How to plant zucchini: all the secrets and tricks of planting

Many domestic gardeners are interested in how and when to plant zucchini in open ground to obtain a decent harvest of tasty and high-quality fruits. Firstly, in order to determine the optimal timing for planting without seedlings, you need to take into account the current weather conditions and the characteristics of the plant. Secondly, it is important to know how well the selected varieties and hybrids are adapted to the specific climate characteristic of the growing area. If you wish, you can also rely on the recommendations of the “lunar” sowing calendars, choosing the most favorable days.

aZucchini is a universal vegetable that has excellent commercial and taste properties and is in high consumer demand

First of all, let's consider the objective factors influencing the fruiting of this melon crop in open ground.

Where to plant zucchini: in the sun or in the shade

Let's start with planning, namely, choosing a location for the squash bed. It would seem that everything is simple here. Zucchini - a relative of cucumber and pumpkin - loves sun and warmth. This means that the more sun the plant receives, the more fruits the summer resident will receive. Fair. In the Moscow region, the central zone and other regions not spoiled by heat, this is exactly what you should do: plant zucchini in a sunny area. In the sun, more female flowers appear, and accordingly, more ovaries.

In the southern regions everything is different. There is plenty of sunlight here. And squash bushes or vines will grow much better in partial shade, under trees, where moisture is retained longer.

Choosing the right variety

When choosing a variety of zucchini, a certain list of factors is taken into account:

• ripening time;
• productivity;
• self-pollination of the crop;
• taste of ripened fruits;

The most popular varieties are of Dutch origin. They have many advantages:

• the seeds are well suited for the weather conditions of many regions of Russia (the central part, the Urals, Western Siberia);
• after planting, the seedlings quickly sprout and produce a good harvest;
• seeds of good quality, represent environmentally friendly products.

Selecting a variety by ripening time

According to the ripening period, zucchini varieties are divided into 3 main categories:

• early ripening (Tsukesha, Chaklun, Mostra F1, Ardendo 174 F1). Zucchini ripens 38 days after sowing. The harvest is consumed raw; the fruits have thin skin and tender pulp. They are suitable for planting in cold regions with short summers;
• mid-ripening varieties ripen 45–50 days after planting. They are recommended to be planted in warmer regions where there is a calendar summer for 3 months;
• Late-ripening varieties ripen on the 58th day after planting. They are best planted in southern regions with a mild climate (Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region).

Bush varieties of zucchini are popular. They have high productivity, grow economically over the garden area and are unpretentious in care. Main representatives:

• Iskander F1 is a popular hybrid with good yield. Ripe fruits are oblong, light green in color, 15 cm or more in length. Zucchini grows to a weight of about 15 kg;
• Chaklun, with a ripening period of up to 45 days, is well resistant to various diseases. Ripe fruits are round in shape and have a characteristic light green color. The crop bears fruit well throughout the season;
• Pharaoh is a bush variety with dark green cylindrical fruits. Ripe fruits are subject to long-term storage;
• Aeronaut, compact variety. Ripe fruits are cylindrical in shape with dark green ribs and small inclusions. They have a delicate taste and are used for making salads;
• Spaghetti. Zucchini growing as shrubs with oval-shaped fruits. This variety requires a lot of sun. When boiled, ripe zucchini resembles orange fibers similar to vermicelli.

Selecting a variety by region of residence

The choice of zucchini variety primarily depends on the region where the crop is planted:

• The Moscow region, Leningrad region is considered central Russia with a temperate continental climate. In this zone you can grow many varieties of zucchini (Pharaoh, Tsukesha, Chaklun, Iskander F1, Spaghetti, Watermelon, Golden Scallop, Apollo F1, Parthenon, Mostra F1, Cavili F1, Kolobok, Orange, Ball);
• The Northwestern part of Russia is characterized by the selection of local varieties or cold-resistant representatives with a ripening period of no more than 45 days (Anna, Anchor, Zebra, Belogor F1);
• The Urals are a cold region. For cultivation, it is necessary to select individual representatives of cold-resistant varieties (Aeronaft, Arlika F1, Gribovsky 37, Yakor);
• varieties of zucchini for Siberia (Beloplodny, long-fruited, Polar Bear, Roller).

Expert opinion

Stanislav Pavlovich

Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert

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Important! The choice of a suitable variety of zucchini for growing depends on the region of residence and the characteristics of weather conditions. You should always give preference to varieties zoned for your area.

What is the best place to plant zucchini next to: about neighbors and predecessors

To reduce the risk of disease, we recommend adhering to the principles of crop rotation. Simply put, do not grow vegetables in the same bed two years in a row.

You shouldn’t plant zucchini after cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, watermelons or melons either. All these plants belong to the same family. This means they have similar diseases, common pests and the same nutritional requirements. But after cabbage, legumes, onions or garlic, zucchini will feel great. And if green manure (mustard, oats, vetch, etc.) grew in the garden in front of the zucchini, that’s even better!

Good neighbors for zucchini will be chard and beets, turnips and radishes, onions or basil.

Caring for zucchini in open ground

Zucchini should be watered at the root as the top layer of soil dries, usually no more than once every 10 days, on average spending about 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m. Excess moisture can cause the end of the squash to rot. But if the summer is dry and the zucchini is thirsty, its stems may crack and suffer from root rot. Therefore, it is always better to focus on weather conditions. Water for irrigation must be heated to 22°C or first kept in the sun, since cool water from a well or pump can cause rotting of the ovaries.

Some gardeners advise stopping watering altogether 7-10 days before harvest, arguing that in this case the zucchini is less susceptible to rotting.

If you water zucchini abundantly in a greenhouse or greenhouse, do not forget about ventilation, because the plant does not like high humidity (more than 70%) too much. It is also advisable to maintain the temperature at 24-26°C during the day and 15°C at night. If these simple rules are not followed, plants may express their dissatisfaction by starting to shed their ovaries.

In order to ensure a decent harvest, it is necessary to attract as many pollinating insects as possible to the garden. This can be achieved in different ways. For example, during flowering, some gardeners spray zucchini with a solution of sugar (100 g per 1 l) and boric acid (2 g per 10 l). Or leave containers with honey diluted in water between the beds (1 tsp per glass of water). But there is an even simpler way. Plant marigolds between the beds, which will attract pollinating insects, provide additional protection for zucchini from nematodes attacking the roots, and will delight you with abundant flowering.

• Decorative vegetable garden, or how to grow flowers and vegetables in the same bed

  We'll tell you how to combine flowers and vegetables in one garden bed.

When the plants have 4-5 true leaves, the bushes need to be earthed up to cause the growth of additional lateral roots. Also, before the leaves close, it is advisable to loosen the soil under the zucchini several times and weed it as necessary.

What soil do zucchini prefer?

Zucchini loves neutral, fertile, fairly moist (but not waterlogged) soils. If the bed or hole is well prepared, they will grow not only on black soil, but also on loamy and sandy loam soils. Wet areas with close groundwater may experience more problems with pathogenic fungi. But they can also be solved by planting on a high bed or heap.

The most important thing is that the soil is warm and nutritious. Both are provided by a large amount of diverse organic matter. Manure, humus, droppings, compost, stems, tops, sawdust, weeds - everything is useful for growing zucchini. There’s a reason why it’s considered an ideal first-year crop for fresh organic garden beds.

Possible difficulties during cultivation

When growing zucchini, certain difficulties may arise:

• absence of insects that provide flower pollination. To eliminate this problem, you need to do artificial pollination (spraying, combining male flowers with female ones);
• infertility of the soil (for each soil it is important to select the appropriate fertilizer and carry out the correct fertilizing procedures);
• the presence of bad seeds (before planting, it is important to choose a suitable variety and carry out appropriate preparation for processing the seed);
• increased soil acidity is a serious problem for the successful cultivation of zucchini. The pH level is stabilized by adding slaked lime, wood ash, ground chalk, flour;
• incorrect choice of planting location for zucchini (the plant loves a lot of light, so it needs to be planted in open areas and fertile soil);
• a large amount of groundwater. If there is excessive moisture, zucchini stops growing normally and gradually rots. The problem is eliminated by arranging high beds and adding organic fertilizers;
• bad neighbors (for example, zucchini should not be planted near pumpkins).

Zucchini planting scheme

Once the zucchini site has been chosen and the garden neighbors have been taken care of, it’s time to look at planting patterns. Typically, gardeners use one of three schemes:

• Tape landing. The bushes are planted in a row at a distance of 70-80 centimeters from each other. The distance between the rows should be even greater - up to a meter. This scheme is for large beds and areas
• Checkerboard landing. As in the first case, it involves planting in a row. Only the bushes in the second row are planted not opposite each other, but in a checkerboard pattern. Thanks to this simple trick, you can reduce the distance between rows to the same 70-80 centimeters
• The square nest design is our favorite option. The holes are located in the corners of a square 70x70 centimeters. The bushes do not shade each other and do not compete for nutrients. And in a good year, one such “square” is enough to provide both yourself and your neighbors with zucchini

Description of zucchini and overview of varieties

Zucchini forms a powerful bush up to 70 cm high, sometimes more, on which elongated fruits of yellow, dark green or white grow. Only 7–14-day-old young fruits are eaten. Older fruits are much larger, but become hard and practically unsuitable for food. They are used as livestock feed, but their feed value is low, because zucchini fruits of any age are low in calories. But this quality makes them simply irreplaceable in a person’s diet for losing excess weight.

Four different varieties of zucchini

100 g of zucchini provides only 27 kilocalories. Of the nutrients, it contains the most potassium - 240 mg. There is iron, organic acids and a set of vitamins of groups C, PP, B and carotene.

Self-pollinating varieties of zucchini

Used for growing indoors, in the absence of pollinating insects:

• Cavili.
• Parthenon.
• Jellyfish.

Early varieties

• Ball.
• Tsukesha.
• Aeronaut.

Late varieties

• Calabash.
• Spaghetti.

Ancient varieties

• Gribovsky.
• Odessa.
• Kuldzhinskie.
• Greek.

What to put in the hole when planting zucchini

The last (but most important) stage of working with the garden bed is preparing the planting hole. To do this, you do not need to dig up the entire bed; just loosen it with a flat cutter, cutting off the weeds. And then for each bush, dig a hole to a depth of 35-40 centimeters of the same diameter. At the bottom of each hole we place a thick layer (20 centimeters) of fresh organic matter. This could be, for example:

• manure,
• chopped grass or weeds with the addition of chicken manure,
• the same grass mixed with sawdust,
• tops of early crops,
• kitchen waste.

Sprinkle compost on top, cover the bed with film and leave for a week.

No compost? Then spill the hole with a solution of any EM preparation or infusion of fermented herbs. Additionally, you can add a tablespoon of superphosphate or a glass of wood ash to each well.

Within a week, the “organic cushion” in the holes will sag. All we have to do is fill the hole to the brim with a mixture of earth and humus, water well and plant the zucchini.

Preparing seeds for planting

In order for the seeds to germinate faster and the seedlings to be friendly, they need to be properly prepared.

Checking seeds for germination

First you need to prepare sawdust, which is first poured with boiling water several times every half hour. After that, they are poured into a small box. Seeds are laid out in rows on top of the sawdust. A distance of 1–1.5 cm is left between them, and 2–3 cm between the rows. Then the planting material to be tested is sprinkled with sawdust and compacted by hand. The box should be located in a room with a temperature of +23–27˚С. After emergence, the number of sprouted seeds is counted. To make it easier to calculate the percentage of germination, it is better to plant 10 seeds per germination.

To check the germination of seeds, they are wrapped in damp gauze and placed in a warm place for germination.

Soaking and germination

To soak the seeds you will need a small container and a piece of gauze. The seeds are evenly laid out on a damp cloth and covered with another layer on top. Then they are filled with water at a temperature no higher than +35˚C, after which the container is placed in a dark place. During soaking, you need to monitor the condition of the water and periodically replace it with fresh water. The soaking period should last no more than 16–20 hours, which is quite enough to soften the shell and swell the seed material.

The water must be replaced as soon as its color changes from clear to brown.

Zucchini seeds can be soaked not in ordinary water, but in special solutions that will help improve growth and stimulate productivity. Nutrients and growth stimulants should be diluted in warm water at a temperature of about +25˚С. For germination, you can use one of the following solutions:

• Dissolve 1 tsp in 1 liter of water. nitrophoskas or nitroammophoskas;
• dilute potassium permanganate in warm water to make a pink solution, and add half a tablet of any microelements;
• Dilute 1 tsp in 1 liter of water. Kristalin or Rost-1 products;
• add 1 tbsp to 1 liter of warm water. l. wood ash.

To improve the germination of seed material, it is soaked in growth stimulants

Germination is carried out similarly to soaking: seeds in gauze are placed in a container and filled with a small amount of nutrient solution so that the liquid only covers the fabric. The seeds should remain in this state for 3–4 days before sprouts appear.

How to plant zucchini: seeds or seedlings

We have come to a question for which there is no clear answer: what is the best way to plant zucchini through seedlings or directly from the seed into the ground? Here each gardener is guided by his own capabilities. It is clear that the seedling method is more labor-intensive and costly. Is the skin worth the price? In some cases, yes. It makes sense to grow squash seedlings if you:

• you live in a region where nothing grows without seedlings and shelter,
• you really want to get the harvest a couple of weeks earlier than usual,
• Are you worried that the seeds planted in the ground will rot, be eaten by rodents, etc.

Don't care about the above points? Plant zucchini without seedlings. In good weather and sufficient humidity, seedlings will appear very quickly.

Planting zucchini seeds in the ground

Timing of sowing seeds

Since zucchini is not a vegetable that can withstand frost, it is recommended to plant the seeds in warm soil, approximately +10-12°C. As a rule, in the middle zone the temperature reaches the indicated values ​​​​at the end of May or beginning of June. In the southern regions - a month earlier. On average, it takes 40-50 days for zucchini to actively bear fruit, but the exact ripening period depends on the variety.

Preparing seeds for sowing

If the seeds are not treated by the manufacturer (information about this should be on the packaging), we can carry out some preparatory manipulations with them before planting. This will help speed up germination and increase yield. As a mandatory procedure for all pumpkin plants, we recommend heating the seeds to increase the number of ovaries. We choose one of three methods for warming up:

• A week before sowing, place the seeds in a sunny place and do not forget to move them after the sun,
• Keep the seed in a vegetable dryer for 6 hours at a temperature of +50°C,
• Soak the seeds in hot (+50°C) water for 4-5 hours.

After warming up, you can proceed to hardening procedures. First, the seeds are kept in a damp cloth for three days until they swell (but not until they germinate), and then they are placed in the refrigerator for two days. If you want shoots to appear in just a couple of days, you need to soak the seeds a little longer until the sprout appears. But even without germination, zucchini does not “sit in the ground” for long - usually the seeds sprout in 4-6 days.

When soaking seeds, sometimes they use not ordinary water, but a solution of a stimulating drug: Epin, Zircon and the like. This increases the plant’s resistance to stress, especially its chances of producing fruit under unfavorable conditions.

Landing technology

Have you ever wondered how to properly plant a zucchini: with the blunt end up or the pointed end? But Canadian gardeners recommend placing the seed horizontally, on its edge. This is explained simply: water flows faster down the sides of the seed, so the risk of rotting from excess moisture is much less.

At what depth should I plant zucchini? In loose soils, seeds are buried 5-7 centimeters. This way the sprout will have time to shed its shell, and the cotyledon leaves will not be deformed. In heavy loamy soils, deep planting may slow germination. In this case, the recommended sowing depth is 3-5 centimeters.

How many seeds should I plant in a hole? If this is an expensive original variety or hybrid, one seed in a hole will be enough. When you have your own seeds, you can sow two or three seeds per hole, but then still leave only the strongest plant and pinch out the rest.

Immediately after planting, mulch the holes with a small amount of peat, humus, compost or coconut substrate. Mulch will prevent the top layer of soil from turning into crust and will make it easier for the sprout to emerge.

Growing zucchini seedlings

Have you decided that planting zucchini seedlings is safer? Then we will need individual cups, soil and a place on the windowsill or in the greenhouse.

When to plant zucchini seedlings

As a rule, zucchini seedlings are planted in the ground at the age of 25-30 days. This means that in late April-early May you can sow seeds in cups. By this time, many gardeners have already moved to country houses for permanent residence and place cups of seedlings directly in the greenhouse. And for those who stayed in the city, space on the windowsill is now freed up - peppers and tomatoes are slowly “moving” into the ground.

Daylight hours are long, cloudy days are rare - in general, the ideal time for growing seedlings.

Planting and caring for seedlings

With seeds that need preliminary preparation, you can carry out the same procedures that we described above.

Any individual cups are suitable as containers for seedlings - store-bought cups, sour cream cups, cut-off milk cartons, peat pots or tablets, etc. The main thing is no shared boxes! All pumpkin plants do not like picking. It is better to grow them in separate containers, and then transplant them into a garden bed together with a ball of earth.

The following mixture is best suited as a substrate for zucchini seedlings:

• 1 part humus + 1 part garden soil,
• 1 part peat + 1 part humus,
• 5 parts peat + 2 parts sawdust + 2 parts ash + 1 part compost.

We plant zucchini seeds in containers filled with soil to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. We spray the soil with a spray bottle, put all the cups in a box and cover it with film. We send the box to a warm place (+22-24°C). After the emergence of seedlings, we change the greenhouse conditions to more “severe” ones - +17-20°C. So that young shoots harden and do not stretch. Zucchini seedlings do not require any special care other than regular watering. Feeding is only needed if the appearance of the seedlings seems unhealthy to you.

To transplant into previously prepared and well-moistened holes, choose a cloudy day or evening. Water the seedlings generously, and then cut or tear the pots, being careful not to damage the roots. In the middle of the hole we make a hole in which we place the plant along with a lump of earth. Sprinkle the seedlings with soil and lightly compact the soil. Seedlings can be buried down to the cotyledon leaves, and elongated seedlings are even deeper - the zucchini is able to grow additional roots on the buried stem.

There is another working option for growing zucchini through seedlings. It is suitable for those who do not want to spend a whole month fiddling with seedlings, but who are afraid to sow seeds directly into the garden. After all, pests, low temperatures or heavy rains have destroyed the seeds more than once. In this case, zucchini is planted as seedlings around mid-May, wait for germination (sometimes for the appearance of one true leaf) and carefully plant young seedlings in the garden bed. They take root very well, as they say, without even “feeling” the transplant.

Do I need to cover the zucchini bed after planting?

Even at the beginning of summer, you can expect very unpleasant surprises from the weather in the middle zone.
We recommend keeping the zucchini under cover for the first week after planting, and then relying on the air temperature. Young plants can be protected by a temporary structure made of arches covered with spunbond or film. During the day, the covering material will have to be rolled up and lowered again at night. Don't have time for such designs? We use the top part of an ordinary five-liter plastic bottle for covering. During the day we will unscrew the cap for ventilation, and in the evening we will “cork” the bottles again.

Timing of sowing seeds

The choice of optimal timing directly depends on the growing region. Experienced vegetable growers plant zucchini in the spring, focusing on the average daily temperature, which should be at least +15...18 ℃. It is important that the top layer of soil has time to warm up to +12...14 ℃ and the threat of return frosts has finally passed, as they are destructive for tender seedlings. The most suitable times for sowing zucchini in open ground and planting seedlings are the following periods:

Temperatures considered optimal for plant growth and development are: soil at least +11…13 ℃, air – around +20…25 ℃

Favorable days for planting zucchini seeds in open ground according to the lunar calendar for 2021 are: May 1, 2, 5-7, 10, 13, 17, 19-22, 24-26, 28; June 2, 3, 6-8.

Alternative ways to plant zucchini

In the autumn garden

The good old proven option for those who do not have the time or desire to prepare beds or holes in the spring. For some, it is more convenient to do this in the fall. Well, to your health!

In this case, the bed where they plan to plant zucchini in the spring is dug up or loosened with the addition of fertilizers. It can be green green manure, manure, droppings or nitrophoska. By spring, all the nutrients will already be in the soil, and all you have to do is water the garden bed, stick the seeds into the ground and sprinkle them with humus or soil.

To a warm bed

One of the best ways to grow zucchini involves planting seeds or seedlings in a warm bed. They can be deep - so-called organic trenches. Or, conversely, elevated. Regardless of the type, the essence of a warm bed is simple. It is made like lasagna - it is successively filled with layers of various organic matter. What goes down is what takes a long time to decompose: rotten wood, rags made from natural fabrics, branches, cabbage stalks. The higher the layer, the faster it should rot. The very last layer of such a bed will be 20 centimeters of soil or humus.

Zucchini can be planted in such a bed ahead of schedule. And you don’t have to feed them - the supply of food in organic beds is enough for 2-3 years. And if the beds are constantly mulched with organic matter, then they can be used for their intended purpose for 5-6 years.

The following articles will help you find out more, in more detail and more specifically about warm beds: Organic beds: types and varieties and How to make a warm bed with your own hands.

In a barrel or large bag

In small areas, container growing of zucchini is often practiced. That is, the seeds are planted not in beds, but in large pots, barrels, buckets or thick hundred-liter bags. The technology is the same for all containers:

• First of all, holes are made in the bottom so that excess moisture does not linger inside,
• Then lay a drainage layer of brushwood, expanded clay or pebbles,
• The last stage is filling the container with a variety of organic matter according to the principle of a warm bed.

Depending on the size of the container, from one to three zucchini are planted in each container.

On the compost heap

A compost heap in a well-lit area is an ideal bed for zucchini. It is enough to level the top, sprinkle it with a small layer of earth and spill it with a solution of an EM preparation, urea or herbal infusion.

You can plant seeds or seedlings of zucchini on compost a week ahead of schedule, just like in a warm garden bed. Because a compost heap is a warm bed. The process of rotting plant residues inside will prevent the roots from getting too cold.

Under black film

Even on a new site, where there are no beds or compost heaps yet, you can grow zucchini by building a quick bed for them under a black film.
First you need to choose a suitable area and mow the grass on it. We lay this same grass, as well as other weeds, last year’s leaves, tops and other plant debris on the ground and water it with water, a pink solution of potassium permanganate, a solution of urea or an herbal infusion. Sprinkle all this organic matter with a layer of 5-10 centimeters of soil and cover it with black film. After 3-4 days, we mark places on the bed according to the planting pattern and make holes in the film. This is where we plant zucchini seeds.

The film remains on the bed until the end of the season. It will prevent weeds from growing and will retain heat inside the bed. And in the fall, after harvesting, you can safely send all the contents of the garden bed to compost.

In the greenhouse

Of course, we should not oppress the permanent inhabitants of our greenhouses - tomatoes, eggplants or peppers. But if you have a film greenhouse or a greenhouse in which there is a little space at the very edge, you can conduct an interesting experiment with climbing zucchini. For example, with spaghetti squash. Plant the plants in a greenhouse and, as they grow, release all the vines outside. Warmth is much more important for roots than for leaves. Zucchini will not be so sensitive to cold snaps, temperature changes and other troubles, but at the same time they will not take up much space in the greenhouse.

Whatever method of planting zucchini you choose, we are sure that a good harvest will not keep you waiting. And if in doubt, read the article Growing zucchini from A to Z with recommendations for care, watering and fertilizing.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Necessary conditions for growing zucchini

Despite the fact that zucchini is grown almost everywhere, not every vegetable grower knows how to plant zucchini correctly. To do this, you need to take into account the requirements of zucchini for the growing area, the composition and nutritional value of the soil, properly prepare the seeds and choose the appropriate planting method.

Choosing a site for zucchini

The culture places increased demands on the temperature and illumination of the area. It is known that zucchini belongs to the Pumpkin family. All representatives of this family belong to heat- and light-loving plants.

In this regard, it is necessary to protect the area with zucchini from cold northern winds and plantings should not be in the shade.

Crop rotation

@imago, Flickr
It is not recommended to grow zucchini in the same place year after year. In addition, it is extremely undesirable to place zucchini after cucumbers, pumpkins, melons and squash, since these vegetables also belong to the Pumpkin family.

Such restrictions on predecessors are due to the fact that representatives of the same family are more often affected by the same pests and diseases, which remain overwintering in the soil, and with the onset of spring they attack young plants.

On the portal you can find more information about crop rotation: after which to plant zucchini, the best companions and what to plant after zucchini.

The best predecessors for zucchini are:

• legumes,
• potato;
• onion;
• carrot;
• beet.

Soil fertility requirements

Zucchini is quite demanding on soil fertility. For their normal growth, the area should be dug up with a shovel to a depth of 30 cm in the fall and filled with organic fertilizers. If the reaction of the soil solution is acidic, then the area should be limed.

With the onset of spring, the soil on the site is loosened with a rake and mineral fertilizers are applied in accordance with the instructions. Typically added per square meter:

• ammonium nitrate - 20 g;
• double superphosphate - 30 g;
• Potassium sulfate - 25 g.

If the soil has a clayey mechanical composition, then you should add a bucket of river sand or peat chips per square meter to the soil.

Growing space

Zucchini is successfully grown in open and protected ground. The climbing shape of the bush requires a fairly large feeding area. It is advisable to plant this vegetable according to a 70 by 70 cm pattern. For early varieties, a 70 by 50 cm placement pattern is adopted.

To obtain earlier production in the open ground, some vegetable growers set up a so-called warm bed. It is somewhat reminiscent of a greenhouse. It can reach 60 cm or more in height. The upper part of the bed is a layer of fertile soil, and plant residues, compost or humus are placed under it.

This whole mass melts and releases additional heat.

To preserve heat, the bed with zucchini is covered with film until June 15. In the middle of the day, the film is removed and the plantings are ventilated.

Zucchini harvest

Harvesting takes place as the crop ripens. In order to speed up the process, you should pick the fruits in a timely manner. Otherwise, the bush will not form new ovaries.

Vegetables should be collected early in the morning or after sunset. Otherwise, the crop will quickly become soft and may rot. The collected vegetables should be placed in a wooden box. Preventing shocks and other mechanical damage.

If you plan to collect seeds, one zucchini must be left until fully ripe. This vegetable is covered with a yellow shell that is not damaged. The time for collecting seeds most often occurs at the end of summer. The vegetable is cut and the seeds are carefully removed. Then they are washed and dried in the sun.

Attention! If a hybrid was cultivated in the garden bed, there is no point in collecting planting material.

Harvesting