Why the climbing rose does not bloom: reasons, how to help the plant, prevention

Climbing roses are the most popular flowers used for vertical gardening. These plants come in a variety of heights and colors, allowing you to create unique flower arrangements.

But it often happens that the gardener waits for the buds to open, but the climbing rose does not bloom. It's a shame, isn't it? Let's try to figure out what was done wrong.

Why don't climbing roses bloom?

There are many reasons for the lack of flowering in climbing roses.
Sometimes the problem can be complex. The bush does not bloom or will drop the collected buds if the planting site is poorly chosen or if there is no comprehensive care for the plant. When choosing a variety of fragrant beauties, pay attention to the regions and climate conditions in which it is recommended to grow one or another species. Important! In the first year after planting a young seedling in a permanent place, climbing roses do not bloom.

But from the second year after planting, roses should reward gardeners with the first buds. If this does not happen, it is necessary to find out the reason for the lack of flowering.

Unsuitable variety

The first reason that can be assumed is the wrong choice of variety or the purchase of low-quality seedlings. You need to make it a rule: do not buy seedlings from random people on the market. For our cool winters, frost-resistant roses in twos are more suitable.

Successful varieties of self-rooted climbing roses that bloom profusely in the middle zone:

1. Excelsa.
2. Love it.
3. Dortmund.

But this is not the only reason why a rose may not bloom.

Bad landing site

The choice of planting site for climbing roses must be taken responsibly. When planting roses, pay attention to the quality of the soil and the amount of sunlight. Partial shade is the best place for curly beauties.

If you plant roses without shade, they will fade. The lack of sunlight in the required amount stimulates climbing beauties not to form buds and “go” into the foliage, the stems of the plants become elongated.

It is not advisable to plant roses in lowlands and wetlands. Stagnation of moisture at the roots negatively affects flowering, fungal diseases occur, and the roots quickly rot.

The climbing rose bush needs a lot of nutrients; the plants should not be planted too close to trees and other ornamental shrubs.

Climbing beauties need supports, which are used as sheer walls, partitions, nets, arches and other devices. Make sure that the height of the support will reach 1.5-2 meters, this is exactly the size that an adult bush of climbing roses reaches.

Bad soil

Roses bloom well in breathable, fertile soils. If the bush is planted in clay, you may not wait for flowering: when planting, it was necessary to refine the soil to a depth of at least half a meter, adding sand and various fertilizers.

Lots of growth

Nutrients stimulate the growth of new shoots and stems of climbing roses. However, in parallel, root shoots develop near the bushes. Excess branches must be cut off immediately. If this is not done, the bush will become untidy and shapeless, and the varietal climbing rose will gradually turn into a wild one. The plant will devote all its energy to the formation of green mass, but it will not bloom.

Getting rid of root shoots is easy. You need to use a sharp blade to cut them off at the very surface of the earth. Small branches with thorns and leaves are also cut off. A neatly formed climbing rose bush is more resistant to pests and blooms profusely.

Incorrect pruning

When forming a bush, you need to follow some rules, otherwise it will not bloom:

1. Consider the variety of climbing roses. Some flowers bloom on last year's shoots. In the summer they are cut off, as they will no longer produce buds. The shoot is cut right to the base, and in its place 3 to 10 new ones will grow. Re-blooming varieties form differently. The main shoots are removed in the fourth year, when they are completely weakened and turn into ugly hanging lashes.
2. If the young shoots have grown too much and do not let light into the inside of the bush, they are removed.
3. Last year's shoots are trimmed very carefully, capturing only the upper part, where there are no formed buds.
4. It is better to cut stems that are too thick and have rough bark with a hacksaw.
5. The cut is usually made above the outer bud, holding the scissors at an angle. This way there will be no accumulation of excess moisture on it. Immediately after pruning, the branches are treated with disinfectants.
6. Anti-aging pruning is carried out in the spring, which stimulates the appearance of buds. They get rid, first of all, of branches that grow inside the bush, as well as diseased and thin stems.

It is worth remembering that if a climbing rose is pruned too much, the bush begins to develop incorrectly.

Improper feeding

The crop requires intensive care: control of diseases, pests, additional nutrition. An underfed, weakened shrub is more likely to shed its leaves than to bloom.

However, when feeding the plant, you need to be careful so that you don’t wonder why the rose doesn’t bloom, but only produces foliage. Many media outlets have recommendations for weekly feeding of roses. This cannot be done. Overfed plants grow rapidly and increase their green mass. And if they devote time to flowering, then it is extremely small: 1-2 buds can appear over the entire season.

Feeding roses for abundant flowering

Feeding roses should be justified and balanced. Signs of a lack of fertilizers:

• thin shoots;
• spots appear on the foliage;
• weak flowering.

Only then can you help the roses with food. With the beginning of flowering, the crop will need potassium magnesium, potassium monophosphate. Flower growers with extensive experience often refuse chemical fertilizers in favor of organic matter: why treat them if there is horse manure. Its effect on roses is simply magical - the flowers are bright, strong, bloom long, and the rose itself does not get sick.

Wrong wintering

An important condition for the flowering of climbing roses is reliable shelter for the winter. Severe frosts alternating with thaws have a detrimental effect on the condition of the bushes and therefore they do not bloom. Plants are covered with synthetic material such as spunboard or lutrasil. For this, you may additionally need pegs, arcs or frames.

It must be remembered that the plant must breathe. An easier way is to press the shoots to the ground and place a layer of spruce branches or spruce sawdust on them. The use of polyethylene is not recommended. It creates a greenhouse effect, which causes buds to begin to bloom.

Incorrect watering

Roses require a lot of moisture to bloom; without watering they bloom poorly, and in extreme cases they may not bloom at all. It is best to water roses infrequently, but abundantly, to a great depth. After watering, it is necessary to loosen, or better yet, mulch the soil. Any bulk materials used in gardening are used as mulch.

Excess nitrogen

Excess nitrogen is one of the possible reasons why climbing roses do not bloom. Organic fertilizers in the form of mullein infusion or chicken manure and mineral fertilizers (urea, ammonium nitrate) bring not only benefits. If you overdo it with the dosage or frequency of application, it is easy to get a fattening climbing rose bush that refuses to bloom.

Advice! Feed roses with infusion of ash. The ash contains potassium and other trace elements necessary for a flowering plant.

Shoots fattening from excess nitrogen are easy to identify. They have a growing point, they are thick, well leafed, and grow quickly. Due to the fact that all the energy is spent on growth, buds do not form on the bushes. What to do if a climbing rose does not bloom due to excess nitrogen is not difficult to guess. It is necessary to restore the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the soil. To do this, feed the bush with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Plant age

You should not expect immediate flowering from a newly planted rose. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions.

Aging

After about three years, climbing rose bushes become old. The shoots become woody, and a dense layer of dark bark appears on them. Almost no nutrients flow from the roots to the stems, and climbing roses do not bloom. The only way out is anti-aging pruning. After a while, young, viable shoots will appear on the plants.

Pests

The lack of flowering is often caused by garden pests. Insects destroy the plant and root system, preventing the development of buds. Treatments against parasites are recommended to be carried out immediately after detection of pests, preventing their spread.

The threat to roses is:

1. Caterpillars and slugs. Insects gnaw leaves and buds, sometimes leading the bush to complete death. Pests are destroyed manually or using poisonous insecticidal drugs.
2. Green aphid. Appears during the growing season, completely clinging to the surface of the bush, feeding on juices. Insects are destroyed by spraying roses with soapy water or nettle infusion.
3. Spider mite. The presence of the pest is determined by the appearance of yellow specks on the leaves and thin webs. To destroy the mite, the bush is treated with acaricidal preparations, the affected leaves are removed and burned.

Defeat by diseases

Climbing rose bark cancer

The reason why a climbing rose refuses to bloom may be a plant disease. Rose bushes are most often susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew or bark cancer. If a disease is detected, the necessary measures are urgently taken to save the bush:

• against powdery mildew, dormant buds and branches are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, the same solution can be used for preventive purposes - there will be no harm to the plant;
• Feeding with potassium fertilizers (superphosphate and potassium sulfate), as well as correct and timely covering of the bush for the winter, pruning affected shoots and excess growth, and, as necessary, ventilating the covered roses for the winter, will help fight bark cancer.

Damage to pink shoots by powdery mildew

The problem is in the soil

Depleted soil is a common reason why a climbing rose does not want to bloom. The problem occurs if the soil in the garden is clay or sandy. These types of soil are not suitable for climbing roses; they contain insufficient nutrients, clay soil does not conduct air well, and sandy soil contains little moisture.

Important! Don't forget to loosen the soil. Loosening depth is 5–7 cm.

When planting, improve the soil structure and increase its fertility by adding to the planting hole:

• sand in heavy soil;
• a little clay in sandy soil;
• humus, vermicompost, compost into any type of soil.

In addition, add fertilizers containing phosphorus to the hole when planting, and water the soil with the biological preparation “Baikal EM-1”. The supply of nutrients is enough for the first time, but in order to prevent soil depletion, feed the climbing rose according to the scheme given in the table.

How to help the plant?

To help the rose bloom, determine the reason that influenced the decrease in flowering. Do not forget that prickly beauties are demanding of soil fertility and the presence of sunlight.

Anti-aging pruning stimulates the bushes to produce buds, even if the flower plantings are already old. In the spring, during the period of bud set, the bushes must be sprayed with insecticides and fungicides. Do not let the plants grow; young shoots that thicken the bush are removed in time.

The modern floriculture industry offers a wide selection of complex, balanced fertilizers for roses and growth and flowering stimulants.

Change place

Perhaps your climbing rose just needs to be transplanted to another place and it will thank you with abundant flowering.

The place where roses are planted plays an important role for the proper development of the plant. Important nuances:

• rose bushes should be illuminated by the sun, but on a hot afternoon they need partial shade;
• bushes growing in a draft bloom worse;
• You should not plant a flower next to fruit and ornamental trees, it will not have enough food to bloom.

There are many reasons why rose bushes do not bloom. Most of them are associated with improper planting of seedlings and lack of regular care. Roses will decorate the garden with abundant flowering, if no serious mistakes are made during planting, this video will help you avoid them:

Pre-winter pruning

Every year, so that roses can fully rest in winter and gain strength, autumn pruning is carried out. After it in the spring, the bush will be able to bloom much earlier. If the reason for the lack of color lies only in the lack of pruning, then by summer you will be able to admire the blooming buds.

The rose doesn't bloom

The most favorable time for pruning is when the night temperature approaches zero degrees and will remain at this level for some time. If the procedure is carried out earlier, in a warmer period, the bush can continue to grow, forming young shoots. Frosts will destroy them, and the flower will lose its strength.

Important! Pruning is carried out over a five-leaf clover, which is strong and developed; the bud should be external.

A pruned bush can withstand temperatures down to -10 °C without additional shelter. For a quiet winter, the plant is covered using dry leaves, sawdust, and spruce branches. Many gardeners cover their garden bushes with plastic bags and dig the bottom in with soil to create more comfortable wintering conditions for the crop.

An indoor flower also needs rest. Continuous flowering can quickly exhaust the plant.

When flowering ends, the trunk is cut off. The old stem is removed at the root; the height of the stumps should not exceed 3 cm. A strong young shoot is cut off above the fifth bud.

Important! There must be leaves on the shoot of an indoor rose.

After this, the flower pots are taken out to a cool room.

Watering and fertilizing

Garden flowers, and especially indoor flowers, need fertilizing and watering. If you stop watering a garden flower, it will be able to get the necessary moisture from the soil and survive the forced drought, while a rose in a pot will completely dry out in a few days.

Immediately before autumn pruning, watering of garden bushes is stopped. Excess moisture in the soil will negatively affect the root system.

Watering is resumed after the ground dries out from the melt water. At the same time, nitrogen is added to make the plant bush more intensively.

Feeding roses

Supports for climbing roses

Climbing ramblers cannot be forced to bloom in the shade or if their stems lie on the ground rather than tied to supports. On them, the branches of the ramblers will be able to grow to the length when the gardener will be able to direct the stems of the bush parallel to the ground. On the horizontally located flexible branches of the rose, side shoots actively grow, on which flower buds form.

Trimming

Depending on the varietal characteristics, roses are pruned either once a year on the eve of wintering, or up to 3 times a year:

• Ramblers must be pruned no later than September. Healthy shoots older than 2 years are shortened to a length that makes it possible to roll them into a ring; those tending inside the bush are cut out completely. On young annual central stems, 1-2 well-developed buds are left;
• on climbers, when pruning, it is necessary to preserve the skeleton from shoots no older than 4 years. Side shoots are shortened. In the summer, 1-2 prunings are carried out to remove faded inflorescences and shorten side shoots.

Important! Drying, weak, damaged, dead branches of any type of rose are removed during the entire flowering season.

Scheme for trimming climbers

Preparing for winter

In warm regions, climbing roses provide insulation only in the root zone. In central Russia, rambler roses can also get by with only light insulation, while climbers need protection consisting of arches with covering materials stretched over them. In the conditions of the Urals and Siberia, all types of roses are covered in such a way that a 10-15 cm strip of air remains above the plants, and dense thick protective materials are placed on the covering structure.

Note! Covering too early can lead to the damping off of flower buds that have been laid in the fall. Roses begin to protect against the cold at a time when frosts set below −5 ° C.

Warming ramblers for the winter

Watering and fertilizing

Climbing flowering roses with a large mass of branches require weekly abundant watering in the heat. In early spring, watering begins after the soil has completely dried. They are stopped in the fall. In winter, plants should leave with a slightly moist root zone.

Along with the first spring watering, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the root zone. Their number depends on the size and age of the bush. On average, 15 g of urea is diluted in 10 liters of water. After 2 weeks, when watering, use nitroammophoska, which contains equal shares of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In summer, plants will benefit from phosphorus and potassium for the formation of buds. For the winter, up to 3 kg of rotted manure is applied under each adult bush.

Health of roses

Any rose loves being sprayed with cool water. As a result of this procedure, new buds form faster and their color is richer. After spraying, the room is ventilated. When there is stagnation and lack of air, indoor roses get sick.

The rose will signal a lack of moisture by yellowing and drying leaves. On hot summer days, when the buds begin to bloom intensively, the frequency of watering and spraying increases.

Important! In hot weather, watering is carried out in the early morning and evening. If spraying is carried out during the day, the drops will act as a lens and can burn the leaf.

Some varieties of roses cannot bloom because they have a bad neighbor in the flowerbed. Roses are prevented from blooming by lilac, spirea, and mock orange. They oppress the flower, actively taking away nutrition. You should help the rose and transplant it to another place.

Proper wintering

Improper preparation of the plant for cold weather also affects the condition of the rose. What not to do:

Feed with nitrogen fertilizer at the end of the season. After such stimulation, new shoots and leaves grow rapidly; before they have time to ripen, they will freeze during frosts and begin to rot.

In autumn, do not pick off leaves. This technique in October gives the plant a signal about the onset of cold weather, and it begins to prepare itself.

Trim the bushes. As you know, this procedure stimulates the appearance of lateral branches, and the release of new buds from the leaf sinuses. Instead of the plant preparing for the dormant period, it will waste energy on the useless growth of young green stems, and, exhausted, it will not be able to overwinter well

Preventive actions

It is easier to prevent any problem than to have negative consequences. The garden will be filled with the fragrance of climbing roses if the following rules are observed:

• Carrying out spring anti-aging pruning.
• Preventive spraying of bushes with fungicides.
• Maintain intervals between bushes when planting.
• Competent agricultural technology.
• The rose variety must be adapted to the growing region.
• Do not plant roses in the shade of other plants and buildings.
• Stagnation of moisture at the roots of the plant is unacceptable; expanded clay drainage is installed at the bottom of the planting hole.
• Shrubs are covered with additional devices for the winter, even if the variety is winter-hardy.
• Provide the plant with rational watering and comprehensive fertilizing.

With systematic flower care, a correctly chosen planting site, and compliance with agricultural technology, the garden will be filled with the fragrance of fragrant beauties. Climbing roses are a noble decoration of a summer cottage.

Disease and pest control

Leaf-eating insects and their larvae, aphids, and spider mites are dangerous for roses. Plants may suffer from fungal diseases. Modern means of plant bioprotection make it possible to get rid of pests and various pathogenic microorganisms without harming the environment.

Important! It is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of plants in a timely manner, and do not leave pruned damaged branches near the bushes.

Gazebo of climbing roses

Aging

They bloom poorly and

old roses

. If you have been growing them for more than 3 years, it’s time to rejuvenate them. Why is this being done? The fact is that old rose wood does not conduct nutrients well; gradually the plant begins to bloom sparingly and eventually dies for unknown reasons. Therefore, every year in the spring, three-year-old shoots that have become very woody are cut out, in replacement of which the bush will produce new, young, green ones, and they will already pick up the baton of flowering.

The old shoot must be cut out at ground level. Photo by the author

Poor preparation for winter

Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaw. Therefore, do not forget about the air gap between the plant and the shelter. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potassium fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.

Reason 4. Wrong fertilizing strategy

Many problems with the flowering of roses arise from improper organization of fertilizing. To solve them once and for all, you need to remember what the main batteries are responsible for:

Thus, to stimulate the flowering of roses, a sufficient amount of phosphorus, as well as potassium, is necessary. Excess nitrogen fertilizers, on the contrary, causes roses to expel the green mass, “fatten” and prevent abundant flowering

Lack or excess of fertilizers

A large number of substances can harm the bushes, for example, nitrogen will stimulate the growth of foliage and shoots, but flowers will not appear. To increase soil fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus, and special bacteria are added. The way out of the situation with excess nitrogen is to add potassium salt and mix it with superphosphate.

Wood ash serves as a good fertilizer for roses. It contains all the necessary substances, including potassium.

In the second year, rose bushes are fertilized several times throughout the year:

• the first time - at the beginning of summer they add organic matter;
• the second feeding is done 3 weeks after the first - with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers;
• in July you can add complex fertilizers for roses.

Important!

In mid-summer, nitrogen supplements should not be used.

In the third year they feed:

• April – 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer per plant;
• fertilize the second time after the flowers wither - with mineral supplements;
• in September you will need superphosphate 30 g per square meter.

Preparation of organic fertilizer: two weeks before application, place manure in the container and fill it with water 1:3. Add potassium sulfate 30 g, superphosphate 20 g. The whole mass is mixed and left for 10-12 days. Before watering, the solution is diluted with water 1:10, 3-4 liters are poured under the bush. In the fall, when digging between rows, 1 kg of compost is added to a square of land.