Sheltering blackberries for the winter in the middle zone: terms and rules

Autumn is coming - it's time to take care of our garden blackberries, which all summer treated us with their beautiful, fragrant and very healthy fruits. We ate a lot of them, put them in the freezer, cooked syrups, compotes, jams, and even ground them with sugar for short-term storage in the refrigerator to add to yoghurts, mix with sour cream for pancakes and homemade cheesecakes.

It is very important that autumn does not take us by surprise and leaves us time to properly prepare the blackberry bushes for the winter, for which we need to take care of mulch, the necessary mineral fertilizers and, first of all, the materials and objects with which we will cover the blackberries for the winter.

To cover blackberries or not? How to cover? Should we cover only frost-resistant varieties or frost-resistant ones too? And most importantly, why cover? Such questions tend to confuse novice gardeners, but they have many ways to dispel their doubts, for example, by reading the information in this article.

In addition, even experienced country agronomists will most likely find interesting details and important details here, if not in the method of covering plants for the winter, then in the materials and methods of this important gardening event. Everything must be done in such a way that, as a result of all comprehensive measures, the blackberries not only survive severe frosts safely, but also produce a rich harvest of their beautiful and tasty drupes next season.

Is it necessary to cover blackberries for the winter: terms and rules

Fruiting occurs on the shoots of the previous season. The purpose of the shelter is to prevent them from freezing and dying from frost . Therefore, a careful owner will take care of the proper preparation of blackberries for winter. Varieties whose descriptions indicate average frost resistance tolerate frosts down to -15°C. At lower temperatures, they will definitely need shelter.

After the vines are covered with any material, a warmer microclimate will be established underneath than outside. As a result, condensation may appear and its consequence - mold. To avoid this, the shelter is built no earlier than the second ten days of November. By this point, the ground will freeze and will not act as an additional source of heat. The air temperature at this time should be about -5°C.

Important! Uncovered varieties are those that bear fruit on the shoots of the current season.

When to cover bushes

In nature, blackberries tolerate cold seasons without problems, but extreme frosts can lead to the death of fruit-bearing shoots. The other extreme is early insulation or the return of heat after the first snow falls. In such cases, a positive temperature is created inside the shelter, the bushes begin to grow, which leads to the formation of condensation.

Dampness causes rotting processes on leaves and roots, which can lead to the death of plants. With the return of negative temperatures, water turns into ice, which is destructive for garden crops.

Based on such risks, the optimal time for conservation is the end of October-beginning of November, depending on the climate zone. The main condition is the establishment of dry, stable weather in the fall in the temperature range of 0...+5°C. By this time, the bushes will have recovered after pruning and will get rid of excess moisture.

Activities before the shelter

Preparations for wintering begin with clearing the garden of leaves, removing dry branches and weeds. Then the soil is dug up to destroy some of the overwintering pests. Blackberry bushes are pruned and sprayed against diseases with 1% Bordeaux mixture or another copper-based preparation (for diseases). And only after that they cover.

Trimming: step-by-step instructions

Test the tool before you begin. It must be well sharpened. The cutting edges are wiped with alcohol before cutting each next plant. If any bush is infected with fungi or viruses, you will not transfer these microorganisms to healthy plants. Most varieties have thorns along the entire length of the shoots. Therefore, wear gloves.

Important! Pruning is always done after the first frost. At this time, the sap flow has stopped and the bush will suffer less from stress.

Trimming algorithm:

1. Start trimming from the outer edge, gradually moving towards the center.
2. It is safe for the plant to shorten the branches by about 1/3. This leaves room for them to grow and branch next year.
3. Remove dead stems at ground level, leaving no stumps. They can become a source of infection of the bush by fungi or pests.
4. Of 2 shoots that are less than 5 cm apart, leave only one. Otherwise, the bush will be too thick, which is good for pests, but bad for the health of the blackberry.
5. Stems that will no longer bear fruit are also removed. This will stimulate new growth in the spring.

Weeding, loosening

The purpose of loosening is to give oxygen access to the roots of the plant. It is necessary for the development of beneficial soil microorganisms that participate in the process of processing minerals contained in the soil, thereby improving the nutrition of the bush. The loose texture also promotes root development - they grow better.

Autumn loosening is also carried out in order to destroy some of the pests whose larvae have prepared for wintering in the ground. it using a garden hoe or cultivator. Weeds most likely will not grow in late autumn. But if there is weed, be sure to remove it from the area where the vines will be laid.

Watering and fertilizing

Considering that blackberries are a wild plant and not many cultivated varieties have been bred, the agricultural technology of a garden crop is not too different from that of a forest crop. In summer it is watered as the soil dries out . This shrub is quite frost-resistant and will grow at any intensity of watering. But lack of moisture reduces berry size and yield, since the fruit is mainly composed of water. Pre-winter watering is not necessary for the plant. The moisture that it receives along with rainwater is enough.

Blackberries consume small amounts of nutrients. An abundance of fertilizer will stimulate the growth of shoots and leaves, but not fruits. Therefore, before fertilizing, look at the bush carefully. Powerful and tall shoots indicate that feeding is not needed. Under a weak bush, you need to add 100 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium fertilizers without chlorine. To ensure they are absorbed, thoroughly water the soil around the plant. Watering depth - 10 cm.

Some gardeners also add 5 kg of compost for each plant. But it contains nitrogen in large quantities. It can activate the autumn growth of shoots, which can weaken the bush and consume the nutrients it needs in the spring. Therefore, other gardeners believe that it is better to add organic matter in early spring, with the beginning of sap flow.

To cover frost-resistant blackberry varieties or not

We know that varieties of garden blackberries are divided into frost-resistant and non-frost-resistant, which must be covered for the winter. Frost resistance of blackberries only means its ability not to die in frosty winters, but this does not mean that everything will pass without a trace for it.

Most likely, such blackberries will pay for their survival with part of the harvest. The most direct conclusion suggests itself: if you want a high yield of blackberry drupes, cover even its frost-resistant varieties - you will get a full harvest of a full-fledged vitamin berry.

Experience shows that covered blackberry bushes, even in the southern regions, in conditions of a fairly mild winter, where frosty days last a maximum of 2-3 weeks, also produce an increased yield.

The champion in frost resistance is considered to be the blackberry variety "Agave", which can withstand frosts below -20 C, at which part of the young branches freezes. Yes, they will give new shoots during the spring, but they will bear fruit only next season. Frost-resistant blackberries include “Giant” and “Chester thornless.”

Of which, I hope, there is no doubt: every summer resident is his own agronomist and foreman, who all the more need to correctly carry out the whole troublesome procedure of covering plants for the winter. And blackberries - a grateful plant - will yield a rich harvest.

Insulation of blackberry plot

It is not recommended to lay vines directly on the ground. A layer of cardboard, spruce branches, straw, even just boards is placed underneath them. The stems are removed from the supports, tied with twine and placed on this ground cover layer.

In regions with harsh winters, the shelter is always multi-layered:

• spacer between the soil and the plant: cardboard, board;
• then follows a layer of covering material: straw, spruce branches;
• then they put the vines;
• final layer of shelter: agrofibre, spruce branches, straw.

On top there may be a layer of polyethylene attached to a metal frame, like a mini-greenhouse. It is desirable that there be holes in it to organize air exchange.

ducking

There are 2 types of vines: climbing and erect. The first ones bend easily. To install them, simply remove them from the trellis. Upright ones are more difficult to install. They break when bent. Therefore, after harvesting, they begin to train them by hanging them on each load. Under its weight, the vine will gradually bend towards the ground. After this, you can put it in a shelter for the winter.

Planting blackberries

Find a place for blackberries that is well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, as wind can damage the leaves and berries of blackberries and interfere with pollination of flowers.

It is best to plant blackberries not on flat areas, but on southern or western slopes, so that the blackberry bush is not damaged by the eastern or northern wind. Blackberries grow well on drained, breathable, nutritious loams; they also do well on sandy loam soils. On carbonate soils, blackberries will lack magnesium and iron. The optimal pH value for blackberries is pH 6.

Before planting blackberries, it is necessary to bring the soil on the site into compliance with the agrotechnical requirements of the crop. To do this, it is advisable to free the area from weeds, pests and pathogens in the fall.

If you regularly fertilize the soil in the garden, then you do not need to apply fertilizer specifically for blackberries, otherwise they will rapidly grow greenery to the detriment of fruiting. But if the soil is depleted by crops that preceded blackberries, then when digging holes or furrows for blackberries, mix organic and mineral fertilizers with the top, folded layer of soil at the rate of 10 kg of organic matter (manure, compost or humus), 15 g of superphosphate, 25 g of potassium sulfate per one square meter of area and fill the roots of blackberry seedlings with this soil when planting.

If the seedlings have already been purchased and delivered, but the place for them has not been determined, do not rush to plant the plants anywhere. If you bury them obliquely in the shade in a dry place, covering the root ball (pot) and the lower part of the stem with soil, then in this form they will wait until mid-October, and in the worst case, even until spring.

Blackberries can hardly tolerate winters, especially frosty and snowless ones. Of course, there are frost-resistant varieties, but even they can die at temperatures below –20°C. With the rest, the situation is even more complicated, and you will have to work hard to preserve your prickly favorites.

How to cover

Covering materials are divided into organic: straw, spruce branches, foliage, tops and industrial: spunbond, agrofibre. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Did you know? Blackberries have antiviral, antibacterial and anticancer properties due to their high levels of ellagic acid.

Agricultural materials

Non-woven covering materials are made from synthetic fibers. They differ not only in the type of starting material, but also in density. To protect the shrub from frost, choose a density of 17–50 g/m².

The advantage of such synthetic fabrics is that they are permeable to air. No condensation is created under them. They are indifferent to pests and rodents that attack organic shelters. For winter shelters, non-woven covering material can be rolled up in several layers.

Important! Give preference to white materials, they reflect sunlight better. This means that the air in the shelter will not warm up too sharply.

Available means

Available means include everything that is available at the dacha “here and now.”

It could be:

• the soil;
• hay;
• vegetable tops;
• leaves.

Natural

Most of the available materials are natural. They are derived from plants. After processing grain crops, what remains is rice husks, chopped corn cobs, and straw. The woodworking industry is a source of wood chips and sawdust. You can collect spruce branches or peat from the forest, and leaves, plant tops, and grass from the home garden.

Not all materials are worth using. Leaves or tops can be a source of disease. And hay is also a potential source of weeds. In addition, blackberry bushes are equipped with thorns. In order not to waste time removing tops or hay from them, use something that is easy to place and then remove, for example, spruce branches. And also those materials that will be safe for your garden: straw, wood chips, buckwheat husks or seeds.

Synthetic

All non-woven films are of synthetic origin. They are made from polypropylene fiber. Spandond is one of the best materials for covering bushes, but not the only one. There are a number of agrofabrics that can be used for the same purpose: agril, agrospan, agrotex.

Spunbond is available in black and white. White is used for stretch covers, black is used for mulching the soil . No weeds grow under it. And it keeps plants covered well during wintering. The material is considered the best in terms of price and quality ratio. Its properties: it allows moisture and air to pass through well, condensation does not form under it, the sun's rays pass through it well, and it can withstand frosts down to -50°C. To create a good microclimate for the bushes, it is recommended to stretch the material over the frame. Upright shoots can simply be wrapped with it.

Find out when to remove winter cover from blackberries.
Ordinary polyethylene film is also suitable for constructing shelters. The main thing is to choose one that can withstand gusts of wind and snowfall. Its density should be about 42–60 g/m². You can cover the bushes with reinforced film. It is denser, can withstand any wind and will last for several seasons. In case of mechanical damage, the size of the hole in it will be limited by the cell, or more precisely by the reinforcing material that creates the boundaries of the cells. But its cost will be higher than that of ordinary film.

Another synthetic material is geotextiles. It is also created from polymer fibers. It can perfectly protect bushes from frost. Thanks to its good throughput, the vines under it do not become damp, and mold does not form in the shelter. The method of its application does not differ from that of spunbond.

Another covering material is lutrasil. They cover greenhouses and are used to protect bushes from frost. The recommended density of lutrasil is 50–60 g/m². It performs all the same functions as spunbond, but is more susceptible to ultraviolet radiation and will serve the gardener for only a couple of years. Its undeniable advantage is its relatively low cost.

Planting and caring for blackberries in the fall - useful tips for summer residents

How often do we plant raspberries and blackberries side by side, and then simultaneously water them, loosen them and fertilize them. The preparation of these crops for winter is also quite similar, but each has special requirements that must be taken into account. Let's take a closer look at the issues of planting, caring for and propagating blackberries.

Most fruit trees and berry bushes love autumn planting. Likewise in the case of blackberries, there is no need to delay planting until spring, since in autumn the conditions are more comfortable and there is enough time to adapt. True, in the fall it is more difficult to find good seedlings. Online stores that professionally sell seedlings will come to the rescue. In this case, we recommend paying attention to the website of the Sadko Garden Center, where the price of blackberry seedlings in Kyiv will pleasantly surprise you. Here you will find high-quality seedlings of the following varieties: “Columbia Star”, “Orcan”, “Thorn Free”, “Loch Tay”, “Prime Arc”, meeting the most demanding requirements of both amateur gardeners and those who grow berries for sale.

Methods and features of covering blackberry bushes

All bushes are covered according to the same scheme: the vines are disinfected with Bordeaux mixture, leaves are removed from the area where the branches will be laid, and a liner is made that will protect the blackberries from contact with the soil. This is a necessary step since the vines can take root when in contact with the soil. Then they wrap the bush with agricultural material and bend it to the gasket. For regions with cold winters, a layer of spruce branches is laid on top of the fixed blackberry shoots. You can replace pine branches by installing a frame and stretching covering material over it.

Video: Sheltering blackberries for the winter

Upright bushes, the vines of which cannot be bent to the ground, are wrapped in film. If there is a possibility of severe frosts, gardeners install a metal mesh around the plant and fill it with leaves or straw. In fact, this is the same shelter as on the ground, only installed vertically. The difference from the previous design is that it is designed for upright shoots.

No thorns

For plants without thorns, any type of covering material is suitable. The vines are removed from the support, a layer of straw is placed under them, bent, fixed and covered with agrofibre or spruce branches on top.

Learn how to properly plant and grow thornless blackberries.

In the first year

Bushes in the first year of growth can be covered with straw mats. A multi-layer cover made of spruce branches and spunbond is also suitable. It is not recommended to use materials that will cling to thorns. For example, hay, tops, leaves. You can also pack a plant wrapped in argo fiber in a foam box. This design best protects blackberries from frost.

Covering instructions:

1. Wrap the bush with agrofibre.
2. Install a grid around its circumference. The diameter of the structure is about 50 cm.
3. Fill the mesh with straw. It will serve as insulation for the bush.

Young bush

The plant is tied in a bundle and wrapped in spunbond. It can also be bent to the ground in this form. Be sure to mulch the soil in the root zone to protect the roots from freezing.

Did you know? Blackberries, like most berries, are very rich in antioxidants, fiber, and a number of other health-promoting nutrients. For example, vitamin C in it is 35% of the daily requirement.

Algorithm for covering a bush:

1. Remove branches from fastenings.
2. Twist them into a rope, but not too tightly.
3. Wrap with agrofibre.
4. Bend it, placing it on cardboard, spruce branches or a board panel.
5. An upright shrub is not laid, but the bush is fixed in agrofibre with a mesh, in the middle of which straw is placed as insulation.

old bush

Old bushes have a developed root system and do not need wintering. Upright blackberry varieties are more resistant to frost. Therefore, they also do not need careful shelter. But if you are not sure that your plants will safely survive the drop in temperature and the buds will not die, use a horizontal or vertical winter shelter.

It is recommended to use structures covering blackberries if thaws in the region in winter are often replaced by frosts. The moisture formed on the buds during the thaw will turn it into ice and break it when the temperature drops. In this case, it does not matter how low the thermometer drops.

Instructions for covering an old bush:

1. After stable negative temperatures have established, the root zone is covered with mulch. The thickness of the layer is about 10 cm. It will protect the roots from temperature changes and damage during sudden temperature changes.
2. The branches are disconnected from the trellis.
3. Wrap it in spunbond and bend it to a layer of mulch.

Preliminary preparation

Before covering blackberries for the winter, it is necessary to carry out preparatory procedures.

Trimming

Blackberry shoots live their full cycle in two years, after which they lose their ability to bear fruit and dry out. In autumn, such branches, as well as all diseased and excess stems, need to be cut off. The remaining ones are shortened by 15-20 cm, since blackberries grow greatly over the summer. The root shoots are also removed.

I talk more about the technology of forming and thinning shrubs in the article “How to prune blackberries in the fall.”

Loosening and weeding

A hard soil crust prevents the penetration of oxygen to the underground part of the plant and interferes with the development of the root system. This weakens the crop, which is dangerous on the eve of cold weather. Therefore, in the fall it is necessary to loosen the soil around each blackberry bush. Be careful not to dig too deep to avoid damaging the roots.

• At the same time, remove all weeds and remaining green growth, and then send them to the compost heap or burn them.

Watering and fertilizing

After autumn pruning, blackberries need nutrition that will help them better survive the cold. Use mineral and organic fertilizers without nitrogen. The latter provokes plant growth, so it is not added to the soil before winter.

How to feed blackberries in the fall:

• special seasonal fertilizers - Autumn or others;
• superphosphate at the rate of 100 g per bush in combination with the same amount of potassium sulfate;
• potassium monophosphate – 30 g per plant;
• wood ash, peat or compost.

Compost contains nitrogen, so be careful with the dosage - do not overfeed the bush. It is better to limit yourself to mineral fertilizers and leave organic matter for the spring.

If the autumn turns out to be dry, the blackberries will need water-replenishing watering. It is done shortly before the shelter. The approximate amount of water is 2-3 buckets per bush.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Partial prevention against pests is carried out through loosening, when the larvae sleeping in the ground appear on the surface and die. To treat the upper part of the plant, a 1% Bordeaux mixture is traditionally used. It needs to be sprayed evenly over the bush, carefully treating each stem. For work, choose a dry sunny day.

If the blackberry was seriously ill in the summer or was badly damaged by insects, stronger chemicals will have to be used.

Make sure that in the next two days there is no precipitation that could wash away the applied preparations. They should dry naturally on the plant.

Ezhemalina: care in autumn and preparation for winter

As you can guess from the name, ezhemalina is a hybrid of raspberries and blackberries, which combines the properties of these berry plants. In some varieties of blackberries, the characteristics of blackberries predominate, in others - raspberries.

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, it was possible to obtain an unpretentious, high-yielding crop that is resistant to drought and frost.

An adult plant with long flexible stems and large berries collected in clusters, looks more like a blackberry.

Compared to raspberries, hybrids produce good yields.

Latest articles about gardening

Watering and fertilizing

If the soil is dry, be sure to water the blackberries well, using 3-4 buckets per adult bush. The roots should overwinter in moist soil. Accompany watering with fertilizing. Fertilizers suitable for autumn:

• Superphosphate (40–50 g/m²) and potassium sulfate (20 g/m²) are applied together, preferably into grooves 20–30 cm deep, dug along the bushes at a distance of half a meter. The granules are distributed, the furrows are watered and leveled.
• Any garden fertilizer marked “Autumn” according to the instructions.
• Wood ash - up to 1 kg per bush. The soil is powdered with it, loosened and watered.

It is advisable to apply autumn phosphorus-potassium fertilizers before leaf fall, when nutrition from the ground continues.

Advantages of blackberry propagation by layering

This method of propagation can be easily mastered even without many years of gardening experience. However, to obtain planting material, you must have at least one adult blackberry bush of the variety you like. Experts note that when using apical layering for propagation, the yield of the shrub does not decrease.

This method consists of stimulating root formation on the shoots until they need to be separated from the bush. This allows the seedling to fully develop due to nutrition from the mother plant, which accelerates its development. Such blackberry bushes can easily be transplanted to a permanent place in the future, since they receive all the nutritional components at the initial stage of growth.

The main advantages of this method of vegetative propagation:

• the opportunity to obtain a lot of planting material;
• new plants are adapted to the climate of the growing region;
• 100% success if the rules are followed;
• simplicity of the procedure;
• minimum amount of time spent;
• rapid survival of young bushes.

Important! Reproduction by apical layering is possible not only for blackberries, but also for all crops with long branching shoots from the genus Rubus.

How to correctly form a bush

It is very important to prune blackberry bushes correctly, because the quality and quantity of the harvest depends on it. On the other hand, don’t be afraid to trim off extra branches.

It is better for a plant to be “liquid” than vice versa. A bush that is too thick will produce a meager harvest, the berries will be small, and it will be very difficult to pick them.

Find out more about the nuances of caring for blackberries Chester Thornless, Black Satin, Giant, Ruben, Thornfree.

in spring

The spring pruning procedure should be carried out when the time of frost has passed, and at night the temperature remains above zero. This is done like this:

• The bushes are inspected to determine which branches have successfully overwintered and which have frozen. Healthy lashes are elastic, brown and shiny. Dead branches are black and break easily;
• Using sharp pruning shears, you can completely cut off the vines that did not survive the winter, those that are sick, those affected by pests, as well as the old growth left over from the fall. This should be done 1-2 cm below the ground level, without leaving stumps;
• Suspicious and doubtful shoots are best cut off;
• if the tops of the lashes are frozen and dry, they need to be cut off;
• from the surviving stems, the strongest 5-7 pieces are selected, the rest are removed at the root;
• from the remaining branches a crown is formed, which is tied to a trellis.

Learn how to plant, prune, cure, and protect blackberries from pests.

in autumn

Autumn pruning prepares plants for winter. It should be started immediately after the end of fruiting:

• Last year's stems that have just borne fruit are cut off at the root with pruning shears, leaving no traces;
• in the same way, low-quality young growth is removed: thin and small shoots damaged by aphids and other pests;
• Of the healthy young branches, 8-10 of the strongest ones are left, taking into account that not all will survive the winter. For a healthy normal bush, 5-7 stems are enough;
• the remaining shoots are shortened by 1/4. The bush is ready for shelter for the winter;
• remontant varieties are much easier to prepare for wintering: all branches are cut off below ground level. Only the root needs to be covered.

Important! When cutting stems, you should not leave stumps: harmful insects can settle in them or they will become a breeding ground for diseases.

Video: how to prune blackberries Find out about thornless, remontant, winter-hardy, and new varieties of blackberries.

How to shape blackberries: reviews

While the bushes are young (1-2 years), we leave everything that is there. In the future, on more mature bushes, you can leave from 4 to 10-12 shoots, depending on the variety, planting density and other conditions. Usually the first shoots that emerge from the ground are left, as they are more powerful. It is also recommended to do the final pruning in the spring, since during the winter there can be significant “attacks” - freezing, damage by mice, from fungal diseases, etc.

faust https://plodpitomnik.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10294&sid=2c46a9510afd8c396a1ea8aad228744c#p10294

And I don’t want to trim the blackberries, it seems to me that long vines are more convenient to care for than a bunch of semi-long lashes, each of which will have a branch angle - an additional danger of breaking when covering or lifting onto a trellis. I really have a maximum of 2-3 meters of lashes so far, but I think I can also curb 5 meter ones

Samirel https://plodpitomnik.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10316&sid=2c46a9510afd8c396a1ea8aad228744c#p10316

If these branches (well, let them be branches, not shoots) are far from the root, then it’s not a problem - let them bulge. As soon as they grow a little, I tie them to the pipe and then they press a little against it (and, accordingly, to the main shoot). And when I untie the main shoot, it lies directly on the ground, and with it all the other branches of the second and third order sink low. But near the root and the main shoot it bristles (that is, quite high from the ground), and if there are also branches bristling on it in this place, then it will be... like mine

I missed Chester this year. I didn’t remove the branch at the very root; I regretted it. Not only has this branch grown 2 cm thick, but there is another branch of the third level on it as thick as a finger. And considering that the main shoot is 3cm thick... how can we bend all this together. If I had known that it would continue to branch through the leaf, almost to the very tip of the tail... of course, I would have picked off these shoots at the very beginning. Which, in fact, is what I intend to do in the future. I have already written that I am scared to imagine how I will hang this thick 10-meter shoot, on which there are at least two dozen thick and long branches, on a trellis in the spring.

volkoff https://club.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=5292&view=findpost&p=152839

Diseases and pests

Do I need to cover peonies for the winter? How to prepare peonies for winter

Among blackberry diseases, the following are quite common:

Anthracnose - appears when there is excess moisture, most often during prolonged rain and dampness. Purple spots and cankers appear on young stems, and in winter, the affected stems die.

To prevent the appearance of the disease, you should get rid of weeds and mulch with manure. Treated with fungicides, including Bordeaux mixture.

White spotting appears as slightly brownish white spots. It is treated with copper-containing medications.

Didimella leads to drying out of the foliage, death of the buds and drying out of the entire bush. The onset of the disease can be determined by brownish-purple spots on the shoots.

Gradually, the buds begin to turn black, and the foliage begins to become covered with spots, break and dry out. To protect yourself from this disease, you need to apply fertilizers on time and disinfect your kidneys with Bordeaux mixture in the spring.

Botrytis attacks the berries and covers them with gray rot. To prevent this from happening, you should not allow dense thickets in which the berries can begin to rot.

Powdery mildew is the most common disease. It covers all parts of the plant with a whitish coating. Treatment is usually carried out with copper-containing substances.

Pests may include mites, crimson bud moths, weevils, aphids, caterpillars and others. Usually, in order to destroy these pests, it is necessary to treat with insecticides, for example, Actellik or Fitoverm. Acaricides help against ticks.

How to properly protect garden blackberries from frost

In order for the shelter to fulfill its protective function, it must be installed correctly. Below are step-by-step instructions for wrapping garden blackberries for cold regions of the country.

1. In the circle around the trunk, in the places where the blackberry branches removed from the support will be laid, planks are laid out. This will ensure that the branches do not come into contact with the ground.
2. Blackberry branches need to be collected into bunches and tied. If the bush is large, several sheaves are formed on it. Twine is used for tying.
3. Bending down shoots is a very responsible task that requires care and attention. To prevent the shoots from breaking at the base as a result of the application of force, they are bent over the knee. Bunches of shoots are laid in the opposite direction from the center of the bush. If an upright blackberry cannot be bent down, it is covered with boxes, slate, etc.
4. You can fix bent bunches in different ways: tie them together (if there are several bushes) or fasten them to a support. The optimal height of bent shoots should not exceed 50 cm.
5. The laid branches are covered with a thick layer of mulch, after which the agrofibre is stretched, the blackberries are covered on top and secured around the perimeter with weights: earth, stones, bricks or even plastic bottles with water.
6. Insulation is laid on top of the covering material. You can do without it by wrapping the blackberries in a double layer of agrofibre.
7. The last layer is applied to the film and secured around the perimeter. Vent holes must be open.