How to trim tomatoes in a greenhouse for a good harvest

Regularity of pruning

Pruning and sanitary pruning of plants in a greenhouse is carried out at least twice a month. When to pick off the lower leaves, the ripeness of the fruit on the first cluster from the ground will tell you. When the tomatoes turn white, you can safely remove the bottom 2-3 leaves. As the fruits ripen, the bush is exposed higher and higher.

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What leaves are removed from tomatoes during sanitary pruning:

yellowed;
dried out;
with suspicious spots and clutches of insect eggs;
touching the ground;
thickening the bush and lying on the fruits (these leaves are removed partially, half).

When pruning, more than 10% of the green mass is removed. Healthy shoots and leaves are used to protect berry crops from harmful insects. If plants grow in open ground, pruning can be done less frequently. Without insulation, even tall varieties do not grow above 2 meters.

Trimming time

It is worth choosing the right time for stepsoning. It is necessary to form a bush when the first stepsons appear on the seedlings.

For medium-sized varieties, it is enough to leave 2-3 trunks. In other varieties, one trunk is left. Unnecessary shoots are cut off with scissors or pinched.

When replanting, remove yellowed and wilted leaves. This must be done carefully to avoid damaging the stems.

How to pinch the tops of tomatoes

Not everyone knows that you need to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse. The fact is that the tomato directs all its forces to growth in height. If summer lasts all year round, then the ovaries have time to fill. Even in a polycarbonate greenhouse, the crop can be kept from April to October. This time is often enough to form 4-5 bunches of tomatoes. The remaining tomatoes will remain small and green and are unsuitable for consumption.

When a certain number of branches with vegetables are formed on each stem, the growth of the tomato under the film is limited by trimming the crown. Tall and short-growing plants undergo the procedure. There is no need to prepare them for trimming before pinching them. They tolerate top removal well.

On a bush formed from several stems, each crown must be removed. After pinching, all the vital forces of the bush will be directed to the growth of fruits. They will increase in size significantly; you can harvest giant tomatoes if frost is not expected in the near future. The costs of purchasing and maintaining a greenhouse must be recouped. If you are not getting a harvest indoors, then you should become better acquainted with how to pinch tomatoes, trim leaves and shoots.

Types of tomatoes

Indeterminate are tall plants (vines), reaching up to 1.5-2 meters in height.
Determinate ones are medium-sized.
Superdeterminate bushes are classified into a group of low-growing but strong bushes.

Each type has its own method of properly trimming tomatoes.

Stages of crown formation

The crown of a tomato bush is formed in several stages:

Stepsonning.
Pinching the top.
Removing leaves.

A properly formed bush will always give a greater harvest

It is important to carry out all these stages on time, preventing the bush from growing. The greenhouse grower's task is to remove all unnecessary greenery and direct the beneficial substances coming from the tomato stems, leaves and roots directly to the fruit cluster

Stepsoning

Tomatoes can be grown with one or two or three stems. If you decide to leave only the central stem, all lateral ones must be destroyed. If there are several, then it is worth leaving for fruiting those stepsons that are closest to the main cluster with fruits. A bush with a total of no more than three stems and eight brushes is considered ideal.

The stepsons are removed with a sharp knife or simply with your hands. The main thing is not to damage the main stem.

Stepchildren are carried out as the stepsons grow; it is desirable that they are less than 5-8 cm in height, but have already formed a stem. It is necessary to regularly inspect the tomato bushes in the greenhouse (every 10-12 days), cutting off the side stems. It is better to remove stepsons in the morning with a sharp knife or even a fingernail, without damaging the main stem.

You cannot break off the entire stepson, otherwise a new one will grow in its place after a while. To prevent this from happening, you need to leave a piece of the stem - a stump 2-3 mm long.

Pinching the top, or topping

Topping is done for the same reason as pinching. When the bush is already formed and a sufficient number of clusters form fruits, you need to stop the growth of the main stem. Throughout the growing season, it stretches upward, producing more and more new shoots and ovaries.

Topping a tomato bush

As a rule, the procedure for pinching the top falls in the middle or end of July. The top of the stem is cut with a sharp knife at the level of the third or fourth leaf above the ovary; two or three leaves should remain for the full development of the fruit.

Important! Trimming the top will stop unnecessary growth of the bush so that the plant can devote all its strength to ripening the already formed tomatoes.

Removing leaves

When the fruits on the tomatoes in the greenhouse have already set and grown, the process of their ripening begins. From green they first become whitish, then brown, and only then acquire their final color

It is believed that during the period of fruit ripening, leaves no longer play an important role. On the contrary, they weaken the plant, taking away some of the beneficial substances destined for the brushes.

It is especially important to remove the lower leaves, as by this time they turn yellow and curl. Greenhouse growers have differing opinions on this matter.

Some vegetable growers believe that it is necessary to remove all leaves except the very top ones, others argue that leaves are actively involved in the process of photosynthesis, so only diseased leaves and those that shade the fruits are removed.

Scheme: formation of a tomato bush

Leaves must be removed with extreme caution, otherwise gray rot may appear at the cut site. To prevent this from happening, it is better to do the work in the first half of the day in sunny weather.

In this case, by evening the sections will have time to dry. You can go the other way, lubricating each cut with a disinfectant solution to prevent the development of the disease.

For this, 2 tbsp. fluff lime is mixed with 1 tbsp. copper sulfate, and then diluted with water to a liquid slurry. This procedure is required if pruning leaves is done in damp or cloudy weather.

Pruning tomatoes in a greenhouse video

To gain more insight into proper pruning, especially for beginners, it is helpful to watch the video.

When is pruning necessary?

We also recommend reading:

Summer pruning of grapes for beginners

To provide tomato bushes with favorable conditions for development, you need to get rid of leaves that:

are located at the bottom of the stem;
shade the developing fetus;
grow on the northern or shady side of the bush;
located below the flowering racemes.

It is imperative to get rid of the lower leaves, because they hide the base of the stem from direct sunlight. As the plant grows, the lower leaves dry out and fall off, touching the ground. They acquire the function of maintaining the bush. Since they do not have enough strength to support an adult bush, tomatoes are most often “tied up”. After this procedure, they no longer bring benefit to the plant, and they must be plucked. This promotes air flow inside the bush.

Greenhouse tomatoes with ventilation are less fortunate than bushes planted in open ground.

Tie up the tomatoes and free the base of the stem

Don’t be afraid to mercilessly send young, healthy leaves that have grown below the flowering cluster into the compost pit. Experienced summer residents, repeatedly comparing the results after harvesting, came to the conclusion that this procedure has a positive effect on the quality and quantity of ripe tomatoes.

Be sure to cut off leaves that create shade for ripening tomatoes. The fetus needs sunlight to develop. However, there is no need to rush. Small ovaries develop thanks to photosynthesis products formed in greenery. When the fruit grows, it itself can participate in the process of photosynthesis, and it does not need green “umbrellas”.

A blushing tomato should not be in the shade

Since the tomato leaf blade is divided into two mirror-reflected parts, you can only pick one half of it. It is advisable to do this if one half is always in the shade or simply grows on the north side, and the second is actively involved in the process of photosynthesis.

Why trim?

Tomatoes growing in greenhouses are pruned due to the limited enclosed space. Under such conditions, the risk of the development and spread of diseases affecting tomatoes increases and the care of tomato plantings becomes more difficult. Due to insufficient lighting, full photosynthesis is disrupted, affecting the quality of ripening fruits, and in the shade, the tomato ovaries that appear begin to rot. Proper pruning of tomatoes in a greenhouse will allow you to:

accelerate the ripening of vegetables,
minimize damage to plantings by infectious bacterial and fungal diseases,
increase vegetable yields,
provide proper care for tomato bushes.

Pinching involves cutting off excess shoots that form at the junction of the leaf cuttings with the central stem. Usually this procedure begins a couple of weeks after planting the tomato seedlings in the greenhouse, when the plants take root completely and begin to grow.

It is much easier to prune tomato bushes at the initial stage of growth: the plants are still low and it is clearly visible which stepsons should be trimmed and which ones should be left.

Follow the recommendations

It is recommended to plant tomato plants depending on their variety:

Indeterminate varieties and hybrids form 1 stem. Their first tassel appears above the 10th or 11th leaf, the subsequent ones are left every three.
In tall varieties, a bush of 1-3 stems is formed. Otherwise, with a large number of central stems, the bush begins to be overgrown with leaf mass, therefore it is recommended to give preference to forming it into 1 trunk, cutting off the lateral shoots. If you intend to leave the 2nd or 3rd additional stepsons, they are formed under the first brush.
Superdeterminate and determinate early varieties do not require pinching, but can be pinched to give the plant the desired shape.

There are no strict pruning rules that must be followed. It is believed that any plant can easily tolerate the removal of up to three leaves twice a week. Sometimes a bush needs a more global procedure if a dangerous disease develops on it.

Gardeners remove foliage in various ways. But it is best to choose the one that is more convenient and less harmful to tomato crops.

Do not abruptly tear off the foliage, pointing it downward. This way you will leave large wounds on the plant, in which bacteria will immediately begin to grow.

You can break off the leaves by turning them slightly to the side in a clockwise direction, but this scheme is not ideal.

You can break off the leaves by turning them clockwise

To do everything correctly and not injure the plant, we advise you to do the following:

perform the procedure in warm weather;
Prepare sharp scissors and a small container of hydrogen peroxide in advance;
the tool trims excess foliage - this will be more convenient and faster;
the wound is treated with peroxide to protect the plant from disease.

Why prune tomatoes in a greenhouse?

Tomato bushes tend to grow strongly, forming a large amount of foliage and shoots. If you do not intervene in time in the process of bush formation, then the plant will spend all the energy and nutrients on the formation of green mass.

Pruning tomatoes when grown indoors is done for several purposes:

Prevention of the development of diseases and attacks of harmful insects.
The direction of the plant's strength is not on the development of green mass, but on the formation of fruits.
Thinning beds.
Increased illumination, which promotes rapid fruit set and ripening.
Increase in productivity indicators.
Establishing air exchange.
Acceleration of fruit ripening.
Formation of strong bushes.
Promoting normal photosynthesis.
Making it easier to care for bushes.

Did you know? Today there is no consensus on what a tomato is - a vegetable, a berry or a fruit. Thus, in botany it is considered a berry, in technological taxonomy - a vegetable crop. And according to the rules in force in the European Union, it is usually classified as a fruit.

Note that not all greenhouse owners believe that pruning is necessary. In their opinion, the more magnificent the foliage, the richer the harvest. Adherents of the procedure believe that only pruned bushes are capable of producing fruits in large quantities and of excellent quality. Mandatory pruning is carried out in indeterminate varieties, since their nutrients do not have time to reach the shoots on which the fruits are formed, but are largely spent on the lower leaves and stepsons. In some cases, such bushes, in the absence of timely pruning, even stop blooming and bearing fruit.

After pruning, plants receive equal access to light, it is easier for them to “breathe”, they develop better and bear fruit more actively, they are less at risk of disease, in particular late blight.

Removing stepchildren

During the growth process, the very first leaves located below begin to age, come into contact with the surface of the soil, turn yellow and become covered with spots. They are the ones who provoke air stagnation in the greenhouse and the development of diseases. If you think about it, they have fulfilled their function, the plant no longer needs them.

During the growth process, the first leaves that appear begin to age and need to be removed.

Fading foliage often becomes a source of diseases, which in greenhouse conditions quickly affect those around the bush.

The general recommendation for pruning a plant is to form a bush in a greenhouse with one to three stems and the presence of no more than eight flower clusters.

Tomato stem and leaves

A video instruction or the following recommendations will help you master the technique of pinching plants:

The first planting of tomatoes is carried out 12-15 days after the day of planting the seedlings.
The main stem is determined by the formation of the first flower cluster.
Shoots growing in the axils of the leaves of the main stem are removed when they become 5-7 cm long.
To prevent a new stepchild from forming in the same place, leave a “stump” 2-3 cm long.
If you plan to grow tomatoes in 1 stem, remove all new stepsons. When a bush of two or three stems is formed, a stem is left that grows under the very first inflorescence.
Stepchildren of secondary stems also need to be removed.
No more than four flower clusters are left on each stem. The excess ones are cut off so that the plant can save energy for the development and ripening of already established future tomatoes.

Many gardeners are wondering how to prune tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly so as not to harm the developing plant.

This becomes especially relevant in those regions where tomatoes ripen for quite a long time, and cultivation in special greenhouses is aimed at accelerating their growth and development.

Due to some of its natural characteristics, a tomato bush is not able to produce a full harvest without timely human intervention.

Any tomatoes have one unpleasant sign: in the depths of almost all leaves a new stepson can grow. An overgrown stem can produce a secondary stepson. These stems are independent, they are able to bear fruit in the future.

It would seem that what is so harmful about this? But the fact is that quite a lot of similar branches can grow on one bush.

This plant can spend a lot of effort on setting fruit on small stepsons, but it still won’t be able to give them proper nutrition.

Some gardeners begin to leave stepsons with a formed ovary, which will definitely not have time to ripen in time; it can cause more harm than tangible benefit.

Another compelling argument for pruning tomato bushes in greenhouse conditions is that an unpruned bush is much more susceptible to various infections. The risk of late blight infection here is quite high, because this contagious disease actively develops against the background of high humidity.

This is especially important for fruiting clusters. Properly trimming tomatoes in a greenhouse is not just some single simple action, but a whole set of measures, which includes the following steps:

Properly trimming tomatoes in a greenhouse is not just some single simple action, but a whole set of measures, which includes the following steps:

primary stepsoning;
necessary pinching of overgrown tops on tomatoes;
cutting off excess leaves.

Successful cultivation of tomatoes in a greenhouse is possible with the presence of 1-2 stems on a fruiting bush. You can leave only the central powerful stem for fruiting, and all lateral excess should be cut off. A pruned tomato bush with 3 strong stems and 8 fruiting brushes remaining is considered ideal for comfortable fruit ripening.

Many beginning greenhouse growers do not know how much to cut off from a shoot, they pinch off everything, and then after a short time they find new shoots in the same place. Therefore, you should not tear off the entire tomato shoot; you can leave a small stump to avoid its re-growth.

When to trim the tops of tomatoes. How to trim tomatoes: all the details of the procedure

To prevent a greenhouse with tomatoes from turning into a jungle, you need to promptly remove stepsons, leaves and even the tops of tomatoes. I will tell you how and when to carry out such an operation in the article.

Tomatoes, perhaps more than other vegetables, need pruning. Proper formation of the bush will allow you to get the long-awaited harvest of tomatoes, accelerate their ripening and protect against diseases.

I start pruning tomatoes when planting, removing those leaves that touch the ground, this way I protect the plants from the development of fungal spores.

For elongated plants, I practice planting them at an angle and deepening them to the middle of the trunk; in this case, I cut off all the leaves that end up in the ground.

As the tomatoes grow, I continue to trim off the leaves that lean toward the ground.

When shoots - stepsons up to 5 - 7 cm in length - begin to grow in the axils of the leaves, I also remove them.

Stepchildren - tomato shoots, formed between the leaf and the trunk

I remove the stepsons every three days; with proper care they grow quite actively. The shoots of tall tomatoes grow especially quickly.

Stepchildren and leaves are cut off during sunny hours so that the cuts have time to dry and moisture does not get into them, and with it infections. Do not prune tomatoes in cloudy or rainy weather.

How and what is the best way to prune tomatoes

I prune tomatoes using sharp scissors or pruning shears specially designated for this purpose. Before trimming each new bush, I dip the scissors in a solution of dark potassium permanganate.

You can’t pick off the leaves, like the stepsons, of tomatoes, as there is a risk of removing the skin from the stem and damaging it. All operations to remove leaves are carried out with a sharp instrument.

Tomato pruning in detail

The first pruning of tomatoes is to remove the lower leaves; they are cut back to the first flower cluster. This is done so that all the plant’s nutrients can be used to ripen the fruit.

To prevent the lower leaves from intercepting nutrition from the fruit, they are cut off. I do all the pruning of leaves close to the trunk so that there are no “stumps” left.

During the flowering of tomatoes, I also remove double flowers; they produce ugly large fruits, taking up most of the nutrition. However, this is not necessary.

But pruning the stepsons is a necessary procedure. If this is not done, all the plant’s energy will go into the tops and no fruit will form.

The exception is cherry tomatoes, I grow them in two trunks and leave a pair of stepsons on each, removing the excess ones. Cherries form the main crop just on the side shoots, and if the soil is sufficiently nutritious and the plants are placed at a distance, several stepsons can be left.

If the tomatoes sit at a short distance, I also remove some of the upper leaves to open access to the sun and increase ventilation. I also remove those leaves that cover the flower brushes.

There is no need to get carried away with excessive removal of leaves; they supply food to the plant and serve for photosynthesis. Removing most of the foliage is justified only when the fruits are massively ripening, towards the end of the growing season.

By the end of July, I cut off the top of tall tomatoes, leaving one leaf from the top flower cluster. The technique is aimed at stopping the growth of plants and the formation of fruits in flower clusters, as well as at the ripening of established tomatoes. In mid-August I remove the growing point from other tomato varieties.

By the end of August, I cut off most of the leaves, leaving only a couple per plant. This way the tomatoes will ripen and fill faster.

I make sure to remove yellow and diseased leaves to prevent the development of diseases.

In the final stage of fruiting, I cut off all the leaves, I do this in mid-September, and I no longer open the greenhouse to keep the heat there for better ripening of the tomatoes.

Negative consequences of thickening a tomato bush in a greenhouse

Tomatoes have this peculiarity: from the axils of all leaves of a tomato bush, without exception, a stepson grows. Each such stem also grows a secondary stepson, etc. In principle, stepsons are completely full-fledged stems on which a cluster can form and bear fruit.

But this is precisely the main problem. A lot of such branches can grow on each bush. Can you imagine if each stepson begins to set fruit, trying to fulfill its function? The plant will spend all its energy on the development of stepsons and their ovaries, but, unfortunately, will not be able to provide adequate nutrition.

Important! There is no need to feel sorry for the ovaries that have just begun to form on the stepsons, since they still will not have time to ripen and will do more harm than good. Another argument in favor of pruning tomatoes in a greenhouse: a thickened bush is more prone to disease infection

Another argument in favor of pruning tomatoes in a greenhouse: a thickened bush is more prone to infection with diseases.

For example, late blight, the most common and destructive disease for tomatoes, develops in conditions of high humidity. That is why it is recommended to regularly ventilate the greenhouse in which tomatoes grow, and to water the plant exclusively at the root. Many leaves and stepsons do not allow air to circulate freely between the stems.

Access to sunlight to fruits during their ripening period is especially important; well-lit clusters will ripen much faster than those hidden in dense foliage.

Trimming the top of a tomato bush

Moving on to other types of pruning tomato bushes, we cannot fail to mention pruning the tops. The process is quite simple and will not take much time. At the same time, it will provide the plant with enormous benefits - the yield will increase, and the shape of the crown will also change. This process is very important during the period of bush formation, when the problem of intensive growth forces gardeners to install garter stakes so that the plants do not break during the wind due to too much length. You don’t have to put in any special effort, because it’s enough to pinch off the top - everything that is above the second sheet.

Mistakes gardeners make when planting

Incorrectly carried out pinching can create additional problems for the gardener. Let's look at the main mistakes that are made during this procedure:

Erroneously deleting the wrong shoot.
In young plants, it is not always possible to determine which of the shoots is the main one, and the gardener may mistakenly cut off the wrong stem. If you doubt whether he is really a stepson, it is better to wait until he is a little older to be sure.
The blades of scissors should be as sharp as possible.
A blunt instrument can seriously injure the plant, since it is not always possible to cut a branch the first time.
It is advisable to wipe the scissors with a disinfectant solution, at least the same potassium permanganate, during the pinching process after processing each bush. Those who neglect this rule can easily transfer the infection from a diseased bush to other plants, spreading it throughout the greenhouse.
Some people cut off the shoot at the root; as a result, after a while a new shoot grows in the same place. The stump left should not be shorter than 1.5 cm.
Leaving cut shoots inside the greenhouse can cause an outbreak of infection. After the procedure, all branches must be removed.
Beginners can start planting standard tomatoes, but this is wrong. In such varieties, stepsons are able to form, but their further growth does not occur and this does not affect fruiting in any way. It is not customary to plant standard tomatoes.

Anyone who grows tomatoes in a greenhouse needs to know not only what varieties are shaped and how, but also do it in compliance with all the details. Over time, any summer resident will gain the necessary experience and will be able to get by without the help of tips. A beginner simply needs to study all the recommendations so as not to be disappointed in the fruits of his labor and get the long-awaited magnificent harvest of his own tomatoes.

How to properly plant tomatoes

The costs of setting up a greenhouse must be recouped. If its price is several times higher than the cost of the harvested crop, then what is the point of growing anything at all? You can go to the market and buy fresh herbs and vegetables. Therefore, it is advisable to study well and put into practice the technology of growing cultivated plants. You need to know not only how to water and feed correctly, but also how to form tomatoes in a greenhouse. Not only the quantity and quality of the harvest, but also the timing of its ripening depends on this.

Removing stepchildren

Vegetable growers have different opinions regarding the number of stems that form a tomato bush. But they all believe that there should be no more than three of them, and the total number of flower brushes on them should be no more than eight. If you are not familiar with the pinching process, the following instructions will help you:

The stepsons should be removed for the first time approximately two weeks after planting the seedlings. This procedure is repeated at intervals of no more than 10-12 days to prevent the axillary shoots from overgrowing.
The main stem is the one on which the first flower cluster has formed.
All shoots formed in the axils between the main stem and the leaves on it are stepsons. They are removed until they reach a length of 5-8 cm.

Breaking out an axillary shoot

To prevent a new one from appearing in place of the broken stepson, you need to leave a “stump” measuring 2-3 cm.
If the formation of a tomato bush in a greenhouse is carried out in one stem, all stepsons must be removed. If there are two stems, then leave the shoot that is located below the first flower cluster formed and closest to it.
The stepson from which the second stem is formed will also produce side shoots that must be removed in a timely manner.

When forming into two stems, the stepson indicated by the arrow is not removed

The number of flower clusters on each stem should not exceed 3-4; the rest are cut off to allow the already set fruits to grow and ripen.

Tomato bushes in greenhouses must be tied to nearby stakes or trellises installed along the beds.

Pinching the tops

After the required number of flower clusters have formed on each remaining stem, the formation of the tomato in the greenhouse proceeds to the next stage - pinching the tops. This is done in order to stop the growth of plants in height and prevent the appearance of new ovaries. They still won’t have time to grow and ripen, so there’s no point in wasting nutrients on them.

This is what a fully formed bush should look like

In the middle zone, topping occurs in mid-to-late July. The tops are removed like this: two or three leaves are left above each flower cluster, and the rest is mercilessly cut off.

Trimming

There is no consensus among tomato growers about trimming leaves. Some believe that after the fruits are formed, all of them should be removed, leaving only two or three at the top, in order to provide better lighting and ventilation, and reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Others are confident that this approach leads to disturbances in the process of nutrition and photosynthesis, and they cut off only the lower yellowed and withering leaves.

The tomatoes in this photo have all the leaves below the fruit removed and the top ones left

It's up to you to decide what to do best. Experiment by removing leaves from one bed and leaving them in another and see the results.

Leaf trimming

Today, more and more people prefer to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. How to properly prune tomatoes in a greenhouse? After all, this is also an important procedure that should not be ignored.

Pruning of leaves is carried out not only to eliminate thickening of the bush. The leaves should be removed at the moment when all the tomatoes have grown on the first bunch and they begin to ripen. Remove those leaves that are lower, because they only take away the strength of the plant.

How to properly trim tomato leaves in a greenhouse? Let's figure it out. Most often, by the time the first fruits begin to ripen, the lower leaves turn yellow. When they come into contact with the ground, they can cause the development of many diseases, including late blight. Remember that tomatoes are prone to developing this disease. Therefore, cut foliage must be immediately removed from the greenhouse.

So, when to trim the leaves of tomatoes in a greenhouse? Like tassels, they should be removed before lunch in clear weather.

It is important that the cut dries well. It is necessary to monitor the growth of tomato

The leaves are removed higher up the stem, under each infused brush. You can remove 2-3 leaves at a time, no more.

Those leaves that are located in the middle of the bush are also removed. They are weakly involved in photosynthesis. Be sure to trim off diseased leaves.

Features and technology of pruning

The pruning technology depends on the type and variety of tomato. All tomatoes are divided into indeterminate (tall), semi-determinate (medium-growing) and determinate (short). As a rule, the first 2 species are grown in a greenhouse. You can find out what species the variety you are growing belongs to from the information on the seed package.

Important! Not all tomato varieties require pruning. This procedure is not required for plants with low-growing bushes and standard specimens.

Super early variety

Super-early tall and medium-growing tomatoes are pruned using standard technology - all the lower leaves and all the stepsons are removed, leaving only one to form the second stem, and the tops are pinched.

Note that among tomatoes with this ripening period, there are varieties that do not require shaping and pinching. Before planting this or that varietal specimen, you need to ask whether this procedure is required for them or not.

Tall (indeterminate) tomato

The technology for pruning tall bushes is as follows:

Gradually cut off all the leaves located below the first flower cluster, leaving the stem bare to a height of 30 cm.
As soon as subsequent clusters begin to bloom, you should remove the leaves and underneath them - 1-2 per week.
When stepsons appear, leave the strongest one and remove the rest.
In August it is necessary to pinch off all the tops. This will stop the bushes from growing.

Semi-determinate varieties and hybrids

The technology for pruning semi-determinate varieties will differ only slightly from tall bushes. The differences are that these tomatoes need to be formed into 2 stems.

To do this you need:

Leave the stepson placed at the bottom of the first flower brush. This will be the second stem.
Remove all other side shoots growing in the leaf axils.
If the main stem does not stop growing but continues to grow, the second stem can be removed over time.

Types of pinching

There are several types of pinching, which differ in the amount left during the removal of excess shoots and branches. Each of these types has its own characteristics, which will be discussed in more detail below.

In one stem

The method of forming into one stem is excellent for bushes grown in a greenhouse. In this case, there will be no extra branches thickening the plants, which will provide them with good ventilation and sufficient light.

Immediately after the stepson begins to grow under the first formed brush, it should be cut off. At the same time, the lower leaf plates are also torn off from the bushes, which only hinder them at this stage of development. Next, carry out a systematic inspection of the bushes and cut off all emerging side shoots, while flowering brushes must be left behind.

Thanks to this method of forming a bush, about 50 brushes can grow on it, on which fruits will form. This method also allows you to extend the fruiting period.

In two stems

Forming a bush into two stems is also well suited for greenhouse tomatoes. In this case, you need to leave only one most powerful stepson, which grew under the first flowering brush. Those side shoots, as well as leaf plates that are located below this stepson, must be torn off. In the future, systematically inspect the bushes and cut off all excess shoots.

Three stems

Bushes formed into three stems are most suitable for growing in open ground, but not for a greenhouse. To form a plant into three stems, you need to cut off all the side shoots except two. The first stepson should be under the first flowering brush, and the second one should be above it. Next, the tomatoes are regularly inspected and excess shoots are removed.

Why are tomatoes formed?

Tomato bushes are formed mainly to increase yield. Sometimes the goal is to grow one record-breakingly large tomato or to obtain varietal seeds from the first tomato to ripen on the bush. Also, bushes with tomatoes can play a purely decorative role. These varieties include those that grow in the house in flower pots, for example, Chinese multi-colored tomato.

Formation using pinching and pruning is not necessary only in the case when the tomato bushes belong to the standard varieties of super-determined species. They are genetically programmed to stop stem growth after a few clusters of flowers have formed. They usually have few leaves and a strong trunk without shoots, on which bunches of tomatoes ripen. However, the height may vary. There are low-growing varieties for open ground and greenhouses, and tall varieties for greenhouses.

The advantage of determinate types of tomatoes is that they do not require pinching, and low-growing varieties do not need to be tied up or surrounded by a trellis. However, all these species are low-yielding due to stunted growth.

Other varieties of tomatoes, classified as high-yielding, produce a large number of leaves, shoots, and clusters of flowers. Without pinching and pruning, their green mass prevails over the mass of fruits. They require more space and shade neighboring plants. They grow uncontrollably if their development is left to chance. Too high planting density and dense bushes interfere with the ripening of tomatoes and reduce yields.

To increase the yield, after planting, you need to wait until two clusters of flowers bloom on the main trunks of tomatoes in open ground, and three clusters of flowers in a greenhouse or hothouse. After this, cut off the lower leaves and pinch the shoot buds at the internodes so that at least 20 centimeters of the bush below is bare.

Pinching out excess tomato shoots at the internodes

You should cut it off, leaving a “stump” of about 1, but not more than 2 centimeters, which will then dry out and fall off. In this place of the trunk the shoots will no longer grow. This will provide better ventilation, it will be more convenient to water without wetting the leaves, and rot and disease due to fungi or viruses will not develop from wet soil. In greenhouses, where the humidity is always higher than in open beds, this action must be done.

Mistakes gardeners make when planting

Sometimes, when removing shoots from tomato bushes growing in a greenhouse, gardeners make serious mistakes that can cause the plants to become infected with infectious diseases or yield loss. Common mistakes:

Untimely stepsoning. Excess side shoots must be removed systematically and in a timely manner. If you carry out such a procedure once a month or even less often, then it will be of little use. The fact is that long and thick stepsons will already have time to take away a significant part of the bush’s strength.
Pruning not the stepsons, but the fruit branches. Often, inexperienced gardeners confuse these shoots. Carefully inspect the location where the shoot grows. If it does not grow from the leaf axil, but directly from the stem, then it is a fruiting branch and does not need to be cut off.
Dirty tools. Experienced gardeners recommend removing stepchildren by hand. But if you use scissors for this, then be sure to disinfect them after trimming each bush. To do this, it is recommended to wipe them with any disinfectant solution, for example, a solution of potassium manganese. If this is not done, then from one diseased bush the infection can be spread to all bushes. If you tear off unnecessary shoots with your fingers, then make sure that tomato juice does not get on them, since it can also spread the infection.
Applying too much fertilizer. If the bush has already been formed, but stepsons are still actively growing in its lower part, this means that too much fertilizer is being added to the soil. In order to correct the situation, stop feeding for a while or adjust their regimen and dosage.

Which leaves need to be pruned?

It is necessary to trim leaves that:

have contact with the soil;
contact with other bushes;
are located below the first flower cluster;
block the light from other parts of the plant;
shade other bushes;
yellowed and aged;
affected by disease;
damaged;
are located under the peduncles.

In addition to the leaves, stepsons are also removed - side shoots growing from the leaf axils. They do not play any role for tomato bushes; instead, they consume nutrients that are so necessary for the formation of fruits. Stepchildren are removed when they reach a length of 5–6 cm.

Do I need to pick off the leaves of tomatoes?..

Which leaves should be removed and when?

A tomato leaf is a full-fledged plant organ, like a root or stem; it is responsible for nutrition and respiration. Therefore, at first glance, the idea of removing leaves seems somewhat blasphemous - why mutilate the plant? The answer to the question is not at all so clear - it often happens that there is really no need to pick off the leaves. A healthy, green and well-lit leaf is a friend and helper.

But everything has its time, its age. Old tomato leaves often turn yellow with age, become covered with various spots, weaken, and such leaves serve as the initial cozy “home” for various fungal diseases. Therefore, old, yellowing and spotted leaves should be removed first.

Following them, it is worthwhile to lighten the bushes from time to time - cut out the leaves that face the north side, or are located in the depths of the bush, or in the shadow of other bushes. Such a shaded leaf will still not give us much benefit in terms of photosynthesis, and by removing excess leaves we will improve the overall ventilation of the planting, especially if we are talking about a greenhouse.

Another type of leaves that need to be removed are brush growths. It happens that after the flower cluster the growth of the shoot does not end, but continues - the stem, leaves, and again flowers grow. Many people are even happy about this turn, but in fact, if all the tomatoes are stuck in the brush, then it is better to remove this “addition” so that the brush develops fully. At the same time, if the main brush turns out to be a bit empty, then you can leave a couple of tomatoes to continue.

How much and when to cut?

It is usually recommended to remove 2-3 bottom leaves 2 times a week, but this is too general a “rule”. You need to look at the growth rate of the plant as a whole; sometimes you have to remove 5-6 leaves at a time, and this has never caused any particular harm to the tomatoes.

The main rule that should be followed is that if all the berries have not yet set in the cluster, then most of the leaves above the cluster should be intact. And vice versa - if all the tomatoes in the brush have already started, then BELOW this brush you can safely remove all the leaves.

Towards the end of July-beginning of August in the middle zone in the greenhouse, they usually begin to pinch off the tops of tomatoes. That is, it is assumed that all further brushes will still not have time to form a crop. So, after pinching like this, when in principle we don’t need to build up the vegetative mass, we can remove all the leaves except the top 3-4. This is a good disease prevention, although it looks a little wild.

Always leave 1-2 sheets above the very top brush so as not to disturb the flow of sap.

Important. The leaves of tomatoes break off easily if you do it correctly - by pressing the petiole at the base upward, along the stem. If you pull a leaf down, there will often be a long strip of skin from the stem behind the torn leaf.

You should not break leaves in cool, cloudy weather, or in the afternoon. Do this procedure in the morning on a sunny day so that the wound dries within a day.

If you pull a leaf down, there is often a long strip of skin from the stem trailing behind the torn leaf. You should not break leaves in cool, cloudy weather, or in the afternoon. Do this procedure in the morning on a sunny day so that the wound dries out within a day.

tomato-pomidor.com

What leaves to cut from greenhouse tomatoes

First of all, old browned leaves are removed. They no longer perform either protective or nutritional functions. Old dead leaves are an excellent place for the development of fungal diseases that can destroy the entire crop. The fungus develops on the underside of the leaf and is not visible to the naked eye.

Many gardeners insist on removing the lower leaves. Some time after planting the seedlings, the lower leaves drop and fall to the ground. For untied tomatoes, they serve as a support. Greenhouse plants are tied up, so they do not need natural support. Remove any greenery at the bottom of the stem to expose it to direct sunlight. Under fallen leaves, the stem develops poorly because it does not participate in the process of photosynthesis.

Remove lower leaves

Trimming living green leaves after fruit set is a topic of endless discussion among gardeners. Some believe that it is necessary to get rid of the tops after the green fruits are set on the clusters. Others are confident that such a blasphemous technique leads to disruption of the processes of photosynthesis and nutrition. The only way to make the right decision for your tomato plantation is to conduct an experiment by cutting the greens from the bushes of one bed, and compare the harvest with the fruits removed from a lush green bush.

Formation of bushes

In order for the crop to bear fruit abundantly and for a long time, it is initially necessary to form the bush correctly, that is, it is planted. Unnecessary stems are removed at the stage of planting seedlings in the soil, which helps the plant not waste energy forcing green mass.

It is removed gradually, throughout the entire growing season of the crop. When fruits have set on the first stem, the leaves from the lower tier are immediately removed. Pruning is completed during topping, when the tops are pinched. The procedure takes place at the beginning of August. After it, the plant’s growth stops, the last fruits are formed correctly and have time to fully ripen.

Rules for pruning tomatoes

Problems with tomato growth and a meager harvest can be the consequences of disease or improper planting, as well as insufficient attention to the pruning process. It is necessary to follow a number of simple rules in order for the plant to demonstrate high rates of growth and productivity.

There are no strict instructions that must be carefully followed when carrying out this procedure. It is worth focusing on the fact that the plant will calmly tolerate the removal of up to three leaves twice every 7 days. More global pruning is needed only if there is a dangerous disease developing on the shrub.

Each gardener decides how often to trim leaves independently, focusing on the speed of seedling formation. Yellowed foliage from below is removed once every 2 weeks. The main mass is cut off after small fruits begin to develop. Withered leaves as they appear. If tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, then they need to be trimmed earlier;
In an open garden bed, it is best to start pruning in the morning. During the day, the injured area dries out, heals, and various diseases do not have time to infect the plant. The procedure should not be carried out in the evening hours or in rainy weather;
in greenhouse conditions, you can remove the green mass at any time, only on this day you need to cancel ventilating the room;
Do not remove more than 3 leaves in one pruning;
after the tomatoes are collected from the first tassels, they are cut to the second and then to the third ovary, where the fruits are formed. Above thirds, the plant should not be defoliated, because the bush may die due to insufficient green mass;
At the last stage, the top of the tomato is trimmed. One ovary is selected, a small amount of greenery must be left on it, and the rest removed.

By performing the necessary procedures for caring for tomatoes and following the recommendations given in the article, you can speed up the ripening of fruits, get rid of unnecessary stress on the plants, and reduce the likelihood of diseases. Compliance with all the rules for pruning tomatoes in open ground and in a greenhouse will eliminate many problems with growing and allow you to reap an excellent harvest.

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Proper watering of tomatoes

When growing tomatoes, it is important to properly water throughout the growing season. This is due to the fact that tomatoes are very sensitive to a lack of moisture in the soil and, if watered incorrectly, significantly reduce the yield.

Tomatoes growing in open ground should only be watered with warm water. The period of flowering and fruit set in tomatoes is critical, so it is necessary to increase the rate and frequency of watering.

You can water tomatoes in different ways - in furrows, using drip irrigation and sprinkling. I used these methods for several years and settled on one method.

Drip irrigation technology

Sprinkling

This method of irrigation has the only advantage: the water is evenly distributed over the surface, since irrigation rates can be adjusted. However, this kind of watering always made my tomatoes sick, this was due to the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the soil. Therefore, this method of watering tomatoes in open ground did not suit me.

Sprinkler technology

Drip irrigation

Thanks to modern technologies, caring for plants becomes easier every year. Thanks to drip irrigation, moisture is distributed evenly in the soil among the tomatoes. Water immediately flows to the root system. The only disadvantage of this irrigation method is the price of the equipment. After all, not every gardener can afford to buy such an irrigation system.

Along the furrows

Therefore, I adhere to the old method that our grandmothers watered. When watering along furrows, water is delivered directly to the root system, which improves the growth and development of plants.

Furrow irrigation technology

With such watering, diseases practically do not spread, since water does not reach the aboveground part of the tomatoes. The only disadvantage of this method is the laboriousness of the process. But the result in the form of a bountiful harvest is worth it.

Secrets of caring for tomatoes in open ground

Planting care includes: loosening the soil, pest and disease control, pinching, pinching, hilling, frost protection, etc. Mulching is used for better temperature and water-air conditions for tomato plantings, especially on heavy soils, which later warm up in the spring and lose a lot of moisture in summer. This happens as a result of the formation of a soil crust, which is not very good. To prevent a crust from forming, it is necessary to systematically loosen and moisten the soil.

Suitable for mulching: sawdust, straw, peat, humus, film. The sawdust is not placed fresh.

Mulching tomatoes with sawdust

About frosts

From frost you can use:

burlap;
paper caps;
I'm horning;
smoke fires.

Saving tomatoes from frost

If the frosts are prolonged, then the plants must be heavily hilled, and after they leave, freed from the ground.

If the plant is well rooted, then when the upper part of the seedling freezes, side shoots quickly appear and, despite the frost, you can get a good harvest.

To reduce the likelihood of plants being damaged by frost, tapes of tall-stemmed plants (curtains), such as beans, peas, corn, sunflowers, are used, placing them across the direction of cold winds, in the middle of the area. Also in the summer, the curtains will pay off by protecting the plantings from dry winds for better conservation of moisture in the soil.

Tall plants

About weeds

Weeds have a very strong and negative effect on the development of tomato, the damage from which is comparable to the damage from drought, diseases and pests, since 1 weed produces more than twenty thousand seeds that are viable for twenty years.

To effectively control weeds, it is necessary to apply a set of measures:

mulching the soil with white or black film;
hand weeding;
organization of mini-crop rotation, which involves not only the use of plants that successfully compete with weeds and suppress them (corn, potatoes, peas, etc.), but also a set of soil cultivation techniques that restrain its clogging.

Mulching with film

More about watering

Tomatoes should be watered along the furrows or at the roots, avoiding water getting on the fruits and leaves. If there is insufficient rainfall, watering is done once a week with cold water, soaking the soil to a depth of 30 cm.

At the first fruit set, water more abundantly and regularly.

During fruit growth, the need for watering increases. At this time, you should not take long breaks, as the fruits may crack if you start watering them suddenly after a drought.

With a lack of water, tomatoes become not only rough and flabby, but also bitter.

After watering, it is necessary to hill up the stem and loosen the soil so that additional roots are formed and plant nutrition is enhanced.

In order not to damage the root system, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 15 centimeters, and three weeks after planting to about 7 centimeters.

About tying

Plants need to be tied up if they have already taken root and started growing.

Tying tomatoes

About fertilizing

During the growing season, three feedings are done.

Two weeks after planting, the first one is carried out (fifteen grams of superphosphate and ten grams of ammonium nitrate per square meter).
At the beginning of fruit formation, a second one is made (fifteen grams of potassium sulfate and ten grams of ammonium nitrate per square meter).

It is better to feed during watering. The solution is applied to the grooves at a distance of twenty centimeters from the plant. When watering is completed, the row spacing is loosened and the holes are sealed.

It is not bad to use organic fertilizers for fertilizing:

bird droppings (one in ten);

slurry (one to five);

mullein (one to five).

Mineral fertilizer is applied depending on the condition of the plants. If there is stunting or pale coloration, you should feed them with mullein.

If the plant fattens, that is, increased growth of stems and leaves occurs, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded.

Important points:

If flowers fall off and the leaves on the inside become purple , then the plant needs phosphorus . When there is an excess of it, the leaves turn yellow .
If the plants begin to dry out and the fruits become variegated in color , this indicates a lack of potassium , and if dull spots appear on the leaves, this indicates an excess of potassium .
The leaves curl - superphosphate is excluded , and the dosage of nitric and potassium fertilizers is increased to thirty grams per bucket of water .

Tomatoes fatten

About protection

After planting the seedlings, approximately two weeks later, the plants must be treated with a one percent solution of Bordeaux acid, protecting them from late blight.

Manifestations of late blight

Against viral, fungal, and bacterial diseases, it would be good to treat with copper oxychloride, dithane cupromix, and dithane M-45. 5 such treatments are done. They stop making them two weeks before the fruit appears. At a later date, the plants are sprayed with garlic infusion (one hundred grams of garlic or three hundred grams of its waste per bucket of water is infused for several days).

About shaping, pinching and pinching

When growing tomatoes, great attention must be paid to the formation of plants if you want to get a return from them in the form of high yields. It is necessary to timely and regularly carry out pinching (regulating the number of fruits, clusters and shoots), removing some leaves, pinching (adjusting the habit and height of plants).

The first time, stepsoning should be carried out 15-20 days after planting, when the stepsons are no longer than seven centimeters. In the future, the plant will be planted systematically. The stepsons are broken out with a lateral movement, using the index finger and thumb. In order not to injure or infect the plant, under no circumstances should the stepson be pulled out. Stepchildren are usually planted early in the morning; at this time the plants contain a lot of moisture and break off easily. Stepchildren that have outgrown are best cut off with a sharp knife or scissors, leaving a stump of one centimeter.

Growing tomatoes

In low-growing, early-ripening varieties that are grown in greenhouses and in open ground, the plants form one, usually two, sometimes three stems. One stem is left if you want a very early harvest. This removes all the side shoots that form in the axil of each leaf. The formation of a second or third stem is used when cultivation occurs in greenhouses and under film covers.

With the two-stem form, the side shoots are removed, all without exception, not counting those growing under the flower brush.
With three stems, a stepson is left under the first flower cluster and one more, the most developed one.

In addition to pinching tall varieties, pinching is used (removing the growing point on the remaining shoots). This is done in order to limit excessive vegetative growth and branching and allows rational use of the plant’s plastic substance and ensures good yield in the early stages. Held in early August. Two leaves are left above the inflorescences with set fruits and the growth point of the shoot is removed. Inflorescences in the phase of beginning flowering and bud formation are also removed.

The first harvest of tomatoes in open ground begins to be harvested as early as the twentieth of July. Tomatoes are harvested every five days. It is undesirable to delay harvesting, as this will reduce the quality of the fruit and its quantity. The harvest ends with the first autumn frosts.

Growing seedlings

In our climatic conditions, tomatoes are grown in seedlings.

When growing tomatoes, the seedless method is also used - sowing seeds directly into the ground. But it is only recommended in warm regions, requires additional work and may not produce the expected yield.

Seeding rates

Production of tomato seedlings lasts 50-60 days. It takes about 200-300 g of seeds per 1 hectare or 3-5 g per hundred square meters when growing seedlings. About 200 tomato seedlings grow from 1 g.

Tomato seeds are usually sown in boxes in the following quantities:

3 g per box;
3-4 seeds per pot with a diameter of 8-10 cm;
2 seeds per tray chamber, consisting of 54 flower pots per tray.

Collection and storage of tomato seeds

Seeds can be collected, but this only applies to varieties with established characteristics, that is, not hybrids. Seeds of some varieties can be collected annually. Tomato fruits are harvested as they ripen or once when ripe.

It is not recommended to keep seeds on the bush for too long, because they can germinate inside the fruit. Tomatoes from healthy bushes are collected and crushed. The pulp and seeds obtained in this way are placed in a saucepan and left to ferment for several days at room temperature.

Fermentation of tomato seeds can be facilitated by using the enzyme Pektopol P. Once a white coating (a fungus that protects the seeds from the attack of other pathogenic fungi) appears on the surface, remove the mold and place the seeds on a sieve, rinse under running water. The selected seeds are laid out in a dry, warm place to dry.

Peeled and dried tomato seeds should be placed in boxes or paper bags and stored in dry, ventilated areas during the winter, protected from mice, insects and light. Well-preserved seeds retain the ability to germinate for 5-7 years after collection.

Preparing seeds and soil

Before sowing, tomato seeds need to be treated against diseases and pests, and the soil must be steamed 2-3 weeks before sowing.

Good soil for tomatoes includes:

1/3 humus,
1/3 fertile soil,
1/3 peat or perlite.

Sowing dates and sowing

The sowing date depends on the variety, the date of planting the seedlings in open ground and the planned date of harvesting the tomatoes. It should be remembered that from sowing seeds to obtaining seedlings is about 6 weeks.

Tomato seeds are sown in spring - from late February to May, and for later harvest even in July. When planning to sow seeds for seedlings, from March 15 to April 1, they are sown in pots at a distance of 10x3 cm to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.

In warmer regions of the country, you can also sow directly into the ground at the turn of April and May. Sowing in a greenhouse usually occurs at the turn of April-May and is carried out in a greenhouse or tunnel, where the temperature should be 18-20 °C.

Seeds are sown in the ground and watered with water. Containers prepared in this way can be covered with perforated film or a glass plate until the plants germinate. Tomato seeds germinate very easily. At 20-25 °C they begin to germinate in about 3-6 days. Seeds are sown in small sowing containers; peat pots are popular.

It is important to reduce the temperature after germination and maintain it at 15-18 °C.

After tomato seedlings emerge, the recommended temperature is 18-20 °C. Tomato seeds do not germinate at soil temperatures below 8 °C. In addition to the correct temperature, it is important to ensure the correct soil moisture.

Picking

After the appearance of the first true leaf, the plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm, filled with soil of the same composition as for sowing. Seeds can be sown directly into pots to reduce the hassle of picking, but this does not guarantee better plant development and high yields.

Seedlings can also be planted in a tunnel with heated soil. The distance between plants in this case is 10x10 cm.

When sowing seeds directly into the tunnel, observe the following planting scheme:

between rows – 10 cm,
in rows - 3 cm.

The sowing date for tomatoes is late April-early May. Direct seeding into a tunnel is usually used on large farms.

Hardening

Tomato seedlings need to be hardened off before planting by limiting watering and using intensive ventilation for about 7 days. A good seedling that can be planted should, depending on the variety, have a height of 15-30 cm and 5-8 leaves.

Planting seedlings in the ground

If the seedlings are purchased, you should choose them correctly. The diagram below shows signs of how to distinguish healthy tomato seedlings from diseased, low-quality ones.

Before planting tomato seedlings in the ground, you need to water it generously; this will help you carefully remove the plant from the pot without damaging the roots. Planting in the ground is carried out in the second half of May, after the last spring frosts. The soil needs to be prepared as described above. The plant is placed in the soil so that the first leaves are located above the surface and do not touch the ground. After planting in the ground, tomatoes should be watered generously, then sprinkled with dry soil and carefully compacted.

The best conditions for planting seedlings are cloudy, but not rainy, weather. If there are only sunny days, it is better to plant seedlings in the evening.

Tomatoes are usually planted in rows. Planting density depends on the tomato variety and soil type:

for early varieties, an interval of 80 × 40-50 cm is used;
for late varieties 80-100×50-80 cm or 80×80 cm;
for low varieties - 40-60 cm by 30-50 cm, with the distance between rows being 40 cm, a path is made on every fifth row;
for tall varieties, the distances are made a little larger - it is about 50 cm between plants in a row and 1 m between rows;
dwarf varieties are planted more densely.

After selecting a suitable distance and marking the landing sites, sticks about 1.5 m high are driven into the ground and holes are prepared. Tomatoes are planted a little deeper than they were growing in pots, so that the first leaves are just above the surface of the soil. The soil around the bushes is raked, a small depression is created around the stems and watered abundantly. If the site is too exposed to wind, individual plants can be further protected from it by using covers, such as thin boards.

Curved and elongated tomato seedlings are planted in an inclined position and deeper. A stem buried 5-7.5 cm in the ground will produce roots.

Mistakes when growing tomatoes in open ground

1. One of the mistakes made when growing tomatoes in open ground is transplanting them into temporary shelter ahead of time . Buds blooming on fruit trees serve as a kind of guide that tomato seedlings can be planted under temporary shelter, in a greenhouse or under a film outside. If planted earlier, the stems will develop a purple tint, indicating that the seedlings are getting too cold. The consequence of this will be a slowdown in growth and development, which will resume only when normal nutrition from the roots is established and the stem begins to return to a greenish tint.

2. The second, common mistake is planting tomato seedlings on the same level with the soil . It is much better for the development of the plant if it is planted 15 - 20 cm higher. I observed this picture with some neighbors: tomatoes were planted in ridges, like potatoes, and hilled up. They said that this is what my parents taught me all my life and that I follow their advice. We must pay tribute to this method of planting - tomatoes always grow with a good harvest. Now this is the second year I have been planting in this way, it is very convenient and practical for watering, and during the rainy season the roots of the plants do not “flood”, they create a kind of drainage grooves. I read in one source that such drainage grooves into which water flows can somehow protect tomatoes from late blight.

3. Separately, I would like to say about watering, which some gardeners use, flooding the beds with tomatoes over the entire area, without making grooves or grooves . Such watering “cuts off oxygen” to the root system and negatively affects the supply of nutrition to that part of the plant that is located above the ground. Beneficial microorganisms, aerobic bacteria, which provide the plant with nutrients, may die when “flooded.” As a result, airtight soil may be replaced by microorganisms that are pathogenic.

4. Fertilizing tomatoes with mullein infusion more than 2-3 times per season is . They also don’t like it if you water it frequently with urea, much less put it in a hole when planting it. Allowed in the initial phase of plant development and growth, if necessary, only once; the leaves can only be sprinkled by diluting 0.5 tbsp in 5 liters of water. urea.

5. To avoid damage to the harvest and the tomatoes do not begin to “fatten”, do not make the soil for planting them too oily , adding organic fertilizers in excess of the norm, and starting to put large quantities of cow or bird manure into the hole. It is optimal to put 1 tbsp in the hole when planting. superphosphate and half a glass of wood ash. No more than 1–2 cups of manure is added that has been rotted for 3–4 years.

The need for pruning tomatoes

In hot weather, the temperature in the greenhouse reaches a high level. The crop is light-loving, and thickening of the bush leads to a decrease in yield, increased humidity and, as a result, the development of fungal diseases. How to prune tomatoes in a greenhouse so as not to harm the plant and increase the fruit yield.

Sheet cutting

You can remove excessive shading by trimming some of the tomato leaves. Humidity and shade create favorable conditions for the emergence and development of fungi and bacteria. Therefore, it is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it later and lose part of the harvest. What sheets and when can you cut without harm?
Pruning tomatoes in a greenhouse is important to create the necessary moisture and ventilation in the lower part of the bush near the soil. Therefore, you should not allow stepchildren to grow in this area.
It is necessary to remove the leaf in contact with the soil. The stem of the plant must be clean and dry so as not to cause it to rot.
With further growth of the bush, all leaves are removed up to the first cluster with fruits. The distance to the leaves should be at least 30 cm from the ground.
Leaves that shade neighboring tomatoes or are in the shade should be trimmed. In this case, you don’t have to cut the entire sheet, but only part of it.
Usually they form a bush into one stem, removing all side shoots without exception.
The leaves and all shoots on the fruiting cluster are also removed.
If signs of late blight appear on the bush, the entire leaf is cut off, which allows the plant to grow tomatoes.
Be sure to remove all damaged, dry and yellowed leaves so that the plant does not waste nutrition to maintain them.
Inspect the tomato plantation more often so as not to miss the onset of diseases in the form of blackening or spotting. Having discovered such branches, remove them without sparing to stop the development of the disease and immediately treat the plantings with the appropriate preparation.

how to trim tomatoes in a greenhouse

Why do you need to prune a plant?

We have already found out that pruning creates natural ventilation and serves as a prevention against tomato diseases.

Pruning redistributes nutrition in tomatoes, causing the fruits to ripen larger and faster.

The lighting of the bush increases, and the fruits ripen faster.

Planting a plant

Why is stepsoning carried out? Removing stepsons leads to early ripening of fruits, prolongation of fruiting period, stimulation of photosynthesis with access of light to all parts of the bush.

The stepsons need to be removed so that a small stump remains. In this case, the plant recovers better, tightening and drying the wound. If you do not leave the stump, the main stem may be damaged. The stepsons are pruned after the first fruit cluster appears. Pruning is done with clean, disinfected garden shears. The first pinching is carried out after tying the plant to the support. Stepchildren are removed when their height is 5-7 cm.

Advice from experienced gardeners

They recommend forming tall varieties of tomatoes into one stem, and medium and low-growing ones into 2-3 stems, leaving the strongest stepsons.
It is better to carry out pruning on a sunny day, so that the wounds have time to heal and dry, which prevents the occurrence of gray rot, from which the plants can quickly wither. If the day is cloudy, then you need to treat the wound with a solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkle with activated carbon.
The pruning process is carried out every 6-8 days. You cannot cut several leaves from a bush at once, so as not to weaken it. During this period, the shoot will take shape and cannot be confused with a fruiting cluster.
It is better to treat pruning areas with disinfectants, and the tool is treated after each plant so as not to infect neighboring bushes.
After each fruiting cluster blooms, all the leaves below it are cut off.

We hope you understand that pruning tomatoes in a greenhouse affects the quality and quantity of the tomato harvest, and any mistake in crop farming technology will reduce it. The knowledge gained will help ensure good care of tomatoes in the greenhouse and get a bountiful and tasty harvest.

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