Description of ampelous strawberries: characteristics and cultivation rules

What are ampel strawberries?

The main difference between ampelous strawberries and ordinary varieties is the formation of fruits not only on the stems, but also on the tendrils. Plants look very attractive, especially when planted in tall flowerpots and flowerpots - they are often used for decorative decoration of rooms and garden plots.

Features of ampelous strawberries:

  • All varieties of ampelous strawberries have a number of similar characteristics. They have compact bushes - 20-30 cm in diameter. The length of the tendrils-branches is 50-100 cm. The flowers are mostly white, but there are several varieties whose petals are pink.
  • Most of the time the bushes contain berries, which give the plant an extraordinary decorative effect.
  • Plants form many long tendrils, which can, without touching the ground, form fruiting rosettes - these, in turn, produce new tendrils with rosettes. Thus, intensive growth of the bush occurs, which is why ampelous strawberries are often called “climbing”. But, in fact, she is not one - the mustache does not curl, but simply hangs down. The formation of whiskers begins before the first flower stalks appear. Therefore, when the mother bush turns red with the first berries, the first buds are already forming on the rosettes.

"Ampel" in German is a hanging lamp. At first, hanging varieties were considered exclusively decorative - they were planted in pots that were hung from the ceiling.

Fruiting

Today, ampelous “long-lasting” strawberries are actively grown for the sake of harvest - after all, their fruiting lasts almost all year round. In place of the ripened berries, new ovaries with branches are immediately formed, and this continues continuously - throughout the entire growing season.

The berries of ampelous varieties produce not only peduncles, but also tendrils, which do not even need soil - they are able to bear fruit, feeding exclusively from the mother plant.

Repairability

Abundant fruiting due to the mustache is not the only advantage of hanging varieties. The second quality for which they are loved by gardeners all over the world is multiple harvests. Almost all ampelous varieties are remontant - they produce harvest after harvest during one growing season.

Self-fertility

Self-fertile varieties are those that are capable of bearing fruit without the participation of pollinating varieties. In order for non-self-fertile varieties to bear fruit, pollinators must be planted nearby, or the flowers must be pollinated by hand. Among the ampel strawberries there are many self-fertile varieties; this point can be easily clarified by looking at the list of properties printed on the bag of seeds.

Conditions

Ampelous varieties tolerate lack of lighting well. They grow excellently in conditions of slight light deficiency - balconies, terraces, and greenhouses are suitable for them. Ampelous strawberries can be planted in vertical “beds” - this is convenient and profitable, and saves a lot of space. It also grows well on tall structures - the berries do not touch the ground, which prevents many diseases, including rot.

“Climbing” strawberries climb “reluctantly”. But if you tie the mustache to the supports, they will wrap around them.

The gardener in his video demonstrates hanging strawberries, which he grows in unusual conditions - in hanging beds:

Sustainability

Most hanging varieties have average frost resistance, and their drought resistance is low. Only a few varieties can boast of drought resistance. Ampelous strawberries, growing at altitude, are less vulnerable to fungal diseases and rot. Most varieties have good resistance to all types of diseases.

Taste and Application

The berries of all ampelous varieties are large, sweet and tasty. The shape of the fruits is different - there are varieties with cone-shaped, elongated fruits, and others with spherical berries. Everyone can choose an option to suit their taste. Average weight - 20-30 g. The berries ripen quickly. They have a pleasant strawberry taste with a slight sourness.

The color intensity of the berries is affected by air humidity, as well as the presence of potassium fertilizers in the soil.

The crop is universal - used for landscaping, as an ornamental plant, and to produce tasty berries. The fruits are suitable for all types of preparations.

Advantages

At home, ampelous strawberries can bear fruit all year round.

Main advantages:

  • ease of care;
  • takes up little space;
  • bears fruit all year round;
  • does not depend on seasonality;
  • can be used as decoration;
  • specific taste and aroma.

Moreover, the level of productivity is not affected by the time of year - in favorable conditions the crop constantly blooms and bears fruit . What is special about ampelous strawberries? The mustache on the crop lengthens before the formation of peduncles begins. At the same time, flower rosettes form on the stepsons, and the development and subsequent ripening of the berries begins.

Advantages and disadvantages

Ampel varieties of strawberries have earned the best praise from gardeners and decorators - by planting such a berry, you will decorate your home or garden, and an additional reward will be a generous harvest.

Advantages of hanging varieties:

  • the ability to fully develop and bear fruit under conditions of light deficiency;
  • long fruiting;
  • high taste characteristics;
  • Possibility of vertical placement;
  • high yield.

Flaws:

  • Regular transplantation is required - every 2-3 years;
  • high frequency of watering;
  • demanding on soil fertility - if there is not enough fertilizer, the berries become smaller.

The best hanging varieties

Previously, much was not required of decorative strawberry varieties - as long as they grew and were beautiful. Today, breeders have developed dozens of varieties that are not only decorative, but also have all the qualities of the best strawberries - they are productive, have tasty fruits, and are resistant to viruses, bacteria and fungi.

Table 1 shows the most popular varieties of hanging strawberries and their features.

Table 1

Variety Average weight of berries, g Repairability Short description
Tuscany 30 YesCollection from one bush – 1 kg. A relatively young variety (brought out in 2011). The bushes are compact, up to 30 cm in diameter. The length of the shoots reaches 1 m.
Temptation F1* 15-25 YesUp to 20 flower stalks are formed on an adult bush. The fruits are large and juicy. Harvesting begins a month after flowering. The pulp is sweet, dense, pleasantly smelling. Up to 1.2 kg of berries are collected from the bush.
Queen Elizabeth II 30-40 YesThe variety is acclimatized in Russia. The fruits have a regular cone shape. The color is rich red, the skin is smooth and glossy. Fruits 2-3 times per season. Transplantation - every 1.5 years.
Kletter Star 40-50 YesHigh resistance to drought and frost. Able to endure winters without shelter. The bushes are compact, with a lot of tendrils. Peduncles bend down under the weight of the fruit. The fruits are juicy, bright red, with a strong aroma. The fruits tolerate transportation well.
Temptation 30 YesThe bushes are small, densely leafy. Peduncles are long, with large flowers. The berries are large, oblong, cone-shaped, bright red. The aroma has nutmeg notes. High frost resistance. Does not tolerate heat and drought well. Harvest – 1.5 kg.
Geneva 45-50 YesThe bushes are medium-sized, spreading. They are not placed close to each other - the bushes need space. Crowding increases the risk of gray rot. There are not many whiskers - about 7 pieces on one plant. The shape of the berries is a truncated cone. The surface is glossy, red. The pulp is juicy and aromatic. The taste is sweet, no sourness. The main difference of the variety is the ability to bear fruit in one place for a long time, not 5-2 years, but 5-6 years.
Ostara 50-60 (first berries), then 15-30 YesA reliable variety that sets fruit regardless of daylight hours. The variety is early fruiting. The height of the bushes is 25 cm. The first berries appear in June, the bulk of the harvest is 80%, ripens in August-September. One bush produces 1.2 kg of berries. The peculiarity of this variety is the harvest on bushes growing from the mustache. They separate from the mother bush, take root, and bear fruit. The maximum size of berries is 75 g. The taste is sweet and sour, aromatic. The berries become smaller during the season.
Eternity S1** 10-15 YesHarvest per bush – 0.5 kg. A variety for amateur gardeners. Fruiting - from early summer until frost. Features: pink flowers. The variety is winter-hardy, resistant to drought, pests and diseases.
Fresco 20 YesFruits from June to September. The fruits are not large, but numerous. The taste is sweet and sour, the aroma is strong, the flesh is dense but juicy. Features: It withstands temperature changes and has high immunity.
Pink miracle 20-30 long fruiting periodPineapple hybrid. Very tasty berries. The bushes are powerful, with pink flowers. The variety is frost-resistant, with high immunity. The berries are collected as they ripen.
Elsanta 40-45 YesHigh-yielding variety - 2 kg of berries are harvested from one bush. The surface is shiny, glossy. The first berries have light ends. The berries are medium and large. The stem comes off easily.

*The symbol F1 means that the plant is a hybrid obtained by crossing two different varieties. Seeds are not collected from the hybrid for further cultivation. Since it is unlikely that you will be able to get a good harvest from such seeds, and other positive qualities will also not be passed on to the next generation.

**The symbol S1 means the first generation of the varietal plant. Simply put, S1 is the seeds collected from the 1st year harvest of a varietal plant. S2 is the generation from S1. S1 has higher yield and other indicators than S2 and so on.

Other boarding options

Ampelous remontant strawberries are grown not only indoors and on balconies, but also in open ground. For example, some people plant these plants on a trellis. Thus, you can decorate your plot in an original way, and also get a wonderful harvest of delicious berries.

Not only a lattice, but also any fence is suitable as a vertical surface. Strawberries are planted at a distance of about 30 cm. As the mustaches form, they must be tied to the surface, trying to completely cover the entire trellis. The height of the grate should be no more than 1 meter.

More inventive gardeners plant strawberries in the shape of a pyramid. Such a bed looks more like a beautiful flower bed, and can pleasantly surprise your family and friends. To do this, you need to build 3 boxes of different sizes. The first, largest box should have a bottom, but the 2 smaller boxes should not. The height of the containers may be the same or may differ. Now the boxes are gradually filled with soil and laid out in the shape of a pyramid, as shown in the photo. Strawberries are planted in them at a distance of about 20 cm.

Attention! The number and shape of the pyramid levels depends on your desire and imagination.

How is it grown?

Ampel-type strawberries are grown in different ways - in cache-pots, pots, vases, vertical cassettes, pyramids. The latter are constructed from any available means - barrels, pots, etc. Lawns are also decorated with this crop, forming bushes into trellises.

The plant looks great in winter gardens and on balconies - you can make a continuously fruiting arch from it. Bushes can also be planted in open ground, but this growing method is used much less frequently.

Landing requirements

In order for ampel strawberries to grow and bear fruit well, they are provided with optimal growing conditions:

  • soils are light, drained, with neutral acidity (5.2-5.5 pH);
  • 8-10 hours of sunny day - in a too shady place the crop may stop bearing fruit;
  • absence of drafts;
  • crushed green manure - nasturtium, mustard, rapeseed, phacelia - are added to the soil used for planting.

When planting hanging varieties, the seedlings should not be planted too deep and close to each other. If planting is done in the ground, and even in early spring, then it is important to prevent it from freezing on the soil by covering it with film or other covering material.

Planting methods and instructions for them

Seedlings are usually planted in April-May or August. Methods for growing ampel strawberries:

  • In pots. For planting, select a container such that there is 1,500 cubic meters per adult plant. cm of soil. Next, they begin to prepare the substrate; it is prepared from sand - 1 part, turf soil - 3 parts, peat - 6 parts. To improve fertility, the soil is fed with organic matter. You can also buy ready-made soil in a specialized store. In order for the seedlings to take root as quickly as possible, before planting they are removed to a dark place, buried in the ground. There are no special requirements for the pot, the main condition is a height of 30 cm. Holes are made in the bottom so that excess water can flow out. The following is the planting order: Place a thin drainage layer on the bottom of the pot. Expanded clay, pebbles, broken bricks are suitable. The prepared soil mixture is placed on top.
  • The seedling is immersed in a container - the roots should be located vertically, and sprinkled with earth.
  • Seedlings planted in pots are watered abundantly.
  • On the grill. Seedlings are planted in open ground. A lattice, mesh, or wicker fence is installed nearby. The grown mustache is tied to the lattice structure. The minimum height of the structure is 1 m. When planting seedlings in open ground, the minimum distance between them is 30-35 cm.
  • Pyramid. A pyramidal structure is built from boxes of different sizes. For example, take boxes of the following sizes - 20x20x20 cm, 30x30x30 cm and 60x60x60 cm. Having placed the boxes on top of each other, they are filled with earth.
  • Vertical beds. One of the ways to grow ampel strawberries in greenhouses. The most convenient way to make beds is from inexpensive plastic pipes - they are installed vertically in the greenhouse. The diameter of the pipes is approximately 50 cm. Holes with a diameter of 25 cm are made in them. The pipes are filled with nutrient substrate, irrigation is supplied to them, and then seedlings are planted. You can also grow strawberries in film bags suspended vertically, which are filled with substrate. Plants are planted in pre-drilled holes in polyethylene.
  • method of growing ampelous strawberries “in pots”

    growing strawberries on a trellis

    planting strawberries in pyramid-shaped beds

    “vertical beds” (growing strawberries in bags)

    Let's assume that it is decided to plant strawberries in 3-liter pots with further cultivation in a greenhouse. Work order:

    • Place the pots with a height difference of 70-80 cm. If the height of the greenhouse is about 2.5 m, 3 lines of strawberries will fit in it. The intervals between adjacent pots are 40 cm.
    • The greenhouse is equipped with drip irrigation.
    • The optimal temperature in the greenhouse is 19-25°C. At higher temperatures, complete pollination does not occur.
    • When the plants bloom, the greenhouse is opened for better pollination of non-self-fertile varieties. If the varieties are self-fertile, then the greenhouse must constantly maintain high humidity - at the level of 90%.

    If the greenhouse area is 1-2 acres, then the total harvest will be 5 buckets, which is half as much as when growing ordinary strawberries.

    Growing

    The basics of growing ampelous varieties differ little from traditional ones. Among them there are both self-fertile (or self-pollinating) and those that require planting nearby other types of strawberries for pollination. Or hand pollination.

    They are not too demanding on lighting conditions and can grow in slight partial shade, so ampelous strawberries feel great on balconies and terraces, as well as at home. For normal fruiting, 8-10 hours of sunlight per day is enough for them.

    Plants planted not in the ground, but in high beds or hanging containers, are less exposed to fungi and microorganisms that cause rotting, so they get sick less often. But at the same time they become very demanding when it comes to watering, as they do not tolerate dry soil well.

    It can also be grown in regular garden beds. But it should be borne in mind that most varieties are not very frost-resistant. Such ampelous strawberries will require special care and cultivation in winter in open ground, with obligatory hilling with compost or backfilling with dry straw.

    You can also use dry leaves, but not from fruit trees, but from forest trees

    Otherwise, like ordinary strawberries, it requires standard growing conditions: light and fertile soil with neutral acidity, protection from drafts, regular fertilizing.

    Note! Strawberries grown in open ground are best fed with organic matter, adding crushed green manure to the soil: mustard, phacelia, nasturtium. And for fertilizing the soil in flowerpots and flowerpots, mineral fertilizers dissolved in water are preferable.

    Reproduction methods

    There are two ways to grow ampelous strawberries: grow them from seeds or plant seedlings purchased from a nursery or from neighbors. Then it can be propagated by rooting rosettes.

    For reference. Small-fruited varieties are best propagated by seeds, and large-fruited varieties and hybrids by seedlings.

    Strawberry seeds are slow to germinate; not all of them germinate and only if they are sown within a short time after ripening. Therefore, when purchasing, you first need to pay attention to the expiration date and the recommended sowing period. However, this method allows you to immediately obtain a large number of bushes, which, under favorable conditions and compliance with the planting date, will begin to produce berries already in the first season. And by the second they will turn into mature productive plants.

    To obtain your own seeds, cut off the top layer of the first ripe berries and dry it on paper for several days.

    The algorithm for growing seedlings from seeds is as follows:

    • a shallow container is filled with light peat soil, mixed with crushed coconut fiber. Level and pour a layer of clean river sand on top, and then a layer of snow. Since the seeds are planted in January-February, there are no problems with this component;
    • snow helps solve two problems: evenly distribute small seeds, which are better visible on a white background, and drown them in the soil substrate without sprinkling them on top. They germinate better in the light, and the snow, gradually melting, pulls them along with it into the ground, leaving them on the surface;
    • Having covered the container with film, place it in a warm place with a temperature of at least 25 degrees;
    • The first shoots appear in about a week, the latter can linger and germinate only after 3-4 weeks. All this time, the container is regularly ventilated, removing the film coating for a few minutes and wiping off condensation from it;

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    The seedlings are drawn to the light, they need to be periodically turned to the other side

    • the seedlings continue to be covered and ventilated until two true leaves appear on them, but are transferred to a cooler (18-20 degrees) and well-lit place;
    • Watering is carried out very carefully, without flooding the sprouts, but only slightly moistening the soil. You can use a syringe without a needle to dose out moisture and apply it precisely - this will protect the sprouts from blackleg;
    • after the appearance of the third leaf, the seedlings are planted in a larger container or in separate cups, after which the temperature of their contents is reduced a little more, maintaining it at 15-16 degrees.

    Picking seedlings into separate pots

    By mid-to-late May, the bushes will already have a good root system and 5-6 leaves. And it can be planted in a permanent place.

    You can root rosettes for propagating existing bushes in cups or directly in the ground. The first method is used when growing hanging strawberries in vertical plantings or if they are growing in a garden bed, but have grown so large that there is no room for new plants to take root.

    In such cases, in May, cups filled with soil are placed next to the mother plants and the strongest rosettes located on the tendrils are planted in them. The rest are cut off, but leave a connection between “mother” and “daughter” until the rosette sends out its own roots. The cups are shaded for the first time, and flower stalks are cut off from the plants in them so that they do not waste energy on bearing fruit.

    Reproduction by layering in cups

    Rooted young plants are separated from the parent and cared for as usual. And for the winter they are transferred to a cool, dark place and stop watering until spring. At the end of March they are moved into the house, protected from direct sunlight for the first week. With the arrival of warmth, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

    If there is space on the site, you can organize a mother bed by planting several adult plants on it and burying the growing tendrils around it.

    It is not necessary to use cups; rooted babies will easily overwinter under a layer of mulch

    Landing in a permanent place

    It is best to transplant seedlings in May or August. Plant it in hanging pots, vertical beds, boxes or in the ground.

    • To grow in pots or cache-pots, you need to prepare spacious containers so that each plant has at least 1.5 liters of soil, and better yet, even more. Height - at least 30 cm. The soil mixture is bought specially in the store or prepared by mixing peat with turf soil, sand and organic matter. And if there is a possibility of untimely watering, then a hydrogel is mixed into it, which accumulates moisture and gradually releases it as the soil dries. At the bottom of the pot, which must have holes to drain excess water, place a layer of broken brick, expanded clay or other drainage material and some prepared soil. They lower the seedling into it so that the roots hang vertically downwards, and cover it with earth, compacting it around the roots. Then water it abundantly and leave it in the shade for a couple of days.

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    Wicker baskets are great for growing strawberries

    • You can build a cascade bed from boxes by stacking them on top of each other. The landing method is the same.

    Instead of boxes, you can use car tires of different diameters

    • Vertical beds are made from bags filled with earth or large-diameter plastic pipes. Holes about 20-25 cm in size are made in them over the entire area and with the same distance between them, and young bushes are planted in them. Since watering such beds is problematic, thin perforated pipes are installed in them immediately, during the process of filling them with soil, into which water is poured during irrigation. To prevent the holes from becoming clogged, a nylon stocking is put on the pipe.

    Another option for a vertical bed made of film and mesh

    • When planting in ordinary beds on the ground, it is advisable to install trellises up to a meter high between the rows and tie growing shoots to them.

    Care

    Plants planted in pots and flowerpots need to be watered twice a day, especially in hot weather. They do not tolerate drought well and die without the required amount of water. But waterlogging should not be allowed; the soil should be kept slightly moist. The best solution would be well-regulated drip irrigation or watering through a tray.

    Since ampelous strawberries bear fruit almost without interruption, they need frequent feeding. They are carried out every 2-3 weeks, dissolving the following components in a bucket of water:

    • 40 g boric acid;
    • 180 g superphosphate;
    • 30 g ammonium nitrate;
    • 20 mg of potassium permanganate;
    • 2 mg zinc;
    • 1 mg copper.

    Plants in open ground can be fertilized with an infusion of weeds or by placing mowed grass between the rows. In contact with moist soil, it devolves, gradually releasing nutrients to it.

    It’s even easier to use complex mineral fertilizers by diluting them according to the instructions on the package

    If strawberries are grown as an ornamental plant, the growing tendrils are not cut off, allowing new rosettes with flowers and fruits to form on them. If the goal of cultivation is a high yield, then no more than 5-7 shoots are left on each bush, and no more than 3 rosettes on each of them.

    Wintering

    Another feature that distinguishes ampel strawberries is care and cultivation in winter. If you create the required level and duration of lighting, maintain a positive temperature and the required air humidity, you can grow it in apartments or heated greenhouses all year round. Many gardeners take several young plants in pots home for the winter and continue to care for them as usual.

    Strawberries can be grown at home on the windowsill

    If you need to save the bushes for the next season and give them a rest, then it is best to replant them in the ground or dig them directly into pots and mulch them well with straw, spruce branches, fallen leaves or dry compost. In the spring, they are replanted into flowerpots, after cutting off the dry leaves and getting rid of weak and diseased plants.

    Vertical beds are also laid on the ground and covered, and in regions with warm climates they are simply covered with straw mats.

    If the house has a basement or cellar, in which it is possible to maintain a temperature no higher than +3 degrees all winter, pots with plants will winter well in it without special care.

    How to care for berries?

    Ampel strawberries are unpretentious, so caring for them is as simple as possible. It is only important to take into account the peculiarities of its cultivation:

    • Poor tolerance to heat and scorching sun. It is advisable to select a place in partial shade or provide artificial shading.
    • Until the fruiting period begins, the optimal conditions for development are 80% humidity and air temperature 5-7°C.
    • During the fruiting period, optimal conditions are 60% humidity and air temperature 20-25°C.

    Caring for ampel strawberry plantings:

    • Watering. Twice a day - in the mornings and evenings. Do not pour a lot of water - just moisten the soil a little. If strawberries grow in hanging pots, then they are simply placed in a tray of water and kept there for about half an hour. This method allows you to water the plant without allowing it to become waterlogged.
    • Feeding. Plants are fed once every 15-20 days. Fertilizers, previously dissolved in water, are applied during irrigation. The best option is to make a mixture of superphosphate (180 g), boric acid (40 g), potassium permanganate (20 mg), ammonium nitrate (30 g), copper (1 mg) and zinc (2 mg). The ingredients are diluted in 10 liters of water - this solution is enough for 50 plants.
    • Trimming. As soon as the first harvest is harvested, the lower leaves and flowering buds are trimmed. A number of gardeners advise trimming your mustache. And some people believe that it is also necessary to cut off the first flowers to increase the volume of the harvest.

    If ampelous strawberries are grown indoors, then preference is given to complex fertilizers, if in open ground - organic matter.

    If the first place when growing ampelous varieties is to obtain a harvest, and not to be decorative, then the main care procedure is to remove excess rosettes and mustaches. The bush can feed two rosettes; all others are removed as soon as they appear. The maximum number of mustaches is 5. But every gardener can experiment with the number of mustaches, monitoring the development of the plantings.

    Cultivation care

    Landing

    When planting plants in a permanent container or prepared bed, it is recommended to press the soil around the roots with your hands. This is done so that they immediately get contact with the ground. In addition, such a simple manipulation helps remove air cavities.

    After planting, the bushes of ampelous strawberries are immediately watered well. Plant growth stimulants can be added to the water. For example, humates promote root growth and plant survival.

    Important! The first inflorescences must be removed in order to obtain large berries and a bountiful harvest. If strawberries are grown at home, you will have to pollinate them yourself

    To do this, just touch all flower rosettes with a fluffy brush.

    The ampelous type of garden strawberries is suitable for growing on trellises. How to care for large-fruited strawberries (as they are often called)? Is it worth tying it up, how to fertilize, loosen, mulch - this will be discussed further.

    The ampelous type of garden strawberries is suitable for growing on trellises

    It is problematic to attach mature bushes to the trellis, so all that remains is to use young ones. In order for the tendrils to climb onto the trellises, rosettes begin to root in the fall. It is better to grow such plantings in a greenhouse.

    In general, the crop does not need a garter, but for decorative purposes it will look great. It is better to bring ampelous strawberries indoors for the winter. Or you should sprinkle it with soil, and then cover it like a regular strawberry or garden strawberry. In an apartment, the plant can grow and bear fruit all year round with proper care.

    Fertilizer application

    Strawberries are demanding on the level of soil fertility. Therefore, it is not enough to apply fertilizers just before planting. During the growth period, nitrogen is important for it. Two weeks after planting and then every 14 days, regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is also carried out. The approximate rate of fertilizer application is 12 g per adult bush. As a natural fertilizer, you can use wood ash with chicken droppings. For one bush, a dessert spoon of dry droppings and a quarter cup of ash.

    Important! Fertilizing is done only on moist soil. In order not to lose the ovaries, immediately after the end of flowering you should carry out another feeding.

    For example, dilute rotted manure with water in a ratio of 1:8. Add a glass of wood ash to a standard bucket of this composition. Watering is carried out at the rate of half a liter per strawberry bush.

    In order not to lose the ovaries, immediately after the end of flowering, another feeding should be done. For example, dilute rotted manure with water in a ratio of 1:8. Add a glass of wood ash to a standard bucket of this composition. Watering is carried out at the rate of half a liter per strawberry bush.

    Watering with a solution of pigeon droppings works well for the formation of large berries. This feeding is practiced from the time of fruit set until the beginning of their coloring.

    Loosening and mulching

    To incorporate applied fertilizers into the soil, to provide oxygen access to the root system, to preserve moisture in the soil and to control weeds, strawberries, including hanging ones, must be loosened. Near bushes - to a depth of 2-3 cm, so as not to damage the root system. 8-10 cm is allowed between rows.

    After loosening, it is necessary to mulch the bushes. For this you can use:

    • pine nut husks;
    • pine needles;
    • composition of equal parts of peat and fine humus fraction.

    This procedure creates conditions for the supply of nutrients to the roots, ensures good heating and optimal soil moisture.

    Important! The use of plastic film for continuous mulching is detrimental to hanging strawberries, as well as to all its types.

    Chemical treatment

    Spraying strawberries with an insecticide solution is necessary to protect against all types of pests. Recommended in the first ten days of May, but no later than 5-6 days before flowering begins. Chemicals can repel pollinating insects.

    Important! Spraying is carried out on a windless day, when there is no precipitation, on dry leaves and plant buds

    Reproduction

    The newest varieties and hybrids of ampelous strawberries are beardless. Reproduction by division is problematic. The best way to propagate small-fruited varieties is by seeds, while large-fruited varieties are propagated by seedlings from the nursery. Ampel strawberries are propagated in the following ways:

    • Rooting rosettes. One bush allows you to get several new plants in a year. In the first year, 5 tendrils are left at the bush for fruiting, and all the others are planted in nearby pots so that the rosettes take root in them. The pots are placed in a slightly shaded place for 10-12 days. Peduncles are removed from new, rooted bushes. Plants begin to propagate in May; the plants have time to grow before frost sets in. With the onset of frost, the pots are placed in the basement or other dark place and not watered until March. In spring, strawberries are taken out of the basement, but placed in the sun only after 3-4 days. In 1.5 months the strawberries will bloom.
    • Seeds. When buying seeds, keep in mind that they quickly lose their viability. Do not put off sowing them until next year - there will be many times fewer shoots. The seed propagation method is good if you need to get a lot of seedlings at once. Saplings grown from seeds bear fruit the following year. You cannot take seeds from hybrids - grown bushes may lose all maternal characteristics. Procedure: Prepare a light, breathable substrate. The seeds are very small, they cannot be buried in the ground - they only germinate when exposed to light. The best option is peat soil with coconut fiber added. Calcined river sand is poured on top of the substrate. You can put snow on top - it will melt and draw in the seeds, pressing them to the soil.
    • Crops are covered with glass or film. Place in a warm room (+25°C) and ventilate every day, removing the cover for 5-10 minutes.
    • Seeds germinate in 1-3 weeks. When the seeds germinate, place the container in a well-lit place and continue to ventilate.
    • The film/glass is removed when 2 true leaves appear. Water the seedlings with a syringe or pipette so as not to over-moisten the substrate. Excess moisture can provoke a dangerous disease - black leg.
    • In the phase of 2-3 leaves, seedlings are picked. The optimal temperature during this period is 15-16°C.
    • When the seedlings have 5-6 leaves, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

    Reproduction by mustaches is dangerous due to the accumulation of viral diseases in the bushes, but these infections are not transmitted through seeds.

    Features of care

    Most species are characterized by endurance and unpretentiousness. However, regardless of the method of planting and growing, fertilizing, control of humidity levels and temperatures are required.

    In order for strawberries to grow well at home, they need to be placed on the sunniest windows.

    Basic planting methods:

    • flowerpots;
    • lattice;
    • pyramid;
    • vertical bed.

    Regardless of which method is used, planting an ampel variety is not much different from other crops. The soil should be fertile, the location should be southern, or in an open space for constant access to light.

    The soil

    A drainage layer is first laid at the bottom of the pot, and then fertile soil is added on top.

    1. The bottom of the container should be covered with drainage, fertile soil, humus, and peat should be added.
    2. Provide constant watering.
    3. The roots should not bend, but they should be pressed firmly to the ground. In this case, the core remains on top.
    4. For better adaptation, the roots can be dipped in a clay mash.

    Watering

    Young bushes are watered every day, and adults every 3-4 days.

    At first, the seedlings need to be watered every day, preferably twice . After fourteen days, watering is reduced to once every three days. The first flowering is cut off to increase productivity and strengthen the root system. Extra stepsons are removed - no more than five are left. But it is also necessary to feed strawberries generously using mineral mixtures.

    Reproduction

    Reproduces by means of whiskers.

    Rooted rosettes are planted in flowerpots or flowerpots.

    It is transplanted to a new place every four years, since a long time in one place does not bring a decent harvest, the root system weakens, and the formation of rosettes decreases. If the bushes are located in open ground, they must be covered to protect them from freezing. And they also equip arcs or strong frames - cover them with dense agrofibre, roofing felt, lutrisal.

    Pots and flowerpots are brought into a warm room.

    Diseases and pests

    Any variety of strawberry - garden or ampelous - is subject to attacks by the same pests, microbes, viruses, and fungi. Thanks to growing at altitude, ampel strawberries get sick less often. Table 2 shows common diseases and pests of hanging varieties, and measures to combat them.

    table 2

    Pests/diseasesHarm/symptomsHow to fight?
    Powdery mildewThe edges of the leaves curl, the berries become covered with an ashy coating.Cleaning up dried and damaged leaves.
    In the spring, they are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture 3, and after harvesting, the plantings are treated with a 1% solution.

    For prevention, plantings are sprayed in the spring with a solution of sulfaride (per 10 liters - 2 tablespoons).

    Strawberry miteThe fruits of the affected bushes are deformed, the leaves are weakened.In spring - preventive spraying with Nero, Aktelik, Fufanon.
    Plantings are also sprayed with one of these preparations after harvesting and before cold weather.

    If a tick infestation has already occurred, spraying is carried out every 3 weeks. Mandatory - before flowering and before the formation of ovaries.

    NematodesTransparent microscopic worms up to 1 m long. They suck juices from leaves and stems. The foliage wrinkles, the stems shorten, the berries harden. The affected bushes are watered with a bleach solution, then they are pulled out and burned. The remaining bushes are sprayed with a solution of phosphamide or mercaptophos - 2-3 times with an interval of 4-5 days.
    Strawberry weevilHoles appear in the leaves and larvae appear in the buds.The plantings are sprayed with Decis, Iskra, and Karbofos.
    Gray rotA fungal disease that develops at high humidity. Light brown fluffy spots appear. The disease can destroy 90% of the crop. For prevention, plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture 3%. After harvesting the berries, use azotene (20 g per 10 liters of water).
    Late blightWithering and drying of leaves. Dying of roots. After harvesting diseased bushes, disinfect the soil. Treatment with copper preparations - oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture. When signs of disease appear, spray with Ridomil, Horus or other fungicides.

    Interesting Facts

    The unique aroma and taste of strawberries adds a special charm to culinary dishes, baked goods, cosmetics, and perfumes. But strawberries are not only tasty, but also healthy; this berry is a generous source of nutrients. Nutritionists strongly recommend introducing strawberries into your diet.

    Benefits of strawberries for the body:

    • decreased blood pressure;
    • normalization of heart rate;
    • improved muscle tone;
    • stimulating blood circulation;
    • improving the functioning of the digestive tract;
    • improvement of metabolism.

    Some more interesting facts about strawberries:

    • Fresh berries have a disinfectant and wound-healing effect.
    • Strawberry extract is included in lotions, anti-aging creams, soaps, tonics, and other cleansers.

    Thanks to the work of breeders, now even city residents can grow strawberries on their own balconies.

    Reviews

    ★★★★★
    Evgenia I., Tula region. We grow strawberries in a heated greenhouse so that there are early berries.
    In the summer we hang them outside in pots and grow them in flowerpots. Very beautiful strawberries, a lot of berries, delicious. ★★★★★
    Victor P., Murom. It seems to me that there are no ampelous strawberries.
    You can take any remontant variety, plant it in vertical beds so that the mustache hangs down - the same thing will happen. ★★★★★
    Kira. O., Taganrog. I grow the Tuscany variety.
    As a decoration. We planted them by purchasing imported frigo-type seedlings. We put it indoors for the winter. I prefer to grow ordinary varieties for food and sale. Hide

    Add your review

    Ampelous strawberries, without requiring special care from gardeners, can not only feed the whole family with sweet berries, but also create a good mood. The berries, bright as lights, growing on peduncles and tendrils, decorate gardens, courtyards and balconies from spring to late autumn. Possessing high productivity, ampelous varieties are also suitable for growing in greenhouses for the sake of harvest.

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    Bush propagation

    Ampelous strawberries are propagated by rooting tendrils from the mother plant.

    Further reproduction occurs through stepchildren - several new branches can grow from one mustache.

    If you plant such a crop on a closed, warm balcony, and grow tendrils on a pre-prepared frame, you will get a beautiful weaving that will serve as both a decoration and a garden bed. However, the strawberry itself cannot twist itself - you just need to tie up the resulting stems where you want.

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