Many gardeners are faced with putrefactive diseases on tomatoes and poor yields. Most often, they are caused by an incorrect planting scheme, in which the distance between plants is less than required.
We'll tell you at what distance to plant tomatoes using different growing methods - in open and closed ground. We will also tell you which planting scheme is best to choose based on the current conditions in the garden.
What determines the distance between tomatoes?
Tomato varieties have different structures and bush heights. This is the main factor determining the placement of tomato seedlings. In total, two types of varieties of this plant can be distinguished.
Indeterminate varieties are distinguished by a powerful, tall bush (the stems of individual tomatoes can reach up to 3 m). At the same time, the above-ground part is compact, but the root system is highly developed in the horizontal direction. Indeterminate tomatoes require a large feeding area. Crowded planting leads to competition for nutrients, which reduces yields.
Determinate varieties of tomatoes can also be tall - individual bushes reach a height of 1.5 m. These plants require pinching, after which two main stems remain. They usually require tying up, but even in this state they can be spreading. Thickening of plantings of determinate varieties leads to deterioration of pollination and premature shedding of ovaries.
In addition to the type of tomatoes, the planting pattern is also influenced by the method of cultivation: there is a different approach to placement in open and closed ground.
What is the importance of properly spacing tomatoes?
The planting scheme is given high priority, since the success of the harvest depends on it, especially if there are many bushes, different varieties are present and maximum yield is expected. The interval between bushes and rows should be such that the plants receive high-quality lighting and air circulates freely between them.
Thickened plantings can lead to such negative consequences as:
- Inhibition of development and decrease in fertility due to shadows cast by neighboring tomatoes.
- Parasitizing strong plants on weak ones, robbing them of nutrients and moisture.
- The susceptibility of seedlings to various kinds of diseases, and poor air circulation and close contact of plants will contribute to the fastest spread of diseases (blight rot, late blight, blackleg).
Important : you should first study the specifics of each variety and prevent mature and developed bushes from coming into contact with each other.
Common schemes for planting tomato seedlings
On private farms, tomatoes are usually grown through seedlings, and the possibilities for placing them are limited. Therefore, we will tell you which schemes are used in these cases. There will be four of them:
- lowercase;
- parallel;
- square-nested;
- chess.
With a row planting scheme, seedlings are planted in a straight line one after another. Only one row is allowed in the garden bed; the distance between the tomatoes is 30–70 cm. The greater the height of the bushes, the greater the distance must be maintained between them. The line diagram makes it easier to care for plants, which is why it is the most common in amateur gardens.
A parallel scheme involves placing 2–3 rows of tomatoes on one bed. The row spacing here is 40–75 cm, depending on the variety. More often they make two tapes, with a distance between them of about a meter. This method provides good ventilation in the plantings and makes them easier to care for. In amateur beds 70 cm wide, tomatoes can be planted in two rows with a distance of 40–50 cm from each other.
With a square-nest pattern, the bed is divided into squares, the length of the sides can be:
- 35x35 cm;
- 40×40 cm;
- 50x50 cm.
Tomatoes are planted in the corners of these squares. It turns out that there is the same distance between plants in one row and in adjacent rows. For low-growing tomatoes, choose a distance of 50x50 cm, then two seedling bushes can be planted in one hole. This scheme allows you to place more tomatoes in a limited area and prevents competition between them.
With a checkerboard planting pattern, the bed is marked out in the same way as for the parallel method. Seedlings are planted so that the bush of one row is opposite the middle of the adjacent row. With the checkerboard method of growing tomatoes, the distance is maintained at 25x40 cm, 35x40 cm or 40x50, depending on the growing season and the height of the bush.
If you grow tomatoes from seeds, then pay attention to the information on the bags. Here, producers report the dates and planting plans for the variety.
Landing technology
When planning to plant tomatoes in the ground, you need to figure out at what distance from each other to place the seedlings. Planting technology is also important.
When planting tomatoes in greenhouses or open ground, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the region and the planned harvest time. In protected soil, the fruits ripen earlier. This is facilitated by the absence of temperature changes between night and day, and a stable microclimate. The likelihood of soil drying out or plants getting too cold is minimized.
Advice! It is best to plant young bushes in the evening. But if the weather is cloudy outside, the landing is postponed until lunchtime.
An hour before the planned planting, you should water the seedlings generously with warm water. The plants are removed from the containers so as not to disturb the earthen lump and not damage the root system. The bushes are planted in pre-prepared holes vertically or at a slight angle. You can pour compost into the holes in which you plan to place the seedlings.
After moving the seedlings into the main soil, it is necessary to water them. 1-2 liters of water are poured under each plant. Low-growing varieties do not need to be tied up, but tall varieties are tied up using pegs or trellises.
When planting plants, it is important to adhere to deadlines. To do this, you should sow the seeds in February-March. Having received strong seedlings with 7-9 leaves, a thick strong stem and a developed root system, you can begin planning planting.
You can plant seedlings in unheated greenhouses as early as late April – early May. You should focus on the length of daylight hours, the ambient temperature and the temperature of the air and soil in the greenhouse. When planting in unprotected soil, it is better to wait until June. The likelihood of frost and cold snaps should be minimized.
Selecting a distance depending on the height of the bush
The distance between tomato bushes is affected by the height of the adult plant. Too much distance leads to irrational use of land, and thickening leads to stunted growth, reduced yield and the development of fungal diseases, especially at high humidity.
Tomatoes can be low-growing, medium-growing and tall-growing. Distances are selected taking these points into account.
For low-growing tomatoes
Most varieties of low-growing tomatoes have a compact crown and a not very developed root system. For such plants, a checkerboard planting pattern with a distance between rows of 50 cm and a distance of 30 cm in a row is optimal. This arrangement allows up to 10 seedling bushes to be planted per square meter.
Other planting schemes can also be used, but they will not be as successful. An exception would be the tape method, which is universal for bushes of any height.
For medium-sized tomatoes
It is more convenient to grow medium-sized tomatoes in the parallel and square-cluster method. In the latter case, one plant is planted in the corners of the squares. This placement allows for compact plantings without unnecessary thickening.
In a parallel pattern, the distance between the rows is 70–80 cm, the distance between the bushes is 50 cm. If the square-nest method is used, the length of the sides of the square will be 50x50 cm.
You can increase the distance if the bushes grow spreading.
For tall tomatoes
It is more convenient to grow tall tomatoes in a strip or parallel pattern. The distance between the bushes is made at least 70 cm, and they try to maintain 1 m between the rows. For indeterminate varieties, it is not advisable to reduce this distance; determinate tomatoes can be planted at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other, and leave 90 cm of free space between the rows.
This distance is the same for growing in open and closed ground. The square-cluster and checkerboard pattern for growing tall varieties of tomatoes is rarely used - caring for such plantings is difficult. Parallel and strip planting, in addition to easier care, have another advantage: the plants receive the necessary amount of air and ultraviolet light.
When choosing a planting scheme, take into account the placement of the support - tall varieties require a garter.
Varietal features
The preferred planting technology is directly related to the selected tomato variety. Before planting, you should understand the technology for growing early tomatoes and choose the optimal planting scheme.
Early varieties can be planted close to each other, because most of them are determinate. After the formation of 4-7 clusters, stem growth stops. It is not difficult to care for them; there is no need to pinch the growth point or remove excess shoots. When planting, it is optimal to leave 30 cm between bushes. Row spacing is 45-55 cm.
Mid-season varieties require more space. They grow larger and leafier. Agronomists recommend that owners of personal plots who choose tomatoes with an average ripening period plant young seedlings in the ground at a distance of 45 cm between bushes and 65 cm between rows.
Late-ripening tomato varieties require space. Most of them are tall, and several stems are formed as they grow. It is more difficult to care for indeterminate species, but their yield is much higher if the correct placement system is selected. It is necessary to leave at least 45 cm between plants, and the distance from one bed to another should be about 75 cm.
Tips for outdoor placement
When choosing a place to plant tomatoes, give preference to hills in an open area, but with protection from the wind. Ideally, if the bed is located in the direction from north to south, then the tomatoes will receive the required amount of sunlight.
In open ground, beds 1 m wide are made for tomatoes; the length depends on the size of the plot. If possible, raise the bed by 20–25 cm; these are the best conditions for tomatoes. It is necessary to add organic matter: 5 kg of good compost per square meter. In such a bed, tomatoes can be planted using a checkerboard pattern.
Tall varieties in high beds are often planted in one row, with a distance of 70 cm between bushes. This placement makes gartering, pinching, spraying and watering easier. Tomatoes will also be easier to harvest; the fruits will not be damaged when picked.
Cabbage (white cabbage and broccoli)
Crops such as bush beans and celery have a beneficial effect on cabbage. The latter, for example, protects cabbage from flea beetles.
Cabbage and celery make great neighbors
Also, white cabbage and broccoli get along well with peas, cucumbers, carrots, spinach, tomatoes, beets, and chicory. Dill has a positive effect: planted between rows, it improves the taste of cabbage and repels aphids and caterpillars. And aromatic herbs save this crop from cabbage butterflies: thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, chamomile.
Cabbage does not go well with crops such as parsley, garlic, grapes, turnips and tansy.
The best neighbors for this crop are spinach, beans, and bush beans. The latter, in particular, enriches the soil with nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle.
If this striped pest does not allow the potatoes to develop well in your area, plant catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy or marigolds nearby.
Potatoes are not a picky crop when choosing neighbors. Therefore, it is easier to list which plants it is not recommended to plant with. These are quinoa, cucumbers, pumpkin, asparagus, sunflowers and celery.
Garden strawberries (strawberries) are recommended to be planted next to bush beans, spinach and parsley. It can also be combined with garlic, onions, radishes, radishes, beets, dill, and lettuce.
Related article: Potatoes did not sprout - causes and methods of eliminating the problem
But you shouldn't place strawberries next to horseradish.
Onions go perfectly with carrots. These crops protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly. Due to its compact shape, onions thrive in the inter-rows of main crops such as beets, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, and radishes.
It is recommended to plant onions and carrots side by side not only because these crops have a beneficial effect on each other. And they are compactly located in the garden bed
Some herbs have a positive effect on onions: thyme, chamomile (no more than one plant per meter of bed).
But proximity to beans, asparagus, watercress, peas and beans is contraindicated for it.
This crop tolerates the proximity of many plants well, but develops best next to onions, peas and spinach. And herbs such as dill, anise, celery and parsley cannot be planted nearby. They act in a depressing way.
Cucumbers go well with bush and climbing beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, spinach, fennel, dill, basil, and marjoram. But it is best to plant beans around a bed of cucumbers: they help the plants develop faster.
It is not recommended to plant cucumbers next to potatoes and pumpkins.
But there are conflicting opinions about tomatoes; some gardeners doubt the fruitfulness of such a neighborhood.
Pepper feels great next to eggplant, kohlrabi, tomatoes, basil and thyme.
And hostile plants are fennel, beans and beets.
Tips for placing in a greenhouse and greenhouse
The planting pattern and spacing for tomatoes in a greenhouse depend on its design features. Usually one or two aisles are left in the greenhouse, respectively, there will be two or three beds. In the first case, it will be possible to use parallel planting, and in the second, it is more appropriate to place tomato seedlings using a strip method.
The distance between the bushes in the greenhouse and in the greenhouse should be at least 40 cm, and between the rows - 50–60 cm. These values cannot be reduced in any case, otherwise a favorable environment will be created for the development of fungal diseases.
Remember that for closed ground, one bush must have at least 0.3 sq.m of surface area.
Plant compatibility.
Neighbors for carrots.
What can I plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:
And here is a negative neighborhood for carrots:
Optimal conditions for pepper.
What vegetables are recommended to plant peppers next to? Pepper grows well next to:
Do not plant peppers near beans.
Potatoes and their neighbors.
What can I plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:
You can’t plant potatoes if they grow nearby:
Neighbors of tomatoes.
It is recommended to grow tomatoes next to:
- asparagus;
- basil;
- beans;
- cucumbers;
- carrots;
- celery;
- dill;
- salad;
- melons;
- onions;
- parsley;
- pepper;
- radishes;
- spinach;
- thyme;
Do not place tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn next to each other.
Neighbors for asparagus.
What can you plant asparagus next to? An excellent neighborhood for asparagus would be:
What should you not plant asparagus with?
Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.
Neighbors for beans.
What can you plant beans next to? Optimal neighborhood for beans:
- broccoli;
- corn;
- cabbage;
- carrot;
- celery;
- cauliflower;
- cucumbers;
- eggplant;
- peas;
- potato;
- radish;
- zucchini;
- strawberry;
- tomatoes.
Undesirable neighborhood for beans:
Neighbors in the beet bed.
What can you plant beets next to? Beets will give a greater yield next to:
Undesirable neighbors in the beet bed:
Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.
What should I plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:
Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:
- cabbage;
- cauliflower;
- salad;
- green beans;
- tomatoes.
Brussels sprouts bed neighbors.
What is the best place to plant Brussels sprouts next to? Best neighbors:
Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor: tomatoes.
Neighbors for cabbage.
What can I plant cabbage next to?
Undesirable neighbors in the cabbage bed:
Cauliflower and its neighbors.
It is recommended to plant cauliflower next to the following plants:
Related article: Potato planting patterns - distances between rows and holes
Bad neighbors for cauliflower:
Companions of celery.
Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But it’s better to grow it next to:
- beans;
- broccoli;
- cabbage;
- cauliflower;
- leeks;
- spinach;
- tomatoes.
What beds to make next to cucumbers?
It is recommended to plant cucumbers next to:
- beans;
- broccoli;
- corn;
- cabbage;
- cauliflower;
- sunflowers;
- peas;
- salad;
- radish.
Cucumbers should not be planted next to herbs, melons and potatoes.
Corn and its neighborhood.
Where is it recommended to plant corn next? Optimal neighbors:
But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!
Recommendations for eggplants.
Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:
Lettuce.
Optimal bed companions for lettuce:
- asparagus;
- beet;
- cabbage;
- Brussels sprouts;
- carrot;
- corn;
- cucumbers;
- onion;
- peas;
- eggplant;
- potato;
- radish;
- spinach;
- strawberry;
- sunflowers;
- tomatoes.
But broccoli is the worst companion for lettuce.
What should I plant onions next to?
The best neighborhood for onions will be:
Peas and their neighbors in the garden.
What vegetables should I place next to the pea beds? Peas feel great next to:
- beans;
- carrots;
- corn;
- cucumbers;
- eggplants;
- salad;
- melons;
- parsnip;
- potatoes;
- radishes;
- spinach;
- turnip.
Do not plant peas near beds with onions and garlic.
Useful weeds in the garden.
Sometimes plants can only be beneficial to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of soil and bring them to the surface. As weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available at the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. This is why some vegetables grow very well next to nettles.
I hope you liked the article about plant compatibility in the garden .
Potatoes and strawberries
Planting strawberries next to a potato plantation is tantamount to inviting all the surrounding wireworms to dinner. In addition, in rainy weather the berries are susceptible to gray and black rot. The infection inevitably affects potato tubers.
Another common enemy of strawberries and potatoes is the nematode. To prevent its spread, marigolds are planted on the border of the potato field. Potato and strawberry beds must be separated by a strip of carrots, beets, radishes or spinach.
Potatoes and pumpkins
A common problem with potatoes and plants from the pumpkin family is late blight. Cucumbers are especially susceptible to it. Therefore, in the literature there are categorical prohibitions on planting cucumbers and pumpkins near potatoes.
In practice, cucumbers can be planted near potatoes, but only in a mini-greenhouse. Wooden or metal arches are installed on the bed, and a film is stretched on top. In dry weather, the film is removed, giving the cucumbers access to air and sunlight. But at night the plants must be covered, protecting the leaves from dew. Also, you should not allow pesticides to come into contact with cucumbers when spraying potatoes.
Zucchini and squash are less vulnerable; they do not require a greenhouse. As for the pumpkin, you need to constantly adjust its vines, preventing them from getting close to the potato tops. When the pumpkins begin to fill, it is better to prevent their contact with the ground by placing planks under them.
Potatoes and cruciferous vegetables
Potatoes go well with all types of cabbage. Beds with these crops can be placed nearby, but it is not recommended to follow the advice of planting cabbage in potato rows: cabbage needs a lot of light, and potato tops shade it. In dense plantings, cabbage and potatoes become infected with blackleg.
It is also allowed to plant potatoes with other cruciferous vegetables: radishes, radishes. To save space, radishes are sown in early spring in the middle of double potato beds. In May, potatoes are planted along the edges, and radishes are soon dug up. If the row spacing is wide (1 m or more), sowing radishes in them is allowed.
Mustard is one of the best green manures; the secretions from its roots disinfect the soil. The plant is sown between rows, but is completely cut off when the shoots are equal in height to the potato tops. Mustard roots remain in the ground, decompose and serve as additional fertilizer.
