions, moistening is carried out with a frequency of 1 time every 10 days.
4. Treatment against pests and diseases - for this purpose, biological and chemical preparations (fungicides and insecticides), as well as folk remedies are used.
5. Loosening the soil and removing weeds.
6. Creating a shelter for the winter - at the first frost, a protective layer of peat is laid around the seedling.

How to choose seedlings?

You cannot count on good harvests without high-quality planting material. What are the criteria for selecting annual raspberry seedlings?

• developed root system;
• root length – 10 cm;
• flexible shoots about 1 cm thick at the base;
• there should be no signs of rot on the roots.

Take seedlings with closed roots. Such planting material is usually offered by nurseries and garden centers. Raspberry seedlings grown in separate containers are transplanted using the transshipment method - along with a lump of earth. The survival rate of such seedlings is almost 100%.

Selection and preparation of raspberry seedlings

It is extremely important to choose the right planting material . The health of the entire raspberry tree and its fruiting will depend on the quality of the seedlings.

It is very important to choose the right planting material

It is recommended to adhere to the following selection parameters:

• The plant should be young with average thickness of stems (5–8 mm), each of them should have at least 3–4 healthy buds. The shoots are shortened, leaving about 25–30 cm.
• The bark on the stems is brown, shiny and smooth, without damage, knots, cracks or various questionable spots. Peeling bark indicates that the bush is old.
• The root system is branched and fibrous, well developed (at least 15–25 cm long), healthy (without rotten or dry areas).

A good raspberry seedling should look healthy

Before transportation, the root system is wrapped in a wet cloth and placed in a plastic bag . Prolonged storage in polyethylene is unacceptable, since the delicate roots may begin to rot. Upon arrival at the site, the seedling must be buried immediately. The plant can be left in the air for more than a day, since raspberry roots are extremely sensitive to drying out. For better preservation, you can dip the root system in a clay mash. It is prepared from clay, which is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream, and a small amount of mullein is added.

Before planting, it is recommended to dip the raspberry seedling in a clay mash

Immediately before planting, the roots are moistened with water or briefly dipped in an earthen solution (½ bucket of fertile soil is filled to the top with water). If the seedlings were dug up quite a long time ago, then they need to be soaked in water for 5–6 hours, and then the root system should be treated with any root formation stimulant (Kornevin, Zircon, Epin, etc.).

You need to purchase planting material only from reliable suppliers with a good reputation. You shouldn’t be fooled by cheap prices and buy seedlings on the market from completely unfamiliar sellers.

Our neighbors have very good large and sweet raspberries. They dug up the shoots right in front of us and we immediately planted them in the right place. This option for purchasing seedlings is optimal; it guarantees the varietal purity of the planting material.

Choosing a landing site

Requirements for a site for planting raspberries:

• Lighting. Good sun exposure. It is advisable that the sun's rays fall on the site most of the day. You can’t plant raspberries between fruit trees - aeration and lighting deteriorate, and yields drop.
• Relief and humidity. Raspberries are badly affected by drafts and wind, so it is better to plant them closer to the fence, retreating at least a meter. Slopes where the soil can dry out are not suitable for planting. The culture is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate excessive waterlogging - the roots rot. Raspberries should not be planted in lowlands where water stagnates. The groundwater level is at least 1.5 m from the surface.
• Neighborhood. The best neighbors are currants and blackberries. It is undesirable to place a raspberry garden next to competing crops - grapes and sea buckthorn.

When choosing a place for planting, it is necessary to take into account crop rotation:

• The worst predecessors for raspberries are nightshades (eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes) and strawberries (strawberries).
• The best predecessors are pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, beans, green manure.

The following video talks about the best place to choose for planting raspberries in the fall:

Raspberries can be replanted in the place of the former raspberry field after 4-5 years.

Rules for planting remontant raspberries

Remontant varieties of raspberries can be planted at any time: both in autumn and spring. However, it is believed that autumn is preferable for this, since with the onset of warmth the bushes immediately begin to actively develop and will produce their first good harvest in the summer. When planted in spring, fruiting will be later and not very intense.

Remontant raspberries are more demanding and capricious in terms of illumination, as well as the degree of moisture. When grown even in light partial shade, the berries will ripen later and will not be as sweet. Insufficient watering will directly affect the size and quantity of fruits.

Remontant raspberries should be planted in a place well lit by the sun.

The landing rules are as follows:

1. The soil should be neutral or very slightly acidic. If necessary, it is deoxidized with dolomite flour and fluff.
2. The beds are prepared in advance. When digging, add per 1 m2: humus - 2 buckets, potassium sulphide - 1 cup, superphosphate - 1 cup.
3. Bushes are planted in holes or trenches 0.5–0.6 m deep and 0.5 m wide. Plants are placed at a distance of about 0.5–1 m from each other, row spacing is at least 1.2–1.5 m.
4. Fill and compact the soil.
5. Sprinkle generously with water - 5–6 liters per bush.
6. Mulch with bark, plant debris, grass clippings, etc.

Not having the appropriate knowledge at the right time, we planted remontant raspberries in the shade of a large apple tree. The berries on it are noticeably less tasty and sweet than those of ordinary raspberries growing nearby. Although the bushes are growing and developing well.

Soil requirements

Raspberries love fertile soils. If the soil is poor in nutrients, the raspberry leaves turn pale and turn yellow. When choosing and preparing the soil for planting, consider the following:

• Loams. The best option. These soils retain water well. Humus is added to them and high-quality drainage is made from expanded clay - the result is ideal soil for raspberries.
• Sandstones. Also a great option. Well-permeable soil in which water does not stagnate.
• Sandstones. Raspberries grow well on sandy soils, but only if they are fertilized and regularly watered.
• Clay soils. An undesirable option is that raspberries grow weak and unproductive on clay soils. Sand is added to clay soil - a bucket for 1 square meter. m.

The relationship of raspberries to soil acidity:

• The optimal soil acidity is neutral.
• Add lime to acidic soils - 0.5 kg per 1 sq. m.
• Alkaline soils are unfavorable. Therefore, you should apply chalk and ash with extreme caution - they, by alkalizing the soil, can provoke root canker. Gardeners often add ash during the formation of berries to improve their taste.

You can find out the approximate acidity level in a simple way - by observing the growth of weeds. On highly acidified soils, plantain, sorrel, horsetail, and fireweed grow especially rapidly. On neutral soils there is a lot of clover and nettles.

How to mulch raspberries

Mulching raspberries helps solve two problems at once. First of all, retain moisture in the soil and prevent it from overheating. In addition, a thick layer of mulch prevents weeds from growing. Plant material gradually rots and is a good organic fertilizer and food for beneficial soil bacteria. Insects and pathogens can overwinter in the top layer, so it needs to be changed at least once a year in early spring or late autumn.

Every gardener believes that he knows the best way to mulch raspberries. In reality, a variety of materials will work. Crushed stalks of sunflower and corn, dry leaves of fruit and ornamental plants (except poisonous ones), peat, compost and even husks from oilseed seeds and chaff of wheat and other cereals. The main thing is that the raw materials are not contaminated with fungal and bacterial diseases.

The question often arises whether it is possible to mulch raspberries with sawdust. Yes, they fit well, but the type of wood makes a big difference. Oak sawdust inhibits the growth of bushes. It is better to choose shavings or sawdust from hardwood or softwood that has been aged for at least a year.

Correct distance between bushes

Enough space is left between the raspberry bushes so that they grow comfortably, are well lit, ventilated, and are accessible for care. The distance between bushes depends on the planting method:

• If raspberries are planted in rows, there should be at least 70-100 cm between adjacent seedlings. Between rows - 1-1.5 m. It is allowed to plant no more than 2 seedlings in one hole.
• If the tape method is used, the step in the rows is 35-50 cm. The distance between the tapes is 1.8-2 m.

Planting methods and instructions for them

Raspberries are most often planted using bush or trench methods. Farms usually use the belt method. Let's look at all three methods in more detail.

Bush

This planting method is used in regions with high humidity. Thin raspberry bushes promote good ventilation of the bushes and reduce disease incidence. The bush method does not require preliminary fertilization of the soil.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. 2 weeks before planting, dig holes 40 cm deep. The diameter of the holes is 30-40 cm.
2. Add 5 kg of humus or compost to each hole.
3. Prepare a mixture of 1/2 of the excavated soil and fertilizers - superphosphate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (10 g). You can replace the latter with two glasses of ash.
4. Fill about half of the hole with soil mixture.
5. Place the seedling in the hole, spreading the roots in different directions.
6. When burying the roots, make sure that the root collar of the seedling does not end up below the soil level.
7. When filling the roots with soil, shake the seedling periodically so that there are no voids left between its roots.
8. Form a circular hole around the seedling and pour 5 liters of water into it.
9. Shorten the shoots; their height should be about 20 cm.
10. Mulch the soil with hay, straw or humus.

This video shows autumn planting of raspberries, in which you can get a very good harvest next season:

Tape

Planting using a strip or single-row method is somewhat more complicated than the bush method, but it is the most popular method for growing raspberries over large areas.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Dig a ditch - a “ribbon”, 40-50 cm wide. Depth - from 40 cm. Length - at your discretion.
2. Apply fertilizer to the ditch and mix it thoroughly with the excavated soil. Fertilizer application rate per 1 sq. m:
   rotted manure – 3 kg;
3. superphosphate – 30 g;
4. potassium salt – 20 g.
5. Place the seedlings at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. The interval between rows is 1.5-2 m. When choosing a planting scheme, take into account the height of the bushes - it depends on the variety. If the raspberries are tall, make maximum intervals.
6. Plant the seedlings so that their roots are vertical, without bending. Seedlings planted using the strip method form an even line.

In addition to the single-row method, there is also a two-row planting method. It is almost no different from the previous one, but the bushes are planted in a ribbon in 2 rows:

• In the tape, the rows are located at a distance of 40-80 cm from each other, depending on the tallness of the variety.
• The interval between seedlings is the same as with the single-row tape method - 40-50 cm.

The main advantage of the two-row method is space saving.

Trench

The trench method is a type of strip planting. Its main difference is the nutrient cushion placed at the bottom of the trench. The pillow has been a source of nutrients for the raspberry plant for a long time. And thanks to the decomposition of plant residues, the bushes receive additional heat.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Dig a trench 40-50 cm wide. Depth – 60-70 cm.
2. If the soil is heavy, clayey, lay gravel and sand in a layer of 10-15 cm at the bottom of the trench. Then lay a cushion - first branches, then fallen leaves, hay and green mass. To ensure uniform “ripening” of the layers, you can cover them with sawdust or fertile soil.
3. Water the layers of plant debris well.
4. Place a soil mixture of fertile soil, organic matter and mineral fertilizers on top - prepare it in the same way as described above. Next, the seedlings are planted - the same as with the tape method.

Only healthy shrubs and trees are used as a plant base for the nutrient cushion.

Regardless of the planting method chosen, it is recommended to fence off the edges of the planting. To do this, slate or boards are buried in the ground - this will prevent the raspberries from spreading across the area.

In this video, the gardener shares his experience of autumn planting raspberries using the trench method:

Raspberries - varieties for Siberia. Description

The best raspberries for Siberia

• The raspberry variety Ogonyok Sibirskiy is an excellent choice for planting in regions with the harshest winters. Gardeners value this variety for its productivity and ease of care. If you monitor the sufficient level of soil moisture, the bush will reward you with a rich harvest - up to 4 kg of delicious raspberries from one bush. The variety "Ogonyok Sibirskiy" has an average ripening period and is also characterized by good resistance to the most common diseases of fruit bushes in the garden.
• The raspberry variety “Stolichnaya” is the choice of many gardeners in Siberia. The shrub has powerful shoots, grows in a standard form, usually reaches 1.5 - 2 meters in height. There are no thorns on the branches, which greatly facilitates bush care and harvesting. Gardeners very often choose this variety for planting in Siberia, as the plant tolerates the most severe frosts without problems. Ripe raspberries have a rich red color, and the juicy pulp has a pleasant sweet taste. The advantage of this variety is that there is no need to rush to collect ripe berries. Fragrant ripe raspberries do not fall off, but wait 3-5 days for their “time”. With proper care, you can harvest up to 4.5 kg of harvest from one bush.

• Raspberry variety "Mirage" . The harvest on the bushes, whose height can reach 3.5 meters, begins to ripen quite late. The fruits are very large, have an elongated shape, and have a bright aroma and dessert taste. Almost no root shoots form around the bush. Although there are thorns on powerful shoots, they are soft and do not create difficulties in caring for raspberries. This variety can be called one of the best raspberry varieties for growing in Siberia, as it has high frost resistance, ease of care and resistance to pests and diseases. Gardeners also note the high yield of Mirage raspberries.

Remontant raspberries for Siberia

Among the remontant raspberries there are also many varieties that are suitable for growing in Siberia. The most popular varieties are:

• raspberry variety "Unattainable". The shrub has a very dense crown, which will constantly thicken if not pruned. The berries are not very aromatic, but very tasty. Each berry has the shape of a cone with a rounded top and weighs up to 7-8 grams. Gardeners value this variety for its ease of care and early ripening;

• The raspberry variety “Hercules” is an early ripening shrub, exceeding 2 meters in maturity. The main distinguishing feature of this variety is the large size of the berries, the weight of which can reach 15 grams. The berries are very pleasant to the taste. The medium-density pulp allows you to store or transport the crop. With proper care and favorable growth conditions, up to 3 kg of harvest can be harvested from one bush;

• The Indian Summer raspberry variety is an excellent choice of remontant raspberries for growing in Siberia. This medium-sized shrub easily tolerates even the coldest winters. The pulp of ripe fruits has a pleasant sweet and sour taste. When caring for Indian Summer raspberries, special attention should be paid to protection from powdery mildew and rust. The shrub has good resistance to other diseases;

• raspberry variety "Gift of Siberia". A very tall and spreading raspberry bush reaches a height of almost 3 meters. Thorns are located on powerful shoots of the plant. With proper care, one bush can produce more than 4 kg of tasty and aromatic harvest;

• raspberry variety "Bryanskoe Miracle". If you are looking for a raspberry variety for planting in the harsh climatic conditions of Siberia, which will bear fruit until frost, then take a closer look at Bryansk Diva. The berries are large in size, their weight can reach 11 grams.

Large-fruited raspberries for Siberia

Among the large-fruited raspberry varieties there is also a huge selection of winter-hardy varieties that can be successfully grown in Siberia and the Urals. Among the most common varieties are the following:

• raspberry variety "Tarusa" . The powerful tree-like shoots of this variety of raspberries allow you to grow the shrub in a standard form. The conical raspberry-colored berries weigh 10 grams. Gardeners who grow Tarusa raspberries on their plots note that the berries are best suited for freezing, canning and other processing, since the taste of raspberries is at an average level. If you properly care for the bush, you can harvest up to 4 kg from one plant;

• raspberry variety "Yellow Giant". A tall shrub with large raspberries of spectacular yellow color will become a real decoration of any garden in Siberia. This variety is known not only for the large size of its berries, but also for its excellent frost resistance. The weight of one ripe “Yellow Giant” berry can reach 10 grams. The berries are very sweet, aromatic and tasty. But due to the fact that the pulp of the berries is juicy and soft, storing or transporting the berries for a long time is very problematic;

• raspberry variety "Beglyanka". This raspberry variety is also considered large-fruited. It is excellent for growing in the difficult climatic conditions of Siberia. The shrub has a compact shape and does not grow much. The fruits begin to ripen quite early, gradually acquiring a yellowish tint. Ripe berries have a pleasant taste with sourness.

Fruitful raspberry varieties for Siberia

• Raspberry variety "Reward". This name was given to the variety because of its high yield. If you follow the minimum requirements for caring for raspberries, the bush will definitely reward you with a bountiful harvest. The berries are not large in size and have a bright aroma, but they have an unusually sweet taste. Among the disadvantages of the variety, one can note its low transportability.

• Raspberry variety "Arbat". The shrub has a rather spreading crown and reaches 1.5-2 meters in height. Many gardeners consider the main advantage of this variety to be high yield. As the fruits ripen, they acquire a light red color and a slightly elongated shape. Also, the Arbat variety is known for its high resistance to the most common diseases of fruit bushes in the garden.

Early raspberry varieties for Siberia

Among the early raspberry varieties suitable for growing in Siberia, the following can be distinguished:

• raspberry variety "Vera". A spreading shrub reaches 150 cm in height. You will be able to harvest the crop in the 3rd year after planting. Ripe berries are very aromatic, have juicy and tasty pulp. A peculiarity of the variety is that the harvested crop is difficult to transport and long-term storage. Most often, Vera raspberries are consumed fresh, frozen, or canned. The variety has excellent frost-resistant characteristics and is resistant to adverse environmental conditions;

• raspberry variety "Early sweet". The variety was bred by Russian breeders for cultivation in regions with difficult climatic conditions. The shrub usually grows up to 2.5 meters in height. As raspberries ripen, they acquire a red hue and an unusual sweet aroma. The berries are small in size, but very tasty. Among the disadvantages of this variety are weak resistance to fungal diseases and insufficiently good transportability;

• raspberry variety “Novost Kuzmina”. A mature shrub usually does not exceed 2.5 meters in height. Erect stems form a spreading crown. The yield of this variety is average, the berries ripen early. The taste characteristics of Novost Kuzmina raspberries meet the highest requirements. But it is unlikely that it will be possible to store or transport the berries after picking. The shrub easily tolerates frosts down to minus 25 degrees;
• raspberry variety "Gussar". A tall variety of early ripening raspberries reaches a height of 2-2.5 meters. Raspberry shoots are powerful and erect, requiring no support. A ripe berry weighs about 4 grams. The delicious sweet aroma and pleasant-tasting pulp will not leave even the most demanding gardeners indifferent. Among the advantages of this variety are excellent frost resistance, resistance to temperature changes characteristic of the climatic conditions of Siberia, and the almost complete absence of “thorns” on the shoots, which greatly simplifies plant care and harvesting. Among the disadvantages of the “Gussar” variety, gardeners note poor transportability;

• raspberry variety "Meteor". Strong shoots of the bush are covered with small thorns along their entire length. The harvest begins to ripen early. Fragrant and tasty raspberries lend themselves well to storage and transportation. Each berry weighs about 3 grams and is shaped like a cone with a rounded top. The advantages of the variety are considered to be frost resistance and resistance to most fungal diseases;
• raspberry variety "Aborigine". An excellent frost-resistant variety of early ripening, suitable for growing in Siberia. As raspberries ripen, they acquire a rich red color; each berry is quite large in size - from 5 to 8 grams! Due to the fact that the raspberry pulp is quite dense, it can be stored for some time and transported.

Care after landing

Care consists of maintaining normal soil moisture and preparing plantings for winter. In order to carry out all autumn agrotechnical measures on time - before frost, it is necessary to monitor the weather.

Do I need to water?

During planting, water the raspberries, then you need to pause - without additional moisture, the root system of the seedlings will grow and develop better. In many regions, the weather is rainy in the fall - watering planted raspberries is definitely not required there. And only some time after planting, if the soil is dry, the seedlings are watered.

Before winter, experienced gardeners recommend water-recharging watering - it makes the shrub more frost-resistant. The soil should be moistened 40 cm deep.

Do you need feeding?

No fertilizing is needed in the fall - the plant received all the useful organic substances, as well as potassium and phosphorus, during planting. The plant is provided with nutrition provided during planting for 2-3 years.

If raspberries are planted in unfertilized sandy soils, you can apply fertilizer immediately after planting. Between the rows, grooves are dug 15 cm deep - along the entire length of the row. Fertilizers are applied at the rate of 40 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate per plant. First, the required amount of fertilizer is poured into the furrows, and then they are filled with water so that the minerals dissolve.

Mulching

Autumn mulching is used from the first year of raspberry life. The mulch is scattered immediately after planting - in a thin layer, and immediately before frost, a thick layer is poured. Thanks to this procedure, the root system is protected. This is especially important in the absence of snow cover.

For mulching, organic materials with a neutral acidic environment are used.

Organic mulch for raspberries:

• Peat. The perfect solution. This organic matter of “swamp” origin is most suitable for raspberries. It can be laid even on unexpectedly fallen snow. For winter shelter, a layer 5-7 cm thick is sufficient.
• Sawdust. This affordable material is more popular among gardeners than others. Sawdust turns into humus in 2-3 years
• Compost. It is less suitable than others for autumn mulching of raspberries due to its high nitrogen content.

You can also use straw and rotted leaves as mulch - they are usually used before wintering.

Preparing for winter

In the southern regions, raspberries planted in the fall do not need to be covered - just mulching is enough. In the middle zone and in the northern regions, the future raspberry tree is covered for the winter. The shelters installed are designed for snow to fall in winter and protect the seedlings from frost. Plants that are not covered are at risk of freezing.

The procedure for preparing young raspberries:

• If there is no rain, water the plantings.
• Loosen and mulch the soil with a thick layer of organic matter - peat, dry leaves, spruce branches. Mulch protects the roots from freezing and at the same time provides a source of nutrients. The mulch layer should be 5-10 cm thick, otherwise it will have no effect.

If the variety is not frost-resistant, or winter temperatures in the region are very low, you will have to bend the seedlings to the ground. This is done a week before frost. Seedlings should be bent down very carefully. They are laid on one side and fixed. In winter, snow is thrown over the raspberry field.

Is it possible to replant

Raspberries are replanted if their yield decreases , diseases often occur, and the taste of the fruit deteriorates. Experienced gardeners recommend doing this once every 5 years.

In summer, the procedure can be carried out only if you dig up and fertilize a new area in advance , select strong shoots with a diameter of up to 10 mm with developed roots. They are first shortened and placed in prepared holes.

Popular mistakes made by newbies when landing for the first time

Errors in planting, due to which it is not possible to get a large harvest:

• The raspberries were planted too early. Having taken root, the seedlings have time to send out shoots. Once activated, the plant may suffer during the first frost, and its immunity will be lowered.
• The raspberry plant is located in a shaded place. Due to the lack of sun, the plant reaches for the light, its shoots become thinner, and they do not have time to ripen by the end of the season. Because of this, in winter, part of the buds - at the ends of the shoots - freezes.
• The raspberries are planted on clay soils where moisture stagnates.
• During planting, seedlings are poorly pruned. The above-ground part delays nutrition, interfering with rooting.
• Low-quality seedlings were used - too mature, with dry roots, with defects, traces of diseases (a description of raspberry diseases is written here), damaged by insects.

Preparing for winter

Preparing for winter is a very important time when it is important not to miss or forget anything. Schedule the following procedures:

• watering in case of lack of rain;
• mulching;
• pruning shoots or bending them to the ground;
• covering with spunbond or lutrasil.

No more than seven shoots are left on one adult plant so that they do not take food from each other, but develop and bear fruit normally. The mulch is turned over several times, especially if it is straw or hay.

As the weather gets colder, keep an eye on precipitation. As soon as the snow falls, use it to cover the raspberries. In winter, from time to time you need to ensure that the wind does not blow up the snow shelters. Raspberry shoots should be under snow cover to prevent the buds from freezing.

Planting raspberries should be done according to all the rules, so you will lay the foundation for an excellent harvest. Raspberry is a very unpretentious plant. But even he needs favorable conditions for abundant harvests.

When should I expect fruiting after planting?

Receiving a harvest in the first summer is one of the main advantages of autumn planting. But for this advantage to be realized, it is necessary to provide the seedlings with proper care. If the young growth suffers from a lack of water, freezes in winter, and is affected by pests, then next year’s harvest will be meager or the raspberries will not produce berries at all.

Conditions for harvesting next year:

• correct planting - healthy planting material, application of fertilizers, etc.;
• ensuring normal soil moisture;
• careful shelter for the winter - in accordance with winter temperatures;
• treating the soil under the bushes with Karbofos - 10 ml per bucket of water (calculated for one bush);
• treat the soil with a solution of copper sulfate - from fungi and lichens.

If the seedlings survive the winter safely and receive proper care in the spring, the first berries will appear in July-August - depending on the ripening time of the variety.

The most difficult thing in autumn planting of any crop is choosing the right moment. If the planted raspberries open their buds before frost sets in, you won’t have to count on a harvest. Otherwise, planting raspberries in the fall is simple and represents a standard set of agrotechnical measures.

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Botanical description

Raspberry is a deciduous subshrub with a height of 1.5 to 2.5 m . The culture has a woody rhizome, around which many adventitious roots are formed. This contributes to the formation of a powerful branched root system.

The shrub is characterized
by erect stems .
Its young grassy shoots are distinguished by their rich green color, as well as their surface covered with a bluish coating and numerous small thorns. Within a year, the stems become brown and woody. At the end of fruiting, they dry out, and in the next season new young shoots appear in their place.

Raspberry leaf blades consist of 3-7 oval parts. Their front surface is distinguished by a dark green color, and the inner surface is whitish due to pubescence.

The racemose inflorescences of the shrub consist of small white flowers. As a rule, they appear in the second year of stem life.

The berry consists of numerous fused segments, which, depending on the variety, can have very different colors: crimson, yellow, burgundy-black, etc.

To date, breeders have developed a large number of raspberry varieties, including remontant varieties that bear fruit twice during one season.