How many years does it take for grapes to bear fruit?

Factors affecting fruiting

Place

The choice of planting location affects how comfortable the seedlings will feel in the ground, their survival rate and the quality of the future harvest depend.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the soil and planting site. The grapes are not whimsical and grow on any soil except saline

The best place for developing a vineyard is the southern or southeastern side of the plot. It is not recommended to plant in lowlands, as cold air masses accumulate there, and there is a risk of frostbite during the frost period. The best place is on slopes protected from cold northern winds with the least likelihood of soil freezing. The vineyard feels great near fences and walls of buildings. The optimal arrangement of rows is considered to be north - south. In this case, the bushes gain access to the sun's rays from both sides. Uniform and adequate lighting will help the plant gain the nutrients it needs for growth and development. With this planting orientation, it is recommended to leave about 2 meters between rows. This distance is sufficient for the free development of the bush and the formation of the necessary shade for protection from the harmful effects of direct sunlight. In other cases, 2.5 - 3 meters are left between the rows.

Time

Planting time - air temperature and weather conditions on the day of planting affect the ability of seedlings to take root and ensure further favorable development.

The ideal time to start planting is considered to be the days when the soil temperature has reached a stable value of +15 degrees Celsius. The higher the temperature, the faster the seedlings take root and form a powerful root system.

Trimming

Proper pruning is the key to the formation of a strong bush that can provide the clusters with the necessary nutrients.

In the first year of growth, all efforts should be directed to the development of two main shoots. In early September, it is recommended to pinch their tops and remove the young stepsons. After full ripening, in early December, the vines are pruned into 3-4 buds. In subsequent years, the resulting stepsons are pinched over the second leaf, and the upper part with inflorescences is removed.

Top dressing

Periodic feeding of the bush with fertilizers and watering will allow the plant to restore the nutrients spent in large quantities on the ripening of the bunches.

In spring and early summer, it is recommended to apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers together for better efficiency, and add organic fertilizers in the fall. Fertilizers are applied to a depth of 40 - 60 cm within a radius of 1 meter. You can provide nutrients not only to the roots, but also to the foliage. Foliar fertilizers are applied by spraying the leaves and are absorbed instantly. They are often combined with substances to protect against fungal diseases and rot.

If you want to get fruitful grapes as soon as possible, you can resort to some alternative methods.

Healthy grape cuttings can be planted in a plastic container in February. By May they produce a meter-long shoot that can be safely planted in open ground. After the cutting takes root and produces the first stepsons, they are pinched out, and the first harvest can be obtained the following year.
The easiest way is to buy a ready-made three-year-old seedling. It is planted in the soil, and excess shoots are carefully removed so as not to harm the plant. This method makes it possible to obtain the first mature bunches already in the first year from the moment of planting and to test the acquired variety.

Another main question tormenting gardeners is to find out how many years grapes bear fruit. From the moment of full fruiting to the aging and death of the bush, it takes from 9 to 26 years, it is possible that the period may increase depending on the characteristics of the variety and its care. When a crop is propagated by cuttings, it will produce a harvest within 50-150 years.

Today there are many varieties of grapes with different properties, taste and commercial qualities. The only thing that remains unchanged is people’s love for this culture and devotion to the ancient traditions of grape cultivation. Become part of this exciting process and choose varieties that you will truly enjoy from the process of growing and consuming.

Errors

At first time

To obtain the first harvest, great importance is given to pruning and shaping the bush to adjust the correct load on the vine. The bush quickly becomes overgrown with excess green mass and young shoots, which consume 90% of the nutrients. The size and quality of the bunches decreases, the harvest will be poor.

If all the growing points on the shoots are cut off (all the stepsons are pinched), wintering points begin to grow, which should bear fruit next year, then next year the harvest will be meager.

With frequent and abundant watering, the green mass will begin to actively grow, the ripening of the bunches will be delayed, and the sugar content of the fruit will decrease. Therefore, in the second half of summer, when the berries ripen, watering is reduced.

All in all

If grapes are planted on the north side of the house or in the shade of trees, then the vine will reach towards the light, the bush itself will grow weak, rare flowers will fall off and there will be no harvest.

A seedling with a shallow planting will have roots that freeze in the winter and will dry out in the summer.

When the leaves dry out, you should not use abundant watering; this sign may be the beginning of a disease or a lack of nutrients. We need to figure out the cause and eliminate it.

Planting grapes in a garden plot is not difficult even for an inexperienced gardener. The main thing is to follow the necessary rules of agricultural technology. Their further growth, quality and quantity of the future harvest depend on how comfortable the planted bushes feel.

How many years can you harvest?

All winegrowers are interested in the question, how many years does it take for grapes to bear fruit? The maximum limit is 26 years, the minimum is 9. And if you propagate the crop by branches, on which many strong shoots are formed annually, then the production of berries can be extended for 50 years.

The ability to bear fruit for a long time also depends on the selected variety of this berry crop. But there are many types of grapes that bear fruit for a long time. The choice is up to the winegrowers.

The growing process can be speeded up, but only slightly. But both in it and in conventional cultivation, the main thing is to properly take care of the planted grape bush. Protect him from diseases, treat him. If the need arises.

All this must be done with love. And then the usual routine process will turn into an exciting and useful pastime. And the resulting harvest will be a worthy and tasty reward for your work.

Caring for first-year grapes in spring, summer and autumn

Spring grape care consists of fighting diseases, pests and unfavorable external factors. For protection, spray the plant with 1% Bordeaux mixture, which will prevent the development of fungal diseases. Regular laundry soap (1 piece per 10 liters of water) will help against grape moths, fleas and spider mites. In addition, immediately after planting, young plants need to be shaded from direct sunlight for a couple of weeks, for example, using spunbond, plywood, shading mesh or other available materials.

Caring for grapes in summer consists of regular watering and fertilizing, loosening the soil and weeding.

Watering and fertilizing grapes

After planting, the vine needs regular and abundant watering. Of course, how often to water the grapes depends primarily on the weather. But usually the plant is watered 10-15 days after planting and the procedure is repeated every 2 weeks. If it is hot and the soil dries out quickly, watering should be increased more often.

To water the grapes, use warm, settled water in a volume of 5-10 liters per bush.

The fertilizers that were applied during planting will provide the vine with nutrients for 2-3 years, so there is no urgent need for additional feeding. If desired, at the end of summer you can strengthen the plant with the following mixture: 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m. Then the grapes will be better prepared for winter.

Grape pruning

The main goal of pruning in the first year after planting is to give the bush the correct “direction” of growth so that it has two new strong shoots. To do this, immediately after planting, cut it to 2 eyes, removing everything else.

In the future, pruning of grapes will be carried out annually. Otherwise, thickened plantings will become a source of diseases and pests, and the yield will sharply decrease.

You can also carry out catarification - removal of the surface roots of the plant. This will allow the other roots to go deeper into the ground and successfully overwinter. Draw a hole up to 25 cm deep and carefully trim off the top roots and excess shoots. Then fill the hole with soil.

Young bushes must be covered for the winter, regardless of whether your variety is winter-hardy or not. The procedure is carried out when all the leaves have fallen, after the first slight frost. For shelter, you can use straw, spruce branches, spunbond and even slate.

If you follow proper watering of the grapes, regularly feed the vine and protect it from pests, the young plant will develop as successfully as the seedlings planted in the fall of last year.

Do you want to grow grapes? Care for beginners, collected in this article, will help you create a luxurious vineyard that will bear fruit with juicy berries every year.

Try planting a grapevine, perhaps you will become so interested in this activity that you will become a real expert. And if you already grow grapes, share your secrets of a rich harvest in the comments.

How many years do grape bushes bear fruit?

Industrial grafted vineyards operate mainly for eight years. This is explained by the fact that during covering and uncovering by machines, the bushes are severely damaged, and by the eighth year there are many bald spots in the vineyard.

In an amateur vineyard, where the bushes are carefully covered and uncovered by hand, the grapes can be used for much longer. Even 30 years is not the limit here. The main thing is that the bushes do not get bacterial cancer, and this is not uncommon for covered grapes.

But in the eighth year, even on amateur bushes, a decrease in yield was still noticed. To support fruiting, plants are rejuvenated by removing old sleeves and forming new ones. If you leave young shoots at the head of the bush to replace the sleeves, then the rejuvenation will be painless and there will be no interruptions in the harvest.

Sometimes such gentle rejuvenation does not help, and productivity is not restored. To do this, early in the spring, the bushes are dug up with a shovel and the entire above-ground part is cut off slightly below ground level. After this, the four strongest shoots are selected, and new branches of the bush are formed from them. This rejuvenation allows for another five to eight years to obtain abundant grape harvests.

To extend the period of high fruiting of grape bushes, they resort to accelerated formation, which makes it possible to obtain harvests a year earlier. To do this, the seedling is pruned so that two buds are located above the soil level. Two shoots grow from them in the summer, and in mid-June they need to be pinched at a height of about 30-50 cm.

Of the growing stepsons, the top two are left. Sleeves are formed from them next year. In the second year, a fruiting link is formed on each sleeve (fruiting vine + replacement knot).

As a result, seedlings produce the first signal harvest already in the second or third year, and in the fourth or fifth year they begin to bear fruit.

Some winegrowers, in order to speed up the start of fruiting, grow seedlings in a bucket, putting them on the vines left for layering and filling them with humus. Such layerings quickly take root and seedlings planted in a permanent place quickly begin to bear fruit.

Grape bushes are grown until the yield sharply decreases. But even at this time, you can increase yields by adding more manure and mineral fertilizers to the soil, and feeding the bushes leaf by leaf with a solution of microfertilizers. Usually, after this approach, the bushes gain a second wind and produce abundant clusters.

How to plant grapes correctly

When the hole is ready and the plant is hardened, start planting. Remove the grapes from the package along with the earthen lump. Place the seedling in the hole so that the zone of root formation (heel of the cutting) is located 35-40 cm below ground level. Conventionally, this place can be taken as the center of the container where the seedling was located. Also make sure that the “eye” from which the lowest green shoot develops is located 10 cm below ground level - this will make it easier to form a bush and cover the shoots for the winter.

If the seedling is too long and cannot be planted vertically at the correct depth, place it at an angle, first pouring soil on one side of the hole.

At the end of planting, fill the plant with soil 5 cm below the “eye”, compact it thoroughly with your hands so that there are no voids. Water the seedling with 1-2 buckets of warm water. Wait until it is absorbed and completely fill the hole with soil, but do not compact it. The soil must remain loose so that there is good air exchange, so there is no need to trample it. But mulching is worth doing, because... it will prevent the formation of an earthen crust and reduce the evaporation of moisture.

Many gardeners wonder at what distance to plant grapes in a row. We answer: it is best to maintain a distance of 1-1.5 m between plants. If there are a lot of seedlings, you can dig not holes, but a trench 40-80 cm deep. Support for the grapes is also necessary so that the vine develops correctly. Use pegs, pipes, etc. as a temporary solution. In the future, it is worth installing a trellis, which will allow the bush to form perfectly and make it easier to care for.

Getting an early harvest. Additional Methods

Wondering when grapes begin to bear fruit, most winegrowers look for alternative ways to harvest early. And of high quality. And I must say, not without success.

The most popular among them will be listed and described below.

Using a plastic container. To get an early harvest, you should place healthy and strong cuttings in a plastic bottle. Planting of such material should be carried out in February, and in May it will be possible to transplant a meter-long shoot into open ground, and if there are several of them, then plant it every 100 centimeters. After adaptation, the cuttings should be pinched correctly as soon as the first stepsons form. The harvest will be available for tasting next year.
Planting a three-year-old grape seedling. Such a purchase can be made in specialized stores or nurseries that practice growing various varieties. Planting it in the soil is done carefully; the lower eye must always look outward.

What does productivity depend on?

The yield of grapes depends on the combination of many factors, which will ultimately give either an excellent harvest, or the result is far from your expectations. If we highlight the main criteria for good fruiting of grapes, then these include:

Correct choice of planting material. You can plant grapes either with ready-made seedlings or grow the cuttings yourself until they are ready to be planted in open ground.
Planting grapes. There are many nuances here that affect the final result, from the distance between the bushes to the depth of the planting hole.
Choosing the right place and time of landing.
Properly carried out annual pruning, with the correct formation of the bush and taking into account the adjustment of the load on the bush.
High-quality preparation for winter and timely treatment of diseases.
Watering and fertilizing.
Plant age.
Select a variety that suits your region. If you get the wrong variety, you may never see ripe grapes.

Rules of care

Before planting grapes, you need to prepare the soil to a depth of 100 cm. The entire layer is removed, a large volume of humus and compost is added, mixed and loosened. Heavy clay soils are additionally diluted with sand. Each bush is allocated at least 2 m in a row. When choosing a location, it should be taken into account that it is not advisable to plant grapes next to large trees. They actively absorb moisture and nutrients around them. Along the perimeter of the vineyard, at a distance of 4-5 m, you can plant perennial shrubs (currants, gooseberries), it will protect the plants from the wind and retain snow.

Before fruiting, young bushes are watered 4-5 times per season, helping the plants survive the driest times. By the end of summer, abundant watering can stimulate the active growth of shoots that will not have time to ripen before the end of the season. It is necessary to ensure that a layer of soil of at least 1 meter is soaked. Surface moisture stimulates the development of roots in the upper layer of soil, which dries out first, and the plant becomes dependent on frequent watering.

To protect the vineyard soil from drying out and cracking, it is mulched with a thick layer of dry grass or straw.

In late autumn or early spring, humus is added to the digging in large quantities. During the first half of summer, instead of mineral fertilizers, you can water the grapes with mullein solution. In the second half, it is better to switch to feeding with bird droppings. Foliar fertilizing with potassium fertilizers according to the instructions is useful. It is undesirable to completely replace organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers; the taste and quality of the berries greatly depends on the “humus” component of the soil.

Pruning of young bushes in order to speed up fruiting is done minimally. Remove excess and weak shoots so that the plant does not waste energy on them. One of the largest shoots is lightly pruned, leaving the middle part of the vine with the buds of the inflorescences. The second shoot is cut “on the sleeve”. Under favorable conditions, such grapes can bloom in the second year after planting.

In the first fruiting season, only one small inflorescence is left for sampling berries. If you do not remove the excess ovary, the plant will spend all its energy on ripening the fruits, this year’s vine will not ripen, and the bush will freeze in winter. In autumn, the bushes are carefully covered; the first and second winters after planting are the most critical. Young vines often freeze, which can delay fruiting for at least one season.

Grapes in the first year of cultivation - tips for proper planting and care

Adding an article to a new collection

Growing grapes for novice gardeners sometimes seems like a difficult task. This perennial vine loves when it receives maximum attention. Follow our tips to make sure you do everything right.

Grape bushes are often found in summer cottages, and all because growing a plant in the middle zone is not so difficult. Despite its whimsical nature, summer residents successfully plant bushes of various varieties and receive good harvests. If you decide to create a vineyard, late spring - early summer is the time to purchase seedlings and start planting.

Proper planting of grapes begins with choosing a location. The vine needs a lot of light and warmth, so choose an area protected from the wind, for example, near the south wall of a house or barn.

Water from the roof should not flow onto the grapes, otherwise they will die.

The soil is required to be as nutritious and loose as possible. Give preference to black soils with a high humus content. Also, grapes will successfully take root on rocky or sandy soil if you first add humus to the hole. The plant will like clay and peat soils less, so it is worth putting expanded clay, broken bricks, crushed stone or other drainage at the bottom of the hole.

On light sandy soils, grapes ripen 1-2 weeks earlier than on heavy clay soils.

Fruiting start time

When growing unirrigated grapes on an industrial scale, the bushes are not allowed to bear fruit until they are four years old. It is believed that only by this time the plant is able to produce a harvest without compromising the health and quality of the berries. The bush must have time to build up a sufficient volume of root mass before it begins to bear fruit. After pruning, the plant takes on a shape suitable for the given climatic and soil conditions.

The first four years of proper formation of bushes allow you to subsequently spend a minimum amount of time on caring for the vineyard

This is especially important for non-irrigated plantings of large farms. When the grapes begin to bear fruit, the bushes already have powerful roots up to 2-3 meters deep and a developed above-ground part of the bush

On your own plot, you can get the first bunches 1-2 years earlier. Regular watering and fertilizing remove most of the load from the plant in extracting moisture and nutrients. The main task for the gardener after planting is to have time to grow a strong, mature vine during the season. This will determine in what year the grapes will be ready to produce the first inflorescences and fruits.

Using some agricultural techniques, you can stimulate the growth and development of the bush.

Varieties and their overall productivity

The main characteristic of the variety is its yield. The description of any variety indicates which category it belongs to: low-yielding, medium-yielding or high-yielding.

The most productive varieties: Arcadia, Athos, Byzantium, Gourmet, Kishmish and other varieties with a bunch weight of 1 - 2.5 kg. On average, 10–25 kg of fruits are collected from a bush.

Low-yielding varieties produce up to 5 kg per bush, medium-yielding varieties - 5 - 9 kg.

Review of the most interesting varieties

Some grape varieties deserve special attention due to their fruiting period.

Augustine

How often to water onion sets after planting

This variety is suitable for cultivation by both experienced gardeners and beginners. Due to the early ripening of the bunches and frost resistance, people involved in viticulture in the Siberian and Ural zones prefer Augustine.

One bunch can weigh 0.4 - 1 kg. The berries do not press tightly against each other despite their size. One grape can weigh approximately 8 g and have a diameter of up to 2.8 cm. The skin is white or yellowish.

On a note! A grapevine can live between 60 and 80 years.

When do grapes produce their first harvest? You can get ripe fruits from mature bushes on day 117. If you leave one inflorescence on each shoot, the ripening time of the berries is reduced by 10 days.

Augustine

Aleshenkin

Gardeners interested in growing grapes in the Moscow region should pay attention to this variety. Aleshenkin is an unpretentious grape, it is easy to grow, while still obtaining a high-quality harvest

The advantages include the following features:

obtaining early abundant harvests;
amazing taste of grapes;
There are very few seeds in the berries;
cuttings take root well;
the crop ripens even if weather conditions are unfavorable.

Arcadia

The second name of this variety is Nastya. If you provide the shrubs with proper care, you can get high yields. The berries on the vines are large and have a pleasant nutmeg aroma. The characteristics of the variety include excellent adaptation to various climatic zones, and sudden temperature changes do not harm the crop.

Arcadia

The positive aspects of Arcadia are the following features:

early ripeness, from the moment the flowers appear until the first tassels ripen, approximately 120 days pass;
large berries: one grape can weigh about 15 g. The color of technical ripeness of the berries is white, light yellow; biological ripeness is indicated by the amber color of the grapes;
the peel is thin, has a whitish waxy coating, inside the berries there is a fleshy juicy pulp.

How long does this grape variety grow before fruiting? It all depends on how the landing was carried out. If cuttings were selected, then the second year is characterized by the appearance of signal clusters, which are recommended to be left in the amount of 2 so that the berries do not overload the bushes. But from the third year, full fruiting of the crop begins.

To get a good harvest in the early stages, you need to take into account many factors, as well as provide the grapes with proper care. We are talking about the correct selection of location, watering, pruning and treatment against diseases and pests. Only after this can the gardener count on reward for the work done.

Diseases and pests

Each disease or pest significantly reduces yield. Let's briefly look at the main ones:

When grapes are affected by downy mildew, the flowers and ovary dry out; with ordinary powdery mildew, the fruits burst and rot.
Anthracnose and black spot cause blackness and death of bunches.
Fruits affected by cercospora blight turn blue, wrinkle and fall off.
With root rot, the bush itself dies.
With gray rot, a fluffy coating appears on the grapes and foliage. The berries fall off.
Phylloxera (grape aphid) is a very dangerous pest. She sucks the juices from the roots, the bush dies.
The felt mite envelops the fruits in felt, and the growth of the bush slows down.
Caterpillars of leaf rollers and mealybugs eat leaves and fruits.

Factors affecting fruiting

With proper care, you can taste the first grapes already in the 2-3rd year after planting. But sometimes the gardener cannot achieve a harvest even in the 5-6th year. The ability of bushes to bear fruit depends on many conditions.

Time

Vegetating cuttings with exposed dried roots, planted in late spring, will suffer for a long time; the vine most likely will not have time to ripen and will not survive the winter. Even with ideal care, you should not expect fruit from such grapes in the coming years.

Purchased seedlings must be taken with the root closed

If this is an autumn planting, then it is recommended to pay attention to the condition of the vine; this summer's growth should be mature (not green), and at least 6-7 mm thick. Such a seedling, well protected from the cold, will survive the winter well and can bloom the next season.

In spring, grapes are planted in several ways:

dormant cuttings in early spring before sap flow begins;
already awakened vegetative cuttings (seedlings) in late May - early June;
2-3 year old seedlings before sap flow begins.

When planted using the first method, the plant takes root easier, suffers less, but most likely will not have time to produce sufficient growth to bear fruit the next year.

The second method involves planting cuttings at the end of February in plastic bottles in a warm place. By the beginning of May, the cuttings will grow up to 50 cm. When planting, carefully handle the plant without disturbing the earthen coma. Such a seedling, if well cared for next year, will most likely produce its first inflorescences. In this case, you can leave one small inflorescence on the strongest shoot and try the first berries.

2-3 year old cuttings do not always take root well, but with proper care they bear fruit the next year. In the year of planting, the inflorescences must be removed so as not to weaken the plant.

Place

The grapes are very demanding of sunlight and do not tolerate cool lowlands and the foot of the slopes. In a shaded, humid place, the grapes will quickly grow green mass; the vine will not ripen until the end of the season, will be fragile and thin, and will most likely freeze in winter. Such a vineyard may not bear fruit even in the 5-6th year. An area open on the south side, protected on the north side by buildings or trees, is suitable.

Trimming

When forming young bushes, it should be taken into account that the inflorescences are formed from the middle buds of last year's growth. Pruning too short can prevent the grapes from producing fruit in the early years. But lack of pruning can delay fruiting indefinitely. The plant spends too much energy on “unpromising” weak shoots.

Top dressing

The ripening of the vine largely depends on the amount of nutrients supplied during the growing season. Excess nitrogen stimulates large growth, but the vine “fattens”, becomes fragile and green, and flower buds form poorly.

A lack of potassium stops the development of shoots, the plant lags behind in growth, and the inflorescences fall off. The lack of organic components in the soil directly affects the taste and quality of the future harvest. On poor soils without the addition of humus and compost, grape bushes take a long time to build up their root mass and may not bear fruit for up to 5-6 years.

When does the harvest begin?

The most important question that interests all gardeners is: when do grapes begin to bear fruit after planting as seedlings? If the rules of agricultural technology are observed, grapes begin to bear fruit in the third and even in the second year of planting.

To obtain a harvest in a short time, it is advisable to purchase seedlings with a closed root system. The vine growth should be mature, approximately 5 to 7 mm thick. If such a plant is planted in the fall and carefully protected from the winter cold, it will bloom next year.

Two or three year old seedlings take root more difficult , but with proper care they begin to bear fruit in the year of planting. The fruits ripen on them for 3 months.

By storing one flowering cluster on each shoot, the fruit ripening period is reduced by 10 days.

When planting grape cuttings, fruiting occurs 4 years after the first roots appear.

If cuttings are planted in the ground in the spring before the sap begins to flow along the stems, the plant will take root faster, but during the summer it will not have time to grow enough to bear fruit next year. It will bloom in 2 years.

If the cuttings are planted in high pots in February, then in the warmth they will give an increase of 45-50 cm by the beginning of summer. When they are transferred to a permanent place in open ground, flowers will appear in the second year, but a full harvest will only be obtained in the fourth year.

Subtleties of care

How many years does a grapevine live? The period depends on the care of the shrubs. Excessive amounts of water lead to numerous growths, and there is no longer enough strength to produce fruits. If the vines do not ripen, the buds will freeze in winter. Insufficient watering also negatively affects the well-being of grapes, and therefore moderation is recommended.

Grape seedling

During watering, you can apply various fertilizers. Mineral and organic fertilizers are most often used. Organic matter is added once every 3 years, as well as phosphorus and potassium. In the spring months they limit themselves to compost, and with the onset of autumn they add manure.

Important! In spring, it is recommended to feed the grapes before winter shelters are removed from the bushes.

For plant health, fertilizing is applied three times during the growing season:

the first time in the spring months before flowering begins;
the second time, so that the ovaries are well formed before the formation of flowers;
the third time before the fruits begin to ripen.

Grapes - planting and care in open ground

While the seedlings are hardening off, dig good quality planting holes. The width, length and depth are on average 80 cm, but you can adjust the parameters according to the size of the site and the composition of the soil.

If the site has light fertile soil, planting holes for grapes can be dug very small, but if it is heavy clay soil, their size should be as large as possible.

Divide the earth dug out of the hole into three parts. The most fertile soil from the top layer, which is approximately 20-30 cm, will be placed a little later at the bottom of the hole, closer to the roots. Then the middle part of the soil will be used. And on top is the least nutritious soil from the lower layer, which after a while will again become fertile after exposure to soil bacteria.

Related article: Is it possible to combat cracking of berries? - grape

When digging a hole, carefully inspect the clods, remove pest larvae and plant roots that may interfere with the development of the vine. Then pour into the hole:

2 buckets of rotted organic matter: manure, compost;
1.5 kg of wood ash;
300 g of complex fertilizer, for example, nitroammofoska.

Mix everything thoroughly with a long stick, after pouring the top layer of fertile soil, and pour in 2 buckets of water. When the moisture is absorbed, pour soil from the middle layer of the hole.

It is better not to use nitrogen fertilizing in its pure form, otherwise the vine will begin to fatten and its ripening and resistance to frost will decrease.

If the weather was unfavorable or you did not have time to prepare the holes, grape seedlings can be saved for autumn planting. Just transplant them into containers with drainage holes and dig them into the ground halfway, watering them regularly. This will give you more time to prepare for fall planting.

What affects fruiting

There are several factors that will directly influence the appearance of the first bunches in the future. Let's look at each of them in detail.

Selecting a location

You can, of course, grow grapes on any piece of soil. But it should also be taken into account that its composition directly determines how the seedlings will feel in the ground, how they will take root and what kind of harvest they will produce in the future. It is worth mentioning that grapes are unpretentious, and any soil except saline soil is suitable for them.

The planting site should be selected on the south side; planting in lowlands should be avoided. If the bushes are planted in a lowland, then there is a possibility that cold air will accumulate in this place and the plants will be damaged by spring frosts.

You can protect the vineyard by planting it near the walls of houses and fences. Or create artificial protection for it. For example, build a wall of bricks. The most acceptable option is the north or south of the site, well lit by the sun.

A certain distance should be left between the bushes - 2 meters. This will help the seedlings quickly gain strength and correctly form a shading zone, which is needed for protection from direct rays of the sun.

Boarding time

It is possible to grow a quality crop only after it is planted correctly and at the right time. After all, a certain air temperature and weather directly affect the ability of a young plant to take root and develop.

It is necessary that the soil warms up to +15 degrees or more. The higher the air and soil temperatures, the faster the seedlings form a strong root system and take root.

Proper pruning

The time when grapes produce their first harvest can be brought closer with the help of correct and timely pruning. It is necessary for the crop to form a strong bush, which will subsequently provide future clusters with the necessary nutrients.

The first pruning should be aimed at creating the main shoots, there should be only two of them. At the beginning of autumn, part of the top is cut off or pinched. At the beginning of winter, when the vine is fully ripe, pruning is carried out by 3-4 buds, and the stepsons that form the next year above the second leaf are pinched.

The inflorescences are also removed. Caring for the layering consists of shelter, feeding and other manipulations.

Correct and timely feeding

The time when it should be carried out is spring and summer. During this period, it is best to apply only phosphorus or nitrogen fertilizers, since organic ones do not give the desired effect during this period.

Organics are introduced with the onset of autumn. Fertilizers should be placed 40-60 centimeters deep and within a radius of one meter from the trunk. You can also carry out foliar feeding, which is absorbed almost instantly. Simply spray diluted fertilizer onto the foliage.

It is possible and even necessary to use root fertilizers and external fertilizers together; this will protect the grapes from rot and fungal diseases.

For what year?

First

In the first year after planting, it is necessary to provide the plant with proper care with careful adherence to agricultural technology conditions. The main task in the first year is to grow a healthy vine and carry out high-quality pruning. These conditions determine how many years it will begin to bear fruit and whether there will be a harvest at all in the following years. At this stage of development, the flowers are cut off.

Second

In the second year, the vine begins to bear fruit, but since two-year-old grapes have 3-4 branches, the grape clusters will be large (depending on the variety), but their number will be less than that of an adult vine. With good care, you can achieve a harvest that is 2 times less than that which the vine will ripen in subsequent years.

Third

In the third year, the bush has already become stronger, the root system has grown, and fruiting will be in accordance with the yield indicators of each variety. On average, the harvest will be 15-20 kg per bush.

Yield growth increases every year during the 8-9 years of fruiting of the bush. After this, yields gradually decrease until the bush is rejuvenated.

How many years does it take for grapes to bear fruit?

Under certain temperature conditions, grapes are not a fastidious plant. Grows like an unwanted weed. And the harvest is also not bad, but small. Therefore, care and treatment with fertilizers and chemicals are needed. The most suitable grape variety for central Russia, I am convinced of this, is ISABELLA. Isabella like other varieties; Rkatsiteli-wine, Muscat-wine, Agadai-table, give a harvest in the third year of planting, and in full already in the fifth year after planting. I offer you a photo of Rkatsiteli grapes And this is Agadai grapes And here is Muscat And finally Isabella So you will have to grow those grape varieties that are adapted to the conditions of your region.

We planted grapes from cuttings and already in the third year they began to bear fruit; there were only two bunches, but that was already good. But in the fourth year they collected two buckets. As technologists say, grapes bear fruit in the fourth year, but this is not always the case; gardeners want to get the first bunch in the second year, and much more in the third, so many are developing their own methods to speed up the process.

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By region

In the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, it is recommended to grow very early grape varieties, which have a ripening period of 110 to 115 days, since later varieties will not have time to produce a harvest before the first frost.

For cultivation in Siberia, biologists have developed frost-resistant varieties that can withstand up to 40 degrees below zero.

Grapes are planted when the soil warms up to 13-15 degrees. Before planting, fill the hole with hot water to prepare the soil. The seedlings are well covered until the threat of cold weather disappears.

In central Russia, it is recommended to grow early varieties (Crystal, Yantar, Vostorg) and medium-ripening varieties (Alexander, Bashkirsky). In addition, technical varieties (Alievsky, Ermak) and universal varieties are also suitable for growing under these conditions.

Growth stimulants and nutrition

To increase the yield and immunity of a grape bush, it is extremely important to carry out regular fertilizing. For this purpose, various grape stimulants are used, consisting of biologically active substances in high concentrations.

They not only improve the quantity, but also the quality of the berries on the bunch. The following compositions are most often used - Gibberellin, Kornevin, Elin, Zircon and Riverm.

Schemes for foliar feeding and fertigation of grapes.

The application of mineral and organic fertilizers is one of the components of grapevine care. As a rule, complex purchased drugs are used. During the growing season, grapes need different substances. Nitrogen is needed at the stage of foliage and bush growth, phosphorus at the time of fruiting, and potassium is required to strengthen the immune system and prepare the plant for winter. Read how to cover grapes for the winter here.

How long does it take for a vineyard to grow?

Young vineyard - as a rule, plantings up to three years of age. The vineyards entering fruiting are plantings aged from three to five years, but mainly four-year-old. A fruit-bearing vineyard is usually planted from the age of five.

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Features of growing grapes from seed

A vineyard is created by cuttings or seedlings. There are many problems with grains, and therefore this option is rarely used in gardening. When planting seeds, you need to prepare for unforeseen situations. It is difficult to determine exactly what indicators a seedling will take. The fruits may not appear large or juicy as desired.

Planting from grains is justified in three cases:

Desire to get a new look.
The variety requires a rootstock - you can graft a cutting onto the plant, which will bring an excellent harvest.
Interest in the growing process itself.

If you create good conditions from the seed during cultivation and ensure normal temperature conditions, then after two weeks you can get ready-made sprouts.

Mandatory conditions for growing a plant from seed:

Water the seedling with water at room temperature.
The soil needs to be loosened, this must be done carefully so that the roots are not damaged.
Use a variety of fertilizers as needed.
If you grow a plant on the sunny side, shade the grapes a little. If there are drafts, remove the plant to another place.
Bushes are affected by diseases and insects. In the spring, transplant the seedlings into larger containers.

As soon as the seedlings reach a certain height, they become stronger and more frost-resistant - the grapes are moved to open soil

The breeder should pay special attention to pre-hardening. Thanks to this method, the grapes will take root better

How justified is it to grow grapes from seeds?

The “home” vine differs from the “street” vine in various ways. It is more pleasant, the berries are tender and juicy. It begins to bear fruit five years after planting in the ground. The first harvest is small, the fruits have a predominantly sourish, weakly expressed taste. Every year the berries become juicier.

There is a risk of poor growth of seedlings from seeds. With improper care, errors during care and replanting, the grapes can grow weak and unproductive.

How to make grapes bear fruit. Lack of flowering and fruiting in grapes

For an experienced gardener, growing grapevines is not a difficult task.
The longevity of this plant allows you to take the right actions to obtain a generous harvest. But there are times when the grapes do not bloom. Then the cause should be identified and care adjusted. Lack of flowering and fruiting in grapes

Rules for growing grapes

To get the desired result, the gardener must follow several rules for growing vines

It is important to select seedlings appropriate to the region. Purchase healthy and technically undamaged plants that have at least 3 root shoots and a half-meter shoot

If there are no strange spots or mechanical damage on the vine, it will take root.

Planting material is added in drops when bud growth is stopped: in early spring or late autumn. If you plan to plant several bushes, they are placed at a distance of 1.5 m from each other.

During planting, all stages are followed, starting with choosing a location, digging and fertilizing the hole, and ending with the construction of a drip irrigation system and the installation of supports. Throughout the entire period of growth and development, they follow the watering regime, be sure to trim off excess branches, treat the vine with fungicides against pests, and provide protection from frost in the cold season.

No flowering

If all recommendations for caring for grapes are followed, pay attention to how many bushes ignore the flowering period. Next, they look at the possible causes of the disease:

Excess water in the soil layer leads to the formation of specific peas on the ovaries during flowering, thinned out formation of clusters, shedding of flowers and already formed ovaries. Moisture does not allow enough air to pass into the upper layers of the soil, which leads to gradual chlorination of the leaves, which cease to produce substances necessary for the growth of the vine, and then to the death of the roots.
High air humidity also negatively affects the quality and quantity of ovaries. Heavy frequent rains during the flowering period of grapes become an obstacle to pollination, especially for functionally female varieties.
Under the influence of winter cold or spring frosts, the first fruitful shoots die. The grapes have replacement buds that bloom if the central ones die. But these second shoots bloom much weaker or produce only leaves, which also leads to the absence or significant reduction of the harvest.
Improper pruning can lead to a lack of flowers on the bushes. Grapes produce special fruiting shoots only on annual vines; they differ from the rest in color. If you cut these shoots too short or get rid of them altogether, the plant will produce only leaves from the still dormant secondary buds, so you should limit yourself to reducing the shoots to 8-10 buds.

Grapes 2nd year. What is it produced for?

Pruning grapes is the key to normal plant development and growth regulation; it is pruning that forms a full-fledged harvest.

There are 3 stages of life of a grape bush:

The first 4-5 years after planting, the grapes do not bear fruit; this period is considered the most important for the establishment of fruit vines and the formation of a proper bush. Trimming solves this problem.
The fruiting period lasts 20-25 years depending on the variety. During this period, pruning is done to maintain shape, force new vines, and eliminate diseased, old and damaged shoots.
After the active phase, a period of plant extinction begins. At this time, pruning is done to rejuvenate the vine and prolong fruiting.

Necessity of pruning:

Ensuring proper air exchange;
Improved sun exposure and heat penetration;
Increasing the size of berries and enlarging the bunch;
Making it easier to care for the bush;
Elimination of old and fattening shoots;
Improvement and rejuvenation of the bush;
Formation of new fruit shoots;
Increased productivity;
Increasing the frost resistance of the plant.

In nature, there is a “biological trick” for grapes - to break through to light and warmth. In the struggle for sunlight, the shoots stretch out, become long and try to conquer as much territory as possible.

It is up that all nutrients are sent, while the lower part of the bush does not receive enough of them. This phenomenon is called vertical polarity.

But the plant only has enough strength to form clusters for part of the shoots. Unlike fruit trees, it cannot shed excess ovaries on its own and will “pull” the bunches to the best of its ability.

If you don’t moderate the “ardor of the bush” with a pruner in your hand, it will become overgrown with dozens of long vines with a small number of fruiting clusters. The harvest will be bad.

Our task is to grow crops on all branches, including the lower tiers, and regulate the flow of nutrients.

By pruning, we disrupt the natural balance, change the polarity, and to restore the bush begins to lay down more powerful shoots and large clusters on all branches, otherwise the plant’s instinct to preserve the species is triggered.

This is why grapes are pruned.