Cucumbers Nastya f1: reviews, variety description and photographs, sowing, planting and cultivation, care and yield

Early maturing self-pollinating hybrid “Nastya f1”, intended for planting in open ground, film and glass greenhouses. From June to September it is in the fruiting stage. In Russia, the “Nastya f1” variety can be grown in any territory. It should be noted that in the southern regions, planting is done in the ground, and in the northern regions, the greenhouse version is used. The description of the variety shows that the vegetable has stable immunity. The growth of the central vine is unlimited, branching and growth of lateral shoots are weak, the main harvest is obtained on the central stem, and requires almost no formation. Reviews with photographs confirm high yield and excellent taste.

Characteristics of the variety

The strong bush consists of a solid central trunk and short side stems. The yield of the “Nastya f1” variety in open ground is 14 kg per 1 m², in a greenhouse up to 30 kg.

Characteristics of the cucumber bush:

parthenocarpic;
female type flowering;
tall;
stems shortened;
moderate climbing;
in one node there are 5-6 cucumbers;
ripening in 38-40 days.

Fruit characteristics:

length 7-9 cm;
type gherkins;
weight 80-100 g;
elongated, oval shape;
diameter 2-3 cm;
the skin is bright green, with light stripes at the top;
lack of bitter aftertaste;
pulp without voids, dense;
small tubercles and white pubescence.

The advantages of the variety include: high productivity, duration of fruiting, resistance to temperature changes and attractive appearance.

The “Nastya f1” variety is resistant to olive spot, cucumber mosaic virus and powdery mildew. This result was achieved thanks to the successful work of breeders. To protect against other diseases, special treatment agents are needed.

The disadvantages of this variety include the importance and regularity of fertilizing.

On a note!

Chemical treatment after flowering is not safe for human health. Therefore, all actions should be carried out only before flowering.

General information

A stable harvest of 12 to 14 kg can be harvested from 1 m2 of bed. The highest yield of the hybrid is approximately 1400 c/ha, which is almost 3.5 times higher than the maximum yield of the Asterix F1 cucumber variety, which is 422 c/ha. In greenhouse conditions, the fruitfulness of the plant will increase to approximately 30 kg/m², since Nastya prefers warmth and humidity. For large-scale production, the yield of marketable products will exceed half of the total harvest.

Note! The bushes of the plant are of medium climbing, with a weak ability to develop lateral shoots. Cucumbers are usually of medium height and do not grow more than 1 m.

Like most cucumber hybrids, the variety named after Nastya has a predominant female type of flowering. One leaf axil of a cucumber can reach an average of 5-6 ovaries. The root system is not very developed, but it needs oxygen-enriched soil. The leaves of the plant variety Nastya do not stand out:

medium size with wrinkled roughness;
the color is bright in shades of dark;
The edges of the leaf are slightly wavy.

Hybrid cucumbers differ from others in their stable and strong fruits. The variety belongs to the parthenocarpic type of cucumber, that is, seeds are poorly formed in the fruit or there are no embryos in them that can overripe. Therefore, parthenocarpic cucumbers almost never turn yellow and do not overgrow.

The fruits are cylindrical with rounded ends. The length is small - from 7 to 10 cm, each weighing about 100 grams. The ratio of length to diameter is 2.9 to 1. Its color is uniform, rich, dark green, with cucumbers at the tip of a slightly brighter shade. Surface of greens:

rough;
with small tubercles;
no spotting.

The inside of the cucumbers is dense, without voids, with a small number of seeds. There is no bitterness in the taste. The small fruits of the Nastya variety are well suited for canning for the winter, but will also be a juicy and crunchy addition to raw salads throughout the summer.

Preparation of seed material

The hybrid variety “Nastya f1” is grown by seedlings and sowing seeds in the ground. When grown in greenhouses, the harvest is obtained 15 days earlier. Plant on a flat, sunny side, protected from drafts.

Seeds for seedlings are sown at different times, depending on the region:

in the south - the first weeks of March;
in the temperate zone - mid-April;
in the northern regions - the last week of April.

Choose voluminous peat pots, they are an additional fertilizer, this will protect the roots from injury, since they do not need to be removed when replanting the plant. The seeds are deepened into heated soil at least +20 °C by 20 mm and covered with film. The first shoots appear after 7-10 days. Watering the seedlings is carried out with warm water at least once a week. Moisten with warm, settled water, do not allow the soil to become sour.

Diseases

Manufacturers note that Nastya F1 is resistant to powdery mildew and downy mildew.
However, this does not mean that the variety is not afraid of other diseases. Cladosporiosis or olive spot is a fungal disease. It is caused by sudden temperature changes and high air humidity. Appears at the end of the growing season. The disease is dangerous because it is carried by water, during irrigation, and wind. Fungal spores often remain inside the soil, so to avoid occurrence you must:

maintain cleanliness in the greenhouse and on the site;
disinfect the soil;
Do not plant cucumbers in the same place earlier than after 4 years.

Sclerotinia or white rot - its characteristic feature is the appearance of a white coating that covers the plant. Gradually it darkens, acquiring a black color. Like cladosporiosis, white rot is a fungal disease, and the source is fungal spores that remain in the soil and spread quickly, especially in conditions of high humidity

In order to avoid this disease it is important:

observe crop rotation;
prevent thickening of crops;
prevent the spread of weeds.

Unlike previous diseases, gray mold is a bacterial disease. It can quickly attack your cucumbers and ruin 60% of your harvest. Appears as large gray spots. Low air temperatures can provoke gray rot.

To avoid its occurrence, you should: remove plant debris from the site in a timely manner, disinfest the seeds and prevent thickening of the crops.

Planting and rules for caring for seedlings

Cucumbers require heat, low temperatures are destructive, the plants weaken and die. Seedlings are planted when the threat of frost is completely eliminated. In the north of the country in early June, in the south - early April. The soil for planting must be pre-prepared; compost or manure is added in a ratio of 5 kg per 1 sq.m and a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:5 and left for 5-6 days. Due to fertilizers applied in the fall, the vegetable grows stronger faster, leaves appear after 6 days, if the plant remains lethargic, then the first fertilizing is done ahead of schedule.

Planting recommendations:

use a scheme of 3-4 plants per 1 square. m;
the depth of each hole is no more than 3-4 cm;
distance between holes 50-60 cm;
1.5 tablespoons of complex fertilizer are placed in each hole;
lay the seeds, cover them and compact them;
After planting, the first watering is carried out.

Watering the plants is carried out 1-2 times a week, in hot weather 3-4 times, the volume of liquid is from 4-9 liters per 1 m². To increase the yield, side shoots are pinched: 4 lower ovaries and 2 side stems. The best results are obtained when tied to a vertical support.

On a note!

When flowering, watering is reduced and carried out strictly at the root, so as not to break the fragile lashes and damage the ovary.

Pests and diseases of cucumber varieties

The hybrid is highly resistant to standard cucumber diseases: downy mildew, powdery mildew, cucumber mosaic virus and olive spot. Good resistance to root rot infection, which is a common disease in cucumber cultivation.

A cultivated plant needs protection not only from diseases, but also from a number of pests, which can also cause great harm to its development. You can get rid of them with home remedies:

slugs die from a pinch of salt;
various mites and aphids do not tolerate tobacco infusions or chamomile infusions;
mole crickets are destroyed using alkaline solutions.

You can carry out preventive measures, for example, disinfecting the soil and seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Types of feeding

After transplantation, the first feeding is carried out a week later. During the entire growth period, it must be applied at least three times. As a top dressing choose:

organic fertilizers;
ready-made vitamin and mineral complexes (Good Power, Zdraven, Sudarushka, Energen);
foliar care.

Spraying is carried out between main feedings, especially in rainy weather and when there is a lack of microelements in the soil. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are useful for young seedlings. Potassium and phosphorus compounds strengthen the ovary. When flowers appear, you can use copper sulfate.

Landing in the ground

Typically, planting occurs on the 25th day. By this time, the first developed leaves and buds have already appeared. First, small holes are formed in the ground where the bushes will be transferred. In order not to cause mechanical damage to the plant, the seedlings are removed by spreading the lower edges of the container. You cannot pull it out through the top, this can damage the root system of the cucumbers. Sunny areas with barriers from the wind are suitable for growing. The space between rows is at least 1 meter. You can plant in several ways:

trellis;
tape;
common.

The tape method is suitable only if the plot is long, because it involves planting seedlings at a distance of 80 cm.

The trellis method is the most common and convenient. Difficulties may only arise when installing columns or tensioning the grid. Cucumbers grown on trellises receive much more sun. The optimal distance between seedlings is 1 meter.

Note!

Row planting - in this case, seedlings are planted in the garden bed in rows every 60 cm.

The choice of planting method will depend on the size of the summer cottage and the number of seedlings. After transplanting, the area must be watered abundantly. Lack of moisture slows down the growth of cucumbers and is sometimes detrimental to them. Some farmers cover cucumbers with oilcloth. This approach can greatly harm the cucumbers; they will be hot under cover, and there is also a high risk of high humidity, which contributes to the development of fungus.

Care

The variety in question is not difficult to care for and is easy to grow. Christina f1 only needs timely watering, clean weeding and periodic loosening.

Watering

Water the cucumber once every 2-3 days early in the morning - before the sun starts to bake. 7-8 liters of liquid are poured onto the plantings - best of all, at the root. In dry weather, Christina’s watering volume increases by 2 liters. For the variety, use only warm water, standing in the sun for 20 minutes.

Garter and bush formation

The first thing to do is to tie the cucumber to the trellis as soon as the main stem grows 12-15 cm. Then, pinch the top of the stem by 2 m. The rest of the formation of the variety bush occurs 7-10 days before the fruiting period. At this moment, all the lower shoots of Christina f1 up to the 5th leaf are removed.

Top dressing

The variety, judging by the description, does not need a large amount of fertilizers - on the contrary, you need to monitor the moderation of doses of fertilizing so as not to burn the bushes. Cucumbers respond best to potassium and light organic fertilizers. During the period of active growth of Christina, potassium sulfate and potassium sulfate are used, and during the period of ovary formation and fruiting, mullein solution is used.

Hilling

This procedure protects against frost and parasites and promotes free circulation of air and water. The first sprinkling of the variety is done after planting - the cucumber is completely covered, leaving only the top leaf. Subsequently, hilling is repeated after rainfall and watering - Christina f1 bushes are covered in half for the first 2-3 weeks, then - by a third of their growth.