Apricot Champion of the North: description, photos, characteristics, reviews from gardeners

History of selection

The ancestor of the Champion of the North is considered to be the well-known and widespread apricot Triumph northern. It was on its basis that a new promising variety was developed by crossing open pollination with other varieties of apricot and subsequent sowing. Selection work to develop the Champion of the North was carried out on the basis of Voronezh State Agrarian University (Voronezh State Agrarian University) under the guidance of two botanists: L. A. Dolmatova and A. N. Venyaminov in the 70s of the last century.

The goal of the breeders was to obtain an apricot that would survive and successfully bear fruit in the extreme conditions of severe winter frosts, punctuated by sudden, sharp thaws. Such a changeable climate in winter, as well as probable late spring frosts, are typical for the Central Black Earth zone, for which the apricot variety was intended. Over time, the Champion of the North began to be cultivated far beyond these borders: in the Belgorod, Voronezh, Tambov, Kursk, Lipetsk and even in the Moscow (Moscow region) regions.

Important! Apricot Champion of the North does not have official accreditation in the Russian State Register.

Northern Triumph was used in the development of many frost-resistant apricot varieties

Climate and growing regions

Trees of the Champion of the North variety tolerate harsh winters well. They can easily withstand frosts down to -30 degrees. The plants are also drought-resistant and unpretentious to various weather disasters. This allows the hybrid to be grown over a vast territory of our country and in the CIS countries.

In our country, this type of crop grows well not only in the south, but also in the Central and Central Black Earth regions, in the Volga region, the Middle Zone and even in the North-Western Federal District.

Description of the variety

Compared to other apricot trees, which often reach 8 m in height, the Champion of the North is considered a low-growing variety, since it rarely outgrows 4-5 m. Due to the slowly forming shoots, its spherical crown is not too dense, sparse, but the skeletal branches are powerful and thick, covered with brownish-brown bark, smooth to the touch. The leaf blades of the Champion of the North apricot are of a regular shape, medium in size, shiny and smooth, colored in a standard light green shade, changing to a spectacular orange-red in the fall.

Delicate flowers are pink-lilac or almost white with juicy pink stamens, quite large (up to 30 mm). Champion of the North is a self-fertile variety, since both male and female flowers are present on the tree at the same time. The spiny shoots on apricot shoots that bear buds (floral and vegetative) end in beautiful inflorescences.

The ripened fruits of the Champion of the North, judging by the numerous photos of gardeners growing this apricot, are roundish-oval in shape, covered with a thick velvety-pubescent skin of a rich sunny orange color with a light crumbly raspberry blush. The inner pulp of the apricot is slightly sour, refreshingly sweet, dense and dry, easily separated from the rather large free pit. The apricot kernel is edible, sweet, with a pronounced almond flavor.

Important! In terms of taste, Champion of the North is assessed by expert tasters as good and excellent (on average 4.6 points).

The fruits of this apricot variety are very attractive in appearance.

Pros and cons of the variety

The advantages of the variety include resistance to frost and drought, early ripening, large fruits, high yield, excellent taste of the fruit, and good preservation during transportation.

If you follow the growing tips, then this apricot variety will delight gardeners for a long time with its beautiful healthy fruits for delicacy and preparations from them. If you look closely and listen to the plant, you can determine its character and feel the good energy response, because it is a living creature.

Characteristics

From his ancestor, Champion of the North received exceptional varietal characteristics. They allow the apricot to survive in places with a completely unsuitable climate.

Drought resistance, winter hardiness

The most important quality that distinguishes Champion of the North from other apricot varieties is its amazing winter hardiness. The wood of the trunk and branches can withstand frosts down to -35 °C and even lower. Flower buds show slightly worse frost resistance and in particularly harsh winters they often freeze slightly (during sudden temperature changes). But the Champion of the North variety is endowed with a natural ability to regenerate, so it recovers on its own, while freezing has virtually no effect on apricot yield.

The Champion of the North survives multi-day heat (above +25 °C) easily - thanks to its strong and thick bark. The lack of natural precipitation does not in any way affect the formation of ovaries and the ripening of apricots if the trees are watered regularly and abundantly, and the soil in the tree trunk is mulched.

Pollination, flowering period and ripening time

The apricot flowering period is short - no more than 10 days, usually occurring in the last week of April or the first half of May. The Champion of the North is self-pollinating, but in order to increase productivity, experienced gardeners recommend planting pollinator plants of other related apricot varieties (Lel, Northern Triumph) in close proximity to it. In terms of ripening time, Champion of the North is classified as a mid-late variety.

Apricot tree branches covered with flowers

Productivity, fruiting

The young seedling of the Champion of the North blooms for the first time already in the third season after planting; in the same year, minor fruiting can be expected. Apricot trees reach their peak yield (25-30 kg) at 5-6 years of age; they can live up to 30-35 years. The maximum weight of one ripe fruit is 65 g, but on average the weight usually varies between 50-55 g. If too many ovaries have formed on the Champion of the North tree, then the apricots become noticeably smaller, barely reaching 30-35 g. Fruiting is consistent, lasting about 3 -3.5 weeks. Apricot fruits begin to ripen en masse from mid-July.

Area of ​​application of fruits

The Champion of the North has a universal scope. Most often, the fruits are eaten immediately fresh or dried. Apricots are suitable as an ingredient for all kinds of fruit desserts (salads, confiture, jam, preserves). They can be frozen, canned (compotes), and also used to prepare sweet dessert alcoholic drinks (cordials, wine, liqueurs).

Resistance to diseases and pests

Apricot Champion of the North is quite resistant to various infectious and fungal pathologies and demonstrates good immunity to them. However, gardeners warn about the extremely low resistance of the variety to hole spot and gray rot. All kinds of insects very often settle on apricot trees, causing them significant harm.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undoubted positive qualities inherent in the Champion of the North include:

• drought resistance;
• excellent and stable yield;
• self-pollinating;
• large fruit;
• high marketability of ripe apricots (appearance);
• early fruiting (the first harvest of apricots will be in the 3-4th season);
• excellent traditional apricot taste;
• transportability;
• highest frost resistance;
• resistance to a number of diseases (thanks to the loose and unthickened crown);
• versatility of use;
• good keeping quality of apricots.

Even proper storage is impossible for a long time

Along with a lot of advantages, the Champion of the North variety also has some negative aspects:

• the possibility of freezing (with sharp amplitude changes in temperature) of fruit buds;
• some dryness and fibrousness of ripe apricot fruits, as well as characteristic sourness (especially the skin);
• the need for pollinators (in case of unfavorable weather, self-pollination will be poor);
• susceptibility to moniliosis;
• exposure to massive attacks by a large number of pests.

Harvesting and processing the Champion of the North crop

The fruits ripen by mid or late July. Fruiting lasts for 1 month. Apricots form and ripen slowly, but in large quantities - harvesting can be done in 2-3 stages. It is not recommended to keep the fruits on the branches for a long time; it is better to clean them immediately.

The dried fruits of the Champion of the North variety have a very pleasant taste

The harvest is suitable for fresh consumption, in salads, desserts or for processing (canning, baking). Dried fruits have a pleasant taste. And if the year turns out to be particularly fruitful, you can also freeze some of the apricots, this will not spoil their taste and aroma.

Interesting!

When dried, apricot fruits practically do not lose their beneficial properties.

Landing Features

The Champion of the North is not particularly capricious. However, when planting this apricot, it is necessary to adhere to clear rules of agricultural technology.

Recommended timing

The best time to plant the Champion of the North is considered to be early spring, when nature is just waking up from sleep, and active sap flow has not yet begun. The exact timing directly depends on the local climate. It is permissible to plant apricot trees in the autumn before the onset of persistent frosts.

Choosing a suitable location

When choosing the optimal place for planting apricots, you must remember that, like all stone fruits, this crop is very light-loving. The Champion of the North will develop better and bear fruit more abundantly in well-lit, open and sun-warmed spaces. The presence of groundwater close to the surface (above 1.2 m) should not be allowed. Lowlands and flooded areas are not suitable for apricot. The place must be protected from sharp gusty winds and drafts.

Attention! It is ideal to place the Champion of the North apricot tree on the leeward, southern side of the building, or on a slope directed to the south (southeast, southwest).

What crops can and cannot be planted next to apricots?

Champion of the North, like other apricot varieties, needs to be planted separately. It cannot stand close proximity to fruit crops. The large plant competes with shrubs and other trees for moisture and nutrients. Some stone fruits (peaches, cherries) have common pests and are susceptible to the same diseases.

An apricot tree can get along well in close proximity only to its direct relatives, who are also pollinators. It is permissible to grow garden and ornamental crops (greens, flowers, lawn grass) in the tree trunk of an aged apricot.

Important! Nightshades (eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes) and garden strawberries should not be placed next to the Champion of the North, as they often spread a dangerous incurable disease - verticillium wilt.

Apricot trees are considered solitary plants

Selection and preparation of planting material

1-2 year old seedlings of the Champion of the North take root best. Older specimens tolerate transplantation much more difficult. High-quality apricot planting material is characterized by:

• a healthy and branched root system, without signs of rot or any damage;
• the presence of healthy, large and strong kidneys;
• straight, uncurved trunk;
• several intact and strong branches.

It is better to purchase apricot seedlings in the autumn, when the choice is wider and the quality of planting material is much higher. In order for the apricot tree to be safely preserved until spring, its roots are dipped in a clay mash diluted to the consistency of liquid sour cream. After the clay dries a little, the plant is placed in a box with wet sand or sawdust, kept at a temperature of up to +3+5 °C (underground, basement). You can also save the Champion of the North apricot in the open ground on your site by digging a hole and placing a seedling in it at an angle. The roots must be covered with soil.

Landing algorithm

The technology for planting the Champion of the North is as follows:

1. In about 3-4 weeks (possible even in autumn), a planting hole for apricot is prepared - about 0.6 m in depth and in diameter.
2. From dug up fertile soil, humus, low-lying peat and coarse sand, taken in equal parts, adding superphosphate (200-250 g), nitroammophoska (150-170 g) and wood ash (0.8-1 kg), mix the soil mixture.
3. A mound is formed from the prepared nutrient soil at the bottom of the pit.
4. Drive the support stake approximately 10-15 cm from the center.
5. Having carefully spread the apricot roots in different directions, a Champion of the North seedling is placed on the hill and tied to a support. The plant needs to be shortened to 0.6-0.8 m and all branches trimmed.
6. The planting hole is filled to the top with soil mixture, compacted, trampled down and a roller is formed for watering in the tree trunk circle. Lay mulch (needles, peat, humus).
7. Apricot seedlings are watered generously.

Apricot seedlings are planted in the same way as other stone fruits.

Advantages and disadvantages

Summer residents are advised to pay attention to the apricot variety because it:

• bears fruit quickly and abundantly;
• withstands spring frosts and decreased temperatures in winter;
• highly productive;
• with a compact and sparse crown;
• produces fruits of excellent quality.

If diseases bypass the tree, pests often attack the variety. The disadvantage of apricot is that it needs pollinators. Sometimes, during severe spring frosts, the buds of a tree may freeze.

Subsequent care of the crop

Post-planting care for young apricots Champion of the North consists of the following agrotechnical manipulations:

1. Rare (3-4 times per season), but abundant (30-50 liters per tree) watering.
2. Weeding and loosening apricots (after every good rain and watering).
3. Feeding. After planting (2-3 years), if the hole has been filled correctly, the tree does not need to be fertilized additionally. Subsequently, the Champion of the North specimens that have begun to bear fruit are fed at least three times a season: in the spring - nitrogen-containing fertilizers (chicken manure, slurry), in the summer - superphosphate and potassium salt, in the autumn - humus (compost).
4. Pruning and crown formation (usually only in the first 3 years).
5. Whitewashing apricot trunks and skeletal branches with protective compounds before winter.

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate garden crops, but cuttings are often chosen. Green cuttings are prepared in the spring or early summer morning. It is important that the cut branch has 3 leaves. It is necessary to dip the end of the cutting into a growth stimulator and plant it in the garden bed. When a callus appears at the end after 2 weeks, this means that the cutting has taken root and in a month it will form a root system.

Lignified shoots are harvested after leaf fall. Until spring they are kept in the ground in a cool place, and then planted in the selected area.

The variety is also propagated by seeds, but this method is labor-intensive and not always successful. Seed material is kept in cool water for a long time before planting. The soil for planting seeds consists of damp moss, sawdust or sand. The seeds are placed there and kept in a bag or container in a cool place for up to 2-3 months. The seeds are then planted in nutrient soil to a depth of 10 centimeters. Now keep at a temperature of 10-15 degrees Celsius. The sprout may appear in 3-4 months.

The method of propagation by grafting is the most appropriate, but it must be performed skillfully, having mastered the skills of performing the operation.



Diseases and pests

The Champion of the North variety exhibits low resistance to some fungal pathologies:

1. Gray rot, otherwise called moniliosis. A dangerous disease that is difficult to treat. Fungal spores are easily carried by gusts of wind and carried by insects. The disease manifests itself as light gray fluffy growths on all parts of the plant. Affected leaves curl and fall off, branches dry out. The fruits of the Champion of the North apricot do not reach maturity, cracking while still green. As a preventive measure, spraying with fungicidal agents (Bordeaux mixture, Gamair, Horus) is effective.
2. Perforated spotting, scientifically called klyasterosporiosis. First, gray spots surrounded by a brownish dark rim appear on the leaf blades. Over time, the affected areas dry out, leaving behind through holes. Then the foliage dries out completely. Apricots develop reddish-brown markings. Repeated treatments with fungicides (copper sulfate, Zineb, Quadris) will help.

Moniliosis most often affects apricot trees

Apricot trees Champion of the North are periodically attacked by harmful insects:

1. Weevil. Harmful beetles feed on apricot leaves, not disdaining flowers and fruits (they gnaw holes). Pests are collected manually and the affected trees are treated with insecticidal preparations (Kinmiks, Inta-Vir).
2. Aphid. Young shoots and leaves of apricot curl. Numerous small insects sitting inside the cocoon suck out plant juices. The sucking pest cannot resist systemic insecticides (Decis, Biotlin).
3. Leaf roller. A small moth that creates a shelter from danger from the leaves of the Champion of the North. She rolls the apricot leaf blades into a tube and feeds on them at the same time. The highly effective drug Chlorophos will help.
4. Codling moth. Small whitish-gray butterflies lay eggs in flowers, on leaf petioles and ovaries. Apricots do not grow, rot, and crumble. For control, various traps and belts are used, as well as gentle insecticides (Entobacterin, Rovikurt).

To avoid infection of apricot trees of the Champion of the North variety with diseases and to minimize the consequences of pest attacks, it is necessary to carry out regular and mandatory preventive treatments. During the period of ovary formation and apricot harvest, it is better to avoid strong chemicals.

How to choose a seedling and place for planting

Seedling

The key to the high yield of the Champion of the North is the correct choice of seedlings

It is necessary to pay attention to the root system, it should be strong, and to the leaves of the seedling, curled in shape and not open.

And it is also important that the roots of the seedling are moistened the entire time they are outside the soil: placed in a container with an earthen ball, wrapped in damp burlap, or immersed in a clay “matter”. It is not recommended to take a plant whose root system is completely open, as the roots could dry out over time or begin to rot

Such a seedling will develop poorly and become sick. A good root system should be about a meter in diameter. That is why it is preferable to replant the plant in a habitat similar to its usual one, and look for soils similar to its native one.

It is not recommended to take a plant whose root system is completely open, as the roots could dry out over time or begin to rot. Such a seedling will develop poorly and become sick. A good root system should be about a meter in diameter. That is why it is preferable to replant the plant in a habitat similar to its usual one, and look for soils similar to its native one.

Unlike ordinary apricot varieties, winter-hardy varieties are planted not in the fall, but in the spring, which allows the generative buds to be protected from the low temperatures of temperate latitudes.

Landing place

When choosing a planting site, you need to pay attention to sufficient illumination and heating of the area by the sun, protection from northern winds. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

• the site should be flat, without differences in height, so that the fruits receive even sunlight, without cold “pits” that can lead to poor yields;
• the planting site is selected taking into account that the seedlings are on the south or southwest side;
• the soil should be quite loose and have an average percentage of acidity; neutral soils are ideal for stone fruit crops.

Planting a plant

The soil of the Russian northern latitudes is very poor, often consisting of sand and clay, and sometimes there may be an addition of acidic soil. Therefore, experts advise planting the plant in a previously prepared hole, enriched with vitamins and calcium.

Clay is used to insulate the planting pit. The depth of the funnel should be about a meter, and the length and width of the pit should be about 80 cm. The distance between trees is allowed from 5 meters, since developed tree crowns should not shade each other. Stages of planting a shoot:

1. In the spring, a stake is installed in a hole specially prepared in the fall - a support for the future tree.
2. Several kilograms of crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the hole for drainage.
3. A funnel is formed in a small hill at the bottom of the pit for pouring water.
4. After water has seeped through the bed of crushed stone, the tree is carefully installed.
5. Periodically shaking the roots of the seedling, the tree is covered with earth.

Red-cheeked

This winter-hardy apricot was bred in 1947 and over time became very popular among summer residents. The variety is characterized by good productivity and the ability to adapt to unfavorable conditions. To preserve these important qualities, such popular hybrids as Nikitinsky, Nikolaevsky, Son of Red-cheeked, Red-cheeked Salgirsky and others were bred on the basis of Red-cheeked.

Red-cheeked is a mid-season variety. The tree grows to a medium size, with a spreading, rounded crown. The fruits ripen round or ovoid, their skin is pubescent, golden-orange with a slight reddish blush. The pulp is very tasty, sweet and sour, aromatic.

The advantage of this variety is also that the tree begins to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting the seedling.

Snegirek

This is the undoubted leader in winter hardiness. With light shelter, apricots of the Snegirek variety are grown even in the North. Not only is this small tree (up to 1.5 m high) not afraid of frosts (including spring frosts, since it blooms late), but it also grows well on any soil, even not very fertile.

This variety has other advantages: the fruits are very elastic, so they are stored well (until mid-winter) and are not damaged during transportation. Their color is light yellow with a burgundy blush, the flesh is sweet, juicy and aromatic, but sometimes it can be a little bitter near the skin.

However, Snegirek still has one drawback: it is not resistant to diseases such as leaf spot and moniliosis. If there are frequent long rains in spring and summer, the tree needs careful care and regular treatments (for example, with Xopyc) to prevent the development of dangerous diseases.