ᐉ Ambrosia peas: variety description, photo, planting and care, collection and storage

The pea plant itself feels great in our climate; its early ripening allows for several harvests per season. In addition to its nutritional value, peas on the site enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is why many gardeners grow them as green manure. Ambrosia peas are well suited for such purposes.

Ambrosia peas

Russian gardeners traditionally have peas as one of their favorite crops.
Green peas are tasty and nutritious and can be used to prepare many simple and delicious dishes. The vegetable protein contained in peas is comparable in quality to meat protein, and can serve as an equivalent replacement for meat products on the menu. The pea plant itself feels great in our climate; its early ripening allows for several harvests per season. In addition to its nutritional value, peas on the site enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is why many gardeners grow them as green manure. Ambrosia peas are well suited for such purposes.

Do I need to soak peas before planting?

When it comes to such a procedure as planting peas, then you can do without germination and soaking of seeds. This is especially important for brain peas. The fact is that during germination, the seed shell, which protects it from frost, is damaged. The peas themselves sense the weather and only when it gets warmer do they begin to germinate. Accordingly, if you place germinated seeds in cold soil, you will not be able to achieve any harvest. It’s not even a fact that shoots will appear. The seeds will simply rot and the roots will die.

It makes sense to sow soaked peas only when the planting time has already passed, but you want to get a harvest as quickly as possible. The soaking time for the material is approximately 12 hours. During this period, you need to change the water several times. The peas will absorb some water and swell. This way the shoots will appear faster.

Ambrosia peas: variety description

Ambrosia peas are an early-ripening variety of sugar-type vegetable peas.

For your information! The “sugar” category includes varieties of peas that do not have partitions in the pod. Tender, unripe pods (shoulders) of sugar snap peas can be eaten whole, together with the peel, fresh or stewed. The peas themselves are very tender and contain more sugar compared to shelled varieties, which are planted for further canning and making porridges.

From the moment the seedlings emerge until the peas ripen in the pods, an average of 50 days pass. Peas of this variety are usually planted in 2-3 stages from April to July. This will allow harvesting from mid-summer to late autumn.

Ambrosia pea seeds

The Ambrosia pea forms a powerful stem up to 70 cm high. In this regard, when planting it, it is necessary to build trellises along the rows in advance, otherwise the plants will fall to the ground and the pods will rot. The stem is covered with rounded bluish-green leaves and strong tendrils that cling to the supports.

Pea flowers resemble white moths that bloom on the plant a month after germination. During flowering, pods of 2 pieces are formed in the axils of the leaves, each of which ripens up to 8 peas weighing up to 2 g. The taste of Ambrosia peas is sweet and starchy.

The yield of Ambrosia sweet peas with a standard planting pattern (15x30 cm) is about 1 kg of pods per 1 sq. m.

Important! The Ambrosia variety is often affected by fusarium, so gardeners should carry out preventive treatments of pea plantings against diseases.

Pea care

Caring for peas will not cause you much trouble, since it just involves covering the seedlings, weeding, watering and, of course, timely harvesting. As soon as the first pea shoots appear, they need to be protected from birds; for this I cover the seedlings with an ordinary fishing net Having repeatedly planted peas, I noticed that the plant simply does not tolerate heat, so in dry weather it must be watered very generously - 9-10 liters of water per 1 square meter. m. It is advisable to combine watering with fertilizing, for which we dilute 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. Immediately after watering, the soil around the peas should be mulched. In general, the soil around pea plants, especially in the initial period of their growth, needs to be loosened, and the plants themselves need to be hilled up. Peas also need the construction of supports - immediately after planting the seeds, I drive pegs directly next to the plant, at a distance of a meter from each other. I attach a special metal mesh with large cells to the pegs - approximately 10x10 cm; in the future it will prevent the peas from breaking and falling. Peas bloom 28-60 days after sowing. About a month after mass flowering, I begin harvesting, which, by the way, perfectly stimulates the growth of peas. Since peas belong to multi-harvest crops, their fruiting period is quite extended and lasts about 33-42 days. I try to collect pea blades quite often - literally every other day or two. I’ll tell you frankly - during last year’s season, following the correct agricultural techniques for growing the plant, I harvested about 4 kg of peas per 1 sq. m, which made me very happy. If your goal is to obtain not green, but mature bean grains, the peas should be left to ripen on the bush until the lower pods of the plant are completely ripe. After this, we cut the plant at the root, tie it into small bunches and hang it for final ripening for one and a half to two weeks in a ventilated room. Remember, pea seeds remain viable for 2 years. After the pea crop is harvested, I cut off the tops and put them in a compost heap, and I simply chop the roots and bury them directly in the ground - the fertilizer is excellent. By the way, such fertilizer can not only perfectly replace manure, but also significantly increases the fertility of the soil, while simultaneously improving its structure. Peas are an incredibly useful crop in crop rotation, but despite the fact that they perfectly enrich and improve the soil, planting them in one place no sooner than 5 years later. Otherwise, there will be a risk of exposing the plant to various diseases.

Vegetable peas Ambrosia: planting and care

For a pea bed, choose a well-lit area with loose and nutritious soil that has neutral or slightly acidic soil. Loams and sandy loams enriched with humus are suitable. For 1 sq. m of the future bed during the autumn digging the following is added:

5 kg of rotted manure or compost;
20 g potassium salt;
35 g superphosphate.

Important! Fresh organic matter is not poured under the crop. It promotes “fatification” of the plant, that is, the development of greenery to the detriment of fruit formation.

The soil must be dug up or plowed to a depth of 25 cm, selecting the roots of perennial weeds. In spring, cultivation is carried out to a depth of 7 cm.

In a crop rotation system, it is better to plant peas after potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes and eggplants, cucumbers and zucchini. The time for sowing peas is determined by the climatic conditions of the growing region.

Ambrosia peas in the garden

This is a cold-resistant crop that can tolerate frosts down to -4°C. In the middle zone, you can start sowing peas at the end of April in the form of dry seeds or pre-soaked and sprouted seeds.

Outdoor care

The agricultural technology for growing Ambrosia sugar peas does not involve complex actions. Therefore, to get a good harvest, it is enough to adhere to standard care rules.

Watering

Timely watering is extremely important for Ambrosia peas, as they belong to the category of moisture-loving crops. It is necessary to moisten the bed with plantings every week by wetting the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm. And during the period of fruit formation, it is recommended to water every 2-3 days. For irrigation, you should use settled water at a temperature of +15-20 °C.

After each watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil between the rows. This will prevent the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil and maintain air access to the roots of the plant.

Top dressing

If nutritional components were added at the site preparation stage, then this crop does not particularly need fertilizing. Additionally, you can use only complex mineral fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus at the stage of fruit formation and ripening. This will improve their taste and speed up collection.

Important! When growing Ambrosia peas, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers, as they enhance the growth of green mass to the detriment of fruit formation.

Topping

To increase bushiness, it is recommended to pinch the main shoot of Ambrosia peas at a height of 20-25 cm. This stimulates the growth of lateral branches. As soon as they grow 20-25 cm, they should also be pinched. This procedure will increase the yield of the plant, but will significantly slow down the harvest. Therefore, pinching is recommended if there is limited space on the site for planting this crop.

Garter

To successfully grow Ambrosia peas, it is necessary to tie the plants to a support. You can use a trellis for this. You should start gartering when the length reaches 25-30 cm. If this is not done on time, the shoots of Ambrosia peas will begin to lie down. As a result, they will not have enough light, and dampness will form at the base of the bushes, which will cause rotting of the fruits.

The garter also promotes uniform ripening of the crop and improves the taste of the beans, since in this case they are well lit by the sun and accumulate sugars.

Harvesting can be done in 50-55 days

Disease prevention and pest control

The most common pest of peas is the pea codling moth. Its larvae, burrowing into the pod, eat the peas from the inside. To repel the pest, plants are sprayed with infusions of wormwood, tobacco, and garlic. For 10 liters of water you need 0.5 kg of wormwood stems, 50 g of tobacco or a glass of garlic cloves. The raw materials are poured with boiling water, left for about a day, and the plantings are sprinkled with water. The pungent smell of the drug will repel pests from the beds.

Fungal diseases cause great damage to pea plantings. As preventive measures, spraying with Fitoverm, Fitosporin, Bordeaux mixture is used in rainy summers, diluting according to the instructions. Treatment is carried out only before flowering!

In addition to spraying, monitor the density of plantings, avoiding thickening. Peas are returned to their original place only after 4 years.

Harvesting peas and storing them

Pea harvesting begins when the beans are suitable for shelling. Harvesting ahead of schedule, even by one day, leads to a decrease in yield by 10-15%, and delaying fruit harvesting leads to a decrease in the quality of beans. It is recommended to remove sugar pea varieties every 2-3 days. It is better to harvest shelling peas in the technical ripeness phase, 12-14 days after flowering, when the beans are still milky and have not lost their bright green color. It is better to pick fruits in the morning.

To preserve green peas for a long time, resort to freezing or canning. Many housewives dry green peas; to do this, boil the grains in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, drain in a colander and rinse in ice water. Allow the water to drain and place in a dryer or oven preheated to +45 °C. Leave for 10 minutes, remove, cool for 1.5 hours. Then load it into the dryer and leave it to dry at a temperature of +60 °C. The readiness of peas can be easily determined by their dark green color and wrinkled surface.

It is important to remember that peas must be processed immediately after harvesting (canned, frozen, etc.), otherwise after 2-4 hours the grains will lose a significant part of their sugar, amino acids and vitamins. To preserve their beneficial properties before processing, shelled beans are placed in water at a temperature of +10 °C, so the peas can sit for up to 6 hours without losing their beneficial properties.

Ripened ripe peas for storage do not need to be dried in an oven or a special electric dryer; it is enough to spread the shelled beans on a newspaper, cotton cloth, or a clean tray in a warm, ventilated room with a relative humidity of no more than 65%. The peas are left in this form for 2-3 days.

To store all types of peas, use only glass containers.
The jar of beans is tightly closed and put in a dark place. It is not advisable to use plastic or paper bags for these purposes, since there is a high probability of insects and worms appearing in pea grains. In contact with

Other pea varieties for planting

The varieties of green peas popular among gardeners are not limited to Ambrosia. The well-known seed company Gavrish offers modern varieties of sweet peas:

Alpha (early, yield up to 2.5 kg per 1 sq. m);
Zhegalova 112 (medium ripening, very sweet and tender variety);
Honey pod (early, productive);
Sugar peas 2, the cultivation of which is especially widespread.

The last variety deserves to be described in more detail. This is a medium-late type with the beginning of fruiting at 55-60 days from emergence, a sugar variety of peas with tender and juicy blades, which are eaten raw or used in the preparation of vegetable stews.

Advantages and disadvantages

This variety has many advantages, which makes it stand out from the rest. But Ambrosia peas also have disadvantages. Therefore, before giving it preference, you should study the strengths and weaknesses of the variety.

Ambrosia productivity per 1 sq. m. is 1.3 kg

Main advantages:

high productivity;
excellent taste;
versatility of use;
early ripeness;
friendly return of fruits;
low maintenance requirements;
resistance to temperature changes.

Flaws:

needs support;
average resistance to diseases and pests.

Important! Ambrosia sugar pea beans, unlike shelled varieties of the crop, can be consumed whole, fresh or stewed.

Sugar peas: planting on the balcony and care

This variety of peas can be grown on a balcony or loggia under artificial lighting. For full development, you need to prepare boxes with a depth of at least 25-30 cm. Fill them with ready-made universal soil for vegetables or a humus-sand mixture.

Peas are sown at a depth and according to the pattern adopted for planting in open ground. As soon as tendrils begin to form on the stems, a nylon net is attached near the pea stems or ropes are pulled so that the plant weaves along the support.

Peas can also be grown indoors

If planting is carried out in early spring or autumn, the plants are illuminated with fluorescent lamps, providing daylight for at least 10 hours.

Peas planted in a container require watering more often than in open ground.

At the beginning of growth before flowering, it is useful to feed the crops with a weak solution of urea (1 g per 1 liter of water). During the time of flowering and filling of pods, peas are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g per 1 l) every 2 weeks. Instead, you can use wood ash, scattering it over the surface of the soil (1 tablespoon per 1 plant).

On the balcony, each pea plant bears fruit for about a month. You should not delay collecting the blades, as ripe pods inhibit the formation of new ones. You need to inspect the garden for collecting peas every 3 days.

In container growing conditions, you can remove half a kilo of tender sugar pods from each pea bush. After the peas have finished fruiting, you can plant homemade flowers or vegetable seedlings in the ground with nodule bacteria that enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Caring for peas in summer

It is not difficult to care for shoots during the growing season. 14 days after germination of the seedlings, they need to be loosened again and slightly hilled. You also need to install supports for gartering growing plants in advance, otherwise pea shoots that have reached a large size will fall to the ground - especially from rain and strong winds. Plants that fall without care will grow slower and bloom later. This means that the harvest will appear late, and it will be problematic to collect it.

The garter is done quite simply: you need to install pegs near the plants and tie up the green shoots as they grow. To imagine the process in more detail, you can find photos on the Internet. Another important detail for growing peas in open soil is watering, frequent and abundant: per 1 sq. m. should go about a bucket of water. By the way, a drip irrigation system is ideal for peas. This representative of legumes should be watered at the root due to its natural fragility.

Peas in open ground do not require complex care

The pods can begin to be collected 14 days after the end of the flowering period. To increase the yield, it is better to harvest peas every day during ripening. Be sure to pick the pods from the bushes carefully and with great care. Dried pods must be removed in time to care for the crop.

Growing Ambrosia Peas

The main features of the plant are indicated on the seed package and may differ slightly. In practice, Ambrosia peas are ready for harvest 55 days after germination. The stem reaches a length of up to 70 cm; as a rule, the plant is grown without supports, but experienced gardeners advise placing them. The characteristics of the fruit are amazing: each pod contains 7-8 peas. Each pea is distinguished by its meatiness, rich taste, and thick walls.

Before planting seeds, it is necessary to study the characteristics of the plant, its soil needs, to create the most favorable conditions. Growing Ambrosia peas will require responsibility from the gardener and a little time for watering and feeding the plant. But you can enjoy the results of your labors throughout the year.

Sowing should be done 2-3 centimeters into fertile soil, repeatedly, from the third ten days of April to the end of June. Between sowings it is necessary to maintain an interval of a week to 10 days. When sowing in rows, the distance between them should be 20-30 cm. Per 1 square. m. up to 100 seeds are sown. Experienced gardeners do not recommend sowing peas in the same area the following year.

To obtain a full harvest and protect it in the early stages, it is recommended to cover the early shoots with a fishing net. Such protection will protect escapes from birds.

When the first shoots appear, the gardener needs to feed the plant with complex mineral fertilizer and water it.

Landing

Ambrosia peas are recommended to be planted in early May. You should focus on the climatic characteristics of a particular region, since it is recommended to plant the crop when 1-1.5 months have passed since the last frost. Short-term frosts are not dangerous for peas, and in cool times they grow well.

It is allowed to sow Ambrosia peas at different times. The recommended interval is 10 days. With this planting scheme, the harvest period will last as long as possible.

Ambrosia peas should be planted according to the following algorithm:

Pour water at room temperature over the seeds . It should completely cover the planting material and should be changed every 2 hours. Soaking for 12-15 hours is enough. Instead, you can keep the seeds in hot water (no more than 50-55 degrees) for 5 minutes, adding microfertilizer.
Soak the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes . This measure serves to prevent disease.
Prepare the area . The bed must be leveled and loosened. You need to make grooves or holes, leaving 20-30 cm between rows.
Water the furrows (holes) and sow the seeds . There should be 6-10 cm between neighboring plants. Bury the seeds by 3-4 cm. If the soil is very light, then you can increase the depth by 1-2 cm.
Sprinkle the crops with soil , lightly patting it down.

It is recommended to provide shelter before germination to prevent birds from stealing the seeds. You can use film, dry branches, mesh.

Ambrosia pea seeds

Green-yellow Ambrosia pea seeds are suitable for planting in any Russian region. You can buy seeds at any garden store, but it’s better to hurry, as this variety is gaining more and more popularity every year. The seeds are resistant to cold, so you can start sowing when the soil warms up from 4 to 6 degrees Celsius. It is better to buy seeds a month before the start of the season through an online store, which will deliver the seeds to the buyer.

Features of cultivation

The agricultural technology of peas Early 301 has practically no nuances compared to the cultivation of other varieties of similar purposes. Planting it is as easy as shelling pears, and care requires only basic operations: these peas don’t even need supports.

Sowing peas

Peas are a cold-resistant plant, so they can be sown as soon as the soil thaws a little after winter. In this regard, the bed must be dug up in the fall. It grows best in the sun; in partial shade, the yield is slightly reduced. If peas are sown for children, it is better to place small beds along the paths.

And in general, we must take into account that literally in 2–2.5 months the bed will be empty: Early 301 will give up its harvest almost instantly. This means we need to think about how we can occupy the vacant space. The choice here is wide: peas are an excellent predecessor for most vegetable crops.

Peas love soils of average composition: loamy and sandy loam. In the fall, the usual doses of fertilizers (humus, ash) are applied, only peas need nitrogen in minimal quantities: they themselves extract it from the depths, which improves the structure and fertility of the soil. The best soils in terms of acidity are close to neutral; in case of excessive acidity, they are preliminarily limed. The best predecessors for peas are cucumbers, pumpkin, potatoes, and all varieties of cabbage. Peas should not be grown in one place for several years in a row; they should not be planted after any type of beans.

This pea variety is sown with dry seeds in early spring. In the middle zone this is done in the second half of April, and sometimes earlier, depending on the weather.

Sometimes sowing is carried out even in October, in the hope that the seeds will overwinter and sprout as soon as the ground thaws. But this option is risky: thaws often occur in winter, and swollen seeds in cold soil often die.

Early sowing of peas is generally recommended only with dry seeds: moisture in April is enough for the seeds to swell and sprout, and soaked seeds often rot if cold weather returns. Therefore, seed preparation consists only of calibrating them and removing obviously unsuitable specimens.

Planting care

After the emergence of shoots, caring for peas is, in fact, limited only to timely watering. Peas especially need moisture during dry periods, during flowering and pod growth. You can also water by sprinkling, but without strong pressure, which damages the delicate leaves. Water temperature does not matter, consumption is 1-2 buckets per square meter.

When watering, the soil should be soaked well, but so that the puddle disappears in a few minutes

In a good bed, fertilized in advance, no fertilizing is needed, especially with nitrogen fertilizers. It is enough to water the bed once with an infusion of ash during flowering. You don’t have to make an infusion, but simply scatter the ash in a thin layer along the bushes and water well. If you still have the opportunity to avoid damaging the roots, you can first lightly hoe the fertilizer into the soil.

In the first half of summer, early 301 is practically not affected by fungal diseases, so there is no need to spray it with anything. And how can you spray it, and soon collect it and eat it? But various pests visit it: thrips, moth, weevil, etc. However, they attack peas already in the later stages: when the pods are technically ripe, no one touches them. Therefore, if you harvest on time, you don’t have to think about various small competitors.

And you need to harvest the harvest on time: it ripens very quickly, literally in a couple of days changing from delicious grains to actually yellow and coarse seeds. It is generally better to monitor the condition of the pods on a daily basis, so this variety should not be planted by summer residents who visit the garden only on weekends. If there are too many peas collected at once, and canning was not part of the plan, you can simply freeze them and then add them to soups or side dishes.

Video: early peas in the garden

Ambrosia pea

Ambrosia peas are one of the most successful varieties of sugar peas developed in recent years. The variety was selected in 2005 and was obtained as a result of the joint work of Research and Production and Alista LLC.

In 2009, it was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation for cultivation in all regions of the country. Over the course of ten years, he managed to gain recognition among vegetable growers and consumers.

What can and cannot be planted with peas in the same bed?

A bed with peas
Planting peas is possible not only in a separate bed, but also together with other crops. However, the crop yield depends on what exactly is chosen.

In one garden bed, peas get along quite well with:

Strawberries . Its roots are located in the top layer of soil. Moreover, the root system is so small that it will not harm nearby peas, whose roots penetrate much deeper. If you plant both crops in one bed, you will get an excellent harvest.
Zucchini, squash, pumpkin and cucumbers. All these crops are active consumers of nitrogen. And a properly chosen “neighbor” can provide them. Which is exactly what peas are. At the same time, insects flock well to the smell of legume flowers, and at the same time pollinate pumpkin flowers.
Cabbage . Such a neighborhood would also be good for her. The peas will loosen the soil with their roots and prevent the neighbor from rotting. Gardeners recommend planting Chinese cabbage near peas. Its taste will become more pleasant and sweet.
Potato . Many experienced gardeners know that their neighborhood is simply ideal, because this improves the potato harvest. In addition, the crop repels potato pests, including the Colorado potato beetle. This allows you to save time on processing, as well as purchasing drugs.
Carrot . Essential oils in carrot tops can repel pests. If you also plant peas nearby, they will help each other grow, which will allow you to get a good harvest.
Beet . She also gets along well with peas. The latter does not take nutrition from the root crop, but receives support. In this case, there is no need to tie up the stems of the plant.
Radish, daikon . Also a good option. Gardeners note that with such a neighborhood, not only the yield improves, but also the taste of root crops.
Corn . Thanks to the peas, it is saturated with nitrogen, and also receives protection for the roots from overheating. As for corn, it not only receives a lot of useful benefits from peas, but also protects it itself, becoming a support for the stems.
Mustard . It also actively absorbs nitrogen, which is important for growth. At the same time, the peas themselves receive nutrients that are important for good yield.
Spices . Mint, sage, rosemary and other similar herbs contain essential oils. They repel pests.

Despite the fact that plants really can become a support for peas. It’s better not to refuse to tie it up.

At the same time, not the best neighbors for peas are: garlic, onions, tomatoes, fennel, sunflower, basil and wormwood. It is also not recommended to plant peas too close to alfalfa and clover, or in the shade of bushes and trees.

Ambrosia pea variety description

Ambrosia peas are a medium-sized variety, with a main stem height of about 60-70 cm. The plant is quite powerful and can be grown without supports. The leaves are medium-sized, light green with white veins. The flowers are small and white. Sometimes with a lilac tint.

Salad-colored blades without hard fibers and a parchment layer. The length of the blade is 8-10 cm. Up to 10 peas with a diameter of 8-10 mm are tied in each of them. There doesn't seem to be anything special. Nevertheless, Ambrosia peas have been occupying a leading position in the seed market for several years.

Ambrosia peas are a high-yielding variety. From one square meter you can collect about a kilogram of fruit.
Early ripening, no later than two months after emergence, allows you to sow Ambrosia peas from the end of April to the end of May at intervals of a week and a half.
Ambrosia peas have excellent taste. The peas are fleshy, juicy with dense walls. During heat treatment, peas do not crack or boil. Very sweet.
Ambrosia peas are suitable for fresh consumption, freezing and canning.
The pea variety "Ambrosia" is a salad pea variety. Juicy young pea blades are often used to make salads.
Ambrosia peas have good seed germination and require pre-germination.
Ambrosia peas do not require much effort when growing. Even a beginner in gardening can get a good harvest.
It has high immunity to diseases of both fungal and bacterial origin. A short growing season allows you to protect the crop from pests.

Seeds LLC "First Seeds" Vegetable peas Dinga - review

Good peas

Received with the condition of writing a review (free or at a discount)

Another seasonal gardening review - on

Vegetable peas Dinga from 1Semena LLC.

I planted it last year, late, and a little, trying to cover the bald spots that formed in the orderly rows of dolichos.

What is stated by the manufacturer:

It seemed rather early to me - considering that I planted it in the middle of summer, we had time to harvest it. One wave. I’m not sure about the second one – was there one?

Mine were 50 centimeters. Perhaps because they always grow between some giants and always in areas that are far from the best. But in principle, he seemed short and stocky to me, so to speak.

Well, that’s it, mine counted 11 and 12 even peas. Most are 8-10.

Well, in general, I love any peas) The taste of childhood, carefree summer, heat and real danger - tea is not easy - stealing peas from the collective farm fields :-) This one is tastier than the collective farm one, but just so that - AH! - and melts in your mouth like some overseas delicacy - there is no such thing, of course.

Well, my imagination has never brought me to the point of canning homemade peas. Fresh and boiled – delicious.

I can only check and approve the first passage - about excellent taste. Because I didn’t measure the protein and vitamin content, I don’t suspect fusarium.

Personally, I would like to note such a pleasant feature for me as friendly maturation. Actually, this was the first time that we couldn’t manage to eat garden peas fresh. And, already beginning to overripe, they collected two bags; I peeled so much that the garnish turned out to be boiled peas poached in melted butter.

Regarding germination - it seemed 100% to me

There are 100 seeds in a pack.

You can order here.

A pack costs 18 rubles.

I used about a quarter of the pack. That is, I will still be planting it for another three years.

And I recommend you Dinga vegetable peas from First Seeds LLC.

Ambrosia sugar pea variety description

Each gardener has his own approach to preparing seeds. From soaking for several hours to germinating the seeds. Ambrosia peas have good germination, so there is little point in germinating the seeds.

The optimal solution is to soak them in a solution of a growth stimulator for a day.

The swollen seeds are planted in grooves previously spilled with water to a depth of 1-2 cm and lightly pressed down. The distance between the peas is 10-12 cm. The furrows are covered with soil on top and watered again.

In the future, peas need timely watering, loosening the soil, weeding and harvesting. Watering is provided abundantly, especially in dry years. Watering frequency is once or twice a week.

It is worth noting that birds love to feast on sweet young pea shoots. On the advice of fishermen, many vegetable growers cover their plantings with old fishing nets.

During the period of abundant flowering, you can treat Ambrosia peas with any means that increases the formation of ovaries. Or carry out root feeding with mineral fertilizers.

Varieties

Since purple peas were developed only recently, there are few varieties available for sale in stores. Each of them differs from each other in some features.

Types gaining popularity:

Purple sugar.
Purple King.
Everything is purple.
Leafless creeper.
Afilla.

In order to understand the difference between them, the summer resident studies their descriptions and, based on this data, makes the final choice.

Purple sugar

Plant height 1.50 m, peas are rich in proteins and minerals. It blooms from May to July, the flowers are large, purple, and have a very strong aroma. Purple sugar is a medium-ripe variety; peas ripen in 60-70 days. The pod is green-violet, 8 cm long. The peas are purple, green at the stage of wax ripeness.

The plant is cold-resistant, used for any purpose, for growing for food and decorating the site. Planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Used to prepare salads, soups, purees and many other dishes. The yield of the variety is comparatively lower than that of green species.

Purple King

A variety of crop that has purple pod leaves and green peas. The plant is highly branched, when it blooms, it is covered with buds of a soft pink color. Often used in site decoration.

Peas tolerate temperature changes well. Young shoots can withstand light frosts. The yield of this variety is 1.5 kg per 1 m2. Caring for it is usual, watering, loosening fertilizing. Capable of growing without support. Its fruits are consumed in any form, but most of the beneficial substances are contained in fresh beans. Ripens a month after flowering ends.

Everything is purple

Refers to mid-season varieties of crops. Ready for use on day 70. The pod is 10 cm long and contains 9 peas. The leaves are purple, the peas are green. They are consumed in all types and methods of preparation, including as green beans.

Plant height is 2 m, reviews are mostly positive. Summer residents praise the variety for its high yield, external beauty and excellent taste. Caring for the plant is no different; all standard agrotechnical practices are performed.

Leafless Sugar Slider

This is an early type of culture. The plant has no leaves at all; it can grow without support. Since the modified tendril leaves cling to each other. The beans are 10 cm long and contain 8-9 peas. Tasty and nutritious, they are enjoyed by all family members.

Caring for bushes involves timely watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

Afilla

Included in the category of late varieties. The height of the plant is only 50-55 cm. The yield of the variety depends on the gardener; if you remove the beans from the bush in a timely manner, it forms new ones, thus extending the fruiting period.

The variety is leafless, the fruit has an excellent taste, and is grown in the same way as other crop varieties. There is no need to provide a support; the plant can support itself.

The best varieties of peas with photos and descriptions

Alpha pea variety (sugar)

A popular, well-known sugar snap pea variety. The main advantages of Alpha peas are that they are very “mustachioed,” and the stems are dense, thanks to which the peas do not lie down until the fall, tightly intertwined with mustaches into pea thickets, and you can do without support. This is an early variety (45-50 days), as a rule, not tall (half a meter or a little more), but very productive: in each bosom there are two pods 7-9 cm long, each with 7-10 peas. The peas are not very large, but they are sweet, sweet, juicy, and there are really a lot of them. Since the variety is sugar, the blades can be used (including frozen) for the winter, and the peas are consumed fresh, canned and frozen. At the stage of milk maturity, the peas become dark green, the pods become saber-shaped or slightly curved, with a pointed tip. The Alpha pea variety is also good because it is resistant to most diseases (fusarium, ascochyta blight), frost, and grows quietly with minimal agricultural technology.

Alpha pea variety

Pea variety Telefon (shelling brain)

One of the best late-ripening pea varieties is Telefon. The growing season is from 100 to 110 days, growth is from one and a half to three meters, so the Telephone pea definitely needs strong support. As an option, it can be planted near a raspberry tree, and then the mustache of the giant pea will entwine the raspberry stems. Telefon is also good for its extended ripening period: the top is still blooming, the middle is filling, and at the bottom the ripe pods are already waiting to be harvested. This is a brain pea variety, so its grains are very sweet, with 7-10 very large grains in a pod. The length of the bean itself is up to 11 cm.

Pea variety Telephone

Ambrosia pea variety (sugar)

A good variety for lovers of snap peas. Ambrosia forms very fleshy, thick-walled, juicy blades, sweet, without a hard parchment layer. The variety is early ripening (45-60 days), not too tall (55-70 cm). Ambrosia has a hollow stem, so it is advisable to install a support, but, as with all short varieties of peas, it can be grown without support - the tenacious tendrils will create a “hedge”. At a later date, you can also collect green pea beans: 6-8 pieces are formed in each pod, they are light green and sweet in taste. The pod length is 8-10 cm. Ambrosia peas are moderately resistant to diseases.

Ambrosia pea variety

Oscar pea variety (sugar)

Oscar peas are sugar peas, but they also form quite large, sweet peas. Therefore, in the early stages of ripening, you can enjoy juicy asparagus blades, and leave part of the harvest until the green peas ripen. This is an early variety with a growing season of 50-55 days, a height of 70-80 cm. The pods of Oscar peas are dark green, with a pointed end, about 9 cm long, each produces 10-12 tasty, large, uniform peas with a high sugar content . The Oscar pea variety has stable yields and is resistant to viruses.

Pea variety Dinga (shelling)

A popular variety of shelling peas of German selection. It belongs to the mid-season (vegetation period -55-70 days), height - up to 90 cm. Dinga peas form light green pods with a pointed top, 9-11 cm long, with sweet, crispy dark green peas. Each pod contains 9-10 peas. Peas can be used both fresh and for preservation. The variety is high-yielding, unpretentious to soils resistant to fusarium, but highly susceptible to yellow mosaic virus and powdery mildew.

Dinga pea variety

Pea variety Prelado (shelling)

These are brain shelling peas of Dutch selection, and gardeners often sow them for green peas. There are several reasons for this. The first is the earliest of the varieties of the Dutch line, an extremely early variety with a growing season of only 40-60 days. The second is high heat resistance and unpretentiousness to growing conditions in general. It is highly adaptable to different growing conditions. The Prelado pea variety grows up to 70 cm in height, there are 7-9 peas in a pod, they are medium in size, but tasty, sweet, because they contain a lot of sugars. Prelado peas are resistant to fusarium blight. Excellent for early spring sowing.

How to grow peas at home on a windowsill: optimal conditions

Peas do not have any special requirements for growing conditions. But it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the “wishes” of the culture in advance in order to create an optimal or close to it microclimate. Only in this case is it possible to obtain a bountiful harvest.

Peas are one of the most cold-resistant garden crops. This quality is maintained when grown at home. The plant feels great at a temperature of 16–18ºС, so in spring and summer the pots can be safely taken out onto the balcony, even an unglazed one. But peas tolerate heat relatively poorly. At 25ºС and above, the process of plant development is greatly inhibited, as if it goes into “hibernation”. This negatively affects future yields. Therefore, at home, it is not advisable to plant grains in June or July. As a rule, these are the hottest months. The critical minimum for the crop is approximately -5ºС.

At home, peas must receive enough light

Peas are classified as long-day plants. For normal development, plants require at least 12 hours of light per day. In summer, pots are placed on the windowsill of a window facing south, southeast, southwest. If there is not enough sun (and in most of Russia this is the case, especially in winter, late autumn and early spring), you will have to use artificial light sources. Both special phytolamps and regular ones (fluorescent, LED) are suitable. They are placed about half a meter above the container with peas, on top, at a distance of about half a meter, at a slight angle.

Phytolamps help ensure daylight hours of the required duration

Peas have a very positive attitude towards fresh air and are not afraid of drafts. Therefore, the room must be ventilated regularly. Spraying is also useful for him, especially in the heat. You can increase the air humidity in the room in other ways - place more other plants in the room, place basins with cool water, put wet pebbles or expanded clay in the tray of the pot, buy a special device.

The root system of peas is developed, characterized by the presence of a powerful taproot. When grown in open ground, it goes into the soil about a meter. At home, this is, of course, impossible, but you will still have to choose a deep, spacious container, reminiscent of a bucket, for the culture. There is too little soil in flat pots, which can cause overheating of the roots and a sharp decrease in yield. The preferred material is natural ceramics. It ensures normal aeration and prevents moisture from stagnating in the soil.

The pot for growing peas should be deep and voluminous

Peas prefer a substrate that is nutritious, but at the same time quite light. Regardless of whether you buy soil or mix it yourself, the composition must contain a leavening agent - coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite, crushed dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, straw.

Crushed dry sphagnum moss gives the soil the required looseness

Another necessary component is humus or rotted compost. It will provide the mixture with the necessary nutritional value. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure. It saturates the soil with nitrogen; peas, like all legumes, have a similar property. And an excess of this macroelement negatively affects the plant’s immunity and promotes the active formation of green mass to the detriment of flowering and fruiting.

Humus helps increase soil fertility

To the humus and baking powder, taken in approximately equal volumes, add the same amount of ordinary soil. You can use soil from the garden bed (preferably from the one on which any Solanaceous or Pumpkin plants grew before), a purchased universal substrate for seedlings or indoor plants, or forest soil. The latter is best taken from under any deciduous trees except birch.

Any soil must be sterilized before use. The easiest way is to put it on an unheated balcony for several days in winter or keep it in the freezer. Other methods are roasting in the oven or steaming.
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Pea varieties whose stem length does not exceed a meter do not need support. Just to be on the safe side, you can let them curl around a bamboo support. They are sold in any store that sells indoor plants.

You can easily build a support for low-growing pea varieties yourself or simply buy one

If you chose a more “oversized” variety, you will have to build something resembling a trellis. The simplest option is several vertical supports and strong threads, fishing line or thin wire stretched horizontally between them. The optimal cell size of the resulting grid is 10*10 cm. Being correctly placed, it performs not only a utilitarian function, but also a decorative one. This “green screen” looks very unusual and original. Just don’t put the net covered with peas right next to the wall. Under such conditions, normal air exchange is impossible.

Preparation of planting material

Preparing to grow peas at home begins with choosing quality seeds. They are the key to a bountiful harvest in the future. You can buy them or assemble them yourself. They retain germination for two years.

The first stage of pre-planting preparation of pea seeds - visual inspection

First of all, the peas are sorted and carefully examined, rejecting those that have obvious defects - violations of the integrity of the skin, other mechanical damage, spots reminiscent of traces of mold and rot, non-standard sizes and shapes, and so on.

The remaining seeds are immersed in soft water with the addition of table salt (20 g per liter) for 10–15 minutes. If there is no melt or rain water, regular tap water will do. But you will have to defend it for at least a day, waiting for a sediment resembling grayish-white flakes to form. You can also add a few drops of apple cider vinegar or citric acid crystals. Those peas that float to the surface can be thrown away immediately. Unusual lightness means the absence of an embryo. Such seeds will not sprout, this is obvious.

Soaking pea seeds in a saline solution allows you to discard those that clearly will not sprout

Peas that pass the test for potential germination are prepared for germination. The grains extracted from the saline solution are washed in running water and the excess is allowed to drain, spreading them on linen napkins or cotton towels. Then they are soaked in a bright crimson potassium permanganate solution to prevent the development of fungal diseases. Water with the addition of boric acid (0.1 g per 0.5 l) is also suitable. The procedure in the first case lasts 6–8 hours, in the second — 15–20 minutes.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most affordable disinfectants

After this, the peas are washed again and kept in plain water heated to a temperature of 40–45ºC for 4–6 hours. During this time, it is advisable to change it at least once or twice, because it cools down. After the designated period, they are removed from the water and dried.

The final stage of pre-planting preparation is germination. A piece of cotton cloth or cotton wool is moistened with water and lightly squeezed so that it does not drip. To speed up the process, you can add a biostimulant to the water. Both store-bought drugs (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid) are suitable. The seeds are laid out on this cloth and covered with the same piece on top. It is not advisable to use gauze. The emerging seedlings get tangled between the threads, and it is almost impossible to remove them from there without breaking them. And paper napkins very quickly disintegrate into mush, because the material will have to be constantly moistened as it dries. Under no circumstances should we forget about this. If the fabric dries out, the seeds will simply disappear.

If you wrap pea seeds in gauze, it will be very difficult to remove sprouted pea seeds without damaging them.

The resulting “bundle” is placed on a plate and kept warm. For example, a heating radiator or a window sill illuminated by the sun most of the day would be suitable. Seeds whose sprout has reached approximately a centimeter in length are ready for planting. They hatch in about 2–3 days, the whole process takes 5–6 days. Such peas sprout 4–5 days earlier than unprepared ones.

Germinated pea seeds demonstrate faster and better germination percentage than unprepared ones

The procedure is carried out in such a way that the seeds can be planted in the ground immediately after it. They don't even need to be dried.

Some gardeners recommend simply pouring warm water over the peas. But in this case, it is easy for those who do not have much experience to spoil the planting material. If bubbles appear on the surface of the water, this means that some of the seeds have died due to prolonged exposure to it. Usually one night is enough, and in the morning the peas can already be planted. They will swell, but will not germinate. Accordingly, the emergence of seedlings will be delayed.

Video: pre-planting preparation of pea seeds

How to plant peas correctly

For sowing vegetable peas, choose the time after rain. It is better to water the dry soil first so that the seeds immediately begin to swell with moisture and sprout. Prepared and disinfected seeds are planted so that it is convenient to collect the pods.

Pea planting scheme

To increase productivity, peas are planted according to a certain pattern. It all depends on the location of the site and planting planning. Peas are sown in a row and linear way:

The row planting scheme involves placing seeds in even furrows with row spacing of 15–20 cm. The distance between seeds is maintained from 5 to 7 cm.
Planting peas using the ribbon method involves forming furrows in 2–3 rows with a distance between rows of 12–15 cm. A distance of 30–40 cm is left between the ribbons. The peas are laid in the ground at a distance of 5 cm from one another.

Peas are sown in rows in separate beds. The linear scheme is used in mixed beds, as well as when sowing crops along fences, buildings and borders.

Pea planting diagram: Pixabay

How to plant peas

After the preparatory work has been carried out and the planting scheme has been selected, sowing work begins.

Here's how to plant peas correctly:

We make shallow furrows up to 5 cm according to the chosen pattern.
Spread the seeds evenly.
Cover the peas with a 2.5–3 cm layer of soil and lightly compact them.
If the weather is dry, water the crops along the furrows.
We mulch the bed with straw and compost to retain moisture in the ground.

The first shoots appear after 10–14 days. Even before germination, supports are placed along the plantings using mesh or twine. Peas send out branchy stems and cling to support with their tendrils immediately after emerging from the ground.

If a structure up to 1 m high is not installed on time, the plant will lie on the ground and weave itself into a continuous carpet. Harvesting on the ground will be difficult and inconvenient.

How to plant peas correctly: Pixabay

Benefits of peas

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To evaluate the benefits of peas, let’s first consider the composition of this product.

Components contained in peas:

vitamins A, C, B1, B2, B4 and B5;
nicotinic acid PP;
iron;
potassium;
selenium;
fluorine;
biotin;
amino acids;
flavonoids, etc.

How peas affect the body:

improves blood composition;
lowers bad cholesterol levels;
speeds up metabolism;
strengthens joints and bones;
has a positive effect on the stomach;
eliminates heartburn;
strengthens the immune system.

Another benefit is that peas contain many amino acids and little fat. Thanks to this, it promotes muscle mass gain.

Since it contains useful minerals, introducing peas into the diet will have a positive effect on the condition of nails, hair and skin.

Growing peas in an apartment

Next, I will tell you how to grow peas on the balcony.

About soil

It is best to buy already prepared soil.

Almost all types of soil are suitable for cultivating peas. Their mechanical structure is not significant; it can be sandy, loamy or clayey soil.
When the substrate is acidic, it must be limed ahead of time. To do this, you need to add 0.3-0.4 kilograms of lime per square meter of container with soil.
Peas are sown in early spring, however, it is best to prepare the ground for them in the fall.

You can take the soil from your dacha.

Dig up the required volume of soil, for example, in your dacha (remove its fertile layer to a depth of 30 cm). Having brought it home, add 4-5 kilograms of manure humus or compost, 30-40 grams of superphosphate and 15- 20 grams of potassium salt. Already in the spring, add wood ash to the soil as a fertilizer.
You can harvest a particularly high yield of pea beans when the land has already been well fed with fertilizers for the previous agricultural crop.

For peas, add only rotted bird or cow manure to the soil. It cannot be used fresh. Such feeding will provoke excessive growth of the green mass of the plant, which will negatively affect the formation of color and beans.

Planting vegetable crops has its own tricks.

The best predecessors of peas: tomatoes, cabbage, early potatoes, all types of pumpkins. He himself, like other legume species, is the best predecessor for almost all agricultural crops.

A few words about whether it is possible to grow peas repeatedly in the same soil. I want to warn you in advance - you can use the soil for growing beans only after at least four years. In other words, if next season you want to grow this crop on your balcony again, you will have to bring in a new soil substrate for it.

Select the sunniest area on the balcony for cultivating peas.

Planting grains

Stages of development of planted peas.

Most often, sugar varieties are chosen for cultivating peas in apartment conditions; their green pods are used for food. Loggias or balconies are allocated for planting.

Peas can be grown either by seedling method or by sowing sprouted grains. The latter method is better suited for growing in an apartment.

Soak the peas of the selected variety in water at room temperature (+22-24˚). Do this in such a way that the liquid completely covers the seed material. Keep the grains in water for about 12–16 hours, changing the liquid every 4 hours.
To improve the formation of sprouts, you can treat the peas with a growth regulator (adding it to the container during the last 2-3 hours of soaking) or dip them in hot water with microfertilizers diluted in it for 5-7 minutes.
Next, when there is little seed material, keep it in damp gauze until it begins to germinate.

Sprouted pea beans.

The grains prepared in this way are planted in moist soil. Sowing work can begin from the beginning of the third ten days of April.

Peas are a cold-resistant crop and can germinate on an open balcony already at +4˚. Its seedlings are not killed by frosts down to -6˚. However, play it safe and, after sowing early, cover the plantings with plastic wrap.

Scheme for planting peas.

As a rule, peas are sown in rows with a step between them of 10–15 cm; the distance between the peas in the row itself should be 5 cm.
The grains are planted at a depth of about 2-3 cm in containers, pots or boxes filled with loosened and moist soil substrate. The size of the pea pot on the balcony should be at least 10 liters, since the crop has a powerful and voluminous root system.
Make grooves in the soil and place the grains in them. Level the ground and compact it a little. Cover the plantings with non-woven material. After 7-10 days, sprouts will appear in the beds.
If the seedlings develop poorly, feed them with a solution of nitrogenous fertilizers.

Gartering peas using a mesh trellis.

When the sprouts reach a height of 10-12 cm, create supports for them. The best way to do this is to hang a plastic mesh with large cells. After this, periodically adjust the stems on the support so that they do not lie down and interfere with each other.

In winter, peas are grown indoors not for collecting grains and pods, but for the sake of tasty, juicy and healthy greens from which salads are made.

Pea beans form sprouts faster, and at the same time they produce a much larger volume of greens than ordinary green onions and various types of lettuce. In terms of the presence of useful and necessary substances, agriculture is in no way inferior to them. So, 100 grams of its shoots contain the daily amount of vitamin C.

To get greens, I recommend that you choose low-growing pea varieties that have fleshy leaves. Plant them over several periods (for example, 3 times in 10 days).

The most juicy and tasty greens are grown at the age of 3-6 leaves. When the stems become coarse, cut them off; you can also eat the shoots that grow back.

How to care for peas

Don't forget to loosen the soil.

Typically, caring for growing peas consists of regularly loosening the soil and watering the plantings. This agricultural crop loves water. With its deficiency, it loses color and ovaries.

Before the color forms, the instructions prescribe watering the plants moderately (once a week), because with excess moisture they become pampered.
When color appears and the pods develop, the soil should not dry out; during this period, water the peas twice a week.
Loosen the soil regularly, especially when a crust has appeared on it after watering.

To reap a bountiful harvest, create strong supports for your pets using wire or plastic mesh. For tall species this is mandatory.

Typically you should not feed peas. For its normal development, the nitrogen absorbed from the air by the nodule bacteria living on the root system is sufficient.

30 days after the color appears, you can begin to pick the crop. Pea beans belong to many harvested agricultural crops. Their fruiting cycle lasts from 35 to 40 days.

Pea blades can be picked after 1-2 days. The lower pods ripen first. During the season you can get a harvest of up to 4 kilograms per square meter of planting.

Meet King Pea

Perhaps everyone has heard this expression at least once - “under Tsar Gorokh”... Perhaps we are talking about a person - a king who ruled more than a century ago, who bore the nickname “Pea”.
But the well-known grain crop, which was held in high esteem in pagan Rus' and ancient China, is worthy, if not a royal title, then at least respect. Meet King Pea

Peas (lat. Pisum) are an annual self-pollinating herbaceous plant of the Legume family. Its homeland is South-West Asia, where it was cultivated back in the Stone Age. The herbaceous stems of peas reach a length of up to 250 cm. The petioles of the leaves end in tendrils, which, clinging to the support, hold the plant vertically.

Peas (like other legumes) are an excellent green manure; they enrich the soil with nitrogen. In the root zone (and on the roots themselves), plants develop beneficial microorganisms that are able to absorb atmospheric nitrogen, accumulating it in the soil.

MEAT GROWS... IN THE GARDEN. Vegetable peas are a valuable and healthy vitamin product

Features of the crop and its agricultural technology. Given the nutritional value and taste of green peas, they are often called “plant meat.” Freshly cooked or canned green peas contain a large amount of vitamins (PP, B1, B2, C, provitamin A), and have a number of amino acids vital for humans (cystine, lysine, arginine, tryptophan, etc.). Vegetable peas are more demanding on growing conditions than grain peas. And the soil for it needs to be loosened deeper, and it is sown later, because the seeds of brain varieties begin to germinate only at a temperature of 4-80C. At the beginning of the growing season, it grows slowly, so it is more overgrown with weeds, affected by diseases and damaged by pests.

For peas in the garden, the best place is a dry, open, sunny place with a low groundwater level. In a newly developed area, the soil begins to be prepared in advance. If it is waterlogged, begin drainage using drainage ditches around the perimeter of the site and various types of drainage using sand, brushwood, drainage pipes laid in the soil at a depth of 25-30 cm and deeper. To improve clay soils, loosening materials and organic fertilizers are added (compost or humus 4-6 kg per 1 m2, regular sand, wood ash, crushed slag). After this, the soil is prepared, as in a well-developed site.

Also, on a personal plot, it is necessary to observe crop rotation. If you grow one crop or crops belonging to the same botanical family in one place for several years, you will notice that every year the harvest becomes smaller and smaller, and the plants grow weakened and are increasingly susceptible to disease and pest damage. This is explained by the accumulation in the soil of pathogenic microbes and pests characteristic of a given crop. After all, each botanical family has its own pathogens that do not affect or infect plants of other families. In addition to dividing according to botanical criteria, there is a division of garden crops according to the degree of nutritional requirements. Thanks to crop rotation, nutrients and moisture are used more fully, since the root systems of different crops lie at different depths. In the simplest case, the garden can be divided into three parts and crops can be alternated by year in the following order:

1 year - crops that are demanding on soil fertility, well fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers: vegetables from the pumpkin family, leaf crops, cabbage;

2nd year - peas, which make good use of organic fertilizers applied to the previous crop, improve and enrich the soil with nitrogen for the following vegetables;

3rd year - root crops that require little nutrition are placed. However, based on the biological characteristics of peas, they should not be placed in the same place earlier than four years later.

Therefore, the garden plot must be divided into four parts and the early potato crop must be introduced into the crop rotation. Then the crop rotation looks like this: 1 - potatoes + good organic fertilizer; 2 - crops demanding on fertility; 3 - peas and other leguminous crops; 4 - vegetables with low nutritional requirements.

Soil preparation. They begin to prepare it for sowing peas in the fall. The area is cleared of plant debris. Unseeded weeds and the remains of the previous crop without traces of disease are used to prepare composts. The remaining weeds are burned. Then they apply fertilizer and dig it up. N. S. Tsyganok (1995) proposes the following method of digging the soil manually to a depth of two spade bayonets (35-40 cm). The first bayonet of the soil of the first furrow is placed on the side of the road, the second bayonet of the furrow (subarable) is shoveled, and simultaneously with digging, ash (400-500 g/m2), humus (3-4 kg/m2), mineral fertilizers - superphosphate (20- 40 g/m2) and potassium chloride (10-20 g/m2). The first bayonet from the second furrow is placed on the bottom layer loosened and mixed with fertilizers, and so on. The top layer is also fertilized with mineral fertilizers in the same quantities. If the soil has high acidity (this is indicated by a layer of podzol at a shallow depth and the presence of many plants such as horsetail, sorrel, sedge), then liming (200-400 g/m2) is required during the winter. Instead of limestone, you can use slaked lime, chalk, wood ash, dolomite flour, and eggshells. The application rate for slaked lime is 1.35 times less compared to limestone, and ash is 5-10 times more. Chalk and dolomite flour are equated to limestone. Most lime materials cannot be applied at the same time as fresh manure to avoid loss of nitrogen. Such soil treatment provides access to moisture and air into the deep layers, creates favorable conditions for the life of nitrogen-fixing bacteria and beneficial microorganisms that decompose organic matter, destroys pests and pathogens, and clears the area of weeds.

Variety selection and seed preparation. In winter, you need to stock up on seeds if you do not sow those obtained on your site. Fifteen varieties of vegetable peas are currently zoned in the North-West region. Of these, four are sugar varieties, that is, their beans are completely used for food; there is no parchment layer in their shells. There are also 11 hulled varieties - green seeds, hulled from beans containing a parchment layer, are used for food purposes.

The most interesting of them:

Inexhaustible 195 is a mid-early variety, 50-60 days until the first bean harvest, 75-85 days until the seeds ripen. Dessert variety. The plant is semi-dwarf. Sugar beans, 7-10 cm long. Brain seeds, sweet with a delicate taste. Weight of 1000 seeds is 220-260 g. Productivity is 1.5-2 kg/m2.

Sugar 2 is a medium-late variety. The plant is semi-dwarf. The bob is straight, 7-9 cm long, pointed, without a parchment layer. The number of seeds in a bean is 7-9. Purpose: Sugar blades are used fresh.

Zhegalova 112 is a medium-late variety, from germination to first harvest 60-75 days, to ripening 90-110 days. Long-stemmed, requires garter. Dessert variety. Collection period 12-16 days. Sugar beans, sword-shaped with a blunt end, 11-14 cm long. Seeds are cerebral, often angular, wrinkled, bluish-green. Weight of 1000 seeds is 250-270 g. Productivity is 0.6-0.8 kg/m2.

Alpha is an early ripening variety, from germination to biological ripeness 65-75 days. The plant is semi-dwarf. The beans are slightly curved to saber-shaped, 7 cm long, shelled. Seeds are cerebral, square-compressed, yellow-green. Weight of 1000 seeds is 200-250 g. Ripening is smooth. It has high taste qualities. Productivity 1-1.5 kg/m2. Weakly affected by diseases.

Adagumsky is a mid-early variety, from germination to biological ripeness 75-85 days. The plant is semi-dwarf, 75 cm high. There are 13-15 internodes to the first inflorescence. The beans are shelled, straight with a blunt tip, dark green. Brain seeds, weight of 1000 seeds is 200-220 g. Good quality peas. Productivity 2-2.5 kg/m2.

Voskhod is a mid-season pea variety, from germination to biological ripeness 85-95 days. The plant is medium-sized, 60-80 cm high. The beans are shelled, slightly curved with a pointed apex, dark green, 7-8 cm long. Weight of 1000 seeds is 180-200 g. Brain seeds, compressed vertically. Productivity 1.5-2 kg/m2.

The use of these varieties ensures that we obtain our own seeds for sowing in our region. All zoned varieties have brain seeds, which have high sugar content and low starch content, which is very valuable for canning, since they leave the jar solution transparent.

Also, on garden plots in the region, you can use non-registered, but very good varieties. Such as the Miracle of Kelvidon 1378, Little Miracle, Belladonna 136, Izumrud, Karaganda 1053, Sugar Brovtsyna 28 and others. It is worth noting the peas Soup Spatula 181. The variety is early ripening - only 45 days pass before the first bean harvest. The collection extends over a long period. The stem is of average length 70-110 cm. The seeds are yellowish-pink, medium-sized. Spatulas are delicious in soups and canned food.

Vegetable pea variety Ambrosia . Stem height 60-70 cm. The color of the bean and seeds is green. A young sugar spatula with rudimentary peas is used for food.

Gloriosa . The variety is productive, early ripening. Medium height plants. The seeds are light green and have a pleasant sweet taste. The variety is intended for canning and freezing.

Sowing . In early spring, as soon as the snow melts and the lumps on the soil surface turn gray, harrowing is carried out using an iron rake; after 2-3 days this work is repeated in the transverse direction. Pre-sowing cultivation in the Leningrad region usually begins in the second ten days of May, as soon as the soil is ripe. There is a well-known way to determine its ripeness: take a handful of earth from a depth of 10 cm, squeeze it into a ball and throw it from a height of 1 m onto the path. If the lump crumbles evenly, then the soil is ready for sowing. Pre-sowing treatment on light soils is done to a depth of 5-8 cm, on heavy and compacted soils - to 15-20 cm. Before spring loosening, it is necessary to give a starting dose of nitrogen, preferably urea (5-10 g/m2), since nodule bacteria begin fix atmospheric nitrogen from the budding phase of the pea plant.

Then the area is harrowed again with a rake and divided into rectangular plots, since they are more convenient to work on. The soil is broken up with an iron rake and the unbroken lumps are thrown into the boundaries. On light soils, paths are trampled between plots. Ridges and ridges are laid on soils with a small arable layer, as well as on damp areas, placing them across the slope. On a flat surface in the conditions of North-West Russia - from north to south.

I. Yankov, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, VIR named after N.I. Vavilov, based on materials from the website www.floraprice.ru

Author: Olga
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Pests and diseases of peas

Perhaps the most malicious enemy of peas is the leaf roller, or pea codling moth, whose caterpillars overwinter in the soil. The flight of pea codling moth butterflies from the cocoon, as a rule, coincides with the moment the peas begin to bloom. Each butterfly lays about two hundred eggs on leaves, beans, stems and flowers. After about a week, small caterpillars appear from them, which, getting inside the beans, eat the peas, and gardeners are left without a harvest.

Protect your pea plantings from pests There are many methods to combat the pea codling moth, but I only use a couple, which I will share with you:

Method 1 : I periodically spray the plants with infusion of tomato tops. To prepare, I take about 3 kg of tops per 10 liters of water.
Method 2 : I treat pea plantings with garlic infusion. To prepare it, I take 20 g of garlic, put through a garlic press, add 10 liters of water, and leave for a day. I filter the infusion and spray it on the pea plants.

By the way, both tomato and garlic infusions help very well against such pests as pea aphids.

Powdery mildew is considered a fairly common disease of peas. I prefer to fight it using an infusion of field sow thistle: I infuse 300 g of plant leaves overnight in a bucket of water. I spray the peas with this infusion twice, with an interval of 7-8 days.

Growing conditions

Peas are cultivated in different regions, but they still prefer a temperate climate. To grow peas, certain conditions are required:

sunny area, the crop does not tolerate shade well;
open and well-ventilated place;
remoteness of groundwater;
the soil is light and fertile, preferably loamy, neutral or slightly acidic;
good aeration;
correct predecessors - almost all crops, except representatives of the legume family, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkin, cucumbers are better;
for seed germination, a temperature of 1-2 degrees is needed, vegetative organs begin to form at 12-16 degrees, and generative organs at 16-20 degrees;
bean growth and seed filling occurs at 16-22 degrees;
Peas do not like heat, at a temperature of 25 degrees their growth slows down, at 35 degrees and above it stops;
do not return the peas to their original place for at least 4 years.

Not only the predecessors of peas are important, but also the crops grown in the neighborhood. It gets along well with potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, radishes, lettuce, corn, sunflowers, and strawberries. They can even be planted in the same bed. The proximity of seed peas to plants of the onion family, watercress, dill, fennel and basil should be excluded.

If the soil is acidic, you need to add lime. 0.35-0.4 kg of substance per square meter is enough.

The soil for planting peas needs to be prepared in the fall. When digging, you need to add organic matter - per 1 square meter. m up to 6 kg of fertilizers. In spring, loosening of the area is required. At the same time, it is effective to introduce ash.