What grapes can be grown in the Leningrad region

Features of cultivation

The cultivation of grapevines in the Leningrad region does not differ from cultivation in other regions. To get a good harvest, the bushes need to be cared for and also not to forget about shelter for the winter.

Recommendations for choosing deadlines

To grow healthy bushes, you need to decide on the timing of planting seedlings. The grapes are planted in the spring, immediately after warm weather sets in. The soil should warm up to a depth of 15-20 cm.

You can also plant the vine in the summer, at any time. At this time, seedlings with a closed root system are suitable for planting. They also practice autumn planting of seedlings. But to prevent the vine from freezing in winter, it is hilled up and well covered.

Site preparation

You need to prepare the area for planting in advance. The soil is dug up to a depth of 10 cm to prevent the appearance of insects in the spring. Be sure to pull out all the weeds. Then it is mixed with rotted manure.

How to prepare the soil and hole correctly

Before planting a seedling in the soil, you need to prepare a hole. If the soil is clay, the grapes may not grow well. In order for the bush to develop normally, the soil is mixed with mineral fertilizers, organic matter, wood ash, and sand is poured into the bottom. After which you can start planting the seedling.

Another way to prepare a hole is to mix the soil with manure and dig a hole. Fill the bottom with drainage and lay thick cardboard on top of it. Cover it with soil. This method is suitable for planting in black soil.

Formative pruning

Formative pruning is carried out the next year after planting the seedling. They leave the healthiest and strongest branch - the shoulder. The rest is all cut off. The next year, 3 large stems are left. The rest is cut off. After another year, 4 large buds are left on each of the three stems. Everything else is deleted. By the fourth year the vine will be formed. In the future, only sanitary and thinning pruning is carried out.

Preparing for winter

In the Leningrad region, special attention should be paid to preparing the vineyard for winter. Bushes spud

The height of the piles should not be less than 10 cm. Then the vine can be pressed to the ground and covered with spruce branches. The main thing is that the layer of cover is dense. If it is not possible to press the plant to the soil, cover the lower part of the trunk as high as possible.

How to plant young cuttings correctly

Growing grapes mainly involves growing cuttings. After the small branches of the bush produce leaves and their root system gets stronger, you can plant the planting material in the ground yourself. However, you can get a good harvest of berries if the plantings are grown and cared for in stages:

• the planting hole should be 75-80 centimeters in both length and width;
• a drainage layer must be laid on the bottom of the recess; ordinary crushed stone or crushed brick can be used as drainage;
• the drainage is sprinkled with earth, rotted manure, organic and potash fertilizers are added to it. Everything is thoroughly watered with settled water;
• as soon as the water is saturated, a depression is made in the center of the planting hole into which the root system of the cutting is carefully placed;
• The top layer of soil is compacted, and a small support for the planting is installed. As a support, you can use a metal product in the form of reinforcement or wire;
• Growing will not be effective if the cuttings are planted too close to each other, so a distance of about one meter should be maintained between planting holes.

It is best to plant cuttings in open ground in the spring, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently; if this activity is carried out in the fall, then the plants must be protected from frost and winds, and the shelter must be made strong and reliable.

How to properly care?

There are some nuances in caring for grapes in the northern regions.

Formative pruning is the main element of care. It starts from the second year of the vine’s life. Carry out in the fall throughout the life of the bush. After harvesting, almost the entire above-ground part is cut out. First of all, remove all fruit-bearing shoots. The vine that has not ripened is also cut out. She won't survive the winter anyway. The main thing is to start forming the bush correctly. The winegrowers of the Leningrad region are supporters of fan pruning. Lay 4 sleeves.

When pruning in autumn, both methods are used:

• with a replacement knot;
• without a bit of substitution.

For fruiting shoots, the most powerful branches with mature wood are selected and shortened by 5-6 buds.

After pruning, a small above-ground part remains; covering it for the winter is not difficult. Plastic arcs are installed, cellophane is stretched over them. It turns out to be a tunnel, the ends of which are open. The shelter protects not from frost, but from thaws, which, due to the specific climate, often occur in January.

During the season, the vine is watered 4 to 5 times. In wet seasons, the volume of irrigation water is reduced. Starting from the 3rd year of life, they begin to add:

• ash;
• dolomite flour;
• humus;
• mineral fertilizers.

Plant care

Half of plant care is regular watering if there is insufficient rainfall. This includes the application of fertilizers (minerals, ash and dolomite, humus), as well as preventive treatments against diseases and pests.

And the second half of care is pruning, which allows you to form a bush and ensure good fruiting. Pruning should be done annually (and sometimes even twice a year, but this is necessary) after the harvest.

At this time, most of the plant is pruned, in particular all the shoots from which the harvest is harvested. In the Leningrad region, most winegrowers prefer fan pruning, laying four “sleeves”.

After the pruning is completed, the remaining above-ground part is very small, so covering it for the winter will not be difficult.

The best varieties of indoor grapes

Several varieties of grapes specially adapted for this are grown at home:

1. The most popular is cissus rhombifolia. It is a herbaceous type of vine. It has trifoliate leaves, diamond-shaped and dark green in color. Each leaflet is characterized by a serrated edge. The stems and petioles of this variety of grapes have slight pubescence and small tendrils, with the help of which the vine clings to the support. If pollination is carried out correctly, small flowers form on the grapes, which then form small berries that have a pleasant taste. Of all the varieties of indoor grapes, rhombifolia cissus is the most unpretentious.
2. Antarctic cissus. The leaves of this herbaceous vine are dark green and ovate in shape. They are arranged alternately and do not exceed 10 cm in length. All stems and tendrils are densely pubescent with brown hairs. Leaves with serrated edges. Green flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences.
3. Cissus variegated. One of the most demanding species in terms of growing conditions. The leaves with a serrated edge are arranged alternately. The color of the surface of the leaves is reddish-green, the lower part is purple. The stems and petioles have the same shade.

A variety of grapes such as tetrastigma is rarely grown at home, since it has heavy vines and is more suitable for planting in greenhouses.

Landing rules

We already know the best varieties. Now we will figure out how to grow grapes correctly so that they produce a constant and abundant harvest. For one bush you need an area two meters long and half a meter wide. It is necessary to plant grapes on a hill in a sunny place. For example, choose an area near a wall so that, having warmed up during the day, it can transfer its heat to the bush at night.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, then it is better to “raise” the area. Just don’t dig down to the clay layer, otherwise the seedlings may die. The area where it is planned to plant grapes must first be fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers. Another important point: grapes do not like acidic soil.

Considering the peculiarities of the soil in the Leningrad region, a little lime needs to be added to the planting hole.

How to care for grapes in the Leningrad region, features of care, timing

Caring for grapes involves timely pruning, watering and fertilizing. Let's look at how to prune grapes in the summer in the Leningrad region and what fertilizers the berries prefer.

Trimming

Pruning grapes increases yield, stimulates the growth of new shoots, and protects against diseases and pests. There are several types of grape pruning:

• short - gardeners trim all shoots so that no more than 4 eyes remain on each;
• medium - up to 8 eyes are left on each;
• long - up to 50 eyes.

One of the popular methods is mixed pruning. With it, gardeners combine long and short, the plant regularly renews its shoots. Uncovered varieties are pruned in the summer, covered varieties in the fall. It is recommended to make cuts so that they look into the plant and not out. Cropped arrows must be free of visual damage.

Watering and fertilizing

The number of waterings depends on the amount of precipitation and temperature. If the summer turns out to be humid and hot, then 3-4 waterings during the ripening period are sufficient. If the weather is dry - from 5 to 7 waterings. It is recommended to water the bushes in the evening or in the morning with water at room temperature. If you use cold water from a spring or well, the plant will receive heat shock, which will negatively affect the yield. The watering depth should be at least 40 cm. With increased growth of green branches, moisture is reduced.

Three times during the summer, summer residents apply root fertilizers. Installed drip irrigation systems or drainage pipes help with this. If there are no structures, a ditch 25 cm deep at a distance of 0.5 m from the bush will do. The first feeding consists of urea and superphosphate in a ratio of 90:60. They are separately dissolved in water and then mixed. The second feeding consists of 100 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of potassium sulfate - minerals stimulate fruit development. The third feeding is based on the preparations “Kemira” or “Novofert”.

Among foliar fertilizers, a solution of wood ash, potassium permanganate and iodine is popular. Spraying protects shrubs from powdery mildew and gray rot, mildew and phylloxera. Natural fungicides strengthen the immunity of grapes.

Features of growing in a greenhouse

The main rule for growing grapes in a greenhouse is to regularly ventilate it with an open door or window. To protect from the hot sun, special darkened nets are used. Throughout the summer, the plant is watered no more than once a week, otherwise the grapes will get sick. Along with watering, fertilizers are applied - potassium, nitrogen or complex mineral fertilizers.

If the variety is not self-fertile, then the grapes are pollinated by hand - the pollen is shaken off, collected in the palm of the hand and transferred to the flowers. 2-3 times during the summer, greenhouse grapes are pruned, weak and dry shoots and shoots are removed.

Reproduction

It is customary to propagate grapes in two ways - layering and cuttings.

In the first case, you need to select a healthy strong branch, remove all the foliage and stepsons from it, and then bend it to the ground and cover it with soil in the middle (the top of the head should remain unburied). Next spring, a new bush will begin to grow in this place, which will retain all the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

For the first three years, work on its formation, and then you can separate it from the first plant.

When propagating by cuttings, you need to prepare them in the fall and put them in water. When roots appear, the cuttings are planted in pre-prepared pots, where they will remain until spring. Then you can transplant them into the ground.

Grafting and planting of seedlings

The most convenient and cheapest way to grow grapes is to grow from cuttings.

The best time to purchase and plant young grape cuttings is May (including in the middle zone). The seedlings must be strong and have healthy green leaves (7 or more pieces).

Beginning gardeners would be wise to choose seedlings only from specialized, proven farms, so as not to doubt the merits and characteristics of the grapes they are purchasing.

You can root grape seedlings yourself. Mix equal doses of earth, sawdust, sand and humus. Make seedling pots from plastic bottles. Cut holes in them to allow water to drain out. Next, take the cuttings and cut them at the top and bottom. Then we make small scratches on the bark with a regular needle. We place the resulting cuttings in water for about a week. Then we transfer it to a root formation stimulator for several hours. We place the resulting cuttings immersed in plain water in the sun. After 2 weeks, the upper bud will swell and the young shoot will begin to grow. Roots will appear in a month. Drainage is placed in the prepared pots, soil is placed on top of it, a cutting is placed, and covered with soil until a green shoot appears. Water it and go back to the sun. Subsequently, watering is carried out in small doses 3 times a week. Planting in open ground - at a temperature of 2-5 ° C, hidden from direct sunlight.

Caring for grapes in the spring includes not only planting, but also grafting of grapes. Before grafting, the prepared cuttings are soaked for 2 days in water in which a growth stimulator is mixed. The work is carried out (required!) with a sharp, clean knife blade. Everything needs to be done quickly so as not to leave the incision sites open for a long time. In addition, they should be watered with water, and the bud of the cuttings should be moistened in a honey solution. The vaccination site is bandaged with clean cloth for 2 weeks.

And, of course, in spring and summer it is necessary to loosen and weed the soil under your vineyard.

And be sure to do everything with soul, and the vineyard will generously reward you with a rich harvest of delicious berries.

Propagation of grapes by layering and cuttings

What are Chubuki

The cuttings are freed from tendrils and leaves and collected in bunches. Next, they are dipped in water and soaked for 24 hours, and then treated for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or 3% copper sulfate. Next, the chibouks are carefully wiped with a cloth and dried on paper. In order for the planting material to successfully overwinter, it is wrapped in a bag or film and then tied tightly.

At the end of winter, the cuttings begin to germinate. To do this, they are soaked in drinking water for three days.

After the roots appear, the cuttings can be planted in a pot for growing.

Breeding by layering is suitable for amateur gardeners. In October, grape vines, cleared of foliage, are buried 25 cm deep so that the upper part is above the ground. Already in the spring, new shoots are formed, suitable for growing a new bush.

For layering in the fall, take a healthy cane, break out all the shoots, and remove all the leaves. The middle part of the shoot is sprinkled with fertile soil, leaving the crown above the ground. The growth of grape shoots begins the following spring. From the cuttings they begin to form a new bush. It is separated from the mother bush after 3 years.

Grape varieties for the northwest. Selecting grapes for the northwest

Suitable varieties for growing plants in the northwest are:

1. Melengr and Aleshenkin.
2. Delight and Muromets.
3. Platovsky and Augustovsky.
4. Violet and Moscow.
5. Muscat and Laura.
6. Crystal and Motherland.
7. Korinka and Early Russian.

Grape varieties are grown in open ground, with a moderate amount of sun and protection from draft winds. It is necessary to protect planting material from fierce winds blowing from the northwest. To feed the vineyard, make a hole in the root system. Fertilizer material is poured into it.

Platovsky grapes are suitable for the climatic conditions of the northwest

Before planting a seedling, the bottom of the vineyard is covered with fertilizers. This amount of feeding is enough for four years. The frequency of planting determines how the root system will develop and whether each area will have enough light and heat.

The growing material on the site should be placed like this. so that it is not filled with excessive amounts of water. Excessive watering of the plant leads to rotting of the planting material. High-quality pruning of a grape bush leads to the correct formation of a bush of planting material. The frequency of pruning is three seasons. It is not done only in winter because the planting material at this time is insulated from the effects of frost in the winter season.

Pruning is done not in the first month of spring, but when the final warming occurs. As the soil temperature rises to fifteen degrees, you can begin pruning the grape bush. You should also clean the planting material before sap flow begins. After the beginning of the growing season, the cut sites will take a long time to heal and will become a kind of “sores” for the plant.

In summer and early autumn, the grape harvest begins and ripens. During this period, the grapes are not pruned. You should inspect the planting material for possible diseases.

Each pruning of grapes in the northwest should be accompanied by preventive treatment of the above-ground part of the plant.

Grapes are susceptible to many diseases, so prevention is a necessary measure for caring for grapes in any climatic region, even in the north-west.

Grape varieties grown in the northwest require the same care as other varieties in other climate regions.

Taking care of planting material allows you to grow grapes regardless of climatic conditions. Feeding, watering, pruning and processing the plant allow you to grow grape varieties even in unacceptable conditions.

Grapes in the north

In recent years, grapes have made a decisive move northward. Now you won’t surprise anyone with stories about rich harvests of this crop in the Moscow region, not to mention the more southern regions of Russia. The most important condition for success is the correct choice of variety. For open ground in central Russia, only varieties of early and very early ripening are suitable. Their fragrant, juicy clusters mature in 120-130 days.

It should be noted that even the earliest ripening grapes can grow only where the sum of active temperatures exceeding +10 degrees is at least 2,000 degrees. Approximately this is the line Veliky Novgorod - Moscow - Vladimir - Nizhny Novgorod - Izhevsk - Kurgan. But even south of this line, special agricultural techniques must be used to successfully grow grapes.

Grape bushes are planted on the southern slope of the site or on the south side of the house. It is advisable to fence the plantings from the north and east with a fence or buildings that protect the plants from cold winds. High beds increase soil warming. But this is a double-edged sword. In winter, there may be problems with covering the grapes. The soil temperature can be increased by watering with hot water and using transparent plastic film. However, after warm weather sets in, the transparent film should be removed so as not to overheat the root system.

It is also important to take care of preparing plants for winter in advance. To restrain the growth of shoots, from mid-summer they stop feeding the grapes with nitrogen fertilizers, and in August they begin a very important operation, which winegrowers call chasing. It consists of removing the upper part of shoots with leaves that have not reached normal size

Minting is carried out when the growth of the shoots slows down, a sign of which is the straightening of their tops. Minting too early can lead to the opposite effect - increased growth of side shoots

It consists of removing the upper part of shoots with leaves that have not reached normal size. Minting is carried out when the growth of the shoots slows down, a sign of which is the straightening of their tops. Minting too early can lead to the opposite effect - increased growth of side shoots.

How to plant grapes in the Leningrad region. The best grape varieties for the Leningrad region

The winegrowers of the Leningrad region have a lot of practice. You can safely choose varieties that they have already tested in their vineyards. It is worth planting proven non-covering varieties with early ripening periods.

The Latvian hybrid Zilga is always popular. The bushes can withstand 30-degree frosts. Ripe bunches can hang for a long time without losing their presentation. There are no problems with pollination; the variety is self-pollinating.

Ripe berries acquire a dark blue color, and notes of nutmeg are formed in their taste. One bush produces up to 12 kg of berries.

Express Early tolerates frost up to 32 °C. Dark ripe fruits contain up to 28% sugars, which explains their good taste. They make excellent homemade wines. The weight of one bunch can reach up to 300 g. The harvest is harvested from late July to mid-August. Productivity does not decrease due to bad weather.

The Supaga variety is suitable for frost resistance in the Leningrad region. Frosts down to -25 °C are not scary for him. The clusters fill early and weigh from 300 to 600 g. The berries weighing up to 5 g have a simple, no-frills taste. Their color is amber. The variety has weak resistance to phylloxera, but it is rarely susceptible to rot, mildew, and oidium.

Cognac lovers plant Vandal Cliche. This is a wine variety from Canada. It ripens early, is very disease resistant, and is productive. The berries are medium in size, white in color, apple-pear aroma. Not quite ripe grapes are cut off for wine. This takes the Isabella notes out of the drink.

Violet early was bred in the Rostov region. Berries are used in many ways (wine, juice, fresh consumption). The bunches ripen in 130 days. Their harvesting begins in early September. The load on the bush is normalized. The berries are not large (up to 3 g), purple with a waxy coating. They are collected in small clusters weighing about 200 g. The second wave of fruiting occurs on the stepsons.

The hybrid form Veres was bred in Ukraine, author V.V. Zagorulko. Grape fruits do not have seeds. They ripen early (90-100 days). The clusters are cone-shaped, large, weighing from 600 g. The taste of the pulp contains nutmeg.

Solaris is a wine variety bred in Germany. Ripens early. The fruits are white, round, and contain up to 22% sugars in the pulp. The variety has good resistance to mildew and oidium, but the berries suffer from wasps.

The Black Pearl variety ripens in September. The bunch size is medium. The berries are dark blue, medium-sized, round-conical. The pulp has a pronounced aroma of nutmeg, the taste is harmonious and rich. Frost resistance at -26 °C. The variety's immunity to mildew and oidium is average.

Other varieties for open ground:

• Khasansky Sweet;
• Galant;
• Regent;
• First Michurinsky;
• P34;
• P33;
• Danko;
• Muscat Blau.

Other varieties are suitable for greenhouses. For example, Laura grapes are grown near St. Petersburg. This is a table culture. The clusters are large, conical, dense. The ripening period lasts at least 120 days. Frost resistance is not bad (-23 °C).

Kishmish Radiant is an old Moldavian variety; the clusters ripen in 130 days. It is also successfully grown indoors. Ripe berries are pink in color. The shape of the fruit is oval, elongated. The taste has a hint of nutmeg. The plant is susceptible to mildew and oidium.

Which varieties are suitable for a given region?

When the climate is harsh and unpredictable, the variety is selected according to its ripening time. Only bunches of early grapes have time to ripen in the Moscow region.

For the future vineyard, early table and technical varieties are chosen. The former are grown for fresh consumption, the latter for processing. If the area is small, preference is given to universal forms.

What to choose: greenhouse or open ground?

The biggest misconception of gardeners, both experienced and beginners, is that grapes require complex care. But this is not so - you can get decent results with minimal care for your plants.

As a person passionate about plants, he began to study grapes and very soon found out that we have been growing them in the Leningrad region for a long time, and even our friends are doing it. On their advice, I purchased several more seedlings and planted them in a greenhouse, as my friends grew grapes exclusively indoors. There was only enough space in the greenhouse for new seedlings, and we left the bushes that were already growing on the site outside. At first, much of the growing technology and the culture itself was unclear and difficult; everything took a lot of time, especially when spider mites appeared in the greenhouse.

The new seedlings were already mature, so I received the first fruits in the greenhouse the very next year after they were planted. I was surprised that the bushes growing in open ground produced a harvest no worse than the vine in the greenhouse. At the same time, their care was minimal: I only trimmed them in the fall, even forgetting to cover them for the winter. Therefore, based on observations of grapes over the past years, I can note that in open ground this crop is not affected by diseases and pests that periodically appeared in the greenhouse, and plants placed in the garden require much less care.

I in no way want to say that you don’t need to grow grapes in a greenhouse, but only in open ground. It all depends on what goals you set. If you are chasing a large, fleshy berry, then only a greenhouse can give such a result. And if you, like me, want to eat aromatic berries with an unusual rich taste, then it’s easier to grow them outside. The size of the fruits will be average; those weighing more than five grams may not gain the required amount of sugar. If you want berries not only at the end of summer, then very early varieties for open ground can be planted in a greenhouse; they will ripen in mid-summer, but they will also require appropriate care in the greenhouse.

Let's compare what is the main difference between growing outdoors and growing in a greenhouse

. In the spring, the grapes wake up early in the greenhouse and are subject to frost every year. As a result, it has to be sprayed with stimulants and insulated. In open ground, the vine wakes up much later - late May - early June; the vine and swollen buds are not afraid of return frosts. Of course, there are frosts in mid-June, then the young shoots need to be covered, but this happens extremely rarely.

It turns out that in open ground we do without a single treatment, and, therefore, we get environmentally friendly berries. Even if the roof of a greenhouse is removed for the winter, the snow cover in it is significantly less. This means that the ground there freezes more strongly, and the grapes require serious shelter. In open ground, those varieties that overwinter require only light, dry shelter from winter thaws, when in January it happens +5°C and it rains.

As a result, it turns out that the greenhouse provides the only benefit: the grapes ripen 2-3 weeks earlier, and varieties with very large berries can be grown there. But there are a lot of disadvantages and work. In open ground everything is much simpler, although a more limited number of varieties can be grown there.

My opinion: is it worth spending so much effort when you can grow sweet grapes much easier, and also environmentally friendly? And you can buy a large, fleshy berry in a store.

In my collection, the varieties Zilga, Muscat Nina, Supaga, F 14 75, Riddle Sharov, Thumbelina, 545, Varduva, Liepsna, Moscow Sustainable, Jubilee Gailyunesa, Palanga, Yadviga, Aglaya, Liepass Dzintars, Olita, Meda, Korinka grow in open ground Russian, Iza, Aleshenkin, Pink Pearl, August Purple, Stella, Monica, Lucille, Alpha, Beauty of the North (Olga), Shasla Gailyunesa, Tsiravas agra, Guna, Svalya, Relines pink seed fox

and also varieties that undergo introduction (introduction of foreign plant species into culture).
Varieties Arcadia, 342, Kishmish radiant
and
Laura
grow only in a greenhouse.

Having tested various varieties on my plot, I am now more inclined to grow varieties of Baltic selection. For gardeners starting to grow grapes, I would first of all recommend choosing the following varieties: Zilga, Muscat Nina, Supaga, F 14 75

– has a female flower type, but is well pollinated by another variety. These varieties have great growth vigor, good frost resistance and different shades of taste. Once you try their berries, you will understand how different they are.

When pruning vines, I prefer fan pruning in four arms, combining techniques with and without knot replacement on one bush.

A few words about varieties

Most of the early and many of the mid-early and even middle varieties feel great in unheated greenhouses. The only variety that did not ripen in my greenhouse is a hybrid obtained from Yu.M. Chuguev ('Thur Heyerdahl' x 'Aelita') with the poetic name 217-40-3-1. Moreover, in the third year of growing in a greenhouse, some of the berries in the bunch were very tasty and dark-colored already in early September, while the other part in the same bunch remained sour and green even in mid-October.

But even very early and very early varieties behave differently in open ground. 'Korinka Russian' , for example, which always ripened at the end of August, and which I still considered one of the most reliable varieties, in 2012 in mid-September it had not yet gained sugar and its berries began to rot. 'Zilga' variety (later ripening) was perhaps a little sour than usual and ripened three weeks later than in previous years.

Variety 'Sharov's Mystery'

The variety 'Sharov's Mystery' has never failed me in the eight years that I have been growing it. This is truly an absolutely trouble-free cultivar. In 2011, I harvested 8 kilograms of grapes from a three-year-old specimen in mid-September (usually they ripened for me in late August). In addition, the berries of 'Riddles' can hang on the vine until frost, while becoming tastier and tastier. True, birds are not indifferent to them.

But the very early F -14-75 in 2012 did not ripen either the berries or the vine. 'Nina's Muscat' - the berries didn't have enough sugar, although those who tried it for the first time immediately wanted this particular variety. The vine is 40% ripe. Overwintered in a trench in the open ground, and then grown outside, a potted (more precisely, “bucket”) specimen of the ‘Pearl Pink’ ripened in early September, had excellent taste, and by the end of the season, a well-ripened (60 percent) vine.

Not long ago I purchased several cultivars of Amur grapes , but due to their comparative youth I have not yet decided to judge them. The first tiny bunches of 'Taiga' ripened in mid-September, at the same time as 'Sharov's Mystery'. 'Kishmish Potapenko' , which according to the description is a rather late variety, was quite edible in early October, and its clusters turned out to be of an impressive size (for the first fruiting, in any case).

Grapes 'Russian Early', August 2012

'New Russian' in the greenhouse produced the first decent bunch of excellent taste, but has not yet fruited in the open ground. It seems that he, like 'Russian Early' , needs a large supply of perennial wood in order to show himself in all his glory.

When and how to plant grapes in the Leningrad region

When planting grapes, you should prepare the place in advance and make sure that each plant has at least a square meter of area. Make a hole 50-60 cm deep and add a drainage layer (crushed stone, expanded clay or broken brick) to the bottom.

If the soil has a high clay content, then add sand, as well as ash, organic and complex mineral fertilizers to the pit. Mix all this with the soil that is supposed to be used to fill the hole.

Planting should be done in the spring, as soon as the soil has warmed up well (but still first spill the hole with warm water). Over the summer, the seedling will get stronger and, with appropriate shelter, will overwinter well.

In summer, you can plant plants with closed roots. With proper care, they will also take root well. If you decide to plant grape seedlings in the fall, then for the winter the plant will need to not only be covered, but also pre-hilled.

Planting dates and tips

Grapes should be planted in a prepared area. The bush should allocate at least 1 m² of soil - 2 x 0.5 m. A deep hole is not needed. It is enough to deepen it by 60 cm. In places with high soil moisture, drainage in the form of broken bricks, crushed stone, and rubble is poured onto the bottom.

In loamy soil, the root system develops poorly, so to fill the hole, in addition to organic matter, mineral fertilizers, ash, and sand are added to the soil mixture. Seedlings are planted in the spring immediately after the soil has completely warmed up. In summer the plant takes root and overwinters without problems.

In the summer months, seedlings with a closed root system can be planted; with good care, they take root no worse than grapes planted in the spring. Winemakers from the Leningrad region also practice autumn planting, but for the winter they spit and cover the seedlings.

Planting grapes in the Leningrad region. Greenhouse or open ground?

The winegrowers were not afraid of the cold climate of the Leningrad region, and they have long been practicing growing grapes on their plots. And they do it quite successfully. It is believed that heat-loving crops in the northern regions must be grown in greenhouses. But breeders have developed new ultra-early frost-resistant grape varieties that are successfully grown in open ground.

Modern grape varieties can be grown even in mid-latitude conditions

When choosing a greenhouse or an open area for grapes, you need to understand that care, as well as the end result, will vary. Each growing method has its positive and negative features.

The advantages of greenhouse grape growing in cold climates are obvious:

• the harvest ripens in due time;
• sweet, juicy berries;
• There are no restrictions on the choice of variety.

Despite this, growing grapes in greenhouses is associated with a number of difficulties:

• early awakening of buds in the spring, which without special treatment can be damaged by frost;
• the need for regular watering;
• Increased air temperature and humidity contribute to the development of diseases.

Growing grapes in a greenhouse has its advantages

Not every grape variety can be grown in the open ground of the Leningrad region. Only very early (early) varieties with medium-sized berries are suitable for cultivation. Large berries simply do not have time to gain sugar and ripen.

Modern grape varieties can be grown even in mid-latitude conditions

Growing grapes in a greenhouse has its advantages

Amursky

Not all grapes can be grown in open ground in the Leningrad region. First of all, the varieties must be frost-resistant, with very early and early ripening. Thus, the grapes should ripen by mid-August. Even cool summers will not be a hindrance to early and very early varieties. If we compare ripening in a greenhouse and in open ground, then in a greenhouse the fruits will become ripe twenty days earlier.

The main feature of the Amur grapes is resistance to frost and fungal diseases. Outwardly, this variety resembles a wild vine, on which there are weighty clusters. He is not afraid of transplants and easily adapts to different conditions. Amur grapes are often compared to wild ones. In autumn, its fiery red foliage decorates the area, and when ripe you can enjoy the excellent sweet taste of the berries.

Muscat

This variety is classified as a table variety; it can be eaten and made into excellent wines. The clusters are approximately 10 cm long and 8 cm wide, yellow-golden in color, and have round fruits with thin skin and juicy pulp with a magnificent nutmeg aroma.

The seedlings have unique properties: they are resistant to diseases, severe winters, and have good adaptive properties. The variety has a high stable yield, long-term preservation of fruits on the shoots, which allows them to have a good presentation during transportation. Shoots develop well, ripening up to 90%.

Zilga

This is a universal variety with early ripening. Large oval blue fruits can be eaten as early as late July - early August. The bunches have a cylindrical shape and a dense structure. The peculiarity of Zilga grapes is the ability to maintain excellent taste and presentation even when the clusters remain on the bushes for a long time.

This variety is frost-resistant and can be grown without the use of shelters, and is resistant to damage by gray rot and oidium. The variety is planted in spring or autumn. Seedlings are undemanding to soil composition. The grapes have great growth power, so they need support.

Aglaya

The grapes have dense clusters weighing up to 400 g. The berries are medium in size, green in color, and have an exquisite taste. The variety is resistant to low temperatures and is easy to care for.

Possible problems

When we talk about problems, we of course mean infestations of harmful insects and the unexpected and unpleasant development of diseases. Most varieties common in the Leningrad region are quite resistant to diseases, but this does not mean that even the most resistant variety cannot be affected by the disease.

Therefore, preventive treatments should never be neglected. This is especially true for those who plan to grow grapes in a greenhouse. In this case, you definitely cannot skip processing.

In addition to diseases, throughout the entire summer season it is necessary to protect plants from parasites - spider mites, grape budworms and grape itch. Fungicidal preparations should also be used against them and the plants should be inspected regularly.

There are no obstacles to growing grapes in the Leningrad region, because gardeners manage to obtain harvests in a more severe and unpredictable climate. The main thing is to choose the right varieties and properly care for the plants, providing them with all the necessary conditions for growth.

Features of planting grapes for the northwest

Growing grapes requires certain skills and knowledge. But, even if you are not a winegrower, everything will work out.

Note! Grapes do not like acidic soil. Taking into account this feature of the soil in the Leningrad region, lime, as well as organic and mineral fertilizers, should be added to the planting hole. Experience will appear during the growing process, and the theoretical part can be gleaned by reading the article to the end

Experience will appear during the growing process, and the theoretical part can be gleaned by reading the article to the end.

• It is recommended not to plant the seedlings immediately, but to leave them outside directly in the container for several days. First you need to put it in the shade, then move it to partial shade, and only then to a sunny place. In this way, the plant gradually gets used to new conditions. You can plant grapes after the end of spring frosts and before the cold autumn.
• To plant grapes, you need to choose a sunny place on a hill. An excellent option would be to plant it near the wall of the house. This way the grapes will have somewhere to wander. Another advantage is that the wall, having warmed up during the day, will give off its heat at night. In addition, it is simply very beautiful at any time of the year. It should also be taken into account that the planting site must be protected from drafts.
• It is better to plant a grape seedling in black soil or forest soil. To make the soil more loose, you can add sand. The humus layer should be at least 60 cm deep, preferably 1 m.
• Varieties growing in open ground need to be covered with special material in early May, even if the variety is not covered. It is also better to cover the plant for the winter, especially after pruning it is not difficult to do. A good way is to cover it with a wooden box. You can make a canopy from polycarbonate. Another option is to bend the plants to the ground, cover with film and sprinkle with soil. The result will be a kind of greenhouse that will be covered with snow in winter. This is excellent protection against severe frosts. The cover can be removed in the spring, when the snow begins to melt, but it is better to wait until the frosts end.
• Every year you need to prune the bushes (starting from the first year) according to this principle: immediately after planting, the shoot is cut into two buds, from which two shoots will grow. For pruning the plant, pruning shears, a garden saw, a knife, and a garden pitcher are suitable.
• In autumn, in the first year after the leaves fall off, one shoot is pruned into two buds (in the future this will be a replacement branch), and the second into 8-10 buds (fruit vine). Next year, two shoots will grow again from the replacement twig. They should be pruned again as last fall. If flower clusters appear on the fruit vine, it is better to leave 2-3 and cut off the rest.
• In the fall, the entire fruit vine is cut out. The grapes begin to bear fruit in 3-4 years.
• As a preventative measure, each pruning should be accompanied by treating the plant against parasites and various diseases. Treatment is carried out as needed.

Important! You should not leave more than 30 bunches on an adult plant, otherwise, most likely, they will not ripen

Zilga grapes

Gardeners in cool climates are constantly looking for early and frost-resistant grape varieties. Professional winegrowers recommend the Zilga grape, obtained by crossing Smuglyanka, Dvietes zila and Yubileiny Novgorod by the Latvian breeder P. Sukatnieks. A hybrid variety of blue (the word zilga translates as blue) grapes has a number of remarkable qualities.

Why culture is attractive

The plant inherited many of its best features from the late-ripening Moldavian Smuglyanka, which the breeders chose as the basis for selection. Among them are:

• High degree of fruit ripening (80-85%, Smuglyanka has 90%) and high yield (up to 12 kg per bush).
• Good taste, which is confirmed by a tasting score of 7.1 (Smuglyanka has 7.8).
• Excellent transportability and safety. The hybrid does not crack and does not lose its presentation while on the vine for up to a month. Gradually drying out, it turns into raisins.
• Increased resistance to diseases, frost resistance (withstands temperatures of -25 degrees), which in some areas allows you to grow the crop without shelter.
• Versatility. The fruits of the vine are used both for food and for making juices and wine.
• Good compatibility with rootstocks.

By crossing with earlier varieties, breeders achieved that three months from the start of the growing season are enough for the berries of the plant to ripen. At the end of July - beginning of August, gardeners can already harvest. Early ripening of berries is especially important for entrepreneurs growing crops for trade. From these varieties, Zilga received a pleasant isabella-strawberry flavor. A description of the advantages of the plant would be incomplete without noting that with the help of a vigorous vine you can beautifully decorate a gazebo or decorate a fence, for example, made of chain-link. And from the young leaves you will get dolma (stuffed cabbage rolls).

Characteristics of grapes

The hybrid is characterized by the main features:

1. Strong growth of shoots of self-rooted bushes, average growth of grafted ones (the vine reaches 4 or more meters in height).
2. The leaves are large and dense, pubescent below, lobed with shallow notches.
3. The flowers are bisexual and do not require additional pollination.
4. The taste is sweet and sour with the aroma of Isabella (sugar content reaches 22%, acidity – 4.5-5 g/l).
5. The clusters are medium or large in size, medium-dense and dense, cylindrical in shape, reaching a weight of 400 grams.
6. The skin is medium thick.
7. The berries are fleshy and juicy, blue, weighing about 4 g. Seeds 3-4. Ripe berries are dark blue with a thick waxy (pruin) coating. The shape of the berries is round-oval.

It is worth adding to the characteristics of the hybrid that the juice obtained from blue grapes does not have a rich dark color, it is pale purple.

How to plant seedlings correctly

1. Plan to plant grapes in the spring or fall. For spring, pre-prepare the site and soil in the fall; for autumn, a month before the appointed time.
2. Remember that grapes are a heat-loving plant; you should choose the most southern, sunny, windless and unshaded place on your site. If you have young trees in your garden, step back at least 3 meters from them.
3. The hybrid is not picky about the composition of the soil, but grows best on light, slightly acidic soils with the addition of humus and peat. To prevent root rot, do not choose wet soil with a nearby groundwater source.
4. Level the site, plan the rows.
5. Zilga is a tall plant. It will require preliminary preparation of supports.
6. Having received a seedling, take a good look at its root system, determine the quality of the roots by the cut, which should not be brown-rotten, but light green. Also evaluate the entire purchase as a whole.
7. If the roots have dried out - which should not happen - put the vine in water for a day.
8. Plant bushes at a distance of at least 3 meters from each other, retreat 1.5 meters in the row. Dig a hole 80x80x80 cm.
9. After planting, water the plant thoroughly and water regularly throughout the week.

Necessary conditions for growing grapes in the garden

The most important requirements for cultivation are:

• fertile soil;
• appropriate place;
• correctly selected variety;
• sufficient moisture and sun, as well as positive emotions.

Like any other plants, grapes will respond with gratitude for the work and energy invested.

Soil preparation

Both sand and fertile black soil are suitable for cultivation. The grapes are not picky about the quality of the soil, but there are some nuances. If the soil contains a lot of clay, then it should be provided with drainage.

If, on the contrary, there is a lot of sand, then add more fertilizers and manure. Be sure to measure the acidity of the soil: if the pH is below 6, then treat with lime (200g per 1 m²). Increased salinity can also negatively affect grapes. You should not choose low-lying places where water can linger. Grapes do not like excess moisture.

Landing location

Proper planting and care of grapes play a major role in the growing process, so you need to carefully choose the location. South-facing sides of buildings are best so that the sprouts receive sufficient light and warmth throughout the summer. This will strengthen the root and increase its chances of surviving the winter.

Grape planting and care: how to choose a place

If it is not possible to plant grapes on the south side, you can make a deeper planting hole (add 20 cm in depth). Remember: if you save the root, the whole plant will survive.

Choosing the right variety

There are many varieties suitable for cultivation in Russia

When choosing, pay attention to the desired ripening period; it should correspond to the warmest time of the year in the area. You should also consider the frost resistance of the bushes and whether they need to be covered for the winter. Choose grape varieties based on frost resistance

Choose grape varieties based on frost resistance

Caution never hurts: it is better to cover the grapes, regardless of the variety. It is also necessary to lower the vine and press it to the ground before wintering. For the Leningrad region and Moscow region, you can choose different varieties, for example, Amur grapes are suitable for planting and caring for which will not require a lot of effort

For the Leningrad region and the Moscow region, you can choose different varieties; for example, Amur grapes are suitable for planting and caring for which will not require much effort.

Illumination and warmth

The grapes are heat-loving, but in extreme heat (over +35°C) they can slow down their development. The darker the color of the berries, the more heat this variety requires, and vice versa. A slightly shaded area is ideal for growing.

How to properly prepare the soil for planting

Grapes are not too picky about the quality of the planting soil, but this crop will not grow well and produce a harvest if you choose clay soil. Growing grapes is best done in fertile black soil, to which sand will be added in small quantities. If the soil contains a lot of clay, then before planting the shrub, additional components in the form of sand and fertile soil should be introduced into the ground, adding a drainage base to the mixture.

You need to add organic fertilizers in the form of rotted house manure to sandy soil, and reduce the acidity of the soil using ordinary lime.

Growing grapes will be successful if the planting site is chosen on a hill. In such an area, the accumulation of large amounts of moisture, which can destroy the root system of plants, is excluded.

Growth vigor of bushes and vines

The bush at Northern Sweet is vigorous. This means that after planting a shoot, you should help it form correctly. Already in the second year it will begin to bear fruit. The yield of Northern Sweet is high. Necessary:

• provide good nutrition to the plant, use fertilizers;
• tie up the seedling, guiding, correcting growth, strengthening the main trunk and vines, as well as the root system;
• remove excess shoots and foliage in a timely manner.

If a seedling is forced to constantly struggle for existence from the very beginning, it will not bear fruit at all. It will not be possible to create a lush green gazebo. At any moment, the bush can get sick, and neighboring plants can also suffer from this. Good nutrition and the use of fertilizers will help solve the problem.

If the soil and its initial characteristics are not suitable for growing certain crops, only with effort can this be corrected. Sometimes bringing in black soil is not enough. There may be too much clay in the soil, for example. In this case, you will have to try. Grapes love sandy, silty, and clay soils, but the balance of components and soil acidity are important for them.

Any grape loves soil with good water permeability. He doesn't like the proximity of groundwater. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure their outflow if they are too close to the surface, and to dry the soil.

The Northern Sweet has a high resistance to disease.
The Northern Sweet has a high resistance to disease. But prevention will not be superfluous. Thinning foliage, shoots, and removing excess ovaries is the simplest means of preventing fungal infection, for example. In this way, sufficient sun supply is ensured. An environment unfavorable for pathogenic microorganisms is formed.

In the first year of life, the seedling forms a root system and adapts to environmental conditions. There is an invisible struggle for territory. During this period, the plant cannot fully orient itself in space and its growth may be directed in the wrong direction. The direction must be corrected by tying.

In this case, the main trunk will take the correct position, the one that a person needs. The appearance of bends at the base is excluded. If the grapes begin to grow spontaneously, it may take a long time to correct the deficiencies. It is easy to break at the bend, you must act carefully and carefully. It’s better to immediately try to tie up the seedling. This will save energy and time in the future.

Characteristics of bunches and berries

The grape clusters are small (their weight reaches no more than 80-120 g), conical in shape, moderately dense. The shape of the berries is round, classic, each weighs on average 1.5-2 g. On one bunch you can simultaneously find both large and small berries. The color can be dark blue or blue-violet with a slight waxy coating on the skin.

Northern grapes have excellent characteristics: the pulp is juicy, with a sweet and sour harmonious taste, the sugar content is high - its value is 19-25%, acidity ranges from 6 to 11 g/mol. The indicators depend on what time the bunches were removed from the vine. It is believed that the longer the crop is not harvested, the more sugars and acids accumulate in it.

The skin of the berries is strong, dense, but quite thin. They have high transportability and keeping quality. The advantage of such a thick skin is that bees, wasps and birds cannot damage it, and therefore there is no need to protect the crop from them. The skin of grapes is easily separated from the pulp, and the berries themselves have high taste. Advantages of Northern grapes:

• productivity;
• good ripening of shoots;
• frost resistance;
• it is resistant to oidium and other diseases.

Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that with a lack of water, not only the taste deteriorates, but also the yield decreases. Despite the fact that Severny is declared as a frost-resistant variety that can tolerate low temperatures, it is recommended to grow the crop under light shelter in the conditions of the Urals, Siberia and northern regions. Also, before winter, you can lay the vine on the ground, in which case the grapes will be securely covered with fallen snow.

The variety is high-yielding. It can be used to prepare high-quality homemade wine that will have a rich, pleasant taste. In most regions of our country, summer is short and cool, with few sunny days. Winter here is usually frosty and long. In order to obtain high yields, you need to know and follow some subtleties of agricultural technology.

Diseases and pests

The joys of growing grapes can be overshadowed by the sudden appearance of disease or harmful insects.

Mildew

Mildew is downy mildew. Signs of the disease are the appearance of a white coating on the leaves and fruits, the inflorescences fall off, the yield decreases, and the grapes grow very small.

You can get rid of the disease by spraying with copper sulfate, Bordeaux solution and colloidal fluid. The drug "Alirin-B" is also effective.

Among traditional methods, treatments with potassium permanganate and wood ash can help. For better results, chemicals and traditional recipes can be alternated.

Oidium

Treatments with colloidal sulfur help against powdery mildew. The drugs “Bayleton”, “Rubican”, “Karatan” are also effective. Treatment with these preparations can be carried out after flowering of the grapevine.

Gray rot

Treat the vine with a soda solution every 5-7 days. But this method is rarely effective. You can use fungicides "Ronilan", "Rovral", "Euparen", "Topsin". You need to spray the bushes with them no more than 4 times per season.

Spider mite

To repel ticks, you can plant onions and garlic near the vineyard. The smell of these plants repels the parasite. Among the chemicals, the preparations “Aktellik”, “Demitan”, “Karate”, “Akarin” are excellent in destroying ticks.

leaf roller

To combat the leaf roller, the following drugs are used:

• "DNOC";
• "Fozalon";
• "Keltan";
• "Karbofos".

You can also hang homemade traps. Holes are made in empty bottles and grape juice is poured into them. Bottles are hung in the vineyard. As soon as insects fly into them, the bottles are destroyed.

Tick

The vine is treated against itching in the fall, after the leaves fall. The bushes are sprayed with lime solution. In spring, the vine is treated with a solution of Carbolineum.

Phylloxera

Phylloxera is almost impossible to breed. If the vine is severely affected, it is dug up and destroyed, and the soil is then treated.

The only way to destroy the pest is to cause a flood. The soil is filled with water and not allowed to dry out for 40-50 days. But not every grape can survive such a radical method.

Characteristics of bunches and berries

Nordic sweet is a technical red grape variety. These berries easily make good wine. It can be eaten fresh, but in appearance it is not as impressive as table varieties. The drink rather than the aesthetics of the bunch will awaken your appetite - large and small berries can be found in one bunch at the same time. Their shape is classic, round. On average, each weighs 1.5-2 g. The clusters are small, weighing from 80 to 120 g, moderately dense, conical in shape.

The taste of Northern Sweet is very pleasant

The taste of Northern Sweet is very pleasant: sugar content can reach high levels - 19% -25%. The acidity varies from 6 to 11 g/mol. These indicators depend on when the bunches were cut from the branches - the longer the crop is not harvested, the more sugars and acids accumulate in it. These are mid to late ripening grapes. It ripens by the end of August, but if the weather permits, the cold has not yet set in, you can cut it a little later and get a wine with slightly different taste characteristics, or enjoy this feature of its changing taste by eating it fresh.

Its skin is dense. Thanks to this, Northern Sweet does not wrinkle during transportation and can lie for some time, waiting for it to be processed. But wasps, bees, and birds can damage such skin, so it is worth using methods of protection against them. It is important to use special bags to protect grapes from wasps, bees, and birds - this is the latest method, effective, and inexpensive. Perhaps no one has come up with anything better yet. The skin is easily separated from the pulp. Its berries are delicious.