What is pinching tomatoes and why should it be done?
In their natural habitat, tomatoes are perennial crops, in which, during development, the bush begins to branch quite actively. This vegetable crop grows freely only in Mexico with its endless and warm summers. Tomatoes spend the first 3-4 months developing roots, gaining green mass, and only after that they begin to form buds.
In the hot Mexican climate, tomatoes have an endless warm period. They have nowhere to rush. Over time, inflorescences form on each shoot, so tomatoes do not require pinching under natural growing conditions.
With such a short gardening season as in Russia, loyalty to the vegetable will lead to the events described above - you will get a decorative, but very beautiful flowering bush.
As the plant grows, side shoots appear from the axils of its leaves, which are considered stupid. In addition to their complete stupidity, they also take away nutrients from the fruits themselves, preventing them from growing and developing.
The appearance of these branches causes the bush to actively grow. For every useful branch, where the fruit will later be formed, as a rule, there are more than 6 useless ones.
These lateral branches are called “stepson”. As the bush develops, it is customary to remove them. This process is called stepsoning.
Pinching is a special agrotechnical procedure in vegetable growing aimed at increasing productivity. Pinching is necessary for optimal development of the bush through its correct formation.
Thus, after removing excess branches, only fruit-bearing ones remain on the bush, which allows for more efficient and targeted use of applied fertilizers and nutrients from the soil.
Particularly many unnecessary side shoots are formed on tall varieties, in which a branch with tomatoes is formed only in the area of 7-11 leaves.
Features, step-by-step instructions
Peculiarities:
- Stepping up is a must to get rid of unnecessary formations
- If this is not done, the tops will grow. This will worsen the ventilation of seedlings and provoke diseases.
- Their quality will deteriorate and tying will slow down.
Eliminating excess branches will improve the nutrition and development of tomatoes. It solves the following problems:
- Controls the growth of green mass
- Directs nutrients to accelerate the ripening of ovaries
- Provides seedlings with good ventilation
- Provides the right lighting
- Protects against diseases and insects
When breaking out side shoots, you should clarify which species is being processed. For each of them there are features of this procedure.
Breaking out side shoots
We need to pay attention to the following points:
Low-growing tomatoes run the risk of removing the tops on which future fruits should grow. Therefore, if in doubt, it is better to pinch such a process later.
The top is removed after the appearance of the fifth or sixth inflorescence.
In tall ones , a mass of branches is formed. If two main branches are formed, it is necessary to regulate the number of peduncles on them.
Medium-sized ones can be formed by two or three main branches. Sometimes, after the elimination of unnecessary formations, development stops. For such cases, it is necessary to leave up to two reserve branches that can replace the top.
Step-by-step instruction
- The elimination of side shoots begins 13 days after the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.
- The shoots are cut off when their size is no more than 6 cm
- When in doubt: a branch or a peduncle, you need to look at where it is growing from. If it comes from the axil and has leaves on it, it is an unnecessary formation that must be destroyed.
- Excess branches are broken off by hand or with sharp scissors or pruning shears. Tools must be disinfected before starting work and each time you move to the next bush.
Attention! To prevent new branches from growing in place of the removed ones, it is necessary to leave stumps 1.8 cm thick.
- The procedure is carried out in the morning.
- Watering should be done the night before. Then the stepsoning will be painless.
- Excess formations are removed: in open ground - every 11 days, under film cover - every 7 days.
- In regions where summers are short, all unnecessary branches are destroyed to ensure rapid ripening.
- Leaves in contact with the soil and shading the fruiting plants must also be disposed of.
- After the procedure, the plants must be given time to recover, and then watered and fertilized.
The benefits of pinching
- Fruit ripening occurs 2 weeks earlier;
- you get more ripe tomatoes by the end of the season;
- tomatoes grow to large sizes;
- the likelihood of contracting infections is reduced, as the bush itself becomes less dense;
- tomatoes get more sunlight;
- sugars accumulate in the pulp in greater quantities.
To achieve the desired result, the bush formation procedure must be carried out competently and systematically.
Let's look at the operation in more detail. Below are step-by-step instructions, formation schemes, features of working with different varieties, approaches to the procedure in a greenhouse and on open ground.
What to do if the stepsons of tomatoes are overgrown?
Well, that happens. During the next audit, you missed the developing unplanned stepson, and a week later it has already outgrown and looks more like a full-fledged stem. What to do? You have 2 options:
- Cut off the stepson with a sharp knife or pruning shears, cover the wound with ash. The wound will be large, you need to act carefully. It is better not to remove other stepsons from the plant on this day.
- Leave the stepson. In principle, nothing bad will happen if you grow a plant with more stems than you expected. As a last resort, after a flower cluster has formed on the stepson, you can pinch it painlessly. That's all. The bush will continue to develop according to your planned pattern + one additional brush.
When to plant tomatoes
The main rule of a fighter with stepchildren is the correct choice of time and procedure.
The very first pinching is carried out 14 days after planting the seedlings in the ground, as soon as the flowers in the lower cluster open. After the first stepsoning, this operation will need to be repeated regularly - every 10-14 days.
This period was not chosen by chance. It will allow you not to miss all the newly growing shoots, and will prevent the bush from thickening.
It is important to remember that in reality, the timing of stepsoning may be blurred. Some vegetable growers carry out this operation already when they are gartering tomatoes.
For pinching, choose a warm, clear day, and do the procedure in the morning, so that by the evening the wounds from pruning or breaking off have time to heal.
The most optimal time is from 9 to 11 o'clock.
Common mistakes
If you make mistakes when planting, diseases will appear and plant development will weaken.
Errors:
- Removal of excess formations over a long period of time. It is necessary to inspect the plants weekly, removing unnecessary shoots
- Instead of the stepson, removing the peduncle. It must be remembered that the shoot grows from the axil and the inflorescences appear on the main trunk
- Cutting tools are not disinfected
- The bush is formed from a large number of branches
How to distinguish a stepson from a fruit cluster
The shoot, which is called the stepson, may develop a stem, but not a fruit-bearing branch. In order not to confuse a fruitful branch with a “dummy”, which are so similar at the beginning, let the shoots grow to 4-5 cm. This length, as a rule, is enough to see the difference.
First sign
On the shoot of the “stepchild” the buds of leaves are visible, and on the future fruitful branch – the rudiments of buds. There are no leaves on such a branch.
Second sign
Branches with fruits grow directly from the stem at a short distance from the rest of the shoots. Lateral stems are formed directly in the axils of the leaves - at the junction of the petiole and stem.
If you suspect an abnormal development of the plant, which is also possible, then leave the sprout for a day. Since the shoots grow quite quickly, in just a few hours there will be clear differences from the fruit-bearing branch.
Depending on the variety, tomatoes branch and form differently. Bushes of indeterminate (tall) varieties are most susceptible to growth. Without pinching, they can turn into a real tree, from which you most likely will not get fruit.
Such tomatoes need not only to be pinched, but also pinched, that is, the growth of the central stem must be limited.
By solving the problem of how to properly plant tomatoes in a greenhouse or garden, you can ensure the correct formation of this vegetable crop. Moreover, the option of forming the bushes themselves depends on the chosen scheme for carrying out this procedure. There are several of them.
Can knives or scissors be used?
You can use scissors or a knife to remove excess branches.
Removing foliage with scissors
Certain rules must be followed:
- The sharpness of the blades should be razor-like so as not to cause major damage when cutting
- You need to cut accurately and quickly so as not to injure other parts of the plant.
Carefully! When moving to another bush, the blades should be disinfected in a solution of manganese (1%) or bleach (1%)
Experienced gardeners recommend that it is better not to cut off unnecessary formations, but to break them off. In this case, you need to make sure that the juice does not get on your fingers.
Three pinning schemes
As mentioned above, the option for forming bushes depends on the chosen scheme for the pinching procedure. The question of how to form tomato bushes can be solved in three ways, depending on how many branches are left.
The following types of procedure are distinguished.
1 stem pattern
With this scheme, all side shoots are removed, leaving only the stem for future fruits. The main advantage with this option is the speed of ripening and the large size of the vegetables.
The downside is that the bush grows to a great height and requires obligatory garter. Otherwise, it is almost guaranteed to break under the weight of ripening tomatoes.
2 stem pattern
This scheme does not involve the removal of all stepchildren. In addition to the main stem, you must leave 1 side shoot. As a rule, the strongest shoot located directly under the first inflorescence is chosen.
We cut off the rest.
3 stem pattern
The principle is already clear. In addition to the main stem, we leave 2 side shoots.
Stepchildren that cannot be removed are selected as follows: we find the strongest branch next to the lower inflorescence, after which, in the immediate vicinity, we find another strong branch.
We cut off the rest.
Removing foliage
Why cut off
The average lifespan of leaves is 3 months. Afterwards they dry out, die, and become a burden. The process begins with the lower sheet plates. They will definitely be cut off.
The next reason for this operation is the large green mass.
It takes away nutrients. Vegetables grow small, tasteless, and take a long time to ripen.
Reference! The harvest will be saved by removing the leaf blades from below. This creates conditions for the appearance of inflorescences, ovaries and their maturation.
There is also a reason for this procedure: the leaves have contact with the soil. This can cause fungal diseases.
All leaves that are located below the first peduncle with ovaries are torn off.
The risk of contracting diseases from contact with the ground is reduced several times.
Trimming tomato foliage
In addition, moisture loss is reduced. Improves ventilation of tomatoes.
Such actions are especially important for the greenhouse.
You need to get rid of all yellow, drying leaves.
Leaves that create shade for ripening ovaries are useless.
How to remove it correctly?
Rules:
- To ensure that the wounds heal quickly, the operation is performed in the morning on a sunny day.
- You cannot pick off a large amount at the same time.
- There is no need to rush into breaking out the bottom plates.
- The torn material is burned.
This operation should begin after 9-15 days after the seedlings were planted.
First, yellowed and brown spots are removed. Then - healthy ones, located near the ground, thickening the crown. This has a positive effect on the appearance of new inflorescences.
The next stage is the period of ovary maturation. It is necessary to tear off the plates located under the first fruiting cluster, and part of the foliage that creates shade for the ripening tomatoes.
Carefully! If there is a danger of sunburn, protection should remain.
Leaf plates can be either broken off or trimmed.
In order for the petiole to break off easily, you need to pull it up. To disinfect the wound, sprinkle it with ash or soda.
If pruning is done with scissors or pruning shears, they must be dipped into a strong solution of potassium permanganate or soda each time you move to a new plant.
Choosing the right scheme for a greenhouse and an open bed
Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, as a rule, is carried out according to the 1st and 2nd schemes, since a 3-flowered bush is rarely formed in them. On open ground, the procedure can be carried out using any option, depending on the variety of tomatoes.
If we consider the pinching technology itself for a greenhouse and an open bed, then they have no differences. The first operation is carried out when buds appear, until the side shoots have grown more than 5 centimeters. With a larger size of the removed shoot, the likelihood of disease in the tomato bush increases. Then we carry out the procedure every 10-14 days.
Additional events
In addition to pinching, for the proper formation of a tomato bush, it is necessary to perform some other measures:
- remove excess leaves;
- tweezing the shoots (pinching the tops).
These procedures are carried out much simpler and less frequently, but also require the right approach.
Removing excess leaves
The need to remove excess leaves on tomatoes causes constant debate among experienced gardeners:
- some believe that immediately after the formation of ovaries, all leaves should be removed from the branches, leaving only those that grow at the top;
- Opponents of this agricultural technique argue that a decrease in green mass leads to disruption of biological processes and impairs the development of plants, therefore they recommend removing only dried leaves.
Summer tips: Do I need to remove leaves from tomatoes?
The best option would be to remove only the lowest leaves lying on the surface of the soil. Then the main stem will be well ventilated and illuminated by sunlight.
Pinching shoots
Pinching (translated from German as “removing the end”) is performed by pinching the tip of the shoot. This event is carried out after the required number of inflorescences are formed on the stem. Above each inflorescence you need to leave 3-5 leaves, and pinch off or cut off the rest. As a rule, pinching is carried out at the end of July.
After removing the top part, the growth of the branch stops, and new ovaries practically do not appear. This ensures the full formation and rapid ripening of existing fruits, since all nutrients are sent to them.
To understand as accurately as possible how to pincer the tops and how to remove the stepsons of a tomato, you should watch a video on the relevant topic. This procedure does not require special skills and does not take much time, but only correct execution will ensure positive results. First of all, this will extend the fruiting period, significantly increase productivity, accelerate ripening and improve the quality of tomatoes.
