Garlic, which is planted with whole heads: description of varieties, cultivation with photos

Some gardeners grow bush garlic on their plot. The term causes confusion: the family (multi-bud) onion is known. When planted as a set, it produces from 7 to 9 onions in a nest. Garlic, when planted with a clove or single clove, produces a single full-fledged bulb. But gardeners claim: a plant of this type exists.

Often, a beautiful bush grows from a head forgotten in the garden in the fall in the spring. Young leaves are used as an early seasoning. But some gardeners leave the plant until harvest. The result is several small garlic heads.

Gardeners consider growing bush garlic justified. They are willing to put up with a small size to save space. The taste and pungency of this unusual plant are no different from its counterpart.

Description of the variety

You can plant the heads of any plant variety. Some gardeners pass special garlic from hand to hand. When grown in a nest, larger heads are obtained. But the name of the plant is not reported. Most likely, this is an ordinary zoned variety that is planted in this way. When placed individually, the prongs will produce a typical head.

Planting a winter plant can be successful. After the snow melts, clumps of green arrows sprout from the ground. Gardeners dig them up from the edges and diversify the country menu.

The spring vegetable is also planted whole. This saves space in the garden beds. Garlic tops grow stronger and coarser. But the underground part is better stored.

“BUSH” GARLIC

Science and life // Illustrations

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Have you ever seen 5-7 heads of garlic grow from a head of garlic that was accidentally left in the ground the next year?

So I came up with this idea: why not plant winter garlic not with individual cloves, but with whole heads? The first year I planted only a few heads. As a result, 5-7 heads grew in one bunch at once in one bush. They were smaller than those planted in individual cloves, but they occupied almost 5-7 times less space, and caring for them was much easier.

The next year I chose the largest heads of garlic and planted them between the garden strawberry bushes. The harvest was quite decent, but the strawberry bushes suffered a little. Apparently, garlic roots take the same nutrients from the ground as strawberries. Then the next year, before planting whole heads of garlic, I began to pour humus mixed with fertile soil into the hole. And here is the result: the garlic grew together, and the strawberries were not harmed; there were almost no pests or diseases on them.

But spring garlic, planted using the same method, turned out worse.

I once read that garlic helps against moth, and I planted whole heads around three red currant bushes, but I did not notice the effect of phytoncides on moth. I also planted “bush” garlic under an adult apple tree along the projection of the crown: in a circle in one row in grooves approximately 10-12 cm deep. Humus was poured onto the bottom of the grooves, the heads were placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from one another, pressed lightly, and on top added a layer of fertile soil. Such planting was also good for the apple tree, since over the summer I loosened the garlic 3-4 times, regularly watered and fed it.

The next year, when planting garlic under an apple tree, I stepped back from the previous strip by 20-30 cm, that is, I planted them closer to the trunk.

I also noticed the favorable proximity of tomatoes and “bush” garlic. As a result of this planting, tomatoes were less affected by late blight.

Next season I’m going to plant “bush” garlic between cabbage - cauliflower, kohlrabi, early white cabbage.

For several seasons now I have been planting “bush” garlic along garden paths - between the tulips. I think it turns out beautifully.

In the Moscow region, winter garlic is usually planted in the second half of September; planting is completed by October 10-15. And although this plant is classified as shade-tolerant, it is better to plant it in the sun. It is not recommended to place garlic after potatoes and onions and in those places where it previously grew, even three years ago.

When placing garlic in a garden bed, treat the dug-up soil well with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon of the drug per 10 liters of water), the water temperature should be at least 30°C, its consumption should be 1-2 liters per 1 square meter. m area.

Before planting, it is recommended to soak the heads in a saline solution (3 tablespoons of table salt per 10 liters of water). They are kept in this solution for 10-12 minutes, after which they are washed in running water and divided into cloves: large and medium ones are used for planting, small ones are better not to plant, but to use for food.

At the beginning of summer, arrows appear on the shooting garlic; some of them need to be broken off, while others should be left and the grown bulbs should be used for planting in the fall. Next year, they will produce small one-toothed onions, which, when planted, will grow into regular heads of garlic.

Just before the frost, the bed with garlic is covered with peat, humus or sawdust with a layer of 3-4 cm, and when snow falls, they cover it too. The next year, in mid-April, the plants are fed with organic and mineral nitrogen fertilizers: urea, ammonium nitrate - at the rate of 2 tablespoons of the drug per 10 liters of water. The soil under the garlic is loosened 3-4 times per season, especially after watering and rain. Garlic is moisture-loving. Unlike other vegetables, it can be watered with cold water, but it will grow better if watered with water warmed by the sun. In summer, it is good to feed the plantings with organic fertilizers, for example, bird droppings diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, or mullein 1:10. I use half-rotted manure to feed garlic (2 buckets of fertilizer per 100-liter barrel of water) and, without waiting for fermentation, I feed the plants at the roots with this solution.

Harvest the garlic after half the leaves turn yellow. First, they dry it together with the leaves in the shade, then the leaves are cut off, leaving petioles 5-6 cm long. Holding the petioles, quickly lower the heads into melted paraffin and lay them out in one layer on paper. Store garlic in a cardboard box near the balcony door or on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

Growing

Winter garlic heads need to be planted 10–15 days before the onset of the first frost. For the middle zone this is the end of September or the first ten days of October. The teeth should have time to take root, but not produce green shoots. This will allow the plant to winter comfortably.

To get a good harvest, you should follow simple rules:

Landing technology

When planting whole heads, the need for nutrients is many times greater than with the traditional method. This must be taken into account and a sufficient amount of fertilizer must be applied.

Select the most beautiful dense heads. All cloves should be firm to the touch, without any signs of rotting or pest infestation.
Remove the top scales and free the tops of the cloves, cut off the bottom with dry roots. Cut the stem at a height of 4–6 cm. Soak the prepared heads of garlic for 15 minutes in a saline solution (1 tablespoon of salt per 2 liters of water).
Alternatively, you can soak the heads in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (barely pink) or in a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
Another good disinfectant is Fitolavin, which contains a complex of streptothricin antibiotics of natural origin. Perfectly suppresses root rot, vascular bacteriosis, Alternaria blight and many other fungal and bacterial diseases.
Read also: An unpretentious potato variety that stores well: “Sifra”
Make holes in the ground 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be 25–30 cm.
Add well-rotted compost and 1 teaspoon of garden diatomaceous earth to each hole. Diatomite protects garlic from disease and rotting, improves the nutritional properties of the soil, deoxidizes it, and increases productivity.
Place a head of garlic at the bottom of the fertilized hole, lightly press it into the ground and cover it with soil. On poor soils, you can sprinkle compost on top for extra nutrition.

Benefits of planting whole heads of garlic

Save time
Minimum area
Great harvest
Plant protection from late blight, aphids, moths and other pests

Now you know how to plant whole heads of garlic in the fall . We have previously told you when and how to plant winter garlic in 2022 and what subtleties should be taken into account in order to get an enviable harvest.

"So simple!" will tell you how to remove toxins and waste from the body using garlic. After all, the main thing in this matter is not to go to extremes and not harm the body.

Features of care

Caring for garlic, which is planted with whole heads, is no different from caring for a regular vegetable. Recommended:

comply with planting deadlines;
choose well-drained, moisture- and breathable soils;
loosen several times a season (at least 2–3 times);
add the mineral complex at least once (during planting);
break out the arrows (they weaken the underground part of the plant).

You should be careful when choosing a landing site. The best neighbors are strawberries and fruit trees. The beds should not be placed after onions, garlic, or bulbous flowers.

Garlic heads do not like excess organic matter: only mature compost or humus should be added in moderation . For digging, pour a bucket per square meter. The beds are fertilized 5 days before planting.

Features of planting garlic with a whole head

Any variety can be grown this way. From one head you can get 5-7 at once, but they will be smaller in size than with traditional cultivation. You can plant garlic around berry bushes, in beds with other plants, this way they will be protected from pests.

When planted with a head, the plant grows compact in the form of a bush. It is easier to care for and harvest once ripe. The peculiarity of this sowing method is that the spring plant yields less than the winter plant. That is, garlic planted in autumn is more prolific.

If the plot of land is small or the gardener prefers to grow small heads, then this planting option is perfect. In addition, a plant planted with a whole bulb overwinters better. For planting, you need to choose places where there is no spring melt water, otherwise the plant will quickly get wet and die.

To protect against rodents, install nets in the soil on the sides of the bulb. In cold regions, the plant is covered for the winter and removed in the spring. If you plant in the spring, you need to wait until the soil has completely thawed.

Garlic should not be planted next to onions and other bulbous plants, as they have the same diseases.

Advantages and disadvantages

Growing whole garlic has its supporters and opponents. The first ones note:

saving space;
unpretentiousness;
identity of taste with an ordinary plant;
the benefit of neighboring crops from regular loosening and fertilizers.

Opponents talk about small bulbs and difficulties with harvesting. During ripening, you have to dig up the bush from the edges and select small bulbs. When consuming the herb in moderation, you can always set aside some space for planting.

Caring for spring garlic so that it grows big

You can get large spring garlic if you follow the following recommendations:

Soil selection. Whatever you do, if the soil is heavy, you won’t be able to grow a large head. The garlic simply won’t get through it and will grow small and crooked. If you have infertile soil in your garden, add sand or peat to it when preparing the bed.
Weeding. Weeds take away nutrients from vegetables, so regularly clear the beds of weeds.
Watering. While the feathers are growing, you need to water the garlic regularly and generously from a watering can. But as soon as the bulbs begin to form, you need to irrigate less. Reducing watering will help the formation of large garlic.
Loosening. Large garlic is obtained only with free access of air to the rhizome, so after irrigation, regularly loosen the soil. In addition, this way you will avoid moisture stagnation.

Pests and diseases

The plant is easily affected by rot and mold due to excessive watering or in rainy summers. The introduction of immature organic matter contributes to diseases. Proper planting and care will allow you to avoid diseases and grow a good harvest.

Garlic planted whole is damaged by the onion fly. She lays eggs at the top of the plant. To prevent crop loss, it is recommended to adhere to the rules for the circulation of vegetable crops.

The pest should be monitored for years. In case of large-scale lesions, the use of insecticides is required.

Caring for winter garlic so that it is large, what to do

Winter garlic spends several months under the snow. It is very important to know what needs to be done with it so that it survives the winter and produces large heads in the summer.

Watering

There is no need to water immediately after autumn planting. The autumn rains will begin soon, and the garlic will be saturated with natural moisture.

But in the spring, watering should be regular: every 8-10 days. But only until the bulb begins to form. After this, watering is stopped.

Do not forget about loosening the soil after irrigation.

Feeding

Before planting winter crops, the soil is fertilized with a complex of a bucket of organic matter, 3 spoons of superphosphate, a spoon of potassium salt and 2.5 cups of ash.

In spring, the first fertilizing should be nitrogen. Urea is suitable, 30 grams of which should be dissolved in a bucket of water.

When the bulb is formed, a mixture of phosphate and potassium fertilizers is used. 40 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium sulfate are diluted into a bucket of water.

After this, you can feed it with dry ash.

Weeding

Weeds are true “green pests.” They interfere with the growth and development of the main vegetable crop, take away nutrients from it, and reduce living space.

Weeds need to be gotten rid of. Moreover, this should be done regularly. Garlic beds must be kept clean.

Harvest and storage

Harvest should be done after the tops turn yellow. For digging, it is recommended to choose dry, preferably sunny, weather. Using a fork will reduce damage to the heads.

Shake the dug garlic off the ground and leave it in the sun for 2 hours. This operation will disinfect the heads. Then spread the crop under a canopy or in a shed in a thin layer (about 5 cm) to dry the tops. Leave for 2 weeks.

Then cut off the roots at the bottom (leave 2–3 cm). Shorten the tops to 15–17 cm. Place in a basket or box with holes for air. Store the harvest in a dark place at room temperature.

Selection of variety and preparation of planting material

As for choosing a variety, everything is quite simple and unambiguous. The most popular and high-yielding ones were described above. We choose the ones we like the most and prepare them for sowing. Which garlic is best for these purposes?

First, we select the best bulbs or heads, as you like. They must be clean, without damage, signs of rotting, etc.
Secondly, there should be roots at the bottom of this same bulb. Moreover, they are viable and do not fall off. The bulb itself must be closed, i.e., the cloves at the top are tightly closed and the scales are dry.

Next, we proceed to the selection of cloves. We carefully separate the head of garlic into individual cloves and from them we similarly select the most suitable ones for planting. It is necessary to select the largest ones. If the head of garlic is large enough, but it contains no more than 4 cloves, it is better to discard such garlic. Most often, such an onion is associated with degeneration. But it will be just right for food.

Then we take each clove and remove the bottom from it. After this, all prepared cloves will need to be treated in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This is done a day before planting. The cloves are soaked for 24 hours. This procedure is carried out so that the plant increases its immunity and is resistant to fungi and various pests.

Many people plant cloves without such soaking. This need not be done for garlic, which is planted in the spring (I practically do this, and the harvest is good). As for winter crops, since its conditions are more severe, it is better to carry out this procedure. At least there won't be any harm.

Well, the planting material has been prepared, it’s time to start working on the beds. It is better to do this exactly during the same 24 hours when the cloves are in the solution. At least, after curing them, you will have a ready-made bed and you can immediately start sowing.

Reviews from gardeners

Gardeners share their impressions of growing plants with heads. A summer resident from the Moscow region says: “A neighbor shared her seed material. We have been growing vegetables this way for several years. We are very pleased: space is saved (we place the plants under the apple tree), the heads grow small, but sharp and fragrant. They do not freeze out in winter (when planted in autumn).

It is a little difficult to dig up the plant during the growing season to remove the outermost heads. But the advantages are obvious: when planting, there is no need to fuss and divide into cloves - time is saved.”

What varieties of garlic grow large?

The first thing you need to do when you set out to grow large garlic is to choose the appropriate type of crop.

Large garlic cloves will only be produced by large-fruited varieties of the crop. Often, summer residents in our stratum try to grow a good harvest from not the most suitable seed material.

If you have been planting a crop for a long time, but have not been able to achieve large size, change the variety.

In general, there are a lot of large varieties. You can choose one for every taste and color. And also for each region of Russia, taking into account natural and climatic features.

Initially, we advise you to pay attention to the following varieties:

Titanium. This is a winter variety. Produces heads weighing 100 – 150 g. There are very few cloves, 5 or 6. The scales have a purple tint, but the garlic cloves themselves are white. Productivity is almost 2 kg per square meter.
Gulliver . Spring. It has a small number of cloves for spring garlic - 5 pieces. The color is greyish. Average weight – 120 g. But you can also grow giants weighing 250-300 grams.
Orlovsky . Relatively large garlic (100 g). There can be 2 dozen cloves in an onion. Spicy taste. Valued for its excellent shelf life (7-8 months).
Alekseevsky giant. Winter garlic weighing up to 180 g. The husk is white. Has a pungent taste. Valued for its disease resistance.
Casablanca. An imported variety originally from Holland. Although the onion is large (200 g), the cloves are relatively small (8-12 pieces). Shows good keeping quality and high yield.
Broadleaf 220. Another winter species. Weight approximately 150-170 g. For winter varieties it has many cloves (up to 15). The taste is much milder than most other varieties.
Flavor. Spring garlic. Smaller than winter varieties (80-100 g), but with excellent taste and shelf life (almost a year). The flavor is distinguished by the fact that it practically does not dry out during storage.

IMPORTANT! Also try to regularly update the variety, as over time it will degenerate if you try to grow it in the same place.

Sowing seeds

Many varieties of garlic “degenerate” over time. This is indicated by a decrease in yield, a large number of bulbs with 3-4 cloves, the appearance of cloves of different sizes in the head, as well as double cloves. To maintain productivity, it is recommended to update the variety every 3-4 years by sowing garlic with seeds - small aerial bulbs that form on the shoots of garlic. They are also often called “bulbs”. Sowing seeds makes it possible to improve the health of planting material and increase its quantity.

To get larger aerial bulbs, leave shoots on strong and healthy plants. As soon as the arrow straightens and the shell of the box bursts, the garlic is removed and dried in a shaded place. Then the boxes are cut off and the largest “bulbs” measuring 4-5 mm in size are selected for seeds. They can be sown in spring or autumn, like all winter garlic. There is no need to disinfect the bulbs before sowing, since they initially lack pathogens. The seeds are sown to a depth of 3 cm, at a distance of about 2 cm. You can leave 20-30 cm between the rows to make it convenient to care for the seedlings. By mid-summer, one-toothed bulbs, or sets, grow from the seeds, which are harvested a little earlier than all the winter garlic.

There is also a direct method of propagating garlic, in which aerial bulbs sown in the spring remain overwintering in the ground. Next year, full-fledged heads grow from them. However, with this method, the crops must be carefully thinned out so that future bulbs grow large.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Which garlic is larger, winter or spring?

Of course, there are different varieties in both categories, but, in general, winter garlic produces a larger head.

How to choose a suitable place for garlic?

The crop should be planted on a slight elevation to avoid moisture accumulation at the rhizome. Like many other crops, garlic loves a light, nutritious and loose substrate.

How deep should cloves be planted?

Winter crops are planted deep (5 cm), and spring crops closer to the surface (2 cm). In spring it gets warmer every day, so there is no point in covering the garlic with an additional layer of soil.