After what crops should carrots be planted in open ground?

For good carrot yields, proper crop rotation is important. Its essence lies in the fact that the plant is returned to where it already grew this season only after three or four years. It is recommended to plant carrots after certain plants that have a positive effect on them. There are crops after which orange vegetables cannot be planted in open ground for a number of reasons. These include diseases and pests, soil depletion. Typically, related plants are susceptible to similar diseases and require similar nutrients.

The most undesirable predecessor of carrots when planting is parsley, since this plant leaves behind an environment in the ground that is ideal for the proliferation of various bacteria and insects, which have an extremely negative effect on the development of carrots. The harvest will consist of dry, thin fruits. If it is not possible to organize a carrot bed in another place, the soil is well loosened and watered with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate in the autumn. If such treatment was not carried out in the fall, then in the spring similar actions are performed immediately before planting the root crop.

Note! Disinfecting the soil after growing parsley does not guarantee that diseases and insect pests will subsequently bypass carrots.

Beets are also considered not the best predecessor for orange vegetables, since the root crop takes from the soil many of the substances necessary for full development. Cucumber and some varieties of lettuce suffer from the same disease as carrots - white rot, so planting root vegetables after them is also not recommended. Fennel, dill, cumin, anise, coriander belong to the same Apiaceae family as carrots, and contain phytoncides that do not have a very good effect on the orange vegetable.

The carrot bed should not be located in the part of the garden where manure was added as fertilizing. It has a bad effect on its appearance and can significantly shorten the shelf life of this vegetable. It is better to plant potatoes, cucumbers, onions, and cabbage in this place.

The most correct crop rotation is considered to be five-field, which lasts five years. With it, the carrots have enough nutrients and the land is not depleted.

The principle of five-field crop rotation

Five different crops are planted in five beds. The next year they move in a circle, with the second bed becoming the first, and the first moving to the place of the last. This change happens every season. If we assume that a carrot grows in the first bed this year, then it will appear in the same bed next time only after five years. In addition, you need to take into account that there should not be legumes and onions, potatoes and cucumbers, cabbage and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin in neighboring beds. In most cases, root crops are alternated with plants that have a valuable above-ground part. Simplified, this is called the change of “roots” by “tops”.


Roots

Why are crop rotation rules so important?

To obtain good harvests, it is necessary not only to ensure that the plants have enough nutrients and are not bothered by diseases and pests, but also to take into account which crops to plant after. Let’s take a closer look at why you need to adhere to the rules of crop rotation (alternating planting of different crops).

Main reasons:

  1. When growing one monoculture, the same pests and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate in the soil, capable of infecting plants of the same species.
  2. The same vegetable crops absorb certain nutrients from the soil. The removal of the same microelements from the soil greatly depletes it. But this problem can be solved by applying organic and mineral fertilizers.
  3. If crop rotation is not observed, harmful substances released by plant roots also accumulate in the soil. And if a crop is grown in one place for several years in a row, then the concentration of toxins will be high and will have a negative impact on the planted crops.


By adhering to the rules of crop rotation, you can improve the soil structure and avoid many problems in obtaining a high-quality and abundant harvest.
Let's list what needs to be done:

  • plants can be planted in the same place no earlier than after 3–4 years;
  • on the beds it is worth placing vegetable and fruit crops that do not have common diseases and pests with plants growing in the previous season (that is, belonging to different families);
  • plantings of plants with strong roots should be placed next year in place of crops with smaller and shallow roots;
  • root crops are planted in the place of the previous growth of plants from which the crop was harvested in the form of above-ground fruits and vice versa (alternating tops and roots), although there are exceptions (carrots after potatoes);
  • in addition to alternation, you also need to take into account the proximity to plants growing nearby;
  • It’s convenient to draw a diagram of a garden plot and place plantings on it, and next year create a new one, taking into account the rules of crop rotation.

Important! To maintain soil fertility, you can plant green manure: phacelia, rapeseed, mustard, rye, vetch. For the best effect, they should be dug up before flowering.

How to reduce harm from unwanted precursors

Not all gardeners have the opportunity to observe crop rotation. With a limited area of ​​land, it can be difficult to draw up a planting plan taking into account all wishes. In such cases, it is imperative to take care to reduce harm from unwanted precursors through the use of insecticides and fertilizers.

To treat soil against pests, you can use the following insecticides:

  • Decis (1 g per 10 liters of water);
  • Aktaru (2 ml per 10 liters of water).

The soil must be generously sprayed with a working insecticide solution at the rate of 100 g per 1 square meter. m. It is better to carry out treatment in the fall, but spraying is also possible in early spring (2 weeks before applying fertilizer to the soil).

I always try to observe crop rotation on my plot. I usually plant carrots after onions or garlic. I tried to grow this crop for 2 years in a row in the same place, but the harvest that year was very meager and affected by carrot flies. If it is not possible to alternate the beds, I advise you to treat the soil with insecticides and apply fertilizers so as not to waste your energy.

To compensate for the deficiency of nutrients in the soil, in early spring, before digging, it is necessary to add compost to the soil at the rate of 5 kg per 1 sq. m. m. Manure and bird droppings are not added to the garden bed before planting carrots. If this rule is violated, root crops grow crooked and branched.

2 weeks before planting carrot seeds, you can add mineral fertilizers to the soil:

  • superphosphate (40 g per 1 sq. m.);
  • potassium sulfate or potassium salt (40 g per 1 sq. m.).

Mix phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and distribute evenly over the dug up bed, after which water the soil generously.

You can also replenish the deficiency of nutrients in the soil by planting green manure in the garden. Rye and mustard are planted in late autumn. In the spring, 2-3 weeks before the start of sowing, the bed needs to be dug up and compost added. The use of mineral fertilizers in this case is not mandatory.

The best predecessors for carrots in open ground

Although there are many tables that list good and bad predecessors, you should also rely on your own experience, make your own notes and notes, since information on the Internet can be contradictory. If you are a beginner gardener, here are some examples.


Suitable predecessors for carrots:

  • nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes or physalis);
  • pumpkin, cucumbers, watermelons and zucchini;
  • cabbage and strawberries;
  • spicy herbs (basil, savory, tarragon);
  • greens (lettuce, spinach, chard);
  • legumes, onions and garlic are also acceptable precursors.

The worst plants to grow before carrots are parsley, caraway seeds and dill. These crops have a lot in common: diseases, pests and consumables, so it is not recommended to alternate planting them. For the same reason, celery should also be excluded. Root vegetables should also not be planted after beets.

After what crop to plant...

  • Cucumbers can be planted after cabbage and tomatoes.
  • Garlic - after tomatoes and cucumbers.
  • Carrots - after cabbage, cucumbers, onions and early potatoes.
  • Peppers are planted after crops such as early white cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, and legumes.
  • Tomatoes are the same predecessors as peppers.
  • Onions - after tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and early potatoes.
  • Eggplants are the same crops as predecessors, after which it is recommended to plant tomatoes and peppers.
  • Beets - early potatoes, cabbage, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, legumes, pumpkin.
  • Cabbage is planted after potatoes, onions, and tomatoes.

What is better to plant after carrots next year?

To adhere to the rules of crop rotation, you need to know not only what to sow carrots after, but also what to plant after this root crop. The vegetable greatly depletes the soil; for this reason, after it it is desirable to plant crops that have a shallow root system and an “above-ground” harvest.

Important! Carrots can be returned to their original place no earlier than after 2-3 years.

  • The following vegetables and fruits will feel good after carrots:
  • nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet potatoes and physalis);
  • various varieties of pepper;
  • cabbage, mustard and early radish;
  • legumes (peas, beans and beans);
  • berry crops such as strawberries and wild strawberries.
  • Will grow poorly after carrots:
  • melons (watermelons, melons, zucchini);
  • onion and garlic;
  • greens and herbs;
  • celery, spinach and chard.

Useful tips

Tips and recommendations from experienced gardeners will help you grow an enviable harvest of healthy vegetables on your plot:

  1. Draw up a plan for your site. Divide the garden plan into 4 zones and each season move the crops from each group in a circle. Then the plants will return to their original beds after 4 years.
  2. Do not place carrot beds next to large fruit trees. In partial shade, root crops grow worse, and pests feel great.
  3. To protect against pests, plant marigolds and marigolds around the perimeter of the carrot bed.
  4. Between the main crops and in areas empty after harvesting, sow green manure plants - white mustard, phacelia, rapeseed. These green fertilizers with a powerful root system and rapidly growing green mass enrich the soil with useful substances. They are sown, and then mowed and plowed into the ground.

What can you plant next to carrots?

An important point when placing plantings in the garden is the compatibility of different plants. They can either oppress each other or support each other (for example, in pest control).

Find out when to remove carrots from the garden for storage.

When choosing suitable neighbors you should consider:

  • plants grown in the same bed should require the same care;
  • crops should not compete for the same nutrients;
  • should not have common diseases and pests.
  • The following crops are considered useful companions:
  • Everyone knows that onions repel a pest called carrot fly from carrot plantings. But not everyone knows that tobacco, sage or rosemary can also cope with this;
  • legumes (peas and beans) make the soil loose and enrich it with nitrogen;
  • you can plant greens nearby (for example, lettuce), which will quickly ripen and free up space, and large leaves will immediately cover the ground and help retain moisture;
  • spinach will also shade carrot plantings from the sun;
  • tomatoes, radishes, cabbage and radishes are also good neighbors.
  • The following should not be placed next to carrots:
  • beets or horseradish, which will compete;
  • dill, celery and other umbelliferous plants that attract common pests;
  • It is not recommended to plant root crops next to apple trees - such proximity worsens the taste of the fruits of both crops.

Did you know? The Portuguese make jam from carrots and sell them to Europeans. According to the law, jam is prepared only from fruits, so they consider carrots not a vegetable, but a fruit.

Joint planting of carrots

Many summer residents and gardeners practice joint (mixed) planting of carrots on a plot with other crops. It is beneficial to plant the crop next to onion sets, leeks, radishes, peas, parsley, and lettuce.

The best combination when planting together is onions and carrots , since the first crop repels the carrot fly, and the second one repels the onion fly. This results in mutually beneficial cooperation and perfect compatibility. For example, you can plant onions around the perimeter of the bed or alternate rows.

At the same time, the planting pattern should not be too dense; distance must be maintained, because carrots need to be watered more often, and onion development proceeds faster and more intensely.

By the way! An excellent neighborhood for a vegetable crop with marigolds. Flowers have insecticidal properties and also repel pests. Besides, they simply decorate the area.

What to do if it is not possible to alternate plantings?

Today it is not a problem to purchase various fertilizers and chemicals to combat various pests and diseases of vegetable crops. There may be a desire not to bother with alternating plantings and maintaining the correct proximity, but to use “chemistry” to solve all problems.

But it should be remembered that all these chemical compounds will first end up in the soil and then in the stomachs of consumers. So even if you have small gardens, it is better to try to follow the rules of crop rotation at least to a minimum. Some alternative may be the use of green manure.


Growing green fertilizers on the site will help enrich the soil and get rid of many pathogens and pests:

  • mustard fights late blight and enriches the soil with humus;
  • the roots of legumes (vetch and lupine) saturate the soil with nitrogen;
  • rapeseed fills with phosphorus and organic substances;
  • buckwheat enriches with potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen;
  • phacelia reduces acidity;
  • oats, marigolds and calendula destroy the nematode.

Did you know? The 5.84m long carrot was grown in Britain by farmer Joe Atherton. She broke all records for length, but most of it

-
thin tail.
We hope that the tips from our article will help you in practice increase your carrot yields and improve their quality without much effort and expense. Have a good and tasty harvest!

Why is it important to observe the compatibility of vegetable crops?

Cultures growing nearby influence each other, helping or hindering development. Compatible plants protect neighbors from pests and enrich the soil with mutually beneficial substances. Joint planting of friendly crops allows you to rationally use the garden space, grow a larger number of different vegetables in one area and improve their quality.

What are the consequences?

Incompatible cultures suppress and inhibit each other's development. They compete for water, food and sunlight, and contribute to the emergence of diseases and pests. This leads to soil depletion, a decrease in the quality and taste of vegetables, and their yield.

Features of the plant


Parsley is a biennial plant. In the first year, foliage and roots develop. In the second year, all the energy goes into the development of shoots with peduncles and the ripening of seeds.

The spice grows best with sufficient light, in loose, fertilized soil, and loves good, but not excessive, watering. Leaf and root parsley have their own characteristics. Leaf parsley has a thin and highly branched root. What is the difference between root parsley? With a fleshy cone-shaped root, it is more demanding of soil moisture and nutrition.

What is it not recommended to do this with?

  • Umbelliferae (dill, celery, cumin, cilantro, fennel, coriander). The Apiaceae family has the same needs for minerals. After plants of its type, parsley experiences a nutritional deficiency, and the appearance and taste of the seasoning deteriorate. In the place where umbrella plants grew, it is permissible to plant parsley only after four years.
  • Carrot. In addition to the fact that carrots belong to the Umbelliferae family, their diseases are dangerous for parsley. The spicy plant is affected by carrot pests, which include carrot psyllid, celery fly, umbrella moth, and carrot fly.
  • Other greens (sorrel, lettuce, basil). The root systems of different greens consume microelements from the same soil level. Therefore, these plants will not be suitable predecessors for parsley.

For root parsley, in addition to the listed crops, it is not advisable to select other root crops with a similar type of structure and root nutrition as predecessors: beets, radishes, turnips.

What does compatibility depend on?

The compatibility of carrots with predecessors and successors depends on the minerals consumed and added to the soil.

  1. Firstly, during growth, a vitamin-rich vegetable needs nitrogen, which can be taken from the air. Due to it, green tops grow and the size of the root crop increases.
  2. Secondly, there is a need for potassium, which is responsible for photosynthesis, fruit quality and vegetable resistance to disease.
  3. Thirdly, carrots need phosphorus, which is responsible for its taste. From the above it follows that the predecessors of the orange root vegetable had to consume other microelements or the same ones, but in small quantities.
  4. Also, carrots must be resistant to diseases of previous plantings.

To grow a good harvest you need to know all the intricacies of the process. Here you can read about the time of planting carrots, seed preparation, planting methods and procedures, seeders, planting patterns, the best neighbors and sowing seeds.

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