Description and cultivation of currants on a trunk with your own hands, planting and care

Nuances of caring for standard currants

In order for a standard plant to grow resistant to negative factors, and for the fruits to be large, juicy and tasty, several important points are taken into account:
Proper planting. The rules are different for all varieties and varieties of crops. Full compliance with the technological process also implies an understanding of the features of preparing the pit, applying fertilizers, and garter. Feeding. Not everyone adheres to this rule, but in vain, because by using fertilizing, you can significantly increase productivity. Protection from pests and diseases. Currants are a vulnerable crop, therefore there is a need to implement preventive and therapeutic measures. With this approach, there is a high probability of saving the crop. Pruning and watering

It is important to trim excess branches in a timely manner and regularly water the plant.

Watering

Excess moisture and stagnation of water are undesirable. However, watering must be done regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. Otherwise, the quality of the harvest will deteriorate not only in a particular year, but also in subsequent years. The buds of plants that lack moisture are very weak, the berries are smaller and quickly fall off. The consequences of drying out are observed for a long time.

Loosening, mulching

Tillage begins in the last days of April. When loosening, maintain a depth of 7 cm. Next, the soil is mulched. The optimal thickness of the mulch layer is up to 10 cm. Loosening is carried out every 14 days, and weeds are also weeded.

Fertilizer application

When planting plants, lime is added to the soil (0.3–0.8 kg/m2 at pH 4–5.5). For 1 sq. m of soil, it is enough to use a mixture of the following substances: potassium sulfate - 25-35 g, granulated superphosphate - 150-200 g, organic matter - 3-4 kg.

Fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are very useful for currants. To saturate the soil with these elements, you can apply manure or humus

It is also important to remember about the dangers of chlorine, so before purchasing you should carefully study the composition of the selected fertilizer. Spraying with fresh cow's milk helps increase productivity; it is first mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Trimming

Late autumn and early spring are suitable for pruning, namely, the period when the leaves have already fallen or have not yet formed. The plant is formed from 16-20 branches of different ages, leaving 3-5 zero shoots annually. Branches whose fruiting lasted 6-7 years are removed.

A thorough inspection of the bush plant is carried out, according to the results of which very long and too low, branched, crooked and tangled branches that interfere with the normal growth of other shoots are cut off. After completion of the work, sections larger than 8 mm are treated with garden varnish.

Garter

Usually the need for a garter arises in the fourth or fifth year of the plant’s life, when the tree is large and spreading. In areas with gusty winds, a garter is used as a way to protect against negative influences. Proper pruning helps prevent severe sagging of branches. Up to 20 shoots are left, the remaining branches are attached to a support.

Pre-winter shelter

Currants are prepared for wintering by performing the following steps:

• 14 days before frost, currants are no longer watered, which allows the plant to shed its leaves;
• collect fallen leaves and remove the old layer of mulch;
• the length of the branches is reduced by 10-15 cm if this stage was skipped last year;
• the soil is loosened, if fertilizers were not applied after harvesting, fertilized with a potassium-phosphorus mixture, then hilled to a height of 10 cm, mulched with sawdust or fallen leaves from ornamental plants (the optimal layer thickness is 5-7 cm);
• Watering is allowed just before frost and only if the soil is very dry (the mulch is first removed).

In the northern regions, branches are bent to the snow cover, which reduces the risk of freezing. Growing currants on a trunk is a creative process. This approach to planting allows you to save space in your garden and place many trees on a small plot of land. As a result, the bush plant acquires an attractive appearance and produces a good harvest. There are a lot of advantages, but there are practically no disadvantages.

Growing berry crops using new technologies is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. A good option for small plots or local areas is standard currants, which will not only reward the owners with an excellent harvest, but will also delight them with a spectacular, decorative appearance. However, in order to grow it, it is necessary to follow a number of mandatory agrotechnical practices when planting, caring for and forming the bush.

Features of care

After planting, standard-shaped currants must be cared for regularly. The main measures for caring for the crop include watering, fertilizing, pruning and pre-winter shelter.

Watering is carried out as needed. The soil should be saturated with moisture to a depth of approximately 1 m. The amount and frequency of watering depends on the air temperature and soil type. Plants should be watered when the soil dries out after previous moisture. At the same time, you cannot wait for the substrate to completely dry out - drought can destroy the currants.

Fertilizers are applied 3 times a year according to the following scheme:

For the first 3 years, the shrub is formed as a standard form. The list of necessary actions is given in the sections above. Three-year-old plants are subjected to sanitary pruning annually. The procedure is carried out in early spring before the start of sap flow. As part of sanitary pruning, it is necessary to remove branches:

An important measure in caring for plants is preparation for winter. The procedure takes place in 3 stages.

CURRANTS BY BUSH

And of course, one cannot help but say a few words about the simplest and most common way of growing currants - by bush. Black currants bear fruit well for 10-15 years, red currants last longer. Moreover, the first 6-8 years are considered the most productive, then diseases begin and the yield gradually decreases.

It is customary to plant currants in lower areas of the garden plot - where there is more moisture. But frosts are harmful; flowers and even young shoots suffer from them. Therefore, it is better to plant higher, in rows, at a distance of 1 -1.5 × 2-3 m. If you are fond of strawberries, then you can plant them in the rows, increasing them.

If you live in Siberia and regions with a similar climate, where there is heat and drying winds, then you can use this method of planting. Do not trim the currant bushes, but deepen them deeply, leaving branches 3-5 cm long or more above the surface of the ground. Such a seedling does not suffer from bad weather, it takes root quickly and easily, forming a fairly strong bush by the fall, which will delight you with a harvest the next year.

In order for the seedling to take root well, careful care is required, including frequent watering, loosening, mulching and fertilizing (preferably humus with a small amount of ash)

However, in the first year of a seedling’s life, use fertilizers, especially mineral ones, very carefully. It is better to introduce them from the second year of life

It is customary to shape currants; we had separate articles about this. And now let’s note the successful experience of our gardener readers, when they do without pruning at all. Nature sometimes copes well with this on its own.

The usual technology for growing currants is as follows: for the first 5-7 years, the currant bears fruit, then, with the help of rejuvenating pruning, its fruiting is extended for another 2-3 years, then the plantation is uprooted, planting 1-2-year-olds again.

You can do it differently. Make layering from each 3-year-old currant bush at a distance of 1.5 m, so that a second, parallel row is formed along the main one. 2-3 years after creating a branch row (parallel to the main one), the old bushes of the main row can be removed. If you have one row of currants, then you can make 2 branches (parallel). Dig up the soil in the place of the old row, apply full fertilizer and immediately lay a layering row in the place of the old one.

Here is the experience of a gardener from Krasnoyarsk M. Makarov. He writes that for 15 years of such alternation of rows there were no pests or diseases, and young, healthy, strong currant plants produced 10-15 kg of large berries per bush.

Currants are very moisture-loving, so once every 7-10 days, especially in drought, it is necessary to water them thoroughly so that the entire root layer of the soil is saturated with water.

If you don’t like pruning, you can limit yourself to minimal pruning: cut out only diseased and broken branches. You also don’t have to loosen the soil, since currants have shallow roots. Apply fertilizers only superficially or in liquid form. The soil under the currant bushes after this addition of organic matter is fertile, “rich”; a mass of roots is formed that feed the plant. Naturally, with such care there is no need to talk about a bad harvest.

Creating a trunk from an adult plant

Standard currants can be formed from an adult plant. It is necessary to get down to business in early spring, before the buds open.

1. A thick shoot that grows vertically is chosen as the future trunk. If there is no such branch on the plant, you need to find another one with the parameters as close as possible. All other shoots are cut at soil level.
2. On the shoot chosen as the trunk, all branches are cut off, except for the top few. There should be no stumps left after this procedure.
3. A stable support is dug in next to the trunk, which will protect the trunk from breaking off under the influence of wind or stuck snow. At the same time, the supporting structure will help the tree maintain an even shape.
4. The growth that will appear during the summer must be removed. The same is done with young shoots appearing on the trunk.
5. At the beginning of autumn, the apical buds on the branches of the crown need to be pinched - this will force the shoots to branch.

In just a year, the bush will look like an elegant tree. Subsequently, the desired crown shape is formed and maintained by pinching the ends of the shoots and removing all unnecessary branches. If necessary, after 2–3 years the resulting tree can be transplanted to another location. It is better to do this in early spring.

How to care for standard currants

Caring for standard currants will allow you to grow a miniature tree strong, maintain its unusual shape and get a rich harvest of delicious berries. If you do not take the recommended actions, sooner or later the bush will lose its standard shape and the standard currant will return to its traditional spreading state. Let us briefly consider the necessary procedures for caring for standard currants.

Watering mode

Systematic watering is extremely important, since standard currants do not tolerate drought. Along with this condition, the soil should not be over-moistened, since excess moisture will also have a bad effect on the health of the plant. Therefore, watering should be moderate, and under normal weather conditions without prolonged rains - weekly. It is also necessary during the dry autumn months. The recommended volume of water is 30 to 40 liters.

Soil care

Every 3 weeks, loosening and weeding of the area around the bush is indicated. This will remove weeds that take away nutrition and moisture from the currants, as well as saturate the soil with oxygen and better distribute moisture between its layers. Mulching the surface of the earth with sawdust, straw or dry grass will reduce the number of these not always pleasant procedures. This will help retain moisture in the soil, prevent it from drying out and overheating, and in cold weather - freezing of the roots. Weeds will also not be able to break through the mulch layer.

Fertilizers

In spring, it is recommended to feed currant bushes with urea at the rate of 20 g per 1 specimen. In the summer, you can apply both mineral fertilizers and organic matter. The first ones to use are superphosphate and potassium sulfate (35 and 15 g, respectively). It is recommended to apply manure from organic fertilizers: 3-5 kg ​​of fertilizer is enough for 1 currant bush. In the fall, you need to repeat the application of mineral fertilizing, but the rate of superphosphate is increased to 45-60 g.

How to trim standard currants

Pruning standard currant bushes is one of the most important procedures, without which the plant will return to its original shape. Every year it is necessary to remove side branches and shoots, adjust the contours of the crown, and thin it out. Every 4-5 years you need to carry out anti-aging pruning. The standard form of currant needs to be cleaned from the root shoots and shoots in its lower part, since they cause the main damage to the decorative qualities of the plant.

Standard form of currants and tying

Due to the fragility of standard currant bushes, they need strong support. Strong winds, as well as the weight of its own crown during the fruiting period, can tilt the trunk or damage it. Therefore, a strong peg is dug into the soil next to the plant, or support structures with slats are placed, to which the trunk of the bush is tied.

Shelter for the winter

Shelter for the winter is especially important in severe frost conditions, characteristic of central Russia. If the winter is snowy, standard currants can successfully overwinter under a layer of snow

In regions where frosts alternate with thaws, it is recommended to create an artificial layer of spunbond or other similar material that covers the bush.

How to properly plant currants in open ground

In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to its growing conditions, however, to obtain a high yield with the best vitamin and nutritional characteristics, it is necessary to follow a number of rules.

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air growth regime, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper layer of soil and cannot consume moisture from the deeper layers of the soil. This must be taken into account when choosing a planting site, since soil that is too wet is dangerous, and soil that is too dry requires frequent watering.

Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants are considered to be a well-lit area of ​​soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by how long during the day the currant is exposed to direct sunlight.

The measure of site moisture is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should be no higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for soil acidity are also clearly regulated; soils of neutral and slightly acidic reactions are selected for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief, containing up to 0.5 m of fertile layer with protection from both the direct influence of wind currents and from stagnant air.

Choosing a landing time

The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warm weather until the buds open using cuttings or grown layering and in the fall in September-October. The autumn planting method is considered the best, since its use creates better conditions for the plant to survive and enter the phase of rapid development at the beginning of spring.

Soil treatment and preparation

It is better to plant shrubs at a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. The required number of bushes for planting is determined from the condition that with normal care, currants produce from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

Soil for currants and fertilizers

As planting material, it is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system and no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the planting hole are 40*40*40 cm; it is better to dig the hole either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil settlement.

It is necessary to prepare two layers of soil for planting a bush:

1. The first consists of earth dug out of a hole, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has high biological value; serves to feed the roots, located below them in level.
2. The second also consists of fertile soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

The process of planting in open ground

Holding the bush with one hand, place it above the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Next, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, taking into account that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

A tree trunk circle with a diameter of 40-50 cm is formed around the planted bush, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is added without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the above-ground part of the plant into line with the root system.

How to grow it yourself?

To grow standard currants yourself, you should choose a currant variety for planting that produces a minimum number of shoots from the bottom of the bush. Many varieties of both black and red currants are suitable. In the form of beautiful trees they will look very exotic and original. The optimal time for planting should be chosen in accordance with the climatic conditions of the region of residence.

For example, in the northern regions you can plant plants in the fall, but in zones with a temperate climate - in the spring, preferably as soon as the soil thaws.

Today, gardeners have only 2 options for growing currants on a trunk. These include own root and rootstock. For any seedling, you should prepare a hole with fertilizer 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5. Next, you should drive a high support into the bottom (it can be a metal or wooden stake), to which the plant will be tied in the future. Seedlings should only be planted vertically. Sprinkling the root with soil, the trunk must be tied to the support as carefully as possible

Finally, it is very important to water the plant well.

Using the own root method, you can make a standard from any variety of currant. You can also grow it from a variety you already have in your garden.

To do this you will need the following.

Cut off all the shoots from the desired plant and leave only one, which is very well developed. It is advisable to do this in the spring. The top should be pinched. The shoots of young buds that remain should also be pinched above the third and fifth leaves in the future.

In the spring, the procedure must be repeated again. In the third year, the procedure should be repeated only if there is a need (for example, when there are diseased or drying shoots on the trunk, which are very important to remove in time). As the trunk grows, it must be constantly tied to a support.

No less popular is the method of growing standard currants on a rootstock. I would like to immediately note that this growing method is considered new and more difficult, especially for beginners.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how you can use this method.

Side shoots from the plant should be cut off, and the top should be pinched. This must be done until the trunk is 70-75 cm in height. Next, you need to select a fresh cutting for the scion. According to many experts, you can take a completely different plant

The selected cuttings are grafted onto a standard. It is very important to blind all the buds on the trunk. In the future, in the first few years, it is necessary to pinch out the shoots.

Which method to choose will depend on the desired result, the time available and the personal preferences of the gardener. Each method has its own pros, cons and difficulties.

Do I need to prune red currants?

Overgrown currant bushes can be found in abandoned areas. And if in early spring they delight with clusters of elegant flowers, in summer there are only rare small berries on the branches, and the bushes themselves most often look sick and pitiful. Currant plantings need care, as they love lighting and fertilizing, as well as access to air, so that pests and diseases do not develop in shaded and dense thickets. Pruning regulates growth and shapes the crown, and also heals and rejuvenates the bushes. Indeed, with a decrease in the total number of shoots, the plant gives up its strength in a targeted manner, while the cluster develops in favorable conditions, and berries are formed that are exceptional in taste and size.

Well-groomed red currant bushes produce an excellent harvest

How to grow standard currants

There are no particular differences in caring for ordinary and standard currant bushes. To obtain high yields, timely watering and fertilizing, proper pruning and protection from pests are important. The garter of branches is of great importance, since part of the crop easily breaks off the fruiting shoots.

Watering and fertilizing schedule

Standard currants need moderate watering. The soil should not dry out during the period of flowering and formation of ovaries, this will negatively affect the future harvest. The watering schedule depends on the weather and soil quality. On hot summer days, when there is no rain, currants are watered twice a week, pouring 2-3 buckets under each bush. It is convenient to organize drip irrigation.

Fertilizing is carried out in the same way as for ordinary berry bushes, without overusing urea. In spring, complex fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are applied. In the summer, during the formation of the crop, rotted manure, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added. In September, the plants are also fed with the last two components.

Mulching and loosening the soil

After each watering, the tree trunk circle must be loosened and emerging weed sprouts removed. If you neglect the procedure, a crust will form on the surface of the soil, the soil will become compacted, and the roots will not be able to receive enough oxygen.

Mulching around the tree trunk helps simplify maintenance. Mown grass, tree bark, compost, peat, sawdust, etc. are used as mulch.

Comment! You can cover the ground with black non-woven material; it will also help protect the tree trunk from excessive drying out and weed growth.

Trimming

Standard currants are pruned annually, removing shoots that appear on the trunk and from the roots. Starting from the fourth year after planting, branches that have stopped bearing fruit are cut out. They maintain the shape of the crown by removing shoots that grow inward and interfere with the access of light and air to the fruiting branches.

Garter

A strong support allows the branches not to break off. From the moment of planting, standard currants are tied to a support as in the photo, above the grafting site. Like grapes, this crop cannot grow on its own trunk without support. To prevent the branches from breaking off under a bountiful harvest, they build an umbrella chatalovka:

• a self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the support;
• pieces of twine of the required length are tied to it;

The branches are tied up, slightly pulled up. This way the shoots are reliably protected from breaking off at the junction with the trunk.

Preparing for winter

Golden currant, which is used as a rootstock, is frost-resistant and can tolerate down to -33 °C without snow or shelter. Self-rooted standard black currants are less resistant to cold and can freeze. To protect against severe frosts, especially in snowless winters, young seedlings are wrapped in a cover made of two layers of agrospan.

Methods for forming a currant trunk

The trunk is the trunk from the ground to the first skeletal branch. It should be smooth and without side shoots. To achieve this, there are two shaping methods. The first involves regular removal of lateral shoots - the buds are cut off with pruning shears, leaving only the shoots in the upper part of the trunk.

The second method is simpler - use a special tube that does not transmit light. It is put on the trunk. The length of the tube should correspond to the planned height of the trunk, plus a few centimeters that will go into the soil. This design will prevent the growth of new branches and the appearance of root shoots.

Scheme of forming a trunk using a tube that does not transmit light

Features of cultivation

Growing currants on a trunk is only half the battle. Taking care of her is much more responsible. Plants on the trunk should be watered regularly, but do not flood the soil too much so that water does not stand in it. It should penetrate the ground to a depth of one and a half meters. In autumn, it is best to water the plants as often as possible. Don’t forget about regular fertilizers

Pruning to rejuvenate standard currants should be done no earlier than the fourth year; it is also very important to remove shoots that begin to thicken and old non-fruiting shoots. During the winter period, it is very important to properly cover standard currants so that they can overwinter without problems even on harsh cold and snowy days.

It is also recommended to tie up the currant branches, otherwise they may break under their own weight. To do this, many experts recommend screwing a self-tapping screw into the support to which the barrel is attached. You can tie twine or a special garden rope to the self-tapping screw in the amount of branches you need to tie. Using the ends of a rope or twine, you need to tie it around the currant branches and then pull them higher.

Advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

1. The berry clusters and fruits are significantly larger, since the sun illuminates the bush more evenly.
2. Earlier and more uniform ripening, minimal yield losses and easy harvesting.
3. Currants are less susceptible to insect attack and disease due to their high crown. It is easy to treat with pest repellents, and good ventilation will protect against fungal diseases.
4. Such bushes can be planted more densely, since they are small and take up much less space than ordinary ones.
5. The duration of fruiting and the life of the bush in general is higher than usual.
6. The tree trunk circle is easier to water, weed and loosen, since branches do not interfere.

Minuses:

1. Due to the high trunk, there is practically no winter protection: the bush is not covered with snow, it will have to be wrapped up for wintering.
2. Unstable in strong winds: almost all varieties can break, so you need to have strong supports.
3. As a rule, the yield of currants grown on a trunk decreases several times after 7 years. It is almost impossible to restore it.

Advantages of growing currants on a trunk

Growing currants on a trunk is becoming increasingly popular. Many gardeners have appreciated the advantages of this method from their own experience or the example of their neighbors.

The advantages of standard varieties are obvious:

• decorativeness;
• more compact placement of berries;
• high yield.

Thanks to good sunlight, the taste of the berries improves and the sugar content increases compared to the same varieties in bush form. Crop losses from damage upon contact with the ground are eliminated.

In which regions can currants be grown on a trunk?

White, black and red currants on a trunk can be grown in any region suitable for gardening, selecting the appropriate varieties

It is important that plants have immunity from powdery mildew and other common diseases

Advice! It is advisable to choose a place for planting that is protected from strong winds and well lit by the sun. The soil should not be swampy and acidic, with groundwater close to it.

Varieties

There are many varieties of currants. All varieties can be divided into 3 groups: black, red and yellow.

Blackcurrant on a trunk

Plants belonging to this variety bear black berries. The fruits are often sweet. This crop is quite whimsical - in addition to standard agricultural technology, black currants require shelter for the winter. And without pre-winter preparation, the branches often freeze. Among the popular black varieties are the following:

• Stork;
• Monastic;
• University;
• Sibylla;
• Commemorative;
• Premiere.

Red

The fruits of red currants acquire a bright red color when ripe. This variety is easy to grow for beginners as the plants grow and bear fruit successfully with basic care. Agronomists advise choosing varieties for garden cultivation:

• Viksne;
• Rondome;
• Natalie;
• Accordion;
• Red Cross;
• Chulkovskaya.

Yellow

An unusual variety of yellow currant is represented by the Imperial Yellow variety. The fruits are larger than those of the black and red forms. The plant also has decorative value: many gardeners grow this crop to decorate their garden plot.

We form standard currants with our own hands

You can not only buy currant seedlings on a trunk, but also grow them yourself. There are two ways to get them:

• formation on one's own roots;
• grafting onto a powerful rootstock.

The first method was used by the pioneer gardeners of standard currants, and the second appeared a little later, but confidently won the palm. Nowadays, most seedlings from nurseries are obtained by grafting valuable varieties onto special rootstocks. This is not so difficult if you carefully read the “instructions” and do everything correctly.

Formation of own root currants on a trunk

To obtain a standard form, you need to trim the bush so that it resembles a tree (has a trunk and crown). Any varietal currant you have will be suitable: red, white, black or golden. The most beautiful, of course, will be the trees with red fruits. Keep this in mind if decorativeness is the determining factor for you.

Formation begins in early spring, when it has already become warmer (the frosts have stopped), but sap flow has not yet begun. This is done as follows:

1. We leave the straightest and most fully developed shoot on the bush for 1-2 years (its length should be close to 1 m).
2. We cut off all other shoots at the root.
3. On the remaining central conductor we pinch the top.
4. We leave the top 3-4 buds, and “blind” all those located below (i.e., remove them).
5. By summer, shoots will grow from the remaining buds - cut them off after 4-5 leaves.
6. Next year we perform this procedure on the shoots of the next order.
7. From the third year we stop shaping, only thinning the crown (removing thickening and improperly growing shoots) and, if necessary, carrying out sanitary pruning.
8. Every year we remove all the buds on the trunk (if they appear) and remove the shoots.

Creation of standard currants using grafting

To obtain a grafted form of standard currant, you need a suitable rootstock. Most often this is a golden currant seedling. By the way, there are certain varieties that are grown specifically for rootstocks. You can find out about them in nurseries. But to obtain currants on a trunk, the simplest variety available to you is also suitable.

Creating a standard form using grafting step by step:

1. We grow the rootstock by rooting the corresponding cuttings. We remove all unnecessary shoots on it, leaving one - the straightest and strongest. The vaccination can be done when it reaches 80 cm in height.
2. Grafting time is early spring. To implement this, we take a cutting of a winter-hardy and productive variety of currant, which is also highly resistant to diseases/pests. It should be woody, with mature buds and approximately 5 mm thick (+/-).
3. We cut it to 3-4 buds.

We graft onto the trunk using improved copulation (how to do this is written here).

1. We remove all of our own buds from the trunk.
2. In the summer, when new shoots grow from the grafted buds, we cut them (pincer) above the 3rd leaf. This is done when the shoots reach 10-12 cm. If they grow longer than 15 cm, increased windage will appear, which can cause wind damage to the tree. Therefore, such pinching should always be done in a timely manner.
3. In the second year, in the summer, we pinch the shoots of the following order (also above the 3rd leaf).
4. In all subsequent years, we carry out sanitary and thinning pruning (as in the case of our own root trunk). In addition, from the age of 4, there is a need for anti-aging pruning. It is performed by removing old fruit-bearing shoots.
5. Every year, shoots will form on the trunk of the rootstock, which must be removed in a timely manner (preferably in bud condition).

When to plant black currants?

With an open root system, planting can be done in the spring, but it is better in the fall, so the plant will take root well and grow more actively in the spring.

In the middle zone they plant at the beginning of October, in the Moscow region - at the end of September, and in Siberia - this is September or October.

With a closed root system, there are no specific planting dates.

Autumn planting

If you choose, autumn is the best time to plant blackcurrants.

Preparing the landing site:

1. The depth of the planting holes is up to half a meter, approximately 55 by 55 centimeters wide.
2. 10 liters of humus are poured into the pits, 45 grams of potassium chloride and 100 grams of superphosphate are added.
3. The top is covered with soil about 10 centimeters thick. This will prevent burns to the root system.
4. The pits are prepared two weeks before planting so that the soil is compacted.

Rules and recommendations:

1. Bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m.
2. Seedlings are placed in soil with a slope of 45 degrees.
3. An important condition is to deepen the root collar into the ground by about eight centimeters.
4. The roots are evenly distributed so that more shoots and roots are formed from the buds in the ground. Thus, the bush will grow powerful with many strong branches.
5. The roots are covered with soil, compacted and the soil is added to the edge of the hole.
6. Make a furrow around the bush and pour water.
7. The soil next to the bush is mulched with humus.
8. The last stage is pruning the shoots on the seedling, which are 10-15 centimeters above the ground. So that there are no more than five buds on the remaining shoots. New seedlings are obtained from the cut parts; to do this, you need to stick them into moist soil.

Planting in spring

In areas with little snow, currants are planted in the spring in April or early May, when the soil has completely thawed. It is better to use seedlings in containers during this period.

The preparation and planting of currants is carried out according to the same principles as for autumn planting. It is better to cook pits in the fall. Watering the planted bushes is done every 2-3 days.

Summer landing

In summer, currants are planted with a closed root system or planted on a trunk.

The method of planting currants on a trunk has the following steps:

A bare summer shoot, thick enough, is taken and planted in a permanent place. Then the top is pinched off.

Next year, when shoots appear, in August, pinch each branch.

You need to decide on the length of the trunk and remove the lower shoots, leaves and root shoots.

After a year, it is necessary to pay attention to the dense crown. Pinch the tops of all branches and remove everything unnecessary from the trunk

The first berries should appear this year.

Next summer will be the first serious harvest. On the trunk, pinching is again carried out according to the same principle as in previous years. Only one task will be added - removing old and black branches. In the future, everything needs to be repeated every year.

The lifespan of a standard currant is 3-4 years longer than that of a regular bush. The result is a small tree.

Currants on a trunk

Pests and diseases

Standard currants get sick less often than bush currants if the varieties are selected correctly. The most common pests are:

1. The bud moth is a tiny butterfly with a wingspan of about 2 cm. The caterpillars overwinter at the base of the bush, in the spring they eat the contents of the buds and after flowering they become butterflies. They lay eggs in berries, destroying the crop.
2. Currant aphid is easily identified on the plant by leaves with swollen spots, as well as twisted young shoots. Insects live on the underside of leaf blades and overwinter on the branches of berry crops.
3. Bud mite - eats plant buds. It can be noticed in the spring by its overly large swollen buds. Having eaten the core, the mite moves to a new place, depleting the currant bush.
4. The currant glass beetle is a butterfly whose caterpillars live in the shoots, eating away the inside. The pest can be detected when pruning along the black core of cut branches.

Insecticides are used to control pests (Aktara, Fufanon, Iskra, etc.).

To protect against insects, you can plant marigolds and pyrethrums in the tree trunk. Before the buds open, currants are doused with boiling water to destroy caterpillars, mites and aphids overwintering on the bush.

Currants are also susceptible to various fungal and viral infections. For prevention purposes, they are treated with fungicides in early spring. Repeat spraying during budding and after flowering if there are alarming signs. Viral infections cannot be treated; diseased plants are removed from the site and burned.

Diseases and pests: prevention and control methods

Many currant varieties are resistant to diseases and pests. However, not all plants are protected from infections and parasites. A gardener faced with a problem must react in time, otherwise the currants may die. Among the diseases that are dangerous for the crop are anthracnose, powdery growth, septoria, goblet rust and terry.

Pests are also dangerous for currants. Most often, plantings are affected by aphids, spider and bud mites, glasswort, blackcurrant berry sawfly and currant gall midge.

To avoid problems, agronomists recommend resorting to prevention in advance. Effective preventive measures are considered:

• moderate watering;
• timely feeding;
• annual sanitary pruning;
• digging up the soil after the end of the growing season;
• preventive spraying with Chlorophos at a concentration of 0.2%.

Important! The affected parts of the plant must be cut off and burned before treatment.

Creating currants on a trunk will require the efforts of the farmer. However, such work is not very difficult to carry out, as it seems at first glance. Having worked on the seedlings, the gardener will receive a beautiful plant that bears fruit no worse than a bush.

Specifics of planting work

In order to properly grow trunks, currant seedlings with stable varietal characteristics, such as frost resistance and natural immunity to fungal and viral infections, are initially purchased.

Planting of seedlings is carried out at the end of summer.

1. On a personal plot, choose a well-lit place, sheltered from gusty winds.
2. The soil is dug up, cleared of weeds and mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers.
3. 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings, planting holes measuring 60 cm in diameter and depth are dug in the area.
4. Fertile soil is placed in the hole, a support peg is driven in and watered abundantly.
5. The distance between plantings should be at least 30-35 cm, between rows from 1 to 1.5 m.
6. The seedling for the standard should be free of branches and foliage; the top should be pinched.
7. A prepared seedling is placed in a hole with fertile soil, the roots are evenly spread and covered with soil.
8. The soil is compacted and watered, and the seedling is secured to a support peg.

Important! A seedling for growing a trunk is planted upright, without a 45-degree tilt, which is practiced when planting currant bushes.

Video: mulching red currants in autumn

All this is done in order to enjoy their own berries at the end of the season. Although the season ends not with harvesting, but with preparing the site for winter. And then there is spring and new troubles.

For the pleasure of eating delicious jelly or fresh juicy red currant berries, you have to plant bushes, water them, care for them, and prune them. But this work brings joy to gardeners and brings fruit.

• Author: Armenuhi Poghosyan
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Landing Features

When figuring out for yourself how to grow standard currants, you should familiarize yourself with the peculiarities of planting the crop. Spring and autumn are suitable for work. The specific period is chosen depending on the climate zone. For example, if there is a lot of snow, planting is done in the fall, with little snow cover - in the spring.

Prepare a planting hole of standard dimensions - 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m. Lay humus or compost and add 2 cups of ash. Next, they drive in a reliable support, which the plant needs throughout its life. The seedling is placed vertically in the hole, without tilting, then attached to a support. The straightened roots are buried and provide abundant watering.

Selection of currant varieties

Both dark and light currants are suitable. But in order to get the expected result, it is necessary to select the right varieties of standard plants. Below are the most common options:

• Black currant. This type of bush plant is the most popular, but suffers more than others from severe frosts. The best varieties include Pamyatnaya, Monasheskaya and Universitetskaya currants, and Stork. You should not grow black currants in Siberia and other areas where low temperatures prevail.
• Red Ribes. No special conditions required. Red currant grows well on a trunk. The main thing is to choose the right crop variety. The most common options are Bayan, Rondom, Natalie, Viksne, and Sugar variety. The fruits are great for making desserts.
• Yellow (white) currant. This variety is highly valued in Europe. The best variety is Imperial Yellow. Flowering is later than that of dark currants, so the crop does not suffer from frost.

What to do if red spots appear on currant leaves, the best means to combat itRead

Currant selection

Standard raspberry

To form or grow a standard currant bush, many gardeners ask themselves: which currant to choose? Experts say that black, white, and gold will do. There are also red currants on the trunk.

The most popular is the standard blackcurrant. The berries of the ornamental bush are large, sweet, with minimal sourness. However, there are some disadvantages. A plant with black berries is best grown in the southern regions. Where spring and autumn are cold, the branches of the crop may freeze. The Pamyatnaya variety is recommended for forming a standard. Also suitable are Stork, Sibylla, Premier a.

Standard currant

Red currants on a trunk will take root without problems and will produce a good harvest in almost all regions of our country. She is less dependent on warm weather. Among the varieties that are recommended to be grown as standard currants: Chulkovskaya, Red Cross, Natalie.

Note! Among the white currant varieties that can be grown on a trunk, Primus and Dessertnaya. Imperial yellow is the best variety of golden currant that will grow well on a trunk.

Common Mistakes

It is easy to propagate standard currants. In mid-summer you need to cut the cuttings. He is immediately planted in an open garden bed. At ground level there should be 1 bud located at the very top. Before winter, the cuttings are covered with peat or leaves. In the spring months, all shoots are removed except one, which will become the trunk of the mini-tree.

Regardless of the variety, the formation of a currant trunk follows the same scenario.

Standard currants, especially black ones, are susceptible to freezing. If the winter has little snow, covering the bushes is necessary. The shelter is removed only after the end of spring frosts.

It is important to cover the bushes for the winter

Even if the bush has support, it is still recommended to plant the crop in a place where there are no strong winds.

A variety of stakes are used as support. They can be made of wood or metal.

To protect the plant from pests, you can plant marigold flowers, geraniums or garlic under the mini-tree. These crops have a pungent odor that keeps pests away from them.

You should not fertilize standard currants with large doses of nitrogen. She doesn't tolerate it well. 15-20 grams of urea, which is applied in the spring, is suitable.

Any summer resident can grow standard currants on the plot. If you follow all the rules and subtleties, you can make decorative mini-trees from ordinary bushes. They will decorate the garden and produce a high yield of sweet fruits.