How to prune a pear tree in the fall for beginners: diagrams and step-by-step instructions

Purpose of pruning fruit trees

Pruning fruit trees is an event aimed at regulating the growth of fruit trees, flowering and fruiting.
For each fruit tree, the method and extent to which pruning is carried out depends on the goals and characteristics of the development of the fruit trees. Pruning of fruit trees is carried out annually, starting from a two-year-old seedling and affects: the beginning of the period of entry into the fruiting period, the growth rate of fruit trees, the size of the harvest and the quality of fruits on fruit trees. Over time, fruit trees that are not pruned grow and thicken. Subsequently, the fruits become smaller and seasonality of fruiting begins to appear on fruit trees. Tree pruning helps combat the seasonality of fruiting, and tree pruning helps to most correctly form the crown of a fruit tree. Pruning of fruit trees is carried out in our organization only by experienced specialists with extensive experience.

Independent, illiterate pruning of trees can cause thickening of the crown in young plants and a delay in the fruiting period of trees. In fruit-bearing trees, shoot growth is delayed, which entails a decrease in frost resistance. Tree pruning also helps improve lighting conditions in the tree crown.

Pruning significantly improves the conditions for air and light nutrition of the tree as a whole. The leaf apparatus and root system work more intensively. Unlike other maintenance methods, pruning makes it possible to regulate the nutritional conditions of each individual part of the tree.

How pruning affects the health and fruiting of pears

The procedure allows the gardener to influence several life cycles of the tree at once:

• regulates growth force;
• prolongs life and fruiting;
• improves fruit quality;
• increases the amount of harvest;
• accelerates the onset of fruiting.

Pruning a pear tree can be:

• formative,
• supportive,
• rejuvenating.

You need to start forming a tree from the first year after planting. During the manipulation process, the foundation of the future crown is laid and the growth of fruit-bearing branches is stimulated. Crown shaping involves minimal removal of lateral branches before the age of fruiting.

Most gardens in the southern regions of Russia are planted with tree-like pears with a rounded crown type on a seed rootstock. Such trees have a long life cycle, their productive period lasts up to 50 years or even more.

Methods for pruning pears

The main disadvantage of a garden with this type of planting is that the fruit trees grow very tall and are difficult to cultivate. It is impossible to completely harvest a tall pear.

Recommendations from experts

Many new gardeners do not know that pruning patterns for old and young trees are very different. When planting seedlings, they are exposed to stress, the root system is often damaged, and therefore develop worse. The young tree spends energy on forming the crown and restoring the rhizomes. Trimming the branches after planting will help the pear grow roots faster. They will make it possible to obtain from the soil more useful substances necessary for the growth of fruit-bearing branches and the growth of fruits.

To properly form the crown, the main trunk is shortened every year, which saves time on pruning, because only dried, damaged and old branches can be removed. The procedure for trees older than a year is done twice a year. Experts recommend making a pyramidal crown for the pear.

The optimal time for shaping a pear is spring and autumn. When it reaches four years of age, it is advisable to begin the formation of the second tier of skeletal branches. After crossing the five-year mark, fewer and fewer young shoots grow every year, so pruning is carried out selectively. Particular attention should be paid to fruit-bearing branches so as not to remove it by mistake.

For perennial trees, rejuvenation is carried out. It consists of eliminating old branches and branches that no longer bear fruit. Thanks to the procedure, the crown is not only thinned out, which improves ventilation, but also the growth of new branches is stimulated. True, you shouldn’t hope for a bountiful harvest after it; there will still be small amounts of fruit.

Anti-aging pruning is performed at the end of winter or early spring. It is important that it is carried out before the juice begins to flow. Old specimens are less sensitive to frost than young ones. But it is still recommended to perform the operation at a temperature of about zero degrees.

Features of tops

A top is a non-fruitful branch that takes food from a tree. But since this part of the pear does not contribute force to the formation of the crop, it gives strong growth and competes with the central conductor. You can get rid of tops by cutting them into rings or gradually cultivating them by annual formation.

The ring is an influx at the point where the branch emerges from the base of the sole that feeds it. It is in this place that wounds inflicted on the tree heal faster. When pruning tops on apple and pear trees, there is a danger that instead of one trunk cut into a ring, several will appear. Apple trees are less prone to re-sprouting, but pear trees cannot be cut into rings in the spring:

1. Cutting the tops into a ring does not solve the problem. By autumn, several more powerful bachelor shoots will appear from each nest.
2. You need to tame the top, make it work for the harvest. Do not cut shoots from the trunk or branches of the first order into rings, work on their inclusion in the fruit-bearing tiers.
3. Keep a close eye on fresh growth in the summer, removing emerging tops by pinching. In the future, a branch will not develop that will need to be removed.

When pruning tops on apple and pear trees, the gardener uses various techniques, since these trees are formed based on their biological characteristics.

Tip 6: From the center to the periphery

When pruning in the fall, you need to remember that in the spring the first bud after the cut will begin to grow. It should be directed to the outer edge of the diameter so that the new branch does not grow deeper, but towards the center, expanding the diameter of the vegetative part of the pear. It is this advice that allows you to form the largest and most productive trees.

When should you prune a pear tree?

Sanitary pruning is carried out at any time of the year as needed. Pruning for living wood is best done in early spring (the exact timing depends on the area and weather). Early spring is the best time to prune live branches Shaping and pruning fruit trees are very important tasks.

Summer care

The summer pruning procedure is resorted to in case of emergency. It happens in the spring, when a gardener is in a hurry to prune pears, he makes mistakes and as a result, any branches that need to be removed remain on the tree.

These few branches begin to grow rapidly and shade other, more valuable fruit-bearing branches. In such options, pruning in the summer is allowed.

When pruning in summer, it must be taken into account that during this period there is intense sap flow in the wood of pears and cell sap may be released through wounds. To prevent this, you need to carefully cover the cut areas with special putty.

In the summer, it is also recommended to pinch out young shoots, since at this time they have not yet become woody and removing them is not difficult.

Thanks to summer pruning, leaf buds can be transformed into fruit buds, which is a beneficial phenomenon.

Is it possible to prune branches in winter?

Pruning can also be done in winter. The procedure carried out this season even has its advantages:

• the pear is in a state of deep peace and does not experience stress from wounds;
• healing of cuts occurs quite quickly;
• There is no sap flow in the branches, which makes them more pliable.

Winter pruning of pears is usually carried out in February, at temperatures less than 15 degrees below zero.

Autumn procedure

They begin pruning pears in the fall in November, after waiting for the leaves to fall. With this procedure, increased attention is paid to the sanitation of the tree crown.

Pruning in spring

If you plan to prune a pear in the spring, then this operation begins immediately after the snow melts, before active sap flow begins. First of all, those branches that froze in winter are cut out.

When pruning in spring, much attention is paid to the correct formation of the crown.

Pruning times by region

When we talk about the timing of autumn pruning of pears, it is impossible to name a suitable date for all regions. Even in a particular region, the weather in the fall of last year may differ from the weather conditions of the current year. This also needs to be taken into account.

In any area, when choosing the date for pruning a pear in the fall, you must first harvest the crop, wait until the leaves completely fall off the tree, and only then start pruning.

Important! To carry out the procedure, you need to choose a dry, sunny day in October so that there are at least 3 weeks left before the arrival of frost.

Below we give approximate dates for autumn pear pruning, typical for various regions of Russia and neighboring countries.

1. South of Russia. This region usually experiences a long autumn, with frosts arriving later than in other areas. Pruning can be done on one of the October days, when the air temperature is above zero.
2. Central Russia and Moscow region. The pruning procedure in these areas should be carried out between September 15 and October 5. At this time, the trees will have already shed their leaves, the sap flow will slow down, which is the optimal moment for carrying out such work.
3. Ural and Siberia. These regions are characterized by early autumn frosts and harsh winters. If you plan to do pruning in the fall, then you cannot delay it too much. The optimal period here should be considered the period from September 5 to the end of the first autumn month.
4. Leningrad region. Compared to the Moscow region, this is a more northern region - autumn frosts should be expected here a little earlier. The timing of the pruning procedure should be planned for the period from September 10 to October 6.
5. Ukraine. In the southern regions of the country, pruning should be planned for October, and in more northern areas, it should begin on September 25, and the work should be completed by mid-October.
6. Belarus. Since this country is located north of Ukraine, therefore, the pruning dates are shifted a week earlier. It is better if this work is carried out in the first half of October.

If the timing of pruning is chosen correctly, the pear will endure the procedure without complications, and next year it will delight you with vegetative growth and an excellent harvest.

Tip 3: Time

For pruning to be beneficial, it needs to be done at the right time. On the one hand, it is necessary that active growth has already stopped and the pear has begun to prepare for a state of dormancy, otherwise, after pruning in the fall, new shoots will begin to grow. Secondly, the sap flow should not stop completely: this is an important condition for the rapid healing of cut or cut sites.

Most often, the end of August-September is recommended for pruning. But you need to make allowances for the weather. In cold autumn, it is better to perform this procedure earlier, but in very hot years with a long summer, you can wait a week or two.

Required Tools

To perform pear pruning work, you will need the following tools and products for treating wounds after pruning:

• regular hand pruning shears (for thin branches);
• garden knife (for very thin branches and removing burrs);
• garden hacksaw (for thick branches);
• pruning shears with long handles (for upper thin branches);
• stepladder (for easy removal of upper branches);
• oil paint (based on drying oil) or just natural drying oil, linseed oil or brilliant green. Alternatively, you can mix iodine and alcohol (1 to 1), or buy garden varnish or a special “RanNet” paste.

Advice! All tools must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruning shears must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (and even better, disinfect them before pruning).

Forming features

To perform the pear pruning procedure in the fall, you need to know some nuances. Their essence is as follows:

• if the garden area is very large, then it is better to carry out pruning in several stages and in different seasons;
• some gardeners do not use pruning shears when pruning, but use an alternative method - the shoot is tied with a thin wire, which will eventually cut off the branch;
• When using pruning shears, make sure that the blade is facing the process;
• rapid healing of wounds is ensured by cutting into a ring, without leaving stumps and without deepening;
• in order to prevent the bark from scuffing, the shoot is cut first from below, and only then from above;
• large branches must be removed in parts;
• treat all wounds with garden varnish or paint over them;
• After thinning, feeding the tree is not required, since it has a sufficient supply of nutrition.

Excessive pruning at one time is unacceptable, as this is very stressful for the pear. As a result of such pruning, the growth of tops is activated.

Types of formation

Pruning pear trees is in many ways similar to pruning apple trees. There are many types of crown formation. Below we present the main ones:

• tiered;
• sparsely tiered;
• pyramidal;
• fusiform;
• cup-shaped.

The tiered type of formation has gained the most popularity. Sparse-tiered pruning is used on pears with ring-type fruiting.

Crown formation

Post-procedure care

It is not recommended to trim and process sections on the same day.

After pruning the branches and shoots, fresh cuts appear on the tree trunk. The wounds should be treated with garden varnish or drying oil paint. This will help protect the trees from upcoming cold spells. It is recommended to pre-dry the cut areas. If during the spring and summer the fruit tree received enough nutrition due to the applied fertilizers, then there is no need to add additional fertilizing.

Video: Pruning pears for beginners with detailed explanations

Following the rules and recommendations of experienced gardeners for pear care will not only allow you to form a strong and healthy tree, but also enjoy an excellent fruit harvest in the future.

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How to prune a pear tree correctly

With the arrival of autumn, owners of summer cottages and garden plots begin to plan activities aimed at preparing the garden for winter and the next season.

Figure 1. Example of correct pruning of a pear

Most often questions arise regarding pruning fruit trees. In this article you can familiarize yourself with the seasonal features of this procedure using the example of a pear, which is not only very tasty, but also an extremely useful garden crop.

Note: It is known that removing excess branches improves crop yield and fruit quality, regulates fruiting and growth, improves crown shape and helps improve its lighting.

Using this procedure, you can grow a strong tree of the desired shape and height, as well as maintain its productivity for a long time (Figure 1). During the process, many factors should be taken into account, among which the type of tree, in our case, pear, plays an important role.

Peculiarities

You should know that in young seedlings (up to 1 year), the trunks are shortened by 25% of their length in order to branch the crown. The side branches are shortened only to the first bud.

In the second year of life, the top of the main trunk should be shortened by 25-30 cm, and the side shoots by 6-8 cm. In this case, the lower branches should be longer than the upper ones, respectively, the shape of the crown should be in the shape of a pyramid. You should also know that the older the tree, the slower new shoots appear on it. For sufficiently mature specimens, the need for formative pruning occurs once every three years.

Sanitary pruning

This type of pruning is carried out in order to remove damaged, disease-affected and abnormally growing shoots from the tree. The procedure helps to form a neat crown. Sanitary pruning is carried out at any time of the year.

Thinning pruning

• First, you need to get rid of all crooked branches (growing through other branches or crossing, “rubbing against each other”) and branches growing into the crown that are shading good branches.

By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting them “to a ring”), or they can be transferred “to fruiting” by cutting them “to a bud”, and it should look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be pointless).

• Branches that grow at a very acute angle (i.e., the angle of departure is less than 40-45 degrees) and form so-called “forks” are completely unnecessary; they are also cut out (due to the load of fruit, the branch can simply crack and a severe wound is formed).

• As you understand from the picture above, in addition, you need to cut off all the branches growing downwards (at an obtuse angle).
• All tops (vertical shoots on skeletal branches, also called “wen”), as well as root shoots, must be removed.

By the way! Tops can be used for grafting.

• You also need to cut out all the shoots located below the first tier (so that they do not hang directly above the ground).

In short, all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree should be pruned.

• It is very important not to leave competing branches (or thus replace old ones with new ones), pruning them “for translation”.

This is especially true for branches that compete with the conductor (the main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.

However, thick branches should not be pruned in one year. It is better to first remove most of the second-order branches, and next year get rid of the competitor completely.

Shortening (stimulating)

This pruning method involves shortening the branch to a certain size, and not completely to a ring. Usually the cut is made on the 3rd bud. This allows skeletal branches to develop and increased fruit formation. This procedure can be done not only with new shoots, but also with old branches. Shortening can be of 3 types:

• Strong pruning - to form strong branches, the cut is made by 1/3;
• Medium - the cut is made at 1/4;
• Weak shortening - to form a fruit tree, the cut is made to 1/5 of the branch.

Formative pruning of pear

With the help of formative pruning, we lay the foundation for the health of the pear tree in the future and program its longevity. The differences in the formation of the crown of a pear are due to the characteristics of its growth and development.

Many pear varieties have low shoot-forming ability with high growth vigor. This leads to the fact that every year a strong growth is formed in the form of powerful shoots that are directed almost vertically and at the same time they practically do not branch. Fruit branches do not form on such growth for a long time, so gardeners often complain about the late (after 7-8 years) pear fruiting.

3 techniques will help to weaken the growth of shoots and speed up the process of formation of fruit buds:

• pinching (summer pruning),
• shortening pruning,
• deviation of shoots.

Rejuvenating

The purpose of this type of pruning is to rejuvenate the old pear tree. This procedure is carried out exclusively in the spring in stages. Below we will describe in more detail about the formative and rejuvenating pruning methods. Then we will get acquainted with the basic rules provided for these types of pruning. They can be used on all ages of pear trees.

Work in different seasons

When to prune trees and how to cover cuts on fruit trees

The formation of a pear crown can occur all year round. In addition to the specifics of working with trees of different ages, there are general pruning rules that should be followed in each season.

Pruning in spring

Most gardeners agree that spring pruning is more beneficial for the tree. The leaf has not woken up, the movement of juice is minimal, which means that the pear will more easily withstand the appearance of cuts

It is important that spring frosts are excluded in the near future, and the weather does not frighten with sudden changes in temperature values

Spring pruning of pears in the southern regions is carried out from early to mid-March, in mid-latitudes and to the east - no earlier than early April. During the day, the sun should heat the air to at least 5 degrees above zero.

Spring is especially successful for working with very young pear seedlings, 1-2 years old. For other trees, in general, pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Remove shoots damaged by frost.
• “Standing”, crooked, fraying shoots are cut off. First of all, those extending from the central conductor. They cut at an angle of 90 degrees or very close to that.
• The trunk is cut to a quarter of its height.

To prevent the bark from being damaged when cutting into a ring, first make a cut from below and only then the main cut from above. After shortening the pear branches, the lateral branches begin to grow more actively, and the buds “wake up” under the cuts.

Summer manipulations

Summer pruning of pear trees is carried out when absolutely necessary. Allowed only in June. Remove broken, dead, stunted pear shoots and excess “young shoots”. When pruning shoots, part of the green leaves that feed the plant is removed, so global crown formation is not allowed.

More often they use the pinching method - young, unnecessary shoots of the pear in the upper part are pinched with fingernails. Due to this, their entire top is removed down to the hardened area and the branches stop lengthening. The advantage of summer pruning is that the pear stops wasting energy on the development of vines and gives more “nutrition” to the fruits.

Things to do in autumn

In the autumn season, pear pruning is called “sanitary”.
The tree is removed from all shrunken and damaged branches, the annual shoots are cut to a third of the height, not forgetting to leave some fresh buds below for the formation of new lines. Features of pruning - it is carried out only for early-ripening and medium-sized varieties of pears. The cut remains are burned

It is important that 2-3 weeks after the “procedure” the tree is not “caught” by frost, therefore the best period for autumn pruning of pears in most growing regions is considered to be the beginning of September. The minimum low temperature for operation should not go beyond 0 degrees

It must be remembered that to heal autumn wounds, the pear will spend those beneficial substances that can still be very useful to it in winter.

Is it possible to form a crown in winter?

Pruning pear trees in winter is not recommended. If the air and soil freeze seriously, the plant can quickly die. Those who are definitely determined to do winter work can carry out pruning in winter from the first days of November to the beginning of March.

February is usually chosen if it is not colder than 15 degrees below zero. Trim the height of the pear and too “scattered” shoots. Work begins with mature trees, the buds of which “wake up” earlier than those of young ones.

Work plans

The process differs depending on the age and condition of the tree, so you need to choose the appropriate option and follow the instructions. This does not apply to situations where broken and diseased parts are removed; here the recommendations are always the same: determine to what extent the shoot is damaged, retreat 4-5 cm, cut along healthy wood.

Saplings

Properly pruning a pear tree in the spring in the first year after planting is not difficult, since there are few shoots and the work will take literally a few minutes. Be sure to treat all cuts with garden varnish or copper sulfate solution to prevent infection from penetrating into the wood through them; it is especially important to do this during periods of high humidity. The process looks like this:

1. Shorten the central conductor by 3-4 buds or at least 10 cm. This stimulates increased growth of lateral shoots and helps to form a crown faster.
2. If there are branches, shorten them by 10-20 cm, it all depends on the size of the seedling and the length of the shoots. Be sure to cut off at least a few cm.

Work in the first year is important due to the fact that the root system has not yet adapted and under heavy loads the plant becomes depleted or dies. Shortening all parts will slow down growth, rooting will be much faster and better.

Two-year-old trees

Pruning a young pear in the spring a year after planting should be done according to different rules. During this time, the seedling usually adapts well, grows and produces at least several branches. During this period, remember several important recommendations:

1. Choose the 3 strongest branches located on different sides. They form the skeleton of the tree in the future; select branches located at an angle of no more than 70 degrees. The distance between them on the trunk should not be less than 10 cm.
2. Cut off into a ring everything located below the first shoot, which must be left. Remove all other shoots that are not needed.
3. Shorten the remaining branches by about a third. Moreover, choose a place so that the outermost bud looks up.
4. Cut off the top too. Usually about a third is removed, if it is high, leave at least 50 cm.

Select branches at approximately the same level and form the lower tier. When shortening, make an angle of 45 degrees, so the cut dries much faster. Use a sharp tool and cause as little damage to the plants as possible.

Works for 3, 4 and 5 years

This is the period of the most active development. Most often, fruiting has not yet begun or there are few fruits, so the pear uses all its resources to grow shoots and strengthen the root system. During this period, pruning is done so as to form fruit tiers, and this should be done according to the following recommendations:

1. In the 3rd year, leave 3 more branches at a height of 80 to 90 cm above the first. Put everything else on the ring. Shorten the top and shoots by 15-20 cm.
2. After another year, make a third tier, while shortening the shoots and the top in the same way as described above.
3. In the 5th year you will complete the formation. Cut off the central part completely, transfer the growth to one of the branches, so the pear will not stretch upward and will turn out to be spreading. Shorten all branches by about a third.

Usually at this moment the height is up to 4 m; if everything is done correctly, the crown is formed by the beginning of active fruiting. After this, carry out the work according to the same instructions, since there will no longer be any special differences in development.

Advice! It is best to remove cut branches from the site and burn them, since disease spores and pest larvae often overwinter at the ends of the shoots.

Mature tree

The procedure for pruning an adult tree must be done very carefully. Many gardeners are afraid to prune because they may remove more branches than they should. However, strong growth of the crown leads to an increase in excess green mass and the tree stops its development.

Thinning pruning of a neglected pear:

• Trimming shoots from the trunk. The first step is to clear the main trunk of the pear from unnecessary shoots. They should be cut at right angles. After this, the branches that grow upward and are located parallel to the main trunk are removed.
• Prevent the formation of stumps. During work, you need to act so that no stumps remain on the trunk. However, you need to be careful not to cut more than required, otherwise the wounds will heal for a long time and the tree will suffer.
• Particular attention must be paid to pruning large branches with a diameter of 3 cm or more. In this case, you need to use a special technique for cutting the branch. First, the branch is cut from below, and then from above. This will make it possible to keep the bark intact.

Important! With a single cut, a heavy branch will break off along with a large piece of bark and wood.

• Be sure to treat the sections with special means.
• Carry out work within the required time frame.

Old tree

The old pear tree first of all needs significant rejuvenation. It begins by trimming the top of the crown with shoots to 1/3 of the height; it is permissible to shorten the trunk even by half. In the remaining part of the crown, it is advisable to preserve two tiers of skeletal branches (5-6 pieces). There is an interval of about a meter between tiers.

Trimming the crown of an old pear tree

The main branches of the tree are shortened. They should not be left longer than 4 meters, since they will bend towards the ground under the weight of the fruit. Then thinning pruning is carried out, removing shoots that thicken or are directed into the crown. You can safely prune old thick branches that bear little fruit - their productive capabilities are depleted. It is better to replace them with new shoots.

Differences between the procedure for young and mature trees

When intensive pruning is planned, it must be done in several approaches.
If you do this at once - in one procedure - the tree can experience great stress. Types of pruning depend not only on the time of year, but also on the age and type of tree. Failure to follow the procedure can lead not only to a decrease in the yield of fruit trees, but also to their death.

Young trees that have not yet begun to bear fruit require measures to properly form the skeleton and crown. Adults prune so that the nutrition is properly distributed throughout the tree, and this will help in the future to get a rich harvest of healthy pears.

Pruning seedlings

When planting seedlings, crown formation begins immediately. In autumn, it is necessary to shorten the trunk at a height of 80 to 100 cm. This procedure will accelerate the development of the root system. Limiting the tree's growth in its first year will prevent load-bearing branches from growing too high. You need to trim the top with a knife or pruning shears above the bud.

Pruning pears in the second year

A two-year-old tree has from 8 to 10 shoots. In the fall, it is necessary to form the skeletal branches of the future adult specimen. For proper growth and development, half of the branches should be left, evenly distributed around the trunk. The central trunk should be approximately 20 cm higher than other branches.

Pruning a three-year-old pear

The older the tree, the more pruning manipulations are required. An already formed plant must be pruned with skill. The procedure is as follows:

1. Trim branches competing with the central conductor.
2. Remove branches that grow incorrectly: at too sharp or right angles to the trunk.
3. Shorten all branches by about a quarter.
4. Remove root shoots.
5. Trim the tops.

Pruning an adult pear

Trees older than eight years need rejuvenation measures. By this age, the crown becomes too thick and overgrown. Only the growth of young shoots decreases. Due to the scale of the work, the work should be divided into several stages, distributing them evenly across the seasons.

Is pruning different for different types?

All the methods and means that we touched on in detail in other sections of this article mostly apply to pears that grow on vigorous rootstocks. However, there are other species that also deserve attention.

Advantages and disadvantages of columnar pear

Why is the columnar pear so attractive? Here are the advantages noted by experts and ordinary amateurs:

• these pears always have a high yield;
• high planting density, allowing significantly more trees to be planted per unit area;
• such seedlings take root well;
• The fruits of such pears are quite large;
• is resistant to major diseases;
• good winter hardiness.

The disadvantages of such a pear include:

• the shape and size of the tree require regular pruning;
• The fruiting period is only 10 years.

Formation of the crown of a columnar pear

In the last three decades, columnar pears have begun to appear in the gardens and cottages of fruit growing enthusiasts and they have managed to prove themselves well. Pruning it compares favorably with the same procedure on tall pears.

1. In the first year after planting, the pear tree should not be allowed to bloom so that the seedling first gains strength for subsequent growth.
2. In the second year, care must be taken not to overload the young plant with fruits, the weight of which could simply cause it to break. For this purpose, only 2 flowers are left in each inflorescence.
3. When pruning, always pay attention to the topmost bud. If everything is fine with it, then the tree has a central conductor. If this bud is damaged, then the central conductor should be made from the strongest remaining shoot. The remaining shoots must be removed.
4. Too often, the columnar pear is not pruned, since this always provokes the active regrowth of new shoots. In a 2-4 year old plant, shoots should be shortened, not cut off, each time leaving a segment with 2 buds.
5. Pruning is carried out in the autumn. Its main purpose is to cut off all side shoots growing in different directions. The central conductor is cut only when it is poorly developed. After the procedure, there should be 2 kidneys left on it.

Processing dwarf pear

Dwarf pears are very easy to care for and have high yields.

Dwarf tree varieties have long been recognized by gardeners. They require less care than tall specimens. Such trees are especially valued in regions with cold climates. They are easier to protect from frost. Proper pruning of this pear variety is required starting from the first year of planting. The seedling is pruned, leaving up to 50 cm of the trunk. In the second and third years, you just need to shorten the overgrown branches and the conductor.

Subsequently, dwarf pears undergo autumn sanitary treatment every year. It is necessary to remove dry or frozen branches and young shoots. Correct and regular pruning slows down the active growth of fruit-bearing trees. It is important that nutrients are distributed correctly, favorably influencing the future harvest.

How to care for a tree after pruning

Follow simple rules, thereby protecting the pear from disease and speeding up healing. It is very important to disinfect instruments before and after each use. It is also worth treating the cutting parts when moving to each new plant, so as not to transfer diseases. Carry out the work like this:

1. Remove branches from the area. Ideally, burn them or dispose of them in any convenient way.
2. Treat sections with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Simply lubricate to protect against infections.
3. Large saw cuts should be covered with garden varnish or painted over with oil paint. Do this the next day to allow the surface to dry a little.
4. Treat the tree and the ground underneath with a solution of copper sulfate. Apply generously with a garden sprayer.
5. Use a plastic or wooden scraper to remove loose bark from the trunk. Whitewash it and the lower part of the skeletal branches.

If egg-laying pest larvae are found on the bark, remove them from the surface. Damage to the bark and frost holes should be cleaned back to healthy wood and covered with garden varnish; this is the easiest way to ensure healing.

Common Mistakes

When cleaning a pear tree in spring, you should not make any mistakes, as this has a bad effect on the condition of the plant. Therefore, before starting the procedure, it is recommended to thoroughly study all the rules in order to eliminate possible errors.

Important! You cannot use a blunt instrument, as it will leave wounds and hangnails on the bark of the branches, after which the tree in these places will begin to rot.

It is important to prune the pear at a certain time, otherwise it will take a long time to recover and lose its immunity.

When cleaning the plant, there should be no stumps left from the cutting. The pruning procedure must be carried out along the ring. This method will help the tree to heal the wound on its own or create an influx of bark. In this case, in the future the bark will not collapse and rot.

Branches that grow at an angle of 30 degrees to the trunk are removed first, even if they are strong and promising. Leave branches extending from the trunk at 45 degrees.

Important! The crown of the pear should be formed immediately from the first year, otherwise pruning will be difficult in subsequent years.

The pear tree grows slowly and lives for many years, but the quality of the fruit and productivity depend on proper care, including proper pruning. Otherwise, the tree will rise greatly in height, and fruits will sometimes appear on the upper branches.

Pruning dates according to the lunar calendar 2022

With the onset of autumn, summer residents begin another period of caring for plants. Now we will figure out how pear pruning is carried out according to the lunar calendar 2022.

Lunar cycles affect all animal and plant organisms. The movement of juices in plants occurs more actively during the waning Moon, under all signs of the Zodiac, with the exception of Aquarius, Pisces and Cancer.

According to the Lunar calendar, the following days will be favorable for pruning pears in the fall of 2022:

• September: 1, 6, 7, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28;
• October: 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 12, 13, 25, 29, 30, 31;
• November: 4, 5, 9, 10, 25, 26, 27, 28.

Unfavorable days for pruning are when the Moon changes its cycle, becoming a full moon or new moon. In addition, it is highly not recommended to carry out the pruning procedure during the waxing moon.

With this satellite phase, the movement of juices is in an upward direction, the cuts will become very painful for the pear.

The following days are considered unfavorable pruning dates according to the Lunar calendar 2018:

• September: 2, 9, 25;
• October: 1, 9, 24;
• November: 1, 7, 23.