Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Published: August 04, 2016Last edits: January 06, 2021
- When to plant savoy cabbage in the ground
- Caring for Savoy cabbage
- Diseases of savoy cabbage
- Early savoy cabbage
- Beneficial properties of savoy cabbage
Savoy cabbage is a vegetable crop, one of the subspecies of garden cabbage. It belongs to the sabuada varietal group. Savoy cabbage comes from North Africa and the western Mediterranean. The name of the crop was given in honor of the Italian county of Savoy, where it has been grown for a long time. In our country, Savoy cabbage has not become widespread due to the erroneous assumption that it is capricious, but in Europe, Central and East Asia this subspecies is widely cultivated.
Planting and caring for Savoy cabbage
- Planting: sowing seeds for seedlings - in early or mid-March, planting seedlings in the ground - at the end of April or early May.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- Soil: sandy loam, loamy and light loamy, with a pH of 6.5-7.0.
- Watering: for the first time - every other day or two at a consumption of 8 liters of water per m², after rooting of the seedlings - once a week at a consumption of up to 13 liters of water per m².
- Feeding: a week after planting the seedlings - mullein solution (1:10) or liquid mineral complex: per 10 liters of water - 15 g of urea, 40 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. During the formation of heads of cabbage - a solution of a mineral complex with a double dose of potassium and phosphorus fertilizer.
- Reproduction: seed.
- Pests: affected by cruciferous and black flea beetles, click beetles, cutworms, sprout flies, bugs, secretive proboscis, mole crickets, white moths, cabbage flies and slugs.
- Diseases: black leg, black ring spot, tracheomycosis, phomosis (or dry rot), vascular bacteriosis, downy mildew, clubroot, white, Alternaria and mosaic.
Read more about growing Savoy cabbage below.
Seedling care
When seedlings appear, the cover is removed. They are moved to light, but so that the temperature does not drop below 8-9 degrees at night.
Creating optimal conditions
For seedlings, maintain a stable temperature regime:
- 15-17 degrees during the day;
- 9-10 degrees at night.
If the temperature is lower, this will affect the quality of the crop - the heads will be crushed and will be loose.
Watering
Water with settled water at room temperature. Seedlings need irrigation as the surface layer of the substrate dries. The crops are regularly loosened.
Lighting
The seedlings do not get enough sunlight even on south-facing windows. Additionally, phytolamps and LED lamps are used to maintain lighting. Seedlings receive additional light for about 11-14 hours per day.
Picking
It is carried out at the stage of cotyledon leaves or when the first true leaf is formed. Seedlings are transplanted into pots or cups of 0.3-0.5 liters. Can be used for young bushes:
- cassette;
- boxes;
- organic cubes.
Before the procedure, pour plenty of water to facilitate the release of the roots. The roots dive down to 1/3 of their length.
The day before, they are additionally treated with copper sulfate to prevent blackleg and rot. The soil is made up of garden turf, peat and sawdust treated with fertilizers. You will need 1 bucket of sawdust and the following minerals:
- 10 grams of ammonium nitrate;
- 25 grams of lime;
- 12 granules of superphosphate.
The composition is thoroughly mixed and infused for about 2 days. Transplanted seedlings are watered with light pink 1% potassium permanganate. Protect from bright light for 5-7 days, creating light partial shade. Features of the temperature regime after picking:
- The first three days maintain 17-18 degrees;
- As it takes root, the temperature is lowered to 12-14 degrees during the day and 10-12 at night.
Feeding
For active growth, seedlings need additional nutrition. Feeding is carried out in the following sequence:
Sequence | Deadlines | What is used |
First | At the stage of 2 true leaves | A complex solution based on minerals is diluted in two liters of liquid - Kemira Lux, Krepysh |
Second | A week before the pick | For 1 liter add: 2 g potassium sulfate 4 g superphosphate 2 g ammonium nitrate |
Third | A week after the dive | The solution includes: 1 liter of water 4 g potassium salts 7 g superphosphate 4 g ammonium nitrate |
Fourth | 2-3 days before being seated in a stationary place | Dilute in 1 liter of water: 8 g potassium compound 5 g phosphorus salts 3 g ammonium nitrate |
One liter of solution with minerals is enough to feed 60 seedlings.
Hardening
The procedure begins 9-10 days before the planned transplant.
How to spend your days correctly:
- For 1-2 days, keep the seedlings in a room with an open window for 3-4 hours;
- From days 3 to 6 they are taken out onto the loggia, veranda and glassed-in balcony. Protect from the scorching effects of the spring sun with gauze;
- On days 6-7, reduce the amount of watering. Place the boxes on the balcony where the seedlings are kept until transplanting.
Plants are ready for planting when there are 4-5 true leaves.
Savoy cabbage - description
What kind of savoy cabbage? How to distinguish Savoy cabbage from other varieties of cabbage? Like white cabbage, it produces large heads, but not as large and looser, while the crinkled dark green leaves of Savoy cabbage are much thinner. That, in fact, is all that externally distinguishes Savoy cabbage from white cabbage. Savoy cabbage is frost-resistant. Its immediate relatives are turnips, rutabaga, radishes, radishes and mustard, as well as all other types of cabbage.
We will tell you how and when to sow Savoy cabbage for seedlings, how Savoy cabbage grows in open ground, what varieties of Savoy cabbage exist, what are the benefits of Savoy cabbage and what are its contraindications.
Requirements for soil, temperature and humidity
Savoy cabbage is a light-loving plant. Long daylight hours have a beneficial effect on the formation of heads of cabbage.
Of all types of cabbage, Savoy cabbage is highly frost-resistant. Some of its late-ripening varieties are especially resistant to cold. Seed germination occurs already at a temperature of +3°C, and intensive seedling growth occurs at 16-18°C. Temporary cold snaps down to 8 °C slow down the development of plants, but do not stop it. Sprouts of medium and early varieties tolerate short-term frosts down to -1-2 °C, late ones - up to -5-6 °C.
Savoy cabbage seedlings tolerate a lack of moisture better than other types of cabbage, but adult plants are moisture-loving. Moisture evaporates intensely through large leaves, and plants need regular watering.
The culture prefers fertile soils and is responsive to fertilizers. Late varieties are more demanding on feeding than early varieties. When growing Savoy cabbage in the Urals and the Middle Zone, mainly mineral fertilizers are used. The specificity of these regions is such that only early ripening varieties have time to form in a short summer. Plants develop quickly, but organic matter rots slowly, lagging behind this process.
Bad predecessors of Savoy cabbage are: radishes, turnips, cabbage, tomatoes; good ones are potatoes, carrots, legumes. The arrangement of Savoy cabbage needs to be changed annually. It is recommended to replant the vegetable in the beds no earlier than after 4 years (see photo of Romanesco cabbage).
Growing Savoy cabbage from seeds
When to sow savoy cabbage for seedlings
If you want to get Savoy cabbage in early July, buy seeds of early varieties and sow them for seedlings in early or mid-March. Late varieties are sown for seedlings in mid-April.
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Before sowing, the seeds must undergo treatment: place them in water at a temperature of 50 ºC for a quarter of an hour, then dip them in ice water for a minute, then put them in a solution of microelements for 12 hours, then rinse them with clean water, keep them in the refrigerator for a day, remove them and dry them. so that the seeds do not stick to your hands.
Growing Savoy cabbage seedlings
Sow the seeds of Savoy cabbage in a soil mixture spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, consisting of equal parts of turf soil, sand and peat. In a damp substrate, make shallow grooves at intervals of 3 cm from one another, sow seeds in them in increments of 1 cm, carefully plant them to a depth of 1 cm, cover the crops with glass and keep them at a temperature of 18 ºC, sprinkling the substrate with water as needed. Sprouts may appear within five days or a week. As soon as the shoots appear, remove the covering and move the crops to a bright place where the temperature is not higher than 8 ºC.
Savoy cabbage pick
In the development phase of cotyledon leaves or the first true leaf, seedlings are planted in separate pots. Before picking, the seedlings are well watered to make it easier to remove the seedlings from the soil, and during transplantation their roots are shortened by a third of their length.
The transplanted plants are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. For several days after picking, savoy cabbage seedlings need protection from direct sunlight. The temperature of the seedlings for the first three days should be 17-18 ºC, and when the seedlings take root, it is lowered to 13-14 ºC during the day and 10-12 ºC at night. As the soil dries, it is moistened with water at room temperature, and when the first pair of true leaves develop, the seedlings are fed with a solution of a teaspoon of complex fertilizer and a tablet containing microelements in 2 liters of water.
Planting seedlings
Savoy cabbage, which is native to countries with warmer climates, has certain growing characteristics. To get a harvest, you will need to plant this plant with seeds, and then plant seedlings in open ground.
Preparing and sowing seeds
To get an early harvest of Savoy cabbage in early or mid-July, you will need to purchase early varieties of the plant. In this case, sowing is carried out in March. Later varieties for seedlings need to be sown a little later, in April.
To increase the germination of seeds and their immunity, preventive treatment of planting material should be carried out before sowing. The procedure is performed in several stages:
- First, the seeds are placed in water heated to 50 degrees for 15 minutes;
- Then they are lowered into ice water for a minute;
- The final stage of processing will be placing the seeds in a growth stimulator. The seeds are kept in a solution with microelements for about 12 hours.
After the allotted time has passed, the planting material is washed in warm water and dried a little so that the seeds do not stick to your hands.
Preparing seedlings
To sow Savoy cabbage seeds, use nutritious soil, which should first be shed with a solution of potassium permanganate. It is best to use a mixture of sand, wood ash and peat. Each component is taken in equal quantities. A distance of 3 cm is maintained between the rows, the seeds are located at a distance of 1 cm from each other and are planted to a depth of 1 cm.
The optimal temperature for seed germination is 18 degrees. It is important to organize greenhouse conditions, for example, cover with glass. After sprouting, the containers with the sprouts are opened and transferred to a room with a temperature no higher than 8 degrees.
Picking procedure
After the first true leaf appears, the seedlings should be planted in separate pots.
Before picking, you need to thoroughly water the plantings. This will help preserve the root system as much as possible, since when cabbage is removed from the soil, the root becomes three times shorter.
Immediately after picking, you should water the seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The crop should not grow in direct sunlight for a couple of days. Until the seedlings take root, the temperature should be about 17-18 degrees, after which it should be maintained within 13-14. After the formation of the second true leaf, fertilizing should be done. A teaspoon of complex fertilizer and 1 tablet with microelements are diluted in 2 liters of water.
Hardening
Before transferring Savoy cabbage seedlings to a permanent place in open ground, it is important to harden them so that the cabbage takes root much faster.
They begin to harden the seedlings 14 days before planting, in several stages:
- For the first two days, it’s enough to simply open the window for 4-6 hours;
- Then, for 8 days, the plants are brought out onto the loggia and balcony, shading the seedlings from the sun. At night, the seedlings are put back into the room;
- 4 days before transferring to a permanent place, the seedlings can be left in the loggia for a full day.
A week before transferring the seedlings to the garden bed, you should stop watering. Seedlings in containers are watered very heavily 2 hours immediately before planting.
Planting Savoy cabbage in open ground
When to plant savoy cabbage in the ground
Savoy cabbage is planted in open ground when the seedlings already have 2-3 pairs of true leaves. Two weeks before planting, foliar feeding of the seedlings is carried out, spraying them with a solution of a tablespoon of urea and the same amount of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water, after which the seedlings begin to harden, daily taking the seedlings for a while to the balcony or terrace, where the air temperature is not lower than 5 ºC, and gradually increasing the duration of stay in temperature conditions close to garden ones.
But keep in mind that seedlings are afraid of drafts. When the seedlings can spend the whole day in the fresh air, you can begin to transplant them into the garden bed.
Soil for savoy cabbage
How does Savoy cabbage grow? What conditions does she need for normal growth and development? It is better to place beds for Savoy cabbage on southern or south-eastern slopes, since it needs warmth and bright light. The location for savoy cabbage needs to be changed annually. Sandy, clayey and acidic soils are not suitable for the crop - the optimal soil acidity is pH 6.5-7.0. Savoy cabbage grows well on light loamy, loamy and sandy soils.
The best precursors for Savoy cabbage are considered to be onions, beets, tomatoes, beans, potatoes, cucumbers and perennial herbs, and the worst are all varieties of cabbage, radishes, radishes, turnips, rutabaga and watercress. After cruciferous vegetables, you can plant savoy cabbage only after 4-5 years.
How to plant savoy cabbage
How to plant Savoy cabbage in open ground? Planting is preceded by mandatory site preparation in the fall. The soil in the garden bed is subjected to deep digging, they wait for the weeds to sprout, remove them, after which they carry out uniform liming and dig up the area again. In the spring, 3-4 kg of rotted manure or compost, 30-40 g of complex mineral fertilizer or 100-200 g of wood ash are added to each m² and the soil is again dug to a depth of 20 cm.
How to plant savoy cabbage? Water the seedlings thoroughly 2 hours before planting to make them easier to remove from their pots. When planting, seedlings are buried up to the cotyledon leaves. The distance between early-ripening seedlings in a row should be from 35 to 40 cm with a row spacing of 40-45 cm, mid-ripening varieties are planted according to a 50x50 pattern, and late varieties - according to a 60x60 cm pattern. After planting, water the cabbage. At first, while the seedlings are growing, shade them from the sun's rays. If there is a threat of night frost, cover the Savoy cabbage with film until the danger has passed.
Growing seedlings
Early varieties that are provided with sufficient light, watering and nutrition are suitable for cultivating the first harvest in June.
There are no special secrets in how to grow Savoy cabbage. Its agricultural technology is the same as that of its white cabbage relative. Nutrition and water are the main requirements for the normal development of seedlings.
Lighting at the beginning of growth should be at least 12 hours. At home, artificial lighting is used to grow early varieties. Cabbage is a long-day plant. An adult plant does not require light.
Temperature for optimal plant development is +15–18 °C.
Watering is necessary for the plant throughout the growing season. Cabbage has superficial fibrous roots and very large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture. Watering is especially important during the development of young plants and during the setting of heads of cabbage. Intensive growth of the vegetable is observed only at 90% soil moisture.
When cultivating seedlings in cassettes or individual pots, they do not outgrow, receive enough light, take root better when transshipped, and produce a yield of equal size. Seeds and land are saved significantly. For industrial plantings, it is grown only in this way.
If the seedlings are growing in a large seedling box, then a few days after the seedlings appear, they should be planted in separate cups. When replanting, the roots are shortened, cutting them by 1/3, and the seedling is buried down to the first leaves.
The first feeding is done a week after planting. It is needed to stimulate the development of the root system.
If the seedlings are strong and healthy, then no more feeding is done. With weak, elongated seedlings, continue to fertilize every 7-10 days. Nutrition is important for seedlings, since the consumption of essential elements from the soil is highest during this growth period.
Seedlings quickly process nutrition from the small volume of soil in which they are located. To prevent the plant from suffering from nutritional deficiency, fertilize 2-4 times.
Seedlings grown in cassettes are fed twice:
- After 2 leaves appear.
- Before hardening.
Seedlings that require picking are fed four times.
Liquid fertilizers are most fully absorbed. The first subcortex is done when two leaves appear. At this time, it is better to fertilize with a solution of microfertilizers:
- "NPK+micro";
- "Gumat";
- "Ultramag";
- "Activin";
- "Valagro".
Natural remedies are suitable for this:
- infusion of ash;
- infusion of eggshells;
- water after washing meat or fish.
Chemical preparations are also suitable:
- superphosphate;
- urea;
- potassium sulfate.
You can use humate preparations, solutions of microelements and microbiological preparations. For example, “Fitosporin-M” and “Gumi” not only feed plants, but also protect against “black leg” and other fungal infections.
The second feeding is carried out after planting. If picking is not done, then a second feeding is done before hardening. At this time, it is effective to use an aqueous mineral solution of fertilizers.
Before hardening, stir a tablespoon of urea or potassium sulfate in a bucket and pour a glass under each plant.
Important! Fertilizing is carried out only after watering the plants.
Hardening is a necessary procedure before transferring to the garden. It is needed for a painless move to the garden beds. In 2 weeks, the seedlings are accustomed to the outside temperature. To do this, she is placed in the yard for several hours, increasing the time daily.
A few days before transshipment, they do the last feeding. To do this, dissolve a teaspoon of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and nitrophoska in a bucket of water.
How to plant Savoy cabbage in open ground can be understood from the experience of growing its white cabbage variety. Standard seedlings are ready 45 days after sowing. It should have 4-6 true leaves, a strong stem, and a height of 20-25 cm.
How to grow savoy cabbage
Caring for Savoy cabbage
Growing Savoy cabbage follows the same rules as growing any other variety of cabbage. Savoy cabbage in open ground requires watering, loosening, hilling and weeding, as well as feeding and protection from diseases and pests. Immediately after planting the seedlings in the garden bed, the soil is first loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm while weeds are removed. The following loosening is carried out to a depth of 12-15 cm, dry and light soils are loosened not so deeply, and on wetter and heavier soils deep loosening is carried out. Try to loosen the soil on the site every week.
3-4 weeks after planting, all varieties of Savoy cabbage are earthed up, and late-ripening varieties are earthed up twice during the season - the second time before the leaves close.
Watering Savoy cabbage
Growing and caring for Savoy cabbage is impossible without a planned watering regime. The first time after planting, the seedlings are watered every other day or two, using 8 liters of water per m²; later, the number of waterings is reduced to once a week, but the water consumption increases to 13 liters per m² of land. The greatest need for moisture in early varieties is felt in May; in late varieties it is stronger from mid-July to mid-August.
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The weather may make adjustments to the watering schedule: if the summer has frequent precipitation, you will have to water the Savoy cabbage less often, but in dry weather you need to carefully monitor the condition of its leaves in order to save the plant from thirst in time.
Fertilizing Savoy cabbage
As soon as the seedlings, after planting in the ground, adapt and begin to grow, feed them with mullein solution at the rate of 1 part fertilizer to 10 parts water or a complex of mineral fertilizers - 15 g of urea, 15 g of potassium fertilizer and 40 g of superphosphate dissolved in 10 liters of water. When the heads of Savoy cabbage begin to curl, it is again fed with mineral fertilizers, increasing the rate of superphosphate and potassium sulfate by one and a half times.
Processing Savoy Cabbage
As a preventive treatment against pests, in particular against the cruciferous flea beetle, plants in the garden bed are dusted with wood ash, using a glass of product per 1 m². Prevention against fungal diseases is to treat the substrate in which the seedlings grow with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
How to plant?
Most growers use seedlings when planting cabbage. It is grown in greenhouse conditions. It takes 45 days from sowing to planting in the ground. Planting in an open area is carried out when the air temperature rises to 10 C.
If warm weather sets in at the end of April, then sowing is carried out at the end of February. Mid-late and late varieties are sown at the end of April, planting is carried out in mid-June.
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To grow seedlings, you need to prepare the room, soil and seeds. The room is kept at 20 C. It should be well ventilated. The soil is prepared from 10 kg of peat, 6 kg of compost, 5 kg of sand.
For 1 kg of mixture add 1 kg of slaked lime or ash. The soil temperature before sowing should be the same as the air temperature, 20 C.
The seeds are kept in antiseptic for 30 minutes. Hydrogen peroxide, iodine solution, potassium permanganate, and boric acid are used as a disinfectant solution. To obtain rapid germination, it is recommended to keep the seed in a biogrowth stimulator; use “Epin”, “Effecton”, “Kristalon”.
Many gardeners do not use stimulants. According to their reviews, antiseptic solutions have a positive effect on the core of the seed and trigger metabolic processes in it. Before sowing, the material is dried:
- a box or individual containers are filled with moist, heated soil;
- make 1 cm indentations in it in increments of 5 cm;
- lay the seeds, sprinkle with soil mixture;
- cover with film until shoots appear;
- watering is not carried out;
- when the seeds begin to germinate en masse, the film is removed and the temperature is reduced;
- in the daytime, seedlings develop at 15-18 C, at night the indicator is reduced to 8-10 C;
- Watering is carried out when a dry crust appears on the surface of the soil;
- after 35-50 days, the seedlings begin to harden so that they quickly adapt to the soil in the garden plot;
- Holes are made in the garden bed in increments of 60 cm. The same distance is maintained between the rows. It is recommended to arrange the holes in a checkerboard pattern so that the plants do not interfere with each other’s development;
- embedding into the ground is carried out up to the first leaf;
- Immediately organize watering with warm water.
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After planting, the seedlings are observed. They are given 14 days to adapt. Usually cabbage is quickly accepted, the root begins to develop, and new leaf buds appear on the bush. If there is a deviation in the development of seedlings, fertilizing is used.
Pests and diseases of savoy cabbage
Diseases of savoy cabbage
Diseases in savoy cabbage and other cruciferous plants are common. Most often, the crop has problems due to black leg, black ring spot, tracheomycosis, phomosis (or dry rot), vascular bacteriosis, downy mildew, clubroot, leucorrhoea, alternaria and mosaic.
Alternaria blight is a fungal disease that appears on cabbage leaves as small brown necrotic spots.
Belle affects not only cabbage, but also horseradish, radishes and other plants, which, after contracting the disease, look as if white oil paint had been poured on them. The development of the disease leads to browning and drying of the affected tissues.
Clubroot appears as spindle-shaped and spherical growths on the roots of cabbage, which over time become brown and rot. Affected specimens lag behind in development and wither.
Downy mildew appears as yellowish spots on cabbage leaves, while a whitish coating forms on the undersides. The spots on the lower leaves have a reddish-yellow tint.
Mosaic manifests itself with the following symptoms: a pattern appears on young leaves, tightening them so that the veins bend, causing the leaves to become deformed. Then a dark green border appears on the leaves, and the tissue between the veins becomes covered with light necrotic spots.
Vascular bacteriosis first disfigures the edges of the leaves of Savoy cabbage: they become yellow, become parchment-like to the touch, and their veins turn black. Young plants die, more mature ones develop unevenly.
Phoma affects the cotyledon leaves of seedlings, their roots and stems - pale spots with black dots appear on them. Brownish spots with a dark border appear on the leaves and stalks of mature cabbage; the lower leaves turn blue or purple. Plants stop developing, their tissues are destroyed, and dry rot forms on them.
Tracheomycosis, or fusarium wilt, turns cabbage leaves yellow-green, they become lethargic, develop unevenly, become deformed and fall off.
Black ring spot appears as numerous stripes and spots on cabbage leaves between the veins. Over time, light green spots appear, turning into necrotic rings of black-brown color, as if pressed into the leaf tissue.
Blackleg is a disease of cabbage at the seedling stage. It softens and blackens the tissue of the root collar, the stem becomes thinner and lies down.
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Control measures. To avoid savoy cabbage being affected by diseases, it is imperative to treat the seed, follow cultural practices, fight weeds, remove plant debris after harvesting, dig the area deeply and change the location of the savoy cabbage in the garden annually.
If, despite your efforts, the disease still penetrates the area, keep in mind that mosaic and black spot are incurable, like any viral diseases, so immediately remove the diseased specimens from the garden and burn them, and the soil in which they grew spill with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. As for fungal diseases, cabbage is treated against them with fungicides - Fundazol, Fitosporin, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur and other drugs of similar action.
Pests of Savoy cabbage
Just like diseases, pests in Savoy cabbage and other cruciferous crops are the same. Among them, you most often have to deal with cruciferous and black flea beetles, click beetles, cutworms, sprout flies, bugs, secretive proboscis, mole crickets, white moths, cabbage flies and slugs.
The cruciferous flea beetle is the most annoying pest of cabbage plants. She scrapes out small holes in the cabbage leaves, the remnants of the tissue in which dry out and fall out, forming holes. At an early stage of cabbage development, you can prevent it from being damaged by the cruciferous flea beetle by covering the bed with non-woven material. As protection against the pest, dust the cabbage and the soil around it with a mixture of wood ash and tobacco dust in a 2:1 ratio, and to prevent the powder from being blown away by the wind, spray the cabbage with water before treatment.
The flea beetle does not like celery, which can be planted between the rows of Savoy cabbage. But if the invasion looks total and it is necessary to take emergency and radical measures, treat the cabbage beds with Actellik in accordance with the instructions. The same fungicide works well against black and wavy flea beetles.
The spring cabbage fly lays eggs in the soil near the stems, and the larvae that emerge after a week eat the roots of the plant and make tunnels in the stems. To combat the fly, treat cabbage beds with Ambush, Rovikurt or Corsair.
Cutworms and white cutworms are dangerous because of their caterpillars, which damage cabbage leaves to varying degrees. As a preventative measure, it is advisable to plant cabbage before the butterflies begin to emerge. In the fight against cutworm and white moth caterpillars, the drugs Ambush, Belofos, Anometrin, Rovikurt, Cyanox, Gomelin, Bitoxibacillin and the like are used.
Bugs (rapeseed and cabbage), overwintering under fallen leaves, lay eggs on the above-ground parts of plants in the spring. In specimens damaged by bugs, the leaves turn yellow, and necrotic spots appear on them over time. Treatments with Actellica solution are effective in combating bedbugs.
Aphids are small sucking insects that feed on the cell sap of cabbage leaves, covering them with a waxy coating. The leaves become discolored and curl, some of them taking on a pinkish tint. In one season, cabbage aphids produce up to 16 generations. She is a carrier of incurable viral diseases.
You can plant dill, celery or carrots between the rows of Savoy cabbage, which will attract hoverflies and ladybugs - the worst enemies of aphids - to the area. Regular watering and weeding reduce the aphid population. If necessary, treat the area with Savoy cabbage with Ambush, Rovicurt, Biotlin, Antitlin or Corsair.
Cabbage rootworm is dangerous because there are no effective chemical means of protection against it. Its larvae feed on the tissue of the stem, gradually moving towards the root and forming swellings on it - galls. The methods of combating this type of secretive proboscis are only agrotechnical: observe crop rotation, regularly weed the cabbage beds, remove all plant debris from the area after harvesting, when planting seedlings in the ground, carefully inspect the roots of the seedlings, discarding those with growths on them.
Wireworm is the larva of the dark click beetle, a common pest of crops such as strawberries, lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes and all types of cabbage. Female click beetles lay up to 200 eggs, from which the larvae develop, initially translucent, but over time turning into long, thin, smooth and tough yellow-brown caterpillars. Wireworms develop from 3 to 5 years, all this time feeding on underground parts of plants. It is best to fight wireworms with the help of traps: in early May, make small holes in the garden bed, place pieces of carrots, beets or potatoes in them and cover them with earth, marking the place with a peg. After 4-5 days, dig a hole and destroy the larvae that have accumulated there to dine.
The mole cricket is a large pest up to 5 cm long that damages plant roots and is distinguished by its omnivorous nature. She lays eggs at a depth of 10-15 cm, and the larvae that appear after three weeks feed on the roots and stems of Savoy cabbage. Mole crickets, like wireworms, are most conveniently collected at the beginning of winter in pit traps 50 cm deep with fresh horse manure. After 3-4 weeks, when the insects climb into the holes for the winter, dig out the traps and destroy the pests, and you can fertilize the garden with manure. Of the chemicals that are most effective in the fight against mole crickets, Medvetoks, Medvegon and Grom.
Slugs, in addition to cabbage, damage crops such as parsley, eggplant, pumpkin, zucchini and rutabaga. Several generations of gastropods develop in one season. To protect the area from the appearance of slugs, scatter lime, dusted superphosphate, ash or pine needles over it. But if slugs have already appeared, place traps around the area in the form of cans of beer and small pieces of slate or boards, and harvest in the evening: the slugs will hide under the boards and slate to wait out the heat of the day, and some will want to drink beer on a hot day.
As a preventive measure against all pests, it is very important to observe crop rotation and agricultural practices, plant cabbage seedlings in open ground as early as possible, regularly fight weeds, remove and burn all plant residues in the fall, and then carry out deep digging of the site. If you follow all these simple rules, you can reliably protect your garden from pests.
Pests and diseases
Savoy cabbage, like other representatives of this family, is prone to all typical diseases. To maximize the safety of your plantings, first of all, it is important to strictly follow all the rules of agricultural technology.
If affected by diseases such as mosaic and black spot, the affected plants should be removed. These diseases are not curable.
Fungal diseases can be cured by treating plantings with fungicides.
Pests can also attack cabbage. The most common cabbage leaves people like to eat are:
- wireworm;
- cruciferous flea beetle;
- white moths and cutworms;
- bedbugs;
- aphid;
- slugs;
- spring cabbage fly.
When you notice the first signs of the presence of insects, you should go to the store and buy special preparations.
Harvesting and storing savoy cabbage
Selectively harvesting heads of early varieties of Savoy cabbage begins in July, and late varieties - in October. Early varieties of cabbage are eaten fresh - they are used for salads, cabbage rolls are made from it, cabbage soup is cooked, but it is not suitable for storage. Mid-season and late varieties can be stored for a long time. They are also used to make cabbage rolls, cook vegetable soups, even fry and stew. If you are going to store savoy cabbage, listen to our advice.
Do not rush to harvest late varieties of cabbage intended for storage - it can be harvested in late autumn. The main thing is to do this before the temperature in the garden drops to -7 ºC. For storage, heads of cabbage weighing at least 500 g are prepared with two or three hard covering leaves that protect the cabbage from dirt and damage. Do not water cabbage before harvesting. Harvesting should take place in dry weather; the optimal temperature for harvesting Savoy cabbage is from -1 to +1 ºC.
Cut savoy cabbage is sprinkled with crushed chalk and laid out on lattice shelves or boxes in a dry room for 2-3 days, having previously shortened the stalk to 3 cm. Savoy cabbage can be stored for no more than six months, but if the conditions are optimal and the heads of cabbage are large (more than 6 kg ), then longer storage is possible.
The cabbage is laid cut side up in wooden boxes so that the heads do not touch each other, and placed in a garage, cellar or barn, in which the air humidity level is maintained at 90-95% and the temperature is from 0 to 3 ºC. You should first make sure that the storage is free of fungi, mold and rodents.
You can store the heads of cabbage suspended from the ceiling, packing each one in a separate net. Or you can lay out a pyramid of heads of cabbage: the largest heads of cabbage are placed at the base, stalks up, after which they are covered with sand, and smaller heads of cabbage are placed on top of the sand with the cuts down, which are also covered with sand. The next layer is laid cut side up, and so on.
Or you can wrap each head of cabbage in thick paper and arrange them on shelves in the cellar.
Harvesting and storage
Savoy cabbage is harvested from the end of June. It is important to promptly remove heads of cabbage that are prone to cracking. There is also a way to prevent cracking. To do this, the lower leaves are removed or the root is trimmed with a shovel.
Late varieties tolerate cold weather and light frosts well. Taking advantage of this feature, some gardeners leave cabbage in winter beds under a layer of snow and cut it as needed, raking the snow.
Savoy cabbage is stored in boxes or on racks, laid out in one row. The optimal storage temperature is -1-3 °C.
Types and varieties of Savoy cabbage
Varieties of Savoy cabbage for open ground are conventionally divided according to ripening time. Early varieties include those that ripen in 105-120 days, mid-ripening varieties need from 120 to 135 days to reach maturity, and late-ripening varieties require 140 or more days.
Early savoy cabbage
Early Savoy cabbage is represented by the following varieties:
- Early Viennese is one of the best varieties of Savoy cabbage with ruffled leaves. The heads of cabbage of this variety are round, dark green, with a slight bloom, medium density, weighing up to 1 kg. The taste is excellent;
- Golden Early is another excellent, high-yielding variety with crack-resistant dark green heads weighing up to 800g with highly blistered leaves. The heads ripen in 95-110 days;
- Comparsa is an ultra-early hybrid of Savoy cabbage, resistant to pests and cracking and ripening in just 80 days, with light-green heads of medium density;
- Yubileinaya 2170 is an early ripening variety, prone to cracking, reaching ripeness in 85-110 days. The heads of cabbage of this variety are of medium density, weighing up to 800 g, with bubbly, slightly corrugated leaves of light green color with a gray tint;
- Petrovna - medium density, dark green outside and light yellow inside heads of this variety, weighing no more than one kilogram, ripen in 100-110 days.
Medium varieties of Savoy cabbage
The best varieties of medium-ripening Savoy cabbage are:
- Vertu 1340 is a medium-sized cabbage with flat or flat-rounded low heads of medium size, weighing up to 2.5 kg and medium or good density. The leaves are finely corrugated, heavily bubbly, covered with a waxy coating. Unfortunately, this delicious Savoy cabbage doesn't keep well;
- Kroma is a foreign variety with round, dense heads weighing up to 2 kg and a small stalk. The leaves are green, wavy;
- Sphere is a cracking-resistant variety with dark green heads of medium density, weighing up to 2.5 kg. Reviews of this variety of Savoy cabbage leave no doubt about its excellent taste;
- Melissa is one of the earliest hybrids of Savoy cabbage, resistant to cracking and fusarium, the growing season of which lasts up to 80 days. The heads of cabbage of this variety weigh 3-4 kg, their leaves are matte, dark green with a waxy coating, and very bubbly.
Late Savoy cabbage
Of the late-ripening varieties of Savoy cabbage, the most popular are:
- Stilon is a frost-resistant variety that can withstand temperatures of -6 ºC without loss of quality. Heads weight about 2.5 kg;
- Ovasa is a hybrid with large blistered leaves with a slight waxy coating. The heads are dense, weighing up to 2.5 kg;
- Nadya is a variety resistant to cracking and fusarium, ripening in 140 days or more. The heads are not very dense, round, large, reaching a weight of 3 kg. The leaves are tender, soft, highly bubbly;
- Uralochka - this frost-resistant variety has round heads, weighing up to 2.5 kg, medium density, leaves without veins, light green;
- Lacemaker is a variety distinguished by excellent taste with round heads of reddish color, reaching a weight of two kilograms. The leaves are thin and bubbly.
In addition to those listed, such varieties of Savoy cabbage as Pirozhkovskaya, Marner Frückopf, Fitis, Langendaker Gelbgruner, Dutch Winter Leith Ballhead, Alaska, Tasmania, Ormskirk, Best of All, Tavoy, Julius, Mila, Gloucester and others are successfully grown in cultivation.
general description
Savoy cabbage is similar to white cabbage, but its distinguishing feature is its corrugated leaves. The color of the leaves is dark green with a waxy coating. Depending on the variety, the plant may be low-growing or have a stem up to 40 cm in height.
The top bud forms a head of cabbage. It is not dense, the leaves are well separated from the stem. This feature is used by chefs to prepare cabbage rolls and other stuffed dishes:
- The root of the plant is short but massive. The culture requires regular watering;
- The leaf rosette is wide. The leaves are distinguished by a voluminous plate, the veins are thin, non-fibrous;
- the pulp is juicy, crispy, sweetish with a mustard flavor;
- unpretentious culture. Savoy cabbage is easier to grow than white cabbage. It tolerates not only short-term frosts, but also severe frosts, down to -15 C. At the same time, its leaves become even sweeter;
- the stem forms a small head of cabbage;
- Only late and mid-late varieties of vegetables are planted for the winter;
- Any soil is suitable for cultivation, even clayey ones, but it is recommended to dilute them with rotted compost;
- Savoy cabbage is resistant to infectious diseases and attacks by insect pests. Fungal infections require fungicide treatment.
To obtain seeds, plants are grown for the second year. They are dug up by the roots and placed in the basement, where they are kept at a temperature of 0 C. Boxes with sand and ash are used for storage. The roots are sprinkled with prepared soil mixture.
Planting is carried out in the spring. The stem produces a peduncle with large yellow flowers. The seeds are formed in pods. They are as small as those of regular cabbage. The seeds are round, brown in color.
Savoy cabbage is recommended to be included in children's diets from 2 years of age. It does not increase gas formation in the intestines. The product is indicated for people who suffer from diabetes, nervous disorders, and heart diseases. If you have a stomach ulcer or gastritis, do not eat cabbage.
If winters in the region are not characterized by severe frosts, then the heads of cabbage are left to ripen in the beds. They are placed in trenches, covered with leaves and sawdust, and covered with snow. In the spring, the uterine heads are planted for seeds.
Savoy cabbage is a low-calorie product. The chemical composition is represented by B vitamins, ascorbic and nicotinic acid. The product is useful for pregnant women. It contains an increased percentage of folic acid.
Of the mineral salts, the leading place is occupied by potassium and calcium. The pulp of the leaves contains a lot of silicon, cobalt, and magnesium. Dietary fiber helps normalize intestinal motility.
More on the topic: How are cabbage seedlings grown?
Properties of Savoy cabbage - harm and benefit
Beneficial properties of savoy cabbage
Savoy cabbage contains large amounts of vitamin C, A (beta-carotene), PP (or vitamin B3, or niacin, or niacin), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine), vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), vitamin E (tocopherol).
Savoy cabbage contains phosphorus, potassium and calcium salts, sodium and magnesium, zinc, copper, selenium, sugar, protein, fiber, phytoncides, amino acids and mustard oils. Savoy cabbage contains glutathione, which is a strong antioxidant, ascorbigen, which prevents the development of cancer, and mannitol alcohol, which replaces sugar for diabetics.
Due to the iron, magnesium and potassium salts contained in Savoy cabbage, it helps to improve the composition of the blood, dispersing it through the vessels and delivering oxygen and nutrients to the tissues. Eating fresh savoy cabbage lowers blood sugar, strengthens vision, prevents the formation of malignant tumors, increases appetite, and stimulates digestion. Savoy cabbage is especially useful in the spring, during a period of deficiency of natural vitamins.
Since the fiber of savoy cabbage is much more delicate than that of white cabbage, it is often included in diets indicated for children and the elderly. And the mannitol contained in it makes this type of cabbage indispensable for diabetics. In addition, Savoy cabbage has a diuretic, antioxidant, and bactericidal effect.
We offer you recipes for two dishes made from Savoy cabbage so that you can appreciate its taste:
- soup: chop and scald about 160 g of savoy cabbage with boiling water, boil it covered in 150 g of meat broth, add 20 g of butter, cool slightly, beat with a blender, then add another 100 g of broth and put on fire. As soon as the soup boils, pour 150 milk into it and serve with croutons;
- stewed cabbage with garlic: cut a head of savoy cabbage into 4 pieces and chop it. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a thick-bottomed pan, add 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed, and fry it in the oil for 30 seconds, then add the cabbage to the pan and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring. Remove the pan from the stove, place the stewed cabbage on a dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Savoy cabbage - contraindications
Savoy cabbage is a very healthy product, but in exceptional cases we can talk about the harm of savoy cabbage. People who have recently undergone surgery on the chest or abdominal cavity are better off avoiding eating savoy cabbage dishes. It is not recommended for use for diseases of the thyroid gland, pancreatitis, gastritis, enterocolitis, stomach and duodenal ulcers, especially during exacerbations.
What are the benefits of Savoy cabbage?
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Not all types of cabbage are healthy if eaten frequently, but Savoy cabbage can be considered an exception. It is even often prescribed by doctors to treat various ailments.
- It contains an abundance of vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C, E, PP, minerals such as phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, sodium, calcium, iron. Also available: sugar, fiber, mustard oils, proteins, carbohydrates, ash substances, thiamine, riboflavin, phytoncides, amino acids, pectins.
- Thanks to glutathione, savoy cabbage can increase skin elasticity, prevent aging, improve the immune system, and participate in the restoration of the nervous system.
- Ascorbigen was first discovered in its composition in 1957. This substance can block the development of cancerous tumors and prevent them from growing.
- It is much more nutritious and softer than cabbage, so it is easier and more enjoyable to eat.
- Can be used by people with diabetes, as well as those with high blood pressure.
- Due to the fact that it is quickly absorbed, it is prescribed instead of cabbage for children, the elderly, and also during the postoperative and recovery period after mild and severe illnesses.
- Removes excess water from the body, increases appetite.
There are only 28 kcal in 100 g of product, and 24 kcal in boiled cabbage. For this reason, this variety is recommended for people on diets who want to lose weight.
Disease and pest control
Savoy cabbage, like its other types, is affected by many diseases, but clubroot, vascular and mucous bacteria are especially dangerous.
Among the pests, cabbage flies, aphids, moths, white moths, and cutworms cause great harm to plantings. Chemicals in gardens are used only when there is a significant number of pests, and mainly use the insecticidal properties of plants.
Decoctions and infusions of many insecticidal plants are very effective in controlling pests and diseases. So, for these purposes, infusions of calendula, burdock leaves, wormwood, chamomile, tobacco, celandine, mustard, etc. are used.
How to treat savoy cabbage against pests
A mixture of tobacco dust and wood ash is used to treat cabbage plants against cruciferous flea beetles and cabbage flies.
Pollinating the soil around plants with dry mustard powder helps against slugs. A mixture of ash and quicklime (4:1) is also effective.
The following remedy is used against cabbage aphids:
- 50 g laundry soap;
- 200 g of ash;
- 10 liters of water.
Disease Prevention
To make plants less sick, it is necessary to alternate crops, and return cabbage to its original place no earlier than after 4–5 years. Good predecessors are potatoes, legumes, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, and root vegetables.
Clubroot is the scourge of cabbage. It affects the roots of plants: growths appear on them. The disease develops especially intensively on highly moist acidic soils. Control measures include soil change, liming of acidic soils. The latter involves adding lime (1 kg/m2) or ash (2 kg/m2) for autumn digging, or when planting seedlings - 35-40 g of lime per hole.
Plants from infected areas are removed and burned along with the roots, without shaking off the soil. Under no circumstances should they be placed in compost heaps. To prevent cabbage from being affected by bacterial diseases, it is very important to follow agricultural practices and fight cabbage flies and other insects that spread putrefactive bacteria.
Popular varieties
The characteristics of Savoy cabbage largely depend on the variety. A large number of varieties and hybrids of this plant have been developed.
Vertue
Savoy cabbage Vertu with lace leaves is a mid-late variety. The head of cabbage has a flat-round shape. The color is dark, gray-green. The leaves are oval, vesicular.
Suitable for processing and fresh consumption. Shelf life is up to two months.
The variety is distinguished by its demands on moisture and light. It cannot be called drought-resistant.
Golden early
This is an early variety - the heads of cabbage are cut 106-110 days after sowing the seeds. They have a spherical shape, reach a mass of 1 kg and a diameter of 60 cm. The outer leaves are light green in color, turning yellow towards the core. They have an openwork (bubbly) surface, highly corrugated.
The variety is highly resistant to drought, cracking, pests and diseases. From 1 sq. m harvest up to 4 kg of crop.
Moscow lacemaker
Early variety Moscow lacemaker. From emergence to harvest, 106-110 days pass.
The heads of cabbage have a rounded-flat shape. The leaves are yellow-green in color, round in shape, with lace-like blistering and wavy edges.
The weight of each head of cabbage varies between 1-1.5 kg. From 1 sq. m harvest up to 4.5 kg of crop.
Melissa
Melissa is a Savoy Dutch hybrid with medium ripening periods. It is highly resistant to fusarium and has powerful, well-developed roots.
Dense cabbage heads have a round shape. The leaves are medium corrugated with cuts, bubbly. The color is dark, gray-green. There is a thin waxy layer.
The weight of one head varies between 2-3 kg. From 1 sq. m harvest up to 5 kg of crop. The maximum shelf life is 5 months.
Pirozhkovaya
Early variety. It has high immunity and drought resistance. It contains a small amount of fiber, which is why its leaves are especially tender.
The head of cabbage has a cone-shaped shape. Density is average. Weight varies between 0.8-1 kg.
The outer leaves are emerald green and the inner leaves are yellow. They are wavy and bubbly.
Uralochka
Uralochka is a variety with medium ripening periods. Its main advantage is resistance to cracking.
The heads of cabbage are rounded, flattened, dense. The weight of each of them is approximately 2 kg.
The leaves are large, corrugated and vesicular. The upper layers are light green, and the central layers are yellow.
Where and how does it grow
Savoy cabbage (photos available for viewing) comes from North Africa and the western Mediterranean. The crop has long been cultivated in the Italian county of Savoy, which is why it got its name. Savoy cabbage is not common in our country due to the misconception that it is difficult to care for. In Europe, as well as Central and East Asia, this crop is grown quite successfully and widely.