Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Fruit and berry plants Published: October 10, 2016Last edits: November 02, 2020
- Preparing for landing
- Autumn planting rules
- When to replant gooseberries
- How to trim correctly
- Treatment
Anyone who is planning to grow gooseberries in the garden will have to decide several important questions at once: what varieties of gooseberries to prefer, in what place to allocate an area for shrubs, when to plant gooseberries - in spring or autumn, and for those who intend to plant in the autumn, relevant The question will be how to care for gooseberries in the fall after planting. You need to take these tasks seriously, because in one place, with good care, a gooseberry bush can grow and bear fruit for up to 40 years, yielding up to 10 kg of berries annually.
When to plant gooseberries in the fall
Autumn planting dates
It is common practice to plant plants in the spring. Gooseberries, like currants, are planted early - before the beginning of April. But if your area has a long and warm autumn, then do not delay planting until spring; plant gooseberries in the fall - before the cold weather begins, your seedling will have time to take root and get stronger, and with the arrival of spring it will begin to develop quickly. And the growth of overgrown roots occurs faster at lower temperatures. In what month in the fall should gooseberries be planted? It is best to do this from mid-October to the end of November, but more precise dates depend on the climate of the region.
When to plant gooseberries in the regions
For example, in the northern and central regions of Ukraine, the best time for planting is early October, and in the south of Ukraine, Crimea and Stavropol, planting is carried out from mid-October until the end of November. In the non-chernozem zone of Russia, planting begins in the second half of September and ends by October - just three weeks before the onset of frost. In Siberia, gooseberries begin to be planted a little earlier - from the beginning of September.
When is the best time to replant currants?
Plants can be transplanted to other places at different times of the year. Each case will have its own nuances. To ensure everything goes smoothly, they must be taken into account. Among other things, experienced gardeners rely on the lunar calendar. It is believed that the first 7-10 days after the new moon, that is, the time of the waxing moon, are ideal for transplantation. During this period, the vital forces of the plant are activated and it tolerates stress more easily.
Attention!
It is useful to plant onions near the bushes and not dig them up for the winter. It protects plants from insect pests. Calendula can also be used for the same purpose.
in autumn
To the question of whether it is possible to replant currant bushes in the fall, the answer is unequivocal - yes. Transplantation is done when active growth has completed, the movement of sap has slowed down, and the leaves have begun to fall off. If you start the procedure early, the currants will confuse the seasons and produce buds that will be destroyed by frost in winter. This will entail a significant loss of strength. If transplanted late, the bush will not have time to take root and the cold will damage its roots.
Planting gooseberries in the ground in autumn
Preparing for landing
To grow gooseberries, choose seedlings that are one or two years old - they adapt much faster and more easily than three or four year olds. Seedlings should have at least three skeletal roots about 15 cm long with yellow bark, fibrous roots should also be well developed, and the ground part should be one or two shoots up to 40 cm high.
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Before planting, you need to remove all the leaves from the seedling by carefully running it along the shoots from bottom to top with a loosely closed gloved hand. Then you should cut off damaged or dry roots, and then put the roots in a clay mash with the addition of a root formation stimulator. Make a mash for 15-20 seedlings according to this recipe: 1 kg of chernozem and 1 kg of clay, 1-2 bags of Kornevin, 6 g of Aktar are diluted with three liters of water and mixed thoroughly.
Then plant gooseberries
In a small summer cottage, gooseberries are usually planted along the fence or between fruit trees, but the latter option is not the best - the roots of the trees dry out the soil. The best predecessors for gooseberries are row crops - early potatoes, beets, peas, beans, as well as lupine and clover as green manure. Gooseberries cannot be grown after currants and raspberries. Do not plant gooseberries next to currants, because they have common diseases and pests.
Soil for gooseberries
Gooseberries need more elevated and illuminated places than currants. It loves slightly acidic or neutral (pH about 6), rich in humus, breathable chernozems and loams, in which groundwater is located no higher than at a depth of 1.5 m. Soils that have not been cleared of weed roots, in particular wheatgrass, are not suitable for gooseberries. will do.
Choosing a place for bushes and preparing the site
A competent choice of planting site is of decisive importance for the normal growth and good fruiting of the shrub; the choice of the future location must be approached with all responsibility. Gooseberries feel most comfortable in open areas illuminated by the sun most of the day. The culture does not like piercing northern winds and drafts, so it is better to provide protection from them in the form of a building wall or fence.
Gooseberries love sunny places, protected from gusty winds.
Despite all its moisture-loving properties, gooseberries do not tolerate swampiness and close groundwater. Excessive dampness is fraught with the development of fungal pathologies and rot. It is preferable to plant shrubs in medium-density humus loams with an acid-base balance close to neutral (pH 6.5–7). Heavy clay soils are loosened by adding sand. A clay substrate is added to sandstones, making the soil more moisture-absorbing. It is better to check the acidity level in advance using litmus paper (kits are sold in gardening stores). If necessary, during digging, deoxidizing agents (dolomite flour, fluff lime, etc.) are added to the ground.
Slightly elevated areas with deep groundwater are suitable for gooseberries.
The best predecessors for gooseberries are: beets, potatoes, legumes and green crops. After currants, both black and colored (white, red), as well as raspberries, it is strongly not recommended to plant gooseberry bushes, because the soil after them is already extremely depleted and deprived of almost all the necessary nutrients and microelements. In addition, these berry crops have common insect pests and diseases that can cause irreparable harm to a weakened and fragile plant.
You should not plant gooseberries next to currants or raspberries, as they have common pests and diseases
The area needs to be dug up in advance, trying to remove the rhizomes of perennial weeds from the ground as much as possible.
How to plant gooseberries in the fall
Autumn planting rules
Two weeks before planting, dig up the area under the gooseberries to the depth of a spade bayonet, carefully picking out the roots of the weeds with your hands. Dig holes for the seedlings measuring approximately 40x40x40 cm, being careful not to mix the top fertile layer of soil with the bottom infertile one. Fill the holes two-thirds full with a soil mixture consisting of topsoil and compost, adding 200 g of superphosphate and 60 g of potassium sulfate or 300 g of wood ash for each plant. Place a third of the fertile soil in a mound in the center of the hole and leave until planting so that the soil settles.
How to plant gooseberries in the fall? In general, the order of autumn planting is no different from spring. Pour half a bucket of water into each hole, dip the roots of the seedling in the mash, then place it on a mound and fill it first with the remains of fertile soil, and then, if there is not enough of it, complete the sealing with soil from the bottom layer. As a result, the root collar of the seedling should be underground at a depth of 4-5 cm. Compact the surface around the bush and water it generously. Mulch the tree trunk circle with dry soil, humus or peat.
With the bush method of planting gooseberries, the distance between seedlings is left at least 2.5 m, and the bushes are planted both along a line and in a checkerboard pattern.
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Optimal planting pattern
To obtain the maximum yield from one bush, the best planting scheme is 100 cm between seedlings, 200 cm between rows. If we are talking about a large number of bushes (more than 30), the plantings can be compacted by reducing the distance between bushes to 60 cm, between rows - to 120 cm. In this way, you can achieve a larger yield of berries from one area.
The planting hole should be one and a half to two times larger in size than the root system of the seedling, but not less than 40 cm in depth.
A distance of at least 1 meter is maintained from the fence to the bushes. The optimal distance to outbuildings or a residential building is 3 meters.
Transplanting gooseberries in the fall to a new place
When to replant gooseberries
Sometimes you have to do some redevelopment at your summer cottage or in your garden - cutting down trees and replanting bushes, and it’s better to do this in spring or autumn. The timing of gooseberry transplantation practically coincides with the timing of its primary planting: in the spring it is March, and in the fall it is September or October.
How to replant gooseberries in the fall? After you have chosen a suitable place for it and prepared the soil, cut off old and unnecessary branches on the bush, leaving no more than seven young, healthy and strong shoots, which you shorten by one third before digging. Then the bush is dug around the perimeter of the crown projection, cutting off thick roots if necessary.
Using a crowbar and a shovel, the bush is removed from the soil and placed on oilcloth or a piece of polyethylene, transferred to a new place and planted in a hole prepared in advance in the manner we described. The roots do not need to be treated with mash, but it is advisable to pour 2-4 buckets of water into the hole before planting (the amount depends on the age and size of the bush). Place the bush on a mound in the earthen slurry and fill the voids with soil, pressing it down firmly. After planting, water the bush again, and when the water is absorbed, mulch the tree trunk circle.
Why is a transplant necessary?
Most often, red and black currant bushes are replanted when they have grown greatly and sent out a large number of shoots. This procedure allows you to propagate a plant and get several instead of one unit. In some cases, such a transplant helps solve the problem of insufficient space.
Overgrown specimens can obscure paths and prop up fences. They interfere with the full growth and development of neighboring plantings. Often the main purpose of replanting is to move the plant to a more favorable location. For example, from depleted and heavy soil to loose and nutritious soil. Sometimes transplantation is part of the treatment of diseases.
Autumn pruning of gooseberries
How to trim correctly
Formative and sanitary pruning of gooseberries is carried out in the spring, after wintering, but should gooseberries be pruned in the fall? On our website there is a voluminous article on gooseberry care, which describes in detail pruning gooseberries in the fall for beginning gardeners. But we are ready to briefly remind you how to prune gooseberries in the fall. Young bushes planted in the ground in October should be trimmed immediately after planting, leaving no more than 5 cm of shoots above the surface. Adult bushes are shortened by a third before autumn replanting.
In general, pruning gooseberry bushes in the fall includes sanitary cleaning of plants from unnecessary branches and anti-aging pruning. The scheme for pruning gooseberries in the fall is as follows: diseased, damaged, competing and thickening branches of the bush are completely removed, as are young green shoots that are unlikely to survive the winter; old black branches also need to be removed, but if the bush consists almost entirely of such branches, you cannot cut them all at the same time - no more than a third can be removed in one year. Sections thicker than 7 mm must be treated with garden varnish.
If you carry out sanitary pruning in the fall, you will free the plant from the need to feed unnecessary branches in the winter.
How to choose the best seedling?
If you have the opportunity to choose a seedling, the following would be ideal:
- leaves without spots;
- there is no white coating on the cuttings and roots;
- the bark on the branch is not damaged;
- root system with an abundance of suction roots (can be checked with an open root system);
- the leaves have not fully blossomed (at the bud stage);
- roots at least 20-25 cm long;
- a young bush has 2-3 strong shoots about 30 cm long;
- seedling age 2 years.
If the branches are uneven, this is not a defect. In recent years, sellers who respect their work and the work of gardeners have been selling seedlings with a closed root system (in bags or disposable pots). Such a seedling shows the best survival rate.
Before planting, the seedling is shortened, leaving 5-8 buds.
Autumn gooseberry care
Treatment
How to care for gooseberries in the fall? At this time of year, the plant needs watering, weeding and loosening of the soil in the tree trunk circle. Gooseberry bushes in the fall need to be treated against diseases and pests and prepared for winter. Autumn processing of gooseberries is of particular importance, since it determines how the plant will survive the winter and whether it will produce a good harvest next year.
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But before treating gooseberries in the fall against pests or diseases, you need to carefully collect fallen leaves and old mulch, remove all debris, weed the weeds, dig up the soil in the area and create a soil cushion around the bushes to protect against pests and diseases within the radius of the crown.
How to treat gooseberry bushes in the fall? To protect plants from fungal diseases, dilute 50 g of copper oxychloride in 10 liters of water or use one to three percent Bordeaux mixture for spraying. Some gardeners prefer to treat the garden with three percent iron sulfate. For pests (aphids, sawflies, moths), gooseberries are treated with a solution of 20 g of Karbofos in 10 liters of water.
Diseases and pests of gooseberries - how to fight
Watering
In the fall, water-recharging watering of gooseberries is carried out, for which a 15 cm deep depression is dug around each bush along the perimeter of the crown, into which water heated in the sun is poured - from 10 to 30 liters for each plant, depending on its age and size. If the autumn is rainy, winter watering will not be necessary.
What to feed
Fertilizing gooseberries in the fall is carried out while digging up the soil under the bushes. It includes 20 g of potassium and 30 g of phosphorus fertilizers per plant.
Mulching gooseberries
The gooseberry root circle is covered with mulch in the spring or immediately after planting. But in preparation for winter, the old mulching material is removed, and before frost sets in, a 10 cm layer of peat or humus is placed under each bush - an organic gooseberry fertilizer, which, in addition to nutrition, will provide the roots with protection from frost.
Growing gooseberries in the garden from A to Z
Why replant gooseberries?
Moving the bush to another location may be necessary for the following reasons:
- the site was reconstructed in connection with the construction or planting of other garden crops;
- the place where the plant is located is initially unsuitable (too wet, not enough light, etc.), as a result of which it bears fruit poorly and often gets sick;
- neighboring plants have grown too much over time and prevent the gooseberry from developing normally, or the bush itself puts pressure on neighboring plants, but is difficult to move;
- natural aging of a bush that needs rejuvenation;
- The bush remained in one place for a very long time, as a result of which the soil became sterile.
Sometimes gooseberry bushes grow and interfere with other crops
We planted two honeysuckle bushes and two gooseberry bushes nearby. One of the honeysuckle bushes is very tall, although in reality it shouldn't be that way. Gooseberries grew poorly in the shade and produced few berries. I had to move the mature gooseberry bush to another place, since due to its size it would have caused much more trouble to its competitor.
Preparing gooseberries for winter
Actually, caring for gooseberries in the fall has one single goal - to prepare the bush for winter. And if you have done pruning, weeding, digging, winter watering, fertilizing, made a soil cushion, laid mulch and treated the bushes and the ground under them from pests and diseases, your gooseberries are ready for wintering. All that remains is to throw it under the bushes when the snow falls, but if there is no snow yet and the frosts are getting worse, cover the bushes with a dense covering material, for example, agrospan.
Features and benefits of joint planting
It is no secret that species growing nearby are constantly fighting for survival, competing for lighting, land, and nutrient consumption. At the same time, stronger and more demanding plants try to “win” all the best, while weak ones require more attention from humans.
When planting currants and gooseberries together, similar cultivation and harvesting techniques are followed. This is a big advantage for gardeners, as the amount of additional work is reduced. Seedlings are processed and planted using the same technology. The soil is fertilized with a common set of components. Since the crops are equally frost-resistant, their preparation for wintering will be similar.
A big advantage is the fact that crops bloom almost in the same period, and cross-pollination significantly increases the yield of all plants.
Preparatory stages
In order for the transplant to go smoothly, you need to choose the right place, select suitable soil and prepare the planting material itself.
Transplant technology
If the shrub transplant procedure is carried out according to all the rules, adaptation to the new place will take place quickly, and immunity will not be affected.
Choosing the ideal place for a bush
Growing a plant in the right place will bring little trouble, and the harvest will be high-quality and plentiful. To plant fruit bushes, choose a bright, flat area, preferably on the south or southwest side. In these places, the earth is warmed up faster by the sun, the soil is well breathable and water does not accumulate.
Areas where potatoes, buckwheat, legumes, beets, and corn used to grow are well suited for currants.
It is not advisable to plant in a place where there are a lot of weeds or the roots of perennial plants are intertwined. You cannot plant currants in lowlands where water accumulates. This unfavorable factor contributes to the development of fungal diseases and rot. It is also impossible to plant too high, since cold winds blow at higher elevations and water quickly evaporates from the surface of the earth.
Preparing the soil and planting hole
The site chosen for replanting is dug up to a depth of 38 cm in early spring and a fertilizer complex consisting of compost, superphosphate and potassium chloride is applied. Light, nutritious soil with good aeration and neutral acidity is suitable for planting currants. The ideal option is a loamy soil composition.
In August they begin digging the planting hole. Its depth should be approximately 42 cm and width - 62 cm. For tall varieties of currants, the pit dimensions are larger. The top part of the soil removed from the pit is mixed with a small part of rotted manure, wood ash and superphosphate. The resulting fertile substrate is poured into the bottom of the hole and watered with warm water.
Preparation of the bush
Before planting, prepare not only the soil, but also the bush itself. Preparatory work begins several weeks before transplantation. All old and damaged stems are cut out, and young shoots are shortened.
Trimming before the procedure
During replanting, the area of the root system is significantly reduced, as a result, fewer nutritional components will reach the upper part of the bush. Therefore, 2.5 weeks before transplanting, it is necessary to trim secondary branches that do not participate in fruiting. At the same time, the plant rejuvenates.
Strong branches grow at the base of the bush; the fruiting zone begins at a height of 35 cm. There is weak branching here, the shoots are short, but there are flower buds on them.
The upper part of the bush also produces a large number of fruit buds, but they are weaker and the berries are small. Therefore, the third part of the main branches is cut off, while the total height of the bush should be 47 cm. You cannot combine plant replanting with pruning branches. This creates additional stress for the culture, and therefore immunity adaptation rates decrease.
See also
Description and characteristics of green currant varieties, cultivation and careRead
Landing
First you need to dig up the bush from the old place. To do this, dig a 32 cm deep ditch around the trunk area at a distance of 40 cm. Then you should pull the plant at the base. The roots that hold the bush in the ground are cut with a shovel.
Advice. To avoid damaging the plant during work and transportation, the branches are tied with rope.
The dug up shrub is placed on a large canvas and delivered to the intended planting site:
- First, the roots of the plant are inspected. Dried, damaged branches are removed. After which the roots are placed for disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate for 16 minutes.
- Shrubs are placed in the prepared hole in the center, root branches are distributed and covered with earth. Make sure that the root collar is 5 cm above the ground surface.
- When filling the hole with soil, it is important that no voids form. They increase the risk of developing rot. In order to prevent the formation of voids, the plant is shaken periodically.
- The soil around the trunk is lightly compacted and a groove is formed for irrigation. For the first watering, take two buckets of warm, settled water. Water is poured into the hole slowly, waiting until it is completely absorbed.
The last step is to mulch the tree trunk soil with peat, humus or turf soil.
Distinctive features of different types of transplants
Each currant variety differs not only in the color of the fruit and growth form, but also in the requirements for soil, environmental conditions and care.
black currant
The black variety of currant is less demanding. Almost any soil is suitable for planting it, and you can choose the northern part of the site. A high yield can be harvested even under temporary shading.
red currant
Red currants make more demands on the soil. The soil should be fertile, loose, with good aeration. Soil with a high sand content is ideal.
For red currants, you need to dig a deeper hole. This is done to establish a drainage layer. Red currant roots do not like excess moisture, as their resistance to fungal diseases is low.
