How to pollinate cucumbers at home correctly - tips and recommendations for growing and selecting varieties (90 photos + video)

Artificial pollination of cucumbers at home: how to get a rich harvest

The home harvest of one of the most popular garden crops, cucumber, depends on many factors, including high-quality pollination. Bee-pollinated varieties are assisted by insects; self-pollinating plants do not need any help. However, there are conditions in which there is no hope for bees. In these cases, the plants must be pollinated by hand.

What is pollination

Pollination is necessary for representatives of the flora that produce both female and male flowers. Cucumber is one of these plants. Pollination is the process of transferring pollen from the stamens of male flowers to the stigma of the female pistil, resulting in the formation of a fruit.

Pollination is necessary for fruit to form.

In nature, the role of pollinators is played by birds, insects, wind, and water. However, in gardening, sometimes there are cases when you have to resort to an artificial process. For example, when growing cucumbers in an enclosed space (in a greenhouse, on a balcony or windowsill). There is no question of the help of bees and wind in such conditions. Another reason is the desire to get pure varietal fruits and seeds. If several varieties of cucumbers are cultivated in a limited space, then you need to take control of the pollination process.

One of the most famous pollinators is the bee.

Female and male type of flowering of cucumbers: what is it, how to distinguish

For the pollination process to be successful, you need to know several nuances.

When flowering, a cucumber plant produces male and female flowers. They have pronounced differences, and it is difficult to confuse them.

Male flowers are located closer to the base of the stem. As a rule, they form inflorescence groups of 5–7 pieces. These flowers are often called barren flowers.

Male flowers are arranged in clusters near the base of the stem

Female flowers are formed on the side shoots. They are single, at the base there is a seal similar to a small cucumber.

The female flower is single and has a condensation at the base

How to pollinate cucumbers at home

Pollination is best done in the morning, before lunch.

1. Unopened buds should presumably be isolated a day before blooming - cover the flower with gauze or a paper cap. This must be done so that random insects do not interfere with the process. There should be 2 times more male flowers participating in the procedure than female ones.

For plants with larger flowers, such as melons, a clothespin is used to isolate the flower.

The corolla of the male flower is torn off and the pistil of the female flower is touched.

A brush collects pollen from male flowers and transfers it to female flowers.

Tips for getting good results

• the best time for pollination is on the second day after the flower opens;
• humidity should be about 70% (at a low level the pollen dries out, at a high level it becomes heavy and sticky);
• temperature also matters. At 27 o C and above, pollen loses activity. A temperature of 10–15 o C inhibits the development of ovaries. Optimal indicators are 20–25 o C;
• for the beauty of the fruit and to preserve the purity of the variety, it is recommended to take pollen from one bush and transfer it to another;
• You shouldn’t stop at just pollination. You need to continue the procedure daily for a week.

Which varieties require pollination?

There are parthenocarpic hybrids - species that form fruits without pollination. True, they have no seeds.

In self-pollinating cucumbers, both the pistil and stamens are found in the same flower. They do not need artificial pollination. Such varieties are the most productive, since almost all flowers can bear fruit.

Bee-pollinated cucumbers are pollinated by bees. If there are no insects, then there will be no ovaries. Their peculiarity is that there are an order of magnitude more male flowers than female ones. It is these varieties that need help with pollination. Such cucumbers are considered more useful.

Photo gallery: variety of cucumber varieties

What to do with barren flowers

The abundance of barren flowers on cucumber bushes indicates improper agricultural practices. It is possible that fresh (from last year’s harvest) unheated seeds were planted. Thickened crops and lack of light also contribute to the appearance of many male flowers.

The abundance of barren flowers indicates incorrect agricultural practices

To stimulate the formation of female flowers, you need to pinch the top. It’s better over 5-6 sheets, but higher is possible. This stimulates the growth of side shoots, which become the habitat of female flowers.

Artificial pollination of cucumbers is a completely simple procedure. Knowing how to do this correctly, you can get a big harvest. In addition, manual pollination will allow you to collect pure varietal seeds.

Pollination by flower

Simple hand pollination of cucumbers is carried out in the morning. The principle of pollination is to pick off male flowers and attach them to female ones.

1. For this purpose, the buds that have not yet blossomed are isolated a day before opening, covered with gauze or a paper cap. This is done so that insects that accidentally enter the room cannot interfere with the future process. To collect pollen from male inflorescences, you will need 2 times more pollen than from female flowers.

The male flower opens for a day and subsequently withers, while the female flower can be pollinated within 2 days.

2. A day later, the protective covering is removed from the inflorescences and the male barren flowers are torn off, from which the petals located near the corolla are torn off. It is the corolla with pollen on the anther and stamens that lightly touches the pistil of the female inflorescence.

When not all seeds are pollinated and there is not enough pollen, the incompletely pollinated primordium of the female flower withers and falls off.

3. If there is a sufficient number of male barren flowers, the corollas are left for some time directly in the female flower. In order not to get confused which inflorescences have already been pollinated, it is recommended to mark them, for example, using a simple thread.

Self-pollinating varieties

Many summer residents do not like to grow cucumbers of self-pollinating species. This is due to the fact that they have a taste uncharacteristic for the crop, light stress can reduce the yield of the bush, and the plants are dependent on changes in external growing conditions.

But despite this, pollinating the plants yourself is quite labor-intensive, so gardeners buy hybrid varieties. Most often this is:

• Zozulya.
• Emelya.
• Hermann.
• Millionaire.
• Summer resident.
• Dynamite.

Experienced gardeners advise using a specific planting scheme for cucumbers when growing in greenhouse conditions. The very first to be planted are early hybrids of self-pollinating varieties. The majority of crops in a greenhouse should be insect-pollinated plants. The last to be planted are mid-ripening cucumber species.

Growing cucumbers at home in this way will protect the summer resident from loss of harvest.

Why is pollination required?

All representatives of the flora need pollination. The formation of fruits occurs as a result of the interaction of pollen from male stamens with the stigma of female ones. Pollinators for cucumbers in the wild are insects (mainly bees), birds, and wind. Sometimes situations arise when artificial pollination is required. This is necessary, as a rule, when cultivating cucumber crops in a limited and enclosed space (in greenhouse conditions, a greenhouse, on an apartment balcony) or if you want to obtain clean planting material and varietal fruits.

Why is pollination required?

Subtleties of pollination

But the pollination process of varieties and hybrids can be completely different. Let's take a closer look at this process so that you never lose your cucumber harvest in the future.

How do you know what kind of pollination is needed?

To set fruit, self-pollinating varieties, as is already clear from their name, do not need pollen at all. Therefore, only female flowers grow on them, which supply themselves with everything they need:

It is not difficult to visually distinguish a parthenocapric plant from a bee-pollinated one: on the former, the fruit still has a fairly long remnant of the flower, but in bee-pollinated varieties it quickly falls off.

But there are bee-pollinated varieties so tender and rich in yield that it’s a pity to give them up. So is it still worth trying to lure striped workers into the greenhouse so as not to exchange them for another, less tasty variety?

How to attract pollinators?

It's even easier to attract pollinating insects to the greenhouse with fresh pieces of fish sprinkled with sweet water - just hang them under the roof.

Bumblebees can also be attracted for pollination; they also do their job well. To do this, pick flowering onions in the garden, tie them in small bunches and secure them on pegs in the greenhouse between the rows. Also - in front of the open door of the greenhouse and immediately behind it. In just a couple of hours the bumblebees will begin to fly in

Use honey water carefully for this purpose - ants may appear.

There are also special products on sale for attracting insects, foreign and domestic, with a wide range of effects. It is enough to spray the cucumber flowers with these sprays and open the transoms wide - that’s all.

How to deal with manual pollination of cucumbers?

If the ovaries turn yellow and fall off, it means they remain unfertilized. Of course, there will be no fruits in their place, no matter how sad it is. And all this is due to cold or damp weather, due to which pollinating insects did not reach your greenhouse. Don’t get lost: take an ordinary soft brush for painting (preferably made of natural bristles, or make one from the tip of a cat’s tail), and carefully pollinate the flowers yourself. Otherwise, you will simply lose half the harvest. It makes sense to try, doesn’t it?

Another manual method of pollination is to pick the petals from the male flowers and place them in the female:

You can also pollinate using a cotton swab. Just don’t expect that by hand you can achieve the same result as with natural pollination - not at all. But what if you can’t attract insects? Or does the greenhouse work in winter? Then this is the only way, or give preference to self-pollinating varieties.

There is one more subtlety. If the weather is cloudy during the flowering period, then female flowers will appear several days earlier than male ones. All this will lead to delayed fruit formation, and in some places the flowers may fall off. That’s why some people do this: having figured out where the female seeds are and where the male seeds are, they plant the male seeds in a separate corner of the greenhouse three to four days earlier. When they bloom, they curtain them with film so that the bees don’t take the pollen. If the weather is good, then the female ones will appear any day now, if it is cloudy, then both species will bloom at the same time, because the male seeds were planted earlier. Here's the trick.

Radical method: place a beehive in a greenhouse

If you have a large greenhouse and you grow cucumbers for sale, then solve the problem with pollination once and for all - install a beehive. It can be placed inside, or it can be attached to one of the walls.

Here are some tips on what to look for in this matter:

If you bought a hive with a family from a beekeeper, ask him to help bring and install it all in a new place. Bees are especially aggressive during transportation, and they do not like the stuffiness - after all, you will close the trays for a while

It is also important to secure the frames correctly to prevent insects from choking. Do all this in the evening, and preferably when it’s cool. Place the hive near the south wall of the greenhouse, and open the entrance to the northeast. In a couple of days, open three entrances: the front two for summer in the greenhouse, and the back one for the street, behind the other pollen. Provide salted water for the bees so that they do not collect it in other non-ecological places.

That's all! From the very first days, the bees hired will begin to carry pollen on greenhouse cucumbers. Believe me, no artificial pollination can replace their careful work.

Pollination rules

Time

The process of artificial pollination of cucumbers can be carried out almost at any time. The time for the procedure directly depends on the cucumber variety and on exactly when the seeds were planted in the soil. At the same time, every gardener knows that the faster you pollinate cucumber inflorescences at home or in a greenhouse, the sooner you can get fresh vegetables from the seedlings.

Before the pollination procedure, it is recommended to increase the humidity in the room where the seedlings are growing. This can be done by spraying water and a spray bottle, or by placing a container of water near containers with seedlings.

It is preferable to plan the pollination process of cucumbers at home and in the greenhouse not on the first day, when the first inflorescences bloom on the cucumber seedlings. It is recommended to pollinate flowers 20-24 hours after they open. The best time for this would be early morning or evening, especially cloudy weather when the bright sun does not shine through the window. If the weather outside the window is sunny, shade should be created in the room.

Temperature

When pollinating cucumber inflorescences, the ambient temperature is of no small importance. Compliance with the required thermal regime increases the chances of ovary formation, increasing the number of newly appeared inflorescences. The most optimal temperatures for pollination are considered to be between 24°C and 27°C.

It is recommended to pollinate the inflorescence at a humidity level of 70%. When the moisture level is below the recommended level, the pollen dries out. When humidity increases too much, the pollen becomes damp and clumps together.

Exceeding the required temperature threatens the pollen with the loss of fertilizing properties and, as a result, the loss of the future vegetable harvest. Lowering the thermal degree below the recommended value, although it preserves the pollination process itself, however, loses its qualitative characteristics: cucumbers grow small.

Top dressing

Feeding allows you to increase the efficiency of ovary formation at home if pollination is carried out correctly. For mineral nutrition of cucumber crops, it is necessary to select ready-made fertilizers, the components of which include phosphorus, potassium and urea. Urea is especially important for the development of hearths: it increases the number of cucumber ovaries.

At the same time, using fertilizing, you can not stop at harvesting the first harvest, but try to stimulate a new stage of flowering in plants. To do this, it is enough to lower the temperature by 7-10 points and add fertilizer complexes.

How to properly pollinate cucumbers at home

To grow a good harvest in a greenhouse, you must monitor how the plants are pollinated. For the convenience of many summer residents, there are self-pollinating cucumbers. They are called parthenocarpic. But most varieties are insect-pollinated. Therefore, you should help them with pollination. In the open ground, this is done by insects and the wind.

How to pollinate cucumbers in a greenhouse is a question that interests many summer residents, because the harvest depends on quality pollination.

There are several ways for pollination:

• Attracting insects.
• Hand pollination.

How to plant

Seeds are most often sprouted in pots or paper cups. To fill them, peat is added to sawdust in a ratio of 1:3 and mixed with vermicompost. The acidity level of the mass is desirable in the region of 6-6.5, and the depth of the holes is 2 cm. If you maintain the temperature at 24-25°C, seedlings will become noticeable after a week. They are not watered for a couple of days after their appearance. Growing full-fledged seedlings will take 25 days.

Paper and plastic containers are suitable for germinating seeds.

Soil prepared in autumn and spring:

• pour a hot solution of potassium permanganate, pink;
• Cover with film for 3 days;
• open and form a bed with holes arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The depth of each should be equal to the height of the glass with seedlings, and a little fertilizer is placed at the bottom.

Seedlings are placed not only in a regular bed, but also in a potato “pie”. The peel of the starchy vegetable is dried and ground, and before planting the cucumbers, it is soaked in plain water. The resulting mixture is poured into the hole, sprinkled with earth, and then the potato mixture is poured again. The shoots are planted in this “pie”.

Another reason for pale leaves is considered to be low soil temperature. Sometimes it is possible to correct the situation by watering with warm water with a small amount of potassium permanganate. To prevent the soil from cooling down during cold weather, it is recommended to warm up the air in the greenhouse.

Pale leaves on cucumbers

How to pollinate cucumbers at home

Manual pollination is a rather complex technique. The most suitable way is to collect pollen from one bush and treat the inflorescences on another with it. In the process, use a regular thin brush with soft bristles. It is desirable that it be made from natural fibers. How to pollinate cucumbers by hand yourself:

1. Find the male flower and use a brush to remove the pollen from it with gentle movements.
2. Transfer the material to the female flower, or rather to its pistil.
3. Cover the treated branch with cotton wool or other available means.
4. How to artificially process cucumbers in the second way:
5. Find the male inflorescence and carefully cut it off using sharp scissors.
6. Remove all petals with slow movements so as not to disturb the pollen material.
7. Place the remaining portion into the female flower.
8. Leave the structure until the ovary appears. Several male inflorescences can be used in the process.
9. The manual procedure is carried out 2-3 times a week. You can stop when the ovaries begin to grow.

What to do with barren flowers

Before figuring out what to do with a large number of barren flowers, you need to establish the reasons for their formation. Main reasons:

• Excessively close location.
• Deficiency of sun rays.
• The planting material was collected last year.
• Insufficient heating of seeds before planting.

Thuja in a pot: growing at home

To prevent the formation of barren flowers in the future, you need to carefully pinch the top of the crop. This promotes the development of side shoots and the formation of female flowers on them.

Important! Pinch over 5-6 leaves, but higher is acceptable.

Another way to reduce the number of barren flowers is to reduce the amount of watering. Unfavorable conditions for growth and development trigger a mechanism in the plant to prolong the genus, and female flowers are intensively formed. It is necessary to return to the usual frequency of watering as soon as the plant begins to wilt. After such stress, you need to add fertilizers to the soil (boric acid, polycarbonate, rotted humus).

Now a novice agronomist knows how to pollinate cucumbers. Manual pollination of cucumbers does not require special knowledge or special effort, but will allow you to collect pure planting materials for breeding a certain variety.

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Planting cucumbers

In winter, cucumbers can be planted directly in the ground or in seedlings. The second method has its advantages: you can plant plants with a reserve, and then choose the strongest and healthiest ones. In addition, it is much easier to provide the conditions necessary for germination at home.

Scheme of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

To make it easier for the plant to tolerate transplantation, it is necessary to choose the right seedling cups. The root system of cucumbers in the first phase of the growing season develops not in depth, but to the sides, so the glasses should be wide enough. The volume of the cups is at least 0.5 liters.

To plant seedlings, you can use soil prepared for a greenhouse or a purchased mixture. It is advisable to disinfect the homemade mixture by heating it to 80 degrees for an hour.

Step 1. Preparing cups for seedlings. The glasses are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and filled halfway with the soil mixture, lightly crushed and watered. Leave for at least 2-3 hours so that the moisture is evenly distributed throughout the entire volume.

Preparing seedling cups

Step 2. Landing. The treated seeds are placed flat on the soil. Often in the literature there is a recommendation to plant 2 seeds in each glass, so that later you can choose a stronger sprout and pluck out the second one. However, this technique is rarely used for expensive hybrid seeds: they usually germinate well, but it’s a pity to throw away healthy sprouts. Place 1-2 cm of dry soil mixture on top of the seeds. There is no need to water the planted plants - there is enough moisture from the lower layers of the soil for germination, and the upper dry layer will allow the seeds to breathe.

Planting seeds

Step 3. Germination. The cups with seeds are covered with film or glass and placed in a warm place. The temperature before emergence should not fall below 25°C, optimally 28-30°C. Light is not important at this time; seeds germinate in the dark. The cups are inspected twice a day, while simultaneously removing the film for 10-20 minutes for ventilation. When shoots appear, the cups are immediately removed under the lamp.

Germination

Step 4. Cotyledon phase. The most important stage during which the strength and productivity of the plant is established. When a loop appears, the sprouts are placed under a lamp and for the first 2-3 days they are illuminated for 18-20 hours a day. This will prevent the plants from stretching out. If the sprouts still stretch out, add soil up to the very cotyledons.

Seedlings under a lamp

Step 5. Phase of the first two or three leaves. The plants get stronger and grow quite quickly. The backlight is reduced to 14-16 hours a day. In the phase of the second or third leaf, fertilizing is carried out with a complex fertilizer with microelements (Kemira, Zdraven). A few days after fertilizing, the plants can be planted in a greenhouse, choosing the strongest ones.

Planting in a greenhouse

Planting a cucumber directly in the ground

Variety selection and seed preparation

Not all varieties of cucumbers are suitable for growing in winter greenhouses

In order not to be disappointed with the result and get a decent harvest, when selecting a variety it is important to follow several rules

1. In winter, there are no bees or other pollinating insects in the greenhouse, so self-pollinating (or parthenocarpic) varieties and hybrids should be chosen. When choosing bee-pollinated varieties, it is necessary to carry out pollination by hand, and also plant several roots of cucumbers with a male type of flowering - they will provide the necessary pollen.

Cucumbers for growing in winter must be self-pollinating. Natural light during the winter months is insufficient, and creating artificial light in a spectrum close to the sun is quite difficult. For this reason, light-loving plants will not produce a decent harvest in winter. Shade-tolerant varieties should be selected. Maintaining natural humidity in a winter greenhouse is quite difficult: heating dries out the air, and you have to moisten it with frequent watering or spraying. This creates fluctuations in humidity and creates conditions for the rapid development of diseases. You should choose varieties that are resistant to bacterial and viral infections and fungal rot. Shaping plants in a greenhouse is necessary - thickening of plantings leads to diseases

To make this task easier, it is worth paying attention to hybrids with limited branching - these do not produce long side branches, directing all their forces to the growth of the main stem. It is convenient to form them vertically, with a garter to the supports. Hybrid varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses

For guaranteed results, it is better to plant two or three varieties; The following hybrids meet all the described requirements:

• Cupid F1;
• Cheetah F1;
• Dynamite F1;
• Berendey F1;
• Garland F1;
• Courage F1;
• Ant F.

After purchasing seeds, it is necessary to prepare them - this will allow for uniform germination and uniform growth of seedlings, as well as simultaneous fruiting. Preparation consists of several stages.

Step 1: Seed calibration. Dilute a teaspoon of salt in a glass of cool water and put the seeds there for 10-15 minutes. The ones that emerge are removed - they will not sprout or will produce weak plants. In a winter greenhouse, it is not practical to waste time and space on them.

The remaining heavy seeds are washed in running water. Seeds can also be calibrated by size, choosing the smoothest and largest.

Seed calibration

Step 2. Disinfection. To prevent bacterial infections, selected seeds are dipped for 20-30 minutes in a bright purple solution of potassium permanganate or three percent hydrogen peroxide.

Treatment with potassium permanganate

Step 3. Treatment for fungal infections. For fungal rot, seeds are soaked for 2-3 hours in a Fitosporin solution, which is prepared according to the manufacturer’s recommendations indicated on the package. Wash and dry the seeds.

Treatment of seeds in Fitosporin solution

Step 4. Warm up. It is carried out to prevent viral diseases and increase female flowers on the plant. It is most convenient to warm up the seeds in a thermos - it maintains a constant temperature. Pour water with a temperature of +60°C into a thermos, put the seeds in there and keep them for 4-8 hours.

Warming seeds in a thermos

Step 5. Hardening

For winter greenhouses, it is important to grow plants that are resistant to temperature changes and short-term drops in case of severe frosts or interruptions in heating. The seeds are placed in a napkin, moistened and placed on a saucer

Hardening is carried out on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator at a temperature from 0°C to +2°C for 2 days.

Hardening of seeds

Step 6. Stimulation. This technique speeds up germination and activates plant immunity. Stimulation is carried out in a solution of the drug “Epin” or “Zircon” according to the instructions on the bag. A folk recipe gives good results: tear off an aloe leaf, cut it in half lengthwise, place the seeds on the cut, cover with the cut part and wrap it in a napkin. Leave it overnight and plant it in the morning without washing.

Stimulation of seeds in "Epin"

What varieties of cucumbers need pollination?

There are several common cucumber varieties that require pollination:

• Martin. An early-ripening bee-pollinated cucumber intended for planting in a greenhouse. The Swallow harvest manages to ripen 40-50 days after the appearance of young shoots. Ripe cucumbers are compact and are used for pickling.
• ABC. A high-yielding plant with resistance to many diseases and parasites. The main advantage of ABC is considered to be the taste of the crop, which does not have a bitter aftertaste.
• Lord. A mid-season hybrid vegetable that can be grown in both closed and open beds. Lord has good immunity, which protects seedlings from fungal infections and sudden temperature fluctuations. The length of the fruit reaches 15 centimeters, and the weight is 200-250 grams.
• Teremok. A productive vegetable, the bushes of which are dominated by female flowers. Ripe cucumbers are medium in size and grow up to ten centimeters. The mass of Teremok fruits does not exceed 180 grams.
• Acorn. A bee-pollinated hybrid with low bushes and low yield. Acorn greens weigh 120-130 grams and their length is 7-8 centimeters.

See also

Description of unusual ways of planting and growing cucumbers

Read

Hand pollination of cucumbers

Cucumber for seeds

Hello, dear friends!

In most cases, it is customary to leave the yellowed cucumber, hiding between the wide cucumber leaves, for seeds. But this is only correct if you don’t care about the variety. But what to do if you need a specific variety that the gardener loves? Many readers ask about this, because sometimes it’s not so easy to get the seeds of the right variety. Can you get them in your garden? Vera Prokofyevna Kushnereva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, answers this question about seed cucumbers.

If several varieties grow next to each other, then it is possible to obtain pure-quality seeds only by using artificial hand pollination

cucumbers

Doing this kind of pollination is not at all difficult.

Female and male buds should be insulated with a thin layer of cotton wool approximately 24 hours before they bloom (spread a small piece of cotton wool in the shape of a circle and cover the bud with it, wrap it carefully, and twist the tip of the cotton wool into a wick). This must be done so that insects with pollen of a different variety do not penetrate the flower.

Moreover, male flowers need to be insulated with cotton wool 2-3 times more than female ones.

When a day has passed, you can proceed directly to hand pollination. Each female flower must be pollinated with pollen from two or even three male flowers. This should be done in the morning, when the corolla is blooming. The weather for this event should be warm and dry.

Technique for hand pollination of cucumbers

You should tear off the corolla of the male flower and carefully, with light movements, touch the stigma of the female flower. This must be done with the number of female flowers you need to obtain seed cucumbers of the desired variety. When you have the very last male flower left, do not throw it away after pollination, but leave it in the female flower along with the peduncle and calyx, thereby preventing insects from accessing the pistil.

Be sure to mark artificially pollinated fruits with a bright ribbon or label with the name of the variety so that they are not accidentally picked during harvesting.

Seeds can be removed from plants after they acquire the color characteristic of a given variety.

In the conditions of the middle zone and more northern regions, the best sowing qualities are achieved in seeds if the seeds are “ripened” for 14 to 20 days in a dry, warm room. At the same time, the cucumbers become soft, each of them is cut lengthwise and the seeds are scooped out with a spoon along with the juice and pulp into an enamel or glass bowl. It is then placed in a warm place for fermentation to begin. After about 3-4 days, you need to rinse the seeds with water and dry them on a cloth or burlap, stirring regularly. You can determine the end of drying as follows: if the seed does not bend, but breaks when bent, then the drying process can be completed.

When properly stored (at room temperature in a dry room), your own cucumber seeds retain their sowing qualities for up to 10 years.

Artificial hand pollination

Every gardener can make cucumbers. Having your own seeds is always more pleasant and profitable than buying bags with little-known contents. See you!

You might be interested in reading:

• How to feed cucumbers
• Propagation of cucumbers by layering and cuttings
• Cucumbers on a trellis

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Cucumbers in a greenhouse: technology and features of hand pollination, rules for selecting a variety

Categories: cucumbers Self-pollinating varieties of cucumbers are more suitable for growing in a greenhouse. Pollination is essentially the process of joining male and female plant cells, followed by the formation of an ovary at the junction. To perform the procedure for artificial pollination of plants, you must have certain knowledge and be able to distinguish between male and female flowers on any plants, including cucumbers grown in a greenhouse.

Cucumbers: basic information

When growing vegetable or berry crops in open ground conditions, there is, as a rule, no need to carry out artificial or manual pollination, since various pollinating insects and the wind do an excellent job of this task in the open air.

The need for pollination

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse has its own characteristics, including the need to carry out artificial pollination. Manual pollination is carried out in the case of a complete absence of pollinating insects or their insufficient number. Most often, insects stop flying in cloudy or rainy weather. In addition, on cold days, ventilation of the greenhouse becomes irregular, which interferes with the access of insects to the plants.

Insufficient pollination is characterized by the formation of so-called barren flowers on cucumber vines

Insufficient pollination is characterized by the formation of so-called barren flowers on cucumber vines. Vegetable growers who are ignorant of the biological characteristics of plants, as a rule, are perplexed why, with abundant flowering, the formation of ovaries and the formation of fruits do not occur. A massive amount of barren flowers in a greenhouse becomes a reason for manual or artificial pollination.

Pollination rules

The most important thing for carrying out the artificial pollination procedure is the ability to correctly identify female and male cucumber flowers. It is not at all difficult to distinguish them: just carefully examine the plants, and characteristic differences in the type of flowers will become obvious. At the base of the female flower there is always a specific oblong thickening, which, after pollination, turns into the ovary. This thickening is found on the flowers of all plants of this family, including cucumbers, watermelons and melons. Male flowers are not thickened. Inside the cup of the male flower there is a stamen, but no pistils.

You can carry out the pollination process with a regular art brush

The process of manual pollination is carried out in accordance with several rules, which are dictated by the biological characteristics of cucumbers:

• the male flower, located on the main vine of the plant in close proximity to the base, should be picked and the corolla or petal circle removed from it;
• Next, you need to find a female inflorescence on the plant, inside of which there are no stamens, but the pistils are clearly visible;
• The stamen of the male flower should be very carefully placed against the female flower, running it along the top of the pistils. With proper pollination, you can see how pollen from the male flower falls into the cup of the female inflorescence.

You can carry out the pollination process with a regular art brush. It is best to use a soft, large brush made of natural material for artificial pollination of cucumbers in a greenhouse.

How to pollinate cucumbers in a greenhouse (video)

Signs of the best cucumbers for a greenhouse

The best varieties of cucumbers for a greenhouse have the following characteristics:

• the plant is resistant to powdery mildew and other common diseases;
• ripened fruits have crispy and dense pulp;
• vegetables tolerate transportation and long-term storage well;
• cucumbers are suitable for universal use.

The length, color and taste of the fruit may vary depending on the preferences of the vegetable grower. Cucumbers of both bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic varieties are suitable for growing indoors. Parthenocarpic varieties are better known as self-pollinating.

Ripe fruits of the Nezhinsky-12 variety have crispy and dense pulp

Bee-pollinated cucumber varieties

Most gardeners prefer seeds of bee-pollinated varieties for growing indoors. They differ in terms of ripening: early, mid-ripening and late. Bee-pollinated varieties are more often used in open ground, however, when grown in a greenhouse they give a good harvest.

Variety "Nezhinsky-12"

Mid-season, unpretentious, long-climbing variety and resistant to olive spot and bacteriosis. Seeds are sown in fertile soil with a high degree of aeration. When grown in a greenhouse, artificial pollination may be required.

Hybrid "Ira-F1"

Ultra-early ripening, with a significant number of female flowers, medium-climbing and high-yielding hybrid, resistant to many diseases. Seeds are planted both in the greenhouse and in open ground. When performing artificial pollination, the yield increases significantly.

Variety “Elegant” for universal use, bears fruit well in greenhouses and in open ground

Gherkins “Madame-F1”

The hybrid is early ripening, vigorous, with a bunched ovary arrangement and resistance to downy mildew, as well as root rot. It is characterized by intensive fruit formation and uniform yield. Seeds can be sown in a greenhouse or open ground. When grown indoors, it is advisable to pollinate the plant by hand.

Variety "Graceful"

Early ripening, medium-climbing, resistant to olive blotch and with a high level of cold resistance. A variety of universal use, it bears fruit well in a greenhouse and in open ground.

Hybrid "Alligator-F1"

An early-ripening, long-bearing, vigorous hybrid, resistant to downy and powdery mildew.

Cucumbers of the “Emerald Flow-F1” variety are suitable for universal use

Gherkins “Son of the Regiment-F1”

A medium-early, medium-sized, medium-branched hybrid with a significant number of female flowers. Resistant to downy mildew, as well as viral infection by cucumber mosaic and pumpkin scab. Characterized by abundant and long-lasting fruiting. Hand pollination significantly increases yield.

Self-pollinating cucumber varieties

Parthenocarpic, or self-pollinating, cucumber varieties are more suitable for growing indoors. Cultivation of these varieties does not require the participation of pollinating insects. In addition, there is no need to pollinate plants artificially.

"Corinna-F1"

An ultra-early ripening and very high-yielding medium-sized hybrid from German breeders. Characterized by uniform yield, complete absence of bitterness and resistance to many common diseases.

Variety "Miranda-F1" is an early ripening and very high-yielding hybrid with a large number of female flowers

"Emerald Stream-F1"

An early-ripening, vigorous-growing, weakly climbing hybrid with a significant number of female-type flowers. It is resistant to powdery mildew, cold-resistant, shade-tolerant and has a long and continuous fruiting period.

"Miranda-F1"

An early ripening and very high-yielding hybrid with a large number of female flowers. Vigorous, well-leafed, very cold-resistant and resistant to powdery mildew.

No less popular are the hybrids “F1-Connie”, “F1-Masha”, “F1-Champion”, “Courage-F1” and “German-F1”.

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse (video)

To get a good harvest of cucumbers in a greenhouse, you should carefully select the variety and follow the growing technology. If you choose a bee-pollinated variety, you will probably have to do pollination manually, since it is impossible to guarantee sufficient insect activity in closed ground conditions. Self-pollinating varieties are more suitable for growing in a greenhouse and allow you to get a high yield without artificial pollination.

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Watering on schedule

You will be interested to know that the real ancestors of the modern cucumber came from the jungle, and these fruits were very bitter. And all because they grew too crowded, and they ended up lacking either moisture or nutrients. Try to repeat this experiment on your own plot and with ordinary seeds - the result will be the same, believe me. Haven’t you ever bought beautiful, but very bitter cucumbers at the market?

Before flowering, water greenhouse cucumbers once every 5-7 days, and after flowering - every 2-3 days. After all, it is during this period that the fruits begin to “pour,” as people say. Normal watering of cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse is 1-2 buckets per 1 m2. Even if you are very busy, still do not water the cucumbers with cold water - this will cause powdery mildew to appear on the leaves and the plants will die. Just don’t water the cucumbers with a hose - strong pressure will wash away the soil, and this, in turn, will damage the root system.

To prevent the plant from growing too actively upward and taking all the moisture and nutrients, just pinch it:

Rules for pollination in a greenhouse

To carry out the pollination process yourself in greenhouse conditions, it is worth remembering the following rules:

• It is better to carry out painstaking work on the 2nd day after the opening of the inflorescences;
• You must remember the acceptable level of humidity in the room is 75%. Lower or higher readings may harm the pollen being carried;
• In order for the male pollinator plant to contribute to the ovary, it is necessary to maintain suitable temperature conditions. The work is carried out at +20-25 degrees. If the indicators are too high, the pollen loses its reproductive properties. As the temperature decreases, slow formation of ovaries is observed;
• To obtain a productive harvest, you need to transfer pollen material from one bush to another (cucumbers must be of the same variety).
• The procedure is carried out every day for 2-3 weeks until strong ovaries are formed. If the required conditions (temperature, humidity, pollination method) are violated, all efforts may be in vain.

Pollination by artificial method

Pollination of a castrated tomato flower.

First you need to decide on the time. The best time for pollination is in the morning, from eight to ten in the morning, since pollen ripens at night. Naturally, during the flowering period and once every 2-4 days until the result is achieved. Doing this more often simply won’t work, since pollen ripens every 2-4 days.

Technically the process is very simple. The most primitive method is shaking. Each tomato bush needs to be shaken, gently holding it by the trunk. If the trunks are tied, you can simply tap the tether. This way the trunks will not be damaged.

If it is possible to use a fan, you can bring it to each plant in turn, thus creating artificial wind. Pollen blown away by air currents will settle on neighboring flowers.

The third method is using a brush. Its bristles become dirty with pollen, and then it sweeps over the pistil of another flower. A good option is to use an electric toothbrush.

Immediately after the pollination process, it is necessary to artificially increase the air humidity in the greenhouse.

To do this, you can simply water the plants or spray them. If the greenhouse area is small, spraying is done with a hand sprayer. Wetting will improve pollen germination. But in any case, two or three hours after this, the greenhouse should be opened for ventilation. Otherwise, increased humidity will form inside, which leads to pollen clumping. High humidity also increases the sugar level in tomato fruits and worsens their overall taste.

For better setting, some gardeners during the flowering period spray the flowers with a solution of boric acid, 10 grams of powder per 10 liters of water. Specialized preparations are also suitable for these purposes: “Ovary”, “Bud” and others. However, they only help natural processes and cannot replace them completely. If everything went well, in about a week you can see the first fruit ovaries.

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By combining all the pollination methods described above, you can achieve excellent results and delight yourself and your loved ones with large, juicy tomatoes all year round!

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Favorable conditions

In order to pollinate a plant crop on your own without bees, you should follow the recommended conditions:

1. focus on air humidity. It should stay at the average level - 70%. At lower levels, pollen tends to dry out. High humidity levels can cause changes in the properties of genetic material;
2. the temperature should be kept at an average level - no less than 14-15 degrees and no more than 25 degrees;
3. The procedure is carried out in the first half of the day. Preferably early in the morning. Acceptable weather conditions - cloudy, calm;
4. female inflorescences are treated 2 days after emergence. This guarantees correct and fruitful pollination;
5. If it is necessary to pollinate a plant using the varietal method, the flowers are temporarily covered so that insects do not have access to them. To do this, use a thin film.

Bushes on which flowers have self-pollinated need to be covered or marked. But first check that the process was successful. Hand pollination, although considered difficult, is widely used by many summer residents when growing cucumbers in open and closed ground. Such root crops are obtained as varietals. This means you can collect seeds from them and not worry about yield indicators. In addition, artificial pollination helps to obtain selected and large root crops with a juicy taste.

Attracting insects

The basis of the method is to attract bees to the greenhouse. Plants are sprayed with a sweet solution.

For this you will need:

• Warm water 1l.
• Honey, sugar or jam 1 tbsp. spoon.
• Boric acid 0.1 g.

It is necessary not only to attract the smell, but also to help them get into the greenhouse. To do this, open windows and doors. The main thing is not to the detriment of the room temperature and humidity.

If possible, you can have a whole family of bees. Position the hive so that it stands at a height of 40 cm, and is well warmed in the morning sun. Insects must be well oriented; first, they should get used to their surroundings. They are released into a warm greenhouse when there is nothing there yet. Over time, the bee colony will begin its work.

During the flowering of natural honey plants, they need to be provided with flight outside the greenhouse. To do this, a small window is made in the lid; it needs to be whitened around it, this will help the bees easier to find their way back to the hive.

If cucumbers are grown in early spring, then the house with the bees is placed in a greenhouse. If in warmer times, the hive is left outside, pressed closely against the wall of the greenhouse, providing them with unobstructed entry. The hole made in the wall is aligned with the entrance to the hive. So insects will fly around the greenhouse, fly out of it into the street, through the window on the roof.

Air temperature and sun protection

Make sure that the soil temperature on the day of planting is not lower than 18°C. If it is lower, the seedlings may wither, and surviving specimens will have too weak a root system.

For the first week after planting cucumber seedlings, keep the temperature in the greenhouse at 20-22°C. Exactly a week later, when new leaves appear and the root system begins to grow, reduce the temperature to 18-20°C. Note that some modern hybrids of this tropical vine already feel good at 16°C.

A prolonged cold spell with an air temperature of 8-10°C will lead to the death of the plant, and at a temperature of 3-4°C this will happen in just three days. Even at a depth of 20 cm, the soil in the greenhouse should be no colder than 20°C.

But when the first fruits begin to set, it is important not to allow the temperature in your cucumber greenhouse to rise above 18°C. The fact is that heat always stimulates the growth and development of a plant, and in the heat, cucumber fruits begin to grow too quickly, fiercely fighting for their moisture and nutrients

As a result, they are distributed unevenly, and the plant itself ages prematurely.

That is why a too long sunny day is also not a joy for a cucumber - the plant will set a lot of fruits and quickly get tired. There's a reason cucumbers that haven't been shaped grow like a jungle - they don't actually like direct sunlight. Therefore, if the sun is a frequent visitor in your region, throw a sun protection net over the greenhouse or whiten the glass with chalk. If the nights in the greenhouse are cold, be sure to cover the cucumbers, and on hot days shade them on the south side.

How to pollinate cucumbers at home

Manual pollination of cucumbers can be done in two ways: using a brush or a flower. The two methods are characterized by their simplicity, which will allow you to improve vegetable crops in a short period of time. It is advisable to install bee hives in a greenhouse or greenhouse. They make work easier for people. Before the procedure, compliance with all recommended conditions is checked. A video of different pollinations is presented below.

Pollination by brush

The process is carried out using an artistic brush

At the same time, pay attention to the fact that the brush is soft. The method is usually used for seedlings on the balcony

To carry out the operation, you should follow the following steps:

• collect pollen from the stamens with a brush;
• apply the characteristic yellow dust to the pistils;
• female flowers can be covered with paper caps;
• After 24 hours, view the pollinated flowers and remove the wilted ones;
• Remove the protection after the ovaries enlarge.

If male flowers begin to fade, they are removed. This saves the consumption of nutrients and water for other parts of the plant.

Note! Instead of brushes, gardeners use cotton swabs. This is recommended in cases where there is no brush.

Pollination by flowers and in the greenhouse by insects

You can independently transfer pollen from a male flower to a female one using another method. To do this, the male inflorescence without characteristic spots is pulled out. Then all the petals are removed, leaving only the pistil. The stamens are brought to the female flower and lightly rubbed against each other. The more pollen, the greater the chance of a successful operation. 1 female flower is pollinated by 2-3 male types. To avoid cross-pollination, processed flowers are marked with thread.

Pollination of cucumbers in a greenhouse can be done with the help of bees. You can lure them by spraying the bushes with a mixture of water, boric acid and honey. The windows and doors are first opened so that insects can get to the flower. You can also set up a hive in a greenhouse. It is placed at a height of about 35-45 centimeters. Place it on the side of the wall, across the path.

The bee house needs good lighting, and the rear window is darkened with plywood. When the plant is flowering, it is necessary to make a hole so that the bees can fly out. A window is cut in the roof of the greenhouse and heavily outlined with chalk. White color helps insects navigate in space.

Growing in a greenhouse

Let's consider the possibility of growing bee-pollinated varieties of cucumbers in a greenhouse. Not everyone knows that this process is quite possible, although it may be associated with a number of problems. However, our gardener is not afraid of difficulties!

Considering all the phases of the process from planting seeds to harvesting, it should be noted that the most important stage will be the pollination process.

Pollination process in a greenhouse

Experienced gardeners know that pollination can be achieved in a greenhouse in two ways (unless, of course, self-pollinating varieties are planted):

1. With the help of insects.
2. Using artificial pollination.

If the weather is warm and sunny, opening the greenhouse doors to attract bees is the first method. And if it is very doubtful, then the second is preferable. It is difficult to attract insects to a greenhouse. They are reluctant to fly even through wide open doors. Moreover, even if a few bees get inside, no one can guarantee that they will do their job perfectly. Therefore, they often resort to the second method. Cucumbers will give a rich harvest if everything is done correctly.

A little theory

So, as mentioned earlier, flowers are divided into male and female. In order to carry out artificial pollination, you will need to take a paint brush and spend a sufficient amount of time.

Important! For artificial pollination in a greenhouse, it is necessary to have both female and a sufficient number of male flowers. Learn in advance to distinguish two inflorescences from each other

It's very easy to do. The photo below shows two flowers, and it’s immediately obvious what the difference between them is

Learn in advance to distinguish two inflorescences from each other. It's very easy to do. The photo below shows two flowers, and it’s immediately obvious what the difference between them is.

• Male flowers are usually located in the leaf axils at the bottom of the plant and grow in groups;
• The female flowers grow separately, under each of them you can see a small ovary, similar to a small cucumber.

For clarity, we suggest watching a short video. It will help you finally understand how to distinguish one species from another.

Important! Cucumber is a monoecious plant. Both male and female flowers are produced on the same plant

Detailed job description

The essence of the pollination process in a greenhouse comes down to the transfer of pollen from a male flower to a female flower to produce an ovary. This is done using a simple paint brush. You can use a soft toothbrush or a cotton swab - whichever is more convenient for you, however, working with a brush is simple and reliable.

You can also pick the male flower and carefully remove the corolla (petals), leaving the stamen open. Then, with simple movements, pollen from the stamens is transferred to the stigmas of the pistils of female flowers. Under no circumstances should female flowers be removed, since they are the ones that produce bee-pollinated cucumbers.

Possible problems

Things may not always go smoothly. Remember that bee-pollinated cucumbers, regardless of variety, require both male and female flowers. Sometimes it happens that the male ones have already grown up, but the female ones have not had time to take shape. There is a real problem called barren flower.

We can and should fight this problem! Cucumber flowers open for only a day, and pollination must be done as soon as possible. The cause of barren flowers can be:

• poor quality of purchased seeds;
• improper cultivation (cucumbers love moisture, sun and warmth);
• lack of feeding;
• refusal to pinch;
• incorrect selection of varietal seeds independently.

If you buy seeds in a store, give preference to trusted manufacturers. If you select seeds yourself, remember:

• It will not be possible to obtain a new high-quality harvest from hybrids;
• It is necessary to be able to distinguish male cucumbers from female ones.

A female cucumber of any variety has four seed chambers, while a male cucumber has three. In order for the harvest to be of high quality, the seeds must sit for at least 2-3 years before planting.

If you create the correct climatic conditions for the seedlings, pinching and fertilizing them in time, you will not be in danger of being barren.

Topping

Regardless of whether you grow bee-pollinated cucumbers in open ground or in a greenhouse, it is necessary to stimulate the growth of side shoots. This rule applies to both early and late varieties. The procedure differs slightly:

• for early varieties, pinch the main shoot after 8-10 leaves;
• for late varieties it is necessary to do this after 6-8 leaves.

Additionally, you will remove dense growths and allow the plant to give all its strength to its offspring, and this is also a big plus.

What to consider when choosing varieties and hybrids of cucumbers for the greenhouse

When choosing cucumbers for growing in a greenhouse, the following are taken into account:

• purpose of fruits;
• method of pollination;
• endurance in the shade;
• ripening time;
• productivity;
• seasonality;
• ripening period;
• resistance to pests and diseases.

Pollination type

Cucumbers according to the type of pollination can be:

1. Parthenocarpic hybrids for greenhouses with predominantly female flowers. The fruits have almost no seeds.
2. Self-pollinating varieties combine female and male flowers, which allows them to pollinate themselves.
3. Insect-pollinated crops are used for professional greenhouses where the ceilings are retractable.

Growing time

Seedlings are ready for transplanting into a greenhouse at the age of 24–30 days. That is, from the expected planting date, you need to subtract 30 days for seedling growth and 7 days for strengthening; this date is optimal for planting seed to obtain seedlings.

Attention: When purchasing seeds, you need to study the packaging, where on the back there are recommendations on how to grow a specific variety in a greenhouse and planting dates.

Economic purpose

When purchasing seed material, you need to determine the purpose of the crop. According to the method of use, cucumbers are:

1. Universal varieties.
2. Pickling types. Used for canning.
3. Salad varieties.

Attention: The purpose of cucumbers is indicated on the packaging. If this information is not available, the color of the thorns will help determine the use of the fruit.

Salad varieties have white spines, and the skin has a more delicate shade.

Sustainability

Cucumber varieties are distinguished by shade tolerance. Spring and summer species are light-loving; you can get a good harvest in a greenhouse only with sufficient lighting. And winter cucumbers can tolerate shade very well.

Frost resistance is the main condition for the northern regions. Even with thermal insulation in the greenhouse, some varieties of cucumbers may die when planted early, becoming infected with a fungus. Therefore, at the beginning of autumn, only frost-resistant species are planted.

The main differences between male and female flowering types

Before artificially pollinating vegetables, it is necessary to understand the main differences between female and male flowers.

Locations

You can distinguish male and female flowers by their location. Most often, male flowers are located in the lower part of the bushes.

Appearance

Experienced gardeners recommend paying attention to their appearance to distinguish different types of flowers. Female flowers have small stamens, which are located on one of the side shoots. Outwardly, they look like a small seal that resembles a ripe cucumber.

Inside male flowers, instead of pistils, there is a pollinator, which is needed for pollination. If you gently shake the plant, a small pollen cloud will form near the male barren flower.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Irrigation with cold water, lack of light, and contaminated soil lead to diseases. To avoid diseases and pests, it is recommended:

1. Select large seeds for sowing and thoroughly disinfect them.
2. Wash the planting container with baking soda in warm water.
3. Disinfect the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate.
4. Observe the regime of light and heat.
5. Water the bushes only with warm and clean water.
6. Pinch and shape plants in a timely manner.
7. Treat cucumbers with Bordeaux mixture, wood ash solution, and whey.
8. Regularly inspect the bushes for signs of disease: dry and yellow leaves, brown spots, white bloom.

If not properly cared for, indoor cucumbers develop powdery mildew. White spots appear on the leaves, which can be removed by spraying with Previkur. Another disease, copperhead, appears as deep brown spots on fruits and leaves. The copperhead cannot be treated; infected bushes and cucumbers are removed.

Whiteflies and aphids are dangerous pests. Miniature white insects reproduce quickly and settle on the inside of the cucumber leaf. Because of them, the bushes dry out and cucumbers lose their taste. A tobacco-based decoction helps get rid of pests.