Homemade tomato from Angelina. Reviews about the store

Description of the variety

In its homeland, Kuban, this tomato grows in open ground. In midland conditions, it is recommended to grow this powerful indet in a greenhouse. This is also due to the timing of ripening, since the Kolovy variety is a mid-season tomato, and in regions with a short summer on the ridges the fruits may not have time to form.

The beautiful Kolovoy bush reaches a height of approximately 170-180 cm, and can reach up to 200 cm. The plant is powerful, with spreading branches, so no more than three bushes are planted per square meter. The foliage is high, and this is also the reason for strict adherence to the planting scheme.

You can pick the fruits after about 110-115 days, but they will not be quite ripe (green), in a state of technical ripeness. It will take about another week and a half until full ripening.

Features of cultivation

We recommend sowing the seeds of this tomato for seedlings 60-65 days before the intended planting in the ground. When planting seedlings per 1 sq. meter place up to 3 plants.

The fruit is oval, with an average weight of 190-230 g. The pulp is dense, fleshy, without voids, and has excellent taste. The color of an unripe tomato is green, a ripe one is red. Tomatoes are not prone to late blight, scab, Alternaria and cladosporiosis. This variety is grown using seedlings. To do this, the seeds are sown in containers to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Picking is carried out when the first pair of true leaves develops. Seedlings need daily light and moderate watering.

If you grew Kolovy Kubansky tomatoes, please write whether you liked them or not. What was the yield and taste of the fruit? Has this variety become your favorite? If possible, attach to the comment a photo of the entire bush as a whole or individual fruits that you grew. Thank you!

This year the harvest was simply excellent. We really like Kuban kola tomatoes. They are quite large, very tasty, not sour, not fluffy. I grew them through seedlings. The seedlings were planted directly into the ground. The Kuban variety is not afraid of drought or cold, so I planted them in open ground. These tomatoes only grow in my greenhouse. The taste of the Kuban cola is sweeter than other varieties, but not as juicy as De Barao.

Your reviews of the Kolovy Kubansky tomato variety and additions to the description will help many tomato lovers evaluate this variety more objectively and decide whether it is worth planting or not.

This is a natural variety of tomato. Therefore, we recommend taking seeds from a ripe fruit and using them for planting in subsequent seasons.

Fruit characteristics

This variety is known for its amazing-tasting and beautiful-looking tomatoes. By weight - up to 250-400 grams, while some tomatoes may be larger. The shape is heart-shaped, regular and symmetrical.

The fruits have a thin but rather dense skin and are not prone to cracking. The pulp is unusually aromatic and sweet, there are very few seeds. The chambers of the fruit are located at the edges, most of the insides are occupied by juicy pulp.

The best use of such tomatoes is in salads, but they are also suitable for processing into sauces, pasta, and juice.

One large sweet tomato of the Kolovy variety is quite enough for one salad, but for preservation it is recommended to choose other tomatoes.

Tomato variety Kolovy: advantages and disadvantages

The Kolovy variety has been grown by more than one generation of gardeners, and without exaggeration we can say that everyone likes it.

Advantages:

• large fruits;
• excellent taste;
• disease resistance;
• long-term fruiting subject to the rules of agricultural technology;
• very high yield (up to 10 kg per bush).

The seeds of the variety are not sold in stores; they can usually be purchased from gardeners or amateur tomato collectors. Kolovy, in its essence, is a variety of folk selection that has spread quite widely across many regions of the country. On the plus side, we note that you can collect your own seeds from tomatoes.

At the same time, it should be noted that this is a variety of southern tomato that bears fruit well in the long summer season. In the middle zone, you can get a harvest from it only by cultivating it in greenhouses.

The Kolovy variety requires mandatory plant formation and pinching. Supports are needed, and not only the stems, but also each cluster with large fruits requires garters.

SEEDS:TOMATO

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The Kolovy tomato is an ancient salad variety of super-fleshy heart-shaped tomatoes.
Indeterminate, tall (up to 1.8 m), mid-season. For greenhouses and exhaust gas, it is better to form 1-2 stems. The fruits are large, 300-400 g or more, heart-shaped, pink. Kola is one of the most delicious varieties. The pulp of the fruit is practically seedless, juicy, very tasty. The variety is always in demand due to its stable high yields and amazing taste. The seeds are collected and packaged by hand. Packaging: zip-lock bag without printing.

Seeds: Tomato Colova

Seeds: Tomato Colova

Seeds: Tomato Colova

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Recommendations for cultivation

In Kuban, tomatoes are grown by sowing seeds directly into the beds. For those gardeners who want to get Kolovy tomatoes in central Russia or in other areas, they must first grow strong and healthy seedlings.

Seedlings: what to consider

The seeds need to be soaked in potassium permanganate (15-20 minutes, no more), then placed in a damp cloth for germination. Very often, collectors, sending tomato seeds, give useful recommendations on preparing tomatoes for sowing. So it’s worth listening to them and following the advice of experienced gardeners.

To stimulate germination and obtain strong seedlings, it is also recommended to soak the seeds in compositions with growth stimulants - Epin, Energen, or in an infusion of ordinary wood ash.

It is very important to prepare high-quality soil for tomatoes, using either purchased nutrient mixtures or preparing it yourself in advance.

Fertilizers are added to the soil: superphosphate (one teaspoon per bucket), wood ash. Be sure to add loosening agents to the soil: calcined river sand, vermiculite, so that the soil does not cake and is loose.

When growing seedlings at home, you must strictly maintain the temperature:

• during germination: +23ºC…+25ºC;
• the first days after the emergence of tomatoes: +18ºC;
• before planting seedlings: +21ºC…+23ºC.

The picking is carried out after Kolovoy has two true leaves. It is advisable to choose large pots for this variety, since the root system must be formed in spacious containers.

Water moderately, strictly monitoring soil moisture levels. Over-watering is very dangerous, as tomatoes may develop blackleg disease, and such seedlings will be unsuitable for further cultivation. If necessary, fertilize with complex fertilizers (nitrophoska is suitable) or special compounds for tomato seedlings.

Planting in greenhouses and further care

In the middle zone, you can start planting tomatoes in shelters after the May holidays. Air and soil temperature indicators are taken into account, and the recommendations of the Lunar calendar for a certain year are taken into account.

The place in the greenhouse must be prepared in advance: the soil is dug up, fertilizers are applied. If tomatoes are grown in this greenhouse every year, then in the fall it is necessary to disinfect the greenhouse itself and the soil in it. Experts also advise removing the top layer of soil and replacing it with a new one. It is effective to use green manure, which is sown in autumn or early spring, to improve soil health.

The planting scheme for the Kolovy variety is 3 bushes per square meter. You can add humus, a little ash or superphosphate to the holes. In order for tomatoes to adapt faster, they are covered with additional covering materials right in the greenhouse. This will protect them from bright sunlight for the first time, as well as from possible drops in temperature.

You can’t water planted tomatoes right away; they take a break of 5-6 days. But it will even be useful to mulch the soil around the plants with sawdust, hay or mown grass. Mulch will provide the necessary soil moisture and eliminate the rapid growth of weeds.

It is also advisable to equip the greenhouse with supports for trellises or stock up on stakes before planting seedlings. As soon as the plants grow, they need to be staked and then regularly tied as they grow.

One of the most important procedures when growing tomatoes is watering. Almost everyone knows that tomatoes love abundant but infrequent watering, but in practice not everyone follows this rule. To avoid problems, it is recommended to equip greenhouses with drip irrigation systems.

Water only with settled and warm water (+23ºC), and the water should not get on the leaves of the plants. At the beginning of the growing season, approximately 3-4 liters of water are poured under each bush, and at the beginning of flowering, the volumes are increased. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the condition of the plants themselves, the microclimate in the greenhouse, and weather conditions. On cloudy, cool days, watering is reduced, on hot days it is increased, but the norms are still observed.

In order for the tomato pulp to be sugary and juicy, the volume of water must be reduced at the height of fruiting. But the watering schedule must be observed, since prolonged “droughts”, as well as excess water, can lead to cracking of the Kolovoy fruits.

A powerful and tall variety needs adequate feeding. This is especially true for tomatoes, which are cultivated in the short summer conditions of the middle zone and require a lot of work to get a harvest.

The first feeding includes organic matter, using poultry droppings or mullein, previously diluted with water. Proportions: 1:20 and 1:10. Tomatoes also respond well to the addition of ash infusion.

ON A NOTE! Mixing ash and mullein is not recommended. It is better to first feed the tomatoes with diluted manure or droppings, and after about a week add ash.

The timing of the first fertilizing is no earlier than 18-20 days after planting the tomatoes. Subsequent applications of fertilizers are every 10 days. Tomatoes need nitrogen more at first; in the second half of the growing season, potassium and phosphorus are added.

If there is excess nitrogen in the soil, plants will actively grow green mass to the detriment of fruits. If such a phenomenon is observed, then it is necessary to reduce watering, spray the plants on the leaves with an extract of superphosphate, and also exclude nitrogen from fertilizing.

The following are used as “natural” fertilizers:

• yeast infusions;
• herbal infusions (nettle, comfrey, dandelion);
• banana peel infusions.

Many gardeners prefer to grow vegetables without chemicals, but in this case the tomatoes must be provided with complete and high-quality nutrition.

Good results are shown by the use of ready-made formulations designed specifically for plants of the nightshade family. Specialized stores offer entire lines of various products, including those with a natural composition of elements.

It is recommended to alternate root feeding with leaf treatment of plants (spraying). This way, tomatoes absorb the nutrition and substances they need much faster, instantly forming high-quality flower clusters and accelerating the ripening of fruits.

A special issue is the formation of tomatoes, without which it is impossible to obtain a high yield. It is preferable to grow the Kolovy variety in a greenhouse in one or two stems, so all other shoots are removed.

Stepchildren are broken out every 5-6 days, preventing them from outgrowing. If you decide to leave two stems, then it is best to take the stepson under the first flower cluster as an additional stem. All leaves that grow below this brush are also removed, gradually exposing the tomato stem. It must be remembered that at one time it is allowed to remove no more than two leaves from one plant.

Kolovoy’s clusters usually do not form; the fruits ripen together. To increase the yield from the bush, it is recommended to pick the fruits in a state of technical ripeness, without waiting for them to fully ripen. Those who have already grown this type of tomato note that tomatoes ripened on the bushes taste much more pleasant than those ripened at home. But in the climate of the middle zone, not every gardener can afford to leave tomatoes to ripen on the plants.

The shelf life of this tomato is average, it is advisable to immediately use the fruits in salads or put them into processing after harvesting (if the fruits are ripe) or after ripening.

Experience in growing tomatoes in greenhouses

When growing stake tomatoes, it is necessary to ensure vertical growth of the plant with the help of support. When the number of inflorescences is five or more per plant, it is wound on a cord tied to a guy wire. The cord is attached at a height of about 10 cm above the soil with a free loop to the base of the plant stem or about 20 cm of its length is buried in the soil when planting. The second end of the cord is thrown over a guy wire at a height of at least 2 m, preferably 2.5 m, and attached with a loose loop to the upward part of the cord so that the cord can be released during the growing season. As it grows in height, the cord is wrapped around the tomato stem after every second leaf. Only if the number of turns is insufficient is it possible for the entire plant to slide down the cord and break. For reasons of organization and labor economics, when the greenhouse width is more than 6 m, the rows must be placed across the length of the greenhouse. It is good if the ventilation is completely or predominantly done in the same direction to ensure good ventilation of the plants. If the main direction of ventilation is at right angles to the rows of plants, you should leave passages for ventilation by attaching the cords of two plants of the same row to a common guy wire at an upward angle.

If four or fewer inflorescences are left on each plant, then it is advisable to stick a wooden, steel or plastic stake at least 1.2 m long and 10 mm in diameter into each plant instead of cords and tie the plant to it 3-4 times. Sometimes they put four pegs in the form of a pyramid, fastening them on top with a plastic ring. This, despite the small diameter of the pegs, ensures the necessary stability, and, in addition, passages for air are created both in the transverse and longitudinal directions. A sufficient number of working passages with their relatively small width also has a positive effect. Recently, on an experimental basis, fiberglass rods have been used as supports, which, of course, have many advantages. If it is possible to adapt rings used by flower growers for chrysanthemums or something similar to these rods and thereby avoid tying up tomatoes, then perhaps such rods will be cost-effective.

An important care measure is breaking out the side shoots, or stepsons, formed in the axils of the leaves. It is necessary to avoid using a knife for this work, as this increases the risk of transmitting viruses. Side shoots are broken out to the side with your fingers. This work can be done without damaging the plants, only while the shoots are short. In addition, excessive growth of stepsons should not be allowed, as this reduces plant productivity.

Removing the stepsons too late easily leads to Botrytis infection in the damaged areas. Therefore, the stepsons should not be longer than 8-15 cm, and they must be removed every week.

Pruning activities also include shortening (pinching) the main shoot. Regardless of the number of inflorescences left, the shoot is always cut so that at least two or three leaves are left above the topmost inflorescence. To avoid plants slipping, they are tied at the top also when grown on cords. This is also done in cases where plants with more than 12 inflorescences are thrown over a wire stretcher and directed down again. In some plants, premature breakage of the main shoot is possible. In this case, it is replaced by a side shoot, which is directed upward. To do this, use a side shoot growing from the leaf axil directly below the inflorescence, because the growth energy of the side shoots between two inflorescences increases from bottom to top. The same technique is necessary when plants form apical flowers, which is observed in some plants after overwintering seedlings.

Pruning of the main shoot is abandoned when plants are grown with more than 12 inflorescences and directed from the guy wire back down. Sometimes the top of the plant is placed on an adjacent guy wire. You can achieve 20 inflorescences on each plant, and then the yields are 15-18 kg/m2.

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