Greensboro peach: variety description, planting and caring for a fruit tree

Peach Greensboro: description and distinctive features

A mature Greensboro tree has a tall, dense, broad foliage crown with rich green leaf color. The tips of the leaves are slightly curved downwards. The crown size is average.

The tree begins to bear fruit already in the second or third year after planting in a permanent place of growth. From one plant you get a harvest of up to 67 kg of tasty and juicy peaches.

Peach Greensboro - photo

Greensboro buds are also large in size and egg-shaped. The kidneys are usually located in groups. The tree blooms very beautifully with pink flowers and is a worthy decoration of any garden during this period.

The variety is suitable for cultivation even on soils that are unsuitable for it, as it tolerates grafting well to other crops. Among them are cherry plum, apricot, and almond.

Greensboro peaches are a creamy green color. There is a burgundy blush

. The fruit size is average. Weight ranges from 100 to 120 g. The shape of ripe fruits is oval. The sides are slightly flattened.

Peaches have medium firm skin. Inside there is creamy green flesh, juicy and sweet in taste, with a small amount of sourness. The fruit pit is easily separated from the pulp.

Drought and frost hardiness of Greensboro peach

The Greensboro peach crop can withstand temperatures down to 22 degrees below 0

. The variety has already shown excellent survival and adaptability. There are such cases in practice when absolute recovery occurred after freezing and death of the entire part of the plant located above the ground, exposed to temperatures of -35 degrees.

Attention!

When there is a constant subzero temperature, the plant tolerates winter better than in cases of changing weather conditions, including the appearance of thaws. However, the variety is so strong that it continues to bear fruit even after a rapid rise in temperature.

Greensboro peach can be classified as a frost-resistant variety of fruit tree.

It tolerates drought normally if it lasts a short period of time. However, the yield decreases, the leaves fall off, and therefore the plant has difficulties in wintering.

Does the Greensboro peach variety need pollinators?

The Greensboro peach is a self-fertile variety that does not require the presence of other pollinating varieties.

. Therefore, you can make the same type of planting. Placing other varieties nearby will only increase the yield.

Peach Greensboro - video

Greensboro peach variety yield and fruiting

The most productive year is the 10th from the planting period. To date, the highest yield of an adult tree has been recorded - 67 kg.

Ripening time depends on climate conditions. For example, in the south the fruits ripen earlier, in July. In chernozem regions - in early August.

Experts especially highlight the taste and characteristics of the Greensboro peach, giving it 4.8 points on a 5-point scale.

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Area of ​​application of fruits

Greensboro is classified as a table or dessert variety.

. Best suited for individual household plots and consumption in unprocessed form. Difficulties arise with transportation over long distances, since the fruits are easily damaged and acquire a dark shade. If there is a need for transportation, Greensboro peaches are harvested at technical ripeness, which is approximately 3-4 days before full ripening. Be sure to place it in a package, placing soft, hygroscopic material between the fruits.

Self-fertile variety Greensboro: history and characteristics

The variety was bred by US breeders in 1891. In Russia, it began to be cultivated in Crimea, where it underwent variety testing. In 1947, the Greensboro peach was included in the State Register and zoned for the North Caucasus region. From Crimea, this rather successful variety first spread across the southern regions, then gradually migrated to the central regions, where it is successfully grown in our time. True, to date he has been excluded from the State Register for some reason.

Greensboro has a tall tree with a spreading crown. This year's growth is moderate, the shoots are dark crimson in color and have short internodes. The variety is early ripening, its fruits ripen in late July - early August (depending on the region). It blooms profusely and amicably, large pale pink flowers are located on short stalks. Due to its complete self-fertility, it does not require the presence of pollinators. But, as is usually the case, the presence of pollinators helps to increase the yield and quality of the fruit. The productivity of the variety is very high. It reaches its peak by the age of ten - at this age an average of 60 kg per tree is collected. And the gardener will see the first fruits already in the third (sometimes even the second) year after planting the seedling.

Greensboro has a tall tree with a spreading crown

Greensboro's winter hardiness is quite high - it tolerates frosts down to -22 °C without damage. At higher frosts, the above-ground part dies, but in the spring the roots give rise to new shoots, due to which the plant recovers and after a few years begins to bear fruit again. Worse than stable frosts, the tree tolerates sharp temperature fluctuations in winter. Peach also tolerates droughts, but reacts to them with a decrease in yield and winter hardiness. It has relative immunity to clasterosporia and powdery mildew, but is highly susceptible to leaf curl.

Large (average weight 120 g) fruits are oval in shape with a round, slightly blunt apex and a characteristic pit. The color of the fruit is greenish-cream with a raspberry or burgundy blush, which occupies up to 25% of the surface. The skin is thick, rough, hard pubescent. The pulp is juicy with a pleasant sweet and sour taste and a characteristic aroma. The stone is medium, difficult to separate. Tasting taste rating: 4.8 points on a five-point scale. The fruits are mainly intended for consumption locally, as they are extremely poorly stored and transported.

The color of the Greensboro peach fruit is greenish-cream with a raspberry or burgundy blush, which occupies up to 25% of the surface.

Advantages of the variety:

• precocity;
• productivity;
• winter hardiness;
• restorative capacity;
• excellent taste of fruits;
• self-fertility.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Over the entire existence of Greensboro, the main advantages and disadvantages of the variety have been identified.

Advantages:

1. rapid fruit ripening;
2. excellent resistance to low temperatures;
3. high taste quality of Greensboro peaches;
4. high immunity to diseases characteristic of the culture.

Flaws:

• different number of fruits on the tree, different weights;
• difficulties in transportation;
• limited areas for cultivation.

The Greensboro variety is intended for cultivation in the south of the country, as well as in the middle zone. Ideal conditions: cool, warm summers and moderate winters.

Greensboro peach planting location and timing

A suitable place for planting is an open, well-lit area, free from drafts. The water in the chosen location should not stagnate. The most suitable slope is in the south. The plant is not picky about soil. You can add humus to very heavy soil, and mineral fertilizers to too light soil.

Recommended Planting Dates for Greensboro Peach Trees

Planting dates for Greensboro are:

• In the southern part, September or the first days of October are suitable for planting Greensboro seedlings. In spring, plants tolerate heat very poorly. Sunburn may occur.
• The best time to plant Greensboro peach trees in the midlands is either fall or spring. The most important criterion is that the soil is warmed up to 15 degrees above 0.
• In the north, it is recommended to plant Greensboro peach trees only in the spring, when the soil temperature is comfortable for the plant. In areas where there are very harsh winters and insufficient snow, peaches must be covered for the winter.

Selection of seedlings

It is recommended to buy Greensboro peach seedlings in specialized departments.

When purchasing, you should carefully inspect the plant for damage.

Pay attention to the following indicators:

• height (from 1 to 1.5 meters);
• age (not older than 2 years);
• trunk thickness (about 2 cm).

The bark should be smooth and free of spots, and the root system should be free of damage and signs of disease or pest damage.

Preparing the site for planting Greensboro peach

Experienced gardeners recommend preparing a hole for planting peach tree seedlings six months before the planned planting

. The size of the planting hole is 40 x 40 cm. It is necessary to maintain a distance between seedlings of at least 3 meters. Peach culture does not like thickening. A larger distance of 4 to 5 meters is left between the rows.

Step-by-Step Process for Planting Greensboro Peach Trees

The process of planting Greensboro seedlings occurs in several stages:

• A stake is placed in the center of the planting hole, which will become a support for the young plant, protecting it from breakage in the event of strong winds or from damage by animals.
• The bottom of the pit is lined with drainage. Crushed stone or ordinary river sand will do. The layer thickness is at least 10 cm.
• A mound of fertile soil is made around the support.
• The seedling is placed in the hole in such a way that the support casts a shadow on the bush during sunlight during the daytime.
• The root system is carefully distributed over the earthen mound, after which a small amount of soil is sprinkled on top.
• After planting, the Greensboro peach seedling is immediately watered with warm water. One plant requires approximately 10 liters of water. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is completely filled with soil.

As for the presence of pollinator trees, they are optional
, since Greensboro is a self-fertile variety. Incorporating other peach varieties may increase yield slightly.

Peach growing technology

History of the Greensboro peach variety

The Greensboro peach comes from the USA, where it was born in 1891 as a result of open pollination of the Connet peach with a mixture of pollen from different varieties. In our country, it was first tested in Crimea, where it was accepted for variety testing by the Nikitsky Botanical Garden. In 1937–1938 many seedlings were placed for comprehensive study both in the Crimea and in the Krasnodar Territory, Georgia, Moldova, Uzbekistan, etc.

In 1947, Greensboro was included in the State Register and recommended for the North Caucasus region. At the same time, it spread to other southern regions and republics, in particular in the Black Sea region, Central Asia and Transcaucasia. In the last years of the existence of the USSR, it was considered the standard variety in almost all southern republics and regions. Gradually, the variety migrated to the center of the country, where it is still successfully grown in many personal gardens and summer cottages. This variety of peach is currently not listed in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation.

Greensboro Peach Care

Greensboro is an easy-to-care variety. But to get a good harvest, you still need to make a little effort. Basic care for a Greensboro peach consists of watering, pruning, crown formation, and fertilizing.

. In addition, you need to know how to properly prepare plants for wintering.

How to properly water peach trees

The Greensboro variety requires systematic watering. For proper rooting, the soil is moistened so that water penetrates to a depth inside the soil of 25 to 45 cm, covering the entire root system.

How to plant a peach correctly

In the first 30 days after planting, young peach plants are watered a couple of times every 7 days. Each tree requires at least 10 liters of water. When there is a drought and no rain is expected, water more often - up to 3 times a week. Increase the amount of water from 10 to 15 - 20 liters. An adult plant requires deep moisture every 10 days. Water is poured into a circle near the trunk.

Attention!

When the entire crop has been harvested, it is not recommended to water any more. This will reduce unnecessary growth of new branches and prepare the tree for winter, increasing its level of resistance to low temperatures.

Greensboro peach: pruning and crown shaping

Each year, the Greensboro peach is pruned to form a crown

. Dried branches and damaged shoots must be removed. Additionally, the crown is thinned out and shaped based on its condition.

In the first year of planting, the main shoot is pruned, leaving 65 cm above the soil surface.

. In summer, new branches are formed. Of these, select from 4 to 5 shoots located no closer than 15 cm from each other. It is they who will subsequently perform the function of the skeleton.

Peach pruning

The tops of the shoots are removed. Over the next 3 years, shoots are shortened by a third

. Between branches of the 2nd order leave a distance of 35 - 40 cm from each other. Subsequent pruning is carried out depending on the location of the buds. If the buds are close together, severe pruning is done. When placing buds only at the edges, only damaged, dry branches and those without fruits are removed.

Important!

For pruning use: pruning shears, scissors. The tool must be well sharpened in order to prune correctly without causing harm to the plant. It is advisable to disinfect instruments before use. For example, a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. The sections are treated with garden varnish.

Peach Greensboro: fertilizing

Greensboro peach feeding is carried out according to a seasonal schedule, three times per season, in the following order:

• Fertilizer is applied for the first time when the buds are swelling. Use either urea or nitrophoska. Take 35 grams of the selected fertilizer per tree.
• The second time, fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium is applied to the peach trees. Feeding time is mid-summer.
• The third and last time during the season, organic matter is added in the fall, preferably in September. Manure is used as fertilizer. For young plants, rotted manure is used so as not to burn the delicate root system. For adults, you can use fresh.

Important!

When feeding Greensboro peach organically, it is worthwhile to mulch at the same time. Peat and compost are used as materials. This will also prepare the crop for the winter.

How and with what to fertilize fruit trees correctly

Preparing Greensboro Peach Trees for Winter

Here's how to prepare Greensboro for winter:

• carefully dig up the soil around the tree trunk (this can help eliminate parasites if they are present);
• in September they do pruning (see above for how to prune);
• in the period from late October to early November, watering is gradually reduced;
• branches and trunk are treated with pest repellents;
• whitewash the lower part of the trunk, including skeletal branches;
• the circumference of the trunk is insulated with straw;
• the covering material is carefully fixed, covering the top with either paper or burlap.

Rules for planting peach

A seedling of a well-chosen variety appropriate to the climate must be properly rooted. The further growth, development, and fruiting of the Greensboro peach largely depends on this procedure. Timing plays an important role in planting.

Recommended timing

For the tender, heat-loving Greensboro peach, the following planting dates are recommended in different regions:

1. In the south - in autumn (September or early October). When planting in spring, young plants suffer from heat and sunburn.
2. In the middle zone - in autumn or spring, depending on the weather. The main criterion for planting is soil warmed to +15 °C.
3. Closer to the north - only in the spring, when the soil and air warm up to comfortable temperatures.

In regions with cold winters and a lack of snow, Greensboro peaches are covered for the winter.

Choosing a suitable location

To plant a heat-loving variety, choose a sunny place protected from the winds, preferably without stagnant water. The best choice would be a southern slope.

The Greensboro variety grows on different types of soil, but does not tolerate acidic or saline soils. Heavy soils can be enriched with humus, mature compost with complex fertilizers. Add a little humus or mineral fertilizers to light soil.

Selection and preparation of planting material

It is advisable to purchase peach seedlings from special nurseries. This way, purchased trees will be guaranteed to correspond to the declared varietal qualities.

Signs of a good Greensboro seedling:

• height – from 1 to 1.5 m;
• age – up to 2 years;
• trunk girth about 2 cm;
• smooth bark without stains or damage;
• healthy, moist roots, without signs of pests.

For spring planting, Greensboro variety material is shortened to 80 cm, side shoots are cut off by a third. At night, place the root system in a solution with a growth stimulator (for example, Kornevin). In the morning the seedling is ready.

Autumn planting in Greensboro involves shortening the roots; it is advisable not to prune the trunk and branches until spring. On varietal greens with leaves, they are torn off before planting. Until the peach roots begin to fully function, the load should be reduced as much as possible.

Landing algorithm

The Greensboro peach planting site is prepared in advance. The hole is dug six months before the estimated date of work. A 40x40 cm recess is first prepared. The final size will depend on the root system of the seedling.

When the crown is freely formed, there should not be less than 3 m between plants. Peach does not tolerate thickening. Row spacing is kept from 4 to 5 m wide. Closer planting of Greensboro is only permissible with heavy pruning and shaping.

Planting a peach step by step:

1. A support (stake, pole) is installed in the center of the planting hole.
2. The bottom is covered with drainage (crushed stone, sand) at least 10 cm thick.
3. A mound of fertile substrate is built around the support.
4. The seedling is placed in the center of the hole so that the support shades the young plant from the daytime sun.
5. The peach roots are carefully distributed over a mound of earth, sprinkled with a small layer of soil and lightly squeezed.
6. Water the plant with a bucket of cold water and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed.
7. At this stage, you can fill the hole completely with soil.

The scion neck is left 3 cm above ground level if the Greensboro peach is to be grown in tree form. In the bush version, the grafting site is buried in the ground.

A shaft of earth is formed along the perimeter of the seat. Pour 2 buckets of water under each peach. It is advisable to immediately mulch the soil, but do not lay the moisture-saving layer close to the trunk.

Diseases and pests of peach trees

Greensboro has good immunity.

However, there are pests and diseases that are most common on the Greensboro peach:

• Leaf curl
  leads to damage to shoots and the appearance of purple leaves. This plant does not bear fruit. To eliminate the disease, treatment with preparations containing copper (Chorus, Hom, Skor) is required.

• Moniliosis
  – a fungal disease that results in damage to branches, flowers, and leaves. Brown spots appear on the affected parts of plants, and fruits become deformed. The affected parts are immediately eliminated. Before flowering, the tree is treated with Horus, and after the growing season, Topaz is used.

• Their pests are dangerous aphid
  , feeding on the sap of the plant, after which the plant begins to dry out. When there are few pests, they can be dealt with manually by simply crushing them. When their quantity is significant, chemicals are used.

• Oriental codling moth
  - another pest. There are young shoots and small ovaries. At the same time, it is a carrier of diseases caused by fungi. They need to be eliminated immediately. The drugs Rovikurt and Benzophosphate are suitable.

• The fruit moth
  attacks the buds and shoots, causing the plant to lose leaves and reduce productivity. Chlorophos and Karbofos help in the fight.

Peach in the Middle Zone

Copied an article by Saiganova Lada (Saratov)

The most effective way is to grow peach in a covered form - like climbing roses or grapes. Moreover, the type of fruiting of peach is very similar to that of grapes - peach bears fruit on last year's shoots. This placement of fruit buds is very convenient for a covering crop - there is no point in hiding perennial wood under the snow, as is done with slate apple trees. It is enough in the fall to bend the shoots that have grown over the summer to the ground. It is clear that it will not be possible to treat shoots grown on an ordinary tree in this way. In addition, the trunk is the most vulnerable part of the tree (it is damaged either by frost or by hares), and a bush without a standard, even damaged in winter, will easily recover in the same summer.

Therefore, a young peach should be immediately formed into a bush with a very low stem or without one at all. The easiest way to achieve this is to plant the purchased seedling almost lying down, then in the fall it will be easy to hide it under the snow. One has only to take into account that the horizontal position of the conductor inhibits growth, so it makes sense to bend the top of the seedling upward for the summer, tying it to a peg.

If the roots of the seedling are weak, then all the growth will be on this crown. (In truth, before planting, it would be good to cut a seedling with weak roots in half, or even two-thirds - the crown will grow back later, but without radical pruning the tree may not take root - the roots will not be able to cope with feeding a large number of leaves..) Stronger ones the roots (or, if the stem of the seedling has been damaged: frozen, dried out, etc., or after severe pruning) will allow the peach to grow several vertical shoots from the base of the trunk. It is from these that you can later form a bush that will “unbend” for the winter under the snow. You just need to make sure that these are not shoots of the rootstock, which is not difficult - you can easily distinguish the long narrow leaves of a peach from the rounded apricot or plum on which it is usually grafted.

So, we planted it, fed it and watered it in the summer, not forgetting to stop watering in mid-August so that the regrown shoots had time to prepare for winter. In the fall, we bend everything that has grown and secure it so that it does not stick out from under the snow. Like any stone fruit crop, peach can suffer from damping off of the buds and bark at the base of the trunk. To prevent this from happening, the cover of the bush should be dry, and the branches should not lie on the ground, where melt water will flow under the snow. The same applies to roses - they often die not from frost, but from water under the thick March snow.

Next spring you can do two things. Classically: cut off all growth, leaving 2-3 buds and leave the bush to overgrow, giving the remaining branches a vertical position. Tricky: horizontally spread last year's branches, which will force the peach to grow strong young shoots in the middle of the bush, and, at the same time, will allow maintaining last year's growth - the work of “extra” leaves will strengthen the plant. In the fall we again do the same as in the first year.

In spring, we cut off the strongest shoots (half the bush) short, leaving 2-4 buds - they should give strong growth and set flower buds. Pruning can be replaced by bending these branches to a horizontal state - new shoots will appear not near the cut, but at the bend of the branch. We allow the rest to grow, strengthening the bush - their turn to be pruned is in a year. Branches left without pruning should not be brought closer to a vertical position in the spring so that they do not absorb the main growth force of the bush.

The subsequent shaping of the peach comes down to annually obtaining increments of 40-60 cm in length, on which the harvest will be formed. At the same time, fruit-bearing branches are cut short or bent to provoke the growth of new strong shoots. When forming a bush, you should not thicken it too much - all branches should be illuminated by the sun. Peach pruning (as well as other stone fruits) is carried out only in the spring (April) to avoid serious freezing.

In addition, the winter hardiness of peach depends on the application of fertilizers: the less nitrogen, the better. Potash fertilizing (ash or potassium sulfate in summer) will be beneficial. The lack of watering also makes the tree more frost-resistant, although it retards its growth. Thick mulch (20 centimeters) from rotting weeds in the tree trunk circle will not only insulate the roots in winter, but also protect them from the heat in summer, and will also allow you to practically do without watering - rainwater will suffice. You just need to make sure that the mulch does not fall against the trunk - it must be free so that the bark does not trample.

Normalizing fruiting (reducing the number of fruits by spring pruning, removing weak flower buds and part of the ovaries) also allows the peach to better prepare for winter. Trees overloaded with harvest do not winter well.

Harvest and storage

Harvesting is done manually in two to three stages. Since the variety is not stored for a long time and it is problematic to transport it over long distances, this is taken into account when harvesting. Fruits intended for transportation are harvested when they are almost ripe.

Peaches should be firm, fresh and undamaged. The fruits are placed in boxes, placing soft material between them or wrapping them in newsprint.

Storage requires a room with high humidity and zero temperature.