All methods of planting tomatoes for seedlings and open ground

When to plant tomatoes for seedlings

Tomato seedlings are ready for transplanting into beds 55–65 days after the seeds sprout. The specific time is determined taking into account two factors - the climate in the region and growing conditions. If tomatoes are cultivated in open ground in a temperate climate, they are planted for seedlings in mid-March. In the southern regions you can do this at the end of February. And in “risky farming zones”, where frosts at the end of spring are not something out of the ordinary, wait until the last ten days of March or the first days of April. The timing of planting seedlings for greenhouse tomatoes is shifted back by 12–20 days.

The optimal timing for planting tomato seedlings in the ground is very important - problems with adaptation arise both if you rush and if you wait too long

Growing conditions

If we want to plant tomato seedlings and get healthy tomato bushes and high-quality fruits, we should grow them ourselves. In May, seedlings are planted in open ground. Young seedlings require good air humidity and fairly high temperatures. Tomatoes grow best in sandy loam soils that retain moisture well.

Tomatoes are a thermophilic vegetable, often grown in country houses and gardens. Tomato seeds are sown in early spring. This crop requires constant conditions during seed germination. It is worth preparing planting material in advance in order to plant already grown, hardened and healthy plants in a permanent place. To grow strong seedlings, certain conditions must be observed.

Landing dates

In order for the bushes to be in good shape by the time of planting, you need to know when and how to sow correctly.

• sowing of seeds is carried out in March;
• Ready seedlings are planted in the ground in mid-May.

The period for growing homemade tomato seedlings, depending on the date of cultivation, is 35-75 days. Sowing tomatoes too early and a long period of growth of young plants leads to their overgrowth. Overgrown seedlings take longer and are less accepted, delaying fruiting and reducing yield. Sowing of seedlings should be carried out 1.5-2 months before planting at a permanent place of cultivation in a given region, or in closed ground.

For the northern regions of Russia, the date of planting seedlings is shifted:

• indoors - tomatoes are planted in the second half of February - the first half of March;
• for growing tomatoes under film - March 1-20;
• for planting tomatoes in open ground - late March - early April.

Lunar calendar - when to plant tomatoes for seedlings in 2021

Attention! According to the lunar calendar, 12 hours before and after the onset of the new moon and full moon, it is recommended to avoid work related to sowing, planting, and transplanting tomatoes.

Place of cultivation

In the room with potted tomatoes, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature above 23 degrees Celsius. Illumination of seedlings is necessary.

A window sill is a good choice, but you need to be careful not to dry out the soil from the sun or heat from radiators located below.

Temperature

Optimal temperatures for germination and cultivation of tomato seedlings depend on the stage of seedling development.

Table. Air temperature when growing seedlings at different growth periods

Proper care of seedlings consists mainly of maintaining the correct temperature and humidity and providing enough light.

On very sunny and warm days, you can allow the temperature to rise a few degrees higher. There is no need to be afraid of over-stretching your tomato plants. On a clear day, it may be necessary to water seedlings placed on a south-facing windowsill more often to prevent the plants from wilting and the substrate from drying out, as this can lead to drying of the roots and limiting plant growth.

Attention! Since small tomato sprouts do not like changes in temperature, you should not open the window near which the young seedlings are standing.

Preparing tomato seeds for planting

Before sowing tomato seeds, check their quality, namely germination:

• with good germination, you can continue growing seedlings;
• if it’s bad, you should return the seeds to the manufacturer and (or) sow others so as not to waste precious time.

Sowing seeds must be disinfected by soaking in water at a temperature of 50-55 degrees C for 20 minutes and treated with preparations approved in agriculture - most often these are herbal preparations, including organic ones. You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate.

Suitable soil

Basic requirements of the culture for the substrate:

• looseness;
• good water and breathability;
• moderate nutritional value;
• neutral or slightly acidic pH.

Store-bought soil is suitable in all respects for growing Solanaceae seedlings. But it, not to mention self-prepared soil, must be disinfected before use. Choose the method that is most convenient for you - freezing, steaming, frying in the oven, treatment with a solution of deep purple potassium permanganate, iodine (3 drops per 10 l).

Store-bought substrate for seedlings is considered safe, but it’s better to play it safe and additionally sterilize it

What can you mix the substrate for tomato seedlings from:

• coarse sand, turf soil, peat (1:1:1);
• humus, turf soil, sand, perlite or vermiculite (6:6:8:1);
• peat, sand, sifted wood ash, crushed chalk or dolomite flour (10:5:1).

Video: how to prepare soil for seedlings yourself

Signs of healthy and unhealthy seedlings

Tomato seedlings should have a not too thick, but elastic stem with 6-7 well-developed leaves of a color characteristic of this variety. It is optimal for the bushes to form 10-15 leaves. Seedlings may be susceptible to some diseases.

Signs of improper care and disease of tomato seedlings:

• Why do seedlings turn yellow? It is bad if the plants are light in color. Light green leaves indicate abnormal irrigation, too low nitrogen nutrition.
• Often, amateur vegetable growers cannot understand why the lower leaves of seedlings dry out. A common cause is overwatering. The photo below shows a tomato seedling that was subjected to excessive watering - the lower leaves of the tomato turn yellow and dry out. Perhaps the reason lies in the lack of drainage - the soil at the top is dry, and at the bottom it is flooded with water.
• If the leaves are too dark, this indicates drying out of the soil and excess fertilizer.
• The root system should occupy the entire pot evenly.
• Healthy seedlings should not have damage to the bush or symptoms of diseases on the stems or leaves.

To control pests, especially when growing seedlings in greenhouses and greenhouses, it is worth hanging sticky yellow insect traps.

Various symptoms (withered leaves, purple leaves, seedlings falling, withering, black leg on tomatoes) indicate the occurrence of various diseases of tomato seedlings, which are described in a separate article.

Pre-planting seed preparation

Most gardeners prefer to buy seeds, but if you are growing a variety rather than a hybrid of tomatoes, you can collect them yourself:

1. Wait for the fruit to fully ripen on a healthy, productive bush.
2. Cut the tomato, carefully scrape out the contents, and keep at room temperature for 1-2 days.
3. Wash the seeds and dry them naturally until they flow.
4. Store planting material in a dark, cool place with low humidity, poured into paper bags or small linen bags.

Collecting seeds only makes sense for tomato varieties; in hybrids, characteristic features are lost during generative reproduction

The first thing to do before planting is to inspect the seeds and discard those that are too small and clearly deformed. Next, germination is checked. The seeds are poured into a container with salted water (a tablespoon per 0.5 liter). “Empty” (without embryos) are easier, they float within 3-5 minutes.

Soaking seeds in a salt solution is a simple and reliable way to discard those that definitely will not sprout

As part of pre-planting preparation, gardeners practice the following activities:

1. Warming up. Seeds in a linen bag are placed 10–15 cm from a heating radiator or other heat source for a month. Heat brings them out of the “hibernation” state, activating metabolic processes .
2. Etching. Disinfection is necessary to prevent fungal diseases. There are many means for disinfection; the simplest and most affordable option is a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3–0.5 g per liter of water). The seeds are soaked in it for 4–5 hours. Any biofungicides (Fitoverm, Alirin-B, Baikal-EM) are also suitable. Processing time is reduced to 15–20 minutes.

   Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most common and affordable disinfectants

3. Treatment with biostimulants. Both store-bought and folk remedies provide a positive effect (faster and more widespread germination, better plant immunity). Processing time 2–4 hours. Of the store-bought growth regulators, gardeners recommend Epin, Zircon, Energen . Folk remedies - aloe juice, honey diluted with water, wood ash infusion. The pilled seeds do not need to be processed, as well as those on which it is written “Do not eat, the seeds are intended for sowing!” — the manufacturer has already done this for you.
4. Bubbling. Oxygen-saturated water improves germination; subsequently, plants from treated seeds have better yields. Seeds wrapped in cloth or gauze are immersed in a container with warm (40–45°C) water and the aquarium compressor is turned on. Processing time is 12–18 hours.
5. Hardening. After disinfection and treatment with biostimulants, ungerminated (only slightly sprouted) seeds are mixed with sand or peat chips, kept warm during the day for a week, and placed in the refrigerator at night . This “shock therapy” is considered by some gardeners to be useful for increasing the immunity of future plants and their resistance to the vagaries of the weather.
6. Germination. The seeds are kept in a constantly damp cloth or on cotton pads for 4–5 days. But you can’t “drown” them in a puddle. Germinated seeds germinate faster and more efficiently than ungerminated ones.

   During the process of germinating tomato seeds, do not allow the tissue to dry out or, conversely, fill them with too much water.

Mandatory stages of preparation are rejection, disinfection, treatment with biostimulants (alternatively, bubbling) and germination. Warming up takes a lot of time; not all gardeners consider “shock therapy” in the form of temperature changes to be beneficial for seeds.

Containers for planting tomato seedlings

There are several common types of seedling containers for sowing tomatoes. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and therefore any gardener selects exactly those that he likes best, and also based on his capabilities. The main thing is that the planting container has drainage holes to drain excess water. Or it is worth pouring a drainage layer (for example, from expanded clay) onto the bottom of the container.

Plastic cassettes are cells of the same size fastened together.

Peat cups. This type of container is very popular among gardeners, as it is made from environmentally friendly materials.

Peat tablets are compressed peat with nutrients placed in a special mesh.

Plastic cups are considered the most common types of containers for sowing tomatoes for seedlings.

Disembarkation methods

Some of the methods, at first glance, seem very strange, but upon closer examination it turns out that they are not without undoubted advantages.

Into boiling water

The method is suitable for seeds of plants with a dense shell (tomatoes and other nightshades are one of them), it allows you to simultaneously soften it, accelerating the emergence of seedlings, and disinfect the soil:

1. Sprinkle the soil with hot water (75–80°C). You cannot use hot boiling water; the seeds will simply cook.
2. Immediately plant the seeds, deepening them to 1–1.5 cm.
3. Cover the container with film and place it on the radiator for 30–40 minutes. Then transfer to a warm room.

Planting tomato seeds in boiling water allows you to simultaneously soften the hard shell and disinfect the soil

Video: planting tomato seeds in boiling water

In peat tablets

The tablets are available in different sizes (2.5–7 cm in diameter) and retain their shape thanks to a mesh “wrap”. For tomatoes, choose tablets at least 5 cm in diameter to avoid picking and damaging the roots when transplanting into the ground:

1. Place the tablets in a deep container and pour warm water into the bottom.
2. Let them swell and plant one seed at a time in the existing holes.
3. Cover the container with film or glass.

Peat tablets are quite expensive, so this is not an option if seedlings for your own plot are grown in large volumes

Video: tomato seedlings in peat tablets

Toilet paper instead of soil (Moscow style)

Tomatoes do not require large doses of nutrients. When grown in this way, you can evaluate the roots and select the most powerful and developed seedlings for transplanting into the ground:

1. Cut a strip of polyethylene or cellophane 2-3 cm wider than toilet paper.
2. Lay the paper on top of it in 3-4 layers, moistening it with water from a spray bottle.
3. Stepping back 1–1.5 cm from the top edge, place the seeds at intervals of 4–5 cm.
4. Roll the strip into a tight roll and secure with a thin elastic band.
5. With the edge where there are no seeds, place the rolls in a container with water (a layer 0.5–1 cm thick).
6. Create a “greenhouse effect”.

Several rolls of toilet paper take up minimal space on the windowsill - much less than the same number of tomato seedlings in individual pots

Video: germinating seeds in toilet paper

In vermiculite

The main advantage is the ability to keep the roots intact when picking and transplanting into the ground:

1. Pour vermiculite with a heated (35–40°C) biostimulant solution (2–3 drops per liter of water). Mix well to wet the entire substrate.
2. Place 1–1.5 tablespoons of vermiculite in small glasses and seal. Place the seeds on top.
3. Fill with approximately the same volume of substrate and compact again.

Tomato seedlings grown in vermiculite can be easily removed from a common container without damaging the roots

In hydrogel

The synthetic chemically neutral polymer has a high moisture capacity, minimizing the risk of drying out the seedlings:

1. Pour water over the dry hydrogel and wait until it turns into jelly-like crystals.
2. Drain off excess moisture, mix the hydrogel with soil (1:5).
3. Spread the seeds on the surface, do not cover with soil. Cover with film.

Hydrogel in its pure form is used for germinating seeds, and mixed with soil for cultivating seedlings

Video: personal experience of growing seedlings in hydrogel

In coconut substrate

The procedure is simple:

1. Fill the substrate briquette with water. They should approximately double in size in 2-3 hours.
2. Fill small containers with “soil” and plant the seeds as usual.

When soaking the coconut substrate, add water gradually - 1-1.5 liters as it is absorbed

In cardboard egg trays

Very light free container, but small, so it does not allow you to avoid picking seedlings:

1. Fill the cells with soil, cut off the lower part.
2. Plant the seeds one at a time, cover with film until shoots emerge.

Cardboard egg boxes can successfully replace small peat pots

Similarly, eggshells can be used as individual pots.

When planting seedlings in the ground, you don’t need to remove them from the shell - the roots themselves will break it

Video: seedlings in egg cells

Picking and transplanting into large pots

First, the shoot produces its first tiny leaves. Then the first true leaves appear, which lead to the growth of the plant. At this stage, you need to replant the plants; without picking, the root system develops worse.

Transplant principles

After the first true leaves appear, the tomatoes are transplanted one plant at a time into one larger container. These can be plastic or peat pots, or other convenient containers.

Both the shape and the material from which the pots are made are important when growing tomatoes.

The choice of the type of pot is carried out on the following principles:

• ceramic pots cannot be used because they are difficult to disinfect;
• cylindrical pots are ideal, made from plastic or special cylinders, the shape of which allows tomatoes to freely grow roots;
• individual pots should have a diameter of 8-10 cm;
• if you choose several pots, it is better to look for containers with a chamber volume of 25-90 cm³ - the plant will have an even, well-developed root system;
• Tomatoes grown in large pots begin to bear fruit earlier, but if you want a late harvest, you can use smaller containers.

Tomato pots are filled with the substrate that was used to sow the seeds. Pots that are too small can quickly deplete nutrients, which can lead to poor plant growth.

Seedlings can be thinned out by removing weak seedlings and leaving one plant in one container. But it's important not to overdo it.

Plants placed in individual pots or containers have their own compact root systems in their own soil ball.

Picking tomato seedlings

Picking is necessary when the seeds are sown in a common container and growth and development begin to progress. In other words, the box is too crowded and the plants are too densely sown. The theory states that a plant, such as a tomato, should produce two pairs of true leaves by the time it picks. Of course, theory is theory, but practice is that when seedlings become too dense or the stems stretch too quickly, they need to be transplanted into individual containers in any case. We will tell you below how and when to plant tomato seedlings.

For picking, they usually use the remaining soil that was purchased for sowing. Part of the substrate always remains, it works great in subsequent stages. The substrate is placed in prepared individual pots, carefully compacted, preventing subsequent sedimentation of the soil.

In subsequent stages of cultivation, it is necessary to have a deeper vessel depth and amount of substrate in order to provide the root system with the appropriate conditions for proper formation and development.

Containers must be clean. If you don’t have time to wash old pots, it’s better to use disposable ones.

Often gardeners are sorry to part with any seedlings, so amateurs give even the ugliest and most unsuccessful sprouts a chance. About an hour before transplanting, the seedlings should be carefully watered. The substrate should be moist, but not wet, to facilitate its release from the previous container.

When picking, it is extremely important to limit the loss of leaves and stems. If anyone has any doubts: throw away broken, torn, broken plants. When picking, hold the rod as close to the base as possible.

The resulting seedling is placed in a hole in the soil; it is better to make a hole with your finger, carefully sprinkle with soil and press. When picking, the holes cannot be too deep, and the seedlings should grow after transplantation at the same depth as before.

Seedling care

Caring for tomato seedlings also includes creating optimal conditions for them:

• Temperature. Before emergence – 27–30°C, after – 22–26°C during the day and 18–22°C at night.
• Lighting. Ungerminated seeds do not need light; the optimal length of daylight for seedlings is 12–14 hours.
• Watering. When the seeds have not yet sprouted, the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle, keeping it slightly moist. Seedlings are watered only at the root, every 3–4 days.

  Tomato seedlings are watered so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves - you will need a watering can with a long spout or other similar device

• Feeding. They begin to apply two weeks after seed germination with an interval of 15–20 days. Use special organomineral fertilizers for seedlings or those intended for Solanaceae in half concentration.

  It is undesirable to use natural organic matter to feed seedlings - this is a potential source of disease spread

• Dive. Experienced gardeners recommend immediately planting tomatoes in individual containers, avoiding this stage. The roots of the seedlings are thin and easy to damage.

How to plant tomatoes correctly. Step-by-step instruction

Good seedlings will be obtained if the following conditions are met:

1. Soil preparation. Make a mixture in advance of three parts humus, four parts sand, three parts garden soil. Sift and steam disinfect. This can be done with purchased land as a guarantee. By the time the seeds are sowed, the microflora should be restored. This takes about half a month.
2. Using the minerals vermiculite and perlite, ensure water permeability and saturation of the earth with air.
3. Prepare lamps for illumination when daylight is still short (seedlings require bright lighting 14-16 hours a day).
4. Until sprouts appear, maintain the temperature at 22-25 degrees.

Next, you should start sowing, which is carried out 50-60 days before planting the plants in the ground.

• Step one . Fill the containers with moist soil, not reaching 1 cm to the top. Compact and smooth the soil.
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• Step two. Make grooves to a depth of 1 cm, with an indentation of 3-4 cm. Place the seeds, preferably two centimeters from each other, so that the roots do not intertwine.
• Step three. Cover with a layer of soil two seeds high.
• Step four. Cover with transparent material and place in a warm place.

• Step five. Paste a leaflet indicating the planting time and plant variety. Later indicate the germination date.

You can watch the whole process in more detail in the following video:

Marking beds and preparing holes in open ground

Before planting, the bed is well loosened. The spacing between plants depends on their size. The average value is 50–60 cm with a row spacing of 60–70 cm. You can save space if you plant tomatoes in a checkerboard pattern.

When choosing a tomato planting scheme, you need to focus mainly on the dimensions of the bushes

The depth of the hole is up to 3–5 cm. 2–3 seeds are planted in each hole. When planting, add 2-3 pinches of wood ash, a little onion peel and half a teaspoon of phosphorus and potassium mineral fertilizers.

Proper planting of tomato seeds in the garden

Tomatoes are among the crops that tolerate picking well. Moreover, it has been established that such a procedure has a beneficial effect on the development of the root system. In this regard, seeds are usually sown in garden boxes with a high density, and after 2 weeks they are pricked, giving the seedlings more living space. Algorithm for the classic procedure on how to sow tomatoes for gardening at home:

• for sowing, we use a small garden box and pour pre-prepared soil into it with a layer of 6 cm;
• we make the surface of the soil smooth and compact it a little;
• Using a ruler or knife, we make seeding furrows 1.5 cm deep and maintaining a distance of 5 cm between them;
• place the seeds in the grooves at intervals of 2.5 - 3 cm;
• sprinkle the crops with soil;
• if there is snow, put a small layer on top, and if there is no snow, water the boxes with crops, avoiding soil erosion;
• cover the box with film and move it to a warm room with a temperature from +24 to +28 degrees;
• shoots will appear on the 5th or 6th day, before this the crops do not need lighting;
• to avoid pulling out the shoots, you need to sharply reduce the air temperature: during the day to +17, and at night to +15 degrees;
• After a week, we begin to gradually increase the air temperature, bringing it to the following parameters: at night – 16, and during the day – 20 degrees Celsius.

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Experimenting with tomato growing methods can help you find the one that best suits your region's climate and weather conditions. It is more advisable to place them on 2-3 bushes and then compare the results.

In a warm bed

Allows you to get an earlier harvest due to rapid warming of the soil in the spring. A box is made from boards or slate up to 60 cm high. Place it in a sunny place from north to south. The box is filled in layers:

1. Drainage (branches, wood chips, crushed stone, gravel) – up to 10 cm.
2. Organics (food waste, fallen leaves, plant debris, rotted manure). To speed up the decomposition process, organic matter is watered with a solution of nitrogen fertilizers (25–30 g per 10 l) – 15–20 cm.
3. Garden soil. It is poured after 7–10 days, after compacting the organic matter well. The thickness of the soil layer is at least 25 cm.

The rotting organic matter under the soil layer provides the roots with the necessary warmth, but if the soil layer is too thin, they will simply “burn out.”

Video: do-it-yourself warm bed

In the trench

The trench width is about 60 cm, the interval between them is 1.5 m, the length is arbitrary. They are oriented from north to south and dug about two weeks before planting the tomatoes. A ridge is placed in the middle, in which a groove is formed. It is spilled with water and covered with polyethylene, fixing the film.

How long does it take for tomatoes to germinate?

Every summer resident has at least once encountered a situation where seeds sown in the ground take longer than usual to germinate or do not germinate at all. Dealing with the reasons for the long germination is not at all difficult, and by eliminating the cause, you will soon receive the long-awaited sprouts.

One of the most popular questions among gardeners is how many days does it take for seedlings to sprout. We answer:

On average, seeds germinate from 7 to 10 days , provided that the seed has not been treated with preparations for long-term storage.

The seeds do not germinate for a long time for some reasons:

1. Planting too deep in the ground . Planting is done to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The seeds should be only slightly covered with soil to ensure air circulation. It is best to remove some of the topsoil if you sow deep.
2. Incorrect temperature conditions, insufficient humidity or its excess . Before germination, cover the container with the sown seeds with cellophane to avoid dry soil, and transfer to a room with an air temperature of +23...+28 degrees Celsius. Water as needed. Do not keep boxes of crops on windowsills.
3. Dense soil . The soil for planting must be loose enough to ensure the necessary gas exchange. In this case, it is necessary to calcinate it in advance, or freeze it and treat it with fungicides so that it does not cause infection and death of the seeds.
4. Freshness of seed . Both purchased and independently prepared seeds have a shelf life, after which germination is significantly reduced or disappears completely. It is recommended to store seed for no more than 3 years. When collecting seeds for personal use, be sure to mark what year they were received and monitor the shelf life.

Suitable green manure plants

Green manures loosen the soil and saturate it with useful substances. Suitable options for tomatoes:

• leaf mustard (repels many pests, prevents the growth of weeds);
• phacelia (neutralizes high acidity of the soil, attracts beneficial insects);
• oilseed radish (deeply loosens the soil);
• lupine (saturates the substrate with nitrogen, “pulls” nutrients closer to the soil surface);
• vetch (saturates with nitrogen, the green mass is used as a natural fertilizer).

Green manure for tomatoes can be planted in spring (to loosen the soil), autumn (using greens as a natural fertilizer) and during the summer (to protect against weeds, pests and attract beneficial insects)

Dependence of planting depth on soil type

The depth of planting vegetables also depends on the quality of the soil. Nutrients and oxygen enter the light, chernozem soil faster. Therefore, the planting depth can be a little greater, up to 2 centimeters.

It is recommended to carry out the same seed placement in sandy soil.

In heavy, clayey soil, it is allowed to sow the crop to a depth of 0.7 to 1 centimeter. After watering, the soil may erode, so it is necessary to add soil to the containers with plantings.

If the seedlings have outgrown

Sometimes, for a number of reasons, a situation arises when our tomato seedlings have outgrown, what should we do in this case?

• If the cold snap is short-lived, then, for example, in the Moscow region you can plant seedlings even on May 5, under lutrasil and film.
• In general, seedlings can last a maximum of 10 days in old containers and may even bloom, which is undesirable. If the seedlings bloom, you will have to cut off the tops.
• In such cases, some vegetable growers place the seedlings in a cool place (glazed balcony, loggia, greenhouse, veranda), where during the day the temperature is +15 at night +4+6, if there is little light, the seedlings do not stretch or grow.
• Some vegetable growers, during prolonged cold spells, resort to transplanting seedlings into large containers (you can take high-cut plastic bottles with a volume of 1.5-2 liters). At the same time, the growth process does not slow down much, it slows down by only 3 days.

Negative effects of improper seeding

The further growth and development of plants depends on the depth of sowing of tomatoes. Plantings that are too deep will not be able to break through to the surface and rot in the soil. And the sprouted plants will be weak or frail, which will ultimately affect the quality and quantity of the vegetable harvest.

If the seeds are buried too close to the soil surface, they germinate faster, but the rhizomes do not have time to develop. In this case, the plants require replanting or deepening the roots.

Expert opinion

Stanislav Pavlovich

Gardener with 17 years of experience and our expert

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Important! When the seeds are deeply buried, tomatoes require more time to grow and develop, and the time taken to transfer to a permanent place of growth increases.