How and when to cover cucumbers to prolong fruiting

Cucumber: secrets of growing

Each gardener has his own secrets for growing. Some use the seedling method, others sow seeds directly into the ground; they can be germinated or dry. The first option is suitable for those who want to get the harvest 2 weeks earlier.

In open ground conditions, cucumbers can be grown in several ways:

• Warm beds constructed of wooden boards or a bulk earthen rampart, inside of which there is rotting organic matter. The increase in temperature occurs due to the release of carbon dioxide.
• Plants tied to trellises.
• Shelters made of film or material with or without a frame.
• In a barrel.
• In a compost heap.
• Spread out on the beds; such cultivation requires a sufficient amount of free land.

The features of this vegetable crop are: the need for water and proper irrigation of the beds, sufficient lighting, warmth, garters to supports and organic fertilizers.

The nuances of growing crops under film with arcs

According to the recommendations of experienced summer residents and gardeners, the best varieties are bee-pollinated. But it happens that flowering occurs during a period of cloudy and cold weather, then the film cannot be opened.

In this case, it is necessary to intervene in the natural process precisely at the moment when the flowers begin to bloom. In any case, the film structure is opened slightly and a support is placed under it. If you skip this moment, the cucumbers will bloom as barren flowers.

Under each flower there is a small ovary or none. Do this by taking a cotton swab or a brush with soft bristles. First, lower the brush onto the male flower in the center, under which the ovary is not visible, and then move the brush to the female flower. The procedure is very troublesome, and there is no chance of pollination of all the flowers. Artificial pollination is carried out if several specimens of cucumbers grow in the beds. It is impossible to pollinate large plantings in this way.

Choosing a cucumber variety for open ground

Before planting cucumbers, you need to decide on the variety, which should be chosen according to these characteristics:

• The region in which the crop will be grown. Plants intended for growing in the south will not be accepted in cold climate zones and will die.
• The time for obtaining the first cucumbers is early for a short, cool summer, and mid-season and late for a hot and long summer.
• An important factor will be self-pollination of bushes or the need for pollen-carrying insects.
• Purpose of using greens: for fresh consumption or canning, as well as taste characteristics and size of the fruit.
• Resistant to pest attacks, diseases and weather conditions.

Growing hybrids on site also has a big advantage - long fruiting. However, it is impossible to obtain planting material from such plants, since in the next season the seeds do not reproduce the characteristics of the mother bush.

First aid measures for freezing cucumber seedlings

What to do if cucumber seedlings are frozen? Based on the degree to which the cucumbers have frozen, measures can and should be taken to resuscitate the seedlings.

How to save seedlings:

• At the first degree of freezing, cucumber seedlings can be saved. It is treated with a solution of the drug "Epin-Extra", which, being a biological growth stimulant, restores sprouts, stimulating the growth and immune forces of plants. After carefully reading the instructions for the drug, you need to spray the cucumbers with it.
• If the cucumber seedlings are frozen to the second stage, then in addition to spraying with a biostimulant, other measures must be taken in the following sequence:
• First, you definitely need to cover the sprouts with cardboard boxes and lay film on top. Such shelter is necessary in order to provide protection from sunlight. When the sun comes out, it quickly heats the cucumber sprouts and dries out their surface, which increases frost stress and causes the plant to die.
• After the seedlings have stood under the boxes all day, in the evening you can remove the boxes and treat them with a biostimulant, for example HB-101. The next day, the surviving cucumbers will look better, and the dead plants can be removed.
• If cucumber seedlings are frozen before the third stage, then the chances of resuscitating them are almost zero.

Varieties of cucumbers for open ground

When choosing a variety, it is necessary to remember that early ones have a short fruiting period and are more susceptible to diseases than late ones. The table will help you decide on planting a particular hybrid based on the weight of the cucumber and the yield:

How to control pests

When harvesting, protect the fruits from parasites. There are several types of pests that prevent the plant from developing properly. These are greenhouse whiteflies, melon aphids, weeds and powdery mildew - these are the main pests that attack cucumbers. There are different methods to combat each of them. The greenhouse whitefly feeds on the sap of plant leaves. Damaged leaves turn black and dry out. To get rid of this pest, it is necessary to promptly and thoroughly remove all weeds. Timely weeding helps prevent fruit spoilage, which is especially important if you were able to grow a large crop.

Growing cucumbers in seedlings

This method is suitable for regions with cool and long springs. There are several other advantages of pre-growing seedlings:

• allows you to get an early harvest in late spring - in May;
• young cucumbers fall into the ground after return frosts and there is no need to worry about low soil temperatures;
• It’s easier to inspect seedlings and apply fertilizers at home.

However, like any other, the seedling method has its disadvantages:

• The growing process is quite long and labor-intensive. It is necessary to pre-treat the planting material and prepare a nutritious soil mixture.
• Bushes obtained in this way quickly stop bearing fruit and dry out completely by mid-summer.

Using black material

Despite its fastidiousness, this plant is grown by most farmers. First of all, you should pay attention to the absence of cold weather, excessive stay in the shade or in the scorching sun. Humidity and soil composition are also an important factor that determines the quality of the future harvest.

By using covering material for cucumbers, you solve several problems at once. To begin with, in a covered bed you can achieve earlier fruiting thanks to early sowing.

In addition, this adds protection from winds and low temperatures, a sufficient level of moisture, and minimizing the damage of sunlight.

Today you can purchase several types of materials for such purposes, including reinforced film, spunbond, and ordinary polyethylene. In special cases, you can combine canvas with film, which will reliably cover your plants from winds and frost.

Site selection and soil preparation

To grow cucumbers, you should choose a sunny area with access to light, protected from drafts and cold winds. When planting, it is imperative to observe crop rotation; you can plant a plant in one place once every 4 years. It is best to place this vegetable crop after peppers, tomatoes, cabbage, onions or garlic.

The optimal soil for growing is neutral or slightly acidic pH 5-7. An alkaline environment is not suitable for planting, as it affects the yield.

Before growing, you need to prepare the bed in advance in the autumn:

• dig up the soil;
• add compost, humus or manure and additional potassium and superphosphate;
• Instead of organic fertilizer, also use mineral fertilizer: ammonium nitrate and urea.

You can build a warm bed on the site; to do this, you need to make a platform about 1 m wide from rotted parts of plants and soil, and lay hay on the sides. When the height is 20 cm, you can proceed to forming the side; mullein is perfect for this. The edge of the structure must be raised by 60 cm, and fertile soil or humus must be added to the middle. Next, cover the structure with film and wait 3-4 days. If straw was used, it must first be poured with boiling water and then covered.

Reviews from gardeners

And we shaded with such a special mesh, I don’t know what it’s called, usually bags for fruits and vegetables are made from it, and even washcloths... It’s synthetic, we pulled it several times between the fence and the barn, it seemed to help, but, of course, without loss it didn't work out. But the roll is large and cheap, enough for a large area!

romashka

https://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?start=120&t=4762

Pre-fill the stakes throughout the garden, between which you will then stretch the shading edges. They can be made from any waste rag. On low-growing plants, you can overturn any loose box (even from under the same potatoes). If it is possible to chop large, lush branches, then you can simply surround the plants with them in the form of a lattice or dig in, sort of like trees. In general, prepare to create more shade and mulch with moisture-absorbing materials. The same rag or paper, crumpled into lumps, can be thrown under the plants.

Antonia

https://www.lynix.biz/forum/kak-spasti-urozhai-ot-zhary

Of course, sometimes you have to literally save your garden from heat and withering; in the open ground, I usually put up umbrellas or improvised tents that shelter the garden from the strong sun; you can also nail sticks along the edges of the garden and stretch a tarpaulin.

Master key 111 [72.3K]

https://www.bolshoyvopros.ru/questions/1510300-kakie-varianty-zaschity-rassady-v-ogorode-ot-zhary.htm

In a greenhouse, you can stretch fabric over the walls as protection from the sun, if you have something to tie it to. You can put the fabric on top of the roof of the greenhouse and secure it with a fishing net - between these two layers the fabric will not go anywhere. You can directly lay a light covering material, such as Lutrasil, on top of the plants. In open ground it is more difficult because the seedlings are located in different beds. Large and low ones like zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, and cucumbers can be covered with plastic mesh boxes. It’s more difficult with a tall one: either wrap it with Lutrasil, or sew the sides of the newspaper (to make a bag without a bottom) and put this bag on four pegs around the plant.

Planting seeds and seedlings in the ground

In order for a vegetable crop to please you with a bountiful harvest, planting in the ground must be carried out according to the rules. The cucumber is native to the tropics and subtropics of India, which means that humidity and temperature become important parameters. The earth should be sufficiently warmed up, the minimum readings are +10...+12 °C, and the air up to + 14 °C. Optimal: +24…+28 °C, and the maximum permissible value for growth and development is + 30 °C, so delaying planting seeds in the ground is also not recommended.

Seed material is usually used dry, without soaking or germination. However, it is important to carry out disinfection: with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, chlorhexidine, brilliant green, or purchase the drug Fitosporin. The seeds have a long shelf life: 5-6 years, and it is better to use the ones that have already been sitting for 3-4 seasons. It is necessary to embed into the ground to a depth of 2 cm. For comfortable growth, the distance between seedlings should be at least 50 cm. If the bushes are planted more often, the weak ones must be removed.

If you choose to plant by seedlings, then it is better to calculate the time of sowing the seeds, because the sprouts may outgrow and stretch out or, conversely, not become strong enough by the time they are transferred to the garden bed. Optimal age of seedlings: 20-25 days. In the South, this needs to be done in May, and in the middle zone in early June, after the earth has warmed up and there are no frosts.

Before transshipment to a permanent place, the cucumbers need to be prepared; to do this, stop moistening the soil the day before the procedure. If it is necessary to transport the container, place it tightly in a box. If it's cool outside, you can put a bottle of warm water between the glasses for warmth.

In the beds, you need to loosen the soil and dig holes with a depth equal to the volume of the container in which the seedlings are located. Before moving the bushes, the holes must be watered; however, excess liquid will negatively affect rooting. When transplanting, cucumbers must be carefully removed from the glasses; this must be done with a lump of earth so as not to damage the delicate root system. Do not pull on the top; you can break the seedling. It is not worth digging deep into the substrate, and it is better to plant vigorous specimens at a slight slope. The maximum permissible depth is 1-2 cm.

The adaptation time in the soil is 5-6 days, the leaves should straighten and the stems straighten. If the bushes look weak, an initial fertilizing is applied. If there are temperature changes for several days, young plants can be covered with material or film.

Growing cucumber seedlings

Seed preparation

Cucumber seeds remain viable for 5-6 years. Branded ones are usually covered with a colored shell (encrusted), they are already disinfected and treated with growth stimulants. In order not to wash away the beneficial substances, they are sown dry. Such seeds do not require pre-sowing treatment.

Seeds collected independently, purchased second-hand, or donated require processing. There are many methods for preparing for sowing; you shouldn’t try to try everything, it’s better to choose those that are really needed and not disrupt the sequence of the following actions.

1. Selecting full-bodied seeds

, we reject “dummies”. To do this, cucumber seeds are placed in a solution of ordinary table salt (30 g/1 l of water). Those that have sunk to the bottom are washed and left.

2. Warming up.

Seeds of varietal cucumbers, especially if they are fresh, are best heated to promote the rapid appearance of female flowers. You can keep them in the sun for 3-4 days. And if there is no time left for this, then the seeds can be heated in hot (53 degrees) water in a thermos for 15-20 minutes before sowing.

3. We disinfect.

To do this, the seeds are soaked in a solution of phytosporin-M or bactofit, these are biological fungicides. Or you can hold it in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. Then washed in running water.

4. We accelerate germination.

Germination energy is increased with the help of growth stimulants (zircon, Epin-extra, HB-101) or fertilizer solutions containing microelements, soaking the seeds in them according to the instructions.

5. We germinate.

It is advisable to germinate the seeds until a root 1-5 mm long appears. First, the seeds are kept in warm water for 2-3 hours, then in a warm place for a couple of days, wrapped in a wet paper napkin and placed in a plastic container with a lid.

By the way: For sowing varietal cucumbers, it is better to use 2-3-year-old seeds; they produce more female flowers.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The time for planting cucumber seeds for seedlings for the middle zone is late April - early May. Such seedlings will be ready for transplanting into the ground by the beginning of June. Sowing dates for other regions, as well as favorable days according to the lunar calendar, can be found here - When to sow cucumber seeds for seedlings.

Sowing is done in stored containers (peat humus pots, cassettes, milk cartons, homemade cylinders measuring 8x8x8 cm). If there is a catastrophic lack of space, you can first use a small container, and when the first real leaf appears, transplant it into a larger one.

The containers are filled with loose nutritious soil: ready-made from the store (“For cucumbers”, “Magic bed”, etc.) or you prepare it yourself by mixing humus, low-lying black peat and semi-decomposed brown sawdust in a ratio of 2:1:1.

The soil is spilled with warm water, preferably with a solution of microfertilizers. When the moisture is absorbed, begin sowing. Place 1 seed in each container, deepening it 1.5 cm. At the same time, lay the seeds flat, even sprouted ones. Sprinkle with a layer of earth of at least 0.5 cm. Cover with transparent film and place in a warm, bright place. Water only when the top layer of soil dries out.

Seedling care

Until shoots appear, the cucumber crops are kept at room temperature, then, to prevent the plants from stretching, they are sent to the windowsill, where the temperature is 17-20 degrees during the day, 14-15 at night, but not lower, drafts are excluded. After 2-3 days, the temperature is raised to room temperature.

Watering needs to be done carefully, only with warm water. Weak seedlings are fed with complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen; you can “encourage” it with epin-extra or immunocytitis.

Weeks before planting in the garden, the plants begin to harden off, for which they reduce watering and take the seedlings out onto the balcony, loggia or street, preventing the plants from being exposed to the scorching rays of the sun.

Features of caring for cucumbers in open ground

Caring for cucumbers in open ground is quite simple and consists of forming a bush, timely application of fertilizers and watering. If you approach this responsibly, you can get healthy bushes and good fruiting.

Watering

Cucumbers are a crop that loves abundant and regular watering, however, with heavy rain, the roots of the plant may be susceptible to root rot. To avoid diseases, it is necessary to stop moistening the soil at temperatures below +15 °C; it is better to simply loosen the soil between the bushes. Due to the risk of disease, you should try not to get liquid on the greenery of the plant.

The best water is rainwater, it contains the most oxygen and beneficial nutrients, it must be warm, the temperature is + 22...+25 °C. Watering when cold is not recommended, because of this the bushes grow more slowly, the ovaries form poorly and fall off. The optimal time to moisten the soil is late evening.

However, when there is a lack of fluid, not only the bushes and root system suffer; this affects the appearance and taste of the fruit. They grow small and become bitter.

Those gardeners who cannot regularly visit their summer cottages, but want to provide vegetables with everything they need to grow, should build an irrigation device from plastic bottles. The advantages of the method are its availability, ease of manufacture and repair. In a container filled with water, use an awl or needle to make 3-4 holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm at a distance of 2 cm from the bottom. Bury the container in the ground, leaving a lid on the surface through which you can add liquid as it is empty.

Top dressing

Fertilizing is an important part of caring for cucumbers. During the entire growing season, you need to fertilize 3-4 times, so as not to make a mistake, this should be done according to the following scheme:

• After the seedlings have adapted, to improve the soil, add diluted manure at a ratio of 2:1 and leave for 5 days. For healthy bushes per bucket 5 liters, and for weak bushes per liter.
• The second time, when the buds and ovaries form, they are fed with the same composition, to which potassium and phosphorus can be added.
• During the period of active fruit formation: 1 tbsp of ash per 1 m2. Also, every 10 days, add a solution of mullein with the addition of nitroammophoska: 1 tbsp. l. For 10 l.

Fertilizers for the soil alternate with foliar fertilizers. Spraying with urea has worked well, from which you need to make a solution: 1 tsp. for 10 liters of water. This will greatly help cucumbers during the period of growing green crowns. However, it is necessary to have time with such processing before the flowers appear. Diluted soda will help prevent yellowing of leaf blades: 0.5 tbsp. l. for 5 l.

Formation

Adjusting the bushes is an important part of caring for cucumbers; it prevents the plants from many diseases, and also has a positive effect on the ripeness of the cucumbers. The most convenient way of growing is by tying the vines to wooden trellises with sparse cells. The structures look very decorative in the garden and provide access to all plants and easy care. For each bush, it is necessary to remove the lower leaf plates and shoots (pruning), the upper part can be left.

If pegs or cords are used as support, the cucumber is grown into one stem, and all side vines are removed.

An important point is - stepsoning (removing stepsons), the fruiting and life expectancy of each bush depends on them. To prevent the plant from being too tall and the cucumbers to ripen faster on sideways shoots, you need to remove the growing points (pinching). When properly adjusted, the bush should look like a long stem with short vines extending from it. The developing small fruits in the area of ​​3-4 leaves are also cut off, because they inhibit the formation of a large number of ovaries.

Harvesting

It is necessary to collect cucumbers once every 2 days, when they reach the optimal size for this variety, and not to store them on the bushes. The most suitable hours are in the morning, so the greens do not wither and remain elastic for a long time. Do not tear the fruits from the vine with your hands, but cut them with scissors or a sharp knife. The shoots should not be turned over frequently; the leaf blades should face up.

What to do if the cucumbers under the film are burnt?

It happens that cucumbers burn under the film. This happens due to excessive heat and humidity. If you water the cucumbers during the day, the temperature inside the shelter increases greatly due to heating by the sun through the film. In this case, if the greenhouse is not shaded, the cucumbers may suffer.

What to do:

1. Remove the film for ventilation.
2. Inspect every vine. If only the leaves are burnt, then they should be cut off, leaving only the shoots. At the same time, it is important that the growing points are preserved in the axils of the leaves. Then the plant can be saved. The shoots must be doused with cool water and left in this position for the whole evening or morning.
3. If the entire trunk is burned, the plant cannot be saved; it will be uprooted.

When such a situation arose in June or July, then in place of the dead plant you can plant early ripening varieties of cucumbers, which will have time to grow and produce a harvest in August or September.

When the foliage turns yellow, it often seems that the sun's rays are to blame. But this can occur as a result of a lack of nitrogen, so they fertilize with Azotovite, which will save the cucumbers to some extent.

Diseases and pests

Every season, when growing cucumbers, gardeners encounter pests and the first signs of diseases. Not only the future harvest, but also the health of the plant sometimes depends on timely treatment. The table below will help you identify the cause and find an effective solution.

Cucumbers on the balcony leaf disease

The leaves of cucumber seedlings react immediately to the lack of necessary components.

Experts note the following signs of diseases that require intervention:

• The leaves become small, turn pale, and the stem becomes thinner. New fruits grow weak and have an uneven curved shape. The tips of cucumbers are narrow. This indicates a lack of nitrogen.
• The seedlings begin to turn yellow, the leaves curl into a tube. Flowers and ovaries do not have time to grow to their normal state, dry out and fall off. The cucumbers come out crooked and pear-shaped. The vegetable has no taste; it contains a lot of water and bitterness. All these signs are an indicator of potassium deficiency.
• When the veins on the leaves appear brightly, the rest turns pale, and the lower leaves become covered with yellow spots - there is not enough magnesium.
• With a lack of phosphorus, the foliage curls vertically into a tube and the cucumber stops growing. Flowers and ovaries die and fall off.
• Calcium deficiency creates pale streaks on the leaves. The lines become wider over time, this leads to drying out, resulting in its death. At the same time, small fruits that have just begun to grow rot and infect the stem. From there, the rot is transferred to the root.
• If the seedlings become paler in color, the stems become thinner, and there are no fruits, this is a sign of a copper deficiency. In this case, the cucumber does not have time to bloom, the inflorescences die off.

To prevent the appearance and spread of these diseases, it is necessary to fertilize cucumbers on the balcony according to the rules.

Mr. Summer Resident advises: recommendations for growing cucumbers

To ensure that the harvest is plentiful and caring for the plant does not cause inconvenience, there are several more tricks:

• The most convenient way of growing is vertical. Weed control is reduced to a minimum by just mulching the soil.
• During the fruiting period, the bushes may not support the weight of the cucumbers and break; to avoid this, additional support must be installed.
• Wooden pegs may begin to rot if exposed to moisture. To prevent this from happening, before placing them in the ground, the ends are treated with a solution of salt with gasoline per 1 liter 200 g, and the upper part with 5% copper sulfate.
• If the selected area has a lot of sunlight, tall crops such as sunflowers or corn can be planted. When they grow up, you can attach the stems of cucumbers planted on the sides to them.
• For tying shoots to the rods, strong, two-core wires that do not sag under the weight of the greens are perfect.
• Stretch plastic film will protect the bushes from prolonged rains. And soft material will protect you from the cold, which can be used to cover trellises with plants attached to them.
• For small gardens, structures made from bicycle wheels and metal pipes are suitable. In this case, the lashes are tied to the rim or knitting needles one at a time in a circle.
• Instead of ordinary water, irrigate with acidified water. Add apple cider vinegar to settled or rain water; 1.5 tbsp is enough for 200 liters.

Growing cucumbers in a summer cottage is a troublesome but exciting task. With the right choice of variety and consistent adherence to the rules of caring for this crop, you can get a rich harvest of tasty fruits without bitterness.

How to properly protect cucumbers from the sun

The most convenient way to protect cucumbers from the heat is to create natural shading or plant the crop in an area shaded by a house, trees, or outbuildings. It is important that the bed is located a little further away. This allows you to achieve diffused light naturally.

To protect cucumbers from heat and aggressive ultraviolet rays, you can plant corn or beans between the rows.

Corn shades cucumbers well

For several years in a row I have been planting dill between the rows of cucumbers. It is better to choose bush varieties of dill (Alligator, Kubrai). They grow well and provide the desired shade.

Experienced gardeners advise covering the beds from the sun with a protective net (non-woven fabric with slots) that reflects ultraviolet radiation and can create diffused light on the beds. In specialized stores you can purchase mesh in different colors. It is considered optimal to use material in blue-green shades. You can use a white fabric with a coating that reflects ultraviolet rays for shading.

Cucumbers grow well under shade netting

Cucumbers can also be shaded in greenhouses. In this case, on hot days, the net is placed over the roof of a stationary greenhouse, which helps protect the crop from the scorching sun. You can experiment with the choice of grid or shade with improvised objects. Some experienced gardeners dilute chalk or clay and spray the greenhouse from above. It dries out and shades, albeit a little. Then this layer is easily washed off. The main thing is not to use lime or any paints.

How to shade cucumbers with a net: video

What not to do

To get a good harvest, cucumbers should not be planted in deep shade and lowlands. In this case, the growth of the bushes will be greatly slowed down, and the fruit set will decrease. Experts do not recommend using dark-colored polycarbonate or black non-woven fabric for shading. Such materials do not transmit sunlight well or even almost do not transmit it.

How to understand that a plant is drying up due to heat and sunshine

If you come to your dacha only on weekends, then it’s quite easy to miss the problem. For example, having planted seedlings on Sunday, you may simply not notice that after a day or two they have wilted. And by your next visit, the changes under the scorching sun may become irreversible, and the plants will die or weaken to such an extent that it will become pointless to expect a harvest from them.

It is advisable to plant seedlings at the very beginning of the weekend (Friday evening), then you will have two more days to monitor them and provide timely assistance

If you are on the site constantly, you will be able to quickly react to the first changes and take action. How to understand that a plant needs protection from direct sunlight:

• plants do not stand upright, but bend or “bow their heads”;
• the leaves, which were strong and elastic just yesterday, become soft like rags;
• the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out;
• old flowers fall off, but new ones do not form.

If at this stage everything is still fixable, then some of the plantings may simply die.

Plants in protected soil (indoors) also need additional protection in hot weather. Move pots of flowers to northern window sills or shade them from direct sunlight with screens, paper, or thick light-colored fabric. Do not forget to regularly spray the leaves and the air around them (if the plant has no contraindications to this procedure).

How to save plants if the sun has already scorched them

If you arrive at your dacha and see that the plants are burnt in the sun, do not delay in taking action - the problem will not be solved by itself. First of all, water the plantings thoroughly, organize shelter for them, and then look at the condition of each crop. For tomatoes, you can tear off the yellowed lower leaves and bury them in the ground, but with other crops you should not do this.

Carefully remove those leaves that clearly will not recover, spray the plant with a weak solution of zinc salts, and a day later treat it with Epin or Zircon according to the instructions. Spraying with zinc can be repeated several times at intervals of 2-3 days.

As you can see, the sun and air are not always the “best friends” for plants. In the spring, while your plantings are still weak and not yet strengthened, you should approach the choice of “friends” very responsibly and interact strictly in doses.

Forming a cucumber bush and pinching it

In order not to harm the plants, pinching is carried out in this way:

1. The formation of lashes involves removing excess flowers and shoots after the sixth leaf. For hybrid crops, at least three shoots are left, for the rest - one.
2. Further actions are aimed at maintaining a uniform form of the plant: for example, if four growth points are selected, then the appearance of additional ones is not allowed - this will reduce the yield.