Planting beans: basic rules for preparing seedlings and sowing beans in open ground

Planting beans is a pleasure. It is large, does not require much effort during cultivation, and is not capricious. But there are a number of conditions under which the plant will give an excellent harvest. By planting the crop on their site, gardeners receive not only tasty, healthy beans, but also a decorative decoration. Beautifully flowering beans with many fiery red flowers are gaining popularity in garden floriculture. So landscape designers also do not deprive it of attention. But first of all, vegetable crops are valued for their nutritional qualities.

Legumes are distributed throughout the world and are among the most popular foods due to their high nutritional value.

Types and varieties

Varieties of vegetable beans are usually divided into groups according to certain characteristics, which can be clarified in the State Register of the Russian Federation.

According to the ripening period , there are early ripening (up to 65 days), mid-early (65-75 days), medium (75-85 days), mid-late (85-100 days) and late (more than 100 days).

Depending on the growth form, beans can be bushy or climbing. Bush plants have varying degrees of branching, height from 20 to 70 cm, semi-climbing plants - up to 1.5 m, stems of climbing forms can reach a length of 5 m or more.

The color of the pods is also varied: green, red, purple, yellow, with a marble pattern.

Many vegetable growers choose varieties based on the size and color of the grain.

Common hulled beans are grown exclusively for their grains. Most of its varieties are intended for the southern regions, since pulses have a long growing season. In central Russia they do not even have time to reach the stage of technical maturity. For this reason, they are rarely planted in summer cottages.

Semi-sugar beans with a weakly expressed parchment layer or a layer that appears as they ripen require peeling, which is not very convenient. Young shoulder blades can be eaten, but they are harsh and slightly bitter.

Asparagus varieties have no parchment layer, no waxy coating, and no hard fibers between the leaves. The pods are picked before they are fully ripe. Green beans are the most delicious of all types . Its pods are very tender, but it is not recommended to eat them raw. The blades contain a toxic substance (phasin) that can lead to severe poisoning.

If you are planning to grow any of the varieties of crops, it is important to understand how to properly plant beans and care for the plantings.

Bean care

Caring for beans includes regular loosening and weeding, watering, fertilizing, sometimes thinning and pruning bushes if necessary.

Determinate bush varieties require minimal attention. It is advisable to fertilize their plantings when the appearance of the plants indicates a lack of nutrition.

You have to tinker with climbing and semi-climbing specimens, since their significant above-ground part needs high-quality and regular nutrition. And a longer growing season is associated with a greater number of problems.

Watering and fertilizing

Water the beans early in the morning or in the evening under the root with settled warm water. To do this, you can fill a large container or tank with water from a well in advance and use the water for irrigation a day later, when it warms up to a temperature approximately equal to the air temperature.

Before budding begins, the beans are watered as needed, alternating moistening with loosening. The soil should remain moist all the time, but water should not stagnate in the garden bed.

When flowers begin to set, watering is temporarily suspended. When the pods set and begin to grow, watering is carried out approximately once a week. And then they gradually stop them completely.

This strategy is not suitable for indeterminate varieties, especially sugar and semi-sugar varieties - they are watered moderately and regularly throughout the growing season.

Fertilizing is applied two to three times per season:

1. the first is carried out after the formation of the first pair of true leaves - phosphorus or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in a solution of 15-20 g per 10 liters of water;
2. during the period of mass budding and the beginning of flowering - potash fertilizers (10-15 g per 10 liters) or a solution of wood ash (a glass per 10 liters);
3. The third fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium mixtures in a proportion of 10-15 g per 10 liters of water is carried out during the ripening period of the beans.

Nitrogen fertilizers for beans are evil. Additional feeding makes sense only if the bushes are physically lagging behind in development.

Loosening the soil

This is the main procedure for bush beans; it will not harm climbing specimens either. Beans do not like dampness at the roots; they need oxygen circulation. Therefore, the crust of the earth must be constantly broken in between waterings.

When growing melons upland, this procedure replaces watering. The tool for loosening should be selected with a small blade, and the work itself should be carried out carefully, without making deep punctures in the soil, so as not to damage the root.

1. The first loosening is associated with weeding and is carried out as soon as the first two leaves appear from under the ground;
2. When the bean bushes reach a height of 6-7 centimeters, a second loosening is carried out;
3. The third is carried out simultaneously with a small hilling two weeks later;
4. Before closing the rows, a final loosening is carried out;
5. If the bushes are planted at large intervals, then you can not neglect this procedure in the future.

The hole under the tied bushes is loosened as needed.

Garter beans

Climbing varieties require support, which is wiser to install in advance. A mesh with large cells or a thin vertical support is best. Tie the beans with sparse loops, without pulling the stem. There is no need to attach the bean vine to the support too often; it clings to it very well on its own.

Bush varieties that reach a height of 60 centimeters, such as Flamingo or Shokoladnitsa, also need support. You can plant such plants in one row and, installing two pegs at each end of the row, stretch a circular horizontal support of twine between them. Single bushes can be tied to an individual support by placing a peg nearby and securing the stem to it with a loose loop of fabric.

Seed preparation

The seedling method is used mainly in northern latitudes with a long, cold spring in order to have time to harvest in short summer conditions. In central Russia and the southern regions, there is no particular need to grow seedlings at home.

Grains can be sown immediately in open ground as soon as the ground warms up to a depth of 10-15 cm

To minimize losses during germination, pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out . Specimens with noticeable external damage are sorted and rejected and calibrated by size. The selected planting material is dipped, slightly shaking, into a weak solution of table salt. Floating, hollow beans are removed. Those that have sunk to the bottom are kept in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, then rinsed in clean water. If disinfection is carried out using Fitosporin or another disinfectant, it is not necessary to rinse the grains after the procedure.

In regions where there is a risk of return frosts in early June, preliminary hardening of seeds is sometimes used , but experience shows that this activity is more advisable to carry out at the stage of preparing grown seedlings for planting in a permanent place. But “infecting” the seed by treating it with an inoculant of nodule bacteria based on nitragine will be very useful. It is advisable to do this after pickling, during soaking.

To speed up hatching, the grains are placed in a humid environment.

To stimulate germination, the seeds are wrapped in a slightly moistened cloth, laid out on a flat saucer or bowl, and placed in a warm place.

There should be no excess water in the container. As soon as the white “tails” appear, you can plant the beans in open ground or in planting containers with a moistened substrate, deepening them to 3-4 cm.

When using the seedling method, it is better to place the beans in separate, spacious (about 300 ml in volume) peat or cardboard pots. The substrate should be light, loose, breathable. Before germination, the pots are covered with film or glass to maintain moisture and heat, and periodically opened for ventilation. The root system and stems of the plant are very fragile and can be easily damaged even with careful handling. Seedlings in self-decomposing cups are placed whole in the holes without removing them, carefully destroying the bottom. This method is much more convenient, safer and ensures almost 100% survival rate.

The seeds germinate well, the seedlings “grow up” quite quickly, literally in a month, and actively increase their leaf mass

For normal growth, seedlings need a lot of light; if there is not enough light, the sprouts will stretch out and wither. Throughout the entire period of growing seedlings, it is advisable to maintain an optimal temperature of +16 ℃. Plants are ready for transplanting when there are three or four true leaves. 5-7 days before landing in a permanent place, they begin to gradually harden them, accustom them to the sun’s rays, “walking” them in the fresh air (opening a window slightly or taking them out onto the balcony, first for 15 minutes, and then for a longer time).

What difficulties may arise when growing beans?

Another advantage of growing beans is that they are practically not susceptible to diseases and garden pests. And their rare possible manifestations are easy to cope with.

Diseases

The best prevention of bean diseases is timely removal of weeds. Euphorbia is especially dangerous - its roots secrete a substance that promotes the oxidation of iron in the soil and the formation of rust. To counteract, the plant is sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

The main disease is bacteriosis: spotting, rot, spreading throughout the entire body of the plant. Prevention: maintaining distances between plantings, eliminating shading and excessive humidity.

Pests

Slugs are sometimes spotted on beans, loving to feast on the leaves of legumes. The counteraction is simple - collect the pests in a jar and destroy them. The best prevention of their occurrence is timely weeding of bean beds. Slugs love shaded, cool areas with high humidity.

Another bean enemy is the root weevil. Prevention of its occurrence is to treat the beans immediately before sowing. They are briefly placed in a warm solution of boric acid and ammonium.

The sprout fly is dangerous because it feeds on young shoots. From damage they become deformed and dry out on the vine. Since it lays its larvae in the ground at the feeding site, it is not recommended to plant new beans in the place of last year's. Use only last year's humus - fresh humus contains many eggs of sprout flies.

Beans can also be threatened by the pea codling moth. To protect your plantings from it, do not plant plants in the place of last year’s ridge with other legumes.

Timing for planting in open ground

The optimal timing of germination, planting seedlings or sowing seeds in open ground is determined based on the meteorological indicators of a particular region. A heat-loving crop is planted only after stable heat has been established.

Experienced summer residents advise sowing legumes at the same time as cucumbers, and also pay attention to nature’s cues: swollen buds and opening buds on chestnut trees serve as a sure signal that it’s time to plant beans.

Legumes love light, so they are planted in sunny places protected from cold winds.

In areas with high groundwater levels, high beds are installed. Water the seedlings moderately, make sure that no weeds appear nearby and that a dry crust does not form on the surface of the earth. If cold snaps are predicted, tender plants are protected with lutrasil at night. For climbing varieties, lattice supports and high trellises (1.5-2 m) are equipped, along which the shoots climb independently with the help of tendrils. Bush varieties grow successfully without support.

Table: features of preparing seedlings and sowing beans in the ground in different regions

As you can see, growing bean seedlings or sowing beans is not a difficult task, and even beginners can handle it. By following the recommendations for preparing and caring for seedlings and choosing the right site for its further cultivation or sowing beans, you can easily get a healthy plant and ensure yourself a high-quality harvest.

• Author: Valeria Akatieva
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Soil preparation

The legume crop itself is capable of improving the properties of the soil, but will respond gratefully if the soil is fertile and properly fertilized. On compacted, acidic, clayey, waterlogged soils, beans will not produce a good harvest. If the acidity is above 6-7 pH, it is necessary to carry out liming in advance. Simultaneously with pre-planting loosening, granular fertilizers are applied, developed specifically for legumes, which will compensate for the possible deficiency of cobalt, molybdenum, magnesium, manganese, boron, iron, zinc (Aquadon Micro, Teknokel Amino Plus).

In industrial cultivation, specialized polymer-chelate complexes are often used

Enriching the soil with microelements in chelated form promotes the formation of nitrogen-fixing nodules, abundant flowering, and increases plant immunity in unfavorable conditions.

Legumes need the least amount of organic matter, which provokes intensive growth of green mass. During watering, the soil in the garden bed can be additionally watered with bacterial fertilizers diluted according to the instructions.

The plants should be fed a second time before fruiting begins with potassium preparations.

Choosing a place for beans

The gardener decides where to place the beans, taking into account a number of circumstances:

• Type of bean (bush, climbing or the “younger sister” of climbing - semi-climbing);
• Planned crop rotation;
• Availability of irrigation;
• Site orientation;
• Location of buildings on the site;
• Proximity or remoteness of garden plantings;
• The height of standing water under the soil (groundwater);
• The quality of the soil - its structure, nutritional value, appearance.

Not a single item on the above list can be neglected if you need a good harvest.

Each circumstance affects the life of the plant in its own way. Comprehensively selected optimal conditions will give the beans the opportunity to show themselves.

No matter how productive the variety is, if you grow beans according to the “sow and forget” principle, the harvest will be according to a different principle. That is: “depending on your luck.”

It’s easy to understand how conditions influence if you look closely.

Type of bean . Bush requires separate placement.

She is usually short, joint plantings are not for her, there may not be enough light and nutrition.

Individual plots are allocated for bush beans.

Semi-climbing and climbing – these types of beans get along easily with their neighbors. Corn and sunflower are their best friends and support (in the literal sense).

Beans use the strong, tall stems of these crops as supports and climb along them. The space provided by the planting scheme (70 x 70 or more centimeters) is good for the main crops - sunflower, corn - and for the beans themselves.

There is enough for everyone. Sun, food, place.

Climbing beans can be placed on pergolas and gazebos if desired. It will decorate any prominent places if the variety is decorative.

Long-lasting and beautifully flowering varieties can serve exclusively decorative purposes.

But they can perform two tasks - decorate and produce edible vegetable beans or grain, unevenly ripening beans.

You will harvest one crop, another will ripen, and along the edges of the bush and in its height there will be a garland of flowers. Beautiful and useful.

Planned crop rotation . Legumes are always welcome in crop rotation. Their roots are designed in such a way that nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in special root nodules.

This is a unique property in the plant world: the ability to absorb (fix) nitrogen from the air.

And it’s okay that these nodules and bacteria are in the ground. There is definitely air there too.

Otherwise, not a single plant will be able to survive - it will get wet. Legumes have a special root air exchange. The nitrogen accumulated by small nodules remains in them.

The roots (or remains of roots) rot in the soil, and the soil itself is enriched with nitrogen. Without any other fertilizers it receives the substance necessary for the growth of any plant.

Legumes fertilize the soil. Excellent predecessors to many cultures.

The representative of the family itself, the bean, also loves soil - it is nutritious.

Crops with a strong removal of nutrients from the surface layers, where the root system of beans is located, are not suitable as predecessors.

Beans grow together with sunflowers, but after that it is not a suitable option. And there will be little food left, and fungal diseases (rot) may become common.

Beans are not sown after the beans themselves. There is not only the same removal of nutrients (the previous bean has already “eaten” what the next one needs), but the risk of disease and pest damage increases.

The same goes for legumes in general. There is no need to sow after peas, china, beans, even alfalfa.

In the soil and on plant debris, pathogenic microorganisms and general pests may well overwinter in the overwintering phase.

If the plot is small, crop rotation is more difficult, but before three years (preferably five), it is better not to return the beans to their original place.

Beans are good after root vegetables and potatoes. A good predecessor: pumpkin and its entire family (cucumbers, melon, squash, zucchini).

Cabbage will also work, but you will need to fertilize the soil layer - cabbage takes its food from the same soil horizon from which the beans will feed.

Food preferences, however, differ among cultures. It is important that beans have almost no common pests with these predecessors.

Onions and carrots are also not related to beans, and besides, they are modest in nutrition and do not deplete the soil. They are also suitable as predecessors.

Beans are also sown after nightshade vegetables: eggplants, tomatoes, peppers.

It is especially convenient to sow beans as the second crop of the season. After early, already harvested vegetables.

In the south - after winter carrots and beets are harvested for early bunch production. It turns out there are two harvests from the plot - first root crops, then beans.

The second crop of beans is also successful after early greens and early cabbage.

Irrigation availability . Bush beans do not require a lot of moisture, climbing beans have more greenery, so you need to water them more.

Sometimes the growing seasons are favorable in terms of weather, and then there is almost no need to specifically water the beans.

But it doesn’t happen year after year either. One good, strong rain will fall, and the seeds in the soil will swell and sprouts will hatch.

During this period, moisture is vital for a newborn bean plant. And suddenly - drought. This is death, without options.

To save a bean plot, it needs to be watered, constantly maintaining moisture. Only then will the shoots appear and grow stronger.

Therefore, irrigation or water for it - nearby - must be available. Water is also needed later, when the time for flowering and fruiting approaches.

Site orientation . The plots are oriented differently. Often oriented in a north-south direction.

It seems to be what we need. But traditionally, gardeners divide the plot with a path in half lengthwise, and make beds across it.

Then the plantings will be oriented differently: “west – east”. For better use of sunlight by the leaves, it is preferable to place the rows in the first direction, from north to south.

If it is not possible to arrange the beds like this (it is inconvenient to make many elongated beds or plant them along the entire garden), there is a way out.

Fill the beds as usual, but then plant beans on them, making furrows not along the bed. Transverse, short, the width of the bed, rows will be oriented correctly.

And they will take as much sunlight as they need. What is required is 12 hours a day, more is not necessary, less is undesirable.

The bean itself helps itself to “catch” the light. On sunny days, when it is hot, the plant opens its leaf, placing it horizontally.

The leaf plate takes in maximum light, while simultaneously evaporating maximum moisture, thereby cooling itself and protecting it from overheating.

At night, in the dark and cool, the leaves rest: they fall down. At the same time, dew flows from them and does not stagnate - protection against fungus.

Amazing plant.

Location of buildings and gardens . These factors influence in two ways. If you don’t plant it close, it will shade it and affect growth and yield.

But at a distance slightly greater than the shadow “reaches” it’s not a bad idea to plant. Additional protection from winds and cold.

Occurrence of groundwater. This value is an important indicator.

If the water is close to the surface, flooding occurs during rains - this is not a place for beans.

It cannot stand flooding, it simply gets wet and dies. Choose a higher place, if available.

If not, build a high ridge, especially for beans. And don't forget about drainage. Then everything will work out.

Soil quality . Beans will not succeed in heavy, compacted clay soils.

Cultivated loams are suitable. Even better if it is black soil. Fertilized sandy loam soils are also good.

The main thing is structure: friability, lightness and nutritional value of the soil. Does not tolerate acidic and waterlogged soils.

Beans prefer a neutral or close to slightly alkaline soil solution.

Salt marshes are not suitable, but they usually don’t risk planting gardens there.

Summer residents usually don’t run to the laboratory with soil samples. But it is possible to understand the state of the “plant feeder,” and at the same time our nurse, without a laboratory.

Weeds will help with this. They will silently tell you the necessary information.

Based on the weeds growing on the site, acidity is determined as follows:

• Mayweed. Perhaps information about it is not familiar to everyone, but this plant is practically a twin of chamomile in appearance. The navel is often mistakenly called chamomile. There is only one pronounced difference - the receptacle (the top of the stem, formed by the cup in which the flower is located). In chamomile it is hollow, but in the navel it is conical, membranous, and has no cavity. If there is a navel on the site, the soil is acidic.
• Sour sorrel, mint, wild rosemary, wheatgrass, yellow sweet clover, horsetail, and plantain are also lovers of sour things.
• But where the bindweed scattered its stems, the soil is alkaline.
• Quinoa, shepherd's purse, woodlice will tell the gardener: lucky, the soil is close to neutral, many vegetables like this, not just beans.

If the soil is “not very good”, it is worth analyzing what is wrong with it for beans. A lot can be corrected: the soil is acidic - liming will help.

Not light enough - improve by adding organic matter, sand, even sawdust can help.

There are also areas that seem to be made with patchwork: somewhere the plot is better, somewhere it’s worse.

The plantain prefers some places, while bindweed traditionally settles in others.

In such a garden, you can simply choose a “section” suitable specifically for beans and prepare the crop for planting.

Prevention of pests and diseases

Plants are susceptible to infection by bacteriosis, fungal and mold infections, including various spots, rot, rust, powdery mildew, anthracnose, downy mildew, fusarium, cladosporiosis, as well as viral diseases. And if mosaic diseases are incurable, then the rest can be prevented by following the rules of crop rotation, agricultural technology and autumn post-harvest tillage using approved fungicides.

The development of fusarium (pictured) is facilitated by increased soil acidity and high temperatures.

Preventive measures also concern protection from dangerous pests: beetles from the caryopsis family, weevils, whiteflies, sprout flies, all types of aphids, and slugs.

Beans will bear fruit well after nightshades - tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, as well as in beds freed from cucumbers and cabbage.

Precursors for beans

Beans have a beneficial effect on the soil, enriching it with natural nitrogen. It is the best predecessor for almost all garden crops. She herself is not particularly picky and has a large range of acceptable predecessors:

• physalis, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes - nightshades will provide the best conditions for beans;
• carrots, beets and other root vegetables draw nutrients at a greater depth than beans;
• onions, garlic, wild garlic disinfect the soil and consume microelements in modest portions;
• zucchini, cucumbers, and early cabbage are also acceptable as precursors for legumes.

The only contraindication for beans is other legumes. Consecutive planting of them for several years in a row in one place leads to the accumulation of diseases and oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen.

Bean crop rotation should be oriented towards a five-year cycle.

It is good to use bush beans as a compactor for tomatoes or “add” them to corn, planting the grains in one hole at a distance of 5-7 centimeters to make weeding more convenient.

Planting schemes

Depending on the type of crop, various sowing methods : row, strip, checkerboard.

Row spacing for climbing beans is made at least 50 cm and sown in one row with intervals of 20-25 cm. Bush beans are planted more densely, with intervals of 15-20 cm, maintaining a distance of 40 cm between rows.

Row sowing involves planting in one row (line). It is justified in a spacious area: spreading plants receive more area for nutrition than with the tape (multi-line) method, when grains are sown in two or three rows. In this case, the row spacing is increased to 60-70 cm.

Fiberglass, plastic and metal materials are not suitable for constructing supports, since the plant will not be able to “catch onto them”

Some gardeners pre-arrange supports like a hut for planting climbing forms. A circle is drawn around a driven wooden pole. Ropes are pulled from the top of the pole to the ground and fixed at some distance along the radius. Similar structures are also made in the form of a pyramid (see photo), the skeleton of which is sticks stuck into the ground and tied tightly at the top.

Soil requirements when planting beans

Beans are planted in warm soil when the threat of spring frosts has passed. Usually sowing occurs at the end of April or beginning of May. We present the soil requirements in the table.

Tip #1. If you have to grow beans in acidic soil, then deoxidize it first. Add lime or wood ash and mix it with the soil.

Beans not only consume a lot of nutrients from the soil, but also saturate the soil with nitrogen.

Features of growing cowpea

Green beans are often confused with their close relative, cowpeas. Asian varieties also belong to the genus Vigna: mung bean, mung bean (Urd), adzuki. Cowpeas have straight or trailing stems with large trifoliate leaves. The flowers are yellowish-green. The pods are long (10 cm or more), covered with hard fibers, each containing from four to ten seeds.

The grains are shiny, small, square-shaped, black, sometimes green

A constant air temperature within +30…35 ℃ throughout the entire growing season is vital for a subtropical plant.

The cultivation of this crop is not very widespread in Russia, since for it even the southern regions are a zone of risky farming. More or less suitable conditions for cowpeas exist only in the North Caucasus. There are cold-resistant hybrids adapted for cultivation in cooler climates, but their yields are much lower.

For horticultural cultivation in Russian conditions, the following varieties registered in the State Register are recommended:

Harvesting and storage

The pods are removed from the plants as they mature. If the planting is grain, readiness is determined by the dry, crackling, yellowed shell. But this should not be allowed with asparagus varieties - they are harvested green, but large in size. Yellowing indicates that the pod is already overripe. But you shouldn’t delay harvesting grains either—fibers begin to appear in the beans.

Bushy varieties produce crops faster than climbing varieties. The period for its collection depends on the variety (the period is indicated on the bag of seeds): on average, this is August-September.

To keep the pods for a long time, they are not torn off by hand, but the stalk is cut off with scissors or a knife. There are two main storage options:

1. Freezing. Both grain and green beans are frozen. The advantage of this storage is that the beans do not need to be soaked before cooking.
2. Drying. The grains are freed from the pods and laid out on clean cotton cloth or paper. Dry in a bright, dry room exposed to sunlight.

The peel left over from peeling beans is an excellent fertilizer for cucumbers and tomatoes. Grind the biomass and fill it with water. The infusion is suitable for root feeding. You can simply sprinkle the crushed pods on the ground around the plantings.

I always leave a few pods for seeds. I wait until they reach maximum ripeness - the peel dries until translucent and turns light brown. Then all that remains is to clean the beans, place them in a jar, and label the variety.

Beans are one of the most unpretentious inhabitants of your garden: infrequent watering, no need for constant feeding, resistance to diseases and pests. This is a high-yielding crop - take note of my advice, and you will be able to eat this healthy product all year round, because green beans can be preserved, and shelled beans are stored dried for a long time.

How to determine the type of soil for beans?

Because beans prefer moist, fertile soil that is neutral in acidity, it is important to determine the soil type before planting the crop. If the soil is unsuitable, the bean yield decreases and the plant develops slowly.

There are three types of soil:

1. Light (sandy and sandy loam). The earth, if you take it into your palm and squeeze it, crumbles. It does not retain moisture and nutrients well. This is not the best option for beans, but such soil allows air to pass through well. To make it suitable for beans, namely to increase moisture capacity and make it heavier, clay or sapropel is added.
2. Loamy. This type of soil is best suited for beans. The soil is moderately moist, dense and fertile.
3. Heavy (clayey). If you take such earth into your palm and squeeze it, it holds its shape well. Such soil is moist, but due to its high density, organic fertilizers decompose slowly, so there is a deficiency of nutrients. The earth takes a long time to warm up and it is better to plant beans as seedlings in mid-May. To improve the soil for growing beans, add sawdust and sand. Sawdust is added only in the fall, pre-soaked in a solution of nitrogen fertilizers.

Tip #2. Before using sapropel, the fertilizer must be ventilated and frozen to kill all harmful compounds. An alternative is purchased sapropel; it is used without prior preparation.

To loosen heavy soils for sowing beans, the area is sown with green manure. Choose cereal crops that have a powerful root system.