Sweet pepper Red bull is an early ripening cultivar, which is an achievement of the Gavrish agricultural company. The variety was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation in 2001. The hybrid pepper of the same name is produced by the seed-growing company Russian Garden and is marked F1 NK. The article presents the characteristics and description of the variety, which has nothing in common with the hybrid.
Description and characteristics of the variety
The red bull begins to bear fruit after the emergence of shoots after 95 days. Refers to high-yielding varieties. Designed for cultivation in greenhouses, under temporary film covers and on unprotected beds.
The plant is tall. Powerful bushes end their growth at around 1.5 m. In open ground, the stems most often do not reach such a height; they are much lower.
Dark green cube-shaped fruits form on the bush, which when ripe acquire a bright red color (see photo).
Peppers are large and fleshy, weighing on average 200-250 grams. When forming and rationing, fruits can reach 400 grams. The thickness of the pericarp is on average 8 mm.
Red bull is suitable for all types of culinary processing. Thanks to its juiciness, peppery aroma and characteristic sweetness, it is very good for fresh consumption and in salads.
The yield of the cultivar largely depends on the growing conditions; with proper agricultural technology, it can reach up to 10 kg per square meter. m. The fruiting period of the variety is from the beginning of July to the end of September.
The agricultural company Gavrish also produces Orange Bull pepper seeds. This variety is a later one, the plant is medium-sized, the fruits are identical in shape to the red variety, but have a color corresponding to the name.
Growing peppers in a greenhouse (continued)
Previously, I talked about how I grow bell pepper seedlings https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4545158/post208032042/ And now a continuation of this topic. TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS INTO A GREENHOUSE OR SOIL You cannot plant peppers in cold soil; the soil must have a temperature of at least 15-16 degrees Celsius. Before transplanting, water the seedlings well, make holes of such a size that the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, can easily fit into them. Add a tablespoon of potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine to each well, because pepper does not tolerate chlorine. Fill the hole full with water and, as soon as the water is absorbed, plant the seedlings along with a lump of earth. THE PEPPER IS NOT BURNED, but planted in the same way as it grew in the pot. Instead of potassium fertilizer, you can add 1/3 teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer into the hole when planting and you will not need to do any more fertilizing throughout the summer. Compact the soil around the plants, water and immediately tie them to stakes, with the exception of low-growing varieties, they do not need to be tied. Do not thicken the plantings, this will lead to stem rot. Each variety or hybrid has its own height and feeding area requirements, so follow the recommendations on the seed packet. During the next week, DO NOT WATER the seedlings. On the eve of transplanting the seedlings, all the soil should be watered with Fitosporin-M. Because pepper does not tolerate temperature changes very well, then pepper, of course, is best grown in a separate low greenhouse, because in it the air does not cool as much at night as in high air. In a high greenhouse, it is advisable to plant peppers on insulated soil. As biofuel, you can take dry hay, leaves, unrotted compost, but you should not use manure, because the pepper will grow the above-ground part, but will not set buds. Moreover, if during the initial period of growth there is too much nitrogen in the soil, the pepper will shed not only the ovaries, but also the buds. FEEDING AND WATERING An indicator of the good health of pepper is the lighter color of young leaves compared to the rest. The seedlings take about 10 days to take root. As soon as the next leaf appeared, the seedlings took root. Fertilizing is done every 10-14 days, watered regularly, but moderately. Experience shows that it is better to water the pepper not with water, but with a weak solution of mineral fertilizer weekly as fertilizing and watering. To do this, dissolve 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of azofoska and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of chlorine-free potassium, add microelements (for example, 2 teaspoons of Uniflormicro) and water, using 10 liters of solution per five-meter bed. It is impossible to grow peppers without watering, since they do not tolerate the slightest drying out of the surface layer of soil. But it is imperative to mulch the soil surface under pepper plantings. FORMATION AND PHASES OF DEVELOPMENT OF PEPPER Low-growing varieties and hybrids do not need to be tied up or formed. But here too, how will it work out. I plant tall peppers in a tall greenhouse, and about two dozen short ones separately in a warm bed and cover them in arcs with non-woven covering material. So last year, on bushes about 60-70 cm high, I grew large, fleshy peppers about 15-18 cm long. So on which side they grew more, the bushes fell on that side. I had to tie it up. And tall ones must be tied up and shaped. I'll tell you how I form it. Even while growing seedlings, after 6 true leaves appear, I pinch the crown. For a short period of time, the seedlings freeze, and then begin to grow intensively. At this time, you need to remove all the flowers and ovaries that form in the forks, because the bushes will devote all their strength to these ovaries and the harvest will be scanty. Gradually you need to remove all the leaves up to the fork of the stem, and gradually remove all the stepsons up to the fork. It is advisable to leave 2-3 stems in the fork, no more, but two or three - look at the condition of the bush. All branches and buds directed into the bushes should also be removed, because these branches thicken and shade the bush. Under the conditions of our climate zone (North-West), 2-3 subsequent forks have time to form on each branch. Therefore, you can harvest 2 crops over the summer. At the end of July, as a rule, the first fruits ripen. They need to be removed. All buds and flowers should be cut off, leaving only the ovaries, and the ends of all branches should be pinched to stop further growth. Then by the end of September a lot of good fruits will grow, otherwise there will be a lot of little things that did not have time to grow. The harvest should be shaped depending on the condition of the plant: leave more fruits on strong ones, and fewer on weak ones, plucking out buds or ovaries.
Features of cultivation and care
Seeds for seedlings are sown in the middle zone at the end of February or beginning of March. Seedlings dive when 1 or 2 true leaves appear.
They are planted in a permanent place from mid-May; in case of return frosts, transplantation may take until the beginning of June.
The recommended pattern for placing the crop by the originator is 60 cm between rows and 40 cm distance between bushes.
Due to its height, the Red Bull requires garters to supports. Among the features of care, it is necessary to highlight the need to remove stepsons (side shoots) before the first fork on the bush.
Pepper loves water very much, so the soil is moistened every 2-4 days (depending on weather conditions). During the fruiting period, reduce the amount of watering so that the peppers do not crack.
Peppers must be fed, the soil around the bushes loosened and weeded regularly. Mulching the soil will help reduce the frequency of watering and get rid of weeding and loosening.
Growing seedlings
It is recommended to grow seedlings in peat tablets or pots. Such containers are inexpensive and are sold at any gardening store. Peat tablets retain moisture and are easy to use. If it is not possible to purchase containers, use cardboard milk cartons, flower pots, and plastic cups. The main thing is to pre-wash the container and wipe it with a clean towel.
The soil used is soil from the garden, mixed with purchased soil. To be safe, the composition is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate to kill dangerous bacteria and pathogens. It is recommended to add river sand or sawdust.
Natural components serve as an excellent leavening agent and retain moisture in the soil. Before planting the seeds, the soil is poured into a container and watered abundantly. Next, make small holes at a distance of about 2 cm from each other. A seed is placed in each and sprinkled with soil on top. Keep the seedlings in a warm place.
The soil should always be slightly moist; drying out is unacceptable. For watering, use a pipette so that the water gets directly under the base of the stem. When the first leaves appear, apply liquid organic fertilizers, for example, chicken manure or a solution based on wood ash. If there is a lack of light and heat, peppers are placed under fluorescent lamps to speed up development. Before planting in the garden, seedlings are watered abundantly.
Important ! With rapid growth, they organize a pick. The procedure is necessary to ensure healthy development of the root system. Over time, the roots become larger and require a larger container. The seedlings are carefully removed and transplanted into another container with new disinfected soil. When picking, it is recommended to act carefully, without haste, so as not to damage the still fragile stems and leaves.
Landing
Pepper seedlings are planted in pre-prepared beds on a windless and cloudy morning. The seedlings are carefully removed from the container, leaving a lump of wet earth on the roots, placed in holes in the garden bed, sprinkled and patted with the palm of your hand.
It is recommended to cover each plant with a plastic bag or film during the first week. This will protect the sprouts from rain, winds and possible frosts. In the future, the hybrid needs a garter, so a wooden peg is installed in advance near each bush.
Further care
The basis of any care is timely and regular watering . The hybrid is moistened once every 5-6 days; 1 bush requires about 1.5 liters of water. If the summer is hot and rainy, the amount of watering is reduced. Before the procedure, the beds are loosened to improve the quality of the soil and retain moisture in the ground. The optimal loosening depth is 10–15 cm.
The plant is fed 3-4 times during the ripening period. The first feeding is organized 2 weeks after planting on the site. Slurry, wood ash, superphosphate, and ammonium nitrate are used as fertilizers.
It is recommended to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers. You also cannot do without foliar feeding. To strengthen the immune system, plants are sprayed with a whey solution or Bordeaux mixture.
Diseases and pests
Red bull sweet pepper has good immunity at the genetic level in relation to the main diseases characteristic of nightshade crops.
Despite resistance to diseases, preventive measures are required, including compliance with crop rotation, timely watering, ventilation of greenhouses and inspection of leaves for pests.
To prevent the bushes from being attacked by harmful insects, repellent plants are planted next to the pepper. These include calendula, tansy, etc.
Advantages and disadvantages
In reviews of Red Bull pepper, vegetable growers note the following advantages of the variety:
- early harvest;
- pronounced taste of sweet pepper;
- beautiful and large fruits;
- high yield per sq. m.;
- disease resistance.
The disadvantages of the culture are the tallness of the plant, which requires mandatory staking of the bushes.
Similar varieties
According to the characteristics and description, the Red Bull variety is similar to peppers:
- Little Red Riding Hood;
- Big Boy;
- Red side;
- Fatty;
- Red Cube.
The Red Riding Hood variety has fruits of a similar shape to those of the Bull. Peppers are very fleshy, weighing on average 200 grams, and can gain a maximum weight of up to 250 grams. The crop is mid-early and bears its first fruits after mass germination in 110 or 120 days. The peculiarity of the cultivar is its unpretentiousness to lighting and adaptation to day and night temperature fluctuations. The plant is also distinguished by abundant fruiting. For the season per sq. m. an average of 10 kg is collected. harvest. The crop is little susceptible to disease, has a low-growing bush, and is unpretentious when grown, which is why it is loved by vegetable growers.
Sweet pepper Big Boy is one of the best early ripening varieties (105-115 days) with large cube-shaped fruits and high yields. At the stage of biological ripeness, the vegetables are red and weigh up to 300 grams. every. The walls are fleshy, the thickness of the pericarp reaches 8 mm. In a greenhouse, the bush grows more than a meter, so it requires fixation to supports. Productivity per sq. m. with good care and cultivation in a greenhouse can be up to 8 kg.
Red side is another popular variety from the Gavrish company. The cuboid fruits are quite large and thick-walled, the weight of one specimen reaches 300 g, and the pericarp wall has an average thickness of 7 mm. The plant forms a bush up to 1.5 m high. Genetically resistant to a range of diseases. The variety has many similarities with Red Bull pepper.
The fat man ripens later than the cultivars described above. Fruiting begins no earlier than 120-130 days after sprouts hatch. The plant grows low (up to 55 cm), semi-spreading, and does not require formation or garters. Simultaneously sets up to 12 cube-shaped fruits. Peppers are very meaty, juicy, tasty and aromatic, and have good keeping quality.
Red cube is a breeding achievement of the Gavrish seed company. The crop is mid-season (120 days). Slightly ribbed, cube-shaped fruits of deep red color weigh no more than 200 grams. They have a good pericarp thickness (9 mm). The bush is powerful and spreading, up to 0.7 m in height. Pepper is resistant to tobacco mosaic virus.
Productivity
This vegetable crop can produce up to nine kilograms of juicy fruit from one square meter. Many of those who have tried to grow this red pepper leave their reviews for those who are encountering this plant for the first time. Therefore, it is worth listening to the opinion of experienced gardeners who believe that it is better to harvest the crop at the stage of technical ripeness, when the color of the fruit is light green. Otherwise, the bushes may not be able to withstand a sufficiently large load, which further increases the risk of pest damage to the plant. And the fruits will ripen to a juicy red color, indicating biological ripeness, during storage.
