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Yakov Pavlovich
Professor, Head of the Department of Vegetable Growing
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A proven and reliable method of propagating fruit trees is grafting. Favorite cherries are no exception in this regard. This method of propagation allows not only to preserve the characteristics of the fruit, but also to improve frost resistance. It is only important to follow certain rules and adhere to recommendations.
When should this procedure be performed?
The best time to graft cherry trees is summer and early autumn. Experienced gardeners recommend grafting in the spring, when sap flow is active and the cuttings take root well.
If you had to carry out work in the fall, then you need to get it done by mid-September. Otherwise, the graft will not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather and will die. Residents of the middle zone are advised to finish propagating cherries in this way in August, since sudden cold snaps and weather changes are possible in this region.
Summer grafting of stone fruit trees is carried out in July, when fruiting ends. It is worth noting that cherries are a capricious crop, and the slightest deviation from the rules or violation of deadlines can lead to the death of the scion. In summer, the weather is predominantly dry and warm, which has a beneficial effect on the survival rate of cuttings and prevents the spread of diseases and the penetration of moisture into the cutting areas.
Advantages and disadvantages of cherry grafting
Fruit trees age over the years, produce less yield and dry out. Then they have to be changed. Sweet cherries are no exception. Also, the condition of plants deteriorates if the climate or soil composition in the growing region is not suitable for them. In this case, a successful way to solve the problem is to graft the cherry onto a crop adapted to local conditions. Most gardeners use grafting to grow new varieties or propagate existing ones. Then you don’t need to look for a new seedling or uproot an existing tree on the site.
The main advantages of vaccination:
- obtaining larger fruits;
- increasing productivity;
- strengthening resistance to infections typical for the culture;
- increasing resistance to adverse environmental conditions;
- quick harvest.
The procedure has no disadvantages. If all actions are performed correctly, the plant turns out healthy, strong, and bears fruit abundantly. Unlike seed propagation, grafting preserves all the varietal properties of predecessors and guarantees successful survival of cuttings.
What fruit trees can cherry trees be grafted onto?
Cherries are also most often chosen as a rootstock. However, gardeners must remember that the selected variety must be resistant not only to the vagaries of the weather, but also to common diseases. Otherwise, it will be difficult to achieve abundant and high-quality harvests.
Cherries are also grafted onto cherries. The survival rate is no worse than when using another cherry as a rootstock. If you choose a wild seedling, you can improve the characteristics of the tree in terms of frost resistance, drought resistance and increase its immunity to disease.
An excellent rootstock for cherries is cherry plum. With it, the scion grows together without problems. In addition, cherry plum shoots are much stronger than cherry shoots, so the plant can withstand heavy harvests well.
Experienced gardeners sometimes graft cherries onto plums. They grow together poorly, but if the experiment turns out to be successful, the result will not leave anyone indifferent.
Why graft cherries?
What is needed for vaccination
Of course, grafting any tree involves additional hassle and risk. But most often it is thanks to this method that you can get the best results. The same goes for cherries. This method of growing trees has a number of advantages.
- Even if the desired variety prefers certain climate conditions, by grafting it onto another tree you can achieve high-quality growth and a bountiful harvest in any corner of the world. Thus, it is easier for the plant to adapt to different environmental conditions.
- As a rule, grafted plants produce more yield.
- By grafting different varieties of cherries onto each other or onto other tree species, a completely new variety of fruit can be obtained, possibly much better than the available alternatives.
What tools to use?
To propagate cherries by grafting, you may need the following tools:
- pruner;
- scissors;
- garden knife;
- garden var.
If grafting is done on cherry plum, a method such as budding is often used. In this case, a novice gardener is recommended to have a special budding knife on hand, which will greatly simplify the work and increase the chances of successful rooting of the cutting.
See also: The best varieties of cherries for the Moscow region
Time of vaccination
Grafting activities are carried out in the spring and summer months. If time has been missed, September (October in warmer regions) is the last chance. Photo: media.sarpoosh.com
- In the spring. The prerequisites for the procedure are a consistently warm air temperature and active movement of sap in the tree. The conditions correspond to the second half of spring.
- In summer. When choosing the summer months, you should take into account the need to protect the grafting site from direct sunlight. In rainy weather, there is a risk of the cut rotting if the process rules were violated.
- In autumn. During cold weather, you need to focus on the onset of frost. The grafted cuttings must have time to take root.
In any case, a positive outcome of the case depends on compliance with the rules of the procedure
Preparing the rootstock and scion
The scion is made from annual lignified cuttings that meet certain requirements:
- The thickness of the branch is about 7.5 mm (like a simple pencil);
- internodes are short;
- have developed growth buds (at least 5 pieces);
- length about 35 cm.
To take cuttings, it is better to choose cherries that are no more than 10 years old. They are cut in late autumn or early winter, before frost sets in. The storage location must have such conditions so that the buds do not wake up until spring.
If grafting is done in the summer, then freshly cut cuttings are used.
Expert opinion
Stanislav Pavlovich
Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert
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Important! In summer, cuttings are not stored, since their survival rate will be significantly reduced.
How and when are cuttings harvested?
Agronomists recommend preparing cuttings for spring breeding of cherries in the fall, when the leaves begin to fall, before the first frost. The months of preparation depend on the region, but most often the collection period falls in late October early November. You can cut cuttings in January or February if the winter was warm, but the survival rate of such cuttings is reduced. The age of the branches for grafting is 1 year, that is, those that have grown over the spring and summer are cut off.
At the top of the selected section of the branch there should be at least one sprout bud and several leaves. The length of the cut shoot is about 7 cm. There should be no damage on the harvested branches, they should be smooth, without bends. To keep them until spring, they are placed in a container with moistened sand or sawdust and stored in the cellar until spring. If there is no cellar, they can be wrapped in damp gauze, wrapped in a plastic bag and put in the refrigerator.
Important!
If you need to plant cherries in the summer, you can use freshly cut branches, without prior preparation.
How to properly plant cherries
There are several proven methods for propagating cherries by grafting. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as features of the work.
Copulation
Cherry trees can be grafted by copulation only when the thickness of the connected branches is absolutely the same.
Expert opinion
Stanislav Pavlovich
Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert
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Important! The cut locations must overlap each other exactly.
An oblique cut is made on the scion and rootstock at an angle of 30 using a sharp knife. After this, they are connected in such a way that not the slightest displacement is formed, and they are wrapped with tape. The grafting site is covered with garden varnish or “RanNet” putty. Experienced gardeners call this method the most effective, since fusion occurs quickly and fruiting occurs faster than using other methods. The work is carried out in early spring, when there is no longer frost, but the buds have not yet bloomed.
For the bark
Grafting with cuttings of the same thickness as the rootstock is not always possible, especially if we are talking about an adult tree. In this case, they resort to a simple, but at the same time effective method - bark. It is preferable to carry out work in early spring, before the buds open. You should not choose a tree that is more than 10 years old as a rootstock.
In the case when the grafting is performed on a skeletal branch, it is cut as carefully and evenly as possible, leaving a distance of about 20 cm to the main trunk. After this, an incision is made in the bark to a depth of about 4 cm and separated from the wood.
Important! The bark only needs to be slightly separated from the trunk, but not torn off.
An oblique cut is made on the cutting at an angle of 45 and placed tightly under the bark, connecting the place of the oblique cut with the wood. In this case, 2 mm of the cut should protrude above the cut site. Wrap the grafting site with tape and cover it with garden varnish.
Into the cleft
This method is one of the simplest, so even beginners can use it. A mature branch is selected as a rootstock, in which a split is made with a sharp knife to a depth of 5 cm. The lower part of the scion is cut obliquely on both sides and inserted into the split. Wrap the grafting site with tape and coat it with garden varnish. Cellophane is put on top. Work is carried out in early spring. The rootstock fuses with the cherry scion for about 1 month.
See also Description and subtleties of growing large-fruited cherries
In the corner cutout
This technique differs from the previous one in that instead of a split, an angular cut is made on the rootstock. To do this, an identical cut is made on both sides to a depth of about 6 mm at an angle of 30.
Expert opinion
Stanislav Pavlovich
Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert
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Important! The top point of the cut should go 6 mm into the branch, and the bottom point only 2 mm.
The prepared cutting in its lower part is cut into a triangle so that it fits exactly into the cutout on the rootstock. They are connected to each other, wrapped with tape and treated with garden varnish. Place cellophane film on top. This technique is suitable for propagating cherries with young green branches.
Into the side cut
This method has much in common with copulation, only the connection is made not from the top, but from the side. It is suitable for novice gardeners who are afraid to graft cherries on their own and do not have sufficient skills in this matter.
A side cut is made on the rootstock at an angle of 15 to the trunk. Not only the bark should be cut, but also the wood. The cuttings should contain at least 3-4 buds. In its lower part, a lateral oblique cut is made and placed in the cut of the rootstock, trying to connect the plant tissues as accurately as possible. They tie the grafting site with tape and cover it with garden varnish. The fusion process lasts about 1 month.
Further care
After young leaves appear on the scion, the plant is monitored so that the trunk is not gnawed by hares and mice. To do this, the lower part of the tree is whitewashed and wrapped in burlap for the winter. To protect against aphids and other insects, the crown is sprayed with insecticides every 20 days. For successful fusion of plant tissues, the scion is provided with nutrition. To do this, remove all growth appearing on the rootstock below the grafting site. All damaged areas must be covered with garden varnish.
The plant is watered regularly, soaking the trunk circle with water to a depth of 30 cm. At the end of summer, the upper part of the scion is pinched to stimulate branching. The following year, formative pruning of the crown is carried out. After another 12 months, the branches are shortened by 50 cm. The shoots directed towards the center of the crown and thickening it are also removed.
Cherry grafting makes the plant more resistant to unfavorable climates, improves the taste of the berries and increases their quantity. For the procedure to be successful, it is carried out in the warm season. Then the fusion of the scion and rootstock occurs before the onset of cold weather. When choosing a grafting method, take into account the characteristics of the mother tree.
Methods for propagating cherries
There are several ways to propagate cherries. The most common of them is grafting it onto another tree. In addition, you can use the seed method or the vegetative method using cuttings. Some varieties of cherries can be propagated by root shoots.
The seed method is the longest and most unreliable. When grown from seed, cherries often lose their varietal characteristics and grow wild. However, there remains the possibility of getting a varietal tree. To do this, you need to very carefully select planting material, using seeds of only the largest and most delicious fruits.
It is very important that the seeds are taken from cherries that grow in the same region. Seed material taken from fruits grown in more southern regions (even sweeter and tastier ones) cannot be used. Seedlings from such seeds will, of course, sprout, but with a high degree of probability they will die in the first winter.
Before planting, seeds must undergo a stratification procedure. This is usually done in winter by placing the seeds in a box with wet sand and placing it in a cold place (you can simply bury it in the snow). In spring, the seeds are sown in prepared soil.
The propagation method by cuttings is not suitable for all varieties. The average percentage of rooting of cuttings does not exceed 10, and only in rare varieties can it reach 50%, which is a very good indicator.
Grafting is the simplest and most effective method of propagating cherries. Its essence is to graft a shoot of the desired cherry variety onto a wild seedling of another fruit tree.
For propagation by root shoots, two-year-old shoots, separated from the main trunk by at least a quarter of a meter, are suitable. They are carefully dug out along with part of the mother root and transplanted to a new location.
Reproduction of cherries by layering
The propagation method by layering is used mainly on fruit bushes. Fruit trees are propagated by air layering. This method is widely used for apple and other fruit trees, but for cherries it is used extremely rarely.
Advantages and disadvantages of this method
The advantage of this method is that a ready-made adult seedling can be grown within one season. The disadvantage is that it does not always work on cherries.
How to propagate cherries by layering
The essence of the air layering method is to surround the growing branch with soil. A bush shoot can simply be bent to the ground and covered with soil, but this will not work with a fruit tree. Therefore, a container with soil is placed directly in the crown of the tree, placing a growing branch of a fruit tree in it.
The process of obtaining air layering is as follows. The shoot selected for propagation is ringed by removing a strip of bark 1.5–2 cm wide from it. Then the cut is treated with a root formation stimulator, covered with a moist soil substrate and wrapped in plastic film. The edges of the film are firmly fixed with tape.
In such a moist soil environment the root system develops. In the fall, the entire shoot is cut off from the mother tree and placed in a greenhouse for growing; after the formation of a full-fledged root system, it is transferred to open ground to a permanent place.
Propagation of cherries by cuttings
Cherries propagated by cuttings will retain all the varietal characteristics of the mother tree. Its berries will be just as tasty, and you will have to wait no longer than five years for them.
When can you root cherry cuttings?
For preparing cuttings, layerings from the lower part of the tree that have turned red and hardened at the base are suitable. They are cut off in early June. The length of each should be approximately 30–35 cm. The procedure should be carried out with a sharp, clean knife, in the morning or evening, while it is cool outside. The cut cuttings are immediately placed in water.
Preparing the soil for planting cherries with cuttings
The soil for planting cuttings must be specially prepared. High-quality prepared soil should differ:
- breathability;
- moisture capacity;
- absence of any worms, larvae;
- lack of roots of other plants;
- absence of infections.
Most often, a mixture of peat, river sand and turf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2 is used as a nutrient mixture for planting cuttings.
Propagation of cherries by cuttings at home
Apricots that have recently entered fruiting are best suited for cuttings. The cut is made from below at an angle of 45°, from above at a right angle. The cut cuttings must have 3 full leaves, the distance from the lowest to the beginning of the cut must be at least 3 cm.
How to plant cherry cuttings
Before rooting the cherry cuttings, they are placed for 16–20 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin), immersing them by 2 cm. Then the cuttings are planted vertically in prepared containers with nutrient soil or in a greenhouse under film.
Rooting cherry cuttings
After planting the cuttings, it is important to ensure that the soil does not dry out. Watering should be abundant and timely. The first adventitious roots should appear on the cuttings after 3 weeks, and complete rooting will occur after 1.5 months.
To increase the percentage of rooting of cuttings, you can use the following method. 10 days before cutting, future cuttings are wrapped with several turns of cloth tape at the site of the future cut. During this time, the cambium of the tree bark becomes discolored without access to sunlight, which increases root formation in this place by about 30%.
Will a cherry branch give roots in water?
Cherries, like most other stone fruit trees, are unlikely to be forced to take root in this way. However, there are exceptions. In order for the cherry to take root in water, you need to carry out a number of manipulations:
- In the fall, select several good 1-2 year old side branches.
- Break them without damaging the bark at intervals of 15–20 cm.
- Secure the branch in a state of fracture by tying it to a straight splint branch.
- In the spring, cut the branch at the break points and place it in water.
A dark plastic bottle with the neck cut off works well for cuttings. You need to fill it with rainwater, add two tablets of activated carbon, place the cuttings in it and place them on the windowsill. After about 3 weeks, root formation will begin. After the roots are 5–7 cm long, the cuttings can be planted in nutrient soil.
Growing cherries from cuttings
It is best to keep the planted cuttings in a mini-greenhouse. It is important to provide future seedlings with an optimal microclimate, maintaining a temperature of about +25°C even at night and high humidity. Watering should be done frequently, 5-6 times a day. If rot occurs, you need to reduce the amount of water, but not the number of waterings.
How to root a cherry branch in open ground
Not every branch can be rooted. So it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to grow a cherry from a twig by simply breaking it off a neighbor’s tree and sticking it in the ground. Even specially prepared cuttings taken at a certain period do not always take root. If the timing and parameters are suitable, you can try to make a cutting from it and root a cherry twig in this way.
