About the hybrid of cherry and bird cherry (cerepadus): how to cross and graft

List of varieties

Due to their beneficial qualities, some varieties of cerapadus and especially padocerus hybrids deserve special attention.
Among cerapadus, experts note the following varieties:

Novella. Tree up to 3 m high with a well-developed root system. Self-pollinating variety, mid-early ripening. It has excellent resistance to coccomycosis and tolerates the most severe frosts well. The fruits are black and large.
Rusinka. The species has a bush-like form, the height of which can reach 2 m. Ripening later, self-pollinating, resistant to frost and diseases. The berries are small and black. The fruit tastes sweet and sour. They make jam with an original flavor.
In memory of Lewandowski. Bush cherry. Requires pollination (it is best to choose Turgenevka, Ashinskaya, Lyubskaya cherry trees as neighbors). Tolerates cold well and is resistant to coccomycosis infections. Productivity is rather average. The berries taste sweet and sour.

Novella

After we started crossing bird cherry and cherry, we got the best varieties of padocerus:

Padocerus-M. The hybrid is basic and laid the foundation for such varieties as Korona, Firebird, Aksamit, Kharitonovskaya. The latter, by the way, deserves special attention. The garden tree grows up to 2–3 m in height. Requires third-party pollinators (Zhukovskaya and Vladimirskaya are excellent). This cherry has fairly large dark red fruits with orange flesh. It produces a rich harvest due to its resistance to various types of diseases.
Firebird. By properly pruning, the plant can be shaped into a bush or tree. Dark coral berries are medium in size. The taste of the fruit is sweet with a tart aftertaste. Productivity is high, but resistance to cold is low. More suitable for southern regions.
Crown. It has a distinctive feature - its fruits are arranged in a group and have a pleasant taste with a slight sourness. Productivity is stable. The plant is often formed in the form of a bush. It is highly resistant to specific diseases.
Long awaited. A variety characterized by a powerful root system. The crown is rounded with moderate density. It is this species that has fruits that taste most like cherries. The color of the berries is dark cherry, the pulp is tender and juicy, the skin is dense. The stone is large and easily separated from the pulp.

Padocerus varieties

Hybrid varieties of Padocerus are not inferior to Cerapadus in varietal characteristics; many cultivars are even superior in taste. The most popular variety among gardeners is the Kharitonovsky variety, bred from the base hybrid Padocerus-M:

The variety grows in the form of a tree, reaching a height of up to 3.5 m.
Frost-resistant, tolerates temperatures down to -400 C.
Mid-season, not self-fertile, requires pollinators.
The fruits are bright red, the flesh is orange, the weight of the berries is up to 7 g, they grow solitary.

They are grown in the Voronezh, Tambov, Lipetsk regions, and in the Moscow region.

Firebird - padocerus grows in the form of a bush up to 2.5 m. The fruits are dark red, with the tartness of bird cherry, formed on a cluster. The average fruit size is up to 3.5 cm. The yield is high and resistant to infection. Frost resistance is average; the crop is not suitable for growing in temperate climates. Areas with warm climates are recommended.

Padocerus Corona is a young hybrid characterized by high productivity and frost resistance. The fruits are purple in color, located in a group on the cluster. The taste has a pronounced aroma of bird cherry and slight sourness. It grows in the form of a shrub, reaching a height of up to 2 m. The foliage is medium, the crown is loose. The plant does not get sick, it is not affected by pests. Regions of Central Russia are recommended for cultivation.

what can be grafted onto raspberries and bird cherry

Kolya Che

If the width of the main trunk is greater than the diameter of the cutting, then the same actions are performed, but in the main trunk, cuts are usually made along the lateral line. After adjusting the sections of the cuttings with the indentations on the main trunk, they are tightly connected to each other and tied.

ANNA ORLOVA

One type of popular grafting is spring grafting, produced using cuttings. Rootstocks for this method are harvested in the fall or in the first month of winter. Take cuttings at least 50 centimeters long. For this purpose, branches more than a year old are used. They can be stored, in addition to the methods described above, by snowing. This method involves tying the cuttings into tight bunches, wrapping them in plastic bags, and covering them with a layer of at least half a meter when snow falls. Such a snowdrift is covered with sawdust or peat. These storage facilities are placed on the north side of the house so that the snow does not melt for a sufficiently long time. The optimal air temperature is at least 2, but not more than 10 degrees below zero.

Olga

If the leaves on the rootstock, which is planned to be used as a graft, have already blossomed, then they are removed along with the petioles, and the grassy top is also disposed of.

Both young and adult plants can be used for grafting to renew them. Stone cherry is used as a scion and is suitable for other stone fruits such as cherries, plums or more cultivated cherry varieties. The following methods are used for this:

Propagation of bird cherry by cuttings
Bird cherry propagation
Bird cherry cuttings
Bird cherry reproduction
Bird cherry planting care
What is grafted onto bird cherry?
What can be grafted onto bird cherry
Graft a cherry tree
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What to plant felt cherry on
How to graft willow on a trunk
Bird cherry cuttings

Benefit

The advantage of cerapadus is not only its physical qualities, which make it possible to obtain decent yields of tasty berries in difficult climatic conditions, but also the beneficial properties of the fruit. A berry decoction of such plants can have an antipyretic effect. Due to the rich chemical composition, regular consumption of berries replenishes the deficiency of vitamins and minerals in the body.

The appearance of cerapadus made it possible to combine the qualities of bird cherry and cherry. Since ancient times, the fruits of the former have been used to treat gastric diseases, eye and pulmonary pathologies, and rheumatism. Thanks to the large amount of phytoncides, bird cherry was used to fight microbes, and cherries were used to cleanse and rejuvenate the body. Cerapadus fruits can be used to make juices, compotes, and fruit drinks.

Berries are frozen for long-term storage, but their beneficial properties are slightly reduced.

Agricultural technology

There are no big problems with planting and caring for the tree - it is quite unpretentious. However, some nuances still exist - we will consider them below.

You will be interested to learn about cherry propagation methods.

Selecting a location

The place for planting the seedling is chosen to be open, sunny and on soil with neutral acidity. Here the new plant will take root well and begin to grow. It is undesirable to have fences nearby so that air flows are not obstructed. The occurrence of groundwater should not be higher than one meter from the surface, so that the bulk of the roots are not subject to constant moisture.

Landing

The landing order is as follows:

2-3 weeks before autumn planting, in the chosen place you need to dig a hole 70 cm deep and the same diameter (for spring planting, the hole is made in the fall).
The pit is watered, 1-2 buckets of organic fertilizers (manure, bird droppings) are added there.
The seedling is placed with its roots in clean water 10 hours before planting.
The plant is planted in the morning or evening, while the roots are straightened and the trunk is installed in a vertical direction.
A previously dug clod of earth is sprinkled onto the roots of the plant and compacted a little with garden tools.
After this, the seedling is watered with a bucket of water.

When preparing holes, it is taken into account that there should be about three meters between plants. To plant a garden, this distance should be maintained both along the bed and between the rows.

Important! You need to ensure that the root collar of the trunk protrudes 2–3 cm above the soil: this will allow the plant to take root better.

Watering, fertilizing

It is necessary to water the plant when the circle of soil around the standard dries out to a depth of 2–3 cm. In this case, abundant watering is carried out, and after the soil has completely absorbed and dried out, this place can be loosened.

The plant in question is unpretentious and does not require a special feeding regime. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied 2-3 years after planting: during this time, the fertilizer is absorbed and washed out of the planting hole.

We advise you to learn about the features and methods of feeding cherries.

Weeding around the trunk helps the tree's roots receive more nutrition from the ground, so it is necessary to remove all excess plants around the crop once every two weeks.

Pruning and crown formation

Depending on the variety, cerapadus forms as a standard tree or a bush in the form of a wild bush cherry. Usually, a few of the most powerful shoots (3-4) are left, and the rest are shortened to a length of 70–80 cm. When stamping, a trunk of about 60 cm and a conical crown of 2-3 tiers are made.

This is a rather complicated operation, so most summer residents let growth take its course. But with quality care, the tree will reward you not only with its excellent appearance, but also with a good harvest.

Did you know? Cerapadus and the apple tree growing nearby are not competitors. Root secretions from root suckers help these two plants in terms of growth and health.

Crown formation is an important process, but sanitary tree pruning is much more important. In early spring, while the sap in the branches is dormant, diseased, broken branches growing inside the crown or bush are removed. This is done with sharp pruning shears, and the branches are taken outside the garden and burned.

Disease and pest control

Pests avoid the described plant, since it is a hybrid. Sometimes you come across some insects that quickly realize that this tree is not to their liking and leave.

But to avoid such attacks, you can carry out prevention by spraying the plant in April with Bordeaux mixture in a ratio of 1% to water. During the growing season, you can treat the crown and the ground underneath it with preparations such as “Actofit”, “Planriz” and the like.

Reproduction of a hybrid of bird cherry and cherry

The propagation of the hybrid is carried out in the same way as with an ordinary cherry - the trunk shoots are taken from a profusely flowering and fruit-bearing tree. They are dug up, rooted in a new place and subject to high-quality care. The new seedling is placed in the soil and watered. You can apply fertilizer in advance, but this is not necessary.

Learn how to grow cherries from cuttings.

A hybrid of bird cherry and cherry is an extremely interesting crop invented by man. Its fruits can have a very different taste - from sour bird cherry to sugary cherry.

Caring for Cerapadus and Padocerus

Cerapadus, like cherry, is not demanding of care. Agricultural technology consists of destroying weeds in tree trunk circles. If the plant develops normally, fertilizing is carried out in the spring after 2-3 years or according to the condition of the plant. It is necessary to systematically destroy root growth. Interestingly, cerapadus and apple trees do not compete for feeding area. On the contrary, the proximity of the cerapadus protects the apple trees from pests, and the root secretions of the root shoots promote healthier growth and better development.

Cerapadus, an unpretentious crop, requires sanitary and formative pruning. Formative pruning includes the formation of a trunk and crown, and sanitary pruning involves pruning dry, diseased, crooked and old branches that thicken the crown or the above-ground part of the bush (in the bush form). The tree trunk is formed with a height of 50-60 cm, and the crown is 2-3 tier, leaving 3-4 side shoots (first-order skeletal branches) in each tier.

Before the buds open, the crop is sprayed, like other fruit trees, with 2% Bordeaux mixture. During the growing season, if necessary, the crown and soil under the crown are treated against pests and diseases with biological preparations Planriz, Alirin-B, Boverin, Aktofit, etc. Cerapadus and Padocerus do not need additional treatments against fungal diseases.

The crop has a short growing season, so the crop has time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The fruits are tastier when processed; some varieties have a good attractive taste when eaten fresh (Vstrecha, Dolgozhdannaya, Kharitonovskaya, Novella).

Cerapadus and padocerus are characterized by rapid growth and are used in summer cottages in the form of a living decorative hedge. During flowering, the bushes attract bees and bumblebees and serve as an attractive decoration in the early spring area.

What will we cross the cherry with?

Now we need to decide why we will vaccinate cherries? In order to ensure the purity of experience, it is important to know that in nature there is also kinship, which is important to observe when crossing. Again, like with people - take half from a kind of tribe

So, the following are allowed:

intraspecific crossings (for varietal species – wild cherry);
interspecific (cherry to sweet cherry);
intergeneric vaccinations (cherries on plums).

Let's consider the last option. Plum is considered the most suitable rootstock among the stone fruit family. If you decide to graft it onto a cherry, then it is better to take a semi-wild plum; it adapts well and has a high resistance to disease. We're talking about finding a new home for the cherry tree. Here, low-growing trees with bluish fruits are the best option. In addition, the result will look unusual.

The most common crossbreeding option, a favorite among gardeners, is the grafting of several varieties of cherries onto one cherry tree. Interestingly, the fruits will ripen at a time characteristic of the specific type of grafted plant. This means that you can harvest cherries from one bush several times a season. In addition, you do not have to worry about pollination; among the scion there is a pollinating variety.

Breeders are desperate people. Thanks to them, a hybrid of cherry and bird cherry - cerapadus - appeared in nature. Now several varieties have already been bred, and, I must say, they are quite popular. There is nothing surprising about grafting cherries onto bird cherry trees. Both of these plants are stone fruits. Bird cherry is considered a fairly strong rootstock. The fruits of the hybrid have clusters similar to the parent ones, and the fruits are closer to cherries both in size and color. In the video you can see how unusual this crop looks. There is no arguing about taste, but most likely it is unlikely to appeal to most of you. This selection has another task - to develop more winter-hardy and strong cherry rootstocks.

There are also interesting options for grafting, which will especially appeal to those who want to grow dwarf trees. This will be the result if you choose the following combinations: apple tree (rootstock) + chokeberry, pear (rootstock) + shadberry, peach (rootstock) + almonds.

What can be grafted onto bird cherry?

Let's try to graft something onto the bird cherry tree

It's possible. But the outcome is not known. There are many nuances. Firstly, it may not grow together due to an elementary difference in the intensity of sap flow. But if it does grow together, then you should monitor the grafting site as a growth may begin to grow at the grafting site (a consequence of poor survival rate) and if this happens (and the desire to succeed has not faded), then you need to monitor and nurture such a tree until the first harvest ( if there is no thickening at the vaccination site, then everything is fine). First of all, eliminate the possibility of breakage (in the place of growth, in the place of grafting, the wood becomes brittle). If you wait for the harvest and you like the result (this is if the growth has appeared), then we immediately take the seeds and stratify them, after which, in the 2nd year of life, we graft a seedling grown from the seed of our hybrid onto it (either a cutting or a bud from our poorly established, fragile hybrid.) this will save in the above case with poor fusion of the rootstock and scion, but it requires patience on the one hand and makes it possible to surprise with a new, unusual hybrid on the other. Yes, but for Alex I would like to say - Not only the apple tree is grafted onto wild seedlings, and not only wild seedlings, but also onto seedlings (rootstocks) of other crops and cultivated rootstocks of specially bred crops for grafting scion of both the same crop and and rootstocks of other crops. The opinion that an Apple tree is grafted onto a seedling is a misconception!!.

Grafting anything on anything does not produce anything interesting: the tales of Stalin’s times about “vegetative hybridization,” which allegedly allowed Michurin to obtain his wonderful new varieties, are nonsense. (When they explained this to us in botany, I couldn’t understand, but I was embarrassed to ask: how can the resulting variety be replicated? After all, an apple tree is always grafted onto a wild seedling, and the same vegetative hybridization will certainly destroy the new variety!). That’s why none of the varieties supposedly obtained by Michurin actually exist. In the absence of real results, he began to pass off the Latin American fruit plant chokeberry as a supposedly obtained hybrid of rowan and cherry - in Russia and nowhere else today it is called “chokeberry.” The tying should be as tight as it can be done. The better the cutting is fixed, the greater the chance of its survival. All parts of the cuts that are open are coated with garden varnish.

For the first time, they are tied with paper or cellophane so that the cuts do not become weathered and heal well. It is very important to observe the certain deadlines allotted for carrying out such work as grafting fruit trees. The success of the entire event depends on this

The start time for sap flow is usually early to mid-April, depending on how early spring is and when buds begin to form and swell. However, the average daily temperature is still low. However, depending on the weather, the vaccination period may be extended until May or June. The most important criterion in this case is how much the buds on the scion have blossomed, since they should only be in a dormant state. In this case, the tree on which it is planned to be grafted can be either dormant or in blossom. Thus, we determine the timing of cherry grafting from the beginning of April to the end of May.

For grafting, the most suitable trees are those grown from seed, called “wild trees”. They are most adapted to local climatic conditions and are frost-resistant enough to transfer these qualities to the varieties that will be grafted.

Cherry grafting in the spring using cuttings is carried out in April, when sap flow begins in the trees. At this time, the bark is easily detached from the tree, and therefore all methods are used that involve removing the bark from the main trunk and placing a graft under it. These processes must be completed before the buds break, otherwise the rootstocks will not take root well.

Eye behind the bark, pressed against the trunk.

Cherries can probably be found in almost every garden: they are unpretentious, frost-resistant, and produce a good harvest. But what if the entire small plot is planted with cherries, and you really want to grow some other fruit? There is a solution: use cherries as a rootstock for grafting. We will tell you what can be grafted onto cherries.

womanadvice.ru

History of hybrid breeding

Before the hybrid was bred by I.V. Michurin, it has not been found in the wild. This scientist decided to crossbreed bird cherry and cherry. Numerous attempts have been made to cross-pollinate different plant species, but a successful attempt was the crossing of the Japanese Maaka bird cherry and the Ideal steppe cherry.

In this case, two types of hybrids were obtained:

Bird cherry pollen was transferred to the cherry pistil. The resulting hybrid was named Cerapadus.
The variety obtained when cherry pollen gets on the pistil of a bird cherry flower is called Padocerus.

The names chosen are related to the Latin names for bird cherry and cherry: Padus and Cerasus.

However, when creating hybrids at first, the new variety did not inherit all the important properties of its parents. It gained resistance to winter cold, a strong root system, and resistance to some diseases. However, the taste was not good enough. The berry harvest was large, but the fruits themselves were too small.

Later, from the first varieties of cerapadus, those that combined good taste, high yield, strong root system, winter hardiness and other advantages were obtained.

Agricultural technology

There are no big problems with planting and caring for the tree - it is quite unpretentious. However, some nuances still exist - we will consider them below.

Selecting a location

Landing

The landing order is as follows:

2-3 weeks before autumn planting, in the chosen place you need to dig a hole 70 cm deep and the same diameter (for spring planting, the hole is made in the fall).
The pit is watered, 1-2 buckets of organic fertilizers (manure, bird droppings) are added there.
The seedling is placed with its roots in clean water 10 hours before planting.
The plant is planted in the morning or evening, while the roots are straightened and the trunk is installed in a vertical direction.
A previously dug clod of earth is sprinkled onto the roots of the plant and compacted a little with garden tools.
After this, the seedling is watered with a bucket of water.

When preparing holes, it is taken into account that there should be about three meters between plants. To plant a garden, this distance should be maintained both along the bed and between the rows.

Watering, fertilizing

Weeding around the trunk helps the tree's roots receive more nutrition from the ground, so it is necessary to remove all excess plants around the crop once every two weeks.

Pruning and crown formation

Disease and pest control

Pests avoid the described plant, since it is a hybrid. Sometimes you come across some insects that quickly realize that this tree is not to their liking and leave.

Reproduction of a hybrid of bird cherry and cherry

A hybrid of bird cherry and cherry is an extremely interesting crop invented by man. Its fruits can have a very different taste - from sour bird cherry to sugary cherry.

https://www.botanichka.ru/article/tserapadus-i-padotserus-gibridyi-cheremuhi-i-vishni/https://fb.ru/article/268757/kak-nazyivaetsya-gibrid-vishni-i-cheremuhihttps: //dachamechty.ru/vishnya/i-cheremuhi-gibrid.htmlhttps://fermer.blog/bok/sad/plodovye-derevya/vishnya/8634-gibrid-cheremuhi-i-vishni.html

Planting and care

Planting of any hybrid of cherry and bird cherry takes place according to the rules standard for the vast majority of fruit trees and berry bushes. Agricultural technology also does not include any specific activities.

Landing dates

Cherry and bird cherry hybrids are planted in open ground in both spring and autumn. Gardeners in the southern regions traditionally practice the second option; in central Russia and in areas with a more severe climate they prefer the first.

In the south, they take into account the very likely summer heat and drought - this necessitates the need to constantly monitor soil moisture. And in a temperate climate, sudden frosts already in mid-autumn are by no means uncommon. A hybrid of cherry and bird cherry planted at this time simply will not have time to adapt to the new living conditions and will inevitably die in the winter.

When determining a specific period, they are guided by the characteristics of the local climate and are guided by the long-term weather forecast. In the spring, wait until the likelihood of return frosts is minimized. In autumn, cherry and bird cherry hybrids are planted at least a month before the first frost.

In central Russia this is the second half of May and the first two decades of September. If the personal plot is located to the south or north, planting cherry and bird cherry hybrids begins 10-20 days earlier in the spring and about the same amount later in the fall.

Growing conditions

The hybrid of cherry and bird cherry is able to adapt to a wide range of climatic and weather conditions. But if the gardener finds out in advance what is the ideal planting site for Cerapadus and Padocerus, the plant will “reward” him with abundant harvests.

What cherry and bird cherry hybrids need:

open space, adult cerapadus and padocerus trees do not suffer from direct sunlight;
the presence of protection from sharp gusts of wind and cold drafts;
high- or medium-nutrient soil (chernozem, sierozem, loam);
neutral acid-base balance of the substrate.

In the shade, cerapadus and padocerus will not die, but they will not bear fruit abundantly.
The level of groundwater, air and water permeability of the soil for cherry and bird cherry hybrids are not important. A powerful and developed root system provides cerapadus and padocerus with everything they need, and it rarely rots.

Important! The most suitable neighbor for a hybrid of cherry and bird cherry is an apple tree. Practice shows that cerapadus and padocerus repel many pests from it.

How to plant correctly

Planting a hybrid of cherry and bird cherry into the ground is preceded by preparing the planting hole. If the procedure is planned for spring, this is done in the fall. For autumn planting of cerapadus and padocerus, a hole is dug in about 2-3 weeks. Approximate dimensions – 60 cm in depth and diameter.

It is advisable to add any drainage to the bottom with a layer of 5-7 cm. On top of it is approximately 15 cm of fertile turf, mixed with 10-12 liters of humus and fertilizers (100-120 g). When planting a hybrid of cherries and bird cherry in the fall, only phosphorus and potassium are added; in the spring, nitrogen is also required.

The procedure itself is not difficult even for an inexperienced gardener:

Moisten the soil mixture well at the bottom of the planting hole. Loosen the substrate, allowing the water to be absorbed. Collect it into some kind of mound.
If the seedling of a hybrid of bird cherry and cherry has a closed root system, make a depression on the top of this mound, the dimensions approximately corresponding to the volume of the soil clod in the container. Stick a support for the seedling into the ground.
Inspect the roots of plants with an open root system. Trim off all areas of dead, dried, rotten tissue. Soak the roots for 2-3 hours in water with the addition of a biostimulator.
Remove the seedling of the hybrid cherry and bird cherry from the pot (it will be easier if you water the plant well first), maintaining the integrity of the soil ball. Place it in the recess at the top of the mound. For specimens with “bare” roots, you just need to carefully let them down its slopes.
Gradually fill the hole with substrate. It is taken in small portions, in the process the soil is compacted with your hands and the seedling is gently shaken, holding it by the trunk. Such operations prevent the formation of air pockets.
Having reached the edges of the hole, compact the soil again. Check the position of the root collar - a hybrid of cherry and bird cherry is planted correctly if it is located 4-5 cm above the soil level.
Water the plant well and tie it to a support. After the water is completely absorbed, cover the soil in the tree trunk circle with mulch.

After planting, the root system of cerapadus and padocerus actively grows both in depth and in breadth.
Important! When planting several cherry and bird cherry hybrids at the same time, a minimum of 3 m is left between neighboring plants with a row spacing of 3.5-4 m.

Aftercare

Caring for cherry and bird cherry hybrids will require minimal time and effort from the gardener:

Watering. Most often, trees survive on natural precipitation. In the absence of rain, plants are watered once every 25-30 days, using 35-40 liters of water.
Fertilizer application. In fertile soil (especially if the planting hole is properly prepared), cherry and bird cherry hybrids do not need them. If the substrate is “poor,” once every 2-3 years, at the beginning and end of the active growing season, mineral fertilizers are applied: first nitrogen, and then phosphorus and potassium.
Trimming. If the hybrid of cherry and bird cherry is a tree, a sparsely tiered crown is created for it. Bush varieties are formed, leaving a maximum of 10-12 shoots older than five years. Also, twice a year (at the beginning and at the end of the active growing season), cherry and bird cherry hybrids require sanitary pruning.

The formation of a sparsely layered crown takes 4-5 years.
Cerapadus and padocerus overwinter without shelter. For many varieties, even -40 °C is not a critical minimum; they tolerate such frosts without damage.

Important! In the first winter after planting a hybrid of cherries and bird cherry, it is still recommended to protect the root system by mulching the tree trunk circle with a thick (12-15 cm) layer of peat or humus.

Description and characteristics

The hybrid variety obtained by crossing bird cherry and cherry is usually called cerapadus. The name was obtained by adding the Latin names of the plant's progenitors. The pioneer of breeding plants was Michurin I.V., and as a result of numerous experiments, modern varieties acquired the qualities of winter hardiness of bird cherry.

The peculiarity of cerapadus fruits is that the leaf blades resemble the shape of cherry leaves, and the berries are a hybrid in appearance and taste. The first type of unusual plant bred was distinguished by the sugar content of the berries and the unusual, almost black color of the fruits.

Modern varieties have a dense crown and are characterized by a decent size of green mass.

The advantages of cerapadus were the following:

high frost resistance;
well developed root system;
high productivity;
large berry shape;
decent external and taste quality of berries;
resistance to diseases, especially coccomycosis.

Today the list of cerapaduses is quite wide. Some varieties form racemose inflorescences, which allows for high yield.

Cerapadus varieties

The photo shows hybrids of cherries and sweet cherries, where the parent tree is a cherry tree.

The most famous and widespread are Cerapadus Novella:

tree height – up to 3 m, crown branched, intensively leafy;
not affected by coccomycosis;
has a well-developed root system;
frost-resistant;
large berries - up to 5 g, black with a glossy surface, grow singly or in 2 pieces;
The plant is self-fertilizing and does not require pollinators.

The Novella variety is grown in the central region of the Black Earth Region, in the Kursk and Lipetsk regions.

In memory of Levandovsky - grows in the form of a bush up to 1.8 m high. The berries are large, bittersweet, with a pronounced taste of bird cherry. The variety is not self-fertilizing; the proximity of pollinating cherry varieties Subbotinskaya or Lyubskaya is required. The crop is frost-resistant and tolerates high temperatures well. Productivity is average, depending on the quality of pollination; weather conditions do not affect fruiting. The variety is new, taken for cultivation in the northern regions.

Cerapadus Rusinka is a special variety for the Moscow region. A bushy plant up to 2 m tall, with a strong crown and powerful roots. Mid-early fruiting. Productivity is high due to self-pollination of the hybrid. The berries are medium in size, black, very aromatic. Bittersweet with burgundy pulp. The bone separates well. This hybrid is often grown commercially to produce cherry juice.

Growing bird cherry

Planting and propagation

Bird cherry is propagated by seeds, shoots, layering and cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, they are cut in the spring at the time of sap flow and planted for rooting.

Bird cherry is propagated by sowing seeds in August–September (the properties of the mother plant are not preserved). If you did not have time to sow in the fall, then the seeds are stratified for 4 months, and in some species up to 7-8 months (common bird cherry, Maaka bird cherry, late bird cherry). They are buried in clean, damp sand poured into a container and placed in a cool place. And when the seeds begin to hatch, the container is immersed in snow. Usually, under the crowns of fruit-bearing plants, as a result of self-seeding, many seedlings are formed, which can be planted in a permanent place at the age of two.

Bird cherry seedlings take root well both in autumn and spring. The hole for the seedling should be of such a size that the roots can freely fit in it. Apply mineral fertilizers according to the usual scheme indicated on the package, and organic fertilizers, but do not overdo it with the latter. Their excess and high soil moisture can lead to darkening of the wood and drying out of individual branches. Water the plants generously during planting and then 2-3 times during the growing season. In the future, it is better to water only during drought. Mulch the soil with sawdust, humus or cover with film. When planting, it is necessary to take into account the height of the plants, their dense crown, which provides a lot of shade. Since most varieties are cross-pollinators, it is better to plant several varieties on the site. In this case, ordinary bird cherry is planted at a distance of 4–6 m from each other, and Virginia bird cherry – at a distance of 3–4 m.

When planting, prune the plants at a height of 60 cm so that they lay low on the first skeletal branches. Next year, cut off the leader shoot at a height of 50-60 cm from the first tier of skeletal branches - then the second tier will form, etc.

Bird cherry (Prunus maackii). Wouter Hagens

Bird cherry care

Although bird cherry is unpretentious, it grows and develops better in well-lit areas with nutritious, moderately moist soil. Mature trees provide a lot of shade - this must be taken into account when creating compositions.

For abundant fruiting, it is better to plant at least two plants of different varieties, but blooming at the same time: the self-fertility of bird cherry leaves much to be desired, cross-pollination is desirable and even necessary.

Maaka and syori bird cherry trees, accustomed to the humid Far Eastern climate, do not tolerate excessive dry soil - they should be watered abundantly as needed, avoiding compaction and drying out of the soil around the trunk.

Caring for bird cherry consists of digging and loosening the soil, applying root and foliar fertilizers, removing weeds, formative and sanitary pruning.

Plants can be formed either on a high trunk or in the form of a multi-stemmed shrub. To establish a low first tier of skeletal branches, the seedling is cut at a height of 60–70 cm. Of the emerging side shoots, 3–4 of the most developed ones are left, evenly oriented in space. In subsequent years, tiers of the second and third orders are formed.

Aftercare for hybrids

Cerapadus, like bird cherry and bird cherry, does not require special agricultural technology; the plant is unpretentious, especially as an adult. The soil near the young seedlings is loosened and weeds are removed if necessary. The hybrid produces dense root growth and needs to be pruned. Irrigation of cerapadus is not necessary; seasonal rains are sufficient; in times of drought, a young tree needs intensive root watering once every 30 days. The seedling is fertilized when planting; subsequent feeding is not required.

A mandatory procedure is to treat the hybrid before sap treatment in the spring with Bordeaux mixture, and to bleach the trunk in the fall and spring. The hybrid practically does not get sick, and insects do not affect it. For prevention or when problems are detected, fruit crops are treated with the organic product “Actofit”. No additional measures are required for the hybrid.

Advice! Bush-like cerapaduses and padoceras have a decorative appearance during flowering and fruiting; hybrids are often used to create hedges.

The culture is formed after 3 years of growth. The tree trunk is formed up to 60 cm in height, the skeletal branches are left in 3 tiers. The lower tier of the branch is longer, the later ones are shorter than the previous ones. Formation occurs in early spring before sap flow or in autumn, when the tree is dormant. In spring, old and dry branches are cut off. Thin the crown, cut off the root shoots. By autumn, no preparatory measures are required, only the root of the seedling is covered with a layer of dry leaves or sawdust. The shelter has nothing to do with the mature tree.

Features of Cerapadus and Padocerus

Persistent continuation of breeding work contributed to the production of the first hybrid variety Cerapadus sweet (a hybrid with the Ideal cherry variety). The new varietal hybrid has inherited the maternal qualities of the fruit: sweet, sugary fruits with a decorative appearance - black, large and shiny. A powerful root system with high resistance to winter frosts was inherited from the Maak bird cherry/cherry.

Cerapadus has become an excellent rootstock for heat-loving cherries and sweet cherries. The culture acquired high frost resistance and was promoted to colder regions beyond central Russia. The external characteristics of the breed also changed: the crown of the cerapadus became dense due to good foliage, a round, tightly compressed shape.

Created on the basis of the first cerapadus hybrids, the cultivars (varieties) have high winter hardiness, resistance to diseases (especially coccomycosis, which is widespread among cherries), large-fruited, and high yields. Later, cherry-cherry varieties were obtained that form a racemose inflorescence, rather than 1-2 fruitlets. All cultivars and hybrids of cerapadus and padocerus are included in the “Cherry” section in the state register.

The best varieties

Hybrids of cherries and bird cherry today include a large number of varieties. The distinctive quality of any of them is their high ability to tolerate low temperatures, which is why they are grown in regions with cold climates.

Cerapadus and padocerus - hybrids of bird cherry and cherry

Cerapadus never existed in the wild. These plants appeared thanks to I.V. Michurin, who used steppe cherry (Ideal variety) (Prunus fruticosa) and Japanese bird cherry (Prunus maackii) to create hybrids. Only it gave positive results when cross-pollinating two plant species. Cross-pollination with bird cherry did not produce positive results. During cross-pollination, bird cherry pollen was applied to the stigma of a cherry pistil and, conversely, cherry pollen was applied to the pistil of a bird cherry. The positive result of cross-pollination contributed to the creation of a new type of stone fruit, which was named in the first case, when the mother plant was cherry, Cerapadus. The new stone fruit plant got its name from adding the first syllables of the Latin names for cherry (Cerasus) and bird cherry (Padus), that is, a cherry-bird cherry hybrid or cerapadus was obtained. In the case where the mother plant is Maaka bird cherry, the plants are called bird cherry, or padocerus.

History of Cerapadus and Padocerus
Features of Cerapadus and Padocerus
Hybrid varieties of cerapadus
Hybrid varieties of padocerus
Growing Cerapadus and Padocerus
Caring for Cerapadus and Padocerus

Growing Cerapadus and Padocerus

Cerapadus and padocerus are still not very common in gardens as fruit crops. Not all gardeners like the taste of bird cherry in the pulp of the fruit. More often they are used as rootstocks for cherries, cherries, and plums.

Planting seedlings

Cerapadus seedlings should only be purchased at specialized sales points or directly at the nursery. Then you can be sure that you were sold the desired fruit crop and not a fake.

Cerapadus can be planted in early autumn or spring in April. The seedlings are quite frost-resistant and, when planted in autumn, will have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.

For planting cerapadus and padocerus, you can use any neutral soil with average fertility. The area should be sufficiently illuminated, without shading or drafts.

Planting holes for spring planting are prepared in the fall, and for spring planting - 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings. To get a high annual yield, it is necessary to plant 2-3 seedlings, even if the variety is self-fertile. Sometimes, depending on weather conditions or the properties of the variety, partial self-fertility begins to predominate. As a result, many barren flowers appear during flowering, and the yield is noticeably reduced. During the first 2 years, the growth of cerapadus and padocerus seedlings may be slow, but then the plant makes up for lost time with rapid growth and the formation of root shoots, which can extend 2-3 meters away from the main plant.

Standard planting holes are prepared in advance, which are adjusted to the volume of the seedling’s root system before planting the crop. As a rule, Cerapadus and Padocerus seedlings have a powerful root system. The distance between plants in a row is 2.5-3.0 meters and between rows - up to 3.0-3.5 m.

Before planting, the cerapadus seedling is immersed in clean water or root solution for several hours. Prepare the soil mixture: 2 buckets of humus are mixed with 1 bucket of soil, add 100 g of potassium and phosphorus fertilizer or (which is simpler) 1 glass of nitrophoska. Mix well and pour into a tubercle-shaped hole. The root system of the seedling is straightened along the tubercle, half of the hole is sprinkled with soil, lightly compacted, and a bucket of warm (heated) water is poured out. After absorption, close the hole completely, add another 2-3 buckets of heated water and after it has been absorbed, generously mulch with fine mulch, possibly peat, sawdust (not pine), shavings, etc.

Cerapadus seedlings can be grown as a stand-alone crop, used as a high-quality rootstock, or used as a skeletonizer for multiple grafts on a single rootstock.

Ripe cerapadus fruits

Features and timing of planting hybrids

When planting crops, the same rules and planting patterns for fruit trees are followed - in autumn or spring. The choice of season will depend entirely on the preferences of the gardener, although, to some extent, on the specific climate - if the winter is very harsh, the more arguments in favor of spring planting.

As for the recommended timing, in spring work occurs approximately in mid-April (before buds open), and autumn planting of cerapadus is calculated taking into account an interval of 2-3 weeks before persistent frosts (so that the seedlings have time to take root normally).

Moreover, it can be planted on any soil with a neutral reaction and average fertility. It is better to choose a sufficiently lit place, although some shading is also possible.

Attention! A plant planted in the shade may be at risk of excessive stretching to the detriment of yield.

Preparatory stage

We recommend purchasing seedlings from specialized nurseries. Before planting, it is better to soak them in water (you can add Kornevin, Epin or any growth stimulant) if there are signs of drying out.

It is recommended to add a bucket of compost per square meter to a spacious planting hole. and a glass of nitrophoska if the soil is poor. Acidic soil can be deoxidized with lime.

Grafting methods

Tree budding is the only method used in August. Cherry propagation occurs by introducing an eye with a bud into a cut under the bark. The junction is well bandaged and left for the winter. Applicable only to areas where frost does not occur. Effective for breeding new varieties of cherries.

The “butt with tongue” method for grafting cherries is used in cases where the diameters of the rootstock and scion do not match (if the rootstock is thicker). They are connected at the same angle and bandaged. The bandage is removed after complete healing. When crossing “for the bark” the opposite is true. If the seedlings (scion) are thicker than the diameter of the main plant, then the bark is cut about 3 cm and the graft is inserted into the cut site and tied.

Improved copulation - the method is very popular when the scion and rootstock are well matched and have the same thickness. They cut them a little, put them next to each other and again tie them well. The “splitting” method is used if the seedling has small shoots, but their diameter is larger than the rootstock. In this case, the lower part of the cutting is cut in the form of a sharp wedge, about 10 cm is cut in the middle of the rootstock and a cherry seedling is introduced, after which it is tightly tied. It’s hard to imagine all this just by reading the text, so we also took care of the video materials, take the time to watch.

Despite the variety of vaccination options, there are general rules that will help achieve results. Experts in the field of fruit plant breeding recommend giving priority to the rootstock. He must be healthy and strong. For example, if you like a wild bush, move it to your garden. Do not touch it for 2-3 years, let it take root well. Only then will he become a good donor. The same recommendations will apply if the tree in the garden that you are considering for grafting does not grow where you want. Replant it and give it at least 1 year to take root!